Fabulous series Ryan..was able to troubleshoot and resolve several issues. Clear, concise and easy to understand videos. Perfect for newbies or self-proclaimed handy-persons....thanks a bunch!!
Thank you for your reply. Your video was done in 2019 so I am surprised you reply now in 2022. I tried to look for the reed switch but could not find it. I will try to keep looking for it. Once again, thank you.
This helped me alot by identifying that the fans voltage is 12V DC. Checking the voltage with the fan plugged in can be misleading. Mine showed no voltage this way, indicating that the PCB may have been bad, but after taking the fan out and putting 12 volts to it, it would not run! The fan was definitely bad. The PCB stops sending voltage to the fan after it repeatedly gets no response from the fan which can make you think the PCB is bad when it is not. It's a good idea to bench test the fan.
Watch the video again. He said the voltage to the fans was 8 or 11 VDC. Also you can check the fan motor by checking the continuity between the red and black wires on the fan itself. Continuity good fan motor. open bad motor. He said white wire sends fan speed info back to the PCB.
Yes, but I was getting no voltage while the fan was plugged in to the fridge & the fridge compressor was running, magnets on the reed switches. The PCB had already cut off power to the fan. So I tested the freezer's evap fan with a battery & it worked, the refrigerator evap fan didn't.
Do you have a video for the triple cooling Samsung 4 door flex refrigerator? Bottom freezers are fine but top fridge does not cool. No external signs of frost.
Thank you very much for the magnet trick.I looked forever trying to find out how to shut the light off while the door was open so that I could check my Evaporator fan To see that it was turning. Luckily, I didn't need a voltmeter because I didn't have one. 😊
Great video! I have a different model Samsung RS25H5111, but the circuitry seems the same. My problem is a little bit different. The fan turns freely and there is no ice around it. However, sometimes the fan works either at full speed and sometimes it doesn't work at all even on Power cool. It doesn't matter what temperature the refrigerator is at. Everything seems okay, including the power freeze on the freezer side, but is inconsistent on the refrig side. I ran the full self diagnostic check and there are no error codes picked up. Wiring between the evaporator fan socket to the mother board shows good continuity. The refrigerator can go for a day or more without the fan working and then all of a sudden it starts to work. Would this be a mother board problem or some other sensor causing the mother board not to supply the voltage to the fan?
Same here. Not certain about the continuity though. The voltage seems to fluctuate and the slightest movement in the wires either turns the fan off or on again. Would love to know if either of you found something out.
Thanks for the video. I replaced the main control board and now the system cycles on but fails to provide proper voltage to fan (multimeter reading 1.6v DC) which is not blocked but not spinning either. This causes a system restart. Any suggestions?
Dear Parts Dr, your video was helpful to see if the fan went on with the lights off. Can you tell me for the samsung RF197ACPN with the french door and freezer door on the bottom, where to turn off the light on the bottom drawer. I used the two magnets on the top doors and it works. But I cannot find anything on the manuals about the light sensor switch on the bottom drawer. Your help would be appreciated.
Look for a reed switch on the freezer wall. It should look like one of these two: partsdr.com/part/da34-00043j-switch partsdr.com/part/da34-00043c-switch
My fridge has a freezer fan that controls the bottom and the top(RF27T5501SG) fan works but it’s not cooling the top the damper works as well now I’m not sure what it will be do you think the fan it’s not working fast enough?
Hi. Tks for the video. May I know if the fridge can go down 5 degree celcius when empty, BUT when I start to put in two drawer of fruit, the temperature can only go to 11 degree. And if I put the other shelves of food, the lowest temperature it can go is 14 degree.... May I know what could be the likely problem pls?
Hi Ryan, my evaporator fan is stuck at the cycle that you mentioned at 2:46. My condenser is not frozen up and freezer works correctly. Fridge wont go below 18C before of this fan issue. I have replaced the fan but same thing happened. Should I replace my main control board?
Hi Jerry. It's up to you what you would like to replace on the refrigerator. Since replacing the fan motor did not fix the problem, the next thing to replace would be the main control board to fix this type of problem.
I have fan issue, tested voltage like in video and I only get 7v fan does the start stop 5 times then nothing. tested at pcb outlet and 7v there too so assume I need a new PCB? visual inspection of board everything looks perfect. What would you suggest I do next before I burn it?
