Upgrading the MK3 with genuine HIWIN linear rails: Worth it?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ย. 2019
- The MK3 is a really easy platform to upgrade - but does it need a 200€ HIWIN linear rail kit?
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Hello Thomas,
I build industrial automation as my daily job.
This automations have a lot of rails, and the right way to calibrate them is a bit different as you did.
Ill try to make an accurate step by step guide.
1- First you put the rails in and the blocks (as you did)
2- Tighten the rail with 2 blocks making sure it is square to the X axis
3- Tighten the blocks on the fixed rail.
4- Place the carriage to one limit, and tighten the othe rail, but just on this limit side.
5- Slide the carriage to the othe side and tighten this side of the rail.
6- Tighten the remainig block.
7- Now you have to loosen the blocks one by one and tighten them again. Ma ke sure to have only one block loose at the time.
8- Check for unwanted friction, if there is any start all over again.
Protips: Never use power tools for this applications, they can shift parts around (even blocks that weigh 1kg)
You don't have to be super gentle with this stuff, being industrial they are pretty hardcore (but don't drop them)
and for last, if you follow all my steps and you can't go away some little noise remember that the rails can bent some times. The only way to make them straight is to fix every hole on a machined plane.
Hope this was helpfull :D
willyminime good post 😁
Great advise!
For newbies like myself, there are TH-cam videos from bearing and motion-control companies that are demos of the described "proper" procedures for installing and aligning bearings. Thanks for the instructions!
Can confirm, this is similar to what we do at DMG MORI to our machines
@Thomas Sanladerer Pin this! This is very important!!!
"pulls out high precision rails"
"tightens with a power tool"
oh boy..
I seem to hear the clutch mechanism clicking, which is pretty decent on the Bosch drivers.
@@JeffDM I agree but my main concern is not over torquing. You lose a lot of feeling for how things are falling in place.
Tighten a bolt a little bit, check, align, tighten another one, adjust until everything falls in to place slowly and smoothly.
Thomas went for the AvE approach which might not be the best with precision machinery.
I've had the clutch on setting "3" almost the entire time - which I fund to be extremely consistent for mid/light tightening of M3.
@@MadeWithLayers But it is not, despite it being a torque limiter clutch, it still has enough mass to be equivalent to a mini impact wrench for a precision component that can throw off alignment. Would you like someone to build your 5axis CNC machine with an impact wrench?
Spent the whole video just wishing he grabed a plain old screwdriver! After I heard the price for these linear rails, it made me even more unease!
I was pretty sure that Josef Prusa said in an interview that they found that using other methods such as linear rails had no affect on print quality, so I guess it's good to know that he was correct
@Jazz Josef also said "we dont need 32 bit boards" :D
@@Arnipll Bill Gates said: "640K is more memory than anyone will ever need on a computer."
Oh boi, suck a spoiler there
@@RobNisters That has never actually been proven.
I think that the way the printer is designed to use the guides is very clever. As Tom noticed, the original design is just constrained, and well constrained. With rails, it becomes overconstrained. That is unlikely to improve precision, but is very likely to increase friction, which can lead to decreased precision.
Hi Tom, love your videos. When you're talking about difficult to see artifacts on the prints it would be immensely helpful to have some b-roll with something like a macro lense up close on the part so we can see too. In this video, I feel like I'm mostly just talking your word on all of the artifacting instead of seeing it myself. Still a good video though, looking forward to more.
the primary reason hiwin or other square profile linear guides are more rigid is because it can be mounted directly to a subframe and not just at each end (also things like preload but you probably want to avoid that in a printer). By mounting it only at each end it acts like a leaf spring when loaded in the middle of the guide.
I build machinery as part of my job. When we are using a pair of linear rails, we align and lock down one rail. The lock all bearings to the platen. This will align the rails to each other. Then we tighten down the other rail.
Using those Linear rails, in an industrial manufacturing plant setting, we used to very tightly rubber shockmount those carriages [Just a thin rubber gasket really]. In our cases, over 1 metre length rails, without the rubber mount the rails would bind, and resonances would be setup through the rigid chassis and moving tool head. With them the rails would more or less self align, and run extremely smoothly.
Nice to see upgrade videos still coming for MK3 with the mini coming soon !
