Great video! Another good suggestion is that if you use a lubricant on the valves make sure that you use a silicone base lube. You should never put oil based lube on plastic because over time the oil product will dissolve the plastic and 0 ring.
Great step by step video that helped rebuild my TroyBbilt SRWM2.2G26D pump. I removed all the parts and placed the pump head in hot white vinegar and blew it out after an hour with the air compressor. I particularly liked the idea of using 1/4 wood screws to pull out the stuck valves. Using the wood screws is about the only way to get them out............
Love the vid..Do another one about the unloader valve. Nice shop. Retired guy staying busy and saving money. Fix it up, wear it out, , make do or do without.
I have the same model with the same problem EXACTLY! Just ordered a new valve kit for heavy duty application. The guy I talked to said that letting it idle even for a few minutes can damage the light duty check valves. After all try are just plastic! Cost was $16 plus $9 shipping.beter than buying a new pump.
Working on a friends power washer for him first time ever learning all about them thanks for all the info I had hard timing pulling few of my check valves out an I don't the same stuff for sure
Great video. I don't even own a power washer but I was hooked from the get go. I'll have to show this one to my grandpa. I heard he froze his up last winter too. ;)
This is actually a Sears branded Troy Bilt power washer. The pump assembly is made by Briggs. I have to say, this is one of the best videos I have seen on repairing this particular pump. The only thing I would add is that if someone has this style pump and those valves check out ok, look at the unloader valve. If there is no pressure at all, the unloader valve should be the first review. Thanks again for a really smart video.
I agree with the comments that this was very clear explanation of the process of rebuilding a pump. Thanks. My question is whether and how the top half of the pump can be serviced, the assembly that contains the oil and the squash plate? Mine's leaking oil, so I figure some gasket or o-ring failed not in the lower part, but in the upper housing, the part that contains the key-way for the crank shaft. BTW, I already bought an entire new pump for $110 and put it on. I'm just curious about what would be involved if I'd tried to effect a repair on it.
thanks for the video . I have a Troy Built which appears to be the same Black&Decker as your Craftsman. Your right just rent em. I have had a major problem with the uploader valve. I too am retired and don't want to keep throwing money at it. I think I have reached the "old Fart " stage and think everything sold is junk. Thanks again for good video . VERY HELPFULL. Tony
I had a nice pressure washer for about six years. Had an eleven horse Honda motor and was a real blaster! When fall came I always ran RV anti-freeze through it. Never had a problem with it. Very cheap insurance at like two-three bucks a gallon. Thanks for posting this vid.
Great video. I had a similar unit a buddy gave me about 25 years ago. He had bought it to use it in his building cleaning business but wasn't using it, so he gave it to me. I used it a lot, but after about 2 years, the pump went out. The replacement pump was about 75% the cost of a new one so I didn't want to go that route. Another buddy and I took the pump apart and he said it couldn't be fixed. I don't know why; I didn't inquire about replacement parts. It is possible that overuse by me and damage by my buddy -- I'm sure he ran the engine for a long time without spraying water -- did the pump in. At any rate, I decided to sell the engine since it was good. A guy bought it and something else from me, paid me what (I think $100, but I don't remember) and never came and got either item! He didn't have a truck and was going to have to get one and come back later, but I never heard from him. After waiting for him for 2 years (I never knew what to do with it), I finally gave the thing away. That washer had an interesting "life." Now you can buy replacement pumps for those consumer washers for a lot less than you could back then. They may be Chinese made pumps and they may not last more than a year or two but at least that's a reasonable option.
Excellent video with lots of very useful tips. Thank you very much. Can you provide us with the name of the supplier that you used to purchase the checkvalves? 👍👍👍
Very informative video. However if you listen close at the very end he gives the best advice. "If you ain't using a power washer all the time, just rent one. It ain't worth it."
Rent 1 twice and you could buy one. That's dumb. If you are a home owner you need one, PERIOD. Read the Owner's Manual and understand HOW to take care of your stuff, it lasts much longer. I Had a Crapsman 2400 PSI that lasted for 19 years. yep, I was amazed too. Just got a NEW Honda Engine one. I ordered a replacement pump for 130. Sold it for 200. Not worth the time IMHO.
