Brilliant tractor, used to drive one in the late 1960’s. The power take off would run a static corn trashing machine all day, the straw from that machine would provide roofs for thatched barns and houses. It was a very picturesque time to live, but it was very labour intensive and hard work.
Idling would tend to fill the bottom of the exhaust with lubricating oil. Reving it up would blow the oil up the exhaust and plaster the driver or, if a heavy load was applied either through the drawbar or, commonly at the time, the belt pulley, the exhaust could catch fire and an orange flame would be seen out of the chimney top.
Try hand-cranking it to start in the cold and the cartridge will seem like the best idea ever. It’s actually simpler and more reliable than an electric starter, and means there’s no added expense of a starter or a generator to charge a battery.
Starting them on the cartridge is sore on them and it's the lazy man's way. Wouldn't start them without the handle. It didn't seem to run right for a good few minutes.
The initial Poor / uneven running is due to lack of compression, using cartridges to start de-cokes the top of the piston (not good on two stroke engines) and can also crack piston rings....
Some postwar jets into the 60's used cartridge start (essentially a giant blank shotgun shell) e.g. the English Electric Canberra / Martin B57 th-cam.com/video/g9fkmqPHTDE/w-d-xo.html
Wie geht das starten des Marshall Traktors. Ich habe einen glühstift gesehen. Aber wie kommt die Energie zu Stande, die den Traktor anwirft? Keiner dreht ne Kurbel. Ein Schlag auf einen Stift an der linken Seite ziemlich hoch oben. Für mich unerklärlich, dass der Schlag die startenetgie auslöst, wer kann mir die Technik erklären? Ich vermute einen liegenden Einzylinder Zweitakt Dieselmotor. Lg.ff.
@spentacle... patronenstarter. Hör ich zum ersten mal. Phantastische sache. Ich nehme an man muss den kolben auf oberen todpunkt oder leicht drüber stellen. Es gibt eine kurbel zum anstecken an die kurbelwelle, aber man wirft den motor nicht damit an. Der patronenstsrter erzeugt einen zündfunken. Der patronenstsrter muss auch die energie in den zylinder bringen, die entflammt wird, eine explosion auslöst und den kolben einmal nach unten oder nach hinten wirft. Die weitere kompression muss durch den schwung aufgebaut werden. Ich glaube ich hab die technik verstanden. Von außen betrachtet schaut der motor einem lanz bulldog ähnlich. Der seitlich hoch ragende auspuff, sehr volumig. Ich denke der motor ist ein diesel zweitakt. Danke für die info, spentacle.! Lg.ff. Die technik mit dem patronenstart hat sich in europa scheinbar nicht verbreitet.
Fabricating these starter cartridges isn't simple. They at not "blanks", but a carefully prepared combination of a fast burning "initiator" powder topped by a very slow burning propellant that produces a large volume of gas, required to displace the piston and begin turning the engine.
Hi! Well, to tell the truth, the experimental charges that I have assembled have not been tested yet. We have a Field Marshall at the restoration shop where I work, and I expect to be working on it over the next few months. I am hesitant to publish my current, untested load data, but I will return here with my results once we have thoroughly tested them. Please be safe! Karl
This is what I found: In a nutshell, Prime the case as you would a shotshell, then use 22 GR of PPP black powder up next to the primer to act as an ignition charge. Seperate that with one or two layers of tissue paper. (we use toilet tissue torn to size so it will keep the powders seperate) next add the main charge, we use 170 GR of ADI, AR 2213 SC big bore rifle powder which will pretty much fill up the cartridge ( this is the old Mullwex of Mullwaler powder). Put another 1 or 2 layers of tissue on top to seal it and then crimp the cartridge. You need the top layer of tissue to stop the charge leaking out the crimp, in a shotshell the pellets and wad are under the crimp, but in a starting cartridge you only have powder and that can leak out. The FFF black powder is a USA spec powder, last time Norm could't get that and we have been using PPP instead. We have been told this is a European equivilent and seems to work well. DON'T what ever you do use "only" black powder in the shell, black powder is fast burning and if you fill up the cartridge with it, you will have serious pressure buildup problems. The AR 2213 SC is a slow burning big bore rifle powder and that is what you need for the main charge. We had this recipe given to us by a fellow club member who used to get his elderly brother to reload them for him but when his brother could no longer do it we took on doing it for him. Since then we have used it successfuly to start 2 Field Marshall tractors about 50 times with no problems. One of the tractors is in the Avondale Museum in Beverley and prior to us getting this brew one of the other blokes in the group reloaded some that did work, but gave a heck of a "BANG" when fired (we don't know what he used), these just give a gentle "WHOOM" and don't seem to be very harsh at all. The tissue seems to be burnt in the starting procedure but only use the minimum amount you can get away with, one or two layers torn to the size of the shell ! Like I said to the T.O.M.M. blokes, be careful, you only get one chance to not blow yourself up ! Does this make any sense to you?
