Just a word on expansion and contraction. I measured a Trex scalloped board at 80 degrees and after a cold front when it had laid out all night below 40. Exactly the same length.
Nice video. You need cortex plugs at the stair edge. I don't understand the "bulge" you're talking about on the joist which required you to move the screws to the left & right or else the spacing would be off? Can you explain that.
I used Camo when I did my deck and it worked great. I predrilled the holes before I installed the screws. It will work for both grooved boards and flat sided decking. I used flat sided decking. I spaced my composite decking at a full 1/2 inch spacing. The spacing is a little too wide for some of of my deck chairs. I like the wider gap because the snow tends to melt quicker so I don’t need to shovel off the deck as often. The composite boards I used suggested a 3/8 inch gap due to expansion of the boards during the summer.
Nice job. But highly recommended to use the hidden screw set that come with decking. It's look nice but if someone who look closely enough they can see the drilled holes on each edges of composite woods. Thanks for sharing.
@@SumDumGy this guy didn't put butyl tape over the joist to protect them from rotting, and he should have. The clips are the same color as the tape so nothing grabs your eyes. I've been doing decks professionally for over 12 years now and I loved the camo when it first came out but the clips are the evolution of deck fasteners ! And the Trex system is the best hands down !!!
@@teeks8951 I didn’t apply tape either. I considered it but since I used pressure treated lumber and applied additional coats of preservative, I doubted the tape would adhere. I gapped my boards at 5/16” because my deck rests just above the ground. I wanted to give it breathability. Clips, and the groove, would have been too visible for my liking so I went with the Camo and so far, I’m very happy with the result. I’m using my leftovers to build a matching sett of steps.
@@teeks8951 how have you found the issue of exp/contr. With say, Azek pvc vs. a Trex composite? If pvc, do the clips provide enough hold to minimize the expansion and contraction (I know you need to “allow” it to move to a certain degree). But I hate the gaps that open up in cooler months.
Good video I know it took a lot of time to use that camo tool but it was well worth it. When using the camo tool I used 2-3/8" screws so it got a deeper bite into the studs, and I used the 1-7/8" camo deck screws for screwing it on the top face of the composite decking board.
Gus, thanks! What I appreciated was seeing another option for installing composite decking instead of using the costly hidden clips and screws. I see Trek has both grooved and square composite boards (as do other manufactures of composite decking), so the Camo system would work great on the square edge boards. I imagine it wouldn’t work to well on the grooved sided boards. I also liked your tip using a large clap to push warped boards together! Great idea. Regarding cost and effort a 250 sq. ft. deck you’d use about 750 screws with the Camo system, where with a hidden system that catches both side of the boards you’d use only about 350 clips, with screws. So guess that balances out the cost and you’d only be drilling half the holes, so 1/2 the work. Your deck looks great!
The instructions for the Camo tool do state it works with both square and grooved edge deck boards. I had the same concern and I can only find grooved boards locally.
@@SumDumGy you just need a slightly diffebit for the drill for the grooves that allows the screw to go in a bit further so the head isn’t just sitting in the groove. I’m a little concerned with the long term holding with the grooved boards because there less of the meat of the board being held.
Spacing composite planks raises a new issue if you live around pine trees. Both pine needles and pine pollen casings deluge our deck and love to get stuck in the spaces between planks, especially those created by "hidden fasteners." Unless you power wash your deck every few days for the entire spring season, you have to pick out the needles by hand ... and good luck with dislodging the pollen casings. My deck "renovation" is almost done. After the first contractor disappeared (when he found out he was in way over his head) and I fired the second (seemed incapable of following directions), it seemed if shoddy work was the best I could get, I may as well do it myself. Unfortunately, the dozens of websites and more dozens of TH-cams I watched didn't mention that there are more than one width of "hidden fastener." Trex doesn't tell you that. Now, as for the Campo Marksman ... no way to adjust the plank spacing for pine needles. Maybe great for some, but a waste for others. Just the same, thanks for the video.
Are you (or did you) making the boards closer together to deal w the pine needles? Drainage is the biggest reason for the gaps between boards as far as I know.
You're missing butyl water proofing tape on top the joists. They'll start to rot out in well before composite decking, especially if you're using non ground contact treated boards. For a little more money, you can have a longer lasting deck.