My refrigerator makes 5 attempts to start the fan motor and then disables it. I measured the voltage on the fan (while it was making start attempts) it was correct 11.3V, I even got a replacement fan which behaves the same way. Looks like the control board can't get a feedback from the fan that it's spinning...Bad control board?
Hi, I have a Samsung RSG257AAWP. My freezer side is not cold enough. The temperature on the panel shows -2 F, but the temperature taken inside is 39. I want to test the fan, but there are no arrows anywhere on the frame around the freezer door to attach the magnets. How do I trick it to think the door is closed to turn on the fan?
@@PartsDr that's a good idea, but the magnets sticks along all three sides of the door except the left side where the hinges are. I removed the fan, connected to a 9v battery and it turned on. So the fan is good. I just need to check if there's power coming out to the fan.
I found the solution from a youtube video. I need to put a magnet on top of the plastic cover of the hinges. My fan turned on when the light turned off.
Great tips. Can you help me figure out my issue please? Freezer cold, main fridge not- running about 50F (this same unit in this video- Samsung RF24xxx). The voltage to fan is perfect. With magnets on, I observed that the main fridge fan is "running." Could it be running too slow- anyway to check that (fan speed?) The defrost temp. Sensor checked out fine- the ohm values perfectly match those on the Samsung chart. I tested at room temp., 70F and ~33F (ice water.) The coils in the back were just cleaned and no interior vents are blocked. At this point, should I change the fan and cover assembly just in case the fan is old and running slow? The fridge is 7 years old. The evaporator in the main fridge has been consistently icing but I manually defrosted it, completely cleared the drain / tubes and I think it's better now but it haven't been too long to know for sure. In FD mode (Forced Defrost), I put ice near the sensor, I read a temp of the heater element to ~300F near the bottom yet the top of the coil was relatively cool 70F's. The coil is however completely clear of ice and draining fine, yet inside the fridge is about 50F. WHAT CAN I TRY NEXT TO SOLVE THIS ISSUE PLEASE?
You said, "The defrost temp. Sensor checked out fine- the ohm values perfectly match those on the Samsung chart. I tested at room temp., 70F and ~33F (ice water.)" Where did you find this info ( Samsung charts of sensor resistance readings ) Thnx
I have the same issue. When is the fan supposed to be running in high and when in low? Is there a way to check if it's not running in high speed, as it does in fact run fine and all cleaned out as you did...but I'm not sure if it's running in high speed, were you able to solve this? thanks
@@stevemaier5979 I'm not a 100% sure. Typically the speed will be controlled by the motherboard. If the fan is working in low than the fan itself is working. Beyond that I suppose you could check with a meter a meter or simpler way might be to Put a little recording device inside the refrigerator and listen to here the RP m's increase or decrease.It will only kick onto higher RP m's as needed though.If everything else is working it's probably OK
what should be the resistor of freezer and refrigerator fan respectively? is 97.5 K and 12 K ok for the freezer and refrigerator fans? they do have sound of working when the system is plugged in.
We don't usually find a resistance test to be an accurate way to test these fan motors. Even if they test good in the resistance test, the motor can still be bad.
@@PartsDr Thanks for the reply. I have a Samsung inverter refrigerator (freezer top). It works fine until around 7 hours and then stops working. If I unplug and plug it right away, it wont turn on. After some hours, it will turn on. It has high temperature fluctuation. If I set the freezer to -21C, it will even cool down to -32C. The Samsung official service came and said my evaporator is having a small hole. I didnt accept. Then 3 more technicians came. One said the defrost system is problematic and changed the sensors without measuring the resistors. Then another one came and said the invertor motor should be replaced. Then another one came, took the inverter board and returned and then he said, it is hard to find the cause, buy a new Ref! Since then, I am trying the repair it without experience. I just am an electronic engineer and understand something from the board; however, I do not even have the board map! What do you think?
I have a Samsung 4 door flex refrigerator the refrigerator part will not get below 57 degrees but the freezer part works fine I'm assuming the freezer and the refrigerator has two separate evaporator fans is that correct!
My fan functions at the onset but stops running after around 24 hours from when the fridge was plugged. If the control board disables fan for ten minutes, I suppose there won't be any power when tested. Will there always be power in the main control board? I'm trying to figure out if the board or fan that needs replacing (maybe it runs low after 24 hours so the board switches off the power, is that possible?).
