Me and my little brother spent 25yrs, in this sort of workshop, with our Dad... i'm 67 now, those memories are special... this, you, remind of those years... thank you... and your crew...
my pops is 67 and is still wrenchin with me at his shop 5 days a week, and he just had open heart bypass and valve replacement surgery in february and hes back at it, at this rate ill croak before i get a chance at inheriting the family biz lmao oh well
I spent 10 yrs in the gravel, under the tree or crawling in the ditch while monkey wrenching with my dad. Will never forget the lessons, effort or the love.
I don't usually call out other fabricators, but damn, cover that windshield with something. I have ruined some glass with welder spatter. The tiny divots it creates can make crack start points. Sorry, just my two cents. Love what you got goin on with the little SnowCat. Be well and have fun!
Hey Matt, I’m gonna let you in on something. It’s a trick that I learned from an old guy get a Gatorade bottle put a hole in the lid get a rubber brake line hose push it through the lid. Make sure it’s a little tight for a good seal all the way into the bottom leave just about the same amount hanging out of the top, attach it to the bleeder on the calipers if the hose is a little bit loose on the bleeder, use a zip tie fill up the Gatorade bottle just to where it’s over the bottom of the hose and start pressing the pedal. It will let all of the air out and it will not let any air back in it’s way cleaner and you won’t make a mess it also works very well when you do it by yourself if there’s no one else around to help you. It 100% works. I use it on every vehicle I do brakes on.
There's an even better way of doing brake bleeds by yourself using a vacuum canister that connects to an air compressor. It pulls the fluid directly from the bleeder valve and pedal operation is not needed. It might be an unnecessary expense for some, but it absolutely makes sense for just about any shop.
@@RYTHMICRIOT Just bought one of these from Harbor Freight. I was worried about the build quality given the source but it turned out to be well-made. One mistake I made was not having the canister closed all the way tight. Other than that it works great. I would warn everyone against using one of the manual hand pump kind - if you accidentally get brake fluid up into the hand pump, it will seize up and not work. No matter how well you clean it, it will stick and be almost impossible to pump. I think it dissolves the plastic on the cylinder wall or something. Anyway I've bought two of those over the years and the same thing happened to both.
while that generally works for initial bleeding, the bleeders threads do not seal 100% and fluid/air will both leak out and get pulled back in through them. gravity bleeding after that usually clears it up or standard manual bleeding. what I use is an extendable pole, to hold the pedal down as tight as I can get it against the seat, steering wheel, body, then go manually open the bleeder/close and relese/set pedal again, repeat for final bleeding.
About that windshield fogging... With all the cold air outside... And 4+ human beings and at least a K9 somewhere... Your max hot air approach to defogging might not be enough... Humidity.... I predict a future episode about putting AC in the Bombi for that task, as well as comfort in warmer weather.
They should cut a small hole in the cab or the floor through to the heater box so it sucks in some outside air. That will help it defrost much better. Without any fresh air it's like driving with recirc on in the winter.
Very nice progress on the Bombi. I liked having both shifters positioned so I could shift them both with one hand like that too when I drove trucks with five and fours. The easiest way to keep the inside of windows defogged, is to clean them really well, wipe them dry and have a vent or window open just enough to let out the moisture air from breath. Thanks for the video.
I have some old flatbed tarps that are yellow you could use for your covered wagon. I live in utah and pass through st george all the time so I could just bring them down
I cut off the claw part of my hammer years ago. I ground it smooth and rounded off the head slightly. I needed a hammer for body work inside a fender. Works great and it's my go to hammer now. We joke about it and it's officially my 50% OFF hammer now ! Same as yours.
Devout Matt’sORR follower since from the beginning. I graduated HS in SLC, and College in Ogden 27yrs ago and never came back to Utah. But because of Matt, this year I’ve now been back twice. Once for the games and this weekend to revisit my old stomping grounds. Forgot how wonderful everything was.
Absolutely!! & perhaps a brace of "Hobby Horses" leading like Santa's reindeer !! (& so the Kids have something to play with, during break downs or spare time...)
Matt, You could always run a tube (round or square) off that heater box across the top of your dash. Put some 1/4 inch wide slits maybe 2 or 3 inches long, spaced out at 6 inch spacing.... That way you get straight up airflow across the entire window. (if you get fancy, you could add some sliding shutters to adjust airflow....). At each end of the tube, add another slit designed to throw air at your door windows. I think what you've built will keep the window defrosted, but I also think you'll end up with a very clear window for your passenger side, and frosting on the lower left of the drivers side. Also, you're teaching the kids life skills that no one can take away. Good job! When I was in school, we had auto shop, welding shop, AG shop, wood shop..... It's sad that's all going away. Keep up the great work!
24:40 …light touch on the steering sticks… That was one of the first things my father taught me about driving a car. You don’t steer (horse the wheel around), you guide the car with a light touch. In fact, back in the day when all domestic cars had worm & sector steering boxes there was “free play” on center due to backlash between the gear teeth of the worm and the sector. You could just bump up against the side of the gear that would keep the car centered on the road.
The key to effective Defrosting or Defogging is removing the moisture from the cabin. Manufacturers have tied the air conditioning into the Defrost setting of the heater. But, if you're constantly in and out or driving with the doors open, it's like bailing out a boat while someone's drilling new holes in the bottom.
He's either driving in the desert or in the winter. So just having the heater-core pull from an outside vent might be enough. It would at least keep all the moisture from the passengers away from the windshield.
If you need more defrost without running the heat, I know a few endurance racers that run aftermarket defroster grids (like what most cars have on their rear windows) on the windshield to save weight over a heater and blower setup.
Electrically heated windshields have been standard equipment in Range Rovers for decades now. The grid is made of much finer wires embedded into the glass so you don’t really notice them.
@@tylermacconnell217They've been standard equipment on a lot of vehicles for a long time, pretty sure they'll not do one for the Bombi though, so knowing of an aftermarket option may be useful.
@@tylermacconnell217 possible spec differences between US and EU cars then, but the whole of the Ford group as noted with your Range Rover example, VAG, Merc, Porsche and GM, that I know of. Think it started as a Ford thing but their patent expired 2015 or similar, so they are going in virtually everything now (Europe at least).
