Thanks for the message back. Everything works great! A note for anyone else going through this repair: when you're putting the faceplate back on and trying to connect those two cables to the board again, take off the top panel for easier access. That makes it sooooo much easier. It took me a couple minutes of frustration to figure that one out. Also, be very careful with the solder. It's very easy to put too much as the leads are very small. I also reused the old rubber caps from the old bulbs.
Thank you very much for posting this. Our 2003 Vibe's radio went blank and this info saved the day. Got some 60ma "Grain of Wheat" bulbs and they work perfectly. One note, the originals had a silicone or some kind of rubber sleeve covering each bulb. They looked like LEDs, but felt rubbery. Turns out the sleeve will roll off the bulbs. Assume they act as a light diffuser, so put these sleeves over the new bulbs. Used a solder sucker to clear the holes to insert the new bulbs. Definitely need a good soldering iron with a small tip for these. Not very difficult and saves the money of buying a replacement radio. Again, thank you!
YES YES YESSSS!!!!! I have driven this car for nearly 4 long years, and finally I can read the flipping time!!! I literally have never soldered anything (had to go buy an iron) and I was able to do it on the first try thanks to this video.
Thanks for that, was very nice to be able to walk in and get what I needed. They were like 2 dollars a piece at Radio Shack. I noticed that the one working bulb was starting to darken so i figured I would just replace all 3 at that price.
This is a wonderful video . It gave me enough confidence to tackle this project. And a success it was. The wife is so happy she can see what station she is on and most of all she has a clock now. Took about an hour and yes that was with the trip to radio shack. Thank you for the knowledge!!!!
Thanks for this video it gave me the confidence to repair my radio after the dealership said the radio would have to be replaced at a cost of $500. The tips about using duct tape & removing the bottom panel to get to the wire connectors are right on. The two knobs pull straight off and need to be removed too. A tip about removing the bulbs, because I couldn't heat both wires at the same time, I used a pair of tweezers to grab one wire, heat it and pull it out then repeated on the second wire. Same when installing the new bulb, melt the solder, push the wire through & repeat with the other wire. Another tip. Find a way to hold the board vertical so you have both hands free to work on it, maybe a couple of thick books. The 272-1092 bulbs worked and the display looks like it did when new.
Masterful. thank you It's also easy to take the metal top off the radio which makes removing and replacing the circuit board connectors a breeze. Also when removing the LCD display be sure to pull it straight out there are plastic locating pins that go in the circuit board that it's possible to bend/break. I suspect these are critical to the working of the display.
James, Thanks for sharing your expertise. Did this last eve. and it went off without a hitch. I did follow Aaron's tip about removing the top & it facilitated removing the plugs. Great having a lit panel again!
Thanks, VERY helpful. PITA was getting it out of my 2003 Montana. Few enhancements 1) Marked one of the two groups of wires with a blue marker 2) Duct tape over the buttons to hold them in place 3) Placed washers/pennies under each plastic clip to make face removal easier. 4) Radio shacks was out of your bulbs. I used Radio Shack 12V 60 ma Microlamps (2-Pack) #: 272-1092 for $1.99. Slightly brighter .15 Mcp, half the cost, twice the life 10,000hrs. 5) Left white rubbers off bulbs
start to finish, it took about 35 minutes. I used a vacuum to pull the excess solder out of the left pin points of each bulb replaced then heated the one with the solder and set my bulb in at the correct depth, then flipped the board over and filled them in with fresh solder and reassembled. I did notice the bulbs you recommended are very dim compared to the oem ones, but they were in stock and immediately available (3 in each store, strange coincidence....). Thanks for the quick how to, can now see my display again (2000 Pontiac Bonneville SLE)
Great video, did the repair and it does work. Taking the top panel off the radio is great advice because reinstalling the ribbon type cablesare very tough otherwise. I needed someone to hold the board upright so I could apply the soldering iron from one side while removing the old bulbs from the other side. Same with installing new ones, the hole in the board is so small and the bulb wire is so thin, be careful and patient. I applied the iron to one side and pushed the new bulb wire through from the other side because using a solder sucker didn’t remove all the old solder and the hole kept plugging up. I used a 60W weller soldering iron, I don’t think a 25W will be hot enough. Any more than 65W and you might damage the board.
