@@janockosgarage did you recently just come out with it? I was looking for one two years ago could not find so I had to buy the blank plate and drill my own holes. So it would fit the firewall.
@janockosgarage you're adapter plate definitely would have made my life easier. I don't understand why LT went with the hydro boost from the Cadillac when the hydro boost from an Astro van would fit better it has a smaller expansion tank instead of that super long tank that the Cadillac has.
This was my first thought as well, but I do not believe he will be able to attach those fittings to the heater core in a removed state and then be able to reinstall it nor can he solder them with the core in the truck so I believe that’s why he has no choice but to use epoxy.
This video turned into a snow job. LOL I also appreciate the attention to detail with making it look as COPO as possible. Don't apologize for the "short" video. It was still great!
The epoxy and 90 degree fittings are a good idea, but I would be worried about the epoxy failing. I still think two 90 degree metal SharkBite fittings for the heater core and slide them on the pipe would be better because they will have a much stronger mechanical bond. Also much easier to install as well as change in the future. Keep up the great work! Loving the content!
@@edlebrock3501 I would use the Low temp aluminum-zinc brazing rods to put the copper 90°fittings on. They would stick to the aluminum and copper very well. I've used these rods to patch a crack in my aluminum radiator that was two years ago still holding. I thought it would be a quick fix it's still not leaking.
@@aslacker it'll work. I've used JB Weld to seal a brass fitting into an aluminum water pump when the threads got jacked, worked like a charm. A cooling system is less than 20lbs, depending on what cap is used so the pressure is nowhere close to what JB Weld will hold.
I honestly haven’t watched truck tech in years, same with the other shows, they go through so many different show hosts, it’s hard to keep up. PS, love the Ace Ventura reference.
Do you have a part number? I'm looking at one of Rockauto (part number CARDON 527353) and its tilted toward the ground. It appears to be for a firewall that has a slope. I'm building a 94 S10 LS swap and the cam shaft is going to be very large and I'm concerned about the vacuum.
Almost forgot... Grab a pressure gauge/tester, and see what your PS pump is putting out. If it's not 1400psi, then get a different valve for it! Most only do 11-1200, but if you've got hydroboost and PS, you want the higher pressure.
A lot of people miss this one small step. You need the increased flow to run the booster and steering gear at the same time. I even think the spring pressure may be different. It’s just as easy as going to the junkyard and pulling the correct valve and spring. My s10 hydroboost works perfectly. I even reused the lines from the Tahoe I snagged to booster from. If something breaks, I can replace it with a factory part.
Love the content LT!!! the Wilton receiver mount vice has gotten a LOT of miles on your channel.... would be awesome to see them Hook ya up with a MEGA size shop Vice! Cant wait to see the new age syclone RIP!
I applaud the JB Weld work around with the heater core issue. I hope to see this done. Not that I doubt it will work rather I know it will. For many years in the automotive machining industry we would encounter items like aluminum front covers and aluminum intake manifolds that had corrosion on them that were allowing various coolant leaks. Obviously welding was the preferred method of repair but it was cost prohibitive to most and getting someone to tig weld at that moment in time was not always easy. JB Weld to the rescue. I was doubtful of the “patch” job and admit that I frowned upon it. It’s just that I witnessed it not only work but work extremely well. Electrolysis was a major issue in those times. Coolant work arounds and overall lack of understanding made the tig weld repairs prone to repeated failures. Conversely the JB Weld repairs solved further erosion problems. It actually became the preferred method in many situations.
23:12 awesome find. Swap the heater core. Then weld a flush bung run a small internal line set, then use a thru plate for a permanent set up with the supercharger.
Gotta love lousy weather, I'm glad I live in Az where we don't get any snow. I've been through Colorado Springs 3 times in the last year and the weather was always good (never there in the winter).
On my big block El Camino, I flipped the hydro boost unit 180 degrees and mounted the master cylinder the right way up. Gave me more clearance for the engine and works great.
Tip Put some thread locker or superglue around the rivnut before inserting it into the panel. The reason for this is to seal the metal against rust and to help prevent the insert from spinning.
You should be able to solder those fitting on to your heater core, i believe. It would be a much more durable connection versus jb weld. The build is bad to the bone, though, and im more of a toyota fan myself, but my first truck i ever bought was an s10, so they have a special place in my heart.
