How to Start Your First Resin 3D Print: The Absolute Beginners Guide!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
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➡kit.co/SPR/beginner-s-resin-3... (Kit/Amazon)
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Resin 3D Printing: The Absolute Beginners Guide!
Are you just getting started with Resin 3D Printing and need help getting things set up? If so you've come to the right place! Follow along with the step by step guide and you'll learn everything you need to know to get started with your Resin 3D Printer!
As always if you have any questions about 3D printing feel free to post them in the comments or reach out to me on Facebook, Discord, Etc.😊
🔔If you liked this video please consider subscribing! ➡th-cam.com/users/SlicePrintR...
#sliceprintroleplay #3dprinting #resin3dprinting
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Chapters
0:00 Video Intro
0:22 Thanks FanteZi!
0:31 What do you need to start Resin 3D Printing?
1:44 How to test the LCD screen on your Resin 3D Printer.
3:22 What is a slicer for Resin 3D Printing?
4:33 How to add a printer in Lychee Slicer.
4:55 How to add a resin profile in Lychee Slicer.
6:01 How to add a printer in Chitubox.
6:18 How to import models into a slicer.
6:53 How to arrange models for printing in your slicer.
10:04 What is a pre-supported model vs a supportless model?
11:16 How to slice files and export them for printing in Lychee Slicer.
12:02 How to fill the vat in your Resin 3D Printer.
14:01 How to start a print on a Resin 3D Printer.
15:14 Thanks for watching!
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Recommended Starter Settings for Lychee Slicer / Chitubox.
❗Please note❗
I am giving NO guarantee that these settings will work on every printer with every resin. The settings below are just a good place to start.
Additionally, I recommend starting with a standard resin. I have a few options listed on the kit link above. You can certainly use a Tough or ABS Like resin, but those can sometimes be a little finicky. For
❗Please note❗
These settings are for mono screen printers. If your printer has an RGB screen use,
Exposure Time / Bottom Exposure Time: 50s
Exposure Time: 7s
All other settings should be the same as below.
❗Please note❗
In Chitubox change the "Waiting Mode During Printing" to "Light off delay."
For normal size mono screen resin printers like Elegoo Mars 2, Sonic Mini, Anycubic Photon Mono, etc, use the settings below.
Lychee on left / Chitubox on right
Bottom/Burn in Layers,
Number of Layers / Layer Count: 4
Exposure Time / Bottom Exposure Time: 30s
Transition Layers Count: 0
Light-Off Delay / Bottom Light Off Delay: 4s
Lift Distance / Bottom Lift Distance: 4mm
Lift Speed / Bottom Lift Speed: 40mm
Normal Layers,
Layer Thickness / Layer Height: 0.05mm
Light-off Delay: 2s
Exposure Time: 3s
Lift Distance 4mm
Speed,
Lift Speed / Lifting Speed: 60mm
Retract Speed: 100mm
For medium size resin printers like the Anycubic Mono X, Sonic Mighty, Elegoo Saturn, etc, use the settings below.
Lychee on left / Chitubox on right
Bottom/Burn in Layers,
Number of Layers / Layer Count: 5
Exposure Time / Bottom Exposure Time: 35s
Transition Layers Count: 0
Light-Off Delay / Bottom Light Off Delay: 6s
Lift Distance / Bottom Lift Distance: 8mm
Lift Speed / Bottom Lift Speed: 40mm
Normal Layers,
Layer Thickness / Layer Height: 0.05mm
Light-off Delay: 4s
Exposure Time: 3.5s
Lift Distance 8mm
Speed,
Lift Speed / Lifting Speed: 60mm
Retract Speed: 100mm
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▶Where to Get Files for 3D Printing & How to Organize Them!
➡ • Where to Get Files for...
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🔥If you'd like to support the work I do and get access to some really cool rewards then please consider joining my Patreon!
➡bit.ly/3E9g22O
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🏹🎲Join a great community of 3D Makers and Tabletop Gamers in the Slice Print Roleplay Facebook Group!
➡bit.ly/395zLSJ
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📧For business-related inquiries please contact me at:
Sliceprintroleplay@gmail.com
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🎇Models/Artists featured in this video
Check out the amazing models from TPK Lab on their Patreon!
Patreon➡ / posts
Check all the great models from Brit Minis on their Patreon and on Thingiverse!
Patreon ➡ / briteminis
Thingiverse➡www.thingiverse.com/britemini...
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🎼Thank you Streambeats for the awesome music!
➡www.streambeats.com/ - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Love the delivery of your narration. Easy to understand and quite relaxing!
Just got my resin printer today, and followed your video. I haven't really seen many with the exposure through paper trick, so that was cool. Thanks a lot for these videos!
Thank you so much for all the help! Starting my first print now!
That's awesome, best of luck!
Extremely helpful thank you for the video!!!!!
Glad you found it helpful!
So now that I've finally bought my first Resin printer, and first 3D printer ever - I've made my way back here to review this video once again. Tyler has been a fantastic guy to chat with and pick his brain about printers and has helped me to not along pick a printer that suits my newb needs, but to help guide me through the process of selecting software and so much more. Thanks for being a good friend and I wish you all the luck in life and with the channel!
I appreciate this comment so much. Thank you! 💚
This video is by far the best beginners guide to resin printing! Thank you! And especially thanks for that last bit of info about pausing 25-35% of the way through your print. I did indeed get nothing on my build plate on my first ever print- but that tip saved me over an hour of waiting for the print to "finish" before noticing.