Completed the project today thanks to the confidence gained from this video! Add to that 25% off thanks to the upcoming unfortunate demise of Radio Shack and I have a happy girlfriend and wallet. Heated the solder from the rear and reusued most of it to stick in the new ones (272-1154). *Only thing I'll note here is that the process of removing the panel cover in the car is pretty straightforward except that I almost removed something that looks like a speedo cable located in the lower left corner by yanking on it as I initially did not know how it came off (stupidly thought it was like an antenna cable). :( ....it does not need to be removed and I just left it on as I did not know what it is/how it woks, etc. Anyway, did not use the rubber condom deals (would have been slightly loose anyway as these are smaller bulbs) and the light shined fine and was even on the display without them. Also followed other's advice and kept faceplate face down when removed to keep the buttons in place and also took off he bottom radio panel to get to the connector easily. Used fingernail to pry the connector up on the corners. Thanks for putting this out there.....many more of these on their way out in the coming years, I'm sure!
Oh no, what will we do without Radio Shack? Guy at Car Quest said to head over to Fry's its what Radio Shack used to be. Well, couldnt find any lights I needed there... Radio Shack had them.
Thanks much for this. I got a great used 2007 Vibe but the one thing that didn't work was the radio display. I followed the video and got it fixed - I read elsewhere that the RadioShack bulbs don't last, so I got the full voltage ones from the Corvette Radios and TV Repair place online - more expensive $20 for 3 but they got them to me in 2 days and hopefully they'll last.
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to do the replacement, but the 272-1154 bulbs are not available. I used the 272-1092 bulbs instead, as suggested by Patrick Mitchell (Thanks to you too), and it's perfect now.
Thanks for this great video, I took my matrix for airbag recall at Toyota and when they returned the car the light in the stereo and auto gear shift died. This will help me.
Thanks so much for this great video. Everything fine, except hard to find the bulb. Will need to order. Radio Shack site doesn't say Krypton though, rather: 12V/50mA Incandescent Bulb Model:272-1154 | Catalog #: 272-1154
Where is the second video located? I have replaced the bulbs in my wife's vibe's radio and am excited to see if it all works now. Thanks for this video, it was nice to know it was as easy as that and saved us money. Question: Is there a positive and negative side to these bulbs?
TY, for the tips and how to fix the display of the radio. It sure was easy after the explanation and saved a lot of $. Do you know the type of bulbs needed for replacement that light up the bottom of the radio, one of them is larger then the other 3. Thanks again for any input and great video.
⁉️ question... First, thanks for the vid. I'm not getting full display despite all three lights powering up. I did find that the tabs that had to be twisted for the display to come off are contact points and if they don't have good continuity, more of the display is out. Is that all it could be? I've checked em all with the multimeter and they all have continuity. Should I just work on the contacts more??? Thanks guys!
I did this for my 2005 sunfire, my radio is different and only used one bulb. I used Radio Shack's PN 272-1154 and it worked, cost about 2.66 here in Albuquerque NM.
Thanks for a very informative video. Do you by any chance remember how many light bulbs are there for illuminating the bottom row of buttons (eq, traffic, bal/fad, etc.)? Mine have burned out and I'd like to get the replacements before opening up the stereo.
thanks for the helpful video . i was successful with part#272 1092 from radio shack for all 3 lamps (they are $1.99 for pkg of 2) . Also removing bottom panel and cassette player base made it easy to disconnect and reconnect harness , just wish i didn't rip out 4 wires from the harness that goes to chip board . now i need a video on how to repair that :{
Hi, i like your video, but i have some question how do you know which voltage and amperage are burn-out bulbs? When i measure voltage on the circuit board it is one reading, when i put one new bulb, voltage reading is different, with second new bulb, again different value. How to determine which amperage are burned bulbs? Could 12V 25mA bulb exchange a 6V 50mA bulb, are they equal? Some bulbs are in serial connection, if one burns out, second will not work too. I tried to measure some voltage and amperage, to calculate current, resistance, but it is too confusing to me.
Replaced the bulbs (All three of which were burnt out, could tell be looking at the filaments), put the new ones in…none of them worked. Took a new bulb out and held it to the connections of a working bulb elsewhere on the board and it lights up… any further ideas?
Poor solder connection? All the bulbs in the radio that can be "dimmed" with the knob on the dash are connected to the same voltage source. Maybe you "broke" one of the solder traces on the circuit board while removing a bulb? I found it to be a little difficult to get my bulbs out. I used solder wick first but still had to apply more heat with my iron then I felt comfortable with while trying to pull the bulbs out.