@diver dave Perhaps Dan. However, renting one costs $80 per day or more for a really good one and owning one cost 4-800 Bucks. 10 Rentals buys it. If you only need to use one once in a blue moon then rent it of course. However, Owning one is a responsibility which includes reading the owners manual. If I lived in Minnesota I would rent one. I live in sunny South Florida and have owned one for my home since 2000. The first one lasted 17 years, before the pump failed, I bought a newer more powerful one, replaced the pump and sold the old one. Used it perhaps 3 times a year, and my friends and family borrowed it far more than that. I will always own one, they are indispensable. However freezing temps have killed more pumps than I could count cause folks DO NOT Read The Owners Manual. Sort of the same in Life, if you do not read God's Owners Manual, your body will fall into disrepair as well, and your spirit, Oh My.
As mentioned before sanding the inside our hot white vinegar will break down the calcification that going on in the pump head. I am going to try the 1/4" screw to get those pesky little valves out. (Hardest part of the job!!)
At 11.05 you were putting a valve into one of the piston guides and tapping it in with a dowel rod. Then you cut to the last one going in it's proper valve housing (the three in a line).
After I changed all the 6 valves, unloaded, pressure vale, checked everything I still had low pressure. Most over looked replacement for low pressure problems. Remove the high pressure hose from the PW, this high pressure hose is attached to the 3" high pressure pipe, remove this 3" pipe, now after removing pipe look back inside the pipe still attached to the PW, yes there it is "The Jet", unscrew the jet (screwdriver left), after the turning stops, you need to pull the jet out, not easy, what I did, I hooked the PW to the garden hose and the water pressure pushed it out, be careful not to lose the jet parts , (back jet, spring, front jet), small pin hole need to be cleaned out, also the jet may need to be replaced, this is where my problem was, worn jet, easy.... Lee
The Works Toilet bowl cleaner works good for cleaning out the pump housing. It's basically just sulpheric acid. Just pour some in and let it soak for a while. Easy and cleans all the little orifices too. Vinegar could also be used and will take a bit longer.
thank you hopefully that may be why my 5yr old craftsman 2700psi PW 7.5 briggs&stratton will be the reason why i was not getting any pressure then started blowing water from some where underneath,and like you I am also retired and have the time.thinking maybe the relief valve also.plan on getting into it this week 3/30/2015
Ivw gor one thats leaking in the middle of the pump assuming its coming via the white spacers with grooves cut in it that each piston goes through. Im thinking now its likely a faulty valvw or two. Thanks for the inspiration.
I have a washer with similar looking pump it has no pressure i took apart the pump the piston rods move up and down ok. The valves are stuck inside. It has 6 of them how can i remove them without damaging them? I am guessing the pump is clogged from minerals so i want to get everything out to soak it in a lime scale cleaner. The pump works off and on but mostly doesn't work just line pressure.
Great fix it yourself video! I'm trying to repair the exact model pressure washer for a friend. He got it from a friend who gave up on it because it wouldn't start. Supposedly it was working fine until it sat all winter. I cleaned the carb and it fired right up. Water would not flow through the pump with the spray gun hose disconnected. When the motor ran the pump was fully loaded but did not flow water. I assumed it was an internal blockage or something binding in the pump. I disassembled the unloader and cleaned it. That didn't help. When I backed off the adjustment on the unloader the pump started working but it would suddenly stop spraying and load up the motor when I adjusted the set screw in for more pressure. It would spray continually when operated with light pressure. By light pressure I mean not enough to wash a car. Then I found this video. Unfortunately, I didn't know exactly what the pressure washer in this video was or wasn't doing so I removed the check valves. They looked Ok and none of them had obvious signs of damage. I removed every component possible from the pump head and found no signs of blockage, damaged o-rings, or significant corrosion. I polished the check valve ports the best I could and ordered a set of check valves. I don't know if the check valves are the problem. That being said, I came up with a simple tool for removing the old check valve seats. I ground the point off of a standard hex head 5/16" X 3" wood lag bolt. Using a socket wrench with a little down pressure and the lag bolt will bite into the seat. Just a few side to side wiggles and they came right out. I filed the point of the bolt down until it was flat and the starter thread was sharp.