Thank you so much! I really do try to read all comments on my videos and comments like these are so encouraging! 💚
I'm sorry to hear that your first print failed. If you'd like any help figuring out what happened feel free to join and post about it in my Facebook group. 😊
Thanks so much! Just getting started and this was def some good info.
You are very welcome!
Amazing guide! I wish I had one of this when I started.
Glad to hear that you think it will be helpful for beginners!
Thanks for working so hard on your incredible models!
Thank you, you took away a lot of the anxiety I've been feeling about how to start resin printing.
That's such a huge compliment, thank you for that feedback!
I'm currently waiting for the delivery of my 3dPrinter. I've already got the files I want to print downloaded.
This Video was a gread guide, so i can get started as soon as the postman rings :D Thank you
I’ve had a 3D printer for only a few days and your videos are by far the most concise and comprehensive guides on the platform!
I really appreciate that feedback so much! 💚
You deserve way more subscribers, this is the best beginner tutorial I've seen so far.
Oh wow, thanks so much for the positive feedback!
Thank you so much! Just got my first resin printer.. I hope, after watching this and other zillions videos, everything goes fine... ❤
Oh that's so exciting! What printer did you get?
It's definitely going to be a leaning process so don't be too hard on yourself. If you ever have questions or need help you are always welcome in the Slice Print Roleplay Facebook group. 😊
Thank you for the video!
You are very welcome. I'm glad you found the video helpful! 😊
Thank you so much. This is very helpful.
You are very welcome. 😊
Thank you for this information. I did find it helpful.
Glad to hear it!
Great step by step!
Thanks!
Awesome guide. even if you're not a beginner there are a fair few great tips to be picked up here!
Thanks Ash, I'm really glad you enjoyed the video!
Thank you this great video!!
You are very welcome. I hope you found it helpful!
best started guide out there .i just sub and will show to my brother that he get a flashforge 2k and was having trouble to star printing your video will definitely help him...
I really appreciate the positive feedback and support!
This was VERY helpful
I'm really glad to hear that!
Thanks man for this beginners guide. I'm about to start printing and this video gave me a bit more confidence. Cheers!
I love comments like this, thank you!
If you have any questions feel free to reach out me on Facebook or Instagram.
Best of luck on your printing adventure!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Thanks buddy, I'll do that!
Great video, very informative
Glad you found it helpful!
I kept coming back to this just to make sure I was getting some things right. I didn't wanna crack any glass or plastic. Thanks for taking the time to make this fucko. Is appreciated. Also nice Savage Dragon style avatar. Loved the covers and full page panels in that series.
So glad you found it helpful!
Oh wow I've never heard of that series, but it definitely looks similar to Orem. I'll definitely have to check it out!
Just got a Mars 3 mainly for terrain peices for Warhammer and DnD since spending $80 for a few broken buildings seemed excessive... Now I have a gateway to unlimited terrain costing a couple dollars a print! Your guides are top notch!
Oh that's awesome! I've heard great things about the Mars 3.
I think you'll really enjoy the huge range of models this hobby will give you access to!
I always appreciate hearing that my videos are helpful, thank you!
As someone who has a very similar (if not the same) printer, this was probably the best intro video and makes me feel a lot more comfortable with finally trying to use it and how.
I'm so glad to hear that this video helped you. Thanks for the positive feedback!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I've done filament 3D printing at school. My friend was upgrading to the 10" and sold me his 8" so I could do game prototyping. My sole worry is that the place I have for this isn't the best as it's in a room with a sun-facing window. Two questions. Is the yellow-clear cover that comes with it sufficient? Do you have a video about using the cleaner?
great video thank you. you got me started with success. I cant find out what to do when the model is done pritning. i have an anycubic photon max and im not sure how to clean up after or what to do with the resin in the vat. i thought there would be videos on this but no lol any help would be nice. im shocked the manufactures dont have step by step directions. i have a washing station and have no idea what to do with it. maybe its just anycubic that lacks info, but i havent found videos on what to do when your print is done.
Thank you!!!
You are very welcome!
you are a saint and a scholar
Aww, thanks. 😊
This is the definitive beginner guide I have been looking for. (Haven't been able to afford a printer yet.) But you may have saved my future self a huge mess by mentioning the gas build up inside the closed resin bottle! Never heard that before. In fact, in my mind I was thinking I would just use the laboratory mixer I use for my mini paints. Wow that could have been dangerous if not certainly very messy! Thanks, and I'm a new subscriber due to your style and informative format. Well done!
It's funny, I actually didn't create content for awhile because I didn't think I had much to offer. It took me awhile to understand that my teaching style being different from others is a good thing.
Thanks for the positive feedback! 💚
The only thing id like to see more would be a correct file safe as my printer take ctb not stl file type and i learned that of the usb that came with it as some test files were saved on the usb in ctb, as well as a way to get the print out of your printer as that can be messy, the best way i found to get it out is to unscrew the build plate then drain as much of the resin back into the vat then get a big bowl for your print, brack the print of the build plate and in the big bowl and place the build plate back into the printer so that you don't have to clean the build plate strat back for another print, and use the bowl to clean your print.
I can gladly help with that.
First, "STL" is the basic file format most 3D files come in. You'll need to use a slicer like I show at the 3:22 mark in this video to get the STL files ready to use on your printer.
