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Rebuilding The Anchor Locker and Bulkhead on Antidote - E017
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2023
- After cutting out the rotten bulkhead we pick up in this video refining the bulkhead design and building a super strong floor to elevate the new anchor locker slightly and allow all of the water to drain properly.
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Do you think we should engineer this forward bulkhead to be a water-tight crash compartment?
No.
You do not need a crash bulkhead until you run into a long or container in the night.
The way that you have it currently constructed, it would not be difficult to make it into a crash bulkhead. I would think that by the time you finish with the install with tabbing on both sides, the bulkhead will have more than enough strength. At that point, it comes to the strength of a cover for the opening. Your opening is relatively small so the loads on it would not be bad. If I wanted to make it into a crash bulkhead, I would fabricate a cover that is an inch or so larger all around that is mounted to forward side of the bulkhead. It would only need to have a way to hold it into place with the water pressure from a flooding event providing clamping force. Because the opening in not circular, you would be able to turn it sideways and pass it through the opening and then pull it back into place.
I have a friend who had a 65' steel boat with a water-tight door that swung into the forward cabin and looks like it is from a destroyer. He told me that the cabin in front of that door was the cabin for his two teenage sons and they never closed it for fear of them being trapped inside. I explained to him that leaving the door open would not matter because any large volume of water would push the door closed and seal it even without the dogs being drawn tight.
He was horrified by that thought but I told him that they would still have no problem getting out of the flooded cabin which he doubted seriously explaining that the pressure against the door would make it completely impossible to to open. I said, have they ever climbed out of the overhead hatch? D'oh!
These crash bulkheads are not designed to keep the water out of the boat. They are designed to only allow the portion of the boat that is below the waterline in that space to fill with water. Provided that you're opening, which is more than likely well above the waterline, the anchor rode space is already a crash bulkhead and adding a cover would just allow the boat to setting a bit deeper in the bow before the water was able to move farther back into the boat.
Yes. Even add a water tight door to it.
Kevlar ?
Yes Kevlar?
A water-tight crash bulkhead with lower your insurance cost? Magnificent episode, you certainly go the extra mile on all your work.
Yeah, that is a possibility. I should look into that … 🤔. Thanks for the feedback. It is appreciated. 🙏👍🙌
Learning a lot from watching this series, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
//fan from Sweden
Thank you! 🙏 It means a lot to me to hear this kind of feedback from places far beyond my horizon.
We are all learning together on this project! Thanks for staying tuned in!! 👍👍
You got it all ripped up. Now is the time. Secondly, you might just be a single handed sailor. Can you imagine the chaos of trying to deal with a serious breach, pumps, notifications, and what not? You won't regret it.
Yeah, that’s kind of what I’m thinking. … thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍🙌
Very important to epoxy seal edges all of the ply usually takes two coats.
Yes! I went around the edges with unthickened epoxy several times until it stopped soaking in and then the parts were set in a bed of thick epoxy around the edges so I’m hoping to eliminate a path for water along the edges! 👍 I’m also plugging any drilled holes with epoxy over-bores and staying away from screws. 🙌
Another amazing job. Your fiberglass work is top notch and a true joy to watch. Thank you for filling my refit fix since Aladino and Maia are off in Europe this week. Cheers!
Thank you! 🙏👍🙌 I appreciate that. Cheers!
You're very clever! Starting to feel a tad inadequate watching these ;)
Haha. I hope not!!! I appreciate the generous assessment but I make a LOT of mistakes so stick around and I’ll have plenty to share 🤪
John great videos, i love your attention to detail. Matt at Duracell, Mads on sail life and Ross with life on the hulls. All of you go the extra mile with quality finishes. Well done.
Thank you! 🙏 I appreciate the comparison. I love those channels! 👍🙌
Uhh, simple really for the water tight crash bulkhead. The off cut for the access hatch can be used. Just add a half inch over lap frame to it with some weather strip of some kind. But a bolt through the middle. From the chain locker side get in into the cut out and then fabricate an x frame from 2by 2" to hold it to the bulk head with a wing nut. If water ingresses the pressure will push against the hatch and seal it. That,s the way Wharram did it. Simple and very functional.
Thanks for the idea. That’s sort of what I was thinking. I will definitely have it close from the inside and try to keep the “hold on place” mechanism pretty simple.