To help with defrosting you need to have ventilation. The heater should draw outside air into the cab and vents should be added to the rear top of the cab. This configuration will draw in cold dry air and expel hot moist air. I would try this before adding AC.
There were a few cars that had a rear vent, back in the '60s or '70s. Probably for venting cigarette smoke, but same principle. This would be worth a shot, since it'd be so much easier than adding A/C.
@@Adam1nToronto Agree 100% All vehicles have it now pretty much. On cars and vans the vents are usually under the rear bumper side area. Trucks usually between the box and the back of the cab.
@@Adam1nToronto These vents are still there, with modern day AC vehicles. Tuck away in hidden from plain sight. The ventilation is essential in order to prevent any window from fogging up.
Hi Matt, Re fogging windows. I have a crew boat and operate 24/7 365. During winter it could be cold, hanging below 0c or a bit above. Boat has ample heating. However when a crew arrives after working hours in the rain sleet and snow they are cold and wet. The boat is warm and we end up with fogging problem on the windows. Similar to what you are experiencing with the Bombi and a crew aboard. So what we have found that works quite well is along with a dedicated heater for the front windows we also have mounted on each side a 6 inch 2 speed regular fan (caged) Also even then we may still not be able to keep up to fogging and what I have found was even if it is pouring rain or sleet I open my side windows (on the lea side of the vessel in heavy weather) about a 1/2 " on the leading edge of the glass.This brings in quite a bit of fresh air which although it is cold damp air, as it warms it becomes dry air and sucks the moisture out of the air. Soon my windows will have no fogging problems. I have to laugh sometimes as this condensation can be so severe that it starts to drip water off of the deckhead (ceiling) . Literally raining inside the boat. Thanks to you and your crews for all the entertaining videos.
-- 1000% on board for the 'Covered Wagon' safari top. Well I suppose it is 'kinda like' flying an airplane, depending on the aircraft, control surfaces, how they're actuated, if there is computer assistance (fly by wire, which I don't care for). But small, smooth moves work for a nice cruise in most everything I've flown. Like a lot of other things too. Shooting. Driving. ...you can oversteer just about anything on four wheels and with wings. An exception to the rule is 1st person shooter video games. You need to laser that mouse and jerk to a stop on something the size of a needlepoint. I'll never get tired of watching you work on this thing. You've done so much more than I expected. I badgered and badgered you about this, now, think I owe you a thank you.
Matt, I really enjoyed your lesson on differential orientation, I really liked Lizzy, but you have a wonderful lady with Katelynn! She is always smiling!
For the defrosting, try and get some glass made with the wire in it like rear windows(shouldn't be too hard as its just flat). That way it is just an electric defroster. I saw a time attack/rally car with it and it worked mint.
I think the diverter for the defroster should be on a hinge, so you can proportion it. In all the snow cats I've been in, the heater was greatly appreciated in the northern Utah areas when it was below zero. Remember Matt, when using grinders always use safety glasses. Turning your head and closing your eyes doesn't work when the wheel comes apart. Don't ask how I know.
The real danger from grinders is surfaces that are perpendicular to the piece you are cutting, because they will "deflect the shrapnel" in unpredictable directions resulting in a trip to E-merg . I did it multiple times in 25yrs, once just walking by a Iron worker cutting inside an H beam column. When you are letting your coworkers dab the metal out of your eye with their dirty fingers, you have stayed in the business too long.
Matt, I have watched the episode of you finding your claw hammer was missing its claws. Let me tell you what happened. Many years ago, I was told that when you hit a claw hammer against another hammer, or in your case steel, it causes vibration through the hammer head. If you continue doing this, in time the vibrations will weaken the claws and they will fall off. I did not believe this until it happened to me. So, the correct tool for metal working is a ball peen hammer, a dead blow hammer, or a sledge hammer, and even a sheet metal hammer. Claw hammers are for woodworking projects because of the softer material. This was a lesson learned for me. I really enjoy your TH-cam channel!
Safely first, eye protection is always a must. Maybe add some sliced rubber hose on defroster vent to keep you from a laceration. Thx for watching! 🇺🇲⚒️🇺🇲
A couple of friendly suggestions, Oil filled hubs Electric windshield defrost as used by race cars (tape ) And a cab lift system like is used on truck cabs (cab over type) hydraulic rams ,hand pump or electric pump !
I like your willingness to build anything you might need. But when you are working on or around good paint or glass you really should mask off the area using some 3M welding and spark deflection paper 05916. It does a great job of keeping sparks and weld splatter from etching into the windows or the paint.
Matt, as a young man one of my favourite hotrod racers (short oval) here in the UK had issues with his differentials due to continually pulling G in the long corners. This threw oil up the half shaft tubes and starved the diff. Years later I found that he used an electric bilge pump to scavenge the oil and throw it at the actual differential internals. Not exactly your problem but maybe worth considering? Easier on the Bombi because the axle is not sprung...
Yes please to the covered wagon style safari top! Can’t wait to see a horseless wagon with tracks at the top of the world! Also looking forward to the spud truck!
To keep the fog down you actually need ac. Modern cars when you run the defrost setting they have the ac on to dehumidify the air so they run air through the ac condenser first to dehumidify then through the heater block to heat it back up.
The Bombi is just pure awesome. Careful welding around glass, spatter can mark it up pretty easily. Does Henri's truck still have those stupid side post batteries? They're notorious for poor contact and creating high draw and burning starters. Ask me how I know? Simple fix if it already doesn't have it is to put a couple of 3/8 stainless bolts with jam nut in so you can securely fasten the cables. Starter burning eliminated. Hope this helps
That's a good idea, but there's a catch. Popcorn machines need to be cleaned regularly. We can guess who'll get stuck with that job. Yep, the blonde Princess Leia. ;)
you should add an external oil cooler and a small pump which can suck oil oiut of the diff, through the cooler, and have it splash back down directly on those spider gears so that the pinion and bearings and etc are all oiled as they normally would be but ALSO the pump is directly oiling the open diff internals...kinda like how Ford started adding little oil sprayers to spray the underside of their pistons to keep them cool...same idea
Your friends starter issue and why he has to keep changing them might be a chafed solenoid wire touching the frame. I had the same issue and changed out a few starters before I started following the solenoid wire back to the ignition and found the bare wire within a couple of feet of the starter.