11/28/2020 OK, I just finished using this device. Very pleased with the result. I installed Fiberon Composite decking. The 3 things I ran into, but were no major problem were: 1. When I started to drill in the screws, this Fiberon decking must be really hard. The screw started to walk a little until it caught so I started off center a little each time. 2. Since this Fiberon decking must be really hard (not the notched edges, they were solid) a few times I had to put a lot of pressure on the screw for it to drill down. 3. Every once in a while, when a screw was drilled down on the side of the board adjacent to the prior board, the CAMO device got stuck, and I couldn't pull it up and out. It took some prying and in one case made a small nick on the surface. But again, all in all ,very pleased with ease of use & the result.
is the cutting/hole looks good after clean? I am thinking of use this solution but the cutting on the edge do not look nice. another problem is water may trap there.
I always use an end cut to bump the piece into the clip, hammering trex can easily make it ugly... really easy to install, just hard to get to where you're installing, and I had to use my knee pads, shit got way hot.
Camo’s instructions give a very similar process for attaching abutted boards against a structure as you did securing your steps, screwing into the face like that.
Id be afraid that after a few years the little bit of material being held by the angled screw would "break off" and the board would pop up. I think id rather use the t clips since thyre probably much faster to install and dont penetrate the trex board
Not a fan of the camo system. Trex sells grooved boards and solid . I like the universal hidden fasteners for grooved and cortex screws with matching plugs on the solid band boards or areas where the universal ones don’t work. Thanks for the demonstration.
I would, too, if hidden faster we clips were made in a variety of gal widths. My deck will be ground contact so I want better breathability for water evaporation after rains, therefore I’m going with a 3/8” spacing instead of 3/16.” Hidden fasteners can’t do that.
Yes but it will damage the board in 1 of two ways. 1 if you try to unscrew the board you'll have blow out as the screws have a reverse thread. 2 you'll make the holes bigger because you would have to drill the screws totally into the frame.
Hi. When building the frame for our trex deck we miscalculated the fastener sizes (we used a traditional screw to gauge gap size and the fasteners have a smaller screw). Now that we are installing the deck our calculations have left us 2 inches short (up against a wall and door). Rather than "ripping" a 20ft board and having a 1 or 2 inch piece against the house as the last piece, it was suggested adding a 16th of an inch space to each fastener. ( at 30 boards this would close our 2inch gap). My question, is this safe to do? We have the grooved edge transcend tropicals boards and as it stands we've only laid down 4 boards. We really shoved them close together before fastening (with the invisible fasteners) so we didn't leave much room for contraction. We live in sf near the beach..lots of fog, only 30 days a year of super hot weather, hardly ever below 40 or 50 degrees. His suggestion adds a tad more wiggle room, I just dont want loose or buckling boards.
No doubt you’ve resolved this by now but I’m sure you noticed hidden fastener clips don’t allow you to adjust your spacing between boards any. Their are made for specific gaps. That’s why I won’t use them.
I checked local Home Depot, the solid board has groove under it. Is this true ? They have board with side groove and non groove. But non groove one is not totally filled all around.
Gus were the boards grooved or solid? I’m about to redo my own deck and I’m trying to figure out if I should use this tool or the hidden fastener system that comes with the TIMBERTECH composite decking.
@@gusdoesthis9273 thanks Gus-I was told earlier today by the sales rep at my lumber yard that using the Camo system will VOID the TimberTech warranty.They said using anything other than their hidden fastener system or their face screwing system is not recommended so I will have no choice but to use what they offer.
@@johnm5714 Yes I build decks for a living, don't use Camo with Trex, use Trex hidden fastener clips with grooved boards. Fastener clips can come collated and called "turbo clips" on Amazon. Install joist tape to joists so framing lasts as long as decking, small cost can go a long way. On the end boards you can use composite screws and Cortex color matching plugs from FastenMaster. They have a hidden fastener system for fascia boards as well. Cheers
@@Danwingheinz thank you sir-deck was done last July using the hidden fastener system and the core-Tex screws and plugs. In retrospect-I will NEVER use composite decking ever again. I hate it...Many reasons for it and I won’t bore you with those-I would use Mahogany if I ever need to build myself another deck going forward...just would
Clip system would be much better. Half the fasteners, plus you're not compromising the plastic cladding by drilling through it. Even worse with trex is that their boards don't wrap through the grooves down to the bottom edge corners of the board. This means water will sit in those grooves and over time could soak into the wood/plastic composite filler, especially if putting screws through the uncoated grooves. Another plus with the clip system is the boards can expand and contact lengthwise without bowing. Composite does expand and contact a lot.
