One thing I have learned from watching multiple videos about correctly installing a drip edge. There is absolutely no consistency in the industry from one contractor to another.
Biggest debate seems to be if you put the drip edge under or over the underlayment. I honestly got tired of debating and decided to run a course along the edge. Put the drip edge down and then run the full underlayment all the way up on top of it. Side courses everyone does on top
Yep. At least on TH-cam. I am not a contractor or a construction guy I’m a DIY guy. But I think if you look up code it will show exactly how it’s supposed to be down in your area.
Who makes that drip edge? All the stuff I can find at my local big box stores have only about 2 inches of material up on the roof for attachment. The drip edge shown in this video appears to have 4+ inches on the roof where it's nailed.
He makes the "starter course of shingle/strip" stick out 1/2 so it does not wet the metal and roll in. to the fascia. However it might be too easy to break (brittle) and I believe it is not necessary now that the metal final edge is fully inside the gutters.
It shouldn’t have anything ever come in contact that could break the edge. I’d prefer it dripping over than onto the metal and could possibly wick back under the shingles and in a lot of cases behind gutters.
Did the same on my wall to roof but used Tyvek Protec 200 ran 2 feet up the wall. Then wrapped the wall. Where we live we get no snow. Then I made step flashing out of aluminum 3.5" legs and 8" long cut from 14" trim coil. worked out fine. I also used some Dynaflex 230 black caulk anywhere that seemed it needed some. My house built in 1973 has aluminum siding and no J channel along the edge, which I like the look. I replaced the exterior sheet rock with 1/2" plywood.
Underlayment is above or below drip edge??? I keep seeing different techniques. Also people saying it depends on your State. Which is the better method regardless of which State you're in?
As always I am glad I came here for infomration. I saw another video about drip edge and thought it was the right way but I can see now it was not. I just purcahsed a farm taht has a 1890 farm house with tenants who have been there 19 years. I need to catch up on some maintenance the old farmer had let lapse, So the roof on the porch and part of it was enclosed and is part of the livable space now. I suspect I will be opening up a can of worms when I start getting into it.
Ice shield First. Then drip. Ice shield should be installed 3" down over the gutter board. You can install a 6" strip of ice shield over the drip. Then install underlayment over all so shingles don't stick.
@@larrycrookshanks9091 Is the "underlayment" you speak of the membrane layer he refers to at the very beginning of the video? So instead of that being first, you're saying an ice shield, which he doesn't seem to utilize at all, should be installed 2-3" from edge of roof down over the fascia board and up to a not specified point onto the roof (several feet? halfway? the whole roof?). Then the drip shield, then ANOTHER ice shield layer over the drip shield, then the membrane sheet over all of that? If it works it works, but that seems like an excessive amount of layers that'll raise the shingles off of the roof by a lot.
I was told that the bottom drip edge should have the waterproof membrane placed on TOP of the drip edge. The sides and top should have the membrane UNDER the flashing… which is correct??
With all do respect, where i live 9 times out of 10 there is an aluminum fascia covering the fascia board. Therefore worrying about the water rotting the board is not an issue and the water drips off the bottom of the aluminum fascia. The aluminum fascia even has a protective design to stop against water wicking around and causing problems. Thereforw i choose to install the shingles flush with the drip edge to reduce the risk of ice in the gutter or wind lifting or breaking the bottom of the bottom coarse
I am installing new step flashing but the one nail he used was on the wall and I have an existing finished wall and my only nail able area is the roof. If I nail thru the shingle adhesive area into the step flashing, will that work?
I see your drip edge has alot of nailing surface.. what im seeing at my local supply store only has 2" nailing surface.. where would i find the drip edge you are using in your video ?
@@corysturgis6660 i was told my area doesn't reqire the wide drip edge so they only stock the 2 5/8 wide material... I did install a roll of ice barrier, so I feel pretty confident it'll stay dry. Thank you for your response
Leaving a finger width on the drip edge would fail inspection in Florida. Besides, that's rake edge flashing. Eve end is longer going down. Guttering keeps water off the facia.
That drip edge gap.....hmm. My fascia board also has a 1x2 nailed to it, under the drip edge. It's an old roof, maybe something that's not done anymore. But it seems to help protect the fascia better (kinda like a double fascia in that area).
Agree! We should have 1" x 2" behind the drip-edge. They installed it in 1983 on my house. If the drip-edge bend out further, rain will flush away from fascia further. I installed a wider piece metal at the end of valley, the rain flush away further.
Same, got house built in 1973, on top the rake fascia is a 1x2 at the top. I like the look of it. I am shingling now but not going to do a rake metal drip edge, don't see the need. I replaced all my fascia with GC PT 1x6's, and painted both sides of those boards. Ground contact PT wont rot, and it does hold paint just fine. Now at the eaves, it is just 1x6, but I plan to put on aluminum drip edge, to me it seems useful as the way my house is made, there is a gap at the bottom edge of the plywood where it meets the fascia and a drip edge will seal that better. Plus it may improve the lifespan of the shingle edge. I also will have to paint the new drip edge to match the color. of the fascia boards, not a big deal but paint it before it goes up is easier.
The biggest issue I see on new homes is they install the drip edge flush to the fascia and leave no room for guttering to slide under the backside of the drip edge. So they just install gutters over top of the drip edge
How much room should be left between the drip edge and the facia to accommodate the gutters? This was a finger width, which seems like an awful lot of room to allow wind driven rain to get up behind and under the drip edge and shingles.
@@rigidinspections That's what I figured, but this guy puts a gap that seems ridiculously large that provides a lot of room for driving rain to get up underneath.
I agree with Tommy on this one. On my house, with aluminum fascia covering the wood, the drip edge was up against the fascia and water would run down the fascia and behind the gutter all along the roof. The gutter was useless in a light rain.
I’ve seen mixed videos in which a drip edge is applied to the pitch edge of the roof and some don’t. What’s your thoughts? I’m replacing my drip edge in the next 72 hours as I’ve discovered the old drip edge has gaps and allowed a significant leak and damage to accumulate around some window frames.
If you put a finger space in your drip edge then you go back with a fascia cover what holds the cover normally the drip edge holds the aluminum fascia cover.
I now have to figure out how to fix my new roof because the roofers didn’t nail down the drip edge good enough so it’s humped up in places and not overlapping the gutters. And they ran the shingles flush or not even covering in some places. Makes me wonder how many roofs are done incorrectly because these people had years of experience and were doing it this way.