There are push on Shark Bite water fittings that might work for the cabin heater. I don't know if they can handle engine temperatures but they can handle home hot water. If you coat the pipe with JB weld before pushing on the fitting that may solve any temperature issues
LT before you JB weld Search for some copper compression fitting that I know as B Press compression fitting that you can use a O-ring that gets machine compressed onto the existing pipe ! Plumbers use them
My $0.02. Use the smaller truck intake and the stock core. All those elbows your going to add may make it difficult or impossible to fish through the firewall if\when the core fails in the future.
I have a engine out of the 03 envoy LM4 this is the same engine that came in Trailblazer, Izzu and Acender it does not have that intake. Enjoying this build. I have a 02 blazer extreme with the alunimum block LM4 wish there was a way to put that 3 link in a blazer.
The CTS-V fuel filter will fit the S10 stock fuel fittings it will bolt right on. And it does the same as the Corvette fuel filter. AC Delco Parts GF897 or GM 25763176
The LSA Super charger is cool, but I really like the idea of a centrifugal supercharger since it has the linear power curve. Either way its going to be aweaome to see this thing starting up and moving under its own power again! Love the build so far, really liking the wheels you picked out every time I see them.
I'm curious as to wether or not you're going to use a surge tank between the heater core and the water pump. Running the hoses directly from the water pump to the heater core makes for an oven in the cab with any LS in an S10. I know it's cold up there, but you'll still have to turn the heat down after five minutes. You will want to bypass it in the summer as well, that much coolant running through the heater core will cook your dash...
Remember doing this next time you have to replace Land Rover discovery 1 heater cores… I did it years ago and it saves taking the dash out them, epoxied them to join them…. Never had one come back
Don't Half Ass the heatercore with JB Weld Solder it All you have to Do is get it hot and Clean it use Flux.. that JB Crap wont hold with the Expansion there it will come apart.. Solder will Hold perfectly use a 200watt soldering Iron i have one i could do it with! Set the Elbows where you want it mark them take it lose from the heatercore solder the two Elbows together reconnect it to the heater core after movable and solder it directly to the Aluminum, done solid and forever..
I understood that intake was a bit of a unicorn. Google performancetrucks ssr 90mm intake should turn up a forum topic on the intake. The Gen3 fuel rail is close but not exact, so do your research. Also a LS2 Dorman shares some parts with a FAST90 and thus especially with some porting gets much of the gains on the FAST90.
Right up until your fan belt comes off and then you have less than no brakes I drove all the way home from the racetrack and my power steering pump went out and had no brakes thank God I had the trailer on cuz I drove 100 miles trailer brake alone
I think a centrifugal supercharger would be the way to go, it's already a tight fit, turbo piping would be really cramped. A procharger would be amazing but I know they're costly.
@IPlayToBag I just think turbo would be cool because the original was turbocharged. As I use them currently, if I was building this, I'd use one of Comp's "oil-less" turbos, even though they're not oil-less they're just divorced from the engines oil system. One of the cool things about this is that you no longer have to use a gravity feed for the oil return so you can orient the turbo however you see fit which helps immensely with packaging. Plus a pro charger to me has no real upsides. It still has to spool because of the gearing in em & they take power to make power like all other blowers. Especially with technology like twin-scroll turbos & how advanced engine management has become, with a V8, a properly sized snail will have very little if any turbo lag.
Was the Trailblazer SS heater core different? How did GM solve the clearance issue? Be careful to support the hoses running to the core if you do go with the copper fittings. The vibration could cause them to work harden and crack. I'm a little disappointed you didn't find aluminum fittings that could be welded on. Anyway, keep up the great content. That narrow V8 intake and the hydroboost adapter plate were great info.
Call it what it is. Syclone's came with 4.3's. There is absolutely no reason this truck should be getting a V8 swap. You were supposed to keep the 4.3 or LV1/LV3 swap. Nice average LS swapped S10 too. There's a dozen in my town. Cool.