The website for Azek pvc boards suggests cortex screws and plugs or the color matched. I realize this is different than what you were addressing w the composite/ moisture issue. But I’m concerned with the Azek and the amount it’ll contract/exp at butjoints, miters etc. Any thoughts on that?
Super helpful video. I used these same camo screws for our deck and later found out that using the camo screws will void the warranty on our Trex boards 🤦♂️
No, it’s not. The front of the box clearly states it’s meant for wood, PVC and composite decking. It even looks like composite being used in the picture on the box.
@ Feedthe5000, While I agree, I can’t find wood deck boards locally. I never even heard of them until I read something online. Went looking to see what was available...nothing.
I recommend a board bender. Home Depot sells an excellent Stanley 26" board bender for about $40. It is IMPOSSIBLE to lay Trex (or any board) without this tool.
I don't think its necessary to humer te screw when it's all the way in it won't look okay that's my experience .but the job looks great and the vid. Is helpful. Thanks
He used hangers on all joists except the joist sitting on the concrete deck block. He might have fastened that one differently to the ledger but it doesn't need a hanger.
The problem I see with trex boards is that they only wrap the plastic shell to the top of the grooves. The grooves are exposed wood/plastic composite material which does absorb moisture over time. The two big box home improvement stores in my area only stock trex and deckoraters. Trex had the color my wife and I both liked, deckoraters had an ugly solid looking color that looked really fake. We were going to do trex until I realized trex didn't fully wrap the sides to include the space in the grooves. I told my wife we weren't spending that kind of money on deck boards with such a crappy design. I'd do regular lumber at a fraction of the cost and deal with wood for the next 10 to 15 years and revisit composite then. Thankfully, I found a builder's supply company in my area that carried timbertech, which completely wraps the board for slightly more cost, at least the prime+ series. Only downside with that series board is two colors to choose from, a brown and a grey, but they look nice.
I priced the difference with Trex enhance and timber tec. Its 3 times the price here. Solid board and solid colors are extremely hot and hold the heat. You can still use the cheaper trex enhance with no maintenance compared to wood and still hold off for 15 to 20 or more years to replace. GL
This looks *horribly* labor intensive and very slow. I am currently using the trex connectors. Each joist is taking me less than 10 seconds. Position, screw till tight, loosen, tighten the screw above. Rinse and repeat…..
Just remember to check with the local distributor or with the brand of Composite you are installing. Most companies, using the Camo Decking Screws will negate any warranty.
I doubt it's untreated, likely it's the "severe weather" rated treatment, that's rated for non ground contact use. He should have used butyl tape on top of the joists though to prevent rot from trapped moisture.
For anyone watching this, do not use the camo device the way Gus did.. The camo tool is for cedar/pressure treated wood decking. The Trex spacers are designed for the expansion and contraction of the boards. You screw the boards down every 12/16", the board can't expand and contract and will eventually warp. Wow
I have seen several decks installed with Camo edge screws with no issues. Most recent was my daughters deck in Colorado with serious daily temperature changes and relatively low to mid humidity levels.
You can install composite decking how ever you like but make no mistake, if you don't follow the manufacturer's install recommendations; such as using the Trex spacer clips, you will completely void your warranty. Bottom line is, if you screw the boards down and they can't shrink and swell, there will be problems. This of course is just my opinion. I'm a contractor and would never risk having a client call me back 5 years later for a warped deck. Homeowners/DIY'ers, cost plays a big part so do what you have to.
@@raylaino2067 This is the two on center recommendations for Trex for joists. 12" for commercial (heavy traffic) and 16" OC for residential. I prefer 12" but so does she and we both got what we got.
Grandma always said "You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear". Of course, Grandma was drunk most of the time, but even then she knew horse shit from honey !!
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THANK YOU! the “close up” at the end was genius!
Beautiful deck, thanks for the demonstration I will now use this product vs others I have seen.
Enjoy the summer and your new deck.
"boogers." 😆 Thanks for the tips. I'm getting ready to install some of this same decking, using the Camo tool/screws.