Mr Silva I am not an expert like you but my method would be drip edge the ice and water on top right to the edge of the drip edge and then starter strip hanging over the drip edge about a 1/4 inch and shingles inline with the starter strip...
Tom is very close on his install. Correct installation is Ice shield down over gutter board 2-3" then drip edge. No other way. Then install a 6" strip of ice shield over the drip on to the existing ice shield. Then install starter and shingles 1/2"-3/4" past the drip edge. Tom is absolutely correct on that as the water will wick back to the gutter board and down behind the gutter.
Ice shield obviously seems like a good idea, but when you reroof, does it come off easily or does it adhere to the plywood/OSB so well that it comes up in chunks or damages the plywood/OSB?
Someone please explain to me why the underlayment is UNDER the drip edge here. If water breaches the shingles and rolls down the underlayment to the top edge of that drip edge, I doubt that nailed drip edge is going to do much to prevent some water from going under. I’m thinking rotted decking and rotted rafter tails. What am I missing? Thanks.
USING DRIP EDGE TO STOP RODENTS GETTING IN THE ATTIC- I watched two videos with Tom Silva discussing the proper way to install Drip Edge. We have squirrels in our attic and a pest control company wants to close up the "construction gap" with drip edge sheeting. Since they're attempting to keep out rodents, I'm concerned they will nail the drip edge directly to the fascia board. We have covered , perforated gutters so I'm also concerned water will get behind the gutters and put tension on the fascia. Should we have a roofer install the fascia instead so it's away from the fascia, verses "wasting" money with the pest control company that will probably install the drip edge incorrectly just to seal out squirrels? Would LOVE TOM TO ANSWER THIS DIRECTLY, BUT WELCOME ADVISE FROM ROOFING PROFESSIONALS THAT SEAL ATTICS FROM PEST. THANKS!
My only issue with this is nailing the step to the wall. When those shingles are replaced down the road, if the reveal is different, the step won't line up and will have to be adjusted. If you nail it to the wall, the siding has to come off to do that. One nail, in the deck, on the upper corner away from the wall is ideal. One of the biggest pissers in all of roofing is having to remove the siding to fix the step flashing.
Dude EXACTLY! Do you also nail step flashing to a skylight? NO! You don't nail to a wall ever because wall finish methods outlast shingles by many cycles. And here we are another supposed contractor doing a how to video teaching the wrong methods. You put a flashing down, you put the shingle over it and nail as close to the wall as you can in the normal spot as well. Place another flashing OVER THE NAIL and then a shingle over the loose flashing and then nail the shingle like you normally would again near the wall.
I recently had my roof recovered due to hurricane Zeta and the roofers installed my drip edge just like you demonstrated was a “no no”. I called them back out and refused to pay until it was fixed correctly. The contractor sent out the same person everytime and he just made things worse everytime. I finally told them to stop and don’t do anything else. A majority of the houses here in south MS have been done the wrong way. Even when built new. For this reason I now have bad fascia boards covered by metal flashing. I enjoy watching your shows. Have them set to record every week.
Everywhere but Florida you put the underlayment over the eave drip edge. Looks like manufacturers make exceptions in their install instructions if you install a flashing tape on the plywood to facia board.
There is consistency in manufacture guidelines. Drip goes on bare roof deck on eaves. And over top of underlayment on rakes (gable). Think like water. ..Water gets under shingles it will possibly run under that drip edge he installed over the ice shield. Probably never be an issue the way they wrapped the ice shield on the fascia but still. Gravity and water is why the manufacturer says to do this way..
The issue i have here is now you're losing gutter opening, you already have a 1/2 inch lip on the face of the drip edge and Tommy held the drip about a 1/2 inch ( fingers width) away from the facia and then he held his starter down another 1/2 inch past the drip so he's losing 1 1/2 inches from the 5 inch standard gutter opening which in some case's depending how well the gutter was hung a good steady rain will over shoot the gutter, if the facia is covered with aluminum trim there is absolutely no reason to hold drip away from the facia...
Agreed. I like the idea of a space between drip edge and fascia, but I think a 1 inch overhang for the shingles is too much. I think a quarter inch is plenty. Also, instead of drip edge, I use a longer piece of flashing that overlaps the edge of the gutter and deposits water straight in. So no fascia is exposed.
We bought a house, that has a metal porch on the back. Where the shingle roof meets the metal roof, its overhung about half an inch or so, then they shoved a rubber backing under the shingle causing water tension, and anywhere where the rubber has split, or is joined, water gets in. This causes the metal roof to leak where the fascia is. Does anyone know of a remedy to this without redoing the entire roof? Starter house so not looking to overspend on a solution.
By pulling the drip edge away from the fascia plus adding a half inch overhang off the shingle you are going to miss the gutter on a heavy rain. Plus 90% of houses have metal fascia that’s held tight to the rough fascia by the drip edge if it’s tight against it. I’d also put the tar strip down on a starter row to keep the wind and rain from getting under it. Don’t have a 1/2” overhang of shingles because in 5 to 10 years it’ll sag. To a previous comment about not nailing your step flash to the wall, you are wrong, you need to. Nobody is tearing off siding and replacing step flashing when re-roofing
All instructions I can find state that step flashings should be nailed to the deck only. Not the walls. With building movement you want the steps to be moving with the roof plane not the wall plane.
Not sure if a 1/2" is going to sag noticeably, but you could always split the difference and go with 1/4" and do the same with the drip edge, instead of the 1/2 - 3/4" you get with putting finger behind it, use a 1/4" spacer. Also, use 6" gutters and you solve a lot of your issues.
100% step flashing should be nailed to the deck not the wall. When that roof is redone with a different shingle in 20 years, with different reveal, the step won't be positioned correctly and will have to be replaced or adjusted. If you nail it to the wall the siding has to come off to remove it. 1 nail on the deck at the top corner as far from the wall as possible. When you rip the old roof leave the step loose and reposition and renail them as you install each course. 1/2" overhang is fine. May sag a bit but not bad. And generally, where I work, gutters are pretty much all 5" now, so unless you go overboard, covering the gutters isn't an issue.
@@jimtocci9125 It seems like the majority of contractors say 1/8 overhang with the shingles and I can never find anything on drip edge, but generally it's just a good idea to give it enough space that the gutters will fit. Not an expert, but to me it seems like everyone is not paying enough attention to the gutter. Sure, slow water would drip into the facia if there wasn't gutters, but going crazy with overhang would kinda defeat the purpose of gutters.
