Great stuff! I have also been experimenting with a Rolleicord and cyanotype, and I have found that you can get permanent washed images, but they take a lot longer - 2-3 hours for non-backlit image.
i love your passion for these creative processes & im rly grateful that u dedicate so much time & energy to sharing what u have learned. ur video format is rly helpful to follow along w the details but still stay engaged.
I put it into my 4x5 view camera several years ago. Worked great. I also made paper negative and a few contact prints from the paper negative. Loads of fun. Great video.
Thank you for being inventive in the technique. Most people never try Cyanotype photography, but your images are attractive. I've used full 8x10 coated paper and static objects placed under an old picture frame. Well done!
Great video I know I might be a little late but you can actually develop those negatives with 7% vinegar 1/1 with water. That's at least what worked for me so you can use those negatives to actually make a positive!
Hello Anthony thanks so much, I have recently found a much better way to do this using a pre treated paper called nature print paper, the good thing is when you rinse it the image is retained and the paper becomes truly white making the final image scan and inversion look as it should. the paper can be gotten on amazon, here is a link to my FLickr album using it. flic.kr/s/aHsmPbjPdG
Hello thanks much Casey, honestly I need to do a follow up to this because I found a pre treated paper called nature print that makes my coating process obsolete as you can rinse it and get pure whites. check out this photo album of the updated images im getting. I think I put info where to get it in the description also. flic.kr/s/aHsmPbjPdG
Great Video! Rollei made a really nice conversion back for the Rolleiflex and Rolleicord which lets you use cut film in little darkslides. They turn up on Ebay quite often. The advantage is you can load your cyanotype paper beforehand and not have to mess around trying to avoid fogging while loading and unloading 'in the field'. Best wishes from the UK.
I’m using the same camera I already had. Missed the comment on washing so all my earlier efforts failed. Lots of sun later in the day. Thanks for showing this method. Lots of inspiration.
Ray awesome videos i did this back in 2001 in expiremental photo class. You got it way better. I tried in 4x5 and 10x8 graflex cameras from the teens. Never thought of useing a 220. Im a scout leader for my kids cub scouts im doing a cynatype when we gobto camp grounds with them. Thanks for inspiring-Jay
This video was extremely helpful...thank you for taking the time to do this. You gave good tips, speak clearly and do not have background music. And your neighborhood image is amazing and as you said it does have a mood that's difficult to describe. The trees definitely frame the image and it looks like it was taken in the late 1950's. I also love the low placement of the houses and expanse of sky with the trees. Seriously, I would mat and frame that.
Hello thank you so much I'm glad this was helpful. I actually found a better way to do this using a pre treated paper called nature print, it retains the image after rinsing and gives accurate white and blue. I put links in the description, here's some photos taken with it. Hope this helps www.flickr.com/gp/aloyandersonphotography/1p4g4w
Try pinhole camera, just build a box with hole and put bigger coated paper. I am in UK so no good sun index at this time. I will try it on summertime. Thanks for video and idea
Amazing research, congratulations. I've been struggling looking for a video like this one of yours... It just came to my mind that in camera cyanotype should be possible and I'm so happy I found your confirmation. Thanks a lot!
these images look almost poetic in their simplistic beauty. and the water tower is right out of a science fiction story, very etherial! just yesterday I bought Jacquard cyanotype purple and am looking forward to experimenting with it. thanks for this great video. your creative curiosity benefits us all!
I like your discussion of uv in a scene. Makes perfect sense, but I don't think it would have occurred to me to seek out subjects that were particularly rich in uv. Good Stuff!
Hello Ian thank you yes many of these old cameras are mechanical gems. Once I rested it on a fence and a strong wind blew it to the ground in some grass and gravel my heart stopped, wasn't broken but has a few small scratches.
Hello how are you? That's a good question, I printed the photo on a clear sheet of plastic but I inverted it as a negative before printing so that it would end up a positive
Love it! I myself am experimenting with in-camera anthotypes. My best anthotype paper is still far less sensitive than cyanotype paper (requiring multiple-day exposures in a homemade camera for very poor results), BUT it responds well to a wide range of light colors and not just UV. I'm still hopeful I will succeed in getting a good image. Your video was beautifully presented and inspiring. Thank you.
ooo man, i've been thinking of doing the same stuff for years, i have the chemicals i bought 10 years ago, both of them are stored in amber bottles and stored in a cool dark place. i've tested using my negatives and exposed them under direct sunlight, results seems pretty good, signs that my chemicals are still good. i'm gonna try to use your methos using my holga instead. thanks a lot ray and by the way, those are sick photos you got there dude.
Hello thank you, I actually started using a pre treated paper called nature print, its much better as you can rinse it and the image remains. I put a link in the description.
This is really terrific. Thanks for posting. I recently got a toyo 4x5 and had not thought about making cyanotypes with it. Now I can't wait to give it try.
Wow, great work , Ray. I love the organic look you got. Sometimes it's the imperfections that create the beauty. You gotta get some palm trees with that process.
Thanks Ted and I agree about the palm trees I actually set up for a set of palm trees one morning outside the job I was at and my client showed up early so I had to shut down the camera only 2 minutes and the image was useless. Hard to find time in a busy work week . I'm gonna work at fine tuning them though.
First, I want to thank you a lot! I hesitated so much before using cyanotype in a camera. I am not really interrested in its inital use that is objects scanning. And the only photography's results I saw were... disapointing. But now you gave some sort of motivation to keep on the cyanotype photography!
@@Raychristofer Hello, no and it is your first video I watched. I started analogic photography when I found two old cameras in my house (Canon AE-1 program, and Revue 400L). But argentic photography is a long process, and I prefer non-standard ones. So I studied pinhole cameras to learn more about light, optic, etc. Now I feel ready to make a camera with a lens. I plan the aperture to be very large in order to reduce the shutter-speed while using cyanotype. I hesitated for monthes because of the possible results but your experiments are very convicting. My first results should come later. Please forgive my english grammar :)
@@Raychristofer Hello, this is me, one year later. Today, I finally achieved making a decent cyanotype positive picture, without any use of computer. I used transparent paper, gelatin, and more to take the picture, make a negative then transfer it into a positive picture. I researched on it for about 6 months in order to get the best quality possible. Thank you for getting me into it! If you want to know more, it would be a pleasure to discuss about this process Have a good day !