Yes. What you say makes perfect sense! In My Opinion, (for what it's worth) you have a very good understanding of the requirements of that starting charge. The ONLY reason I am hesitant to publish the data I settled on is because it is UNTESTED BY MYSELF. From all the sources I corresponded with, the replies (when they would actually volunteer any information! LOL) described formulas very similar to the one you mentioned. I.E. small BP charge to ignite a large slow-burning (smokeless) rifle powder. I assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of the following information: I used Winchester AA shells, CCI 209 primers. 11 grains of Hodgdon's SE7EN FFFg as the initiator - this is apparently preferred over black powder- and 180 grains of Vihtavouri N170 for the main charge. As I said, this load HAS NOT YET BEEN TESTED, but I hope to have results for you over the next few weeks. Karl
Only a qualified numpty woul use a shotgun shell to start a tractor. They use a power start cartridge that happens to be 12 guage with special powder load and wadding
Great Video, my Dad owned one of these, I remember he started it with the cartridge! they were fantastic tractors
Thank you for posting. I'm happy to see a beautiful restored tractors 👍
These field marshal tractors are Beautiful machines.
Couldn't you restart it with the hand crank? If the engine was still warm maybe you wouldn't need to relight the "glow plug"?
Brilliant tractor, used to drive one in the late 1960’s. The power take off would run a static corn trashing machine all day, the straw from that machine would provide roofs for thatched barns and houses. It was a very picturesque time to live, but it was very labour intensive and hard work.
Wonderful old school tractor have friend who has one great machines
gorgeous machine!
Once started they were best left to run for the day, it was cheaper to run during a lunch break than to spend another cartridge on a restart.
They can be started by hand
I would like to see the towing competition with a modern tractor of corresponding nominal horsepower.
A BEAUTY TO BEHOLD
Они прекрасны !! 😊👍
They look like a good work horse and run and run. Is their any danger of a run away of the engine?
That's why you had to get up at 3am back then because it took 2 hours to get the tractor started
Very cool
Idling would tend to fill the bottom of the exhaust with lubricating oil. Reving it up would blow the oil up the exhaust and plaster the driver or, if a heavy load was applied either through the drawbar or, commonly at the time, the belt pulley, the exhaust could catch fire and an orange flame would be seen out of the chimney top.
That seems like a pretty crazy way to start a tractor. I could understand that in the 20s, but it seems like backwards technology for 1950.
Meadow Farmer field marshals were a 40s design. The last of the series 3 got the option of starters
Try hand-cranking it to start in the cold and the cartridge will seem like the best idea ever. It’s actually simpler and more reliable than an electric starter, and means there’s no added expense of a starter or a generator to charge a battery.
They were certainly built in England, In the County of Lincolnshire
Marvelous
Starting them on the cartridge is sore on them and it's the lazy man's way. Wouldn't start them without the handle. It didn't seem to run right for a good few minutes.
The initial Poor / uneven running is due to lack of compression, using cartridges to start de-cokes the top of the piston (not good on two stroke engines) and can also crack piston rings....
Well yet again the pellets are literally shooting the piston.
@@wildman510 You're supposed to use a blank
Some World war two airplanes could be started with a shotgun shell also.
James Stewart flight of the phoenix movie use a shot gun shell to start the engine.
Some postwar jets into the 60's used cartridge start (essentially a giant blank shotgun shell)
e.g. the English Electric Canberra / Martin B57 th-cam.com/video/g9fkmqPHTDE/w-d-xo.html
Called a “Coffman Starter”
It needs anew set of reed valves. In the air intake
Wie geht das starten des Marshall Traktors. Ich habe einen glühstift gesehen. Aber wie kommt die Energie zu Stande, die den Traktor anwirft? Keiner dreht ne Kurbel. Ein Schlag auf einen Stift an der linken Seite ziemlich hoch oben. Für mich unerklärlich, dass der Schlag die startenetgie auslöst, wer kann mir die Technik erklären?
Ich vermute einen liegenden Einzylinder Zweitakt Dieselmotor. Lg.ff.