The only problem I see with the shingles hanging an inch over the drip edge is if you put a ladder against the house to go up on the roof you’re going to crush those shingle edges.
Buy a ladder "yoke" that sits under the top rung. The elongated "U" shaped yoke raises the ladder up off the roof and away from the flashing, the shingles and/or gutter. Every roofer should have one. Most do.
I've watched Tommy talk about flashing, and how important it is to do it correct many times. I went out to look at mine and it appears that the builder did it correct. But whoever hung the gutters put them right to the top of the roof line, over the dripedge and crushing it flat to the fascia board. My question would be: Should I pull the gutters off, fix the dripedge correctly and then replace the gutters back where they are spaced under the dripedge? I have looked at it when it was raining and the water does occasionally go behind the gutters and down the fascia board.
They sell gutter edging at depot if water is getting between gutter and facia. Taking gutter down is a job. Gutter is to be behind drip edge so that sucks a gutter guy is so careless. The gutter edging goes under the shingles and kicks out over gutter. Just a flat 4 inch aluminum strip with a 22 degree angle bend. Nothing fancy but works.
@@andrewrose5491 Thanks! Yep this sounds a lot easier then pulling all the gutters.I have been looking around at other houses in my area. Some of the gutters are installed correctly and some not. Probably the difference between a professional install and a cheapest bid install.
Tommy, any reason to bring that self-sealing membrane further out and down on the fascia board, if you bring the drip edge out 1/2 inch, for more protection of the fascia? Love the videos!!!!
Thanks for posting. I am not a builder, so I learned several things for a new 2 story building I am doing. I would have made the mistakes that this gentleman brought up.
You confirmed why my fascia boards keep peeling paint every couple years. The drip edge is pressed against the fascia boards. And the drip edge does not even have a little lip, kick out, at the bottom of it. It sits flat against the fascia boards. Been watching you guys for many years. Thank you!!
Its ok for the drip edge to touch, nobody does it how is shows for good reason. You simply need proper drip edge with a kick out, and when new roof is installed make sure they stick the shingle out past the drip edge not flush. This method looks terrible when you walk up to look at a house, you will also wreck your drip edge/shingles soon as you put a ladder on it.
First note ... If ya drip edge dose not have a quarter inch kick on it ... It is not drip edge ... And it matters not if the drip edge touches ... The reason for the peeling paint ... My guess would be a few things ... Either cheap paint ... Or your soffit is not properly vented ...
Your roofer might use the different drip edge. My drip edges have a little lip, kick out at the bottom and space 0.5" from the fascia broads. When the heavy rain come, it would not touch the fascia broads, only slow rain.
Your fascia may be peeling paint not from rain but from not fully painting both inside and outside of the board as well as using a poor paint choice. Meaning pull it off and paint the whole thing as a dry board. Just a regular satin acrylic latex, and if the paint needs a primer, use Zinsser bullseye 123. I have not had any peeling paint after doing that.
@@scottdowney4318 Its been a couple years and the fascia looks great. Separated the flashing from fascia, scraped and sanded to bare wood. Used same paint brands as originally used and have used successfully for decades, Zinsser 123 and Kelly Moore.
Drip edge first then ice and water over drip edge. Or you'll be replacing a foot or more of the sheeting and facia in ten years or the next shingle job. And on valleys nip the top corner of the shingles, valley side, at a 90 degree 3/4 inch cut so the water won't follow the top of the shingle. I've worked with old roofers and am always watching for tips. The little things are the difference between called back or a job done right. I'm no roofer but have done enough to see how shingles and water works. Learned a lot from this show but am surprised about the drip edge being the second step. Ice will back up the shingle and go around under the drip edging hence the ice and water being so sticky and melts around the nails.
Because some people think your gable will rot out as they think water will still hug the gable. Leaving an inch for the drip edge is fine, ive done it. But Some drip edges are so flimsy that you cant anyways as its not long enough. You also should remember that most older homes havent had drip edge and are perfectly fine. Wouldn't stress about it, far more important things on a roof to pay attention to
You did not really explain the step flashing too much or how to lay the shingles on the starters. Did you pull them half an inch to overhand the starter? Did the first nail on the shingle also nail the step flashing?
so when you are trying to replace the facia the problem I have that NO ONE addresses is that there are 5 million nails coming thru the drip edge into the top of the facia, so when you try to replace the facia all those 5 million nails prevent the facia from c going up tight to the plywood. How do you remove the nails? I've tried a jam saw. a nail cutter or just pushing them all up and out...way to time consuming. Anybody have any ideas?????
Sealing membrane, I have no comment about, but for those that says he was totally wrong and about the drip edge that it should be flushed are wrong. Not only has some roofers witnessed damage done with the drip edge flushed, Shiva has demonstrated it on Ask This Old House how flush is bad. Is using a 1x2 or leaving a gap behind the drip edge better? I have not seen or heard any thing on that.
Yea, never see anyone install it stuck out like that with a gap. Not a good idea, you simply do not make the shingles flush, give it a bit of a overhang.
@Leopold are you getting off the ladder onto the roof? There's a big difference between working off a ladder and getting off a ladder. Or rather getting back onto a ladder after having gotten off of it at the top. If you plan on dismounting a ladder at the top make sure you have two rungs over the edge to hang onto as you get back onto the ladder. It is a basic ladder rule. Because without two rungs over the edge you have to do some sketchy acrobatics to get back onto the ladder. Although oddly getting off the ladder is pretty easy without rungs over the edge. It is getting back on where you're going to run into problems. There's nothing but air past the ladder then to grab onto. You're going to look pretty foolish trying to hang onto thin air too.
just make sure to water test your methods in front of knowledge and hydration thirsty help, or just call them students take all the credit like these clowns.
In the old days, roofers did not set the first line shingles and membranes passing/overhang the drip edge to avoid water leakage. Sometimes, I watched heavy rains flash down from valley, water touched the fascia broads. Therefore, many houses are having fascia broads damaged included my house. The hard part is to remove a small section of fascia broad, not to removing any shingles. My shingles and drip edges are in very good condition.
What's going to hold aluminum fascia (if that's what you want to use) in place if the drip edge is out a half inch or more? Was taught you cannot use nails on the vertical portion exposed to weather.