Second, the next video in this series explains how to remove prints from the build plate with as little mess as possible. 😊
th-cam.com/video/ZQAxOmoeEC8/w-d-xo.html
Omg man. Your channel is going to be my lifeblood. I got a photon mono 4k and my test print is 👌🏻 but I can’t bet crap to print now and the lack of videos or help on these issues is just all over the place. Very hit or miss. Lot of people are sent the printer for free so it just becomes a butt missing overview and has no real help. U are so detailed oriented and it’s a huge help. Im going to go home and take some of this advice and if I still have issues dig a bit deeper on ur channel. Do u have a video discussing supports in Lychee? I know u mentioned starting with presupported models but down the road I’d prefer to learn from u. Very helpful man. Seriously.
I really appreciate comments like this a lot! It means so much to me that my videos are helpful to people in this community. So thank you for that!
Troubleshooting issues is a pain no matter what. But it's much worse when you can't find info that applies to your issue.
I'm always happy to help with general troubleshooting and advice. So fell free to reach out to me on Discord, Facebook, etc.
If you'd like detailed 1 on 1 support that is a paid service I offer as well.
I will definitely be doing a full breakdown of my support process in a future video. It will likely end of being its own series since there's so much to cover.
Thanks again for the awesome feedback!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay man that is awesome to hear. I’d really like to hear it from u. You teach more better. Lol ima try another print tonight so if it fails get ready for me to run to u crying
What are the resin settings for photon mono 4k? for basic gray 405nm
@@angelofdeathII7 the settings he has listed in his description worked perfect for my mono 4k! Check those out.
Great video, I just got into 3d printing. I've got like a 90% failure rating right now. So hopefully your tips will help
Ugh that's so frustrating! If you don't see improvements let me know. I can usually give general advice to help work through issues. Or, if you want to join my Patreon, I can give you 1 on 1 3D printing support.
Or you can always join my Facebook group. Lots of people there are happy to help troubleshoot issues.
Great video I have a Saturn 2 and am having all sorts of problems every time I try to print it Fails? Ended up wrecking my FEP. While I 'am waiting for a new FEP I have one question to ask you? If I use Lychee why does it put it as a Chitu file on my USB drive?
Silicone is the friend of resin printing.
Agreed!
You gave me more tips in your video than I received watching 20 plus others! I have had my Anycubic Photon Mono 2 for a few months and after approx 20 failed prints I'm close to throwing I the towel. I bought it because I'm making everything to furnish and accessorize a 1:12 scale dollhouse and I haven't been able to find anyone that can help me with supports. It's so frustrating I'm close to buying a Bambu Lab filament just to get away from this hell that the supports are giving me, even knowing the amount of detail I will be sacrificing with filament. If there is anything you can do to help,I would be so grateful. I'n happy to subscribe to your Patreon...anything to help me accomplish this project!!! Than you again for your awesome info
I'm glad you found this video so helpful.
I'm sorry you're seeing those issues with your prints. I know how frustrating it is when you keep trying new things but continue seeing the same results.
I do offer 1 on 1 3D printing support as a reward on my Red Scale Patreon Tier. Joining my Patreon would allow me to set time aside to help answer questions and set down for a live video call as well.
Here is a link to my Patreon if you'd like to take a look,
bit.ly/3E9g22O
Wish I had of watched this before I started last week. Lol I learned the hard way about how hard is to figure out supports lol
I'm sorry you learned the hard way but you're not alone. Lots of us jumped in head first and just learned by doing. 😅
This is awesome! I am just getting into 3d printing and have a lot of learning and work to do. I've only done FDM so far (10 flashforge finders) I have a new elegoo mars 2 but the toxic nature of the resin has kept me from diving in
That's so exciting! I started with FDM as well.
I can definitely understand why you'd be concerned. However, if you put in place a few safety rules (and follow them) then the risk is very low.
@SlicePrintRoleplay I bought some supplies to make an exhaust fan using computer fans and dryer tubing. Looking for ideas on how to filter it too perhaps, but going atraight out the window is the first thought
Just got my 3d printer. Even though i have an allcubits, it's similar in build so i could follow easy enough. I'll have to take this in chunks. Also, because of this, i learned i have an lcd protector...just couldn't understand what i got or why. Thanks for also breaking things down. Like a slicer. Not just saying, "You'll learn in time what these are"
Glad you found it helpful and easy to follow!
failed 4 prints before watching this, ill update this comment when the current one hits 25% lol
Oh yes please let us know how it goes!
2 months later and still no luck for 25%?
@@xICEMANx117 I'm sorry to hear that. 😞
either he lost his google account or forgot this comment.
Oh man still hoping for an update
thank you very much, so i have one more cuestion, i just printed a small trex head and it only made the first 6 supports and i don't know why, do you have any tips on what it could be? again thank you very much BTW the head was 10 mm wide 24 mm tall and 15 mm in length @SlicePrintRoleplay i level it already and it doesen't seem to improve it just forms the supports but then it gets smashed at the bottom of the resin tank how can i fix i t ?
Excellent guide! I just bought a Longer Orange 30 printer and I've been scratching my head trying to think of where to begin...
I'm glad to hear that this video helped you! If you have any questions please let me know.
This was a fantastic first look at 3d printing. I just purchased the AnyCubic Photon X as it's on sale currently. This will be my first dive into 3d printing and I'm a bit nervous that I'll ruin something.
That's fantastic welcome to an incredible hobby! I've not used the Mono X yet, but I've heard good things.
I can completely understand your fear of breaking stuff. I think we are all worried about destroying stuff when we start this hobby.
But there are really only two things you need to do to prevent damage.
#1, make sure to level your build plate following the instructions in the manual. A lot of printers actually come with the bed already leveled so check that before you level.
#2, always clean the vat after a failed print. If bits of cured resin are left in the vat then the build plate will crush them into the LCD at the start of your next print.