Hi Gus greetings from Lockdown NSW Aust We are finally getting our new pool deck done with this material (we call it Ekodeck) finally next week.
Just a word on expansion and contraction. I measured a Trex scalloped board at 80 degrees and after a cold front when it had laid out all night below 40. Exactly the same length.
Nice video. You need cortex plugs at the stair edge. I don't understand the "bulge" you're talking about on the joist which required you to move the screws to the left & right or else the spacing would be off? Can you explain that.
I used Camo when I did my deck and it worked great. I predrilled the holes before I installed the screws. It will work for both grooved boards and flat sided decking. I used flat sided decking. I spaced my composite decking at a full 1/2 inch spacing. The spacing is a little too wide for some of of my deck chairs. I like the wider gap because the snow tends to melt quicker so I don’t need to shovel off the deck as often. The composite boards I used suggested a 3/8 inch gap due to expansion of the boards during the summer.
Man, that tip at 7:05 is key. Thanks brother!
Trex sells a countersink bit and plugs that match the deck boards that provide a professional finish to any exposed screw. FYI
What length screw are you using?
Nice job. But highly recommended to use the hidden screw set that come with decking. It's look nice but if someone who look closely enough they can see the drilled holes on each edges of composite woods.
Thanks for sharing.
Just as you can see the clips and screws on the “hidden” deck clips. Six of one, half dozen of the other.
@@SumDumGy this guy didn't put butyl tape over the joist to protect them from rotting, and he should have. The clips are the same color as the tape so nothing grabs your eyes.
I've been doing decks professionally for over 12 years now and I loved the camo when it first came out but the clips are the evolution of deck fasteners !
And the Trex system is the best hands down !!!
@@teeks8951 I didn’t apply tape either. I considered it but since I used pressure treated lumber and applied additional coats of preservative, I doubted the tape would adhere.
I gapped my boards at 5/16” because my deck rests just above the ground. I wanted to give it breathability. Clips, and the groove, would have been too visible for my liking so I went with the Camo and so far, I’m very happy with the result.
I’m using my leftovers to build a matching sett of steps.
@@teeks8951 how have you found the issue of exp/contr. With say, Azek pvc vs. a Trex composite? If pvc, do the clips provide enough hold to minimize the expansion and contraction (I know you need to “allow” it to move to a certain degree). But I hate the gaps that open up in cooler months.
Good video I know it took a lot of time to use that camo tool but it was well worth it. When using the camo tool I used 2-3/8" screws so it got a deeper bite into the studs, and I used the 1-7/8" camo deck screws for screwing it on the top face of the composite decking board.
Gus, thanks! What I appreciated was seeing another option for installing composite decking instead of using the costly hidden clips and screws. I see Trek has both grooved and square composite boards (as do other manufactures of composite decking), so the Camo system would work great on the square edge boards. I imagine it wouldn’t work to well on the grooved sided boards. I also liked your tip using a large clap to push warped boards together! Great idea. Regarding cost and effort a 250 sq. ft. deck you’d use about 750 screws with the Camo system, where with a hidden system that catches both side of the boards you’d use only about 350 clips, with screws. So guess that balances out the cost and you’d only be drilling half the holes, so 1/2 the work. Your deck looks great!
The instructions for the Camo tool do state it works with both square and grooved edge deck boards. I had the same concern and I can only find grooved boards locally.
@@SumDumGy you just need a slightly diffebit for the drill for the grooves that allows the screw to go in a bit further so the head isn’t just sitting in the groove. I’m a little concerned with the long term holding with the grooved boards because there less of the meat of the board being held.
@@victoryak86 Thats why I would never use these on grooved boards.
@@SumDumGy agreed.
Spacing composite planks raises a new issue if you live around pine trees. Both pine needles and pine pollen casings deluge our deck and love to get stuck in the spaces between planks, especially those created by "hidden fasteners." Unless you power wash your deck every few days for the entire spring season, you have to pick out the needles by hand ... and good luck with dislodging the pollen casings.
My deck "renovation" is almost done. After the first contractor disappeared (when he found out he was in way over his head) and I fired the second (seemed incapable of following directions), it seemed if shoddy work was the best I could get, I may as well do it myself. Unfortunately, the dozens of websites and more dozens of TH-cams I watched didn't mention that there are more than one width of "hidden fastener." Trex doesn't tell you that.