Yes, and what about nailing the step flashing on the roof only!!! If you ever want to replace the step flashing if nailed on the wall you have to take siding off🤷♂️
Just dont do it, i agree with most things tom does but this is not one, with the proper shingle overhang at the eaves its not needed to have a finger width gap. when the gutter guys put the gutters in there, when water drips onto the drippedge it will just flow down and right into the gutters. If gutters arent getting put on, wind driven rain will just wisp it back like how the water flowed back in the first clip. Pointless to have that big of a gap there. Ive been roofing for 5 years now and have worked with lots of companies so i know my stuff.
Yes, this is true. But most often the people in the videos are showing you what is “ to code “ in their state , city etc…. It isn’t always the contractors who don’t agree , it’s the ones who set code.
Is it wrong to nail the step flashing to the chimney? My understanding is that the chimney and roof expand and contract differently and for that reason the step flashing should be nailed to the roof and not the chimney wall. If the step flashing is nailed to the chimney the flashing will be pulled by both the nail in the chimney and the tar on the shingles.
I don't like the nailing step flashing to the wall. Next roofer might need to move it up or down, I dont see the need to do that, but some do nail it to the wall. I also on my roof put the flashing under the wall wrap and over the synthetic roof underlayment, that Tyvek Protec 200. that way any water getting under the old aluminum siding flows out away on top the flashing and not get behind it. Was not hard to do when the siding is off. And the step flashing needs only one corner nail in it away from the wall.
I have a roof being done right now. The product manager decided on his own not to replace the drip edge. The existing drip edge was half the length that it should have been and wood was showing. Idiot! I am making them replace the drip edge. My question is should they take off the older drip edge or put new drip edge over old?
@@luislujan8715 I was waiting for the answer here but it never came. So I watched a lot of drip edge installation videos and figured out that most of them use asphalt shingle's nails. My roof couldn't wait so, I used asphalt shingle's nails and they worked pretty well.
Ideally nail matches flashing material to avoid corrosion. If aluminum flashing, use a large head aluminum nail. Or at least a double dipped, galvanized roofing nail.
@@joshhaas2410 Right, i usually just put mine loose against the fascia, With that being said, most houses have gutters in that area. Plus in the video that gap he put between the fascia and drip edge didnt even show a purpose during his water test. the water was able to run off properly because he overhanged his shingles isntead of running it flush. I work in vancouver and we use metal w valley and i always trim the valley metal going into the bottom of the valley and fold it in on itself because for one, it takes 1 minute to do, and secondly it avoids bugs and bees from going in there and creating a nest.
2 things. the drip edge is suppose to go under the ice shield and also you dont need a drip edge that wide, a waste of money, another thing is the step flashing should be nailed to the roof not the wall, in the future that makes it easier to replace or deal with in general
@@christopheralegria71 for the same gap that he made with his fingers as spacers. It's more consistent on a job because not everyone's hands are the same size and you don't have to measure and waste time. Push it up to the 1x2 and move on.
It doesn’t seem to work, though. I have the 1x2s on my house, and the eaves are all rotted because the water run across them. The 1x2s fail to break the surface tension.
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One thing I have learned from watching multiple videos about correctly installing a drip edge. There is absolutely no consistency in the industry from one contractor to another.
Dirk Moore - Well said!
Biggest debate seems to be if you put the drip edge under or over the underlayment. I honestly got tired of debating and decided to run a course along the edge. Put the drip edge down and then run the full underlayment all the way up on top of it. Side courses everyone does on top
Water is the ultimate judge!
You are SO correct
Yep. At least on TH-cam. I am not a contractor or a construction guy I’m a DIY guy. But I think if you look up code it will show exactly how it’s supposed to be down in your area.
This dude is a great teacher
Who makes that drip edge? All the stuff I can find at my local big box stores have only about 2 inches of material up on the roof for attachment. The drip edge shown in this video appears to have 4+ inches on the roof where it's nailed.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Tom self-sealing Membrane silva!
He makes the "starter course of shingle/strip" stick out 1/2 so it does not wet the metal and roll in. to the fascia.
However it might be too easy to break (brittle) and I believe it is not necessary now that the metal final edge is fully inside the gutters.
It shouldn’t have anything ever come in contact that could break the edge. I’d prefer it dripping over than onto the metal and could possibly wick back under the shingles and in a lot of cases behind gutters.
Did the same on my wall to roof but used Tyvek Protec 200 ran 2 feet up the wall. Then wrapped the wall. Where we live we get no snow. Then I made step flashing out of aluminum 3.5" legs and 8" long cut from 14" trim coil. worked out fine. I also used some Dynaflex 230 black caulk anywhere that seemed it needed some. My house built in 1973 has aluminum siding and no J channel along the edge, which I like the look. I replaced the exterior sheet rock with 1/2" plywood.
Sounds like a good job. Only thing I would’ve done differently is use 30# Felt instead of Tyvek and Henry’s Wet Patch instead of caulking.
Underlayment is above or below drip edge??? I keep seeing different techniques. Also people saying it depends on your State. Which is the better method regardless of which State you're in?
As always I am glad I came here for infomration. I saw another video about drip edge and thought it was the right way but I can see now it was not. I just purcahsed a farm taht has a 1890 farm house with tenants who have been there 19 years. I need to catch up on some maintenance the old farmer had let lapse, So the roof on the porch and part of it was enclosed and is part of the livable space now. I suspect I will be opening up a can of worms when I start getting into it.
Drip edge on the eaves should go under the felt. That way if water gets under the shingles it rolls onto the felt and over the drip edge not under it.
Exactly. I don't understand how people get this wrong. I install my shingles from the peak down...lol
Ice shield First. Then drip. Ice shield should be installed 3" down over the gutter board. You can install a 6" strip of ice shield over the drip. Then install underlayment over all so shingles don't stick.
@@larrycrookshanks9091 Is the "underlayment" you speak of the membrane layer he refers to at the very beginning of the video? So instead of that being first, you're saying an ice shield, which he doesn't seem to utilize at all, should be installed 2-3" from edge of roof down over the fascia board and up to a not specified point onto the roof (several feet? halfway? the whole roof?). Then the drip shield, then ANOTHER ice shield layer over the drip shield, then the membrane sheet over all of that? If it works it works, but that seems like an excessive amount of layers that'll raise the shingles off of the roof by a lot.
Exactly my thoughts. This would seem elementary.
Such a great teacher.
Except his install of drip edge I wacked out.
I was told that the bottom drip edge should have the waterproof membrane placed on TOP of the drip edge. The sides and top should have the membrane UNDER the flashing… which is correct??
I've seen Tom do it both ways in videos.
