I am brand new to learning about the mechanics of my 2000 Powerstroke 7.3L engine. Your videos are wonderful! They’re clear, concise, detailed, and step by step. This video has given me the confidence to tackle my glow plug situation to see if I can figure out why it’s working the way it’s working. Thank you for being such a good teacher!
Thank you for your step by step diagnosing/ troubleshooting of the glow plug circuit it was exactly what I needed for what I am doing today you simplified what I always manage to over complicate thanks again.
Great information I am currently working on our 01 7.3 have a no crank situation and have been trying to diagnose. Have eliminated all the easy stuff... maybe. You have given me another test to do on relay. There's definitely a spark between the posts
Thanks for the in-depth guide. I have a '99 7.3 that has been belching white smoke during cold starts. I probed the 8 glow plug pins on the valve cover plugs with my multimeter set to 200 Ohms. Three of the pins came back with a resistance of 1.7, the other five didn't even generate a number so they were well above 200 Ohms.
Thank you !! 😊 This is the most helpful, informative, simple, easy to understand video i have found for glow plug and glow plug relay problems !! I am subscribing !
Easily the most informative and helpful video on these gp systems. My 73 IDI ambulance has been a pain in the rear every winter From something to do with the glow plug system can you just save me a lot of diagnostic time thank you!
Thank you. Greatly appreciate it your time. I just replaced my IDM and then this morning my glow plug relay went out and blew a 30 amp fuse. Should I be concerned about the fuse that feeds the relay? Thanks
Very well done and I don’t know one area of information you left out. I never knew that about the pulsating relay after startup. I always thought my relay was going bad and then I thought I bought a faulty relay when I replaced it but luckily never cared enough to replace it again. I have a 96 California truck. I’m guessing it does that only on the 96’s and 97’s.
Glad I watched your channel. I'm not sure what's going on with my 7.3. I first noticed that the constant power to my relay was out. Something burnt my fusible link. I change the wire and found that my relay was bad. Now I think my glow plugs are toast. When I checked them my reading was 0.00. Either I'm not checking them correctly or my gp's are out. I appreciate your video and would certainly like to see glow plug replacement. Thanks again and a great video.
the first thing is that that all 8 glow P are not going to be bad.2nd the truck will start with 3 bad glow plugs it will take longer but it will start@@diymechanictv1233
Bro ur video is great thank u. Huge help I’m very new to diesel trucks and I don’t really know how to use an ohm meter. Apparently it seams like I have to replace the glow plugs… I’m hopping u cover this in a video I just subscribed
Hey, Glad you found the video helpful! And as a matter of fact, there's a video on the channel for GP replacement already! Enjoy! th-cam.com/video/5hNbX-PrTP8/w-d-xo.html
I've been very pleased with the DieselRx glow plugs thus far and I think the genuine Motorcraft units are a good option as well. Summit Racing sells Diesel Rx and shipping is quick and inexpensive of you decide to go that route, or Rock Auto for Motorcraft.
@@diymechanictv1233 My buddy has a 1997 F250 powerstroke 7.3 and he just replaced both batteries and now he is getting no crank. We can get it started with the key on and touching the starting solenoid. Do you have any suggestions. Thank you
@Andrew Schuler, Check all the connections at the starter relay on the passenger side fender, especially the small terminal with the one little wire on it. That is the signal from the ignition switch. If all the connections seem right, take that one single, small wire off and check for voltage there (using a multi meter set to DC volts or a test light) when he turns the key to the start position. If you get power there but the truck still won't start with everything hooked up, he likely needs to replace that starter relay.
@@diymechanictv1233 We did replace the Starter relay and still have no crank. We even replaced the Starter because it was bad. The small wire you're talking about, doesn't bolt on. It just pushed on like a spark plug wire on a distributor.
Hello, thanks for the info video. I have a 97 as well and was working in my shop the other day and accidentally left the ignition in the on position, I have no idea either. But it was on all night and when I went out the next day to start it, well you can guess the outcome. And now I have no glow lite on the dash but if I cycle the ignition a few times it actually starts and it's been in the mid 20's to mid 30's. Got any clues as to why, I'm on my way back to the barn to do your checks.
i am new to this. but mix half gas ,half diesel and spray in the intake housing . look into bypass the relay with a screw driver ,touching the 2 bib connectors. i hope this will help.at least give more knowledge.