I’ll probably stow it up forward in a bracket or cradle so it’s up and out of the way but can drop into place easily.
🙌👍
@@livingforsail uhh , have a look at what the experimental aircraft guys do to panels, access hatches ect to stiffen that area. They take or make round pieces of foam cut down the middle and glue and tab them onto the flat surface. Just have a look at the back side of your car hood or trunk to imagine what I mean. You could make the crash bulkhead and access panel super stiff and even if it,s not space station or submarine level secure,, if it,s strong it will slow down ingress and your pumps can keep up.
@@russellesimonetta9071 I can imagine what you mean. That's a great way to up the stiffness without adding much weight. Thanks!!
Thanks for the video 👍👍😁
It was my pleasure. 🙏👍🙌
Your channel dovetails quite nicely to the Duracell Project that I also watch. I (although not being a sailor or nautical engineer in any fashion) would always opt for a sealed compartment at any possible crash site. Of course, I would put humongous sails on a battleship just to let me "sail" safely. All the best to your efforts---this episode was informative as well as a satisfying view.
Hi. Thanks for the feedback! 🙏. I am leaning towards the idea to make the bulkhead tight. It does present some additional design challenges… more on that coming up. 👍🙌
Damn. Came here after a mention in Duracell. Your explanations, graphics and calmness made me instantly hit subscribe. Great work :)
Ps. That foam piece in the bottom is nice, but slightly overengineerd I'd say, since it's not structural in any way. Why not make the upper layer, stick it in, drill a hole in it and fill it with an epoxy foam (or PU-foam even). Glass over it and you're done with a lot less steps.
Hi and thanks for the feedback. 🙏.
I agree that it’s over engineered! 😂. My thinking was that I wanted to get some practice with the vacuum bag (new skill to me) and also if the grate ever gets out of place I wanted the floor to handle the heavy chain. 👍🙌
In the past 2 years since I bought my first boat I've watched hundreds of TH-cam videos about repairing wood, aluminum and fiberglass boats and this is the first time I've seen the "epoxy plug" thingie...YES! Yes yes yes!
Yeah, it’s the only way I like to keep the cores dry! Thanks for watching! 🙏👍🙌
Brilliant!
Thank you! 👍🙏
Never noticed water in the binge from anchoring, cause there’s so little of it. There’s should always be some water in the bilge if you have the typical stuffing box. The only water that causes problems, other than enough to sink you, is water from a dehumidifier because it will soon stink.
I’ll be replacing the stuffing box also. I’m trying to get the bilge as dry as possible 👍🙌
Thanks for the feedback 🙏
It's very common to get a lot of sludge/weed in the anchor locker. (even after washing off the chain) I'm imagining that you're going to be in the locker often cleaning/ clearing your drain hole, not to mention the pump filter...Also, you might want to add a couple of eye bolts to attach the bitter end of your chain (with line, so as to be able to cut free in an emergency)
Yeah, that’s why I went with the large 1.25” hose… we will see how it does. I agree with the concerns. The pump is designed to tolerate debris up to about 1/4” so that’s how big I’ll set the drain holes in the floor.
I can’t image it will be worse than the original design 😳😂
Thanks for the feedback!
🙏👍🙌
I was lucky enough to have the chain pile up in the locker so it could take no more, we found out too late and the winch overloaded and the breaker popped. We had hardly deck and no bow acces so the only way out was dropping the anchor back. No fun with wind and a busy anchorage 😉 I understand your safety concern but good acces to your ground tackle is worth thinking about. Grtz from holland
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I agree. If I go the route of a water tight (or close to it) bulkhead, I will need an access hatch or door to allow me to access the chain. Good catch!
🙏👍🙌
If another boat - or you or someone else crashes into your wet, up front - you can get bridge damage. But I have seen all your pages. I myself have a Vindo sailboat. 32 Feat
Thank for the feedback! All the best with your Vindo 32 🙏🙌👍
Nice work! 🤙
Thank you. 🙏👍🙌
another great one. good stuff jon!
Thanks Josh! 🙏👍🙌
Your precision is next level. I think you missed your calling as a couture designer. Just saying. xoxo
Haha. Thanks Elissa! 🙏👍🙌
Love your creative, detailed, high quality solutions. Like The Duracell Project and Sailing Magic Carpet, my two other favorite channels doing refits, you set the bar for anyone considering a plastic boat restoration.