Great video but my pump is not coming off - got the bolts out pretty easily but it is not dropping off the shaft. Would appreciate any guidance. Thanks in advanced
I live in Hawaii. Had a pump with the exact issue where valves were blown through ports in the head. Definitely not freezing here. I believe unloader is sticking and pressure spike caused ur problem,. When demonstrating at end of the video I could hear engine loading up when the trigger was released. Another indication unloader is sticking. Always check or change unloader valve.
Great video. Good to see the valves mine are all broken and fell out I guess due to ice destroying them. But why not just remove the module and leave the pump attached to the motor is what I did? Just wondering if there was a reason for doing it this way, thanks.
CLR would probably be better at getting the calcium scale out than carb cleaner. Hydrogen peroxide also. Grease on the rubber will degrade it unless the grease is made for that such as silicone grease.
I'm fixing mine now and the plastic piece from the valve went thru the hole to the other side too and it didn't freeze! I don't get how that thing got pushed thru either!
When you show putting the "plastic keepers" in, are there washers already installed in the groove that the plastic keepers sit in???? Thanks. Good video
Hi,I have a Husky power washer 1600 psi,the motor run good but as soon as I turn the main water hose on,it turns off no matter what I do it won't turn back on until I turn off the water and it few minutes before it's back on. Please,what seems to be the problem?
Per chance, do you know what the part number is for the thing you called a "sensor" at 12:30? Do you know what it does? The black plastic piece is broken on mine and I'm wondering if I need to replace it. I don't know what the nozzle is for and perhaps you do?
great detailed video. but the ball behind the spring of the unloader is stuck inside thats why i had to take it apart. I have blown through the other holes to try and force air through the blow out the ball bearing but it wont come out. i have it soaking over night in some PBlaster. any ideas if that doest work?
I saw a video where you have to block the air from getting out the big hole, He blasted air into the water inlet and it came out. I will try to find that video
One of the nastiest design Fork Up's I've seen common to just about ALL these pumps is the long connection tubes for both the inlet and outlet. These are totally exposed on the bottom of the machine and careless handling can easily break them off. I had a new pump that I paid about $70 - I broke it loading or unloading the machine from my truck. These long necks really should be shielded from damage or supported so they don't have stress applied to them. If you move your machine frequently installing some kind of skid plate over them will be worthwhile insurance.
I replaced all 6 valves and I still do not have pressure coming out, I have the same exact pump in the video on my craftsman 2550psi. I noticed the pump was hot to the touch after only running for about a minute. No luck fixing mine :(
when installing the 3 allen head bolts they must be torqued to spec. It puts pressure on your seals and the pressure has to be consistent it can make a difference in performance. Also, put anti-seize on the shaft, eventually it will rust to the pump and never come off. One last thing, if possible never store your pressure washer outdoors, it will freeze, rust, corrosion, water in the gas, it destroys them (even newer ones). Store them in the garage and they will last years.
suggestion: To remove hard water scale in that aluminum casting... use Simple Green solvent (WalMart has it) and a old tooth brush. Formula 409 (a degreaser), or CLR (not safe on metals other than Stainless and chrome) won't work. Make sure it's Simple Green and you can save yourself the emory cloth tool for the real stubborn parts. ;)
joesphx19 I decided it wasn't worth the time and effort. So, I found through others that PWPump.com is the way to go. A new pump was $149 and was an upgrade. Even still, the pump is rated at 300+ hours. These things run high pressure and if there are plastic parts involved, well you get the idea that the life of the pump is limited, depending on the use. I figure that with deck cleaning, siding cleaning and driveway cleaning that would come to about 6 years. Sooo, new pump was the way to go for me.
Thanks, I knew ther had to be better pumps, that didn't use plastic parts, not like plastic is going to live a long life under extreme conditions. So did the new pump put out more pressure and work better? just like years gone by there's always a better mouse trap.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.79[1/2] แก๊งไทบ้านพาบุกเมืองบั้งไฟโก้ ยโสธรรรร!!!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ldr3_fvTEXk/mqdefault.jpg)
Like that "croakus cloth" rig. I'm 62 and had never heard it called that. Great video and love that patio with shelter.