Hi Thomas,
I study High Tech engineering, which is a continuation on Mechanical Engineering. Within this study, my specialization is Mechatronic system design. I'm currently doing my Master's thesis and am working on a properly constrained gantry system, which uses state of the art technology. I can not say much about it, since I intend to start a company with it, selling 3D printers and laser cutting machines.
Basically every machine on the market nowadays uses a heavily overconstraint set-up. Having 2 cylindrical bearings perfectly aligned (functioning as a single bearing, theoretically) and having another one to cancel the rotation, already overconstraints your system by 3 (1 free translation means 5 constraints, each set has 4 constraints, totalling 8 constraints. 8-5=3). Now, doing the same for hiwin linear rails, we get a sum of 5 overconstraints (5+5=10 constraints, thus 5 overconstraints).
What's the result of overconstraining? Not only does it introduce higher order harmonics, your system is no longer statically determined. Binding becomes more of an issue, which might not be noticeable at first or by hand, however at the microscale it's noticeable. Often relaxing a certain bearing helps, since you reduce the amount of overconstraints and thus the harmonics.
One thing that confused me in this video is... Why do you wiggle the bed back and forth sideways, while the direction of actuation is through the centre of mass of the bed in the same direction as the bearings slide... The vibrations from the x-axis shouldn't cause much vibrations on the bed, since the frame is very stiff and its amplitude is very much degraded.
There's one side question I have. Once I finish my product, I intend to start-up and kickstart it. What conventions do you usually go to in Europe?
Keep up the good work!
Pro tip:
Use a guitar tuner (or app) on the belt before and after to make sure you get the same tension.
Also, use silk PLA or shiny PLA to make ringing artefacts more visible. Black PLA printed hot also shows artefacts more.
1:12 If it's hard to show on camera just take a picture.
Yep, macro cameras work well. I still have a Konica Minolta dImage Z5 that I use for macro work down to 2mm - it's perfect for examining individual pixels of LCD screens. The Ipevo V4K USB document camera is surprisingly good, too, though I haven't explored it completely yet.
Seriously. Replace the camera man on camera two with a still camera, and the video would become much more informative.
@@darrinbrunner6429 i think there is only some one on b cam
I really like your channel you have a great way of explaining things and give honest evaluations on products.
As a physics major, I'm reminded of the damped harmonic oscillator (mass on a spring with friction) and the classic analysis about over-damped, critically-damped, and under-damped conditions. After increasing stiffness, maybe you can also, somehow, increase dampening and/or modify the mass of the system?
It would be interesting to analyze a Prusa i3 with something like a vibration sensor, and then do a "proper" analysis of the ringing and then optimization to reduce it.
Maybe a wider belt for the y-axis would increase dampening?
perhaps giving enough 'slack' in the tension of the Y belt might help some what? I like the widening idea.
Stefan has got you covered! th-cam.com/video/Ws1JfHl3Y0o/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Tom! Will definitely go watch Stefan's video.
@@evlsc400 Changing the tension of the belt will only change the frequency of the belt oscillation. If you want to dampen its resonance, you need to add some spring made of a different material. For example a belt tensioner with a metal spring. Maybe not one on the belt, but as a holder of the belt wheel. Still this only reduces any resonance frequency, but it will not remove belt vibration completely.
Gijs Noorlander so a spring loaded belt tensioner? If those exist I’ll test them this weekend.
Hey Tom, thanks for this tryout! I'm now glad with my original bearings and the little space they have. So my Mk3s is fine as it is :).
Schönes Video und Grüße aus Süddeutschland!
I have a DYI Prusa with several modifications. It has considerable amunts of play in the y and x axis, but always in directions perpendicular to the axis movement. So far, I am happy with the amount of ringing in the prints, nothing out of the ordinary.
I noticed on my Prusa i3Mk3S was producing Z axis banding as yours also does. I also noticed the extruder was sometimes pulling hard enough on the filament to slightly deflect the print head. This was with the stock Prusa filament holder.
My fix was a completely new filament reel and axle running on sealed bearings that puts nearly zero stress on the print head while feeding filament. This change made a noticeable improvement in the layer artifacts. My latest prints are about 50mm tall and are very close to perfect exhibiting almost no layer issues. And yes high quality filament is a must... great video as always Thomas.