If you run into any issues feel free to reach out. 😊
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I appreciate the words of wisdom! The destruction of parts is a real fear but I'm more concerned with the complexity of getting the print settings correct in the CHITUBOX slicer program. I've been doing a ton of research to find sort of a "starting point" but I won't know if any of these settings are viable until the printer gets here.
That being said, I look forward to seeing more content from you! Cheers!
Thank you very much. Waiting to get my first resin printer this August (pre-order) for the Saturn 2. Starting big! I probably will need two 1-liter bottle of resin, won't I? xD
Oh that's awesome congratulations! Yeah with a larger volume printer like that I'd definitely recommend having at least one large bottle of resin on hand.
Below is a Kit link to some of my favorite budget resins. Be sure to check different colors because sometimes it'll be running a deal on one color versus another.
And if you have any questions feel free to reach out. Good luck!
kit.co/SPR/best-cheap-3d-printing-resins
I recently purchased the Ancyubic Photon Mono 2X, does that count as a medium sized printer?
Great video. You mentioned spreadsheets for settings at about 5:05 and I don't see them in the description. Thanks
Very nice video! I miss the topic of cleaning post printing, this is so important too in resin 3d priting. =)
I totally agree cleaning your prints properly is extremely important. That will be the next episode in this series. I'm hoping to create a video that will cover each step in the process.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay That sounds good. I really appreciate the video you did here. I am so new to this hobby.
@@matthewgrove9704 you are very welcome! My main goal for the channel is to help people (especially new users) with 3D printing.
If you have any questions feel free to join my Facebook group or reach out to me on socials.
Amazing video, easy and clear, thank you so much for your time and your knowledge. 👏🏻👏🏻🫶🏻
You are so very welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful. 😊
excellent narration and presentation! Wish you would mention the dangers of resin and recommend a mask and eye protection as well.
Thanks for the positive feedback and constructive input.
That's a fair call out. In another video I explain that some people may want a respirator and or full face shield for extra protection. Some people really need that While others aren't as bothered by the resin smell.
I'll try to mention that more in the future. 😊
Great video, has helped me understand a lot. Have you got settings for water washable any cubic resin please? I purchased a photon mono 4k
I don't have settings for that resin/printer combo. I'd highly recommend you calibrate your exposure time. That's how you'll get the best results. Look for Resin Calibration tutorial videos. I have a video on that subject, but it's a bit outdated.
Great video but I just have a few questions. I love 3d printing, ive been using my Ender 3v2 FDM printer for a while and it's amazing but the only thing that really is lacking for me in FDM printing is printing models (tanks/planes/etc) and miniatures. They take forever if you want the best quality possible (this small 80mm tank I printed with multiple parts and a custom amazing quality profile on CURA took nearly 15 hours...). This leads me to my question, if I do go with a entry model resin/SLA printer do I need to do anything about ventilation? I have heard that the fumes resin printers produce are highly toxic to humans and animals so I am confused, do these printers already have built in filters or do I need to figure out an encloser with ventilation?
This is a great question. I can gladly share my opinion. However, it's important to note that I am not a doctor, chemist, etc. So my input is based off my personal experience over the past 4 years.
It's definitely true that some UV curable resins can give off strong fumes. For some people (like myself) those fumes don't have much effect on me. For other people, those fumes can make you feel sick and give you a headache.
So whether or not you need a filtration system to get rid of those fumes will really depend on how you react to those fumes. All of my resin printers are kept in the same office where I work 60+ hours a week. The only time I have an issue with the fumes is when I'm using a resin with a very strong smell. However, it's typically not recommended to be in the same room with resin printers for long periods of time.
What would be your recommendation on a resin printer. I am new to it but I don’t want a super small one I’d like to fix a decent size build plate one with a also not looking to spend 1000 bucks lol
Hey there. I can gladly recommend a few different options. However, I actually am currently selling a few printers that I think might interest you. They are used, but professionally refurbished. They have a large build volume, are extremely reliable, and reasonably priced.
If you'd like check those units out you can find a post about it in my Facebook group. Or you can reach out to me directly through Facebook, Instagram, Discord, etc.
I can also give you recommendations on different printers to check out if those units don't interest you.
The best guide but will need to watch 10 other videos but it's complete 😂 👍
Yeah I definitely want to continue this series very soon.
And thank you for the compliment!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay wasn't a compliment lol but keep at it 👌
@@Theundisputedtruth I definitely misread your comment but that's what I get for responding before I'm fully awake.
But still, your comment reminded me that I want to cover all aspects of resin 3D printing with this series. That way people won't have to hunt for a bunch of videos. Thanks for the encouragement. 😊
I'm new to 3D resin printing. I would like to know if temperature and humidity are a factor with resin printing like it is in filament printing ? The smell forces me to put the printer in the basement. Where it's slightly cooler and a little more humid.
Temps absolutely will effect your prints. Anything under 65c will start causing issues. 70c is the minimum that's recommended though.
Humidity can cause issues as well, but only if it's e extremely high.
Hi love the video, what printer would you suggest for a complete beginner? I have the proton mono 2 with no success on any of my prints. I mainly want it for miniatures tbh
Of all the printers I've tested, the easiest to use and most reliable has been the UniFormation GKTwo. However, it's also one of the most expensive.
The Photon Mono 2 is well liked in the community. If you'd to join my Facebook group we can help you with some general troubleshooting.
