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@@Trail0 I like doing it this way because I see quite often that the black foot disintegrates and falls off leaving you sucking air when you hit 1/4 tank. This mod allows you to kill 2 birds with one stone.

Realmente es bueno saber de ti. Una de mis primeras construcciones está en Puerto Rico. Utilizo una herramienta de escaneo "Genisys" más antigua. Pero cualquier herramienta de escaneo de calidad comercial hará lo mismo. Varios de los espectadores a los que ayudo utilizan "forescan". Lo mejor es tener uno que muestre datos en vivo.

@@boxjoint now that would be bad azz. As for the 7.3 I’m leaning towards the diesel. On the fence about lowering tho. I want her to be a tow rig and worried lowering may loose of her towing ability. But she is still in the planning phase and I appreciate the ideas kicking several ideas around.

@@KevinCorapi I’m assuming you are referring to the 90 degree fitting I used to tap into the back of the fuel bowl? That fitting threads into the bowl and transitions to a Schrader valve to attach to a pressure tester. I don’t know the thread type and size off hand but I ordered it off Amazon years ago by searching 7.3 fuel pressure tester or adaptor or something. Let me look in my kit and see if I still have the package. Maybe it has a part number. The package says TamerX.com TamerX diesel products 3830 Hemingway hwy Hemingway SC 29554 843-933-3050 Let me know what ya find out please. I may want to grab some more as well.

@@bedandbeat I believe she’s heading towards a 7.3. I’m looking forward to getting my ass kicked around with this one but that’s how cool is born. We will have plenty of videos on this ol gal coming soon. Let us know if you have any ideas we may want to use on her. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin

@bayoudiesel absolutely.. I was kidding about the 6.7 swap;)) clean trailer build pulling a pretty straight build... how clean is that cluster on that thing??! Can't upgrade it if you're not changing the switches, huh?)))

@@bedandbeat yep. I’m excited to see where this build leads. Really hoping to be able to use that 07 f450 we picked up. But we’ll see how things all shake out.

@@michaelmyers2091 I knew she was coming home with me the minute I saw the add. Gonna have plenty of videos on her so hope you enjoy and feel free to let us know what you are thinking or any suggestions you have. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching.

@@treeofliberty4407 really glad you got something out of the video. We like to help people keep their rigs running with a little info and some entertainment. Appreciate the comment and feel free to hit me up if you have a question I may be able to help with. Thanks for watchin.

@@kirkbenefiel8920 is yours loosing hpop oil in the reservoir?

@@CristhoferSahagun it would appear then that your pin 24 (common hot for right side) is grounding to pin 18 (shield wire). Probably causing a dead bank on the right side. Need to dig into the harness and connectors to find the short.

@@bayoudiesel Thank you very much! You are very helpful

@@Justmekpc agreed on changing that res oil unless you have a sludge issue. This one occasionally with give a funny start due to the check ball in the timing cover leaking the res oil down after she sits for a few days.

Hey bud. I had to consult the books to refresh my memory on a couple of these. Let me tell ya what the books say and then what I think. 1264- hi to low side short possible causes - shorted circuit, shorted injector, failed idm. 1316- idm code is usually bullshit meaning you have a wiring issue most of the time. 0381- glow plug indicator circuit malfunction. possible causes- open or grounded circuit, lamp open, failed pcm. 0270- cal 4 circuit low possible causes- harness shorted to ground. Now for my thoughts. Looks like a harness issue. Probably wiring but could be a connector as well. When you moved injectors and the problem stayed in hole 4 indicates issue with #4 wiring. Disconnect the 42 pin and flip it over to inspect wires for abrasion. You will need to open some loom. This is for both sides of the 42 pin. The side coming form the fender is known to rub underneath on the valve cover and the engine side in the hard elbow just ofter the plug. That should cover 1264 & 1316& 0270. 0381 is self explanatory in my book tn/bk is tan /black and goes from the idm plug to the control pin for injector #5. You have an uninsulated wire and a foil wrap for grounds. Testing them is in that procedure in the video. You can swap the uvc gaskets form left to right to see if problem follows it. If not you are chasing engine harness trouble. That can be replaced or repaired. Check that you are on straight ohms, like the setting with the beep. Some have a scale for ohms and will give ya different readings. Lastly keep in mind that when doing continuity (ohm) test you can get a good test with just a strand or two still connected but that won't carry the load of 120v dc going to the injectors. Hit me back and let me know what ya find out.