Great review, thanks for your work, & your honest thoughts
Hi Tom, one of the thing we saw in the early days of DIY 3D printing was similar artifacting. Ours was caused by really tight belts. The 2mm teeth were giving us that slight imperfection. We wanted tight belts for precision. We gave our belts 1/2 a twist so they had the smooth side rolling against the pulley/bearing. That simple fix made our prints super smooth.
Very interesting, I actually thought of that too. Don't they skip occasionally tho?
Liking your honest review - no manufacturer favoritism here - and I agree with your findings - makes total sense 👍
Love these techy videos. And thanks for being so honest!
We see this on our clients that buy Raise3D units, particularly engineering clients, that have an instinct to tighten every bolt. This is a mistake on the Z axis where the threaded bearings are intentionally loose to deter Z axis artifacts. They get binding as soon as it's over tightened so agreed the first one looks better for similar reasons!
8:00 i think the y-carriage plate is symmetrical so you can have 2 bearing right or left, you can just turn/flip the plate.
A bit upsetting that the rails are not sitting on the aluminium profiles but instead sitting on wobbly plastic pieces.
They specifically point out the orientation you should be using in the guide.
Thanks for the info... I have been waiting for a linear rail version of the Prusa printer for a long time. I think it may have been beneficial to print a simple test cube. That way you can see how much effect you are having on the Y axis.
Cheers,
Greg
For this application linear rails from your favorite chinese store for around 15 Euros for a 500mm rail are just as fine. Most of the time they are perfectly usable out of the box. Should they not run perfectly smooth just tear down the block and wash it and the bearing balls in solvent to clean out the dirt from manufacturing. I have been happily running banggood rails on my corexy for a long time.
Is there a specific vendor you would recommend?
The ones I got have play in the block ;-;
I got the best improvements when I upgraded the Z axis bearings to PTFE bushes
I would love to hear more about that !
Where could we get those? I did a search but couldnt find that. Also would that work for mk3s?
@@Gefionius IGUS bushings, I printed my own to the tolerances of my printer in TPU.
Excellent Review! Good to have such honest reviews.
About a minute into the video and WOW that production quality! The close ups look fantastic! Good Job Tom!
thank you for this review thomas
how is the noise level of the hiwin compared to stock on travel speeds > 100ms/s ?
tia
The best way to fix the inconsistent extrusion problem (which i assume is the cause of your issues based on your description) I’d suggest getting the bondtech upgrade for the mk3, which uses the original bmg geared style extruder. A lot of users had this issue, and fixed it with this upgrade.
I love this, I learned a lot. I wish you would still show us the more technical side of 3D printing and not so much of the here's where I can go and here's what I can do side of it all. I am not trying to bring your channel down, I have learned a lot but I love the old stuff and wish you would do more in that aspect.
For a while I was having all sorts of similar Z banding issues. But if I ran my finger along it I couldn't feel any sort of banding. The issue ended up being that the eSUN grey I was using (that I buy in 3kg rolls) had a large amount of pigment variation. So it wasn't actually a layer or printer issue at all. Changing to a different vendor's filament made it disappear all together.
If you trace the history of the short-lived E3D BigBox project, you find the banding issue there as well. It seems that their primarily used stepper controllers caused some of it by introducing rounding errors in some zones. You always have to look at the whole system.
@Jim Bob I think it was just the bulk rolls - printing out some vase mode models made it visible and obvious when you looked at it. I'd not had that issue with any other eSun filaments, and I've been through probably 50kgs of it.
Back in July when I did upgrade my Prusa MK3 to linear rails, it cost me under $40 bucks not 200 Euros. Print quality stayed great but the lower noise level of the heat bed was well worth doing it. Also you can gain up to 15mm or Y travel if you want it and more Z if you want it but that will stop the Self tests from working so I kept my travel the same.
I've been trying to understand the inconsistency issue(s) of the Mk3 for months now, read countless forum posts and asked the 602 community in discord (which I can recommend btw).
First of all I installed a reverse bowden as suggested in the video too, and it really helped a lot. Mind, that you don't need to minimize slop here, so a 3mm inner diameter/4mm outer diameter PTFE tube works wonderfully!
Everything else probably comes down to the extruder itself. Many people reported significant improvement after installing a geared extruder like the Bondtech upgrade. Although a bit pricey it also reduces weight and extruder motor temperature, which on top of that can't be transferred to the actual gears and with that the filament anymore, so it won't soften. Prusa actually uses this method in their Pursa Mini printers now, which I find somewhat ridiculous...