👍👍
This is the best rebuild video I've found for this pump! Thanks so much!!!
Great video! Another good suggestion is that if you use a lubricant on the valves make sure that you use a silicone base lube. You should never put oil based lube on plastic because over time the oil product will dissolve the plastic and 0 ring.
Like the guy before me said it is the best video on rebuilding this pump i have ever seen. Thank you
Great step by step video that helped rebuild my TroyBbilt SRWM2.2G26D pump. I removed all the parts and placed the pump head in hot white vinegar and blew it out after an hour with the air compressor. I particularly liked the idea of using 1/4 wood screws to pull out the stuck valves. Using the wood screws is about the only way to get them out............
Excellent video, perfect work station and shop, beautiful yard. Everything about your video is inspiring. Thanks.
Love the vid..Do another one about the unloader valve. Nice shop. Retired guy staying busy and saving money. Fix it up, wear it out, , make do or do without.
Hey bud! thank you for posting this video. Part numbers and the walk thru helped fix my machine. Great video. Thank you Thank you!!
I have the same model with the same problem EXACTLY! Just ordered a new valve kit for heavy duty application. The guy I talked to said that letting it idle even for a few minutes can damage the light duty check valves. After all try are just plastic! Cost was $16 plus $9 shipping.beter than buying a new pump.
Working on a friends power washer for him first time ever learning all about them thanks for all the info I had hard timing pulling few of my check valves out an I don't the same stuff for sure
Thank you for this, same pump on a Troy Bilt and can be fixed!
excellent video ! thanks - i ordered my valves and just waiting on them at this point. very informative
Thank You Your video help me get my machine up and running.
Absolute best video I have seen on fixing a power washer pump of this kind. Great Job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video. I don't even own a power washer but I was hooked from the get go. I'll have to show this one to my grandpa. I heard he froze his up last winter too. ;)
Great video, it was a pleasure to watch and learn from. Thanks
awesome...that saves a lot of money....thanks for including the part numbers
That's the cleanest work room I've ever seen!
his whole place was Clean, means he knows what he's doing.
Thought the same thing.
This is actually a Sears branded Troy Bilt power washer. The pump assembly is made by Briggs. I have to say, this is one of the best videos I have seen on repairing this particular pump. The only thing I would add is that if someone has this style pump and those valves check out ok, look at the unloader valve. If there is no pressure at all, the unloader valve should be the first review. Thanks again for a really smart video.
I just took out my unloader valve, worked the spring, lubed the O rings, and now it works. It should always be checked first.
look on e bay valves are over half that price.
How to shutoff on gun pressure wàsher
joesphx19 to
Where is the unloader valve?
I let mind freeze up too. I'm ordering a kit and thanks for your the instructional video
Thank you Sir!
Your excellent efforts are very much appreciated, You apparently are a great American.
God Bless America, and Our Marines.
I agree with the comments that this was very clear explanation of the process of rebuilding a pump. Thanks. My question is whether and how the top half of the pump can be serviced, the assembly that contains the oil and the squash plate? Mine's leaking oil, so I figure some gasket or o-ring failed not in the lower part, but in the upper housing, the part that contains the key-way for the crank shaft. BTW, I already bought an entire new pump for $110 and put it on. I'm just curious about what would be involved if I'd tried to effect a repair on it.
Thank you for the video, going to fix mine next weekend!
thanks for the video . I have a Troy Built which appears to be the same Black&Decker as your Craftsman. Your right just rent em. I have had a major problem with the uploader valve. I too am retired and don't want to keep throwing money at it. I think I have reached the "old Fart " stage and think everything sold is junk. Thanks again for good video . VERY HELPFULL.
Tony
I thoroughly enjoyed your video thank you. I paid the most attention to the last sentence. Unfortunately they are just too handy to have around!
I had a nice pressure washer for about six years. Had an eleven horse Honda motor and was a real blaster! When fall came I always ran RV anti-freeze through it. Never had a problem with it. Very cheap insurance at like two-three bucks a gallon. Thanks for posting this vid.
Cost 19 to 29 per gallon now
@Prince Prince You're thinking of cooling system antifreeze. He's using the kind for drain traps and tanks. I use it too in my pump and it's cheap.