Now, as for the Campo Marksman ... no way to adjust the plank spacing for pine needles. Maybe great for some, but a waste for others. Just the same, thanks for the video.
Are you (or did you) making the boards closer together to deal w the pine needles? Drainage is the biggest reason for the gaps between boards as far as I know.
Would screws not prevent the board from expansion and shrinkage of the boards?
Joists are for the floor system, rafters are for the roof system...NOT "whatever."
Hello Gus, I like the way you did reverse clamping. What clamps you used for that ? Thanks.
Why are you using untreated joist?
You're missing butyl water proofing tape on top the joists. They'll start to rot out in well before composite decking, especially if you're using non ground contact treated boards.
For a little more money, you can have a longer lasting deck.
Did he use the Camo coated or the stainless screws?
How does it work when you get up to the house? The angle doesn’t seem like it’ll allow the gun to fit, so are they top fastened?
11/28/2020 OK, I just finished using this device. Very pleased with the result. I installed Fiberon Composite decking.
The 3 things I ran into, but were no major problem were:
1. When I started to drill in the screws, this Fiberon decking must be really hard. The screw started to walk a little until it caught
so I started off center a little each time.
2. Since this Fiberon decking must be really hard (not the notched edges, they were solid) a few times I had to put a lot of pressure
on the screw for it to drill down.
3. Every once in a while, when a screw was drilled down on the side of the board adjacent to the prior board,
the CAMO device got stuck, and I couldn't pull it up and out.
It took some prying and in one case made a small nick on the surface.
But again, all in all ,very pleased with ease of use & the result.
I had similar issues and slowly adjusted my technic and it got better
I think there is missing protection (butyl joist tape) on the top of the joist before installing the boards.
I found that when using it on trex composite I had to clear the composite cuttings from the screw passage of the tool after each nail set was done.
is the cutting/hole looks good after clean? I am thinking of use this solution but the cutting on the edge do not look nice. another problem is water may trap there.
Installing this way, does it void the trex warranty?
I always use an end cut to bump the piece into the clip, hammering trex can easily make it ugly... really easy to install, just hard to get to where you're installing, and I had to use my knee pads, shit got way hot.
Why not use the Trex hidden fasteners?
What is the joist spacing distance with the 2 x 6 frame ? 16” or 24” on center ?
Why didn’t you frame with pressure treated lumber
Camo’s instructions give a very similar process for attaching abutted boards against a structure as you did securing your steps, screwing into the face like that.
I’d recommend using the actual Trex fasteners. Since you aren’t, your deck isn’t under warranty.
A carpenter once told me those break over time. Guess I'll find out eventually.
Id be afraid that after a few years the little bit of material being held by the angled screw would "break off" and the board would pop up. I think id rather use the t clips since thyre probably much faster to install and dont penetrate the trex board
Not a fan of the camo system. Trex sells grooved boards and solid . I like the universal hidden fasteners for grooved and cortex screws with matching plugs on the solid band boards or areas where the universal ones don’t work. Thanks for the demonstration.
I would, too, if hidden faster we clips were made in a variety of gal widths. My deck will be ground contact so I want better breathability for water evaporation after rains, therefore I’m going with a 3/8” spacing instead of 3/16.” Hidden fasteners can’t do that.
LOVE our new deck!!! 😘😘😘😘😘😘😘
Hi can I ask with this method can I take a board out in the centre without removing the rest of the decking
I would think so.
Yes but it will damage the board in 1 of two ways.
1 if you try to unscrew the board you'll have blow out as the screws have a reverse thread.
2 you'll make the holes bigger because you would have to drill the screws totally into the frame.
Thanks for sharing the great info 👍
Thanks! Got the camo tool. This was helpful
Hi. When building the frame for our trex deck we miscalculated the fastener sizes (we used a traditional screw to gauge gap size and the fasteners have a smaller screw). Now that we are installing the deck our calculations have left us 2 inches short (up against a wall and door). Rather than "ripping" a 20ft board and having a 1 or 2 inch piece against the house as the last piece, it was suggested adding a 16th of an inch space to each fastener. ( at 30 boards this would close our 2inch gap). My question, is this safe to do? We have the grooved edge transcend tropicals boards and as it stands we've only laid down 4 boards. We really shoved them close together before fastening (with the invisible fasteners) so we didn't leave much room for contraction. We live in sf near the beach..lots of fog, only 30 days a year of super hot weather, hardly ever below 40 or 50 degrees. His suggestion adds a tad more wiggle room, I just dont want loose or buckling boards.