You can find a LED12BPB-DC, 12V/50mA, blue, 100,000 hr. life at normanlamps. Those LEDs are 0.50 watts whereas the ones in this post don't have a wattage spec. The LED may be too bright at 500 mcd. The 12V/50mA incandescent in this post are 0.12 mscp. LED intensity is specified in terms of millicandela (mcd) and is not comparable to mean spherical candlepower (MSCP) values used to quantity the light produced by incandescent lamps. Would need to convert to a common unit to compare.
I'm holding the package in front of me when I'm saying it. I guess the point is, is that the bulb is a 50 ma bulb. I hope you found the tutorial helpful.
Not that I am aware. The reason has to do with the current going to the bulbs. I was unable to find leds that matched the power output. I'm not saying it won't work as I haven't tried, but if the voltage or amperage is too far off of what is produced then those leds will burn out.
I used the Radio Shack 272-1154 x3 For the 6 buttons (3 Lights on bottom of panel, these bulbs are a little dimmer) Then I used 2 pack (4bulbs) of 272-1092 for the LCD backlights, and the volume/tune light. These lights are a bit brighter... Even better would have to use mini bulb 2162 for the 3 LCD back lights, and Volume/tune light. 14VDC rating, longer life, and bright as the factory bulbs. Didnt want to wait for them to be shipped, as these arent sold at radio shack period.
Anyone tried LED12BPB-DC from normanlamps mentioned by Don G? IS it much brighter than original lamps? Asking because I need to replace only one and would like to match the brightness as close as possible.
Replace all 3 if you are going to do 1... They other 2 will go out SOON! Also those bulbs say blue... That would make the LCD Purple Not Red. You would need RED LEDs.
For longer bulb life, use 14 volt bulbs (when the engine is running, the battery is typically being charged at or above 13.8 volts). I got a dozen at Jameco.com, part number: GS7382, SKU: 210032, Description: Lamp, #7382, Incandescent. And, a big THANK YOU TO JAMES D for posting this video. Just out of curiosity, does anyone have a guess why, when I put the radio back in the car it still had the correct time and remembered all my programmed stations? If I disconnect the battery for any reason, it always "resets" my settings. Strange, I had the radio out for over an hour.
Rather then trying to use pliers to remove the mini bolts on the back use a 1/8" socket screwdriver. Using pliers has led to lots of pinched fingers and cursing. I have been fixing these radios like this for years. Also before removing the board off the face, place it "face down" on a cloth on your work area. This will keep your buttons in place & eliminate taking a picture of it.
Radio Shack 12V Microlamps (2-Pack), Model: 272-1092, 12V/60mA, 10,000 hr. life, 0.15 brightness. In stock at store. @ $1.99 for two. Versus: Radio Shack 12V Incandescent Bulb, Model: 272-1154, 12V/50mA, 5000 hr. life, 0.12 brightness. Hard to find in store. @ $2.49 for one.
Any one replace the back light bulbs with leds? Would like to change it and not have to worry about changeing it again in the rest of the life of my Aztek
Thanks for the message back. Everything works great! A note for anyone else going through this repair: when you're putting the faceplate back on and trying to connect those two cables to the board again, take off the top panel for easier access. That makes it sooooo much easier. It took me a couple minutes of frustration to figure that one out. Also, be very careful with the solder. It's very easy to put too much as the leads are very small. I also reused the old rubber caps from the old bulbs.
This just saved me a lot of money at the repair shop getting it done.
Thank you!
Thank you very much for posting this. Our 2003 Vibe's radio went blank and this info saved the day. Got some 60ma "Grain of Wheat" bulbs and they work perfectly. One note, the originals had a silicone or some kind of rubber sleeve covering each bulb. They looked like LEDs, but felt rubbery. Turns out the sleeve will roll off the bulbs. Assume they act as a light diffuser, so put these sleeves over the new bulbs. Used a solder sucker to clear the holes to insert the new bulbs. Definitely need a good soldering iron with a small tip for these. Not very difficult and saves the money of buying a replacement radio. Again, thank you!
YES YES YESSSS!!!!! I have driven this car for nearly 4 long years, and finally I can read the flipping time!!! I literally have never soldered anything (had to go buy an iron) and I was able to do it on the first try thanks to this video.
Thanks for that, was very nice to be able to walk in and get what I needed. They were like 2 dollars a piece at Radio Shack. I noticed that the one working bulb was starting to darken so i figured I would just replace all 3 at that price.