What happens if you get a negative resistance I got negative 44 resistance and then when I had it on the highest ohm setting since I'm using a craftsman seven function digital multimeter it was giving me negative 400 And my glow plug relay is reading 15 volts on either side of the big lugs they always on in the the one that turns on after you turn the key
Not necessarily. The PCM takes the relay to ground to activate it (closes the ground side of the relay coil). You could have a wiring issue with the positive side of the coil as well.
Hello I am looking to purchase an 1998 e350 service van that was an old ambulance with the 7.3. Any advice on what to look for or be weary for? Thanks!
Hey there! Tell the seller you want to see it start cold (check the engine block or radiator hose before you start it to make sure it is cold and they didn't have it running before you got there). Start it cold and see how much smoke you get from the tailpipe. A little blue haze is normal, but it should clear up within the first minute after you start it. Check the blowby on the engine using the oil cap trick and make sure the transmission shifts like it should (no blinking OD light). Aside from that, it's going to be tough to tell a lot on an E series without getting fairly involved and pulling the doghouse off the motor. Thanks for watching the channel!
Yes! They can stay on for as long as 2 minutes even if the engine has started. If you watch the volt meter carefully you can see it move when they cycle off.
Great video My Question. When the two outside connections on the wiring harness get burned up , I’ve had that several times . Is that because of the two glow plugs are bad or is it because of a bad connection . Can you elaborate what a bad connection is . I’m the original owner of a 1997 Powerstroke. Bought it brand new . It has 550,000 miles. I’ve had to replace the connections from the harness to the valve cover connection many times over 25 years of ownership. I would like to find how to avoid that . Thanks for your time 👍
Great question! The harnesses tend to fail just because the connection gets loose and they start to generate heat (high impedance connection). When the glow plugs fail, they fail open (essentially they burn out) so that isn't going to cause the connector to fail. There are a couple different lines of thinking on what to do to avoid the connection burning up. Some say never to use anything but Motorcraft harnesses and valve cover gaskets, others recommend to use a Dorman revised part that eliminates the inside connection (the gasket and inside harness are one piece). The most widely agreed upon solution, however is to replace all the parts with the 99+ Super Duty design which uses a revised connector and requires installing a different connector on the engine harness. That connector seems to use heavier connectors and hold up better. Good for you for keeping that old truck alive, and thanks for watching. By the way, has the engine ever been rebuilt with all those miles?
@@diymechanictv1233 Ok on your answer I’ve used only the Ford Motor craft valve covers and harness under the valve cover . Next time I may try the Dorman or look into the cost of switching to the 99 super duty set up . I ordered the color scheme and all the options on the truck from the factory and took delivery of it in December of 1996 .It is titled a 1997 . Yes the truck has 550, 343 miles on it . You see with these OBS trucks the odometer will only go as high as 399,999.9. Then after that all the 9’s drop off and it goes back to 300,000.0. I’ve turned my odometer over twice so I have to add 200.000 to the odometer to get the correct mileage.To answer your question yes the motor was changed out at 479,000 miles. It was doing ok but on a long trip on the way back home it developed a pretty bad miss. I was getting within 50 miles to the house so I limped it back in . Bad idea . Either the injector on number 1 piston was dumping fuel into the combustion chamber or or the compression ring just wore out. After much troubles trying to figure out what was wrong a pro mechanic gave me a compression tool that threads into the glow plug. Number 1 piston was bad. I hired a pro mechanic and we put in a Genuine Ford long block. That motor has 71,000 on it. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined but no where able to take out that beast of a motor. I’ve been able to do most other things my self by watching repair videos on you tube from guys like you . I’ve been through a lot of repairs I did myself on this truck . With that many miles stuff is going to break. There is no way I could afford to pay a mechanic to fix everything that broke along the way . The paint on it is amazingly in great condition. People try to buy it from me all the time when I take it on a road trip. Lots of young men are the most interested. When I tell them I’m the original owner it kind blows there mind because the truck is older than they are. That truck is fun to drive still and I love it. Thanks for your videos .
So What would cause the plug at the valve cover gasket to burn up? Thanks to your video I found that my relay was bad. Replaced it , then Started it up and the front plug on both sides of the block are burnt. And its burnt just at the outside two terminals. Any help would be appreciated. Id hate to replace the gaskets and plugs just for it to happen again.