Or if you'd prefer 1 on 1 3D printing support, that's a service I offer through my Patreon. I can work with you to help you get the results you want from your printer. 😊
@@SlicePrintRoleplayThanks for the recommendation I think I'll go with the uni formation gktwo then. I was on the fence between that one and the mono m5s for the app integration and WiFi, but hopefully gktwo will get support in the future 🤞🏻
Question Sir,
Just got a saturn 2 my first one. Leveled it, shaken the resin, applied the print and the platforms to have it stick. Yet the print doesnt stick to the base when it is done is there something i am missing. The temperature in the garage is pretty room temp like 70. What do you think could be the problem
There are a few different things to look into. The two most common causes for what you're seeing are,
#1, your build plate isn't quite leveled. So your first layer isn't getting a good grip on the build plate.
#2, your settings need to be adjusted. If you want to join my Facebook group and post a picture of your settings I can provide a bit more guidance.
have you found a good 3d file editor? I have some pre supported models I'd like to cut some bad pieces off of.
I have indeed! I really like using Meshmixer to edit 3D files.
Check out my tutorial below to learn more about it and what it can do. Let me know if you have any questions.
th-cam.com/video/dyUWkZSxsiY/w-d-xo.html
Hi, thank you for your informative video! New subscriber here!
Is it possible to use the slicer program on a smartphone or IPad rather than a PC? If so, would you recommend doing so or advise against it? Many thanks!
It's possible there is a slicer that can be used on mobile devices. However, most mobile devices will lack the power required to slice larger models. So I personally wouldn't use them.
Hi there. I'm thinking in buying a 3D resin printer, and i have serious doubts of what i really need in order to print a nice piece with no issues in the future( in example, cracks or something similar)
So my main question is after the print and cleaning of the piece, do i really need a cure station machine?
Supposedly the Elegoo Saturn S, has some cure function but the light source is through the lcd i think, so basicaly it cures the piece along the printing process, at least its how i think it works.
If i don't cure the piece after the printing, do you think that i will have problems in the future?
Thanks in advance!
Okay there's a bit to cover here so let's focus on one part at a time.
First, yes you need to post cure resin printed parts. Let me explain.
Think of it like working with clay. First you model the clay sculpting in fine details. Once that's finish you need to heat the clay so that it sets. If that's not done then the clay won't get hard and be safe to handle.
It's the same with resin. The printer uses a UV light through the LCD to form the model. This is known as the, "Initial cure."
Once a print finishes the models are soft and covered in liquid resin. They need to be cleaned, allowed to dry, and then given a final cure. That final cure is also called, "The post cure."
The washing and post cure are both absolutely necessary. Otherwise, the model may be slightly toxic to handle.
You need to wash the liquid resin off before curing otherwise the liquid resin will be cured into the model.
Then the model needs to be post cured to make it hard and safe to handle.
Second, you certainly do not need a wash & Cure station. Most people start by washing parts by hand and making a DIY cure chamber. I will be creating videos on making DIY wash and cure stations. Hopefully I can get those done soon.
I hope that answers your questions.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Thank you so much for your awesome and detailed answer. Its funny because i was thinking the same, about getting some uv light source and make some diy gadget to post cure the pieces. Cure Stations are not overpriced, but if we can try to make at home we will save some money. I will watch your videos from now on to get more knowledge in this incredible world of 3d printing.
With Lychee Slicer now there seems to be more settings in regards to lift speed that is confusing me. There are now 2 settings for lift speed and 2 settings for retract speed. Do you know what to set those to?
So I'm betting you're using a printer that allows for two different speeds for both lifting and lowering the build plate.
Basically, the first speed is how fast it moves for the first short distance away from the FEP.
The second speed is how fast it moves after that. I don't see this as being a huge benefit so I typically don't use it.
That being said, you can likely just leave it at the default that populated when you selected your printer.
I created this video to help explain what (I believe) are the most important settings to change and what to start with for them.
th-cam.com/users/shortsSxcUz9GLly8?feature=share
So helpful just got my printer kinda intimidated
Hi good video for starting out. I just got the Photon S and having issues nothing on the build plate stuck to bottom of resin vat. I have good setting from what I have seen so not sure. I will level again to check that too. Any thoughts?
Hey there. Welcome to an incredible hobby!
Can you join my Facebook group or reach out to me on Instagram or Discord?
It would help a lot to see a picture of your settings and a picture of the failed print.
I have submitted request to join FB group.
@@bobpaulin3920 oh awesome! Just make sure to answer all the questions and agree to the rules. Then it will auto approve you.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay I did agree to terms but that was only question I saw? It still says pending approval?
@@bobpaulin3920 no worries. I just sent you a message on Facebook. Looks like there is one membership question that was missed.
Thanks! Can you recommend me some resin printer that would be able to fit/print Dactyl-ManuForm 5x6 Mechanical Keyboard
by ZackFreedman
First, thanks so much for supporting the channel! 💚
Now about your question, I looked up the Kit you are referring to. In the product photos it looks to have been printed with an FDM printer. That's certainly not a bad idea since FDM printers tend to handle larger prints a little better than resin printers do.
But you specifically asked about resin printers.
I would go with a medium-sized resin printer. So something like the Elegoo Saturn series or the Phrozen Sonic Mighty series. I've also been testing the UniFormation GKTwo. It's a fantastic printer with some really cool features. However, it's a little bit more expensive then the other options I mentioned.
Let me know if you need more info.
Can you use ultimaker cura as a slicer for a resin printer?
No unfortunately Cura isn't compatible with resin printers.
sick tattoo 👍
Thanks!
do you leave resin in printer until next print or you store it into botle after every print?
If your print has any kind of failure then I'd strongly recommend draining your vat. Just be sure to use a filter/paint strainer to filter out any bits of cured resin.