Hi. Thank you for your feedback. I’m humbled by the comparison. I’m a big fan of those channels also. 👍🙏
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👋👋👋
Great job!
Thank you Peter! 🙏👍🙌
I'm thinking of using G10 rods to make epoxy plugs for holes. I've had problems with voids and air bubbles when I try to fill the holes with epoxy. I'll buy G10 rods in various common diameters. For a 1/4" bolt or machine screw, a 3/8" G10 should be large enough. No voids and I can drill, tap or screw directly into the G10. It should save me a bunch of time and a foot long 3/8" rod is just $9.00. If you want to get really fancy you can get G10 tubes instead. It's a bit pricier but then there's no chance of missing the G10 when you drill the hole. A 1/4" ID tube works out to about $1.50 per 1" deep hole. One place has it for $.90 per hole.
That’s a good thought. I’ve considered using the tubes but like you said the prices can get a bit $$$. I like your idea. I might just have to steal that one 🙏👍🙌
Excellent presentation. Now subscribed. I own a 30 foot Condor trimaran. I am seriously thinking of how to put a much deeper anchor locker. Would love to deploy my anchor off of the bow with a windlass of some design. Will require many changes at the bow with electrical, bow sprit, furlers, and anchoring apparatus. Watching how you think, plan, execute, and install is valuable to guys short on these skill sets. Thank you Sir
Hi. Welcome aboard! Good luck with the modifications on the trimaran! Cheers! 🙏👍🙌
What did I miss, Jon? Why not just make your foam wedge a bit taller to mate up with a thinner layer of glass? What do 15 layers accomplish that 7 wouldn’t? Another great episode, of course, they all are.
Thanks Torsten. 🙏. Haha. I’m sure that I could have gotten away with less. I did want the floor here to be pretty stout in case the grate gets dislodged and the chain is sitting on it. It’s a pretty small area so overbuilding doesn’t really come with any weight/cost penalty. Also, it looks cool 👍🙌
@@livingforsail “Pretty stout” it will be for sure😊. One more thing, please make or buy yourself a few push sticks for your table saw. I’m worried about all the videos you won’t be making when it takes off a finger or two.
Mechanical aptitude is something you'r born with, look's like you lucked out!!!!!!
Haha. Thank you! 🙏 Playing with a lot of Lego probably didn’t hurt either… 🤷♂️🙌
I am in the process of rebuilding my KK38 sailboat . I enjoy watching your videos. They are very detailed and informative. I’ve put to use a lot of your glassing techniques on the repair of my boat . You do things right . Maybe a little overkill, not a bad thing
Definitely a little overkill ! Haha. Thanks for watching! All the best with your refit! 🙏👍🙌
I was under the impression that plywood was, itself, stronger because EACH ply is oriented perpendicular to the adjacent one. Is doing it for additional pieces of plywood added on to it making any difference? I am thoroughly enjoying your "thoroughness" in your construction! I have no idea how long it takes you to make the CAD drawings for your explanation diagrams, but it sure makes it easy to visualize! This may be a long renovation! Or are you purposely timing it to finish when your wife finishes law school in 3 years?! 😉
Plywood usually has an odd number of plies (and they can sometimes be of different thicknesses between adjacent plies). Stacking the sheets at 90 degrees gives you the best overall directional stiffness for the finished panel. It’s probably minor but it’s how I was thought to layup ply panels years ago. 🤷♂️
The video making (including the CAD work) adds a significant amount of time to the refit but we are having fun, right?! 👍
So much better than Netflix. Thanks for making these video's!
Haha! Thank you!! 🙏👍🙌 very kind.
Your attention to detail and complex solution to problems is mighty impressive. I would have just filled the bottom of the bilge with thickened epoxy or vinyl and glassed over it. Your solution is far more complex but prettier that's for sure
… “there has to be a harder way?!” 😂👍
Can't wait for the maiden voyage in 2124
Buy your tickets now before they sell out. Link in description 😉
My wife just walked in while you were explaining the foam fill wedge and tapers and said "He must be an engineer. He thinks the problems through." Beautiful job on the locker.
With the square pipe threads, do not do what Forespar says in their directions and use Teflon tape to seal the square threads. I installed four Marelon flanged seacocks with their buttress thread and every one of them leaked. The Teflon does not have enough filling property to seal up the thread. Given that it was in the water, stopping the leak was a problem. I ended up unthreading the seacocks until there was only one thread still engaged and then brushing on paste pipe dope. a bunch of water was leaking bast the one thread but the dope sticks to wet surfaces. I then tightened the valves back down onto their flange and no more leaks.