No doubt you’ve resolved this by now but I’m sure you noticed hidden fastener clips don’t allow you to adjust your spacing between boards any. Their are made for specific gaps. That’s why I won’t use them.
Hello Gus, Is your trex board is non-groved on side. As Camo is not recommended for board having grooves. Please confirm.
These are solid boards, not the grooved ones.
Thanks
I checked local Home Depot, the solid board has groove under it. Is this true ? They have board with side groove and non groove. But non groove one is not totally filled all around.
@@gusdoesthis9273 Any reason that you selected solid one ? I want to know your thinking behind it.
@@SNahar They are solid on the sides where the screws go in, more grip and contact for the screws to hold to the base
Gus were the boards grooved or solid? I’m about to redo my own deck and I’m trying to figure out if I should use this tool or the hidden fastener system that comes with the TIMBERTECH composite decking.
I specifically ordered boards without the grooves to get a better bite with the camo tool
@@gusdoesthis9273 thanks Gus-I was told earlier today by the sales rep at my lumber yard that using the Camo system will VOID the TimberTech warranty.They said using anything other than their hidden fastener system or their face screwing system is not recommended so I will have no choice but to use what they offer.
@@johnm5714 Yes I build decks for a living, don't use Camo with Trex, use Trex hidden fastener clips with grooved boards. Fastener clips can come collated and called "turbo clips" on Amazon. Install joist tape to joists so framing lasts as long as decking, small cost can go a long way. On the end boards you can use composite screws and Cortex color matching plugs from FastenMaster. They have a hidden fastener system for fascia boards as well. Cheers
@@Danwingheinz thank you sir-deck was done last July using the hidden fastener system and the core-Tex screws and plugs.
In retrospect-I will NEVER use composite decking ever again. I hate it...Many reasons for it and I won’t bore you with those-I would use Mahogany if I ever need to build myself another deck going forward...just would
fantastic tips Gus! How about after hitting the mushroomed stuff back over the screw hole you use a heat gun for a few seconds?
I don't think it's necessary, after 4 months they all still look good
Clip system would be much better. Half the fasteners, plus you're not compromising the plastic cladding by drilling through it. Even worse with trex is that their boards don't wrap through the grooves down to the bottom edge corners of the board. This means water will sit in those grooves and over time could soak into the wood/plastic composite filler, especially if putting screws through the uncoated grooves.
Another plus with the clip system is the boards can expand and contact lengthwise without bowing. Composite does expand and contact a lot.
The website for Azek pvc boards suggests cortex screws and plugs or the color matched. I realize this is different than what you were addressing w the composite/ moisture issue. But I’m concerned with the Azek and the amount it’ll contract/exp at butjoints, miters etc. Any thoughts on that?
Super helpful video. I used these same camo screws for our deck and later found out that using the camo screws will void the warranty on our Trex boards 🤦♂️
What size screws?
this tool is meant to be for wood decking. use the trex board with groove and camo clips...looks a lot nicer.
I love the look of wood also, but this will last 5 times longer with zero maintenance.
No, it’s not. The front of the box clearly states it’s meant for wood, PVC and composite decking. It even looks like composite being used in the picture on the box.
@ Feedthe5000, While I agree, I can’t find wood deck boards locally. I never even heard of them until I read something online. Went looking to see what was available...nothing.
Clips are far superior...no studs with bulges needed to install.
I recommend a board bender. Home Depot sells an excellent Stanley 26" board bender for about $40. It is IMPOSSIBLE to lay Trex (or any board) without this tool.
If this was true no one would have a Trex deck.
@@moonpiespotlight4759 I built one myself. I'm pretty sure I know what I'm talking about.
Do you put screws in every joist?
Yes and joists where 16" OC
I don't think its necessary to humer te screw when it's all the way in it won't look okay that's my experience .but the job looks great and the vid. Is helpful. Thanks
It isn't, but it definitely hides the screw better.
After 2 months, they all still look great, glad i did it
He did it hammer the screw after it was in. He hammered the mushroomed deck material around the screw.