Another thing of course is heat creap which causes the filament to stick slightly on its way to the nozzle and therefore causes layer inconsistencies. Swapping the silent but weak noctua fan for one with higher static pressure like models by Sunon seemed to help a lot by keeping the cold end, well... colder. So these are the most important upgrades I'm planning to install next.
Hope that helps some people =)
Those Z axis artifacts you're talking about may be related to the bed's temperature control. The bed expands and contracts while is trying to keep the temperature constant, thus changing the top surface height. You should check your BED PID values although it may not improve your results.
Nice review and test! I think the artifacts you're seeing are from the extruder. Either the Bondtech gears being tight or an issue we're facing with microstepping. I've been fighting the same on my MK3S.
I’m really glad I watched this - I just put my order in this morning and was trying to find any upgrades I could install while building up the printer. As someone who works with industrial CNC machinery, it’s hard to look at 3D printed parts supporting the main axis, but clearly that’s not a bottleneck in performance!
Have you played around with any of the complicated analysis tools that use a print head accelerometer to tune motion on the fly to negate ringing and ghosting?
I printed PETG bearing blocks for my bed and it's near rock solid, maybe 0.2mm wobble up and down under force. And prints look better than before.
great video boss. learned a lot as always. i think i might add this in: resonance/vibration is a frequency based phenomena. i find you need to dampen low frequency wobles, and also dampen high frequency wobbles. i think the looser holdey guys reduced the high frequency wobbles, but compromise accuracy. my 2 cents would be to find a way to dampen the high frequency vibrations in the stiffer holdey-guys. cos ultimately you want more precision and you get that from a no-move bed. i think the losey-holdey guys inaccurately solved the high-frequency wobbles problem. it would be cool to accurately reduce those high frequency wobbles.
Add some cork feet or a thick rubber mat under the printer to reduce resonance 'ringing' on the prints. you can also add them between the stepper motors and the stepper mounts to reduce it as well.
I floors me that time and effort was taken to reduce 'wobble' in the wrong place.
No matter how rigid the frame, rails, table, floor, building, Earth, there is a weak link right under to the model!
Springs.
They are a safety device to prevent damage, until you have learned enough to prevent nozzle-strikes!
Put the leveling knobs where the springs lived.
Install lock-nuts where the leveling knobs came from.
Mechanical Leveling becomes a truly 'one-time' event.
Level opposite corners with the knobs, then lock them down with the lock-nuts.
Never adjust one knob by itself!
Once you have 'A' and 'C' locked down, 'B' and 'D' are next.
Never ever ever ever ever ever 'level' just one corner, you are warping the plate!
Three points define a plane, and there are four points attached.
What happens to the shape of that plane if only ONE point is moved?
Warping.
And we don't like warping.
Doesn't matter if it makes that corner 'right', it is inducing mechanical stress for the other three corners.
Adjust opposite corners as a pair!
One goes up, one goes down, until they are both 'perfect'.
Only then can the other two be adjusted in the same way.
Anycubic MEGA X, Mingda Rock 3 Pro.
No springs, no adjustment to bed in 100's of hours of printing.
Take the printer apart, put it back together...don't even have to check leveling!
It just works.
Robert is you parents sibling.
Moving belt mounting point 3mm higher also makes Y movement just slightly less uniform
Great video, thanks Tom!
With regards to the loss of height that 3mm is actually within the design tolerances of th MK3. You could combine this upgrade with an upgrade to the MK3S which would get you the height back. Another way to gain height back is to use the full volume volcano modification with which when fitted with the standard ED3 heaterblock with out the standard height adjusters would gain you 8.6mm.
7:12 They likely had the thought, but ultimately decided against it to keep the price a bit lower. Those rails are pricey.
Some recent releases from Chinese market participants might match a better price/quality balance. You simply don't need the HiWin precision when other parts of your gear don't meet the same precision level. Still have to see a 3D printer with a cast mineral concrete bed... :)
13:57 "while this last print is going..." ehm... Tom we can see the finished third print in front of you :D
That's because it's a timelaspe recording put in a picture in picture placed in after just to show you it printing. Does not mean it was not the actual print :D
@@brianwild4640 But the print wasn't going when he said it was. That was the dry humour Pouya was going for. Do you always come in when someone makes a joke and tell everyone "well technically...."?