Just to add, the fan didn't have power when being tested. The board also had fluctuating power during testing. However when the fridge was unplugged and replugged because the front panel needed to be reset, the fan started working again. Then it stopped again the following day and the system wasn't cooling.
Hi, I sure hope you can help. I had a c 22 error, ( pretty sure that means the control board is fine if it detects errors?) I replaced my fan ( it was frozen up, rusted) and now it moves. The error is gone! but the fan never comes on? I know I connected it right, and it free to move. I got an AC 7 volts on white, but no DC. red to ground I get 1 volt DC. So confused.
@@ramjet358 no ditched it. I fixed it a few years ago with a new fan but this last time no luck. Tried a new board and sensor. No luck so got rid of it.
@@greensseanpam5616ok thanks for your quick reply. I guess I’ll give it a go. Other than this one, did you ever come across a video or instructions involving a triple cooling unit?
So does the proper dc voltage for the evaporator fan vary from Samsung fridge to Samsung fridge or is this the universal voltage reading we should look for?
I have a Samsung fridge rf28hfedtsr/aa 06 it's been giving me problems for a while ice maker froze up coil same thing cleared the codes Thawed it out now it want get no colder than 57 degrees what should i do?
any thoughts as to why my rs265tdrs/xaa leaks water on the floor at the front of the fridge side, about once a day? the water seems to come from under the fridge, not from inside of it. the evaporator tray underneath seems to fill evenly but the water isn't evaporating fast enough. it used to leak water from inside the freezer, which would also freeze in the bottom of the freezer, but it did that for months - but the freezer stopped working. so i emptied the whole thing, defrosted everything, did your various diagnostics, and while it all checks out, the fridge side now leaks water. the freezer still isn't freezing. i get no error codes. oh and i also replaced the power supply board and the main control board. there used to be a smell of over-heated electronic components coming from the control and power board cavity in the back, but after changing those boards, the odor is gone... what am i missing?
It sounds like a clogged or frozen defrost drain. This video will show how to access that area of the fridge here: th-cam.com/video/bPJM0TCaQDg/w-d-xo.html
@@trentoncampbell thank you sir very much. 1 more Q. What if the fan running at the maximum speed,but the air doesn't flow downwards,and at the same time there is also no chokups in between the fan way towards downside the air way. Plz reply sir
Same fan worked earlier after dismantling it again and had to repin the plug but it ohmed out fine. Fan started when I put all together then when I put the cover on it didn't so did the tests....only getting 2 volts also and I'm in OF mode
Genius, thanks Ryan, I searched for hours trying to find info like this!!
Thanks! We are glad you found it helpful!
Fabulous series Ryan..was able to troubleshoot and resolve several issues. Clear, concise and easy to understand videos. Perfect for newbies or self-proclaimed handy-persons....thanks a bunch!!
That is great to hear! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your reply. Your video was done in 2019 so I am surprised you reply now in 2022. I tried to look for the reed switch but could not find it. I will try to keep looking for it.
Once again, thank you.
This helped me alot by identifying that the fans voltage is 12V DC. Checking the voltage with the fan plugged in can be misleading. Mine showed no voltage this way, indicating that the PCB may have been bad, but after taking the fan out and putting 12 volts to it, it would not run! The fan was definitely bad. The PCB stops sending voltage to the fan after it repeatedly gets no response from the fan which can make you think the PCB is bad when it is not. It's a good idea to bench test the fan.
That's good to know! Thank you for sharing.
Watch the video again. He said the voltage to the fans was 8 or 11 VDC. Also you can check the fan motor by checking the continuity between the red and black wires on the fan itself. Continuity good fan motor. open bad motor. He said white wire sends fan speed info back to the PCB.
Yes, but I was getting no voltage while the fan was plugged in to the fridge & the fridge compressor was running, magnets on the reed switches. The PCB had already cut off power to the fan. So I tested the freezer's evap fan with a battery & it worked, the refrigerator evap fan didn't.
Do you have a video for the triple cooling Samsung 4 door flex refrigerator? Bottom freezers are fine but top fridge does not cool. No external signs of frost.
Thank you very much for the magnet trick.I looked forever trying to find out how to shut the light off while the door was open so that I could check my Evaporator fan To see that it was turning. Luckily, I didn't need a voltmeter because I didn't have one. 😊
Happy that we could help!