Often its also too light a circuit powering the starter solenoid. Some starter solenoids draw 10 amps or more so often the solution is to put in a universal 40 amp relay powered off the starter main lug and fused for 15 to 20 amps. That way the ignition switch or original weak circuit is only supporting a load in the milli-amp range to flip the universal relay. The starter drive will also more positively engage promoting longer starter drive and flywheel ring gear life plus you won't as likely experience solenoid flutter causing weak starts and starter motor overheating. Last one I did the owner looked at me slack jawed when $25 worth of parts solved his years long problem with weak starts and starter failures. He had even replaced the main cable all the way back to the battery which along with other attempted solutions had cost him over $2,000. Best!
Matt, if you make a closeable "valve" for the heater to pull in outside air, it will help with the fogging. The heated, cold dry outside winter air will remove the windshield moisture much better than just increasing the cab temperature above the ever increasing humidity from all the breathing. Just a 70s style fender air inlet setup to the heater box.
Would be cool if that defroster vent was adjustable! (able to tilt back and forth, maybe with piano hinges?). ALSO: A new saying for Matt: "I thought that I was wrong once,,, but I was mistaken".
The way your crew handles recoveries and the equipment you've built and are building reminds me of the 80s cartoon Rescue Heros. LOL. I had an idea for a mobile anchor system for the WLOW. It would be a hydrolic assisted screw in anchor. You could load different achor heads ( narrow for dirt and gravel, wide for mud and sand) the device would screw the anchor in. Then attach a winch line to the anchor.
So glad Katlyn starts to do more and more things. To me it looks like she has become a more important part of the team within the last five (or so) episodes and it is always a pleasure to see and hear her laugh.
Henry's tiny-house/house- boat is crazy! No way that's not tipping over without some pontoons. What a project! Also, love Peanut getting exciting after the cheer! 😅
By the time you read this it will probably be to late ( reassembled).. The spider gear that the shaft slides into is a slip fit into the carrier. that slip fit area is where the hispeed nonbearing rotation occurs (on either side) ... On some farm machinery this was a common problem (overhead / gauling) We would cut a groove in the outer part of the spider gear that fit into the carrier for better oil "flow" - movement durring hi-speed rotation
Have you thought about a heated windscreen? Ford use the tech most - it has very fine wires running through the laminate between the two pieces of glass. Draws about 30 amps though I think, but would keep it clear and prevent overheating inside the cabin. It’ll be relatively expensive to have made, but not ridiculous as it’s flat. Oh, and do please put something on the edges of the defrost deflector - whilst I love the fabrication it makes me pucker just to look at!
It would make sense to put a light gauge metal channel over your exposed brake lines. You could screw the channels in place and put a top on each channel, and that would protect the lines from rocks and chunks of snow that the tracks throw up. That would make the protective channels easy to remove when you need access to the brake lines. Right now, you are set up for another problem if the tracks throw rocks or compacted snow into one of your brake lines. This is a simple fix, and it will work. You could install these channels in a little more than an hour.
one problem with re-manufactured starters is the inside of the housing gets sandblasted so much the plunger comes out too far, if it comes out too far it will bind and won't start again. The coil pulls, the starter spins, but the gear doesn't engage. put a set screw through in the end of the solenoid to prevent over extension.
just for my curiosity.... why not run a front axle? clearly your not afraid to weld on new tubes. seems like it would solve all your oil sumping issues.
@@ReeceLain Easy peasy. I can think of three ways off the top of my head that it's already been done. Motorhome, 4wd truck with only a front axle and the Olds Toronado chain drive. In fact, when I first looked at what they were doing with the Bombi my first thought was the Toronado drive.
@@3rdpigyup! The Tornado drive worked so well that they used it in the old GMC motorhomes too. Plenty of power and reliability. The only problem is that Tom Tom didn't have one lying around for 9 years.
Rear engine reverses the driveline rotation direction, using a front axle you'd be using the coast side of the gears as a transfer case keeps the driveshaft rotation the same when redirecting forward. It too would have to be flipped over to get the rotation correct and would also be using the weaker side of the gears and would become a low pinion. Also, I don't think any axle is going to do well with spider gear lubrication. They just aren't engineered for "single tire fire" in long durations. There is a reason the ripsaw disconnects the shafts and uses a spool instead of spinning spiders. But its a complicated and fairly heavy arrangement.
You will need to add outside air into the defroster to defog the windshield. If it circulating just the interior air it will always fog up. An additional exit vent may be needed as well. I worked for a Toyota dealership in the early 90’s and people would come in with a common complaint about their defroster that would not clear the windshield. The service advisors would change the HVAC controls from cabin recirculate to fresh air and within moments the windshield would defog. Most cars either run the a/c to remove the moisture or introduce outside air. Most of those customers were switching from American made cars that switched the a/c on in defrost and it was a learning curve to the old manual controls of the Toyotas of the day. In the Corvair we would roll the driver window down about an inch to help it defog the windshield because it struggled to move the air the full length of the car.
I never thought you'd be able to replace Lizzie when she left and moved on. I thought Lizzie would be difficult to replace, but after seeing Caitlin and how well she's assimilating into the crew I'm SUPER IMPRESSED! Welcome, Caitlin - can't wait to see how to progress with the crew.
Factory vehicles run the AC during defrost/defog mode above 35-40 F to remove the humidity from the cab air before it passes thru the heater core to warm up the dried air to defog the windows. Since you do not have AC in the Bombi and you often have so many people inside, their breath adds a lot of humidity, so you do need to exchange some of the cab air with the outdoor air to vent and lower the humidity and CO2 and also take in fresh air with more O2 so that you all don't suffocate. Factory vehicles usually are always pulling in fresh outside air with the blower fan (the blower fans always run in in the off position, positive ventilation) at around 15%.
A fan out of a bus on the ceiling facing the window with help with air flow! I would also suggest putting ball valves for the heater core because it will always get hot even when the fan is off, the coolant will always run through it and it’ll be hot in the summer!