Krytern yes I do
From my experience, the belt tension is the biggest contributor to Y axis problems on MK3. Cranking it up helps constrain the bed more than fiddling with the rails.
What I'm thinking about doing, at some point in the future, is to swap the X axis rods for a rail. The print head is rather heavy and the entire assembly is plastic and thin rods, so there might be some play in there.
Yes. From years of experience with home-brew plotters , engravers, cnc and a 3D printer , keeping the belt resonance under control is vital (I built a wire drive plotter once , it rang like a guitar string , wild resonance!) adding a couple of idler wheels (or even long slides) on the long return run can help . Too much tension is as bad as too little - it really a case of observing and making adjustment s to kill any bad resonance.
I'd love to see you test/review custom extruders for the MK3S, for example the 'skelestruder' and the like.
Some of that ringing could be related to the mount arrangements for the Y axis belt drive system. Both ends are at the center of a flexible beam. There is no solid support below the belt from the back to the front of the printer. I had the vibration on my Anet A8 which has similar but plastic construction. I mounted a threaded rod below the belt tied in at the front middle and back. No more vibration on in the print.
That the liniar guider are not the best upgrade for the printer. The issue, I think, is the belt teansmision, a ballscrew will offer better results. But the upgrade is a really hard one. Love to see you do it.
Also when mounting linial giudes, there a master 1 and a slace 1. You put the master and then check with a gouge that the other raile is paralel. I have done this on machine tools.
Why can't I see the horizontal print lines? Is it the camera?
A great video, I like the end result that spending a lot of money may not make much or any difference, but , many of us enjoy the hunt
I have the MK2s (not even done the 2.5s upgrade yet, but that bed is tempting) but the first (and only) upgrade I did was to swap those u bolts for a printed block (see thingiverse) so it did not pinch the bearings and I could tighten them up securely.
Nice Videos Tom, tightening the belts introduces artifacts for sure, I achieved a belt status of about 270 +5 across the X and Y and had artifacts , loosened the Y to 291 and the artifacts got canceled out
Hi, Ibrahim. Where do these numbers come from?
🔴"ahh, it's not perfect. . . ." 🤔 I feel you there 😂.
I expect the difference to be highlighted by larger prints where the mass creates more kinetic issues. Perhaps loading the linear rail with a 1lb weight while printing smaller test parts like you did would be more illustrative of the linear rail performance.
Hey Tom,
First thanks for your videos. They are much help! Could it be that the issue of ringing is more pronounced because the lack of slop in the bed?
Could you point me to a video about the calibration of a Anet A8 axis?
Interesting video. I wonder if the results would have been different or more clear if the test model were more challenging - those planters are cute but look pretty easy to print.
"There is no room for inaccuracy" looks like you have loose hiwinas so there is still room for inaccuracy.
Hiwin carriages are divided into several types in this respect, one has a clearance (smaller balls), the other type does not have this clearance but requires more powerful motors.
Look on the box ZO, ZA, ZB is this parameter.
Good video Thomas, I think the main reason of the linear rail not just the print quality, but less noisy than stock one, I hate the of the prusa mk3 when it's print with speed it't not quiet anymore, and start see some Grove on the rods, so it's worth upgrade imp 😁
The mk2.5 upgrade kit come with a drill bit and a holder so you can drill out the holes for the zip ties so you can use u bolts.
I installed linear rails (Not the kit) and I can see an improvement on the Y axis artifacts, some ringing on the print has improved. I compared the same prints before and after the change, you can visually see the improvement and also can feel it, with the linear rails the print is smoother. Also the play on the printing bed disappeared now is totally rigid.
Good video!!
You will want a cnc plate with those linear rails. The rail system Prusa uses is already stiff enough IMO.
I think you need to make X and Y stiffer and some adjustments to the printer profile. What you will get more consistency between prints. You didn't show that in this video.
Hello Tom, Great video!!
Where did you get the wrench from?
Looks like one I got with an RC car kit in the ‘80s
Great, high-quality video tutorial + review. Love it! Also, the ad-sponsor + print time lapse was really slick. Well done all around!
I really liked, that you pointed out the minor (tiny) print quality deficiencies of the prusa prints! Somewhat of topic, but do other printers, in that price range, have a better print quality, some with a rigid core xy concept?
I think the Z-banding is mostly from the Z axis.