If you don't see any failures on your print then it's fine to leave the resin in the vat till your next print. Just keep the cover/hood on and stir the resin up before your next print.
Check out this video for more info about draining your vat.
th-cam.com/video/cvMYSMkQvdw/w-d-xo.html
hi i have bracllet tow pices and need to remove one of them to save the resin and the time of print how i will remove it thanks
If you're talking about editing an STL then check out my Meshmixer tutorials. That's a pretty great program for editing 3D files.
can the same part in pla and resin handle the same tension on the part ?
That really depends on a lot of different factors. It depends on how the parts are oriented, infill of the PLA part, etc. It's unfortunately not an easy answer.
Newbie question here. How many times can you start a new printing job before emptying out the resin?
Newbie questions are always welcome. Yes you can absolutely start another print without draining the vat. However, it's extremely important that you check the vat for debris and make sure the resin is stirred/mixed together well.
You can actually do both of those things at once. Simply take a rubber kitchen scraper and run it along the bottom of your vat. This will mix the resin up and also allow you to feel if there's any bits of cured resin stuck to the vat. Just make sure you only ever use that kitchen scraper for resin printing.
After stopping printing, pressing pause, and lifting the platform, will there be a trace on the model?
I've heard some people say that there will be a line. However, I've never experienced that myself. I've also never seen any proof of that either. So I can't say it's impossible, but I've never actually seen it.
Would I be able to keep one of these in my room for convenience
If it's a room you spend a lot of time in I wouldn't recommend it. Unless you vent the fumes.
I just got my anycubic photon m3 max and I leveled my build plate and have been trying different resin settings. It seems nothing is curing or even sticking to the build plate. do you have any advice?
I'm really sorry to hear that. Have you checked the LCD like I show in this video?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay yes I did, it works fine. I think I need better settings or I’m not sure what’s wrong. I upped the exposure time and the resin cured but did not stick to the build plate. I will go with your recommended settings. What should I start increasing or decreasing while trying to find the best settings
@@petertran4430 okay in that case I'd increase your bottom exposure by 15s. And follow this process (using the second test model) I talk about in the video below.
th-cam.com/video/GL-9Ia0SibQ/w-d-xo.html
@@SlicePrintRoleplay hi again, so I just emptied my fep, turns out there was a thick layer of resin cured that I had to peel off. What can I do to prevent the resin sticking to the fep and instead to the bed? Is my home to close to the LCD?
@@petertran4430 I'm sorry to hear that you're seeing that issue. Could you post about this in my Facebook group? I'd like to see a screenshot of your settings if possible.
Or you can reach out to me through Facebook Messenger, Instagram, or Discord.
What can you do with leftover resin? Do you recover it or scrap it? How do you clean the resin tray? You did not mention hardening the resin (UV light)....lots missing here., but still helpful.
Those video is meant to be the first part in a series. It's difficult to cover all aspects of the resin 3D printing in one video without people complaining that it's too long. So I focused on covering different parts of the process in each video.
I will be picking up this series again soon.
I'm not sure what you mean by "Resin leftovers." Are you referring to supports? If so then there's not much you can do with it unfortunately.
Did you mean small amounts of liquid resin left in a bottle or the vat? If so then I typically mix it with another resin of the same type.
I already have a video explaining my process for cleaning the vat (resin tray).
th-cam.com/video/cvMYSMkQvdw/w-d-xo.html
Question: I'm wanting to use your settings in the description on my Mars 3, but I noticed you only put Mars 2. Would those settings work for the Mars 3 as well?
Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I definitely meant to put "etc" in that sentence. Those settings are going to be a good starting point for any printer similar in size to the ones I mentioned. So the first list of settings should be just fine to start with on the Mars 3.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Been using these settings for a few days now and I really like them. I did have a question about Anti-Aliasing, Grey level, and Image blur, though. I'm only printing miniatures and I want the crispest detail- What should I do about these settings?
@@hrstackhouse glad to hear that you've been seeing good results with those settings.
So all of the settings you asked about are used primarily to hide layer lines. If you are not seeing major issues with layer lines then I wouldn't worry much about using them. As it stands I don't have much experience with those settings. Mainly because you sometimes have to sacrifice some detail when using them.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Perfect! Thank you so much! I'm going to turn those settings off and see if it helps with the detail. I may also play around with lowering the exposure time to see if that improves detail, too. :) I really appreciate your responses to my questions.
@@hrstackhouse you're definitely on the right track! Calibrating your exposure time is an important step. That will allow you to get the best detail from each resin you're using.
I believe this process is compatible with your printer. If not let me know.
th-cam.com/video/lRbZw6GbGCI/w-d-xo.html
Tuning the exposure....as a newb is a painful process...with resin printing was for cut and dry... lol
Calibrating exposure can certainly be a bit tedious. However, there's a process that makes it much easier.
Unfortunately it's not compatible with all printers so check the compatibility list or run a test on your printer. But I found it to be the best way to calibrate your exposure without having to run a ton of tests.
th-cam.com/video/lRbZw6GbGCI/w-d-xo.html
Can you show how to put that protector on and getting rid of the air bubbles. Thank you
Is it ok to print in my home office or are the fumes going to be really bad?
For questions like this I always like to start by saying, I am not a doctor, chemist, etc. Any advice or input I have on this topic comes from my own direct experience.
Alright with that said, it will depend a lot on the type of resin you use. For example, water washable and eco resins tend to have a stronger smell then standard resins.
I am not really bothered by the smell of most resins even with having multiple printers in my office with me. However, some people get headaches from the smell. So it really depends on each person.
