10 years later this is still the best video ive found. No BS. Telling us all the tools and you even did ut with the car on jack stands. Doing this tomorrow morning on my 87. 👍
Pretty good instructions! I would caution the novice mechanics about several things done on this vid that are not good ideas: 1. Don't drop the lug nuts on your wheels when you remove them. I always remove and replace the lug nuts by hand, not with an impact wrench because I hate dings in my wheels. 2. Use an IMPACT socket with an impact wrench. The standard socket used here on the hub nut can split when used with an impact. 3. Don't use an extension pipe ON A RATCHET. The ratcheting mechanism is not designed to take the force, and you could easily break it. Use a sliding T or flex head instead...or get a bigger ratchet. 4. Don't use an impact wrench on a standard universal joint (extension); always use an IMPACT universal joint. The standard u-joint will not stand up to the impact very long. Other than those minor points, this is a great instructional video.
I've owned several C2/C3 Vettes, and the one thing I always hated was having to take them to the dealer for real wheel bearings. Now I'm looking at a '94, and yours was the first video I watched. How great to see that Chevy finally changed that awful design! Many thanks for posting this!
i just have to say thank you. im a 29 year old b tech and im doing an all around hub bearing job this weekend on a 87. so I thought id watch a video to make sure I got everything. you made me remember many thingsd like cotter pins, torque specs and the specific tools I needed. I would have forgotten my torque wrench, torque t55 socket and ujoint extension if it weasnt for you. thank u ver y much. awesome video. rock on
Good job very informative . I had regular socket explode using an impact gun on it . Pieces went through the radiator. The radiator repair guy looked at me and said “ your lucky it just went through the radiator “ , ! The radiator was in a freightliner $1100 to replace the core .
Fantastic video I hear you perfectly fine, I can never figure out where that clicking was coming from I really learned something today all my universal joints are good it must be coming from that Teflon seal needs to be greased, once in a blue moon I even hear it sometimes when I'm driving,thank you for the video
Fantastic Information!!!! Followed it and 100% awesome. I picked up the Mobil 1 grease and here in Canada cost me now $ 24.00 and change but worth it. Thanks for the video
Awesome vid Erichhh. I have the bad clicking sound in reverse and first. Do you know if the washer can be purchased on it's own as a replacement part. Thanks
I heard you say that the hub bolt torque was 166 ft lbs but that it has been changed to 200 ft lbs. Was that through a GM TSB or can you explain that further to us. Thanks
What kind of rear end do you have in the C4 im having an issue with my 1983 camaro and like a knocking binding sound comming from the rear end when im ( backing up ) in reverse and it only happens if its being turned a certain way depending on the angle the sound will be loud and harsher any suggestions
From the day I bought it in 1997 with 22,000 miles on it, there was a subtle "wuhwuhwuh" noise that came from the rear of the car that varied with speed. Every other C4 Corvette I had test-driven up to the point of buying mine made the same noise, so I thought it was a characteristic of the Eagle GS-C tires, which were original. But the noise persisted after replacing them with Firehawk SZ50 tires. The original bearings had no play, just that characteristic noise. I replaced one side and it became quiet on that side, which is when I realized that both were brinnelled - probably from when the car was rail-shipped from Bowling Green. If the train tracks had a lot of bad joints on the way to the destination, the impact-loading on the non-rotating wheel bearings of the cars being transported can push the balls in the bearing into the bearing races, making tiny dents in the races. From that point, the bearing will be noisy. It may never fail, it will just make that noise and slowly drive the owner crazy until they replace the bearings.
Totally fine, about 10k on it. The factory bearing was defective as-delivered from Bowling Green. When I bought the car used, it made a "wuhwuhwuh" noise that I initially thought was the GS-C tires, but it was still there when I replaced them. It was only after I replaced this bearing and put on a fresh set of tires that I realized how quiet and smooth the car can be.
@@johnsmithth3318 There was no play at all in the old bearing to indicate that it was bad, only the noise when driving. Sometimes wheel bearings get damaged during transit from the assembly plant, if the road/train track on the way to the dealer is very rough - since the bearings are being shock-loaded/vibrated without rotating, in a phenomenon known to bearing manufacturers as false brinelling.
This procedure will NOT work for an 84-89. First, the E-brake assembly is different. Second, I have exactly the same tools he is using and no bueno. It doesn't work for me as it did for him. I only had jack stand and trolley jacks to work with and I found a telescoping breaker bar from Harbor Freight to be the only tool that would give me enough leverage and even then it was challenging. The take away is, do NOT use an impact wrench. The chances of stripping out that T-55 is very high and then you'll be SOL. You really have to be sure that you are square on that bolt before you apply pressure to it.
10 years later this is still the best video ive found. No BS. Telling us all the tools and you even did ut with the car on jack stands. Doing this tomorrow morning on my 87. 👍
Pretty good instructions!
I would caution the novice mechanics about several things done on this vid that are not good ideas:
1. Don't drop the lug nuts on your wheels when you remove them. I always remove and replace the lug nuts by hand, not with an impact wrench because I hate dings in my wheels.
2. Use an IMPACT socket with an impact wrench. The standard socket used here on the hub nut can split when used with an impact.
3. Don't use an extension pipe ON A RATCHET. The ratcheting mechanism is not designed to take the force, and you could easily break it. Use a sliding T or flex head instead...or get a bigger ratchet.
4. Don't use an impact wrench on a standard universal joint (extension); always use an IMPACT universal joint. The standard u-joint will not stand up to the impact very long.
Other than those minor points, this is a great instructional video.