Nice work. I am just getting back into photography this last year. Cyanotype is just up my alley for budget print. Can't wait to see what results I get. Thanks again
Awesome man thank you. To be honest cyanotype in camera is quite difficult but give it a try. Actually I recommend also shooting dark room paper in camera that's a fun way to challenge yourself and I've been getting some good results with that as well I'm working on a video review of how to do it but it's taking weeks to put together
@@Raychristofer it surely on my photography bucket list. I am in central Florida and my materials have been hostage in TN for three days. I missed the dead line for an IG contest. But that's ok I waited 15 years I can do few more days. Keep up the great work.
Thank you for publishing these results of your investigations. They are very helpful for me whilst considering the same issue. Have you ever considered trying to use bigger format glass dry plates with gelatin cyanotype coating? The gelatin assures an even coating and protects the material from floating away and the glass doesn't soak the coating, which should result in a more efficient penetration of UV light into the layer. As the "normal" coating of glass or tin dry plates with UV and blue light sensitive emulsion works quite fine, I think that Cyanotype should not make a huge difference.
Cool! I love that water tower photo. It looks like something out of war of the worlds. I wonder if this would work with a pinhole camera. Since there is no lens in a pinhole camera maybe the uv rays would get through better. How about one of those simple box cameras that have a bulb mode that has a single lens?
Fantastic video, thank you! I'm really excited to start playing with cyanotypes. I love making my own cameras, and this technique means size is almost no object... :)
Awesome that's what I want to hear definitely share your social media I'd like to see what you're doing. Also look maybe two months ago I posted a tutorial how to do traditional cyanotype as well
@@Raychristofer Great, I'll check that out! If I get any half decent results I'll pop them on my Flickr (and maybe IG) , feel free to follow :) www.flickr.com/photos/simontomlinson IG @turtletwist
Hey analog thanks for checking this out I appreciate that. recently I started using a pretreated paper called nature print paper and what is beautiful about it is I can actually wash the paper and the print remains. What is important with that is I can get the paper back two white instead of yellow and when it's scanned and inverted the colors are more pure and I get much more fine detail. I'm going to show you an album with the new method. flic.kr/s/aHsmPbjPdG
Hello how are you? I guarantee you would get absolutely no image on the pin hole. I actually tried it on a large format camera and the image did not burn in properly at all it was so faint because large format lenses have smaller apertures and the lenses are further from the film plane.
Ray you do such a wonderful job explaining these techniques. I need more videos. I am so glad that I found and subscribed to you. God bless you and keep up the great work. I look forward to the next video.
Hello thank you so much, yes I pull my hair out when I watch tutorials that aren't clear so I try to be easy to understand. Definitely check out my latest video it's a full cyanotypes tutorial on doing it with paper, fabric and photographs. Thanks for your support
@@Raychristofer I Have already watched all your videos that I have interest in. That is why I need more. Ray you have the talent, the voice and the patience for this. I cannot wait until more people catch on. You will be a great success and I will be here watching it happen. 😊❤🥰
@@NeitherYouNorIAreRight hey thanks so much. Some of these videos take as much as 3 weeks to put together so I'm not able to upload is often but thanks for your support 😊
Thank you so much for this video ! I wanted to do that a few weeks ago but didn't try because I didn't want to get negtive images, but you motivated me ! Keep on going, you gained a subscriber :)
Great video. I love your grainy, haunting images. As you say - the antithesis of “Digital Perfection” I’ve been looking to try some of these alternative processes in camera, by coating strips of paper. A 120 roll is about 1m (3.3ft), so you can get a lot of images from a roll of art paper (such as Awagami papers). I’ve also been thinking of using old Polaroid film packs. I have a mamiya RB67 and a Polaroid back,so I might well try this Have you considered applying a wash of coffee to your prints? Fix with white vinegar or sodium carbonate, then soak in coffee and rinse in vinegar again
Very relevant experiment, I believe there is still room for innovation here. A photo paper /solvent for large format with a dead simple process would be next generation. We need to make it more light sensitive first.
Wow I love this! Gonna try it in my 4x5 camera when my chemicals arrive in the mail today :) thanks for making this video, I’m looking forward to watching more of your videos.
.LOL thanks so much yelling that's funny you said that because a subscriber gifted me a 4 x 5 last week it's called in Newton New view. I'm in a field right now doing a in-camera of that same windmill for my first test. One thing I have to say is I instead using the chemicals to coat my paper I started buying a pretreated paper called nature print.what is incredible about it is the image remains on the paper even after yourinse it so the color is romaine accurately white and blue instead of yellow. look at the link to my Instagram I have some sample images shot using that paper. instagram.com/p/CCHcyfCn_3w/?igshid=1gx2k29hj1j86
Hello thanks for checking this out it's one of my longest videos. there's a lot more things I would like to try I just don't have the time or the equipment 😞
Hello Ray. I’m a little late to the party on your video here and I don’t normally comment on videos. However, I feel compelled to write to let you know how inspirational your video was! You’ve saved me a lot of time and hassle. But above all, you’ve motivated me to try this! Congratulations on your various trials to get the desired results. I also liked the way you gave credit to those photographers, before you, who’ve developed this technique and from whom you’ve derived the ideas to use in your own work. Well done indeed!! 👍⭐️⭐️⭐️
Hello thank you so much, please let me see some of your results and I don't know if you saw the notes in the video but I'm getting much better results with a pre-treated paper called nature print because it allows me to rinse
Hello thank you. I hand spooled a roll of nature print onto a 120 roll so I'll be trying my Mamiya m645 ,having 2.8 instead of 3.5 should help with a darker negative print
Awesome! Thank you for the tips. I have had their Cyanotype kit sitting on my shelf for a coupke of months and you inspired me to mix it up and use it. I have an old 6x9 folding camera that I will have to try it with.