With all do respect, where i live 9 times out of 10 there is an aluminum fascia covering the fascia board. Therefore worrying about the water rotting the board is not an issue and the water drips off the bottom of the aluminum fascia. The aluminum fascia even has a protective design to stop against water wicking around and causing problems. Thereforw i choose to install the shingles flush with the drip edge to reduce the risk of ice in the gutter or wind lifting or breaking the bottom of the bottom coarse
But if you drag the flashing out from the facia by a finger span, what's to prevent driving rain from being blown up under the drip edge?
I am installing new step flashing but the one nail he used was on the wall and I have an existing finished wall and my only nail able area is the roof. If I nail thru the shingle adhesive area into the step flashing, will that work?
Should that be gutter apron for gutter area and drip edge on rakes?
not a roofer but that makes more sense logically to me as well.
I see your drip edge has alot of nailing surface.. what im seeing at my local supply store only has 2" nailing surface.. where would i find the drip edge you are using in your video ?
Did you ever find. I've only seen tome with that extra wide Drip edge?
@@corysturgis6660 i was told my area doesn't reqire the wide drip edge so they only stock the 2 5/8 wide material... I did install a roll of ice barrier, so I feel pretty confident it'll stay dry. Thank you for your response
Leaving a finger width on the drip edge would fail inspection in Florida. Besides, that's rake edge flashing. Eve end is longer going down. Guttering keeps water off the facia.
That drip edge gap.....hmm. My fascia board also has a 1x2 nailed to it, under the drip edge. It's an old roof, maybe something that's not done anymore. But it seems to help protect the fascia better (kinda like a double fascia in that area).
Agree! We should have 1" x 2" behind the drip-edge. They installed it in 1983 on my house. If the drip-edge bend out further, rain will flush away from fascia further. I installed a wider piece metal at the end of valley, the rain flush away further.
Same, got house built in 1973, on top the rake fascia is a 1x2 at the top. I like the look of it. I am shingling now but not going to do a rake metal drip edge, don't see the need. I replaced all my fascia with GC PT 1x6's, and painted both sides of those boards. Ground contact PT wont rot, and it does hold paint just fine. Now at the eaves, it is just 1x6, but I plan to put on aluminum drip edge, to me it seems useful as the way my house is made, there is a gap at the bottom edge of the plywood where it meets the fascia and a drip edge will seal that better. Plus it may improve the lifespan of the shingle edge. I also will have to paint the new drip edge to match the color. of the fascia boards, not a big deal but paint it before it goes up is easier.
you are a perfect teacher.
Would the building inspector sign off on a drip edge being improperly installed.?
The biggest issue I see on new homes is they install the drip edge flush to the fascia and leave no room for guttering to slide under the backside of the drip edge. So they just install gutters over top of the drip edge
How much room should be left between the drip edge and the facia to accommodate the gutters? This was a finger width, which seems like an awful lot of room to allow wind driven rain to get up behind and under the drip edge and shingles.
As someone who bought a house without gutters, it really is a pita ... and this house was built in '75, so it's not just new construction.
@@LA2047 you only need enough to slide the backside of the guttering behind it. The gutter is thin metal so not much space is needed.
@@rigidinspections
That's what I figured, but this guy puts a gap that seems ridiculously large that provides a lot of room for driving rain to get up underneath.
Been loving TOH since 1971.. ! Learn em Tommy
Wow, you've been loving the show since eight years before it began...
@@bfsgmannow THAT is true love! 😅😂
I agree with Tommy on this one. On my house, with aluminum fascia covering the wood, the drip edge was up against the fascia and water would run down the fascia and behind the gutter all along the roof. The gutter was useless in a light rain.
True. But if the shingle had a 1" overhang I would imagine that wouldn't happen. Or did it?
Gutter should be installed up under the lip of the drip edge. That way the water runs into the gutter from the drip edge.
I would never install the gutter. If heavy rain flash down to the grass, I could install step stones along the line 16" from the wall.
@@HsingSun the spashing from not having gutters will ruin your siding unless you have long overhangs and the splashing will not reach the walls
@@corysturgis6660not to mention foundation
I’ve seen mixed videos in which a drip edge is applied to the pitch edge of the roof and some don’t. What’s your thoughts? I’m replacing my drip edge in the next 72 hours as I’ve discovered the old drip edge has gaps and allowed a significant leak and damage to accumulate around some window frames.
How to flash a roof.
1. Lift shirt.
2. Repeat until entire roof has been exposed.
Joshua M I knew I would find a comment like this 😂
That's MY joke! haha
I know I couldn't resist.
Joshua M You know I had a guy also called Joshua M in my class, he would have same the same thing if he saw this video. 😂
Ladies I sure hope that’s my house
And what about in the winter ?? If there’s a gutter should’nt the snow go between that gap ??
If you put a finger space in your drip edge then you go back with a fascia cover what holds the cover normally the drip edge holds the aluminum fascia cover.
I now have to figure out how to fix my new roof because the roofers didn’t nail down the drip edge good enough so it’s humped up in places and not overlapping the gutters. And they ran the shingles flush or not even covering in some places. Makes me wonder how many roofs are done incorrectly because these people had years of experience and were doing it this way.
Mr Silva I am not an expert like you but my method would be drip edge the ice and water on top right to the edge of the drip edge and then starter strip hanging over the drip edge about a 1/4 inch and shingles inline with the starter strip...
Yup this way is wrong and you don't gap your drip edge like that you but it tight and that sun fascia gets wrapped.......
Tom is very close on his install. Correct installation is Ice shield down over gutter board 2-3" then drip edge. No other way. Then install a 6" strip of ice shield over the drip on to the existing ice shield. Then install starter and shingles 1/2"-3/4" past the drip edge. Tom is absolutely correct on that as the water will wick back to the gutter board and down behind the gutter.
Ice shield obviously seems like a good idea, but when you reroof, does it come off easily or does it adhere to the plywood/OSB so well that it comes up in chunks or damages the plywood/OSB?
Someone please explain to me why the underlayment is UNDER the drip edge here. If water breaches the shingles and rolls down the underlayment to the top edge of that drip edge, I doubt that nailed drip edge is going to do much to prevent some water from going under. I’m thinking rotted decking and rotted rafter tails. What am I missing? Thanks.