Was it just me not seeing, or did Gus not use any joist hangers! Otherwise, looks good. Handy, time saving tool too.
He used hangers on all joists except the joist sitting on the concrete deck block. He might have fastened that one differently to the ledger but it doesn't need a hanger.
The problem I see with trex boards is that they only wrap the plastic shell to the top of the grooves. The grooves are exposed wood/plastic composite material which does absorb moisture over time.
The two big box home improvement stores in my area only stock trex and deckoraters. Trex had the color my wife and I both liked, deckoraters had an ugly solid looking color that looked really fake. We were going to do trex until I realized trex didn't fully wrap the sides to include the space in the grooves. I told my wife we weren't spending that kind of money on deck boards with such a crappy design. I'd do regular lumber at a fraction of the cost and deal with wood for the next 10 to 15 years and revisit composite then.
Thankfully, I found a builder's supply company in my area that carried timbertech, which completely wraps the board for slightly more cost, at least the prime+ series. Only downside with that series board is two colors to choose from, a brown and a grey, but they look nice.
Hey Chris, Chris here👍. What fasteners did u use and how did you like em? Also does the timber tech expand,contract a lot?
I priced the difference with Trex enhance and timber tec. Its 3 times the price here. Solid board and solid colors are extremely hot and hold the heat. You can still use the cheaper trex enhance with no maintenance compared to wood and still hold off for 15 to 20 or more years to replace. GL
We are using the same material. What size screws did you use?
1 3/4" Camo screws
Very helpful, thank you 👍
Glad it was helpful!
This looks *horribly* labor intensive and very slow. I am currently using the trex connectors. Each joist is taking me less than 10 seconds. Position, screw till tight, loosen, tighten the screw above. Rinse and repeat…..
This guy kinda reminds me of Turkish Olympic shooter Yusuf Dikec.
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Why not just use the fasteners that are required by trex
Many reasons, price, look on outside edges, ease of use, gap size. I did my research and you should too.
Just remember to check with the local distributor or with the brand of Composite you are installing. Most companies, using the Camo Decking Screws will negate any warranty.
@Rocket Man Clips sold by the decking company
Always make sure the manufacturer approves. If not and you have issues, warranty voided.
before you Close It Up....don't use a nail.....
pre-drill a small hole and it won't mushroom up on you
Why the hell is he using Untreated lumber?
Maybe it's cedar? Not sure
I thought the same lol. "Wait.... is he using....? No... can't be"
I doubt it's untreated, likely it's the "severe weather" rated treatment, that's rated for non ground contact use.
He should have used butyl tape on top of the joists though to prevent rot from trapped moisture.
using camo screws on Trex voids the warranty. For exposed screws use Captor brand composite screws to avoid mushrooming.
For anyone watching this, do not use the camo device the way Gus did.. The camo tool is for cedar/pressure treated wood decking. The Trex spacers are designed for the expansion and contraction of the boards. You screw the boards down every 12/16", the board can't expand and contract and will eventually warp. Wow
So Camo lies on its box about what it’s intended for?
I have seen several decks installed with Camo edge screws with no issues. Most recent was my daughters deck in Colorado with serious daily temperature changes and relatively low to mid humidity levels.
12/16”???
You can install composite decking how ever you like but make no mistake, if you don't follow the manufacturer's install recommendations; such as using the Trex spacer clips, you will completely void your warranty. Bottom line is, if you screw the boards down and they can't shrink and swell, there will be problems. This of course is just my opinion. I'm a contractor and would never risk having a client call me back 5 years later for a warped deck. Homeowners/DIY'ers, cost plays a big part so do what you have to.
@@raylaino2067 This is the two on center recommendations for Trex for joists. 12" for commercial (heavy traffic) and 16" OC for residential. I prefer 12" but so does she and we both got what we got.
Why bother screwing the face leaving ugly screws??? Use construction caulking to the joists....it's as strong as nails!
Grandma always said "You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear". Of course, Grandma was drunk most of the time, but even then she knew horse shit from honey !!
I hate to rain on your parade but using the Camo fasteners, may have just voided your Trex 25 year warranty.
Clipless over camo any day.
We use at clips so much easier
I can see those holes.it looks very amateurish. You should not be drilling through composite decking.
Camo is not an approved fastener by Trex
Wayyyy tooo much work.
Junk