Love this, Ray! Was about to test some 4x5 holders using cyanotype paper, but was going to just test the darkside light trap (keeping the shutter closed) - now I'm going to run those tests as exposures, both to test this technique and see if there are any leaks :)
Hello Dan that's awesome man. I'm actually testing some pretreated cyanotype paper that was sent to me by a company called nature print paper and it is excellent for in camera because the image is actually retained after you rinse it and the paper becomes white again in the unexposed areas instead of staying yellow. if you'd like to see some preliminary tests check out my Instagram the link is in my homepage, I'm glad I was able to help
@@Raychristofer Raychristofer Just saw those! I'm using pretreated sheets of Sunprint paper (had a pack of it I was using with my neice and nephew a few months ago), though I also have the Jaquard bottles ready to go. I'll do some tests on these exposures and see how well this brand of paper holds onto the image after rinsing... 🙌🏼
Amazing Ray! I just got the idea about to take the photos this way and looking for someone with the same idea. Thank you for this. So glad I can see someone like you. Pure inspiration. I will try with my 100 type camera. Can't wait. Regards from Czech Republic
Oh teacher, but how did you do to put the paper inside of your camera? It's a normal paper? I have a Kodak Brownie and I would like to try it without using a film cause here in Mexico they don't exist anymore and the few films are very expensive and I would to take pictures like you did this what I have been trying to find , about how to take photos without a film I would really thank to you
Hey! Thanks for this amazing video! I wonder if you ever considered making a double-negative cyanotype to maintain the whole process analog. Can't wait to see your new stuff!
Most of the lenses have some anti uv coating and other coating for flare etc., so maybe that's why you're need so much sun light... Very good video by the way ;)
Thank you GB, yes I agree and even when I put a glass plate on top of the traditional cyanotypes to hold the flowers flat you can clearly see the paper that is not behind the glass gets darker so I can imagine multiple lens elements doing that as well. I'm curious if I tried a very old uncoated 3 element lens how it would behave
Ohhh... lovely video, great content, great presentation. I've been playing with pinhole cameras. I know exactly what you mean about mood in the pics you get from 'low-fi' imaging techniques. This is a step or two lower-fi than pinhole... I've got an ancient Rolleicord... I'm going to try it. (I briefly thought about using this technique with a pinhole, then realised the exposure time would be measured in years...)
Hello thank you, I really want to try pinhole I actually made one of my micro 4/3 lens cap into a pinhole but the image is soft because I realized the lens cap is too far from the sensor. They do make recessed pinhole lens caps but they're about $80? What the neck lol. When you make your PIN hole cameras how do you find the optimal distance from the film
@@Raychristofer I went straight in large with pinhole - got an ONDU 6x17.Thinking about distance from film, thought it would be simple but of course it isn't. There are optimal pinhole sizes (too big, blurred; too small, diffraction) and distances (too close, small; too far, dim). There's a calculator here that lets you pick your focal length and pinhole size. it works out the rest: www.mrpinhole.com/calcpinh.php
Awesome, it's a great was to still use and breath life into those older manual cameras without burning through film. Glad it was helpful. Plz let me see your results, I've never been able to try large format.
@@Raychristofer Will do.....I wonder if there is a way to coat transparent material instead of paper ? This way a Cyanotype negative can be made. In turn making a Cyanotype print from that negative keeping the whole process analog.
@@tonytfuntek3262 that's a very good observation. I have some plastic sheets very thin that I use to print negatives on from my inkjet printer and I use that to reproduce photos on cyano. The last time I tried to coat the cyano material on the sheet it dripped off and wouldn't stay coated. In the old days they would add gelatin to photographic material to keep it thick that's where the term silver gelatin print comes from. I wonder if adding gelatin to the cyqno liquid could do the same thing.
@@Raychristofer WOW.....you nailed it !!! I just watched a youtube video from Joseph J. McAllister and he printed a Cyanotype on glass.....his secret ingredient....gelatin. He didn't go into the fine detail on how, but it sounds like you're on the correct path.
@@tonytfuntek3262 awesome my man, I watched some Eastman Kodak videos on the history of photography. Actually the balls in your court now to continue where I left off
hello thanks so much. At some point I plan to do a traditional cyanotype tutorial as well as how to do it on fabric so stay tuned in the coming weeks or months
this so good. I built a box camera using a large magnifying glass as a lens. I use it with black & white darkroom paper for a negative and have been wondering if it would work with cyanotype. thanks for the video
Hello Peter man that sound slick man I would love to see a video about that. it takes a certain kind of person to undertake making his own camera. Where can I see your work
Raychristofer ha! it may sound slick but it’s made from foamcore and gaffers tape :-) I’ve not really had success with it yet because the aperture is so large and I have no shutter. Yesterday I did make some aperture inserts but haven’t tried them yet. I was thinking cyanotype because the long exposure times would be easier to control. It’s a fun experiment so far.
@@peter-robinson hey I suggest at first not using the aperture and shooting wide open because you need as much of light getting in as possible. A good thing to do is use an opaque shower curtain as a ground glass and use that to set focus and then use a big jar cap to uncover and cover the lens. I'm going to give you a link to the article to a guy that used some kind of magnifying glass to do his experiments. I'm also using a new kind of pretreated paper made by a company called nature print paper. It's outstanding because you can now rinse the paper and it retains the image and the white part becomes white as it should. Check this link www.alternativephotography.com/making-cyanotypes-in-camera/
Raychristofer thanks, I’ll read that tonight, I love that site but there’s a lifetime of reading there :-) My focus screen is the clear lid from an old CD case which I ground a bit with some fine wet&dry sandpaper and it works quite well but I’m happy to try other stuff too. The camera is a box with the lens on the front, a sliding inner box for focus and at the back is either the focus screen that attaches, or a negative carrier. No dark slide or anything like that. I thought I’d try the apertures (2” and 1”) to see it I could get a sharper image just using the centre portion of the 4” lens but also to slow the exposure because our Aussie light is usually quite harsh & bright. It’s wintery now so UV is lower than usual but probably still enough to try a cyanotype negative in it - that will be next weekend because it’s raining all this weekend. I’ve never really had a blog or anything like that and don’t share much online, but should give it a try. If I do I’ll let you know how it goes
After watching your video, I dusted off my old Crown Graphic 2-1/4x3-1/4 camera, made some measurements for how big to make the sensitized pieces of paper, and I'm just waiting for the chemistry to arrive! Thanks for this!
That's awesome man!! Love it. Lemme know how it goes. Quality should be massive.check out my latest video also it's a tutorial on how to do traditional cyanotypes in various ways
Cyanotype mixtures are not very sensitive to light, and in my experience I had to use very long exposure times. Using a pinhole instead of a lens would let in even less light I think.