Why not solder the pipe fittings to the heater core considering it's also copper that way u ensure that you won't have a massive coolant leak at the firewall after everything is together and then you have to tear it all back down to fix a leak if the jb weld doesn't hold against the heat from the coolant or just simply fails cause it's been known to fail in crazy applications or at least it has for me and maybe I'm not doing something right when I mix it or apply it but I feel like soldering those fittings is the best way to go on that deal but it's just my opinion and their like u know what's so maybe I'm totally wrong idk
That trailblazer intake is the real solution, especially since the goal is to replace it with a supercharger. As others have said, aluminum to copper is a bad idea. For the flex fuel sensor, just run it on the return line. That works unless you have a massively oversized fuel pump.
I have the same issues with FEDEX, OVERNIGHT GOT SENT GROUND, PAID SHIPPING FOR OVERNIGHT DELIVERY, eleven days ago, when I checked tracking it's taken a road trip all over the USA, now it is stuck in Colorado, join me in a law suit, for lost wages, and money.
Appreciate your purchase! I made that hydroboost adapter.
Nice work.
@@janockosgarage did you recently just come out with it? I was looking for one two years ago could not find so I had to buy the blank plate and drill my own holes. So it would fit the firewall.
@70sAirForceBrat making them for maybe a little over a year. Fairly recently.
@janockosgarage you're adapter plate definitely would have made my life easier. I don't understand why LT went with the hydro boost from the Cadillac when the hydro boost from an Astro van would fit better it has a smaller expansion tank instead of that super long tank that the Cadillac has.
You seem to be out of stock! It appears they got popular real quick!
Pull the heater core and braze/solder those fittings on. No compromises my man!
Yep, see if you can find some lead based solder to keep the melting temps down.
I just commented the same thing, and I agree 100 percent with ya
Sweating those fittings is 100% the way to go. Epoxy is messy and prone to failure.
This was my first thought as well, but I do not believe he will be able to attach those fittings to the heater core in a removed state and then be able to reinstall it nor can he solder them with the core in the truck so I believe that’s why he has no choice but to use epoxy.
@@jasonbacues2999 with a lead based solder it is possible. It melts at a much lower temperature than typical
Plumbing solder.
This video turned into a snow job. LOL
I also appreciate the attention to detail with making it look as COPO as possible.
Don't apologize for the "short" video. It was still great!
The epoxy and 90 degree fittings are a good idea, but I would be worried about the epoxy failing. I still think two 90 degree metal SharkBite fittings for the heater core and slide them on the pipe would be better because they will have a much stronger mechanical bond. Also much easier to install as well as change in the future. Keep up the great work! Loving the content!
@@edlebrock3501 I would use the Low temp aluminum-zinc brazing rods to put the copper 90°fittings on. They would stick to the aluminum and copper very well. I've used these rods to patch a crack in my aluminum radiator that was two years ago still holding. I thought it would be a quick fix it's still not leaking.
The 5.3 in the GMT 360/370 also came in the GMC Envoy Denali, Buick Rainier V8, and Saab 9-7X 5.3i.
Loving the progress, no way in the world I would jeopardize my motor with jb weld from copper to aluminum.
No kidding, so much for future proofing things!
I was thinking that's not gonna work too!
@@aslacker it'll work. I've used JB Weld to seal a brass fitting into an aluminum water pump when the threads got jacked, worked like a charm. A cooling system is less than 20lbs, depending on what cap is used so the pressure is nowhere close to what JB Weld will hold.
@lowbudgetbob1155 a threaded fitting I could see. A lot more to hold on with.
I honestly haven’t watched truck tech in years, same with the other shows, they go through so many different show hosts, it’s hard to keep up.
PS, love the Ace Ventura reference.
But they still have Pat Topolino building engines and Tommy Boshers doing the body work.
Just an fyi LT, my s10 hydro boost came from an early model Astro and was a direct fit!
Do you have a part number? I'm looking at one of Rockauto (part number CARDON 527353) and its tilted toward the ground. It appears to be for a firewall that has a slope. I'm building a 94 S10 LS swap and the cam shaft is going to be very large and I'm concerned about the vacuum.
I think I found it. Please confirm CARDON 527333 is the one you are talking about. Thanks.
Almost forgot... Grab a pressure gauge/tester, and see what your PS pump is putting out. If it's not 1400psi, then get a different valve for it! Most only do 11-1200, but if you've got hydroboost and PS, you want the higher pressure.
He can drill out the one he has? The difference is just a slightly larger pin hole in the plunger.