Great video! I have a different model Samsung RS25H5111, but the circuitry seems the same. My problem is a little bit different. The fan turns freely and there is no ice around it. However, sometimes the fan works either at full speed and sometimes it doesn't work at all even on Power cool. It doesn't matter what temperature the refrigerator is at. Everything seems okay, including the power freeze on the freezer side, but is inconsistent on the refrig side. I ran the full self diagnostic check and there are no error codes picked up. Wiring between the evaporator fan socket to the mother board shows good continuity. The refrigerator can go for a day or more without the fan working and then all of a sudden it starts to work. Would this be a mother board problem or some other sensor causing the mother board not to supply the voltage to the fan?
I have the same problem and model did you find a solution ?
Same here. Not certain about the continuity though. The voltage seems to fluctuate and the slightest movement in the wires either turns the fan off or on again. Would love to know if either of you found something out.
I have the same model refrigerator and the same problem. Have you found a solution to your problem?
RF27T5501SG same problem I’m thinking it’s a faulty fan
@@_No__1 looks like faulty connection and perhaps a faulty main board
Thanks for the video. I replaced the main control board and now the system cycles on but fails to provide proper voltage to fan (multimeter reading 1.6v DC) which is not blocked but not spinning either. This causes a system restart. Any suggestions?
How did you solved this?
Hey parts doctor I really appreciate that video can you tell me about the French door switch for the Samsung dual fan evaporator
Dear Parts Dr, your video was helpful to see if the fan went on with the lights off. Can you tell me for the samsung RF197ACPN with the french door and freezer door on the bottom, where to turn off the light on the bottom drawer. I used the two magnets on the top doors and it works. But I cannot find anything on the manuals about the light sensor switch on the bottom drawer. Your help would be appreciated.
Look for a reed switch on the freezer wall. It should look like one of these two:
partsdr.com/part/da34-00043j-switch
partsdr.com/part/da34-00043c-switch
My fridge has a freezer fan that controls the bottom and the top(RF27T5501SG) fan works but it’s not cooling the top the damper works as well now I’m not sure what it will be do you think the fan it’s not working fast enough?
Hi. Tks for the video. May I know if the fridge can go down 5 degree celcius when empty, BUT when I start to put in two drawer of fruit, the temperature can only go to 11 degree. And if I put the other shelves of food, the lowest temperature it can go is 14 degree.... May I know what could be the likely problem pls?
Hi Ryan, my evaporator fan is stuck at the cycle that you mentioned at 2:46.
My condenser is not frozen up and freezer works correctly. Fridge wont go below 18C before of this fan issue.
I have replaced the fan but same thing happened. Should I replace my main control board?
Hi Jerry. It's up to you what you would like to replace on the refrigerator. Since replacing the fan motor did not fix the problem, the next thing to replace would be the main control board to fix this type of problem.
@@PartsDr I shall do that. Thanks alot!
I have fan issue, tested voltage like in video and I only get 7v fan does the start stop 5 times then nothing. tested at pcb outlet and 7v there too so assume I need a new PCB? visual inspection of board everything looks perfect. What would you suggest I do next before I burn it?
What is the model code/BOM name of the refrigerator? th-cam.com/video/4HhWL9sonuE/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Very thorough! Thank you!
You're welcome!
My refrigerator makes 5 attempts to start the fan motor and then disables it. I measured the voltage on the fan (while it was making start attempts) it was correct 11.3V, I even got a replacement fan which behaves the same way. Looks like the control board can't get a feedback from the fan that it's spinning...Bad control board?
It sounds like a bad control board. Let us know what you find.
Hi, I have a Samsung RSG257AAWP. My freezer side is not cold enough. The temperature on the panel shows -2 F, but the temperature taken inside is 39. I want to test the fan, but there are no arrows anywhere on the frame around the freezer door to attach the magnets. How do I trick it to think the door is closed to turn on the fan?
Try looking at where the magnet is located on the door and then align your magnet in the same spot.
@@PartsDr that's a good idea, but the magnets sticks along all three sides of the door except the left side where the hinges are. I removed the fan, connected to a 9v battery and it turned on. So the fan is good. I just need to check if there's power coming out to the fan.
I found the solution from a youtube video. I need to put a magnet on top of the plastic cover of the hinges. My fan turned on when the light turned off.