The connection gets loose over time and then it heats up and burns the plastic. Those little connectors aren't very big for the amount of current they carry when the glow plugs are on. Some guys change the plugs and gaskets to the newer 99 up design because it uses heavier pins for those connections.
Got ya. The more I look into it I'm learning that its not all that uncommon. I was worried there was something else going on. I'll look into that upgrade. Thanks again!@@diymechanictv1233
Had zero problem with my glow plug system until I replaced the injector pump, the injectors, and the glow plugs this last week... Didn't think I damaged anything or forgot a wire, but the wait light goes off after 3 seconds (usually 12), and the relay begins clicking as the plugs are pulsed... The PCM takes info from several sensors and 'decides' what to do, so I DO suspect a sudden and random damage to something... I purged the lines, and it started just fine... Ran for a day brilliantly, felt a definite improvement in performance, but day two started this issue... Is there a tester I can rent that diagnoses the entire system, including all the sensor data?
I'm assuming you have a Powerstroke and mean the HPOP and not injection pump (as an IDI would have). If so, the PCM bases the glow plug timing off of the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor (EOT) on the inboard side of the HPOP reservoir. If that was unplugged or damaged, that could cause the issue you describe. Most inexpensive scanners don't "speak PSD" so they won't be much help. If you're tech savvy, I recommend a Bluetooth OBDII adaptor and the Torque Pro app for Android. It will give you an EOT reading and on a cold start, it should be close to the ambient temperature. If not, that's likely your issue. Good place to start, anyway! Good luck with the truck.
@@diymechanictv1233 Thanks for the response... It's an naturally aspirated 89 IDI 7.3... I found the oil (block?) heat sensor unplugged... Don't know why... I certainly had no reason to. Saw a trick on TH-cam to disconnect all the battery terminals, turn on the lights, and let any oddball power circuitry drain completely... The PCM is a small time computer and may simply need a turn off/turn on fix... Will be trying that today.
Yes sir I have a 7.3 turbo diesel powerstroke on a 354 and I've it's been tied up for one year not running so I went to the harsh weather and the other day when I tried to start it by putting the battery back in it cranked and cranked but never did start. I noticed when I turn the key on the glow plug light did not come on. Please help me on this because it's going to cost me a lot of money to tow it to a crooked diesel shop and I'm afraid to do that.
For some reason, I tested them previously and was reading like .5-.7 ohms. And that was only a week or so ago. But now all of them read out to be 0 flat. I did take apart my fuel pump and filter housing but it wouldn’t make sense for them to not be working unless it’s missing a ground from one of the plugs I unhooked
I have a 1995 that isn’t getting a ground signal to the glow plug relay. Also no Waite to start light. Thinking it maybe the computer. Have you ever came across this problem thanks.
I would agree that it sounds like it could be the computer. Is the PCM powering up? Do you have power at the red wire to the PCM plug? Check fuse 22 under the hood, if not.
Thank you for reaching out to me. Yes I have three different powers going in but nothing coming out. All fuses are good. Sent the computer off to SIA electronics to get checked and rebuilt. Said it would be a couple weeks. Thanks will let you know. Have a good day.
If the batteries are dead, I'd suggest starting with a pair of new batteries. Diesel engines need to crank over quickly to ingite the fuel in the cylinders, so you'll have a tough time starting it with weak or dying batteries.
Would you believe, I have a low mileage 1997 F-250 7.3 and only lost 1 glow plug in 26 years. I just replaced the relay for the second time only today.
there are 4 plugs. he checked the front 2 glow plugs. some may not understand need to check all glow plugs. again if i pull valve cover i put new plugs in. i know i am wasting money but just like knowing there new. i have a 1997 jacked up head studs air to air with chap in pcm 4" straight exhaust with exhaust brake. have 44" tires. its my baby. i use old plug on different plow & dump trucks i have
There are other videos on 7.3 glow plugs and that the 'Motorcraft" glow plugs from Amazon last only 6 months. The common dominator is that they were all bought on Amazon. I'm now curious of the price difference on Amazon "Motorcraft" vs dealer price on Motorcraft. I'm going with dealer Motorcraft regardless. Don't want to do this every 6 months.
i personally pay the dealer price. as he said maybe faulty part. dealer will warranty parts. also check different deal prices. they all seem to have different pricing. glow plugs are E-Z. you get in to cam fazers & chains you really need deal parts ONLY. this engine does not have chain fazer parts, im just saying you do get what you pay for
NO EITHER NO EITHER NO EITHER. A diesel engine will not fire on either it has to have fuel for either to work. so if its out of fuel it will not fire on either. & will posable deform glow plug making tip stick in cylinder. NO EITHER
I am brand new to learning about the mechanics of my 2000 Powerstroke 7.3L engine. Your videos are wonderful! They’re clear, concise, detailed, and step by step. This video has given me the confidence to tackle my glow plug situation to see if I can figure out why it’s working the way it’s working. Thank you for being such a good teacher!