A lot of people miss this one small step. You need the increased flow to run the booster and steering gear at the same time. I even think the spring pressure may be different. It’s just as easy as going to the junkyard and pulling the correct valve and spring. My s10 hydroboost works perfectly. I even reused the lines from the Tahoe I snagged to booster from. If something breaks, I can replace it with a factory part.
Love the content LT!!! the Wilton receiver mount vice has gotten a LOT of miles on your channel.... would be awesome to see them Hook ya up with a MEGA size shop Vice! Cant wait to see the new age syclone RIP!
I applaud the JB Weld work around with the heater core issue. I hope to see this done. Not that I doubt it will work rather I know it will.
For many years in the automotive machining industry we would encounter items like aluminum front covers and aluminum intake manifolds that had corrosion on them that were allowing various coolant leaks.
Obviously welding was the preferred method of repair but it was cost prohibitive to most and getting someone to tig weld at that moment in time was not always easy.
JB Weld to the rescue. I was doubtful of the “patch” job and admit that I frowned upon it.
It’s just that I witnessed it not only work but work extremely well.
Electrolysis was a major issue in those times. Coolant work arounds and overall lack of understanding made the tig weld repairs prone to repeated failures.
Conversely the JB Weld repairs solved further erosion problems. It actually became the preferred method in many situations.
23:12 awesome find. Swap the heater core. Then weld a flush bung run a small internal line set, then use a thru plate for a permanent set up with the supercharger.
I liked the Unboxing cameo you cut into this video! Definitely do it more
Gotta love lousy weather, I'm glad I live in Az where we don't get any snow. I've been through Colorado Springs 3 times in the last year and the weather was always good (never there in the winter).
Appreciate the tutorial, very good presentation 👍🏻
On my big block El Camino, I flipped the hydro boost unit 180 degrees and mounted the master cylinder the right way up. Gave me more clearance for the engine and works great.
Excellent, LT!
I appreciate your expertise. Thanks for making these videos
Tip
Put some thread locker or superglue around the rivnut before inserting it into the panel.
The reason for this is to seal the metal against rust and to help prevent the insert from spinning.
Woot!.. Good to see ya LT!
LT - if you ever find someone that can help you with that whole "its gotta looks just so" - let me know. We can both go for visits. :D
You should use the xtreme body kit to fit the vibe of the syclone
I've tried to find a few, but they are hard to come by.
@@LawrenceTolmantrust me, I know... I'm sitting on a Blazer set, for what I would love to be a very similar AWD boosted Gen 2 Typhoon.
98 Chevy Malibu brake booster also clears the coil and bolts in the S trucks.
Thank you you just answered my problem on space in that area you're amazing
The s10 is coming along nicely LT.
The Home Depot fix with the TBSS TB is the best looking option. DO IT!
I think if you cut after the 90 and put the flare pointing down will gain you some space to use a 90 fitting for easy install on the fuel hose.
The narrow truck intake is from the L59 engine.
Residential HVAC units use epoxy glue to glue together from aluminum to copper on the coils. Just use the correct epoxy
Yep that's the 5.3 trail blazer intake. I have one on my lq9 that I put in my 67 impala
Heck yeah!
You should be able to solder those fitting on to your heater core, i believe. It would be a much more durable connection versus jb weld. The build is bad to the bone, though, and im more of a toyota fan myself, but my first truck i ever bought was an s10, so they have a special place in my heart.
Well now I have a movie to go watch lol thanks.
I think those elbows will do just fine. Snow is a good time but man it can screw up shipping.
Compression fittings for heater core. Be a nice braided line as well.
There are push on Shark Bite water fittings that might work for the cabin heater.
I don't know if they can handle engine temperatures but they can handle home hot water.
If you coat the pipe with JB weld before pushing on the fitting that may solve any temperature issues
LT before you JB weld
Search for some copper compression fitting that I know as B Press compression fitting that you can use a O-ring that gets machine compressed onto the existing pipe ! Plumbers use them
Braze the copper pipes together and to the heater core lines. You will have to pull heater core for it.
I think the lsa option is the best when I think of a cyclone I'm thinking oem something you could drive anywhere not too loud a real street able truck
My $0.02. Use the smaller truck intake and the stock core. All those elbows your going to add may make it difficult or impossible to fish through the firewall if\when the core fails in the future.