@@brianc7146 👍
Great tips. Can you help me figure out my issue please? Freezer cold, main fridge not- running about 50F (this same unit in this video- Samsung RF24xxx). The voltage to fan is perfect. With magnets on, I observed that the main fridge fan is "running." Could it be running too slow- anyway to check that (fan speed?) The defrost temp. Sensor checked out fine- the ohm values perfectly match those on the Samsung chart. I tested at room temp., 70F and ~33F (ice water.) The coils in the back were just cleaned and no interior vents are blocked.
At this point, should I change the fan and cover assembly just in case the fan is old and running slow? The fridge is 7 years old. The evaporator in the main fridge has been consistently icing but I manually defrosted it, completely cleared the drain / tubes and I think it's better now but it haven't been too long to know for sure. In FD mode (Forced Defrost), I put ice near the sensor, I read a temp of the heater element to ~300F near the bottom yet the top of the coil was relatively cool 70F's. The coil is however completely clear of ice and draining fine, yet inside the fridge is about 50F. WHAT CAN I TRY NEXT TO SOLVE THIS ISSUE PLEASE?
You said, "The defrost temp. Sensor checked out fine- the ohm values perfectly match those on the Samsung chart. I tested at room temp., 70F and ~33F (ice water.)"
Where did you find this info ( Samsung charts of sensor resistance readings )
Thnx
I have the same issue. When is the fan supposed to be running in high and when in low? Is there a way to check if it's not running in high speed, as it does in fact run fine and all cleaned out as you did...but I'm not sure if it's running in high speed, were you able to solve this? thanks
@@stevemaier5979 I'm not a 100% sure. Typically the speed will be controlled by the motherboard. If the fan is working in low than the fan itself is working. Beyond that I suppose you could check with a meter a meter or simpler way might be to Put a little recording device inside the refrigerator and listen to here the RP m's increase or decrease.It will only kick onto higher RP m's as needed though.If everything else is working it's probably OK
On the schematic will it tell you to test using dc setting
what should be the resistor of freezer and refrigerator fan respectively? is 97.5 K and 12 K ok for the freezer and refrigerator fans? they do have sound of working when the system is plugged in.
We don't usually find a resistance test to be an accurate way to test these fan motors. Even if they test good in the resistance test, the motor can still be bad.
@@PartsDr Thanks for the reply. I have a Samsung inverter refrigerator (freezer top). It works fine until around 7 hours and then stops working. If I unplug and plug it right away, it wont turn on. After some hours, it will turn on. It has high temperature fluctuation. If I set the freezer to -21C, it will even cool down to -32C. The Samsung official service came and said my evaporator is having a small hole. I didnt accept. Then 3 more technicians came. One said the defrost system is problematic and changed the sensors without measuring the resistors. Then another one came and said the invertor motor should be replaced. Then another one came, took the inverter board and returned and then he said, it is hard to find the cause, buy a new Ref! Since then, I am trying the repair it without experience. I just am an electronic engineer and understand something from the board; however, I do not even have the board map!
What do you think?
@@mahanmahrueyan8806you can probably find the service manual if you Google "model# service manual'
I have a Samsung 4 door flex refrigerator the refrigerator part will not get below 57 degrees but the freezer part works fine I'm assuming the freezer and the refrigerator has two separate evaporator fans is that correct!
Yes, most Samsung refrigerators have an evaporator fan in each compartment.
@@PartsDr okay I will check it thank you
Hi, I have the same issue. Did you resolve it?
Thanks for the información,
We're glad you found it helpful!
the yellow ,blue and white wires how can I wire it up for a fan for something diff. ????
STRONG WORK SON!
👊
My fan functions at the onset but stops running after around 24 hours from when the fridge was plugged. If the control board disables fan for ten minutes, I suppose there won't be any power when tested. Will there always be power in the main control board? I'm trying to figure out if the board or fan that needs replacing (maybe it runs low after 24 hours so the board switches off the power, is that possible?).
Just to add, the fan didn't have power when being tested. The board also had fluctuating power during testing. However when the fridge was unplugged and replugged because the front panel needed to be reset, the fan started working again. Then it stopped again the following day and the system wasn't cooling.
@@Flying_Gamer76 did you find the problem? Most likely the fan
How can test whirlpool evaporator motor plese
Hi, I sure hope you can help. I had a c 22 error, ( pretty sure that means the control board is fine if it detects errors?) I replaced my fan ( it was frozen up, rusted) and now it moves. The error is gone! but the fan never comes on? I know I connected it right, and it free to move. I got an AC 7 volts on white, but no DC. red to ground I get 1 volt DC. So confused.