Glad you like them! Thanks for the kind words and for watching.
this guy is good. he does a nice job SHOWING what & how. its nice to have nice tools, he does a good job showing with just a test light
Thank you sir! I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your step by step diagnosing/ troubleshooting of the glow plug circuit it was exactly what I needed for what I am doing today you simplified what I always manage to over complicate thanks again.
Glad you found it useful.
I just bought a 97 7.3 and I'm so glad I came across these videos!!
I'm glad you found them to be helpful! Welcome to the 7.3 OBS club. They're great trucks.
Great information I am currently working on our 01 7.3 have a no crank situation and have been trying to diagnose. Have eliminated all the easy stuff... maybe. You have given me another test to do on relay. There's definitely a spark between the posts
Make sure your battery posts and cables are sparkling clean and tight
Thanks for the in-depth guide. I have a '99 7.3 that has been belching white smoke during cold starts. I probed the 8 glow plug pins on the valve cover plugs with my multimeter set to 200 Ohms. Three of the pins came back with a resistance of 1.7, the other five didn't even generate a number so they were well above 200 Ohms.
Thank you !! 😊 This is the most helpful, informative, simple, easy to understand video i have found for glow plug and glow plug relay problems !! I am subscribing !
Thank you, sir! I hope the videos are worth your time and the subscription.
@@diymechanictv1233 you're very welcome !!
Another awesomely informational video!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Thanks Videos like yours makes it easy to teach yourself it’s appreciated
Following for your to-the-point and informative post.
97 7.3
Thank you! I try to keep it simple. Things seem to work best that way.
Easily the most informative and helpful video on these gp systems. My 73 IDI ambulance has been a pain in the rear every winter From something to do with the glow plug system can you just save me a lot of diagnostic time thank you!
Wish I could be more help with the IDI, but my experience with those is really limited. I just haven't had much exposure to them.
Thank you. Greatly appreciate it your time. I just replaced my IDM and then this morning my glow plug relay went out and blew a 30 amp fuse. Should I be concerned about the fuse that feeds the relay? Thanks
Very good. Clear and concise.
I'm glad you found it helpful!
Thanks for watching.
Exceedingly Super clear Instructions. Thank YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you a great informative video!👍🏼
I'm glad you found it helpful! Thank YOU for watching!
Great video. Congratulations
Thank you for watching the channel!
What helpful Video! Learned Alot.
I'm glad you found the video to be helpful! Thank you for watching.
thanks for the guidance and for the great explication
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Thank you great video!!!!!!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Best video hands down
Thank You!!
Very well done and I don’t know one area of information you left out. I never knew that about the pulsating relay after startup. I always thought my relay was going bad and then I thought I bought a faulty relay when I replaced it but luckily never cared enough to replace it again. I have a 96 California truck. I’m guessing it does that only on the 96’s and 97’s.
Thank you for the kind words, and for watching!
Glad I watched your channel. I'm not sure what's going on with my 7.3. I first noticed that the constant power to my relay was out. Something burnt my fusible link. I change the wire and found that my relay was bad. Now I think my glow plugs are toast. When I checked them my reading was 0.00. Either I'm not checking them correctly or my gp's are out. I appreciate your video and would certainly like to see glow plug replacement. Thanks again and a great video.
Ask and you shall receive!
Glow plug replacement video:
th-cam.com/video/5hNbX-PrTP8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching the channel!
the first thing is that that all 8 glow P are not going to be bad.2nd the truck will start with 3 bad glow plugs it will take longer but it will start@@diymechanictv1233
Bro ur video is great thank u. Huge help I’m very new to diesel trucks and I don’t really know how to use an ohm meter. Apparently it seams like I have to replace the glow plugs… I’m hopping u cover this in a video I just subscribed
Hey, Glad you found the video helpful! And as a matter of fact, there's a video on the channel for GP replacement already! Enjoy! th-cam.com/video/5hNbX-PrTP8/w-d-xo.html
Great video thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
I think I have a set of the junk motorcraft ones in my truck right now. Like you say 6 or 8 months old. What kind would you recommend instead?