Great video, hello from Baltimore Try rod coating on inkjet photo paper. It makes cleaner photos on a small scale compared to cold press watercolor. Next, adjust your ratios of A and B and test, it's been awhile and we forgot which one it is for the Herschel recipe, but one of the chemicals in a 2 or 3:1 will give higher sensitivity at the expense of darkness. We've been meaning to try in camera cyanos with the new and simple cyanotype formulas from Mike Ware but haven't found the time yet.
LOL thanks for that technical info. Would have been cool to have you on Deck when I was shooting this. That thing about different ratios is very interesting because I always did half-and-half and it never occurred to me to test the ratio differences. I'm going to have to print out your comment so I don't forget to look into it when I have more time. That's the thing about running a TH-cam channel is there so many cool things you don't have the time to do
Salt is easy to learn, but would be tougher as an in camera. Kosher salt, silver nitrate and sodium thiosulphate. Red darkroom safelight (LED Works). Bostick and Sullivan has a kit I believe, Van Dyke Brown is similar. Have you tried paper negatives and caffinol developer? Might be right up your alley. Look into liquid light too.
@@jcmilleker5449 you should start a YT channel called the know everything photography channel lol. Yes I've looked into paper negatives but haven't tried it. I was actually looking into Harman positive paper. Will rodinal work for paper or is the chemistry be of developer different.
Very cool experiment! I like how you stuck to it and figured out work-arounds to make it work. My only question is, how fast is the lens on your camera and would one more f-stops cut your exposure time in half?
Thanks man good to hear from you again. I think the one stop more does help because the rollei is a 3.5 and the Mamiya is at 2.8 and I do notice it works a bit faster.
Hello thank you so much. I don't know if you read my video description but I've started using a pre-treated paper called nature print that is so much better because you can actually rinse the image and it will retain, the advantage of that is now you have the pure white part of the paper and it will be a true cyanotype color. I need to do an updated review of this at some point
@@Raychristofer Very cool...I will have to look into that. I've been thinking about this process for a long time! I have a variety of old cameras to try it with. The rinse off is most likely due to the amount of UV being allowed through the lens, also how long and well the paper was dried before trying. Anyway, thanks for the info! I just followed you on insta!
Very well done, Ray. Exciting to get some lessons, tips and a good back story/education on this kind of thing. I enjoy shooting "slow" and this certainly falls into that realm. And it's oId school-cool!
Thanks UP. Of course the limiting factor is having to leave your camera out for a good while switch to eliminate a lot of photos if you can't tend to it. That's why a lot of folks make homemade Pin hole cameras and put them in trees and stuff
Hello how are you? yes Ive heard of it but never looked into it seriously. I dont know if you saw in my description but I started using a pretreated paper called nature print, its great because I can finally rinse the paper and retain the image and get pure whites. I have a link to my results also. thanks
Cool stuff! I just got a 4x5, might need to give this a shot!
Thanks for stopping through PNG, Ive never tried large format Id like to try a linhoff. if you ever shoot a tutorial holler at me.
Great stuff! I have also been experimenting with a Rolleicord and cyanotype, and I have found that you can get permanent washed images, but they take a lot longer - 2-3 hours for non-backlit image.
i love your passion for these creative processes & im rly grateful that u dedicate so much time & energy to sharing what u have learned. ur video format is rly helpful to follow along w the details but still stay engaged.
I appreciate how much care you put into your videos. Thank you for all of this wonderful information! You are amazing.
Hello Brittany thanks so much, youre getting me choked up now why you do this to me lol.
This is the best video I've seen on this process. Technical, thoughtful and inspirational.
Good video my friend Congratulations form ARGENTINA
I put it into my 4x5 view camera several years ago. Worked great.
I also made paper negative and a few contact prints from the paper negative.
Loads of fun.
Great video.
Thank you for being inventive in the technique. Most people never try Cyanotype photography, but your images are attractive. I've used full 8x10 coated paper and static objects placed under an old picture frame. Well done!
Thanks! I learnt a lot. I also realized by accident that the thinner coating worked better . Thanks for confirming that. Really nice images!
Great video I know I might be a little late but you can actually develop those negatives with 7% vinegar 1/1 with water. That's at least what worked for me so you can use those negatives to actually make a positive!
So, you rinse the negative with the solution and let dry?
Very nice video! You have unusual ideas, love them!
Great video mate helping heaps with my own Cynotypes!
Love your video. Thanks for sharing your experience with this te tecnique
Lovely presentation, well explained and nice to see how this is open to everyone. 👍🏽
Hello Anthony thanks so much, I have recently found a much better way to do this using a pre treated paper called nature print paper, the good thing is when you rinse it the image is retained and the paper becomes truly white making the final image scan and inversion look as it should. the paper can be gotten on amazon, here is a link to my FLickr album using it. flic.kr/s/aHsmPbjPdG
Thank you.
There were people who advised for choosing a frame where the sun is behind the camera, now i see the difference
I really like the way you shared your thoughts on the shots. Great detail. Your cadence is great. Your voice is relaxing. Subscribed!
Hello thanks much Casey, honestly I need to do a follow up to this because I found a pre treated paper called nature print that makes my coating process obsolete as you can rinse it and get pure whites. check out this photo album of the updated images im getting. I think I put info where to get it in the description also.
flic.kr/s/aHsmPbjPdG
Wonderful! I was wondering if cyanotype in camera worked and I got my answer! Love the water tower so much!
Great Video! Rollei made a really nice conversion back for the Rolleiflex and Rolleicord which lets you use cut film in little darkslides. They turn up on Ebay quite often. The advantage is you can load your cyanotype paper beforehand and not have to mess around trying to avoid fogging while loading and unloading 'in the field'. Best wishes from the UK.
I’m using the same camera I already had. Missed the comment on washing so all my earlier efforts failed. Lots of sun later in the day. Thanks for showing this method. Lots of inspiration.
You say you're not an expert... For me you're a master 💙
Ray awesome videos i did this back in 2001 in expiremental photo class. You got it way better. I tried in 4x5 and 10x8 graflex cameras from the teens. Never thought of useing a 220. Im a scout leader for my kids cub scouts im doing a cynatype when we gobto camp grounds with them. Thanks for inspiring-Jay
This video was extremely helpful...thank you for taking the time to do this. You gave good tips, speak clearly and do not have background music. And your neighborhood image is amazing and as you said it does have a mood that's difficult to describe. The trees definitely frame the image and it looks like it was taken in the late 1950's. I also love the low placement of the houses and expanse of sky with the trees. Seriously, I would mat and frame that.