If you find that the smell bothers you then you can look into options to filter out the fumes or vent then out a window.
Hello, can you please help me, I have a printer ELEGOO Saturn 8K MSLA Resin 3D printer and I have a lot of problems with printing?
Sure I can try and help. You are welcome to join my Facebook group, join my Discord, or reach out to me directly through Facebook messenger or Instagram.
OK thanks
Can I have your recommended chitubox settings for Saturn 2 using elegoo 8k resin?
Sure, but remember these will be baseline settings.
Lychee on left / Chitubox on right
Bottom/Burn in Layers,
Number of Layers / Layer Count: 5
Exposure Time / Bottom Exposure Time: 35s
Transition Layers Count: 0
Light-Off Delay / Bottom Light Off Delay: 20s
Lift Distance / Bottom Lift Distance: 8mm
Lift Speed / Bottom Lift Speed: 40mm
Normal Layers,
Layer Thickness / Layer Height: 0.05mm
Light-off Delay: 20s
Exposure Time: 3s
Lift Distance 8mm
Speed,
Lift Speed / Lifting Speed: 60mm
Retract Speed: 100mm
Thank you. Is it for a specific resin?
@@michalkowalski480 you are welcome. And no, those settings would be a basic starting point for any resin. You'll want to calibrate your settings for each resin you use.
Thanks
@@michalkowalski480 No problem.
where can i find a tutorial telling me what to do with what i printed ? cure exposure etc!! thank you
I am working on that currently. I apologize that it's taking so long.
what do I do if it has a 0.5 seconds delay between when it dissapears from the UV thing to when it dissapears from the screen? should i be concerned ? how do i fix it ?
BTW my 3d printer is a photon mono 4k
@@raykichytenshi7009 nope that's not a concern. It likely just means that you have a 0.5s light off delay before the build plate moves up away from the LCD. And that is fine.
Maybe I'm missing something but it seems to be missing any information on ventilation? And there's also no mention of how to do the cleanup and reset the printer for use on future prints etc?
You are not missing anything. However, the series I intended to create is missing the next videos to outline the processes you're talking about.
Additionally, my opinion on resin safety has changed since this video was created. I am working on new videos to continue this series plus a video about resin 3D printing safety.
I thought that most of the slicers have build in feature, that automatically detects the areas where supports are needed and also automatically add supports to the model. Is that not true?
You are absolutely correct that most slicers have that function. However, some are better than others but none of them are perfect. Meaning, they still miss areas that need supports.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay
So, as a noob, firstly trying to print a simple model - can i rely on that function? Or it's so innacurate i will not be able to print something unless i'll have pre-supported models or spend hours to learn how to make that supports?
Much thanks!
Is there more safety items we should know about?
I am currently running some tests to determine that actually. What I've found so far is that (as a general rule) it's not recommend to be in the same room as your printer without venting the fumes. So a tent with an inline fan isn't a bad idea.
At the very least, open windows and don't spend a lot of time in the same room while it's running.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay so it is not a good idea to have it in your room?
@@3DFlexOfficial without a setup to vent or filter the fumes, I wouldn't recommend it.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay ok, what about a basement
I have no idea what im doing wrong, LCD seems fine, everything is leveled fine and Ive tested a fair amount of ranges of exposure time but no matter what I do nothing is sticking to the base plate
I'm sorry to hear that's you're having a rough go of it.
If you'd like some general advice to help narrow things down then you are welcome to join my Facebook group and post there.
Or if you'd like more dedicated 1 on 1 support that's a service I offer through my Patreon.
Here are all my links,linktr.ee/Sliceprintroleplay
I still have yet to have a successful print 😅 I feel like I’m missing something. I’ll keep trying tho
I'm sorry to hear that. If you'd like to join my Facebook group you are welcome to post there to get help. Or you can join my Patreon to get 1 on 1 3D Printing Tech Support.
Here's all my socials,
linktr.ee/Sliceprintroleplay
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Oh Awesome! I’ll take you up on that. Heading to your Patreon now. Thanks!
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Thanks for the videos. It’s all pretty overwhelming but I’m excited to learn. Great resource with the Patreon. I’ll head over to the FB group too. Thank you!
Last time i paused to check if everything was ok, it stop printing. Tme z acis still move but nothing up to that layer came out ( not even onto the fep)
That's very odd. It sounds like bad firmware. What model printer?
Mars 3 pro.
@@EhOThomas that's really strange. I'd test that again. Maybe without the vat and build plate. If it happens again I'd contact Elegoo support about it. That's very odd behavior.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay you mean run a print withiut resin, just checking if the lcd is doing what it suposed to? Sure, i will try that. Thanks!
@@EhOThomas yeah I'd do it it that way so you don't waste resin. Also so you can't see what's happening on the LCD.
Wait so you dont actually need anything to cure the finished miniature after it has finished printing and you remove the supports?
Yes you absolutely will need to wash and cure your models once they are finished.
Sorry, was there something in the video I said that gave you the impression they didn't?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Not really, it just seemed that way, but thanks for the clarification. I found the video really helpful!
@@bougatsabougatsa7063 thats for clarifying that. I was worried I accidentally gave the wrong wrong impression.
I will be continuing this series soon. I will explain how to wash and remove supports from your models.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Thank you very much for continuing the series, I will surely watch that video too :)
I like how innocent his profile looks then in some vids looks likes he’s going to jump someone.