Great video. I had a similar unit a buddy gave me about 25 years ago. He had bought it to use it in his building cleaning business but wasn't using it, so he gave it to me. I used it a lot, but after about 2 years, the pump went out. The replacement pump was about 75% the cost of a new one so I didn't want to go that route. Another buddy and I took the pump apart and he said it couldn't be fixed. I don't know why; I didn't inquire about replacement parts. It is possible that overuse by me and damage by my buddy -- I'm sure he ran the engine for a long time without spraying water -- did the pump in. At any rate, I decided to sell the engine since it was good. A guy bought it and something else from me, paid me what (I think $100, but I don't remember) and never came and got either item! He didn't have a truck and was going to have to get one and come back later, but I never heard from him. After waiting for him for 2 years (I never knew what to do with it), I finally gave the thing away. That washer had an interesting "life." Now you can buy replacement pumps for those consumer washers for a lot less than you could back then. They may be Chinese made pumps and they may not last more than a year or two but at least that's a reasonable option.
boiling in a white vinegar solution would remove the scale, but open the windows in your kitchen!
Good video. I learned!
Thanks so much I have the same pump this helps me enourmously . Best video so far
Thanks. I been racking my brain around this dand thing.
Thanks! Just what I needed to fix mine! Thanks for your time putting this together!
One of the best repair videos online. I need to check the unloader valve first, though. Where is it?
Finally an informational video. Thank You
Excellent video with lots of very useful tips. Thank you very much. Can you provide us with the name of the supplier that you used to purchase the checkvalves? 👍👍👍
I like the good advice at the end!
Excellent video! Thank you!
Very informative video. However if you listen close at the very end he gives the best advice. "If you ain't using a power washer all the time, just rent one. It ain't worth it."
Rent 1 twice and you could buy one. That's dumb. If you are a home owner you need one, PERIOD. Read the Owner's Manual and understand HOW to take care of your stuff, it lasts much longer. I Had a Crapsman 2400 PSI that lasted for 19 years. yep, I was amazed too. Just got a NEW Honda Engine one. I ordered a replacement pump for 130. Sold it for 200. Not worth the time IMHO.
@diver dave Perhaps Dan. However, renting one costs $80 per day or more for a really good one and owning one cost 4-800 Bucks. 10 Rentals buys it. If you only need to use one once in a blue moon then rent it of course. However, Owning one is a responsibility which includes reading the owners manual. If I lived in Minnesota I would rent one. I live in sunny South Florida and have owned one for my home since 2000. The first one lasted 17 years, before the pump failed, I bought a newer more powerful one, replaced the pump and sold the old one. Used it perhaps 3 times a year, and my friends and family borrowed it far more than that. I will always own one, they are indispensable. However freezing temps have killed more pumps than I could count cause folks DO NOT Read The Owners Manual. Sort of the same in Life, if you do not read God's Owners Manual, your body will fall into disrepair as well, and your spirit, Oh My.
Great video. Thanks. I'm going to give it a try.
Well done! Very detailed and well explained. Thanks.
Super Video! Working on mine as we speak. Great tips and tricks. Have A Great Navy Day!
honda waterblas
Fantastic video, thank you.
Well made instructional video, thanks !!!!!!!!
I haveto fix mine soon, thanks for the video.
big thanks for taking the time
Thank you.Your video helped me.
Excellent advice 👍
Very well done...thank you very much!
Great Vid, the unloader was not the problem, guessing those little valves are stuck.thanks !
Wow! Excellent video. Thank you
Good video 😊Blessings 💯 🤗 🙏
Well done, thumbs up!
great video , thanks for sharing
As mentioned before sanding the inside our hot white vinegar will break down the calcification that going on in the pump head. I am going to try the 1/4" screw to get those pesky little valves out. (Hardest part of the job!!)
Great video... just an FYI you can buy the pump new on Ebay for $63.
I just bought some of these parts and had a heck of time putting them in .Any suggestions on what I can do.?
At 11.05 you were putting a valve into one of the piston guides and tapping it in with a dowel rod. Then you cut to the last one going in it's proper valve housing (the three in a line).
After I changed all the 6 valves, unloaded, pressure vale, checked everything I still had low pressure.