Hello thank you so much I'm glad this was helpful. I actually found a better way to do this using a pre treated paper called nature print, it retains the image after rinsing and gives accurate white and blue. I put links in the description, here's some photos taken with it. Hope this helps
www.flickr.com/gp/aloyandersonphotography/1p4g4w
Try pinhole camera, just build a box with hole and put bigger coated paper. I am in UK so no good sun index at this time. I will try it on summertime. Thanks for video and idea
Amazing research, congratulations. I've been struggling looking for a video like this one of yours... It just came to my mind that in camera cyanotype should be possible and I'm so happy I found your confirmation. Thanks a lot!
these images look almost poetic in their simplistic beauty. and the water tower is right out of a science fiction story, very etherial! just yesterday I bought Jacquard cyanotype purple and am looking forward to experimenting with it. thanks for this great video. your creative curiosity benefits us all!
I searched for this information for a long time (cyanotype & camera) Thank you so much. I am working on Lubitel 166B
Really beautiful video! Thanks for sharing what you've found thru your experiments- this helps heaps!
I like your discussion of uv in a scene. Makes perfect sense, but I don't think it would have occurred to me to seek out subjects that were particularly rich in uv. Good Stuff!
Really enjoyed this video! Keep making content please. Our family loves your creativity.
I'm glad you tried in camera cyanotypes. Great idea.
Ray, thanks for making this. I found it really interesting. Btw, that is one beautiful Rolleicord; it looks like it just left the factory.
Hello Ian thank you yes many of these old cameras are mechanical gems. Once I rested it on a fence and a strong wind blew it to the ground in some grass and gravel my heart stopped, wasn't broken but has a few small scratches.
how did you make the big contact copy (around 13:40, with the bridge)? Do you have a negative that is that big?
Hello how are you? That's a good question, I printed the photo on a clear sheet of plastic but I inverted it as a negative before printing so that it would end up a positive
@@Raychristofer Great idea, I gotta try that :)
I love the water tower! it looks like it's taken from above
Just came to this via search. Instant subscriber. So well done!
Such a shame you seem to have stopped two years ago 😢
Love it! I myself am experimenting with in-camera anthotypes. My best anthotype paper is still far less sensitive than cyanotype paper (requiring multiple-day exposures in a homemade camera for very poor results), BUT it responds well to a wide range of light colors and not just UV. I'm still hopeful I will succeed in getting a good image. Your video was beautifully presented and inspiring. Thank you.
ooo man, i've been thinking of doing the same stuff for years, i have the chemicals i bought 10 years ago, both of them are stored in amber bottles and stored in a cool dark place. i've tested using my negatives and exposed them under direct sunlight, results seems pretty good, signs that my chemicals are still good. i'm gonna try to use your methos using my holga instead. thanks a lot ray and by the way, those are sick photos you got there dude.
This is very cool! Thank you for sharing your journey.
Hello thank you, I actually started using a pre treated paper called nature print, its much better as you can rinse it and the image remains. I put a link in the description.
Enjoyed your video. Nice alternative processing, Love the cyanotype. Waiting to see more.
Mark
Thank you. Good looking out. Your name sounds familiar
This is really terrific. Thanks for posting. I recently got a toyo 4x5 and had not thought about making cyanotypes with it. Now I can't wait to give it try.
Hello thanks so much Aimee. It's an advanced thing so take your time and learn from each print. Let me know how it goes.
Wow, great work , Ray. I love the organic look you got. Sometimes it's the imperfections that create the beauty. You gotta get some palm trees with that process.
Thanks Ted and I agree about the palm trees I actually set up for a set of palm trees one morning outside the job I was at and my client showed up early so I had to shut down the camera only 2 minutes and the image was useless. Hard to find time in a busy work week . I'm gonna work at fine tuning them though.
Never thought of in-camera cyanotypes, thanks for pointing this out :)
Cool! I’m going to try this in my pinhole camera! Thx for the video
awesome thanks, let me know how it goes. dont be surprised though if no pic forms it needs pretty strong UV.
First, I want to thank you a lot!
I hesitated so much before using cyanotype in a camera. I am not really interrested in its inital use that is objects scanning. And the only photography's results I saw were... disapointing. But now you gave some sort of motivation to keep on the cyanotype photography!
Hello how are you? Have we spoken before? Yes you're welcome and definitely let me know what your results are like. What camera will you be using?
@@Raychristofer Hello, no and it is your first video I watched.
I started analogic photography when I found two old cameras in my house (Canon AE-1 program, and Revue 400L). But argentic photography is a long process, and I prefer non-standard ones.
So I studied pinhole cameras to learn more about light, optic, etc.
Now I feel ready to make a camera with a lens. I plan the aperture to be very large in order to reduce the shutter-speed while using cyanotype.
I hesitated for monthes because of the possible results but your experiments are very convicting.
My first results should come later.
Please forgive my english grammar :)
@@clement010200 your English is spectacular. Don't apologize. Respect
@@Raychristofer Hello, this is me, one year later. Today, I finally achieved making a decent cyanotype positive picture, without any use of computer.
I used transparent paper, gelatin, and more to take the picture, make a negative then transfer it into a positive picture.
I researched on it for about 6 months in order to get the best quality possible.
Thank you for getting me into it!
If you want to know more, it would be a pleasure to discuss about this process
Have a good day !
@@clement010200 现在还有进展吗
Very cool. Thanks for sharing. I think I'll give this a go in my 4x5.
I've been thinking about trying 4 x 5 but I just don't feel like investing in another scanner on top of the camera LOL
@@Raychristofer you can split scan them and stitch together in ps but yeah, there's always money to be spent.
@@adamm4926 hey with a name like that how come you don't have videos on the subject
This such a great video. Thanks for making and sharing it. The whole idea is so interesting and creative, I love it. Thanks so much mate.
Beautiful photos and awesome experimentation. Thanks for sharing your process!
Hello Alice thanks for stopping by and taking the time to leave a comment. You and my mother have the same name by the way
You seem so passionate about photography and I can tell how much fun you had doing these experiments.
"There's silhouettes in your area that I don't get in my area." great job! Thanks! Good production.