I have an Anycubic i3 Mega and I printed a pair of flexible Z-couplings from thingiverse and eliminated most of the Z banding. The author explained that the Z leadscrews are not completely concentric with the steppers and will cause Z-axis to wobble when the leadscrews turn. The Z-axis smooth rods and bearings are not exactly rigid, either plus there is no load on them as on the X and Y axis so it's easier for them to move by the lead screws.
Would it be a good idea to use the hiwin rails only on one side to not "overconstrain" the system ?
The false artifacts or ghosting would be due to play in the x-y plane. Nice start upgrading the x-axis but i'd think you'd need to upgrade y-axis as well in order to eliminate artifacts completely. Plus, the prints on the OG bed seemed great already
You should start by acknowledging that the stock Prusa extruder and Noctua fan provide insufficient cooling for the v6 heatsink, and swap out that fan for a more powerful one, ie one that has a better static pressure rating. Prusa has also published newer revisions of the extruder which you should definitely upgrade too, or even look into other extruder designs provided by the community, if you dare try them. This has been recognized by many people as one of the main cause for the layer misalignment artifacts that you mention at the beginning (but were not inclined to acknowledge when the MK3 first came out)
I also think it would have given one less argument against this experiment if the exact same model had been used in the test prints. I understand the feature difference is minimal, but people will always get you on the fine detail, and in the spirit of scientific process I think this has value.
Maybe now the frame needs to be more rigid as well because the forces from Y go directly into the frame without wobble? Would be interesting to see if the print quality does improve with a bear frame and linear rails.
it satisfied me so hard that you are using the bosch professional line ....
I would test a better spool holder. The resistance of the spool has negative impact and x gantry wobble. I have found that on a direct drive it is noticeable and you touched on it.
Great content as always Thomas, think you will ever run out of ideas? I really like your videos where you design functional prints like the garden hose roller, or refuse bin handle, or car part
My video "todo" list has almost 500 video ideas - so no, I'll probably never run out of videos to make!
Hi Thomas, a bit off topic but have you tried the ultra 316 stainless filament from BASF? You mentioned filament development in the meltzone podcast, just wondered if you had tried this ...I’d be interested to see how it got on and whether it is possible to debind and sinter at home?
My heart is breaking with all that power drill tightening
M3 screws, through a 3D printed plastic adapter and the rails are supported only on the ends, so...it doesn't matter anyway :D
Hello Thomas,
Do you think using a "thread locking product/glue " may help in these circumstances. As they are often used in high vibration machinesry to prevent loosening. Apologies if this has been asked before.
This was interesting. I would be very interested to see what ball scews on the z axis would do. I would think that it would create more consistent layer height therefore smoother sides.
Thanks for the video! I was considering this upgrade until I watched your review. Even though the Y-axis does not provide any benefit with linear rails, would it be advisable to consider the Z/X-axis? Maybe to ease the z-wobble, obviously, more work would be required to re-design the printed parts.
If u install clean and adjust properly and grease the blocks the improvement would be way better he didn't align the rail properly for one and two they need to be greased with a synthetic grease such as super lube they will out perform and other motion system i installed hwin mg linear rails on my x axis and y axis on my cr10s and I have gotten way better prints than with the stock setup
Tom - the benchmark of honest reviews. Thanks for doing what you're doing.
@Bubz of Steel That's a valid point. However, from my own experience I can say that sometimes it's difficult to take a camera picture of a print irregularity. Especially with light-colored filaments.
I'd say you don't need to take his word - you can test it yourself and see if you are going to get the same results.
So far, from my experience, when I've tested Tom's recommendations I had success.
So for me, he is a benchmark. Feel free to put your trust into any other person.
Despite there being no apparent quality benefits I’ll be doing this upgrade soon in the hope that it will get it back to somewhat quiet operation. The Y bearings on my MK3 have become increasingly loud in the last couple of months (after only ~150 h of printing) to the point where I’m afraid of keeping the neighbors up.
I'm curious about linear rails for this same reason, and also have insanely loud Y bearings after only a couple of months
Ah yes, the tool to fasten RC Car wheels at 3:23 . I also use mine as default hex nut fastener for small ones. :D
Hey Tom, upgrade that i3 to E3D's wider belts/pulleys to see if you can get rid of some of the ghosting. Would be a good review to see if they're worth purchasing.