USING DRIP EDGE TO STOP RODENTS GETTING IN THE ATTIC- I watched two videos with Tom Silva discussing the proper way to install Drip Edge. We have squirrels in our attic and a pest control company wants to close up the "construction gap" with drip edge sheeting. Since they're attempting to keep out rodents, I'm concerned they will nail the drip edge directly to the fascia board. We have covered , perforated gutters so I'm also concerned water will get behind the gutters and put tension on the fascia. Should we have a roofer install the fascia instead so it's away from the fascia, verses "wasting" money with the pest control company that will probably install the drip edge incorrectly just to seal out squirrels? Would LOVE TOM TO ANSWER THIS DIRECTLY, BUT WELCOME ADVISE FROM ROOFING PROFESSIONALS THAT SEAL ATTICS FROM PEST. THANKS!
Knowledge 😎
Thank you Sir
My only issue with this is nailing the step to the wall. When those shingles are replaced down the road, if the reveal is different, the step won't line up and will have to be adjusted. If you nail it to the wall, the siding has to come off to do that. One nail, in the deck, on the upper corner away from the wall is ideal.
One of the biggest pissers in all of roofing is having to remove the siding to fix the step flashing.
Dude EXACTLY! Do you also nail step flashing to a skylight? NO! You don't nail to a wall ever because wall finish methods outlast shingles by many cycles. And here we are another supposed contractor doing a how to video teaching the wrong methods. You put a flashing down, you put the shingle over it and nail as close to the wall as you can in the normal spot as well. Place another flashing OVER THE NAIL and then a shingle over the loose flashing and then nail the shingle like you normally would again near the wall.
But in theory, by nailing to the wall you have less roof penetration ... so this is a classic case of "That's the next guys problem"
I recently had my roof recovered due to hurricane Zeta and the roofers installed my drip edge just like you demonstrated was a “no no”. I called them back out and refused to pay until it was fixed correctly. The contractor sent out the same person everytime and he just made things worse everytime. I finally told them to stop and don’t do anything else. A majority of the houses here in south MS have been done the wrong way. Even when built new. For this reason I now have bad fascia boards covered by metal flashing. I enjoy watching your shows. Have them set to record every week.
Everywhere but Florida you put the underlayment over the eave drip edge. Looks like manufacturers make exceptions in their install instructions if you install a flashing tape on the plywood to facia board.
Never trust contractors, sometime they are new employees and no experience.
There is consistency in manufacture guidelines. Drip goes on bare roof deck on eaves. And over top of underlayment on rakes (gable). Think like water. ..Water gets under shingles it will possibly run under that drip edge he installed over the ice shield. Probably never be an issue the way they wrapped the ice shield on the fascia but still. Gravity and water is why the manufacturer says to do this way..
As long as flashing is done correct, is it OK if the shingle doesn't overhang it that 1/2 inch?
Why no shadow board ? Is this a new England thing and also no turn out flashing witch is code in MA.
i become a better person with every one of these videos i watch, lol thank you!
If there is a will, there isn’t a way I guess.
At the end of valley, I added and extended a piece of aluminum, so rain can flash out farther away from drip edges.
The issue i have here is now you're losing gutter opening, you already have a 1/2 inch lip on the face of the drip edge and Tommy held the drip about a 1/2 inch ( fingers width) away from the facia and then he held his starter down another 1/2 inch past the drip so he's losing 1 1/2 inches from the 5 inch standard gutter opening which in some case's depending how well the gutter was hung a good steady rain will over shoot the gutter, if the facia is covered with aluminum trim there is absolutely no reason to hold drip away from the facia...
Cases
Agreed. I like the idea of a space between drip edge and fascia, but I think a 1 inch overhang for the shingles is too much. I think a quarter inch is plenty. Also, instead of drip edge, I use a longer piece of flashing that overlaps the edge of the gutter and deposits water straight in. So no fascia is exposed.
Is flashing 4 x 4x 8 ?
Thank you Tommy for sharing your knowledge I wish I was 20 years younger
We bought a house, that has a metal porch on the back.
Where the shingle roof meets the metal roof, its overhung about half an inch or so, then they shoved a rubber backing under the shingle causing water tension, and anywhere where the rubber has split, or is joined, water gets in. This causes the metal roof to leak where the fascia is.
Does anyone know of a remedy to this without redoing the entire roof?
Starter house so not looking to overspend on a solution.
By pulling the drip edge away from the fascia plus adding a half inch overhang off the shingle you are going to miss the gutter on a heavy rain. Plus 90% of houses have metal fascia that’s held tight to the rough fascia by the drip edge if it’s tight against it. I’d also put the tar strip down on a starter row to keep the wind and rain from getting under it. Don’t have a 1/2” overhang of shingles because in 5 to 10 years it’ll sag. To a previous comment about not nailing your step flash to the wall, you are wrong, you need to. Nobody is tearing off siding and replacing step flashing when re-roofing
All instructions I can find state that step flashings should be nailed to the deck only. Not the walls. With building movement you want the steps to be moving with the roof plane not the wall plane.
Not sure if a 1/2" is going to sag noticeably, but you could always split the difference and go with 1/4" and do the same with the drip edge, instead of the 1/2 - 3/4" you get with putting finger behind it, use a 1/4" spacer. Also, use 6" gutters and you solve a lot of your issues.
100% step flashing should be nailed to the deck not the wall. When that roof is redone with a different shingle in 20 years, with different reveal, the step won't be positioned correctly and will have to be replaced or adjusted. If you nail it to the wall the siding has to come off to remove it. 1 nail on the deck at the top corner as far from the wall as possible. When you rip the old roof leave the step loose and reposition and renail them as you install each course.
1/2" overhang is fine. May sag a bit but not bad. And generally, where I work, gutters are pretty much all 5" now, so unless you go overboard, covering the gutters isn't an issue.
@@jimtocci9125 It seems like the majority of contractors say 1/8 overhang with the shingles and I can never find anything on drip edge, but generally it's just a good idea to give it enough space that the gutters will fit. Not an expert, but to me it seems like everyone is not paying enough attention to the gutter. Sure, slow water would drip into the facia if there wasn't gutters, but going crazy with overhang would kinda defeat the purpose of gutters.
The only problem I see with the shingles hanging an inch over the drip edge is if you put a ladder against the house to go up on the roof you’re going to crush those shingle edges.
You need a over hang on all edges you can't run them flush
Buy a ladder "yoke" that sits under the top rung. The elongated "U" shaped yoke raises the ladder up off the roof and away from the flashing, the shingles and/or gutter. Every roofer should have one. Most do.