I've been very pleased with the DieselRx glow plugs thus far and I think the genuine Motorcraft units are a good option as well. Summit Racing sells Diesel Rx and shipping is quick and inexpensive of you decide to go that route, or Rock Auto for Motorcraft.
Man you just saved me taking it to the shop or just start buying blind! Thanks man! I now have plans for this weekend
Glad you found it helpful!
@@diymechanictv1233 My buddy has a 1997 F250 powerstroke 7.3 and he just replaced both batteries and now he is getting no crank. We can get it started with the key on and touching the starting solenoid. Do you have any suggestions. Thank you
@Andrew Schuler, Check all the connections at the starter relay on the passenger side fender, especially the small terminal with the one little wire on it. That is the signal from the ignition switch. If all the connections seem right, take that one single, small wire off and check for voltage there (using a multi meter set to DC volts or a test light) when he turns the key to the start position. If you get power there but the truck still won't start with everything hooked up, he likely needs to replace that starter relay.
@@diymechanictv1233 We did replace the Starter relay and still have no crank. We even replaced the Starter because it was bad. The small wire you're talking about, doesn't bolt on. It just pushed on like a spark plug wire on a distributor.
Correct. Check there to make sure you're getting 12 volts when the key is turned to the start position.
Hello, thanks for the info video.
I have a 97 as well and was working in my shop the other day and accidentally left the ignition in the on position, I have no idea either.
But it was on all night and when I went out the next day to start it, well you can guess the outcome.
And now I have no glow lite on the dash but if I cycle the ignition a few times it actually starts and it's been in the mid 20's to mid 30's.
Got any clues as to why, I'm on my way back to the barn to do your checks.
i am new to this. but mix half gas ,half diesel and spray in the intake housing . look into bypass the relay with a screw driver ,touching the 2 bib connectors. i hope this will help.at least give more knowledge.
What happens if you get a negative resistance I got negative 44 resistance and then when I had it on the highest ohm setting since I'm using a craftsman seven function digital multimeter it was giving me negative 400 And my glow plug relay is reading 15 volts on either side of the big lugs they always on in the the one that turns on after you turn the key
So if I have no power on the relay except for the pos battery. I should be looking at the pcm?
Not necessarily. The PCM takes the relay to ground to activate it (closes the ground side of the relay coil). You could have a wiring issue with the positive side of the coil as well.
Hello I am looking to purchase an 1998 e350 service van that was an old ambulance with the 7.3. Any advice on what to look for or be weary for? Thanks!
Hey there! Tell the seller you want to see it start cold (check the engine block or radiator hose before you start it to make sure it is cold and they didn't have it running before you got there). Start it cold and see how much smoke you get from the tailpipe. A little blue haze is normal, but it should clear up within the first minute after you start it. Check the blowby on the engine using the oil cap trick and make sure the transmission shifts like it should (no blinking OD light). Aside from that, it's going to be tough to tell a lot on an E series without getting fairly involved and pulling the doghouse off the motor. Thanks for watching the channel!
Hello, I have a problem with that engine. It changed injectors, injector harness, preheaters, oil pressure valve. but it takes time to boot.
Do the glow plug relay comes of after engine starts
Yes! They can stay on for as long as 2 minutes even if the engine has started. If you watch the volt meter carefully you can see it move when they cycle off.
Great video My Question. When the two outside connections on the wiring harness get burned up , I’ve had that several times . Is that because of the two glow plugs are bad or is it because of a bad connection . Can you elaborate what a bad connection is . I’m the original owner of a 1997 Powerstroke. Bought it brand new . It has 550,000 miles. I’ve had to replace the connections from the harness to the valve cover connection many times over 25 years of ownership. I would like to find how to avoid that . Thanks for your time 👍
Great question! The harnesses tend to fail just because the connection gets loose and they start to generate heat (high impedance connection). When the glow plugs fail, they fail open (essentially they burn out) so that isn't going to cause the connector to fail. There are a couple different lines of thinking on what to do to avoid the connection burning up. Some say never to use anything but Motorcraft harnesses and valve cover gaskets, others recommend to use a Dorman revised part that eliminates the inside connection (the gasket and inside harness are one piece). The most widely agreed upon solution, however is to replace all the parts with the 99+ Super Duty design which uses a revised connector and requires installing a different connector on the engine harness. That connector seems to use heavier connectors and hold up better.