Nice video! Now I wanna know how it does at higher speeds and/or increased weight
in my opinion, mounting the rails like this(not supported/screwed in along the entire length of the rail) takes away one of the major advantages of linear rails in comparison to smooth rods and linear bearings. now the rail itself can flex/rotate
Would I put shaping improve ringing?
I like that it has 2 linear rails, however, I don't like that the rails are "floating" and only connected to the ends. The linear rail kit for the Ender3 from 3dFused has only one rail on the Y axis, however, it's bolted down along the whole rail. I do love the rails on the Ender3, and I'm sure they would be great on the Prusa as well.
It is the filament wind probably most are not perfect and make the head pull harder some times and softer other times. I think the multimaterial add on helps with that cause it is pulled 2 times not 1.
The plastic roll needs to be in an actual bearing containing hub to prevent the jerking as it feeds down. It must be pulled which results in microscopic jumps as it unloads material
Now the question is: Are you leaving them on, or switching back to the original rod setup?
Why would he switch back?
@@emmettmartin2639 Because he said he preferred them before it was changed? So wouldn't it make sense he might consider switching them back? Come on this isn't rocket science.
Ringing has nothing to do with the linear rails, but the linear rails expose the weakness and compromise with most 3D printer designs. There are a couple things that will affect the resonant frequency of a machine - its rigidity, and the inertia ratio (the ratio of the inertia of the load and inertia of the motor.) As to rigidity, probably the polar opposite of a Prusa frame would be an epoxy-granite frame with linear rails and ballscrews, or ACME or trapezoidal leadscrews and anti-backlash nuts. I also believe the belts can act as shock absorbers of sorts, but they only mask some of the underlying problems with designs like these. As to inertia ratio, having a too high inertia ratio can also lower the resonant frequency of the machine. One way of lowering the inertia ratio is by gearing down, which lowers the inertia of the load by the square of the reduction ratio. The only problem with that potentially is that the motor speed has to be increased by the gear ratio to reach the same speed. The big problem with direct-drive belt designs is that the pinion acts as a gear increaser, since one turn of the stepper will move the load the diameter of the pinion times pi. As just as the inertia of the load decreases with gear reduction, it increases with a gear multiplier. The other way of lowering the inertia ratio is to use a stepper with a higher inertia - a larger stepper. Changing to a less aggressive acceleration/deceleration setting can help as well.
Hi Thomas ,
if I want to modify the original Prusa i3 mk3 printer and change my
heated bed for a bigger size bed or extend z axis , does the printer
recognise the extension in the axis and would auto bed levelling works
You do you upload this when I'm still at work? I'm dying to see the results but I have to wait until after work. Your killing me ;-) You also seem to be the first one to do this professionally and in good video quality. Too bad you didn't upgrade the X-Axis as well. Thumbs up even if I haven't watched yet.
It would be interesting what you think of the Conrad Renkforce RF2000v2. We have one in the office and I have also one at home. Meanwhile the printer costs 1500€, just 500€ more than the Prusa. But for the 500€ you get linear rails, ballscrews, bedleveling with DMS-sensors, 2 hotends for dual-print and a sturdy housing.
I maintain and run two MK3s for work. I do about 100 hours a week on each printer. I’ve had more issues with the LMU8s. I might have gotten a bad batch, I went with upgrades from Misumi and have had good results. This kit would have been worth it for me just to get rid of the variables that the cheap 8 mm bearings introduced.
One Y-axis rail along with one factory round bar might work better. Getting the bed exactly level would require some custom parts.
The maker gear printers use just one good sized rail in Y and nothing else.
So now I am content with my MK3S in almost stock condition.
How about adding rubber mounts b/w bearing and build plate. Maybe that can damper the slight vibrations
lol exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
Did you find out what caused the artifacts? Mine are kind of serious... With a seriously overtightened bed though...
Since the bed is over-constrained and causes ringing in the system do you think adding rubber spacers underneath the u-bolt nuts would help to alleviate 1. some of the excess ringing, and 2. the wear of the textured surface over time? Of course you would have to use the same torque value over each nut to ensure consistent tightening.
I would be curious so see the results. These would be similar to rubber motor mounts to reduce vibration in the entire system. Thoughts?
I need to make this upgrade
@thomas: What is the length of the linear rails? We have some lying around with 300mm and wondering if I could use them as the block won't reach to the end of th rails ...