Haha yeah Orem is a bit misrepresented in the full body art. That is bring updated and hopefully all the artwork will be more consistent once all the updates are done. 😅
Got a question for any 3d printing veterans: I wanna print my own figures for a certain game in the grimdark future, specifically for a guard army who look like ww1 guys. However, I have seen something called an STL file for these guys...what the heck is the difference between an STL file and a slicer program? Thanks guys!
An STL is typically a basic 3D file. It can be opened in any slicer or 3D file editing software. However, it's not something your printer can read.
You need to put the STL into a slicer so that it can process it. The slicer will export the file in a format your printer can read. Basically the slicer will look at the STL and then give your printer a list of instructions on how to print that STL. Those instructions will be specific to your model of printer which is why you need to select your printer in the slicer.
So in very simple terms, a slicer converts basic 3D files into a format your printer can read.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay so regardless, I buy the STL files, plug them into a slicer program, THEN technically I am ready to print? Cool...simple enough (Watch me screw it up somehow lol)
P.S. Is it true there is an odor as it prints? I have read on some people's printers, they have a strong odor and whatnot as the printer does its job. Again, Thanks!
@@dasheavy101 yep that's the workflow. Once you purchase an STL file you can bring it into your slicer and print it on any of your printers as many times as you want.
Yes, resin 3D printing is actually considered toxic and the fumes should be vented to keep you/your family safe. You can get a grow tent as an enclosure and use an inline fan to vent the fumes.
What do I do when the only thing that printed were the supports?
That's typically either an issue with your exposure or support settings.
You can rule out your exposure settings printing some exposure tests. Once you calibrate your exposure settings if you print again and have the same result you can be reasonably sure the issue is your support settings.
If it's compatible with your printer this is the most efficient way to calibrate your exposure that I found.
th-cam.com/video/lRbZw6GbGCI/w-d-xo.html
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Thanks for the reply. I think it was the settings. I'm using water washable resin and just used the default settings in Halot Box for it and it seems to be printing fine now. its my first time Printing so hopefully I'll learn as I go
@@Dspic09 you are very welcome. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out here. Or (probably a better option) join my Facebook group, find my on Instagram, or Join my Discord. I'm always happy to help when I can.
Where do you get the preprints again?ALSO THERES NO LINKS IN THE COMENTSSSS
If you're looking for the Pre-supported files from TPK Lab then check the description. You'll find those links where it says,
"Models/Artists featured in this video."
What to do once it's finished printing?
Watch part 2 maybe?
@@leew8812 It needs part 3. Printed part was left untouched after taking it off the build plate.
You are correct. Part 3 is coming and will cover how to wash your printed models.
What resin printer is this? Sorry if I missed it if you said it
The printer I'm using in the video is the Epax E6. It's one of my favorite printers from one of my favorite brands. However, Epax seems to have paused production over the past year or two. Many of their models are out of stock and they haven't released a new printer in years. So I, unfortunately, can't recommend their products at this time.
@@SlicePrintRoleplay oh man I hope they continue production soon.. if not then are there other printers you recommend? I've heard great reviews on the Saturn 2 from Elegoo
@@danceswithwolves29 yeah unfortunately I'm not sure if they will or not.
Elegoo (as a brand) is typically a great choice. In my opinion they have the best balance of price, features, and customer support.
I'm currently testing the Mars 4 Ultra. So, I'll let you know my thoughts on that soon.
I followed your instructions with my Elegoo Saturn 3, 12K and waiting until it got to the 25%, nothing on my plate..i purchased.the machine and i have not been able to get it to printing anything yet..i watch videos,.followed the minimal writtimg instructions and still nothing. Ihave only had ot for two.weeks. i am not happy right now 😢
I'm really sorry to hear that. If you'd like to join my Facebook group I'd be happy to do some basic troubleshooting.
Or if you'd like 1 on 1 3D printing support that's something I offer to through my Patreon.
Do you always fill up the resin to 85%?
What if your only doing a small print?
Do you have to empty the left over resin and clean tray after every print?
Can the left over resin be used again or does it need thrown out and if so how do you disposal?
You do not need to fill the vat if it's just a small print.
You don't have to empty the vat, but I would run a rubber kitchen scraper over the vat/fep to ensure there are no hard bits of resin left behind. If you find some then yes you'll want to clean out the vat.
The left over resin is fine to use again and again until it's used up. 😊
Good video but you might want to mention about having good ventilation. Resin fumes are not great for you.
That's a good point. However, some people are less bothered by the smell than others. Some people can't stand the smell and will get headaches after being around their printer for only a little bit. Other people can spend the whole day in the same room with their printer without being bothered at all.
So it's really subjective.
But even still it's important to mention. I'll be sure to touch on that in a future video.
Formula stirrer? I call that a milk frother!?
That too. 😊
Do you have a discord server if so who can i join
I do and you are absolutely welcome to join. I really need to figure out how to display my Discord group link. 🤔
But anyway, here's the link: discord.gg/u3UgmjAyN2
Raise the bed 30 - 40 mm? Did he mean 3 or 4 mm?
What part of the video are you referring to?
@@SlicePrintRoleplay Right, sorry about that. The point he says it is 13:48. He then touches the up arrow button 4 times and it looks like the increments are set to 1mm. 30-40mm is over an inch, just seems like a lot. It could be right as I do not do any 3D resin printing. I'm in the YT research phase right now.
@@JoeCubicle ah okay. At that part of the video the increment is set to, 10.00mm. That equals 10mm each time you press the button.
I recommend that because if you start a print with the build plate directly on the LCD it can confuse the sensor. It's a much better option to allow the build plate to travel a bit before reaching 0/the LCD. 30mm - 40mm may not be necessary, but it's worked fine for me.