Most over looked replacement for low pressure problems.
Remove the high pressure hose from the PW, this high pressure hose is attached to the 3" high pressure pipe, remove this 3" pipe, now after removing pipe look back inside the pipe still attached to the PW, yes there it is "The Jet",
unscrew the jet (screwdriver left), after the turning stops, you need to pull the jet out, not easy, what I did, I hooked the PW to the garden hose and the water pressure pushed it out, be careful not to lose the jet parts , (back jet, spring, front jet), small pin hole need to be cleaned out, also the jet may need to be replaced, this is where my problem was, worn jet, easy....
Lee
The Works Toilet bowl cleaner works good for cleaning out the pump housing. It's basically just sulpheric acid. Just pour some in and let it soak for a while. Easy and cleans all the little orifices too. Vinegar could also be used and will take a bit longer.
THX for your tutorial... my question is: how much oil should i put into the piston area of the pump?
thank you hopefully that may be why my 5yr old craftsman 2700psi PW 7.5 briggs&stratton will be the reason why i was not getting any pressure then started blowing water from some where underneath,and like you I am also retired and have the time.thinking maybe the relief valve also.plan on getting into it this week 3/30/2015
What Metric size are those bolts\screws that you removed from the water pump to the frame?
hrumple, did your fix work as good as new?
Awesome job
You need to buy an oscilating tip for your washer if you ever think you would need to clean something dirty.
I got one of those little small plastic tips jammed all the way down in the nozzle. Any ideas how to get it out?
Nice video.
Ivw gor one thats leaking in the middle of the pump assuming its coming via the white spacers with grooves cut in it that each piston goes through. Im thinking now its likely a faulty valvw or two. Thanks for the inspiration.
Nice job
Do you know the part number for that little plastic keeper piece? Mine broke
i seen another video the plastic washer were other way upside down with grooves lined up with nothcheS?
I have a washer with similar looking pump it has no pressure i took apart the pump the piston rods move up and down ok. The valves are stuck inside. It has 6 of them how can i remove them without damaging them? I am guessing the pump is clogged from minerals so i want to get everything out to soak it in a lime scale cleaner. The pump works off and on but mostly doesn't work just line pressure.
Great fix it yourself video! I'm trying to repair the exact model pressure washer for a friend. He got it from a friend who gave up on it because it wouldn't start. Supposedly it was working fine until it sat all winter. I cleaned the carb and it fired right up. Water would not flow through the pump with the spray gun hose disconnected. When the motor ran the pump was fully loaded but did not flow water. I assumed it was an internal blockage or something binding in the pump. I disassembled the unloader and cleaned it. That didn't help. When I backed off the adjustment on the unloader the pump started working but it would suddenly stop spraying and load up the motor when I adjusted the set screw in for more pressure. It would spray continually when operated with light pressure. By light pressure I mean not enough to wash a car. Then I found this video. Unfortunately, I didn't know exactly what the pressure washer in this video was or wasn't doing so I removed the check valves. They looked Ok and none of them had obvious signs of damage. I removed every component possible from the pump head and found no signs of blockage, damaged o-rings, or significant corrosion. I polished the check valve ports the best I could and ordered a set of check valves. I don't know if the check valves are the problem. That being said, I came up with a simple tool for removing the old check valve seats. I ground the point off of a standard hex head 5/16" X 3" wood lag bolt. Using a socket wrench with a little down pressure and the lag bolt will bite into the seat. Just a few side to side wiggles and they came right out. I filed the point of the bolt down until it was flat and the starter thread was sharp.
Great video but my pump is not coming off - got the bolts out pretty easily but it is not dropping off the shaft. Would appreciate any guidance. Thanks in advanced
I would of like to see you battel getting those valves out .I got same problem and I keep mine in the home never froze
Good job.
I thumbs up this video !!!
I live in Hawaii. Had a pump with the exact issue where valves were blown through ports in the head. Definitely not freezing here. I believe unloader is sticking and pressure spike caused ur problem,.
When demonstrating at end of the video I could hear engine loading up when the trigger was released. Another indication unloader is sticking. Always check or change unloader valve.