I real love watching you guys working the Mark 1 Eyeball CAD designing. It goes really well with the Hammer/ Grinder and Muscle CNC products manufacturing.
I definitely miss Tom Tom and I'm happy he has a channel. I really enjoy watching Matt work with his boys. They're good kids. I can't wait to see Karter more though, I'm fascinated by that kid since I saw him on their cruise trip. He seems like quite a character. Love the whole team....and Katelynn is a total blast!!
To avoid the cab from sliding off of the hoist and clearance issues when raising and lowering the cab, you could use some hangers like soft shackles to attach the cab lifting tabs to the lift. This would allow the cab some movement while remaining securely attached to the lift.
May get buried but make sure to run a GL5 spec gear oil for the differential. Preferably a synthetic option like Delvac 75w90. GL5 has extra EP (EXTREME PRESSURE) additives which should help the boundary lubrication problem your having on the spider gears. Synthetics are also going to flow better especially as the temp drops and should help get oil to everything and keep it there
Hey Matt! An A/C system acts as a dehumidifier when the defrost is turned on in any late vehicle later than 1990 and makes defrosting a windshield effortless.
Sire, my 2c is that the cabin and the windshield are fogging heavily simply because there's no vents at the back of the cabin which the moist air would be able to escape. Moist air being sweating operator(s) and / or wet clothes, melting snow etc. Take a look any of the passenger cars, trucks etc. there's these vents in plain sight or hidden away so that the cabin air will be able to vent out.
I run snow cat every winter building winter roads, and never have driven a cat with controls beside me. They are between your legs so we call crotch sticks, or electric on the arm rest. That’s how you have more control to steer. But do love the builld and thanks for sharing
Flipping the differential, is an idea, for future use. My dad turned a 3 ton truck into a fork lift, for a thrashing crew, 1950's. Swapped the position of the steering and seat.. 4 gears now going backwards. With no cab, the high speed turns, would slide you off the bench seat, out the side. Had to make canvas strapping seat belts, to stay with the truck. Great fun, till the combines took over.
Not sure what your current heater setup consists of, but you may need to add an AC compressor and evaporator/condenser to your system if it continues to fog up. Yes you are blowing heat, but the cold surface of the windshield is condensing moisture in the cab leading to fog. Adding a condenser before the heater core will condense moisture from the air and “dry” the cabin air.
I’ve watched you from the beginning Matt and never commented. I’ve gotta respect your stubbornness to make that brake steering work. I was frustrated you didn’t abandon it long ago and convert to hydrostatic. I stil predict you’ll ultimately have to do that but your perseverance is something to behold😂
Me and my little brother spent 25yrs, in this sort of workshop, with our Dad... i'm 67 now, those memories are special... this, you, remind of those years... thank you... and your crew...
Reliving good memories is something I always enjoy, makes me glad for life I lived and gives me hope for life I will live
Special life long memories that money cannot buy but will make you feel rich of love when looking back. ❤
Precious memories oh how they linger!!!!
my pops is 67 and is still wrenchin with me at his shop 5 days a week, and he just had open heart bypass and valve replacement surgery in february and hes back at it, at this rate ill croak before i get a chance at inheriting the family biz lmao oh well
I spent 10 yrs in the gravel, under the tree or crawling in the ditch while monkey wrenching with my dad. Will never forget the lessons, effort or the love.
I don't usually call out other fabricators, but damn, cover that windshield with something. I have ruined some glass with welder spatter. The tiny divots it creates can make crack start points. Sorry, just my two cents. Love what you got goin on with the little SnowCat.
Be well and have fun!
I thought it was just me!
Maybe a burrito-heating tray would be a good add-on to the heater vent.
The burritos go on the intake manifold. Two on each side.😂
I'm surprised I haven't seen anyplace special for Matt to put his "victory Pie" after the job is complete!!!
Heated Burrito holder is even better than cup holder!
A reward heating tray.
Hey Matt, I’m gonna let you in on something. It’s a trick that I learned from an old guy get a Gatorade bottle put a hole in the lid get a rubber brake line hose push it through the lid. Make sure it’s a little tight for a good seal all the way into the bottom leave just about the same amount hanging out of the top, attach it to the bleeder on the calipers if the hose is a little bit loose on the bleeder, use a zip tie fill up the Gatorade bottle just to where it’s over the bottom of the hose and start pressing the pedal. It will let all of the air out and it will not let any air back in it’s way cleaner and you won’t make a mess it also works very well when you do it by yourself if there’s no one else around to help you. It 100% works. I use it on every vehicle I do brakes on.
Nice tip!😊
There's an even better way of doing brake bleeds by yourself using a vacuum canister that connects to an air compressor. It pulls the fluid directly from the bleeder valve and pedal operation is not needed. It might be an unnecessary expense for some, but it absolutely makes sense for just about any shop.
@@RYTHMICRIOT Just bought one of these from Harbor Freight. I was worried about the build quality given the source but it turned out to be well-made. One mistake I made was not having the canister closed all the way tight. Other than that it works great.
I would warn everyone against using one of the manual hand pump kind - if you accidentally get brake fluid up into the hand pump, it will seize up and not work. No matter how well you clean it, it will stick and be almost impossible to pump. I think it dissolves the plastic on the cylinder wall or something. Anyway I've bought two of those over the years and the same thing happened to both.
If you go with the covered wagon, it needs big wooden wheels rolling along at the sides.
while that generally works for initial bleeding, the bleeders threads do not seal 100% and fluid/air will both leak out and get pulled back in through them. gravity bleeding after that usually clears it up or standard manual bleeding.
what I use is an extendable pole, to hold the pedal down as tight as I can get it against the seat, steering wheel, body, then go manually open the bleeder/close and relese/set pedal again, repeat for final bleeding.
About that windshield fogging... With all the cold air outside... And 4+ human beings and at least a K9 somewhere... Your max hot air approach to defogging might not be enough... Humidity.... I predict a future episode about putting AC in the Bombi for that task, as well as comfort in warmer weather.
Where was the welder earthed and who remembered to isolate the electronics?
They should cut a small hole in the cab or the floor through to the heater box so it sucks in some outside air. That will help it defrost much better. Without any fresh air it's like driving with recirc on in the winter.