Apple thanks man I really appreciate that. I'm always trying to think out the box lol
Nice work. I am just getting back into photography this last year. Cyanotype is just up my alley for budget print. Can't wait to see what results I get. Thanks again
Awesome man thank you. To be honest cyanotype in camera is quite difficult but give it a try. Actually I recommend also shooting dark room paper in camera that's a fun way to challenge yourself and I've been getting some good results with that as well I'm working on a video review of how to do it but it's taking weeks to put together
@@Raychristofer it surely on my photography bucket list. I am in central Florida and my materials have been hostage in TN for three days. I missed the dead line for an IG contest. But that's ok I waited 15 years I can do few more days. Keep up the great work.
@@LuisMuniz2 I love central florida because I skateboard alot and there's at least some hills there to slalom down.
Thank you for publishing these results of your investigations. They are very helpful for me whilst considering the same issue. Have you ever considered trying to use bigger format glass dry plates with gelatin cyanotype coating? The gelatin assures an even coating and protects the material from floating away and the glass doesn't soak the coating, which should result in a more efficient penetration of UV light into the layer. As the "normal" coating of glass or tin dry plates with UV and blue light sensitive emulsion works quite fine, I think that Cyanotype should not make a huge difference.
Cool! I love that water tower photo. It looks like something out of war of the worlds.
I wonder if this would work with a pinhole camera. Since there is no lens in a pinhole camera maybe the uv rays would get through better.
How about one of those simple box cameras that have a bulb mode that has a single lens?
Fantastic video, thank you! I'm really excited to start playing with cyanotypes. I love making my own cameras, and this technique means size is almost no object... :)
Awesome that's what I want to hear definitely share your social media I'd like to see what you're doing. Also look maybe two months ago I posted a tutorial how to do traditional cyanotype as well
@@Raychristofer Great, I'll check that out! If I get any half decent results I'll pop them on my Flickr (and maybe IG) , feel free to follow :)
www.flickr.com/photos/simontomlinson
IG @turtletwist
good results and glad you went ahead to try it despite not finding many people doing it in camera.now i know it can be done.
Hey analog thanks for checking this out I appreciate that. recently I started using a pretreated paper called nature print paper and what is beautiful about it is I can actually wash the paper and the print remains. What is important with that is I can get the paper back two white instead of yellow and when it's scanned and inverted the colors are more pure and I get much more fine detail. I'm going to show you an album with the new method. flic.kr/s/aHsmPbjPdG
@@Raychristofer this is so cool and i think they look good in amber. Will check out nature print products!
Thanks for sharing! After watching the full video i thought if it is possiple to use a pinhole camera instead a MF ?
Hello how are you? I guarantee you would get absolutely no image on the pin hole. I actually tried it on a large format camera and the image did not burn in properly at all it was so faint because large format lenses have smaller apertures and the lenses are further from the film plane.
Ray you do such a wonderful job explaining these techniques. I need more videos. I am so glad that I found and subscribed to you. God bless you and keep up the great work. I look forward to the next video.
Hello thank you so much, yes I pull my hair out when I watch tutorials that aren't clear so I try to be easy to understand. Definitely check out my latest video it's a full cyanotypes tutorial on doing it with paper, fabric and photographs. Thanks for your support
@@Raychristofer I Have already watched all your videos that I have interest in. That is why I need more. Ray you have the talent, the voice and the patience for this. I cannot wait until more people catch on. You will be a great success and I will be here watching it happen. 😊❤🥰
@@NeitherYouNorIAreRight hey thanks so much. Some of these videos take as much as 3 weeks to put together so I'm not able to upload is often but thanks for your support 😊
Thank you so much for this video ! I wanted to do that a few weeks ago but didn't try because I didn't want to get negtive images, but you motivated me ! Keep on going, you gained a subscriber :)
Great video, so you don't recommend rinsing the negative with water to fix?
Great video. I love your grainy, haunting images. As you say - the antithesis of “Digital Perfection”
I’ve been looking to try some of these alternative processes in camera, by coating strips of paper. A 120 roll is about 1m (3.3ft), so you can get a lot of images from a roll of art paper (such as Awagami papers).
I’ve also been thinking of using old Polaroid film packs. I have a mamiya RB67 and a Polaroid back,so I might well try this
Have you considered applying a wash of coffee to your prints? Fix with white vinegar or sodium carbonate, then soak in coffee and rinse in vinegar again
Thank you for reminding me about this! I've tried it in the past and had a little trouble with exposure times. I am going to try it again.
Hello Connie thanks for checking this out. Long as you shoot in bright Sun you will be good.
Very relevant experiment, I believe there is still room for innovation here. A photo paper
/solvent for large format with a dead simple process would be next generation. We need to make it more light sensitive first.
Wow I love this! Gonna try it in my 4x5 camera when my chemicals arrive in the mail today :) thanks for making this video, I’m looking forward to watching more of your videos.
.LOL thanks so much yelling that's funny you said that because a subscriber gifted me a 4 x 5 last week it's called in Newton New view. I'm in a field right now doing a in-camera of that same windmill for my first test. One thing I have to say is I instead using the chemicals to coat my paper I started buying a pretreated paper called nature print.what is incredible about it is the image remains on the paper even after yourinse it so the color is romaine accurately white and blue instead of yellow. look at the link to my Instagram I have some sample images shot using that paper.
instagram.com/p/CCHcyfCn_3w/?igshid=1gx2k29hj1j86
Thanks Ray you are a creative and smart dude!!!
Hello thanks for checking this out it's one of my longest videos. there's a lot more things I would like to try I just don't have the time or the equipment 😞
This is a great tutorial! i'm gonna try it on my Lubitel which is only gathering dust. Films are expensive these days.
Awesome thank you. Look into the pre-treated paper I have in the description it's great and you can rinse it, much better images
@@Raychristofer I will, thank you. I hope the chemicals are available here in the Philippines. It's almost summer, so lots of sun for me. =)
Great video, been experimenting with large format without much success, some great tips here, I will try again, thanks
Hello Ray. I’m a little late to the party on your video here and I don’t normally comment on videos. However, I feel compelled to write to let you know how inspirational your video was! You’ve saved me a lot of time and hassle. But above all, you’ve motivated me to try this!
Congratulations on your various trials to get the desired results. I also liked the way you gave credit to those photographers, before you, who’ve developed this technique and from whom you’ve derived the ideas to use in your own work. Well done indeed!! 👍⭐️⭐️⭐️
I'm certainle interested. Thank you for the inspiration.