The high flow is neat but if you juat mount it on the return then you are good
OEM+ brother that’s all.
I'm not sure, but you don't want to put copper and aluminum together . The copper will eat up the aluminum or something
Galvanic corrosion
I have a engine out of the 03 envoy LM4 this is the same engine that came in Trailblazer, Izzu and Acender it does not have that intake. Enjoying this build. I have a 02 blazer extreme with the alunimum block LM4 wish there was a way to put that 3 link in a blazer.
The CTS-V fuel filter will fit the S10 stock fuel fittings it will bolt right on. And it does the same as the Corvette fuel filter. AC Delco Parts GF897 or GM 25763176
What year CTS-V?
@b3inc758 AC Delco Parts GF897 or GM 25763176.
I love how ocd you are, but I would lose my mind if I was you haha very great quality work and work ethic
The LSA Super charger is cool, but I really like the idea of a centrifugal supercharger since it has the linear power curve. Either way its going to be aweaome to see this thing starting up and moving under its own power again! Love the build so far, really liking the wheels you picked out every time I see them.
You should be able to solder those copper 90’s to the heater ore
I'm curious as to wether or not you're going to use a surge tank between the heater core and the water pump. Running the hoses directly from the water pump to the heater core makes for an oven in the cab with any LS in an S10. I know it's cold up there, but you'll still have to turn the heat down after five minutes.
You will want to bypass it in the summer as well, that much coolant running through the heater core will cook your dash...
Remember doing this next time you have to replace Land Rover discovery 1 heater cores… I did it years ago and it saves taking the dash out them, epoxied them to join them…. Never had one come back
LT… I’ve been wanting to have a vise like that so I can move it from my garage to my tractor and or truck. You build it or buy it?
I got that riv-nut kit
Hydroboost rules! 😎
11:28 could have installed the hydroboost 180° and run the Iines downward. It puts the charge can on the other side for more space.
Don't Half Ass the heatercore with JB Weld Solder it All you have to Do is get it hot and Clean it use Flux.. that JB Crap wont hold with the Expansion there it will come apart.. Solder will Hold perfectly use a 200watt soldering Iron i have one i could do it with! Set the Elbows where you want it mark them take it lose from the heatercore solder the two Elbows together reconnect it to the heater core after movable and solder it directly to the Aluminum, done solid and forever..
Your main problem is your turbo encabulator.
I understood that intake was a bit of a unicorn. Google performancetrucks ssr 90mm intake should turn up a forum topic on the intake. The Gen3 fuel rail is close but not exact, so do your research. Also a LS2 Dorman shares some parts with a FAST90 and thus especially with some porting gets much of the gains on the FAST90.
Brother, love the build, but a Syclone build needs twin turbos!!!
LSA/LS9 valve covers with integrated ignition coil mounting is an option.
I bought a set actually, but they didn’t fit. The tall mounting studs would interfere with the hvac side cover
Right up until your fan belt comes off and then you have less than no brakes I drove all the way home from the racetrack and my power steering pump went out and had no brakes thank God I had the trailer on cuz I drove 100 miles trailer brake alone
They have a backup electric pump if the power steering pump fails or doesn'tmake adequate pressure. Obviously, there is a chance they both fail...
Don’t jb weld, you can solder copper to aluminum. Less chance for leaks and would hold better once the system is pressurized.
I still know that you can get all the space you need is with vintage air system.
In the spirit of a Syclone I really think it would be cooler if you went with a turbo LS.
Build your own.
@t.l.robinson2162 I've got too many projects as it is lol.
I think a centrifugal supercharger would be the way to go, it's already a tight fit, turbo piping would be really cramped. A procharger would be amazing but I know they're costly.
@IPlayToBag I just think turbo would be cool because the original was turbocharged. As I use them currently, if I was building this, I'd use one of Comp's "oil-less" turbos, even though they're not oil-less they're just divorced from the engines oil system. One of the cool things about this is that you no longer have to use a gravity feed for the oil return so you can orient the turbo however you see fit which helps immensely with packaging. Plus a pro charger to me has no real upsides. It still has to spool because of the gearing in em & they take power to make power like all other blowers. Especially with technology like twin-scroll turbos & how advanced engine management has become, with a V8, a properly sized snail will have very little if any turbo lag.