@@TechnicalLee This! Also vents for air to escape the cabin are essential. Otherwise is just like driving with recirc ON.
I wouldn’t hurt to try an application of anti-fog on the windshield also.
Very nice progress on the Bombi. I liked having both shifters positioned so I could shift them both with one hand like that too when I drove trucks with five and fours. The easiest way to keep the inside of windows defogged, is to clean them really well, wipe them dry and have a vent or window open just enough to let out the moisture air from breath. Thanks for the video.
I have some old flatbed tarps that are yellow you could use for your covered wagon. I live in utah and pass through st george all the time so I could just bring them down
I cut off the claw part of my hammer years ago. I ground it smooth and rounded off the head slightly. I needed a hammer for body work inside a fender. Works great and it's my go to hammer now. We joke about it and it's officially my 50% OFF hammer now ! Same as yours.
Devout Matt’sORR follower since from the beginning. I graduated HS in SLC, and College in Ogden 27yrs ago and never came back to Utah. But because of Matt, this year I’ve now been back twice. Once for the games and this weekend to revisit my old stomping grounds. Forgot how wonderful everything was.
Matt's Off Road Recovery always makes me smile. Every time. 😊
YES! wagon top with bumble bee stripe pattern!!! Do it!!
That would be cool with a canvas top that is dyed yellow/black to maintain some realism.
And rename it to BomBee.
You going to install a roll bar with the soft top???
Absolutely!! & perhaps a brace of "Hobby Horses" leading like Santa's reindeer !! (& so the Kids have something to play with, during break downs or spare time...)
Matt,
You could always run a tube (round or square) off that heater box across the top of your dash. Put some 1/4 inch wide slits maybe 2 or 3 inches long, spaced out at 6 inch spacing.... That way you get straight up airflow across the entire window. (if you get fancy, you could add some sliding shutters to adjust airflow....). At each end of the tube, add another slit designed to throw air at your door windows. I think what you've built will keep the window defrosted, but I also think you'll end up with a very clear window for your passenger side, and frosting on the lower left of the drivers side.
Also, you're teaching the kids life skills that no one can take away. Good job! When I was in school, we had auto shop, welding shop, AG shop, wood shop..... It's sad that's all going away.
Keep up the great work!
24:40 …light touch on the steering sticks…
That was one of the first things my father taught me about driving a car. You don’t steer (horse the wheel around), you guide the car with a light touch. In fact, back in the day when all domestic cars had worm & sector steering boxes there was “free play” on center due to backlash between the gear teeth of the worm and the sector. You could just bump up against the side of the gear that would keep the car centered on the road.
The key to effective Defrosting or Defogging is removing the moisture from the cabin. Manufacturers have tied the air conditioning into the Defrost setting of the heater. But, if you're constantly in and out or driving with the doors open, it's like bailing out a boat while someone's drilling new holes in the bottom.
He's either driving in the desert or in the winter. So just having the heater-core pull from an outside vent might be enough. It would at least keep all the moisture from the passengers away from the windshield.
I can't accurately explain how dry it is in the winter here. Opening the door will actually dry the air.
A hanging hair dryer might work in an emergency. Something that suddenly cools the shield surface.
Letting in cold air (even humid air) and then heating up that air will result in relative humidity dropping.
@@MindBlowerWTF Heating humid air will drop relative humidity? That's news to me.
If you need more defrost without running the heat, I know a few endurance racers that run aftermarket defroster grids (like what most cars have on their rear windows) on the windshield to save weight over a heater and blower setup.
i was thinking about adding an economizer to allow outdoor air in idk tho haha 🤷🏻♂️
Electrically heated windshields have been standard equipment in Range Rovers for decades now. The grid is made of much finer wires embedded into the glass so you don’t really notice them.
@@tylermacconnell217They've been standard equipment on a lot of vehicles for a long time, pretty sure they'll not do one for the Bombi though, so knowing of an aftermarket option may be useful.
Really? They are very rare in the US. Name some vehicles they are offered on?
@@tylermacconnell217 possible spec differences between US and EU cars then, but the whole of the Ford group as noted with your Range Rover example, VAG, Merc, Porsche and GM, that I know of. Think it started as a Ford thing but their patent expired 2015 or similar, so they are going in virtually everything now (Europe at least).
Peanut is a gorgeous dog. She is so happy getting involved in everything you do. She loves her life.
To help with defrosting you need to have ventilation. The heater should draw outside air into the cab and vents should be added to the rear top of the cab. This configuration will draw in cold dry air and expel hot moist air. I would try this before adding AC.
There were a few cars that had a rear vent, back in the '60s or '70s. Probably for venting cigarette smoke, but same principle.
This would be worth a shot, since it'd be so much easier than adding A/C.
The bombi had a roof vent that they got rid of.
Definitely needs a roof vent, or open doors i guess.
@@Adam1nToronto Agree 100% All vehicles have it now pretty much. On cars and vans the vents are usually under the rear bumper side area. Trucks usually between the box and the back of the cab.
@@Adam1nToronto These vents are still there, with modern day AC vehicles. Tuck away in hidden from plain sight. The ventilation is essential in order to prevent any window from fogging up.
Hi Matt, Re fogging windows. I have a crew boat and operate 24/7 365. During winter it could be cold, hanging below 0c or a bit above. Boat has ample heating. However when a crew arrives after working hours in the rain sleet and snow they are cold and wet. The boat is warm and we end up with fogging problem on the windows. Similar to what you are experiencing with the Bombi and a crew aboard. So what we have found that works quite well is along with a dedicated heater for the front windows we also have mounted on each side a 6 inch 2 speed regular fan (caged) Also even then we may still not be able to keep up to fogging and what I have found was even if it is pouring rain or sleet I open my side windows (on the lea side of the vessel in heavy weather) about a 1/2 " on the leading edge of the glass.This brings in quite a bit of fresh air which although it is cold damp air, as it warms it becomes dry air and sucks the moisture out of the air. Soon my windows will have no fogging problems. I have to laugh sometimes as this condensation can be so severe that it starts to drip water off of the deckhead (ceiling) . Literally raining inside the boat.