This is a wonderful video . It gave me enough confidence to tackle this project. And a success it was. The wife is so happy she can see what station she is on and most of all she has a clock now. Took about an hour and yes that was with the trip to radio shack. Thank you for the knowledge!!!!
Thank you, with this video you made it simple to repair. The dealer told me it was not possible to fix. Fooled them. Thanks again
Thanks for this video it gave me the confidence to repair my radio after the dealership said the radio would have to be replaced at a cost of $500.
The tips about using duct tape & removing the bottom panel to get to the wire connectors are right on. The two knobs pull straight off and need to be removed too.
A tip about removing the bulbs, because I couldn't heat both wires at the same time, I used a pair of tweezers to grab one wire, heat it and pull it out then repeated on the second wire. Same when installing the new bulb, melt the solder, push the wire through & repeat with the other wire.
Another tip. Find a way to hold the board vertical so you have both hands free to work on it, maybe a couple of thick books. The 272-1092 bulbs worked and the display looks like it did when new.
Masterful. thank you
It's also easy to take the metal top off the radio which makes removing and replacing the circuit board connectors a breeze. Also when removing the LCD display be sure to pull it straight out there are plastic locating pins that go in the circuit board that it's possible to bend/break. I suspect these are critical to the working of the display.
James, Thanks for sharing your expertise. Did this last eve. and it went off without a hitch. I did follow Aaron's tip about removing the top & it facilitated removing the plugs. Great having a lit panel again!
Thanks, VERY helpful. PITA was getting it out of my 2003 Montana.
Few enhancements
1) Marked one of the two groups of wires with a blue marker
2) Duct tape over the buttons to hold them in place
3) Placed washers/pennies under each plastic clip to make face removal easier.
4) Radio shacks was out of your bulbs. I used Radio Shack 12V 60 ma Microlamps (2-Pack) #: 272-1092 for $1.99. Slightly brighter .15 Mcp, half the cost, twice the life 10,000hrs.
5) Left white rubbers off bulbs
start to finish, it took about 35 minutes. I used a vacuum to pull the excess solder out of the left pin points of each bulb replaced then heated the one with the solder and set my bulb in at the correct depth, then flipped the board over and filled them in with fresh solder and reassembled. I did notice the bulbs you recommended are very dim compared to the oem ones, but they were in stock and immediately available (3 in each store, strange coincidence....). Thanks for the quick how to, can now see my display again (2000 Pontiac Bonneville SLE)
Just replaced mine. Thanks for the video. Gave me the courage to give it a try. Glad I did. I can see the clock now!
If you use some masking tape to tape the front buttons to the plate, it prevents them from coming off. Thanks for the vid
Dude thanks a lot....
Little stuff like this video are a great help
Great video, did the repair and it does work. Taking the top panel off the radio is great advice because reinstalling the ribbon type cablesare very tough otherwise. I needed someone to hold the board upright so I could apply the soldering iron from one side while removing the old bulbs from the other side. Same with installing new ones, the hole in the board is so small and the bulb wire is so thin, be careful and patient. I applied the iron to one side and pushed the new bulb wire through from the other side because using a solder sucker didn’t remove all the old solder and the hole kept plugging up. I used a 60W weller soldering iron, I don’t think a 25W will be hot enough. Any more than 65W and you might damage the board.
Completed the project today thanks to the confidence gained from this video! Add to that 25% off thanks to the upcoming unfortunate demise of Radio Shack and I have a happy girlfriend and wallet. Heated the solder from the rear and reusued most of it to stick in the new ones (272-1154). *Only thing I'll note here is that the process of removing the panel cover in the car is pretty straightforward except that I almost removed something that looks like a speedo cable located in the lower left corner by yanking on it as I initially did not know how it came off (stupidly thought it was like an antenna cable). :( ....it does not need to be removed and I just left it on as I did not know what it is/how it woks, etc. Anyway, did not use the rubber condom deals (would have been slightly loose anyway as these are smaller bulbs) and the light shined fine and was even on the display without them. Also followed other's advice and kept faceplate face down when removed to keep the buttons in place and also took off he bottom radio panel to get to the connector easily. Used fingernail to pry the connector up on the corners. Thanks for putting this out there.....many more of these on their way out in the coming years, I'm sure!
Oh no, what will we do without Radio Shack? Guy at Car Quest said to head over to Fry's its what Radio Shack used to be. Well, couldnt find any lights I needed there... Radio Shack had them.