You invite bats to nest along the roof line when there is a space. They cause damage as well. Never knew thus until I moved to the country.
There will be an eavestrough there. And you should always use ladder standoffs or a gutter guard.
The ladder will hit the gutter before the shingles.
I've watched Tommy talk about flashing, and how important it is to do it correct many times. I went out to look at mine and it appears that the builder did it correct. But whoever hung the gutters put them right to the top of the roof line, over the dripedge and crushing it flat to the fascia board. My question would be: Should I pull the gutters off, fix the dripedge correctly and then replace the gutters back where they are spaced under the dripedge? I have looked at it when it was raining and the water does occasionally go behind the gutters and down the fascia board.
They sell gutter edging at depot if water is getting between gutter and facia. Taking gutter down is a job. Gutter is to be behind drip edge so that sucks a gutter guy is so careless. The gutter edging goes under the shingles and kicks out over gutter. Just a flat 4 inch aluminum strip with a 22 degree angle bend. Nothing fancy but works.
@@andrewrose5491 Thanks! Yep this sounds a lot easier then pulling all the gutters.I have been looking around at other houses in my area. Some of the gutters are installed correctly and some not. Probably the difference between a professional install and a cheapest bid install.
Tommy, any reason to bring that self-sealing membrane further out and down on the fascia board, if you bring the drip edge out 1/2 inch, for more protection of the fascia? Love the videos!!!!
think hes bringing it out on the fascia to avoid if you do it wrong that water want go against the board. So its like double protection
Thanks for posting. I am not a builder, so I learned several things for a new 2 story building I am doing. I would have made the mistakes that this gentleman brought up.
You confirmed why my fascia boards keep peeling paint every couple years. The drip edge is pressed against the fascia boards. And the drip edge does not even have a little lip, kick out, at the bottom of it. It sits flat against the fascia boards. Been watching you guys for many years. Thank you!!
Its ok for the drip edge to touch, nobody does it how is shows for good reason. You simply need proper drip edge with a kick out, and when new roof is installed make sure they stick the shingle out past the drip edge not flush. This method looks terrible when you walk up to look at a house, you will also wreck your drip edge/shingles soon as you put a ladder on it.
First note ... If ya drip edge dose not have a quarter inch kick on it ... It is not drip edge ... And it matters not if the drip edge touches ... The reason for the peeling paint ... My guess would be a few things ... Either cheap paint ... Or your soffit is not properly vented ...
Your roofer might use the different drip edge. My drip edges have a little lip, kick out at the bottom and space 0.5" from the fascia broads. When the heavy rain come, it would not touch the fascia broads, only slow rain.
Your fascia may be peeling paint not from rain but from not fully painting both inside and outside of the board as well as using a poor paint choice. Meaning pull it off and paint the whole thing as a dry board. Just a regular satin acrylic latex, and if the paint needs a primer, use Zinsser bullseye 123. I have not had any peeling paint after doing that.
@@scottdowney4318 Its been a couple years and the fascia looks great. Separated the flashing from fascia, scraped and sanded to bare wood. Used same paint brands as originally used and have used successfully for decades, Zinsser 123 and Kelly Moore.
You were nailing above the manufacturer's nailing line, warranty voided!
Not only that but he thought them that's the way.
@@cgah6690 Thought? or Taught?
great video
Great video but why would the paper go under the flashin
You are not drunk or high. What qualifies you as a roofer.
Forgot long rap sheet or green card or both.
Drip edge first then ice and water over drip edge. Or you'll be replacing a foot or more of the sheeting and facia in ten years or the next shingle job. And on valleys nip the top corner of the shingles, valley side, at a 90 degree 3/4 inch cut so the water won't follow the top of the shingle. I've worked with old roofers and am always watching for tips. The little things are the difference between called back or a job done right. I'm no roofer but have done enough to see how shingles and water works. Learned a lot from this show but am surprised about the drip edge being the second step. Ice will back up the shingle and go around under the drip edging hence the ice and water being so sticky and melts around the nails.
Most drip edges have a lip that kicks out already, I dont give an inch away from the eaves . I put the shingle 1 inch from the drip edge to though
Why cant the shingles go even with the drip edge. He says it's a no no but doesnt explain why
Because some people think your gable will rot out as they think water will still hug the gable. Leaving an inch for the drip edge is fine, ive done it. But Some drip edges are so flimsy that you cant anyways as its not long enough. You also should remember that most older homes havent had drip edge and are perfectly fine. Wouldn't stress about it, far more important things on a roof to pay attention to
You did not really explain the step flashing too much or how to lay the shingles on the starters. Did you pull them half an inch to overhand the starter? Did the first nail on the shingle also nail the step flashing?
5/8 inch overhang of shingles seemed standard before drip edging. I rarely saw rot on fascias..personally don't even feel the need for drip edge
so when you are trying to replace the facia the problem I have that NO ONE addresses is that there are 5 million nails coming thru the drip edge into the top of the facia, so when you try to replace the facia all those 5 million nails prevent the facia from c going up tight to the plywood.
How do you remove the nails? I've tried a jam saw. a nail cutter or just pushing them all up and out...way to time consuming.
Anybody have any ideas?????
Sealing membrane, I have no comment about, but for those that says he was totally wrong and about the drip edge that it should be flushed are wrong. Not only has some roofers witnessed damage done with the drip edge flushed, Shiva has demonstrated it on Ask This Old House how flush is bad. Is using a 1x2 or leaving a gap behind the drip edge better? I have not seen or heard any thing on that.
Learn something new great video
Good job
Works great until somebody puts an extension ladder up against that roof and the drip edge and shingles gets crushed
Very good point. I guess you put the ladder on the fascia and climb over carefully. Good to know ahead of time.
Yea, never see anyone install it stuck out like that with a gap. Not a good idea, you simply do not make the shingles flush, give it a bit of a overhang.
The ladder goes on the gutter
@@gaijintendo good luck getting back on the ladder if you don't have rungs over your landing.
@Leopold are you getting off the ladder onto the roof? There's a big difference between working off a ladder and getting off a ladder. Or rather getting back onto a ladder after having gotten off of it at the top. If you plan on dismounting a ladder at the top make sure you have two rungs over the edge to hang onto as you get back onto the ladder. It is a basic ladder rule. Because without two rungs over the edge you have to do some sketchy acrobatics to get back onto the ladder. Although oddly getting off the ladder is pretty easy without rungs over the edge. It is getting back on where you're going to run into problems. There's nothing but air past the ladder then to grab onto. You're going to look pretty foolish trying to hang onto thin air too.