Good for you for keeping that old truck alive, and thanks for watching.
By the way, has the engine ever been rebuilt with all those miles?
@@diymechanictv1233
Ok on your answer I’ve used only the Ford Motor craft valve covers and harness under the valve cover . Next time I may try the Dorman or look into the cost of switching to the 99 super duty set up . I ordered the color scheme and all the options on the truck from the factory and took delivery of it in December of 1996 .It is titled a 1997 . Yes the truck has 550, 343 miles on it . You see with these OBS trucks the odometer will only go as high as 399,999.9. Then after that all the 9’s drop off and it goes back to 300,000.0. I’ve turned my odometer over twice so I have to add 200.000 to the odometer to get the correct mileage.To answer your question yes the motor was changed out at 479,000 miles. It was doing ok but on a long trip on the way back home it developed a pretty bad miss. I was getting within 50 miles to the house so I limped it back in . Bad idea . Either the injector on number 1 piston was dumping fuel into the combustion chamber or or the compression ring just wore out. After much troubles trying to figure out what was wrong a pro mechanic gave me a compression tool that threads into the glow plug. Number 1 piston was bad. I hired a pro mechanic and we put in a Genuine Ford long block. That motor has 71,000 on it. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined but no where able to take out that beast of a motor. I’ve been able to do most other things my self by watching repair videos on you tube from guys like you . I’ve been through a lot of repairs I did myself on this truck . With that many miles stuff is going to break. There is no way I could afford to pay a mechanic to fix everything that broke along the way . The paint on it is amazingly in great condition. People try to buy it from me all the time when I take it on a road trip. Lots of young men are the most interested. When I tell them I’m the original owner it kind blows there mind because the truck is older than they are.
That truck is fun to drive still and I love it. Thanks for your videos .
Awesome! Thanks so much for sharing the story on your struck with us. A one owner truck is definitely a rarity these days.
So What would cause the plug at the valve cover gasket to burn up? Thanks to your video I found that my relay was bad. Replaced it , then Started it up and the front plug on both sides of the block are burnt. And its burnt just at the outside two terminals. Any help would be appreciated. Id hate to replace the gaskets and plugs just for it to happen again.
The connection gets loose over time and then it heats up and burns the plastic. Those little connectors aren't very big for the amount of current they carry when the glow plugs are on. Some guys change the plugs and gaskets to the newer 99 up design because it uses heavier pins for those connections.
Got ya. The more I look into it I'm learning that its not all that uncommon. I was worried there was something else going on. I'll look into that upgrade. Thanks again!@@diymechanictv1233
Thanks for watching the channel!
Is it normal to have a 1-2volt drop across the terminals of the relay when glowplug light is on?
Yeah, a little voltage drop is normal, but if it's more than a couple volts, the relay is probably failing.
Had zero problem with my glow plug system until I replaced the injector pump, the injectors, and the glow plugs this last week... Didn't think I damaged anything or forgot a wire, but the wait light goes off after 3 seconds (usually 12), and the relay begins clicking as the plugs are pulsed... The PCM takes info from several sensors and 'decides' what to do, so I DO suspect a sudden and random damage to something... I purged the lines, and it started just fine... Ran for a day brilliantly, felt a definite improvement in performance, but day two started this issue...
Is there a tester I can rent that diagnoses the entire system, including all the sensor data?
I'm assuming you have a Powerstroke and mean the HPOP and not injection pump (as an IDI would have). If so, the PCM bases the glow plug timing off of the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor (EOT) on the inboard side of the HPOP reservoir. If that was unplugged or damaged, that could cause the issue you describe. Most inexpensive scanners don't "speak PSD" so they won't be much help. If you're tech savvy, I recommend a Bluetooth OBDII adaptor and the Torque Pro app for Android. It will give you an EOT reading and on a cold start, it should be close to the ambient temperature. If not, that's likely your issue. Good place to start, anyway! Good luck with the truck.