Great video. Good to see the valves mine are all broken and fell out I guess due to ice destroying them. But why not just remove the module and leave the pump attached to the motor is what I did? Just wondering if there was a reason for doing it this way, thanks.
CLR would probably be better at getting the calcium scale out than carb cleaner. Hydrogen peroxide also. Grease on the rubber will degrade it unless the grease is made for that such as silicone grease.
Where can i get 1 of those white plastic valves from, i know i cant order just 1 but where can i get um
Good video
I'm fixing mine now and the plastic piece from the valve went thru the hole to the other side too and it didn't freeze! I don't get how that thing got pushed thru either!
I'm proud of you, BTW can I borrow that pressure washer this weekend?
Great video. I live in Florida and my button went down in the port. How I don't know. Heated a screwdriver to get them out. Thanks
When you show putting the "plastic keepers" in, are there washers already installed in the groove that the plastic keepers sit in???? Thanks. Good video
good job
Hi,I have a Husky power washer 1600 psi,the motor run good but as soon as I turn the main water hose on,it turns off no matter what I do it won't turn back on until I turn off the water and it few minutes before it's back on. Please,what seems to be the problem?
Where did you get the rebuild kit?
What grade oil goes into pump
Good Job
Per chance, do you know what the part number is for the thing you called a "sensor" at 12:30? Do you know what it does? The black plastic piece is broken on mine and I'm wondering if I need to replace it. I don't know what the nozzle is for and perhaps you do?
That's not a sensor. It's a port to hook up a hose to run soap/cleaning solution through the washer.
great detailed video. but the ball behind the spring of the unloader is stuck inside thats why i had to take it apart. I have blown through the other holes to try and force air through the blow out the ball bearing but it wont come out. i have it soaking over night in some PBlaster. any ideas if that doest work?
I saw a video where you have to block the air from getting out the big hole, He blasted air into the water inlet and it came out. I will try to find that video
One of the nastiest design Fork Up's I've seen common to just about ALL these pumps is the long connection tubes for both the inlet and outlet. These are totally exposed on the bottom of the machine and careless handling can easily break them off. I had a new pump that I paid about $70 - I broke it loading or unloading the machine from my truck. These long necks really should be shielded from damage or supported so they don't have stress applied to them. If you move your machine frequently installing some kind of skid plate over them will be worthwhile insurance.
I replaced all 6 valves and I still do not have pressure coming out, I have the same exact pump in the video on my craftsman 2550psi. I noticed the pump was hot to the touch after only running for about a minute. No luck fixing mine :(
when installing the 3 allen head bolts they must be torqued to spec. It puts pressure on your seals and the pressure has to be consistent it can make a difference in performance. Also, put anti-seize on the shaft, eventually it will rust to the pump and never come off. One last thing, if possible never store your pressure washer outdoors, it will freeze, rust, corrosion, water in the gas, it destroys them (even newer ones). Store them in the garage and they will last years.
Vinegar might get that scale out. It's commonly used for it in coffee pots.
suggestion:
To remove hard water scale in that aluminum casting... use Simple Green solvent (WalMart has it) and a old tooth brush. Formula 409 (a degreaser), or CLR (not safe on metals other than Stainless and chrome) won't work. Make sure it's Simple Green and you can save yourself the emory cloth tool for the real stubborn parts. ;)
hola tengo una bomba igual me podria decie adon de puedo comprar ya sea la bomba o las partes.
BigDogsHunt100 Thanks for the tip, I am breaking into my pump tomorrow.
joesphx19 I decided it wasn't worth the time and effort. So, I found through others that PWPump.com is the way to go. A new pump was $149 and was an upgrade. Even still, the pump is rated at 300+ hours. These things run high pressure and if there are plastic parts involved, well you get the idea that the life of the pump is limited, depending on the use. I figure that with deck cleaning, siding cleaning and driveway cleaning that would come to about 6 years. Sooo, new pump was the way to go for me.
Thanks, I knew ther had to be better pumps, that didn't use plastic parts, not like plastic is going to live a long life under extreme conditions.
So did the new pump put out more pressure and work better?
just like years gone by there's always a better mouse trap.
Xlnt video. Could you tell me where to find those parts?
where can I get a rebuild kit for mine
awesome!