I am about to order a fan motor myself….same 22c code. Did you resolve the issue?
@@ramjet358 no ditched it. I fixed it a few years ago with a new fan but this last time no luck. Tried a new board and sensor. No luck so got rid of it.
@@greensseanpam5616ok thanks for your quick reply. I guess I’ll give it a go. Other than this one, did you ever come across a video or instructions involving a triple cooling unit?
@@ramjet358 no, nothing like that
New fan worked. Hopefully it will last more than 5 years (or 5 months!). Thanks.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Can you test it by setting your multimeter to volts AC instead and check for 120 volts?
No, it is a DC powered fan motor so the multimeter must be set to DC and checked for DC voltage.
So does the proper dc voltage for the evaporator fan vary from Samsung fridge to Samsung fridge or is this the universal voltage reading we should look for?
@@okeyokafor2770 It can vary on each model refrigerator.
@@okeyokafor2770 is your fan 110v?
thank you genious!!!
😎
Can I buy a fan a motor f together for my side by side Samsung fridge ?
What is f together?
How do we do the test without instrument??
We do not know of a way to do a voltage test without a proper tool like a multimeter.
I have a Samsung fridge rf28hfedtsr/aa 06 it's been giving me problems for a while ice maker froze up coil same thing cleared the codes Thawed it out now it want get no colder than 57 degrees what should i do?
Did you resolve it?
any thoughts as to why my rs265tdrs/xaa leaks water on the floor at the front of the fridge side, about once a day? the water seems to come from under the fridge, not from inside of it. the evaporator tray underneath seems to fill evenly but the water isn't evaporating fast enough. it used to leak water from inside the freezer, which would also freeze in the bottom of the freezer, but it did that for months - but the freezer stopped working. so i emptied the whole thing, defrosted everything, did your various diagnostics, and while it all checks out, the fridge side now leaks water. the freezer still isn't freezing.
i get no error codes. oh and i also replaced the power supply board and the main control board. there used to be a smell of over-heated electronic components coming from the control and power board cavity in the back, but after changing those boards, the odor is gone... what am i missing?
It sounds like a clogged or frozen defrost drain. This video will show how to access that area of the fridge here: th-cam.com/video/bPJM0TCaQDg/w-d-xo.html
How does the fan know the door is open? I.e how do you test out of fridge
Check out these two videos on the reed switches for the doors.
th-cam.com/video/F76qOqyYOqY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/piyeX7dhFds/w-d-xo.html
Hello sir good evening.
what is the work of white wire in the fan
The white wire sends the fan rpm to the control board.
@@trentoncampbell thank you sir very much.
1 more Q.
What if the fan running at the maximum speed,but the air doesn't flow downwards,and at the same time there is also no chokups in between the fan way towards downside the air way.
Plz reply sir
My number 9324392941
@@brijmohansharma3079 most likely bad fan
How long does it take for fan to come on once you bypass door switches? I was getting 2.1 volts DC only it was going up real slow.
On most that we have seen it is usually pretty fast, typically less than a few seconds.
Same fan worked earlier after dismantling it again and had to repin the plug but it ohmed out fine. Fan started when I put all together then when I put the cover on it didn't so did the tests....only getting 2 volts also and I'm in OF mode
Maybe I'm impatient and expect fan to run when I put on OF mode
Not getting voltage for vcc on fridge fan. Replaced control board and got same result.
Try testing the door reed switches.
th-cam.com/video/F76qOqyYOqY/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/piyeX7dhFds/w-d-xo.html
Hello, Yves from Belgium, RS7528THCSP Error 22E, fan 9.6 kohm, voltage i get only 6V ???, so first turned very slow, than didnt turn at all ....help
Did you find solution?
Yes a new fan motor
@@aisenandrosov5713Samsung DA31-00334C koeler/ventilator motor - bldc ;12035GE-12M-yt 1775 ±7% 12
Polarity of the magnets matter. Everything checked out good for me. Still have a refrigerator that freezes the food...... On to the next tests.
Check the damper if it had one
Please 22C
Same here. Any luck?
Defy DFF425 P5
Hello
Samsung double door unit kaise check Karen Sir Koi Tarika Bataan.