@@bayoudiesel so I checked for resistance again and got a high number and then another one and it seemed like the pin fit wasnt great for that wire on the connector at the 42pin and also at the idm, so i pulled the wires out of the connectors and now get a super low resistance, what could possibly be happening here ? Its giving me like half answers lol. Also I dont see anywhere the harness could have shorted to ground. I do believe what youre saying when you mentioned just because it ohms out good doesnt mean it can handle a the voltage when it is running, so im going to get some pins from ford and overlay that wire and see what happens Also I posted a video of the teal and black wire i was talking about its #15 on the engine harness side Also how is the 0381 self explanitory ? Doesnt that mean the light is out on the cluster for the glowplugs ? Idk i just did glowplugs, injectors, cups so maybe i left something off under the passenger side valve cover, but gawd damn do I sometimes regret my career choice, if the overlay doesnt work idk what will

@@TylerBigHead on the wire that you pulled that is giving mixed results, now that it’s out and isolated from other components try sending power through it by hooking one side to ground and then put a small light like a trailer light to it and hook to hot to see if the light comes on. That will tell you if it will carry a load. Seems to me that 0381 may be a bad light in the cluster. Use a test light to check that when the key is in “on” that both large posts on the glow plug relay are coming on. The relay should be on for a min or more every time the key is put into on. Is so the relay and plugs should be working fine but the indicator light or it’s circuit isn’t working correctly

@@bayoudiesel okay so finally got new pins for the overlay wire, still getting a p1264 when I buzz test, I guess now I have the pins I could overlay the engine harness side of the harness now but that voltage tests good. It still buzz tests good but getting the same high to low short code I am very confused at this point

@@TylerBigHead have you tried swapping uvch sides to see if the problem stays with the #4 hole. Quick test to determine if the uvch is the problem?

@@silvergrizzly316 big thanks bud. If you are interested you should check out the play list on that trailer. Triston has been a blessing for sure and a valuable team member. We have some cool projects coming up so keep an eye out.

@@bayoudiesel Wil dol bud! 👍

@@silvergrizzly316 thanks silvergrizz.

@@tristondaspit6618 you're welcome my friend! 👍👍

@@jeffkottwitz1170 appreciate the comment. We’ll keep um coming. Thanks for watchin

@@coolftp it should be 3 x 6k. Meaning the new axel was tagged 6k and I swapped out 6k springs on it for the mono spring it came with. As for the 2 axels that have been on there for years, they had no tags but are identical in size to the new one and 6k springs were used to replace the mono springs on them also.

Tristan is in full shade and full sports mode at the same time.... how do you keep up with his speed??!😊

@@bedandbeat I don’t even try. Lmao. He gets like the energizer bunny sometimes.

@@bayoudiesel Rockstar!!! 🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘👌👍👏🦾

@@flynn1727 as for the power distribution box under the hood there are a few fuses that won’t get power until it is switched on. Such as head lights, wipers, trailer tow package. They will test dead uncles turned in while testing. Now for the fuse box under the dash. My guess would be that you may have a corrosion issue causing a ground to some of the bars that are stacked in the bottom of the fuse box. Windshield leaks tend to get water right on the fuse box causing this and can create all kinds of issues. Hope that info helps. Hit me back if you have another question. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin.

@@davidano2554 appreciate the comment and we will keep um coming. Thanks for watching

@@jamesrogers2999 when I’m doing this test and fine results like yours I want to move in closer and do the test again but from the 42 pin plug over the valve cover. If same results the move into the uvch . The reason for that it to try to isolate exactly where the issue is. You could jump straight to the uvch to speed it up. Looking for changes in you readings which would mean you passed up the problem and need to back up. This will let ya know if you have a wiring issue or just and issue with the solenoid on the injector. You can add a buzz test and cylinder contribution test to this to confirm your findings if you have access to a scan tool.