I did a video on this years ago, but you certainly did so much better with explaining!
Hello thank you. Everyone has their unique point or view though. I want to see your video though I will check.
@@Raychristofer Don't expect much!
i watched your videos lots of times and i tried with my flexaret, thank you so much !
Hello thank you so much, please let me see some of your results and I don't know if you saw the notes in the video but I'm getting much better results with a pre-treated paper called nature print because it allows me to rinse
Great video man! I really enjoyed seeing what others are doing with in camera cyanotypes. Keep it up.
Hello thank you. I hand spooled a roll of nature print onto a 120 roll so I'll be trying my Mamiya m645 ,having 2.8 instead of 3.5 should help with a darker negative print
I've got two medium format photos. I'm gonna have to try this right now!
Awesome! Thank you for the tips. I have had their Cyanotype kit sitting on my shelf for a coupke of months and you inspired me to mix it up and use it. I have an old 6x9 folding camera that I will have to try it with.
Hello and thanks , you're doing better than me with that larger format camera. Let me guess it's either a Russian Moskva or a Zeiss ikon
@@Raychristofer it is a folding Universal Roamer II. They are old but inexpensive.
Hi Ray appreciate ur experiments! But I am a bit lost at 14:11 why its dissapeared like that? How to avoid that? Thank you🏄
Love this, Ray! Was about to test some 4x5 holders using cyanotype paper, but was going to just test the darkside light trap (keeping the shutter closed) - now I'm going to run those tests as exposures, both to test this technique and see if there are any leaks :)
Hello Dan that's awesome man. I'm actually testing some pretreated cyanotype paper that was sent to me by a company called nature print paper and it is excellent for in camera because the image is actually retained after you rinse it and the paper becomes white again in the unexposed areas instead of staying yellow. if you'd like to see some preliminary tests check out my Instagram the link is in my homepage, I'm glad I was able to help
@@Raychristofer Raychristofer Just saw those! I'm using pretreated sheets of Sunprint paper (had a pack of it I was using with my neice and nephew a few months ago), though I also have the Jaquard bottles ready to go. I'll do some tests on these exposures and see how well this brand of paper holds onto the image after rinsing... 🙌🏼
Amazing Ray! I just got the idea about to take the photos this way and looking for someone with the same idea. Thank you for this. So glad I can see someone like you. Pure inspiration. I will try with my 100 type camera. Can't wait. Regards from Czech Republic
Oh teacher, but how did you do to put the paper inside of your camera?
It's a normal paper?
I have a Kodak Brownie and I would like to try it without using a film cause here in Mexico they don't exist anymore and the few films are very expensive and I would to take pictures like you did this what I have been trying to find , about how to take photos without a film
I would really thank to you
Fascinating. And beautiful. I tried creating cyanotypes using an enlarger, but as you say, insufficient UV light doesn’t yield results.
Awesome! What was your aperture? Thank you!
Thanks Xavier. I always shoot wide open to get as much light in as possible.
Hi Ray,
This is a wonderful video and a highly interesting idea and process. I like to experiment myself and I'll try it out soon.
Hello thank you, let me know how it goes with your tests. You'll find some scenes are more suited for it than
Wonderful work
Thanks for the visit
Hey! Thanks for this amazing video!
I wonder if you ever considered making a double-negative cyanotype to maintain the whole process analog.
Can't wait to see your new stuff!
I've been wanting to try this for a long time with an old film camera. I know a lot more now and am going to do it soon. Thanks!
Most of the lenses have some anti uv coating and other coating for flare etc., so maybe that's why you're need so much sun light... Very good video by the way ;)
Thank you GB, yes I agree and even when I put a glass plate on top of the traditional cyanotypes to hold the flowers flat you can clearly see the paper that is not behind the glass gets darker so I can imagine multiple lens elements doing that as well. I'm curious if I tried a very old uncoated 3 element lens how it would behave
Thank you for your very interesting tutorial.
Ohhh... lovely video, great content, great presentation. I've been playing with pinhole cameras. I know exactly what you mean about mood in the pics you get from 'low-fi' imaging techniques. This is a step or two lower-fi than pinhole... I've got an ancient Rolleicord... I'm going to try it. (I briefly thought about using this technique with a pinhole, then realised the exposure time would be measured in years...)
Hello thank you, I really want to try pinhole I actually made one of my micro 4/3 lens cap into a pinhole but the image is soft because I realized the lens cap is too far from the sensor. They do make recessed pinhole lens caps but they're about $80? What the neck lol. When you make your PIN hole cameras how do you find the optimal distance from the film
@@Raychristofer I went straight in large with pinhole - got an ONDU 6x17.Thinking about distance from film, thought it would be simple but of course it isn't. There are optimal pinhole sizes (too big, blurred; too small, diffraction) and distances (too close, small; too far, dim). There's a calculator here that lets you pick your focal length and pinhole size. it works out the rest: www.mrpinhole.com/calcpinh.php
Great video, I was looking for a way to play around with my old 4x5 Crown Graphic. Thank you
Awesome, it's a great was to still use and breath life into those older manual cameras without burning through film. Glad it was helpful. Plz let me see your results, I've never been able to try large format.
@@Raychristofer Will do.....I wonder if there is a way to coat transparent material instead of paper ? This way a Cyanotype negative can be made. In turn making a Cyanotype print from that negative keeping the whole process analog.
@@tonytfuntek3262 that's a very good observation. I have some plastic sheets very thin that I use to print negatives on from my inkjet printer and I use that to reproduce photos on cyano. The last time I tried to coat the cyano material on the sheet it dripped off and wouldn't stay coated. In the old days they would add gelatin to photographic material to keep it thick that's where the term silver gelatin print comes from. I wonder if adding gelatin to the cyqno liquid could do the same thing.
@@Raychristofer WOW.....you nailed it !!! I just watched a youtube video from Joseph J. McAllister and he printed a Cyanotype on glass.....his secret ingredient....gelatin. He didn't go into the fine detail on how, but it sounds like you're on the correct path.
