How to make a Matrix Mold
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2019
- Welcome back! Today we are going to be taking a look at the matrix mold.
Enjoy!
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#matrixmold #moldmaking #props - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Sick vid. Helpful!
very helpful, thanks
Nicely done, thanks for the video!
Thank you so much! I'm glad you enjoyed the video
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Would you recommend the same type of clay when working with perishables (fruit)? And is this entire process achievable in one day?
Great technique, dude!
Thanks! I'm happy you enjoyed it
Great video! There's not a lot of good matrix mold videos out there that aren't 40min long.
I'm glad you enjoyed it! thanks!!
nice vid, is matrix mold worth for figures like 3 cm each?
Nice mold! All the tech sheets call for 3/8" thick rubber for matrix molds. Do you find that doing 1/4" is good enough so that there is no distortion in the parts when being casted?
you can go thicker and i have on some molds. However, since the matrix mold and its jacked are keyed perfectly to each other I have never had a problem with distortion. That being said, if you were to do a larger part like a helmet, 3/8" would be a good thickness to shoot for, or being more strategic with your keys and their placement
Muito bom
high level
This might be a super dumb question but why do you cover up the bleeder holes with clay? Isn't the point of them so that the excess silicone can come out?
Bleeder holes are there for the air to escape, once it starts bleeding the air in that area is gone.
you said there would be links in the description for the materials used? i cant see any links:(
Yeah, amazon is a D*ck and cancelled my affiliate links cause at the time I had less then 500 subs. now that I am super kuul and have slightly more then 500 subs I'll start putting links back up, so I can make that sweet, sweet $11.00 a year. Thanks for watching though, I really do appreciate it. message or email if you want specific links for what i use. Thanks again
what do you mean with "wasted silicone when doing a brush on mold"? do you mean the little rest left in the mixing pot?
No, when you do molds such as a brush on you'll get run off or dripping as your silicone sets, as well you're not able to measure the exact amount you need for a uniform mold. That's one advantage to a Matrix mold, non of your silicone is being lost as it would when it drips off a brush on. That being said, brush on molds have their place in mold making and are still great for many applications. The main advantage to Matrix molds, is it's uniformity, lack of silicone waste and how well they lock into their jacket. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@ZombieMeatStudio try thickening the silicone yourself. mechanically (with powder) gives better viscosity control, is degassable, self leveling, but less flexible and less tear resistant. chemical thickeners are tougher to dose inbetween runny and stringy, but dont change the silicones properties. the resulting gel is not degassable and harder to shape smoothly, but you can sculpt the last layer using soapy water to stop the stickyness, or inbetween with a little ipa. mold uniformity is only really necessary whith foam applications and with soft silicones. and the uniformity and locking depends on how well you are able to shape it! forgive me for saying it, but you used way more silicone with your matrix mold than you would have used with a correctly made brush-on mold.
@@TheZahnputz yup, I am aware of that. I usually use Thi-vex to thicken silicone for brush on applications. However, your first coat should be a "print or splash coat" of unthickend silicone to better capture the detail of your part as well as reduce the chance of air bubbles. you can also use silicons like rebound that self thickens and are designed for brush on work. In the end your always going to have a level of wasted silicone when doing a brush on. To that, There's reasons for brush on molds over a matrix mold and vice versa.
anyways, thank you for your comments.
I'm glad I ran into this video. I'm working on some engineering hardware and using a matrix mold is absolutely ingenious for ensuring not wasting material.
I'll be snagging some epoxamite for casting the more complex parts... Now to make something cool.
EDIT: On second thought, for small parts, SmoothCast 300 would be better especially with a cure time of ten minutes
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