@@diymechanictv1233 Thanks for the response... It's an naturally aspirated 89 IDI 7.3... I found the oil (block?) heat sensor unplugged... Don't know why... I certainly had no reason to. Saw a trick on TH-cam to disconnect all the battery terminals, turn on the lights, and let any oddball power circuitry drain completely... The PCM is a small time computer and may simply need a turn off/turn on fix... Will be trying that today.
Yes sir I have a 7.3 turbo diesel powerstroke on a 354 and I've it's been tied up for one year not running so I went to the harsh weather and the other day when I tried to start it by putting the battery back in it cranked and cranked but never did start. I noticed when I turn the key on the glow plug light did not come on. Please help me on this because it's going to cost me a lot of money to tow it to a crooked diesel shop and I'm afraid to do that.
My apology it's a 7.3 powerstroke diesel Ford engine on a 350 chassis
For some reason, I tested them previously and was reading like .5-.7 ohms. And that was only a week or so ago. But now all of them read out to be 0 flat. I did take apart my fuel pump and filter housing but it wouldn’t make sense for them to not be working unless it’s missing a ground from one of the plugs I unhooked
Any ideas?
I'd bet they failed. It seemed like that's how mine went. Working one day, all dead the next. Really bizarre.
Did u get a code ? P1395 bank 1 glow plug monitor fault ? Check engine light ? I got a cali 7.3 tryna figure it out
OBS trucks don't set codes for glow plug issues, unfortunately, so you have to figure it out the old-fashioned way.
Is it safe to short out the terminals for the glow plugs with a screw driver multiple times? (Asking for a friend 😂)
Yes. You're just doing to work of the relay (which has probably failed) when you do that. It won't hurt anything.
I have a 1995 that isn’t getting a ground signal to the glow plug relay.
Also no Waite to start light.
Thinking it maybe the computer.
Have you ever came across this problem thanks.
I would agree that it sounds like it could be the computer. Is the PCM powering up? Do you have power at the red wire to the PCM plug? Check fuse 22 under the hood, if not.
Thank you for reaching out to me.
Yes I have three different powers going in but nothing coming out.
All fuses are good.
Sent the computer off to SIA electronics to get checked and rebuilt.
Said it would be a couple weeks.
Thanks will let you know.
Have a good day.
When I do this and what to start on my 95 e350 the battery dies and I have to jump it off when it’s cold. Do you think my glow plugs are bad ?
If the batteries are dead, I'd suggest starting with a pair of new batteries. Diesel engines need to crank over quickly to ingite the fuel in the cylinders, so you'll have a tough time starting it with weak or dying batteries.
@@diymechanictv1233 yeah that’s exactly what I did. Thank you. Haven’t had an issue since.
Fairy will explain how education I like it like it
Dam my truck sounds just like that an after 8 or 9 times it's starts so whats wrong? I put new relay a bigger one...
Would you believe, I have a low mileage 1997 F-250 7.3 and only lost 1 glow plug in 26 years. I just replaced the relay for the second time only today.
Our truck seems to have the gpr above the passenger wheel instead of on top of the engine. It's extremely confusing!
That's probably the starter relay unless someone has done a bunch of.... custom work.
there are 4 plugs. he checked the front 2 glow plugs. some may not understand need to check all glow plugs. again if i pull valve cover i put new plugs in. i know i am wasting money but just like knowing there new. i have a 1997 jacked up head studs air to air with chap in pcm 4" straight exhaust with exhaust brake. have 44" tires. its my baby. i use old plug on different plow & dump trucks i have
There are other videos on 7.3 glow plugs and that the 'Motorcraft" glow plugs from Amazon last only 6 months. The common dominator is that they were all bought on Amazon. I'm now curious of the price difference on Amazon "Motorcraft" vs dealer price on Motorcraft. I'm going with dealer Motorcraft regardless. Don't want to do this every 6 months.
Radio shack is still open?
Not around here, unfortunately...
i personally pay the dealer price. as he said maybe faulty part. dealer will warranty parts. also check different deal prices. they all seem to have different pricing. glow plugs are E-Z. you get in to cam fazers & chains you really need deal parts ONLY. this engine does not have chain fazer parts, im just saying you do get what you pay for
Don't use ether to start a diesel. Use wd40.
NO EITHER NO EITHER NO EITHER. A diesel engine will not fire on either it has to have fuel for either to work. so if its out of fuel it will not fire on either. & will posable deform glow plug making tip stick in cylinder. NO EITHER