@@bayoudiesel thanks for your reply

@@DeWaltManZ you are certainly welcome. And yep that old school jack comes in handy. Screens clogging and pick up foot falling off are common problems. Hit me up if any questions. Happy to try and help. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin

@@diybros7526 driver side is easier but the passenger side isn’t that bad. Use the rubber band trick to hold up the back bolts by the air box like the back bolts near the master cylinder on the other side. You could remove the side of the air box for clearance but ya have to be careful of damaging the coil

@@silvergrizzly316 you keep enjoying and we’ll keep um coming my friend. Always good to hear from ya.

@@RobertSybert sounds like you’re getting deep into this one. Let me hit ya with a few questions. Any codes? Are batteries fully charged? Is the oil level full? On stick and in hpop res? Are you getting a tach reading when cranking? Shown on gage or better yet a scan tool? Do ya have a scan tool that shows live data? And finally, when cranking are ya getting any white smoke? Hit me back and we can start there. Thanks for the question. Happy to see if we can help

yes it only have a battery light come on on the dash nothing else new batterys and starter new everything but no wait to start light

@@RobertSybertcheck your fuses sometimes one blows and won’t let your relay work

@@opaic777 we had fun. Don’t get to work on the OBS’s as much as we’d like. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin. We’ll keep um coming.

@@alyssonoliveira8308 sorry but we are in Louisiana.

@@sixyonex7385 it’s cool when ya run across an obvious smoking gun. But that one little tool sure tore up some stuff.

@@silvergrizzly316 I agree. He is a huge help over here and fun to work with. And as for the videos, we are just trying to have them make sense, be entertaining and educational when we can.

@@guymann4016 I feel ya on that one.

@@sixyonex7385 good info. I’m a 7.3 guy and know little on these 6.0’s. As you will see in next weeks video the truck had been loosing a lot of coolant. That being said, do you know if an overheat situation would cause it to shut off?

@@silvergrizzly316 glad you enjoyed it. The next one up gets into what we think caused part of the problem. You may find that one interesting. Good to hear for ya buddy. Enjoy your weekend

@@bayoudiesel yes sir, looking forward to it. 🇺🇸🗽

@@mikez8404 really enjoyed your comment. Helping / entertaining our viewers is why we do it. Glad you are enjoying them and we’ll keep them coming. Thanks for watching.

@@jerrykast7713 big thanks for the comment. We love to hear from you guys on what y’all want/need from a video. Also your comment helps us help others as well. Great to hear for ya and thanks for watchin. We’ll keep um coming.

@@John-n6g I’m happy to help any way I can. You first comment was about the pcm. Then we moved to the p1316 idm code. It’s always possible that any component can fail but in my experience the 1316 code is usually wiring / connector related. Before we get too far into the weeds can we back up a bit? Tell me what’s been going on with the truck and let’s make sure we are on the right path.

@@John-n6g the accelerator pedal (ie throttle position sensor) is a know part to fail on these trucks. They usually get a dead spot around the usual speed you drive or can sometimes just go out. I swapped one out and a year later had an issue only to find out I failed to plug it all the way in till it locked. And it took a year to have the plug rattle loose. Had to come home from 2 hours out on cruise control cause I had no pedal response. Got real fun timing traffic and lights.

@@JustinLaurent-ow5rd glad you enjoyed it. Although seeing which video it is I hope you aren’t to deep in the weeds with your project. Let me know if any questions come up. Appreciate the comment and thanks for watchin

@@justicebruno5249 no sir. The glow plug relay shouldn’t have anything to do with fuel bowl heater. Now the fuel bow heater is on the same fuse as the pcm so when the fuel bowl heater shorts out it usually pops the fuse which kills power to the pcm. You may want to start there.

@@bayoudiesel ok great. Thank you very much..

@@John-n6g not to say the idm can’t go bad but I find more often than not it’s a wiring issue. Keep in mind that this test is limited tho. Even a frayed wire with only a couple of strands still connected can pass an ohm test but not carry the 120 v dc that the idm puts out.

@@bayoudieselI don't have to have the batteries hooked up to get an accurate test do I

@@John-n6g no. When testing ohms the meter uses its own battery power. But it is always a good idea to have the batteries disconnected when doing these kind of test. Uncles you are tracking volts or amps. Then they need to stay hooked up. Side note. You’ll be looking for out of spec ohm readings or no reading when there should be. Feel free to hit me back if questions arise.

Thank you so much!!!

@@silvergrizzly316 appreciate it. This one had me scratching my head a bit. But we got her purring again. Good to hear from ya