ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มี.ค. 2024
- I recently upgraded a couple Mk3 Prusas with the new Mk3.5 kit with Input Shaper and I wanted to do a speed test so I threw in a couple other printers for comparison.
From left to right: Ender 3 V2, Prusa Mk3s+, Prusa Mk3S upgraded to Mk3.5, Prusa Mk3S+ upgraded to Mk3.5 and Bambu P1S. All the printers are in default condition and have no aftermarket upgrades.
I made a custom box from this Printables file, www.printables.com/model/7312..., and sliced it with all the same settings for each printer using the default profiles in Prusa Slicer for the Ender 3 and the Prusas and Bambu studio for the P1S.
My main goal for this test was to check how the 2 printers I just upgraded to Mk3.5 performed against the unmodified Prusa Mk3S+ and the Bambu P1S. I threw the Ender in for fun because it was just sitting in the corner collecting dust.
Results:
From slowest to fastest it was the Ender 3 V2 at 11hr 23min, the Prusa Mk3S+ at 8hr 11min, the 2 recently upgraded Prusa Mk3.5's at 4hr1min and the Bambu P1S at 3hr45min. The first print on the Bambu started to peel off the bed so it was stopped and restarted.
The Ender 3 had the best print quality but that’s not much of a surprise because slower speeds usually produce better results and the glue stick on the bed kept it from peeling up. More importantly, the print quality was essentially the same between the unmodified Mk3S+ and the newly upgraded Mk3.5s.
I've checked some other designs and didn't see the same 50% reduction in print time between the stock Mk3S+ and the Mk3.5's but so far it usually seems at least 25-30% faster.
For the price of the upgrade it seems worth the money to me if you already have a Mk3 printer but I wouldn't go buy a new one to just do the upgrade. You could just buy a new Bambu P1S or A1 for cheaper that have faster print speeds.
Mk3.5 upgrade: www.prusa3d.com/product/origi... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
The problem with the defects are related to the used sheets. PETG sticks well to the powder coded sheets, but PLA sticks better to the PEI sheets. If you have a large surface on the bed PEI could be the better option…
If your prints slightly peel up on the P1S and other printers, try increasing your bed temp a little bit. I print PLA on my PEI powder coated bed at 55c with no glue stick or anything on it, I just use rubbing alcohol and prints stick really well. Anything below the 55c, prints always start peeling up around the edges. I think i print PETG around 70-75C and they stick well around that temp.
I also find that printing a slow first layer helps the plastic fill in the little pockets in the pei texture for better adhesion where as faster first layer kind of bridges over those small pockets and can cause the curling around the edges.
I usually don't have issues with it but I hadn't cleaned the bed after a few prints and I usually print with the door closed even though Bambu says to take the top off or leave the door open when printing PLA. This was the first time I've ever had to stop a print because of peel up. I also have had good results with just cleaning with IPA.
@@doorpzYour prints are all warped which is why the walls look sloppy. I print on my X1C with the door closed and the lid on with PLA and never had an issue. I run the chamber fan on about 20% so the temps to get too high.
For pla plus on mk3s and mk3.5, I set the bed temp to 65c. When using textured pei, especially new sheets, it helps to lightly wet sand the sheet with 600-800 grit if you have adhesion issue with pla.
@@MrLaserpowered Yeah, you can probably get with a little more heat on open printers. The bambu enclosed printers you have to be careful because the filament gets soft in the extruder and can jam up. I did a lot of testing to find the max temp that does not cause this on my X1C.
In addition to increasing the bed temperature, I keep the print fan off for the first 1.0 mm to 1.5 mm of print then I ramp them up over the next 4 to 6 layers. (PETG). My bed temperature with PETG (Prusa) is 85 to 90.
Just ordered my kit a week ago, are the stock slicer settings decent? Or did you have to tweak them?
I've just been using the stock settings with some minor tweaks and they've worked fine so far but I haven't printed very much on them yet. One thing to note that I came across today is that there appears to be a bug in the mk3.5 firmware that causes the printer to skip the far left side of the bed when doing the bed leveling checks and is causing issues with the first layer calibration. Prusa knows about the issue and I'm sure they will release an updated firmware to solve it. Someone seems to have made their own firmware version that fixes the issue but you would void your warranty if you installed it. It may be worth waiting until there's a fix for the issue before updating as it will affect any full bed prints or anything you put on the far left side of the bed. You can read about the issue here, www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/nYD2SR4qdw
The prusament pla profiles fan settings is set to high. 1st layer goes down nice, but 2nd and so on look rough. Because of the speed increase, pla temps are increased to 230c. Prusa is aware the profile is garbage and said they are working on it.
@@doorpz New firmware has shipped (v5.5.2). Still waiting on my upgrade kit...