Thanks much for this. I got a great used 2007 Vibe but the one thing that didn't work was the radio display. I followed the video and got it fixed - I read elsewhere that the RadioShack bulbs don't last, so I got the full voltage ones from the Corvette Radios and TV Repair place online - more expensive $20 for 3 but they got them to me in 2 days and hopefully they'll last.
thanks Man!!! worked like a charm for my 2003 Pontiac Aztek.
My radio and cd both work. The numbers light up but not the box with radio station or time?
Thank you so much for this video. I was able to do the replacement, but the 272-1154 bulbs are not available. I used the 272-1092 bulbs instead, as suggested by Patrick Mitchell (Thanks to you too), and it's perfect now.
Thanks for this great video, I took my matrix for airbag recall at Toyota and when they returned the car the light in the stereo and auto gear shift died. This will help me.
Thanks so much for this great video. Everything fine, except hard to find the bulb. Will need to order. Radio Shack site doesn't say Krypton though, rather:
12V/50mA Incandescent Bulb
Model:272-1154
| Catalog #: 272-1154
Where is the second video located? I have replaced the bulbs in my wife's vibe's radio and am excited to see if it all works now. Thanks for this video, it was nice to know it was as easy as that and saved us money. Question: Is there a positive and negative side to these bulbs?
TY, for the tips and how to fix the display of the radio. It sure was easy after the explanation and saved a lot of $.
Do you know the type of bulbs needed for replacement that light up the bottom of the radio, one of them is larger then the other 3. Thanks again for any input and great video.
I have an '06 Grand Prix. Any chance the replacement bulbs will be the same? (the led screen looks just like the one in the video.
⁉️ question...
First, thanks for the vid.
I'm not getting full display despite all three lights powering up. I did find that the tabs that had to be twisted for the display to come off are contact points and if they don't have good continuity, more of the display is out. Is that all it could be? I've checked em all with the multimeter and they all have continuity. Should I just work on the contacts more???
Thanks guys!
I did this for my 2005 sunfire, my radio is different and only used one bulb. I used Radio Shack's PN 272-1154 and it worked, cost about 2.66 here in Albuquerque NM.
Thanks for a very informative video. Do you by any chance remember how many light bulbs are there for illuminating the bottom row of buttons (eq, traffic, bal/fad, etc.)? Mine have burned out and I'd like to get the replacements before opening up the stereo.
Thanks for your video. When I reinstall the radio will it be locked with the antitheft lock?
Cheers
The part no# at Radio Shack for the bulbs is 272-1154. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the tip!
In the video James D you say the bulbs are 12v by pin 15 ma-amp. Now in the follow up you say that they are 12v-50ma big difference.
thanks for the helpful video . i was successful with part#272 1092 from radio shack for all 3 lamps (they are $1.99 for pkg of 2) . Also removing bottom panel and cassette player base made it easy to disconnect and reconnect harness , just wish i didn't rip out 4 wires from the harness that goes to chip board . now i need a video on how to repair that :{
thanks so much!
Hi,
i like your video, but i have some question
how do you know which voltage and amperage are burn-out bulbs?
When i measure voltage on the circuit board it is one reading, when i put one new bulb, voltage reading is different, with second new bulb, again different value.
How to determine which amperage are burned bulbs?
Could 12V 25mA bulb exchange a 6V 50mA bulb, are they equal?
Some bulbs are in serial connection, if one burns out, second will not work too.
I tried to measure some voltage and amperage, to calculate current, resistance, but it is too confusing to me.
The radio came with 12v 50ma bulbs from the factory.
@@jimkermitd4518 How can you determine Amperage when all bulbs are burnt?
I don’t believe you need to. Just replace them with factory OEM bulbs.
@@jimkermitd4518 Problem here is to find any kind of 6 or 12V bulb :). Thanks
how did you get the volume/tuner knobs off? I took out the 5 tiny bolts and can't get the panel to seperate by the knobs...
nevermind, pretty obvious.
Replaced the bulbs (All three of which were burnt out, could tell be looking at the filaments), put the new ones in…none of them worked. Took a new bulb out and held it to the connections of a working bulb elsewhere on the board and it lights up… any further ideas?
Poor solder connection? All the bulbs in the radio that can be "dimmed" with the knob on the dash are connected to the same voltage source. Maybe you "broke" one of the solder traces on the circuit board while removing a bulb? I found it to be a little difficult to get my bulbs out. I used solder wick first but still had to apply more heat with my iron then I felt comfortable with while trying to pull the bulbs out.