Thanks to you and your crews for all the entertaining videos.
-- 1000% on board for the 'Covered Wagon' safari top.
Well I suppose it is 'kinda like' flying an airplane, depending on the aircraft, control surfaces, how they're actuated, if there is computer assistance (fly by wire, which I don't care for). But small, smooth moves work for a nice cruise in most everything I've flown. Like a lot of other things too. Shooting. Driving. ...you can oversteer just about anything on four wheels and with wings. An exception to the rule is 1st person shooter video games. You need to laser that mouse and jerk to a stop on something the size of a needlepoint.
I'll never get tired of watching you work on this thing. You've done so much more than I expected. I badgered and badgered you about this, now, think I owe you a thank you.
What a wonderful dad you are and what wonderful kids you have raised, keep doing what you are doing
Matt, I really enjoyed your lesson on differential orientation, I really liked Lizzy, but you have a wonderful lady with Katelynn! She is always smiling!
For the defrosting, try and get some glass made with the wire in it like rear windows(shouldn't be too hard as its just flat). That way it is just an electric defroster. I saw a time attack/rally car with it and it worked mint.
I think the diverter for the defroster should be on a hinge, so you can proportion it. In all the snow cats I've been in, the heater was greatly appreciated in the northern Utah areas when it was below zero. Remember Matt, when using grinders always use safety glasses. Turning your head and closing your eyes doesn't work when the wheel comes apart. Don't ask how I know.
The real danger from grinders is surfaces that are perpendicular to the piece you are cutting, because they will "deflect the shrapnel" in unpredictable directions resulting in a trip to E-merg . I did it multiple times in 25yrs, once just walking by a Iron worker cutting inside an H beam column. When you are letting your coworkers dab the metal out of your eye with their dirty fingers, you have stayed in the business too long.
Matt,
I have watched the episode of you finding your claw hammer was missing its claws. Let me tell you what happened. Many years ago, I was told that when you hit a claw hammer against another hammer, or in your case steel, it causes vibration through the hammer head. If you continue doing this, in time the vibrations will weaken the claws and they will fall off. I did not believe this until it happened to me. So, the correct tool for metal working is a ball peen hammer, a dead blow hammer, or a sledge hammer, and even a sheet metal hammer. Claw hammers are for woodworking projects because of the softer material. This was a lesson learned for me.
I really enjoy your TH-cam channel!
Yes a real long video today I love it thank you guys from Matt’s crew for always working hard and bring us these videos
Safely first, eye protection is always a must. Maybe add some sliced rubber hose on defroster vent to keep you from a laceration. Thx for watching! 🇺🇲⚒️🇺🇲
Colby‘s contribution is quite obvious in the production quality he brings to the channel when he is not involved.
I luv how sayings are different in some areas...we always said "you get what you get and you don't get upset." Thanks for sharing.
A couple of friendly suggestions,
Oil filled hubs
Electric windshield defrost as used by race cars (tape )
And a cab lift system like is used on truck cabs (cab over type) hydraulic rams ,hand pump or electric pump !
I like your willingness to build anything you might need. But when you are working on or around good paint or glass you really should mask off the area using some 3M welding and spark deflection paper 05916. It does a great job of keeping sparks and weld splatter from etching into the windows or the paint.
Katlyn is always smiling she is just a darling 😊
It's great to see how much Rhett takes great pride in the work he does, not just in its function but also its appearance.
Yeah, I wouldn't be ashamed to learn welding from Rhett at all.
The LMC snow cat I used to operate had a heated window. Did a great job of defrosting without excessive heat. Maybe a custom one is the ticket for ye?
Matt, as a young man one of my favourite hotrod racers (short oval) here in the UK had issues with his differentials due to continually pulling G in the long corners. This threw oil up the half shaft tubes and starved the diff. Years later I found that he used an electric bilge pump to scavenge the oil and throw it at the actual differential internals. Not exactly your problem but maybe worth considering? Easier on the Bombi because the axle is not sprung...
Yes please to the covered wagon style safari top! Can’t wait to see a horseless wagon with tracks at the top of the world! Also looking forward to the spud truck!
Thank you Matt and crew for the update on the Bombi ! It's coming along very well !
To keep the fog down you actually need ac. Modern cars when you run the defrost setting they have the ac on to dehumidify the air so they run air through the ac condenser first to dehumidify then through the heater block to heat it back up.
You might be able to fudge it a little bit by pulling outside air through the heater to get the humidity lower.
I think the AC would help the most. Then temp could be controled for everybody. Or some kind of dehumidifier system would help keep the fog down.
@@nsh0325pppactually you don't want outside air generally with one that has AC because the outside air has more moisture, but perhaps not in Utah.
In Utah and anywhere with winter, just pulling outside air into the heater core will be plenty to keep humidity down.
A/C doesn't work when it's below freezing outside. Fresh outside air is what you want for winter driving, not A/C.
The Bombi is just pure awesome. Careful welding around glass, spatter can mark it up pretty easily. Does Henri's truck still have those stupid side post batteries? They're notorious for poor contact and creating high draw and burning starters. Ask me how I know? Simple fix if it already doesn't have it is to put a couple of 3/8 stainless bolts with jam nut in so you can securely fasten the cables. Starter burning eliminated. Hope this helps
Good job Katlyn. Just remember it's one word
"Thaingoinowhere"
Emphasis on the "-NOWHERE"
The Bombi is looking good...plenty alterations for the best...It will be awesome when finished...Stay safe and catch you on the next one
I like the covered wagon idea!
That bombi has been quite the big project. But what a fun build it has been
Now you guys need a popcorn machine to make up for the lack of store runs!
(Chuckles) My original reply was going to be “What does popcorn have to do with sore nuts?”
Are you trying to be me?😂
That's a good idea, but there's a catch. Popcorn machines need to be cleaned
regularly. We can guess who'll get stuck with that job. Yep, the blonde Princess Leia. ;)
@@ADude-f3z Yep, I read it the same way. The joys of aixelsyD!