I'd love to see y'all do a Chevy Colorado and make a race truck out of it
You're lucky- I haven't had good luck with ANY mail carriers... All 3 are terrible for me.
What are you going to do about the diff on the front on the driver side I’m sure it’s close to the oil filter or the exhaust dump
had to build a custom oil pan, you can check it out a few episodes back. plenty of room now
Not worried about galvanic corrosion by mixing copper and aluminum?
make sure you use high temp solder🙂
Like AH GLOVE IS CRAZY WORK LOL
Was the Trailblazer SS heater core different? How did GM solve the clearance issue? Be careful to support the hoses running to the core if you do go with the copper fittings. The vibration could cause them to work harden and crack. I'm a little disappointed you didn't find aluminum fittings that could be welded on. Anyway, keep up the great content. That narrow V8 intake and the hydroboost adapter plate were great info.
I’m think on the trailblazer the heater core was in a different place on the firewall compared to the S-10
77 👍's up LT thank you for sharing 🤗
If those copper fittings fit ya pipe then a shark bite fitting will fit and be less prone to leakage than epoxy...
👍
Ricky Bobby!
Call it what it is. Syclone's came with 4.3's. There is absolutely no reason this truck should be getting a V8 swap. You were supposed to keep the 4.3 or LV1/LV3 swap. Nice average LS swapped S10 too. There's a dozen in my town. Cool.
try and find a aluminum solution for the heater core 90* unions, copper and aluminum have high galvanic corrosion potential.
Compression fittings?!
don’t you have a Home Depot or Lowe’s in town? Either have plenty plumbing parts!
Why not run the flex fuel sensor in the return line? No need to worry about any flow restrictions.
Why not solder the pipe fittings to the heater core considering it's also copper that way u ensure that you won't have a massive coolant leak at the firewall after everything is together and then you have to tear it all back down to fix a leak if the jb weld doesn't hold against the heat from the coolant or just simply fails cause it's been known to fail in crazy applications or at least it has for me and maybe I'm not doing something right when I mix it or apply it but I feel like soldering those fittings is the best way to go on that deal but it's just my opinion and their like u know what's so maybe I'm totally wrong idk
Dont use jb weld on that joint just solder the heater core is what aluminum you van can solder aluminum to copper its easy
Are those coil a direct replacement? Same wiring and no change in the ECU?
Thks for the video where do i buy the adapter for hdya vk
Are you going to get some Syclone badges for it?
Can you put the part number for the SS intake please.
Gen 3.5
Hydro boost ain't no upgrade buddy
What do you dislike about hydro boost. Just wondering
Yeah it is. Specially on low vacuum engines. Look at most of today’s vehicles mostly hydro.
That trailblazer intake is the real solution, especially since the goal is to replace it with a supercharger.
As others have said, aluminum to copper is a bad idea.
For the flex fuel sensor, just run it on the return line. That works unless you have a massively oversized fuel pump.
If you run the LSA/LS3 front accessories, will you still need to recess the radiator into the core support? I've heard there's a way to avoid it.
I hope not. But we’ll find out shortly
Does that other intake flow as much as the SS intake? Or does not matter since the supercharger is coming soon?
I have the same issues with FEDEX, OVERNIGHT GOT SENT GROUND, PAID SHIPPING FOR OVERNIGHT DELIVERY, eleven days ago, when I checked tracking it's taken a road trip all over the USA, now it is stuck in Colorado, join me in a law suit, for lost wages, and money.
sharkbite fittings ?
I have seen some Astro vans with hydroboost. I wonder if it would be a bolt in for the s10 rather then the adapter.
I have heard that they will bolt up, but can't confirm
I realize you're doing what you can, but would a Trailblazer SS heater core work in the dash and connect properly?
fuck you do clean work. good job!
stop beating yourself up man you do good, clean, efficient work.
Why not run bigger fuel lines now at least up to the sensor?
The ss intake what year please
What’s going on with the obs in there
I need to upgrade my K10 to hydro boost . Not enough vacuum with my 383 stroker underhood 🤬👎.
Is the V6 rad big enough to cool the V8????
Why not Just use solder, or the pex crusher?