I am going to paint water sealing and put new paint on those new fascia broads when I need to re-roof.
just make sure to water test your methods in front of knowledge and hydration thirsty help, or just call them students take all the credit like these clowns.
In the old days, roofers did not set the first line shingles and membranes passing/overhang the drip edge to avoid water leakage. Sometimes, I watched heavy rains flash down from valley, water touched the fascia broads. Therefore, many houses are having fascia broads damaged included my house. The hard part is to remove a small section of fascia broad, not to removing any shingles. My shingles and drip edges are in very good condition.
What's the point of using a drip-edge if you just overhang the shingles and the water drips from the shingles instead of the drip-edge?
It would do the same thing if you push the drip edge against the facia and let your shingles over hang
this type of drip edge is better just on gable ends..strait runs you need a good 2×3 flashing for when you install gutters
Drip-edge should be under the ice guard
Manufacturers calls for both
Drip edge goes under ice and water
3 smart persons learning a proper skill from a specialist 🔨👷👷♀️
Ohhh boy I bet tommy did a backflip when they said he gets to do a video on flashing for roofing!! That guy gets off HARD on flashing.
What's going to hold aluminum fascia (if that's what you want to use) in place if the drip edge is out a half inch or more? Was taught you cannot use nails on the vertical portion exposed to weather.
u r missing the kickout flashing
Yes, and what about nailing the step flashing on the roof only!!! If you ever want to replace the step flashing if nailed on the wall you have to take siding off🤷♂️
Thanks, explains why my window only leaks sometimes when it rains.
We never used D-edge on an eave unless they didn't get a gutter. We would use a gutter apron.
Can I put some kind of sealant in that space behind the flashing to prevent wasps and hornets from making a nest?
You can do what ever is structurly sound you bet"
Just dont do it, i agree with most things tom does but this is not one, with the proper shingle overhang at the eaves its not needed to have a finger width gap. when the gutter guys put the gutters in there, when water drips onto the drippedge it will just flow down and right into the gutters. If gutters arent getting put on, wind driven rain will just wisp it back like how the water flowed back in the first clip. Pointless to have that big of a gap there.
Ive been roofing for 5 years now and have worked with lots of companies so i know my stuff.
Water is running behind my gutter onto the fascia board. How do I install a drip flashing on the edge of a concrete tile roof?
B,U,T,FUL.❤ JOB . I am learning at the age of 75 wow👌🙏👏🎯
Tom loves flashing so much he lives next to Cabaret Lounge.
Thumb up: The drip edge metal is pulled out to allow fingers to go behind it and the fascia
Shouldn’t drip edge be installed UNDER the asphalt underlay? You installed it over which can cause water to seep in between.. 🤷♂️
Very cool
YOUR A GOOD BOY TOMMY
Just use composite board for the fascia...it will never rot.
Looks like poo tho
Why no close up video of the correct installation?
Yes, this is true.
But most often the people in the videos are showing you what is “ to code “ in their state , city etc….
It isn’t always the contractors who don’t agree , it’s the ones who set code.
Is it wrong to nail the step flashing to the chimney? My understanding is that the chimney and roof expand and contract differently and for that reason the step flashing should be nailed to the roof and not the chimney wall. If the step flashing is nailed to the chimney the flashing will be pulled by both the nail in the chimney and the tar on the shingles.
Can pests get in the attic more easily if you leave a gap like that?
I don't like the nailing step flashing to the wall. Next roofer might need to move it up or down, I dont see the need to do that, but some do nail it to the wall. I also on my roof put the flashing under the wall wrap and over the synthetic roof underlayment, that Tyvek Protec 200. that way any water getting under the old aluminum siding flows out away on top the flashing and not get behind it. Was not hard to do when the siding is off. And the step flashing needs only one corner nail in it away from the wall.
Brilliant
I have a roof being done right now. The product manager decided on his own not to replace the drip edge. The existing drip edge was half the length that it should have been and wood was showing. Idiot! I am making them replace the drip edge. My question is should they take off the older drip edge or put new drip edge over old?
Take if off.
Great video.
One question:
What kind of nails are you using to fix the drip edge?
Are those asphalt shingles' nails?
Did you figure it out? I was wondering the same thing
@@luislujan8715 I was waiting for the answer here but it never came.
So I watched a lot of drip edge installation videos and figured out that most of them use asphalt shingle's nails.
My roof couldn't wait so, I used asphalt shingle's nails and they worked pretty well.
Thanks man !
Ideally nail matches flashing material to avoid corrosion. If aluminum flashing, use a large head aluminum nail. Or at least a double dipped, galvanized roofing nail.
Home Depot and Lowes will give you the answers.
Gonna be 1 million spiders and bugs living in that drip edge gap.
Not to mention bees. I thought the same thing. Seems crazy.
@@joshhaas2410 Right, i usually just put mine loose against the fascia, With that being said, most houses have gutters in that area. Plus in the video that gap he put between the fascia and drip edge didnt even show a purpose during his water test. the water was able to run off properly because he overhanged his shingles isntead of running it flush.
I work in vancouver and we use metal w valley and i always trim the valley metal going into the bottom of the valley and fold it in on itself because for one, it takes 1 minute to do, and secondly it avoids bugs and bees from going in there and creating a nest.
2 things. the drip edge is suppose to go under the ice shield and also you dont need a drip edge that wide, a waste of money, another thing is the step flashing should be nailed to the roof not the wall, in the future that makes it easier to replace or deal with in general
Yeah, save a few bucks on the drip edge that gets replaced every 30-40 years 🤦🏼♂️
Should have mentioned spacing the drip edge out to accomodate the gutter being tucked in behind it!
Here in texas we add a 1x2 between the fascia and flasing
For what purpose?
@@christopheralegria71 for the same gap that he made with his fingers as spacers. It's more consistent on a job because not everyone's hands are the same size and you don't have to measure and waste time. Push it up to the 1x2 and move on.
That's how I've done it for 45 years. Here in New England and Galveston/ Crystal Beach , Texas
@@mikez4132 so the drip edge lip hangs past/lower than the 1x2 then?
It doesn’t seem to work, though. I have the 1x2s on my house, and the eaves are all rotted because the water run across them. The 1x2s fail to break the surface tension.
Thanks. This is very helpful.
Tell it to the manufacturer??
They do not sell a proper dripedge (like we see here) in the reno stores.