Google Coffman starter
Patronenstarter
@spentacle... patronenstarter. Hör ich zum ersten mal. Phantastische sache. Ich nehme an man muss den kolben auf oberen todpunkt oder leicht drüber stellen. Es gibt eine kurbel zum anstecken an die kurbelwelle, aber man wirft den motor nicht damit an. Der patronenstsrter erzeugt einen zündfunken. Der patronenstsrter muss auch die energie in den zylinder bringen, die entflammt wird, eine explosion auslöst und den kolben einmal nach unten oder nach hinten wirft. Die weitere kompression muss durch den schwung aufgebaut werden. Ich glaube ich hab die technik verstanden. Von außen betrachtet schaut der motor einem lanz bulldog ähnlich. Der seitlich hoch ragende auspuff, sehr volumig. Ich denke der motor ist ein diesel zweitakt. Danke für die info, spentacle.! Lg.ff. Die technik mit dem patronenstart hat sich in europa scheinbar nicht verbreitet.
I need to be started in the morning with a shotgun shell full of coffee.
Капсульный трактор. А если снаряд от 37 мм пушки засунуть и стукнуть , наверное мощность двигателя резко возрастет.)))
Do you reload your own cartridges? Can you tell me how many grains of black powder?
Fabricating these starter cartridges isn't simple. They at not "blanks", but a carefully prepared combination
of a fast burning "initiator" powder topped by a very slow burning propellant that produces a large volume
of gas, required to displace the piston and begin turning the engine.
Can you give me the number of grains of each and loading procedure?
Hi! Well, to tell the truth, the experimental charges that I have assembled have not been tested yet. We have a Field Marshall at the restoration shop where I work, and I expect to be working on it over the next few months. I am hesitant to publish my current, untested load data, but I will return here with my results once we have thoroughly tested them. Please be safe!
Karl
This is what I found: In a nutshell,
Prime the case as you would a shotshell, then use 22 GR of PPP black powder up next to the primer to act as an ignition charge. Seperate that with one or two layers of tissue paper. (we use toilet tissue torn to size so it will keep the powders seperate) next add the main charge, we use 170 GR of ADI, AR 2213 SC big bore rifle powder which will pretty much fill up the cartridge ( this is the old Mullwex of Mullwaler powder). Put another 1 or 2 layers of tissue on top to seal it and then crimp the cartridge. You need the top layer of tissue to stop the charge leaking out the crimp, in a shotshell the pellets and wad are under the crimp, but in a starting cartridge you only have powder and that can leak out.
The FFF black powder is a USA spec powder, last time Norm could't get that and we have been using PPP instead. We have been told this is a European equivilent and seems to work well. DON'T what ever you do use "only" black powder in the shell, black powder is fast burning and if you fill up the cartridge with it, you will have serious pressure buildup problems. The AR 2213 SC is a slow burning big bore rifle powder and that is what you need for the main charge.
We had this recipe given to us by a fellow club member who used to get his elderly brother to reload them for him but when his brother could no longer do it we took on doing it for him. Since then we have used it successfuly to start 2 Field Marshall tractors about 50 times with no problems. One of the tractors is in the Avondale Museum in Beverley and prior to us getting this brew one of the other blokes in the group reloaded some that did work, but gave a heck of a "BANG" when fired (we don't know what he used), these just give a gentle "WHOOM" and don't seem to be very harsh at all.
The tissue seems to be burnt in the starting procedure but only use the minimum amount you can get away with, one or two layers torn to the size of the shell !
Like I said to the T.O.M.M. blokes, be careful, you only get one chance to not blow yourself up ! Does this make any sense to you?
Yes. What you say makes perfect sense! In My Opinion, (for what it's worth) you have a very good understanding of the requirements of that starting charge. The ONLY reason I am hesitant to publish the data I settled on is because it is UNTESTED BY MYSELF. From all the sources I corresponded with, the replies (when they would actually volunteer any information! LOL) described formulas very similar to the one you mentioned. I.E. small BP charge to ignite a large slow-burning (smokeless) rifle powder.
I assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of the following information:
I used Winchester AA shells, CCI 209 primers.
11 grains of Hodgdon's SE7EN FFFg as the initiator - this is apparently preferred over black powder-
and 180 grains of Vihtavouri N170 for the main charge.
As I said, this load HAS NOT YET BEEN TESTED, but I hope to have results for you over the next few weeks.
Karl
A classic British tractor. The Union Flag is upside down though, unfortunately.
Upside down Union Flag denotes that there is a problem maybe they used a 12 guage shotgun shell and the shot busted the motor.
Hello! Could you let me use your video with Russian translation on my channel, please?
Yes that’s fine.
@@kajd400 Thank You very much! Sorry for disturbing...
I tried starting my car this way and it wouldn't start, so I called my mechanic to come out to look at it....He said the engine was shot....
Ha, I like it, very clever.
Only a qualified numpty woul use a shotgun shell to start a tractor. They use a power start cartridge that happens to be 12 guage with special powder load and wadding
No wonder they almost lost the war
almost lost a war, how about all the wars they did win.
Холостой ход 2 оборота в минуту....
Eco friendly tractor....