@@ADude-f3z😊😊😊aa
you should add an external oil cooler and a small pump which can suck oil oiut of the diff, through the cooler, and have it splash back down directly on those spider gears so that the pinion and bearings and etc are all oiled as they normally would be but ALSO the pump is directly oiling the open diff internals...kinda like how Ford started adding little oil sprayers to spray the underside of their pistons to keep them cool...same idea
I'm sensing the heater diffuser will work great on the passenger side of Bombi's windscreen. Only time will tell.
Just a thought: some sort of grill over the defogger to keep small items from falling down into the blower.
A small grill would be a great place to warm tacos, too! :-)
Your friends starter issue and why he has to keep changing them might be a chafed solenoid wire touching the frame. I had the same issue and changed out a few starters before I started following the solenoid wire back to the ignition and found the bare wire within a couple of feet of the starter.
Often its also too light a circuit powering the starter solenoid.
Some starter solenoids draw 10 amps or more so often the solution is to put in a universal 40 amp relay powered off the starter main lug and fused for 15 to 20 amps. That way the ignition switch or original weak circuit is only supporting a load in the milli-amp range to flip the universal relay.
The starter drive will also more positively engage promoting longer starter drive and flywheel ring gear life plus you won't as likely experience solenoid flutter causing weak starts and starter motor overheating.
Last one I did the owner looked at me slack jawed when $25 worth of parts solved his years long problem with weak starts and starter failures. He had even replaced the main cable all the way back to the battery which along with other attempted solutions had cost him over $2,000.
Best!
Matt, if you make a closeable "valve" for the heater to pull in outside air, it will help with the fogging. The heated, cold dry outside winter air will remove the windshield moisture much better than just increasing the cab temperature above the ever increasing humidity from all the breathing.
Just a 70s style fender air inlet setup to the heater box.
Would be cool if that defroster vent was adjustable! (able to tilt back and forth, maybe with piano hinges?). ALSO: A new saying for Matt: "I thought that I was wrong once,,, but I was mistaken".
I sure hope it never falls of the lift ! ! ! ! Thanks for sharing !
A RV roof fan would take care of most of the humidity/fog'in up problems and push the farts from all that fast food out of the small cab.
The way your crew handles recoveries and the equipment you've built and are building reminds me of the 80s cartoon Rescue Heros. LOL. I had an idea for a mobile anchor system for the WLOW. It would be a hydrolic assisted screw in anchor. You could load different achor heads ( narrow for dirt and gravel, wide for mud and sand) the device would screw the anchor in. Then attach a winch line to the anchor.
So glad Katlyn starts to do more and more things. To me it looks like she has become a more important part of the team within the last five (or so) episodes and it is always a pleasure to see and hear her laugh.
Henry's tiny-house/house- boat is crazy! No way that's not tipping over without some pontoons. What a project!
Also, love Peanut getting exciting after the cheer! 😅
By the time you read this it will probably be to late ( reassembled)..
The spider gear that the shaft slides into is a slip fit into the carrier. that slip fit area is where the hispeed nonbearing rotation occurs (on either side) ... On some farm machinery this was a common problem (overhead / gauling)
We would cut a groove in the outer part of the spider gear that fit into the carrier for better oil "flow" - movement durring hi-speed rotation
The Bombi is looking really good!! Can't wait until we see it out on its first recovery!! I bet it will perform perfectly!!! 😲😁
I legitimately hope you make a Conestoga Wagon Bombi. I cannot stress enough how amazing that would be.
Have you thought about a heated windscreen? Ford use the tech most - it has very fine wires running through the laminate between the two pieces of glass. Draws about 30 amps though I think, but would keep it clear and prevent overheating inside the cabin. It’ll be relatively expensive to have made, but not ridiculous as it’s flat. Oh, and do please put something on the edges of the defrost deflector - whilst I love the fabrication it makes me pucker just to look at!
Good job Matt cool video!!! That is quite a machine!! can’t wait to see it work!!
It would make sense to put a light gauge metal channel over your exposed brake lines. You could screw the channels in place and put a top on each channel, and that would protect the lines from rocks and chunks of snow that the tracks throw up. That would make the protective channels easy to remove when you need access to the brake lines. Right now, you are set up for another problem if the tracks throw rocks or compacted snow into one of your brake lines. This is a simple fix, and it will work. You could install these channels in a little more than an hour.
It’s done just in time for summer 🤣. It looks awesome and I bet it’s even better in person. 🍻🤙🏻
one problem with re-manufactured starters is the inside of the housing gets sandblasted so much the plunger comes out too far, if it comes out too far it will bind and won't start again. The coil pulls, the starter spins, but the gear doesn't engage. put a set screw through in the end of the solenoid to prevent over extension.
just for my curiosity.... why not run a front axle? clearly your not afraid to weld on new tubes. seems like it would solve all your oil sumping issues.
the engine is in the back. where would the engine be if the drive axel was in the back?
I feel like he said the rear ones are more robust
@@ReeceLain Easy peasy. I can think of three ways off the top of my head that it's already been done. Motorhome, 4wd truck with only a front axle and the Olds Toronado chain drive. In fact, when I first looked at what they were doing with the Bombi my first thought was the Toronado drive.
@@3rdpigyup! The Tornado drive worked so well that they used it in the old GMC motorhomes too. Plenty of power and reliability. The only problem is that Tom Tom didn't have one lying around for 9 years.
Rear engine reverses the driveline rotation direction, using a front axle you'd be using the coast side of the gears as a transfer case keeps the driveshaft rotation the same when redirecting forward. It too would have to be flipped over to get the rotation correct and would also be using the weaker side of the gears and would become a low pinion.
Also, I don't think any axle is going to do well with spider gear lubrication. They just aren't engineered for "single tire fire" in long durations.
There is a reason the ripsaw disconnects the shafts and uses a spool instead of spinning spiders. But its a complicated and fairly heavy arrangement.
You will need to add outside air into the defroster to defog the windshield. If it circulating just the interior air it will always fog up. An additional exit vent may be needed as well. I worked for a Toyota dealership in the early 90’s and people would come in with a common complaint about their defroster that would not clear the windshield. The service advisors would change the HVAC controls from cabin recirculate to fresh air and within moments the windshield would defog. Most cars either run the a/c to remove the moisture or introduce outside air. Most of those customers were switching from American made cars that switched the a/c on in defrost and it was a learning curve to the old manual controls of the Toyotas of the day. In the Corvair we would roll the driver window down about an inch to help it defog the windshield because it struggled to move the air the full length of the car.