I've owned several C2/C3 Vettes, and the one thing I always hated was having to take them to the dealer for real wheel bearings. Now I'm looking at a '94, and yours was the first video I watched. How great to see that Chevy finally changed that awful design! Many thanks for posting this!
Thank you for this great detailed video .
I'll be changing the wheel hubs on my ' 90 Convertible.
I love how quality C4 repair videos and guides are. Thank you Sir!
i just have to say thank you. im a 29 year old b tech and im doing an all around hub bearing job this weekend on a 87. so I thought id watch a video to make sure I got everything. you made me remember many thingsd like cotter pins, torque specs and the specific tools I needed. I would have forgotten my torque wrench, torque t55 socket and ujoint extension if it weasnt for you. thank u ver y much. awesome video. rock on
Thank you,Makes the job so easy,along with the sizes,tools and psi
Good job very informative . I had regular socket explode using an impact gun on it . Pieces went through the radiator. The radiator repair guy looked at me and said “ your lucky it just went through the radiator “ , ! The radiator was in a freightliner $1100 to replace the core .
Fantastic video I hear you perfectly fine, I can never figure out where that clicking was coming from I really learned something today all my universal joints are good it must be coming from that Teflon seal needs to be greased, once in a blue moon I even hear it sometimes when I'm driving,thank you for the video
Very cool....ive.done the front on my.85....now im on the rear!!! Thanks
thank you, just made this alot more approachable for me and explanations and tips were really appreciated 👍
Fantastic Information!!!! Followed it and 100% awesome. I picked up the Mobil 1 grease and here in Canada cost me now $ 24.00 and change but worth it. Thanks for the video
very nicely done, thank you!
Awesome vid Erichhh. I have the bad clicking sound in reverse and first. Do you know if the washer can be purchased on it's own as a replacement part. Thanks
You can just disassemble it and grease the washer, no need to replace it.
I heard you say that the hub bolt torque was 166 ft lbs but that it has been changed to 200 ft lbs. Was that through a GM TSB or can you explain that further to us. Thanks
Great vid. Although I could barely hear you speak. Thanks!
What kind of rear end do you have in the C4 im having an issue with my 1983 camaro and like a knocking binding sound comming from the rear end when im ( backing up ) in reverse and it only happens if its being turned a certain way depending on the angle the sound will be loud and harsher any suggestions
Before removing what made you think it had to be replaced?
My c4 has a shimmy in the rear at 50mpg going up a hill,you think that can be the cause?
From the day I bought it in 1997 with 22,000 miles on it, there was a subtle "wuhwuhwuh" noise that came from the rear of the car that varied with speed. Every other C4 Corvette I had test-driven up to the point of buying mine made the same noise, so I thought it was a characteristic of the Eagle GS-C tires, which were original. But the noise persisted after replacing them with Firehawk SZ50 tires. The original bearings had no play, just that characteristic noise. I replaced one side and it became quiet on that side, which is when I realized that both were brinnelled - probably from when the car was rail-shipped from Bowling Green. If the train tracks had a lot of bad joints on the way to the destination, the impact-loading on the non-rotating wheel bearings of the cars being transported can push the balls in the bearing into the bearing races, making tiny dents in the races. From that point, the bearing will be noisy. It may never fail, it will just make that noise and slowly drive the owner crazy until they replace the bearings.
Great video. Saved me much grief.
Did you do this job in your pajamas?! lol Excellent vid.
Thanks, great help!
How do you remove the e brake stuff? Or does it come off with the calliper
It comes off with the caliper.
Isn't that huge axle nut a torque-to-yield type. If so, I thought they could be torqued only once, then replace.
Nope, it's a standard nut. There is no such thing as a TTY nut.
What is up with the veritcal camera recording?
Does it have a parking brake shoe Assembly on the vette
No, the parking brake mechanism is in the caliper - a mechanical lever pushes on the caliper piston.
@@Erichhh Not on the 85'it definitely has a parking brake assembly!!! Bad advice!
@@paulhenk8186 Whoops, 84-87 had a drum-style parking brake, 1988-up did away with that in favor of the lever-style.
great vid, make one for rear spring removel and trans LOL
Did all that and didn't replace the wheel seal???🤔
What wheel seal? It's a sealed bearing.
@@Erichhh There's another wheel seal from GM that seals out dirt, moisture!!!
@@geneyus6411 www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-general-discussion/1969757-rear-wheel-bearing-hub-1993-3-16-08-a.html
Great video!!
how has this bearing held up? how many miles have/did you put on it?
Totally fine, about 10k on it. The factory bearing was defective as-delivered from Bowling Green. When I bought the car used, it made a "wuhwuhwuh" noise that I initially thought was the GS-C tires, but it was still there when I replaced them. It was only after I replaced this bearing and put on a fresh set of tires that I realized how quiet and smooth the car can be.
@@Erichhh yeah I was wondering what the symptoms were
@@johnsmithth3318 There was no play at all in the old bearing to indicate that it was bad, only the noise when driving. Sometimes wheel bearings get damaged during transit from the assembly plant, if the road/train track on the way to the dealer is very rough - since the bearings are being shock-loaded/vibrated without rotating, in a phenomenon known to bearing manufacturers as false brinelling.
Any thought on the brand of wheel bearing? Some are junk.
This procedure will NOT work for an 84-89. First, the E-brake assembly is different. Second, I have exactly the same tools he is using and no bueno. It doesn't work for me as it did for him. I only had jack stand and trolley jacks to work with and I found a telescoping breaker bar from Harbor Freight to be the only tool that would give me enough leverage and even then it was challenging. The take away is, do NOT use an impact wrench. The chances of stripping out that T-55 is very high and then you'll be SOL. You really have to be sure that you are square on that bolt before you apply pressure to it.
Oli