Try using a black tray for your first wash in chlorinated tap water. This way you’ll see the cloudy precipitate easier. Fix for at least 15 minutes in a %15 solution of sodium thiosulfate. If you can take a workshop from someone who is an expert in historic processes, it will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. Mark Osterman / Scully & Osterman Studio
Hi, thanks for the video! I really wish you had elaborated more on negatives - how you get your curves right for this super low-contrast process. I've been trying to find the way to boost contrast, but with no much luck yet. Pushing curves leads to lack of detail (with digital negs), pushing 9x12 analog negs - same problem, adding dichromate didn't change anything. I guess mb changing UV lights (I'm using solarium lamps) to real sun might help, but there is literally no sun for half a year where I live, so it's not an option. VDB seems more contrasty, but it's more complicated to make a solution for it. So, I'm still trying to figure the contrast in salt printing, any tips would be much appreciated!
I had the same problem! This is gonna seem counter intuitive to what you’re used to but youre gonna need some negatives that are a lot denser than what you’re used to. As a scan they’re probably gonna look very over exposed but you need that for salt printing. Because I’d the highlight areas aren’t dense enough they’re not gonna block the light from exposing the paper and the contrast is gonna be low. You may have to shoot some brand new negatives specifically with salt printing in mind. Hope this helps a little!!
Honestly, after years of doing these prints, I now just adjust the negative in Photoshop to my liking. I make it a little more, just by visual-I tried curves and all that years ago and it was a pain in the bum. I found it complex and time wasting and exhausting. I print the negatives on plain bond paper, in the strongest red I can get. Then I brush them thoroughly with olive oil or any good oil, wipe them off and let them 'dry' for a while. I then print with them. I lose a little sharpness., but it's cheap and I love the look. There is a limit to how deep the darks can ever be with a salt print-you will see that around the edges if any areas of sensitising solution are exposed to the sun or your UV lamp.
Did not know that it was so easy to make salt prints, will give it a go! Next video , hold the camera still. It’s hard to get a good long look at something if the video camera moves around.
Very good. I have been making salt prints on and off for some years. I think it's a good idea to make the first rinse in salt water. That will help remove any remaining silver. Even a second time is a good idea-before fixing. A good five minutes each time will be better. I see that many people use a hypo clearing agent after fixing. I am going to start doing that as well before the final wash. I am also going to tone all the better prints with gold. I have prints nearly 10 years old that are not toned and are still in excellent condition, but from now on I don't want to take any more chances with problems after all the work I do. Best wishes. :-)
Try using a black tray for your first wash in chlorinated tap water. This way you’ll see the cloudy precipitate easier. Fix for at least 15 minutes in a %15 solution of sodium thiosulfate. If you can take a workshop from someone who is an expert in historic processes, it will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. Mark Osterman / Scully & Osterman Studio
I think Mark Osterman retired. Love your handle btw!
@@TheNegative Osterman is still giving workshops - live and/or online.
Hi, thanks for the video! I really wish you had elaborated more on negatives - how you get your curves right for this super low-contrast process. I've been trying to find the way to boost contrast, but with no much luck yet. Pushing curves leads to lack of detail (with digital negs), pushing 9x12 analog negs - same problem, adding dichromate didn't change anything. I guess mb changing UV lights (I'm using solarium lamps) to real sun might help, but there is literally no sun for half a year where I live, so it's not an option. VDB seems more contrasty, but it's more complicated to make a solution for it. So, I'm still trying to figure the contrast in salt printing, any tips would be much appreciated!
I had the same problem! This is gonna seem counter intuitive to what you’re used to but youre gonna need some negatives that are a lot denser than what you’re used to. As a scan they’re probably gonna look very over exposed but you need that for salt printing. Because I’d the highlight areas aren’t dense enough they’re not gonna block the light from exposing the paper and the contrast is gonna be low. You may have to shoot some brand new negatives specifically with salt printing in mind. Hope this helps a little!!
@@TheNegative actually … that makes perfect sense to me, I’ll play with highlight density, probably just make a few options and test. Thanks!
Honestly, after years of doing these prints, I now just adjust the negative in Photoshop to my liking. I make it a little more, just by visual-I tried curves and all that years ago and it was a pain in the bum. I found it complex and time wasting and exhausting. I print the negatives on plain bond paper, in the strongest red I can get. Then I brush them thoroughly with olive oil or any good oil, wipe them off and let them 'dry' for a while. I then print with them. I lose a little sharpness., but it's cheap and I love the look. There is a limit to how deep the darks can ever be with a salt print-you will see that around the edges if any areas of sensitising solution are exposed to the sun or your UV lamp.
the maple leaf came out nice !! hahaha
Had to put the maple leaf for the Canadian viewers 😂
@@TheNegative I'm Canadian so I noticed it right away ;)
very interesting! thanks for sharing I might try one day!
Did not know that it was so easy to make salt prints, will give it a go! Next video , hold the camera still. It’s hard to get a good long look at something if the video camera moves around.
What fixer other than sodiumtrisulfate can be used?
You can use any fixer technically but I’ve heard they remove too much of the print density. You can give it a try and let me know how it turns out.
I don't think you need to keep the salt solution in a brown bottle ...
You don’t! It’s not light sensitive. The bottles came in a pair though so why not.
Very good. I have been making salt prints on and off for some years. I think it's a good idea to make the first rinse in salt water. That will help remove any remaining silver. Even a second time is a good idea-before fixing. A good five minutes each time will be better. I see that many people use a hypo clearing agent after fixing. I am going to start doing that as well before the final wash. I am also going to tone all the better prints with gold. I have prints nearly 10 years old that are not toned and are still in excellent condition, but from now on I don't want to take any more chances with problems after all the work I do. Best wishes. :-)
Great video, thanks.
You’re welcome!
I cal bs on the contact frames and why not pay the exstra money
Not sure what you mean. You can buy any one you like but what I meant was that people price them really high for no particular reason.