I never thought you'd be able to replace Lizzie when she left and moved on. I thought Lizzie would be difficult to replace, but after seeing Caitlin and how well she's assimilating into the crew I'm SUPER IMPRESSED! Welcome, Caitlin - can't wait to see how to progress with the crew.
Factory vehicles run the AC during defrost/defog mode above 35-40 F to remove the humidity from the cab air before it passes thru the heater core to warm up the dried air to defog the windows. Since you do not have AC in the Bombi and you often have so many people inside, their breath adds a lot of humidity, so you do need to exchange some of the cab air with the outdoor air to vent and lower the humidity and CO2 and also take in fresh air with more O2 so that you all don't suffocate. Factory vehicles usually are always pulling in fresh outside air with the blower fan (the blower fans always run in in the off position, positive ventilation) at around 15%.
Thanks for starting on the "right" track today, Matt!
Matt's cheasy humour is great!
A fan out of a bus on the ceiling facing the window with help with air flow! I would also suggest putting ball valves for the heater core because it will always get hot even when the fan is off, the coolant will always run through it and it’ll be hot in the summer!
hapy memorial weekend..stay safe...Peace
I real love watching you guys working the Mark 1 Eyeball CAD designing. It goes really well with the Hammer/ Grinder and Muscle CNC products manufacturing.
Here a suggestion for your diff. Add a 12v oil pump to squirt your oil on the spline gears and everything inside the diff.
Completely uneccessary if you install reverse cut gears made just for this purpose.
Add a gallon sump too.
@@harveynailbanger Those diff dont have one unlike the Dana's.
The Covered Wagon would be incredible!
I definitely miss Tom Tom and I'm happy he has a channel. I really enjoy watching Matt work with his boys. They're good kids. I can't wait to see Karter more though, I'm fascinated by that kid since I saw him on their cruise trip. He seems like quite a character.
Love the whole team....and Katelynn is a total blast!!
gotta get a bee top for when you take it through a parade
To avoid the cab from sliding off of the hoist and clearance issues when raising and lowering the cab, you could use some hangers like soft shackles to attach the cab lifting tabs to the lift. This would allow the cab some movement while remaining securely attached to the lift.
Fog X from the makers of Rain X. This will help with your foggy window.
You work so good with the kids Matt this is really teaching them responsibility and work ethics while they are having fun at the same time Good job.
And peanut for the finish❤
May get buried but make sure to run a GL5 spec gear oil for the differential. Preferably a synthetic option like Delvac 75w90. GL5 has extra EP (EXTREME PRESSURE) additives which should help the boundary lubrication problem your having on the spider gears. Synthetics are also going to flow better especially as the temp drops and should help get oil to everything and keep it there
I see you taking a sand bath with the Safari top 😂😂
Hey Matt! An A/C system acts as a dehumidifier when the defrost is turned on in any late vehicle later than 1990 and makes defrosting a windshield effortless.
Let's go Rhett!! Awesome dude!!
Can't hardly wait to see the Bombi completed and in the snow! Great solution for the defroster!
“You getting good grades?” “ Yes….I’m passing”. 😂
LOL!
Rhett might not be at the top of his class, but how many of his classmates do you think know how to weld?
@@JohnFL I wasn’t knocking him by any means. I just laughed at his response because it is a typical teen response and smirk when asked.
The Bombi is really looking like something now. Really like the new front axle looks like it will hold up. Thanks for sharing 😊.
Tom Tom made that Clawless Hammer for Matt before he left to run his shop peace
Sire, my 2c is that the cabin and the windshield are fogging heavily simply because there's no vents at the back of the cabin which the moist air would be able to escape. Moist air being sweating operator(s) and / or wet clothes, melting snow etc. Take a look any of the passenger cars, trucks etc. there's these vents in plain sight or hidden away so that the cabin air will be able to vent out.
Weld a second head on the hammer. Two heads are better than one.
Soon he'll be using a tri-ball hitch!
Absolutely great to see that everyone takes pride in their projects and want to see it through to the end!
Makes me happy to see all that PPE. Another great video!
Worried about PPE is wild.
@@E.TenHag I've been in construction for over 20 years, and have an OSHA-30 certificate. Yeah, I pay attention to safety. I'm WILD! lol.
I run snow cat every winter building winter roads, and never have driven a cat with controls beside me. They are between your legs so we call crotch sticks, or electric on the arm rest. That’s how you have more control to steer. But do love the builld and thanks for sharing
No sir, a true high pinion differential housing is not “just flipped upside down.” It is manufactured for the specific orientation.
Past experience.....you might want to put some sort of screen on the defroster vent......to keep foreign objects n Lil critters out of the heater...🤔😉
Where's Jefe? 🤔
Jefe does a lot behind the scenes as the production manager.
Flipping the differential, is an idea, for future use. My dad turned a 3 ton truck into a fork lift, for a thrashing crew, 1950's. Swapped the position of the steering and seat.. 4 gears now going backwards. With no cab, the high speed turns, would slide you off the bench seat, out the side. Had to make canvas strapping seat belts, to stay with the truck. Great fun, till the combines took over.
Darth Rhett
Not sure what your current heater setup consists of, but you may need to add an AC compressor and evaporator/condenser to your system if it continues to fog up. Yes you are blowing heat, but the cold surface of the windshield is condensing moisture in the cab leading to fog. Adding a condenser before the heater core will condense moisture from the air and “dry” the cabin air.
Henry just trying to get some views 😅 he stop at Robby’s to fix the same problem
I’ve watched you from the beginning Matt and never commented. I’ve gotta respect your stubbornness to make that brake steering work. I was frustrated you didn’t abandon it long ago and convert to hydrostatic. I stil predict you’ll ultimately have to do that but your perseverance is something to behold😂
STILL HAVE NEVER SEEN KAITLIN ACTUALLY DO ANYTHING FOR REAL, WHAT IS HER PURPOSE ??
For you to ask 🤣🤣
Driving the Samurai , handling tools, filming from different angles....