Denny Goethe I don't think so.. But maybe, all of the bulbs seem tight. Maybe I'll pull it out again and add some solder. Thanks for the idea!
If I remove radio to fix, will it lock? And need to go to dealer to unlock?
taking these radios out will not lock them down I had mine out for 4 hours yesterday put it back in and it even had the stations still set!
No it won't. ;)
Ignacio Guerrero only if you put it in a different car. matched by VIN numbers!
You can find a LED12BPB-DC, 12V/50mA, blue, 100,000 hr. life at normanlamps. Those LEDs are 0.50 watts whereas the ones in this post don't have a wattage spec. The LED may be too bright at 500 mcd. The 12V/50mA incandescent in this post are 0.12 mscp. LED intensity is specified in terms of millicandela (mcd) and is not comparable to mean spherical candlepower (MSCP) values used to quantity the light produced by incandescent lamps.
Would need to convert to a common unit to compare.
I can't find these. Has anyone tried them?
I wonder if you can just get a new faceplate?
I'm holding the package in front of me when I'm saying it. I guess the point is, is that the bulb is a 50 ma bulb. I hope you found the tutorial helpful.
Not that I am aware. The reason has to do with the current going to the bulbs. I was unable to find leds that matched the power output. I'm not saying it won't work as I haven't tried, but if the voltage or amperage is too far off of what is produced then those leds will burn out.
I just replaced all three lights with white LEDs with series 390 ohm resistors.
Please check out my posting "2003 Toyota Matrix radio mod". I replaced the bulbs with flat square LED's -smile face!
Awesome! Yeah when I made this video radio shack still existed as a place you could walk into, LEDs would work better I think.
I used the Radio Shack 272-1154 x3 For the 6 buttons (3 Lights on bottom of panel, these bulbs are a little dimmer) Then I used 2 pack (4bulbs) of 272-1092 for the LCD backlights, and the volume/tune light. These lights are a bit brighter... Even better would have to use mini bulb 2162 for the 3 LCD back lights, and Volume/tune light. 14VDC rating, longer life, and bright as the factory bulbs. Didnt want to wait for them to be shipped, as these arent sold at radio shack period.
Edit: OP said that polarity doesn't matter for these bulbs.
how much to replace them for me LOL.
Anyone tried LED12BPB-DC from normanlamps mentioned by Don G? IS it much brighter than original lamps? Asking because I need to replace only one and would like to match the brightness as close as possible.
Replace all 3 if you are going to do 1... They other 2 will go out SOON! Also those bulbs say blue... That would make the LCD Purple Not Red. You would need RED LEDs.
Thanks! You were right, I had to replace all 3.
Listen again, I did say 50ma.
For longer bulb life, use 14 volt bulbs (when the engine is running, the battery is typically being charged at or above 13.8 volts). I got a dozen at Jameco.com, part number: GS7382, SKU: 210032, Description: Lamp, #7382, Incandescent. And, a big THANK YOU TO JAMES D for posting this video. Just out of curiosity, does anyone have a guess why, when I put the radio back in the car it still had the correct time and remembered all my programmed stations? If I disconnect the battery for any reason, it always "resets" my settings. Strange, I had the radio out for over an hour.
James i listen 4 times and my wife listen and we heard teen not fifty.
Maybe you should a family member to listen.
Rather then trying to use pliers to remove the mini bolts on the back use a 1/8" socket screwdriver. Using pliers has led to lots of pinched fingers and cursing. I have been fixing these radios like this for years.
Also before removing the board off the face, place it "face down" on a cloth on your work area. This will keep your buttons in place & eliminate taking a picture of it.
Radio Shack 12V Microlamps (2-Pack), Model: 272-1092, 12V/60mA, 10,000 hr. life, 0.15 brightness. In stock at store. @ $1.99 for two.
Versus: Radio Shack 12V Incandescent Bulb, Model: 272-1154, 12V/50mA, 5000 hr. life, 0.12 brightness. Hard to find in store. @ $2.49 for one.
Any one replace the back light bulbs with leds? Would like to change it and not have to worry about changeing it again in the rest of the life of my Aztek
I bought same bulbs at Adtronique for .49 cents
You missed a crucial step on getting the radio out of the car
You can find a LED, 12V/50mA, blue, 100,000 hr. life at normanlamps
Jordan you and your wife must have crappy speakers.... I heard FIFTY as he was reading it from the package.
way to much work!