@@tonytfuntek3262 awesome my man, I watched some Eastman Kodak videos on the history of photography. Actually the balls in your court now to continue where I left off
Great stuff, thanks!
hello thanks so much. At some point I plan to do a traditional cyanotype tutorial as well as how to do it on fabric so stay tuned in the coming weeks or months
Awesome! I'm gonna try it now too! Thanks for the information!!!
this so good. I built a box camera using a large magnifying glass as a lens. I use it with black & white darkroom paper for a negative and have been wondering if it would work with cyanotype. thanks for the video
Hello Peter man that sound slick man I would love to see a video about that. it takes a certain kind of person to undertake making his own camera. Where can I see your work
Raychristofer ha! it may sound slick but it’s made from foamcore and gaffers tape :-) I’ve not really had success with it yet because the aperture is so large and I have no shutter. Yesterday I did make some aperture inserts but haven’t tried them yet. I was thinking cyanotype because the long exposure times would be easier to control. It’s a fun experiment so far.
@@peter-robinson hey I suggest at first not using the aperture and shooting wide open because you need as much of light getting in as possible. A good thing to do is use an opaque shower curtain as a ground glass and use that to set focus and then use a big jar cap to uncover and cover the lens. I'm going to give you a link to the article to a guy that used some kind of magnifying glass to do his experiments. I'm also using a new kind of pretreated paper made by a company called nature print paper. It's outstanding because you can now rinse the paper and it retains the image and the white part becomes white as it should. Check this link
www.alternativephotography.com/making-cyanotypes-in-camera/
Raychristofer thanks, I’ll read that tonight, I love that site but there’s a lifetime of reading there :-) My focus screen is the clear lid from an old CD case which I ground a bit with some fine wet&dry sandpaper and it works quite well but I’m happy to try other stuff too. The camera is a box with the lens on the front, a sliding inner box for focus and at the back is either the focus screen that attaches, or a negative carrier. No dark slide or anything like that. I thought I’d try the apertures (2” and 1”) to see it I could get a sharper image just using the centre portion of the 4” lens but also to slow the exposure because our Aussie light is usually quite harsh & bright. It’s wintery now so UV is lower than usual but probably still enough to try a cyanotype negative in it - that will be next weekend because it’s raining all this weekend. I’ve never really had a blog or anything like that and don’t share much online, but should give it a try. If I do I’ll let you know how it goes
Raychristofer I looked up the Nature Print paper and I can get a 40 sheet pack for $114 plus $90 delivery. I’ll keep looking :-)
I am excited because i have my grandmother camera so this is exciting
After watching your video, I dusted off my old Crown Graphic 2-1/4x3-1/4 camera,
made some measurements for how big to make the sensitized pieces of paper,
and I'm just waiting for the chemistry to arrive! Thanks for this!
That's awesome man!! Love it. Lemme know how it goes. Quality should be massive.check out my latest video also it's a tutorial on how to do traditional cyanotypes in various ways
i know this may be an obvious question but would it be possible to use this in a pinhole camera, would there be any major drawbacks?
Cyanotype mixtures are not very sensitive to light, and in my experience I had to use very long exposure times. Using a pinhole instead of a lens would let in even less light I think.
This was very interesting! Thanks for sharing this technique.
Great video, hello from Baltimore Try rod coating on inkjet photo paper. It makes cleaner photos on a small scale compared to cold press watercolor. Next, adjust your ratios of A and B and test, it's been awhile and we forgot which one it is for the Herschel recipe, but one of the chemicals in a 2 or 3:1 will give higher sensitivity at the expense of darkness.
We've been meaning to try in camera cyanos with the new and simple cyanotype formulas from Mike Ware but haven't found the time yet.
LOL thanks for that technical info. Would have been cool to have you on Deck when I was shooting this. That thing about different ratios is very interesting because I always did half-and-half and it never occurred to me to test the ratio differences. I'm going to have to print out your comment so I don't forget to look into it when I have more time. That's the thing about running a TH-cam channel is there so many cool things you don't have the time to do
Keep up the good work and be sure to post your results!
@@jcmilleker5449 I want to try this with salt paper process but I get a headache doing the research of how to go about it.
Salt is easy to learn, but would be tougher as an in camera. Kosher salt, silver nitrate and sodium thiosulphate. Red darkroom safelight (LED Works). Bostick and Sullivan has a kit I believe, Van Dyke Brown is similar.
Have you tried paper negatives and caffinol developer? Might be right up your alley. Look into liquid light too.
@@jcmilleker5449 you should start a YT channel called the know everything photography channel lol. Yes I've looked into paper negatives but haven't tried it. I was actually looking into Harman positive paper. Will rodinal work for paper or is the chemistry be of developer different.
Very cool experiment! I like how you stuck to it and figured out work-arounds to make it work. My only question is, how fast is the lens on your camera and would one more f-stops cut your exposure time in half?
Thanks man good to hear from you again. I think the one stop more does help because the rollei is a 3.5 and the Mamiya is at 2.8 and I do notice it works a bit faster.
Awesome! I've been wanting to try this. Thank you for this vid!
Hello thank you so much. I don't know if you read my video description but I've started using a pre-treated paper called nature print that is so much better because you can actually rinse the image and it will retain, the advantage of that is now you have the pure white part of the paper and it will be a true cyanotype color. I need to do an updated review of this at some point
@@Raychristofer Very cool...I will have to look into that. I've been thinking about this process for a long time! I have a variety of old cameras to try it with.
The rinse off is most likely due to the amount of UV being allowed through the lens, also how long and well the paper was dried before trying.
Anyway, thanks for the info! I just followed you on insta!
This is awesome, really appreciate the time you put into this. Super cool looking results, can’t wait to try
The Water Tower is a great shot.
Thank you! I loved this lesson
Thanks Dustin. You're one of the few guys who commented on this. Glad it was helpful.
Very well done, Ray. Exciting to get some lessons, tips and a good back story/education on this kind of thing. I enjoy shooting "slow" and this certainly falls into that realm. And it's oId school-cool!
Thanks UP. Of course the limiting factor is having to leave your camera out for a good while switch to eliminate a lot of photos if you can't tend to it. That's why a lot of folks make homemade Pin hole cameras and put them in trees and stuff
Have you looked at Mike Ware's new cyanotype process? It's a little more fiddly to prepare, but up to three stops more sensitive.
Hello how are you? yes Ive heard of it but never looked into it seriously. I dont know if you saw in my description but I started using a pretreated paper called nature print, its great because I can finally rinse the paper and retain the image and get pure whites. I have a link to my results also. thanks