Thank you! (To you and your wife) 🙏
That sounds like a stressful situation with the leaking thru hulls! I’ll take that under advisement!
Thanks as always!
👍🙌
Amazing job! Did you ever concider making the bulkhead solid and install the pump direcly on the bottom of the anchor box with a perforated plate as a floor over the pump? To reduce weight and compelxity. Keep up the excellent work!
Thanks! 🙏
That was my original thought. I liked that this way the chain is lower in the locker and I can service the pump remotely. The locker is really deep and hard to reach once it’s all back together… we’ll see how it goes 🤞
@@livingforsail Got it! Makes sense! 👍
Hi, just come across your channel and I really enjoy watching people restore yachts/boats , keep up the good work, really enjoyed it so far , Cliff from Logan City Queensland Australia 🇦🇺🧑🏾🦽
Hello. Thanks for watching! 🙏 It’s really great to see people tuning in from around the globe. Cheers! 👍🙌
For connecting the hose-barb, use an o-ring for added leak protection
Yeah, I might try to see if I can pick up something at our local “if we don’t have it, you don’t need it” hardware store… 👍
I like the idea of the crash bulkhead. I was thinking of doing the same type of thing on my Corbin 39. I wonder if adding a ball valve before the hose barb would be a good idea in case the anchor compartment became flooded. But would it close with all the sand and debris?
Scott
Sailing Vessel Reimagined
I’ve considered adding a compatible ball valve to the bulkhead before the hose barb. If I make the bulkhead water tight, it would be needed in case of a breach.
I plan to flush the compartment periodically to keep stuff from building up.
I think we can keep it working but we will have to wait and see!
Thanks for the input Scott. 🙏👍🙌
This video answered my concerns from the prior video. Very impressive planning!
All good! Thank you! 🙏👍🙌
your videos are interesting and informative... and you are developing the patience of Alidino (Magic Carpet) and the technical fiberglassing abilities of Matt (Duracell).. good on ya!!!!!!.. well done!
Thank you sir! I’m flattered by the comparison 🙏👍🙌
A joy to watch, though seeing viener calipers in 1000s on inch makes does my head in. I am from the rest of the world (specifically NZ)
Thank you. 🙏. It’s funny, I studied in Canada and learned everything in Metric but for some reason I’ve just always used inches/feet for construction projects… 🤷♂️. Around here it’s more common I guess.
I had an exotherm once on a very thick layup of pre-preg e-glass. We were laying up a 2 inch thick panel. To minimize the excess resin, we first did a pre-layup of 10 plies of glass with a layer of porous teflon, and 5 plies of bleeder cloth to absorb resin. This was then heated under pressure to low temperature to get the resin to flow into the bleeder fabric. Success! The bleeder fabric was completely saturated. Now we took the 10 ply stacks and combined them to make the finished laminate, and put them in a heated press to complete the cure. Disaster. There was still too much resin. It flowed out of the pile, and began to smoke. We had to open the roll up doors and pull out the big fans to vent the shop. After cleaning up the mess, we redid the entire process, but used 10 plies of bleeder for the reduction step. We also put a hold on the cure temp with a stop at 250F to stabilize before going to the 350F final cure temperature. Good memories. I got a lot of @#!% over that one.
Wow. That sounds crazy! Thanks for the story!! Thankfully I haven’t let any smoke out of my parts just yet… 10 layers of 1708 is the most I’ve tried so far…
@livingforsail Yes, it was a long time ago, and in a different life almost, it seems. The company I worked for trained FAA inspectors in composites repair techniques. The smoke caused cancelation of class for the day. One of the inspectors later offered me $100 to do it again, LOL. That laminate was around 60 plies total. Lesson learned. The only fortunate thing was that it was an aircraft-grade fire-retardant resin, or else it would have caught fire, for sure.
NASA would be very proud.
😂 Ha. They’d never hire me… Canadians are too much of a security risk apparently…
Think again!
" The Canadians Who Got America to the Moon
On April, 9 1959**, the same day the world met the Mercury astronauts, the Canadians joined the Space Task Group at the Langley Research Center in Hampton, Virginia. They didn’t all know each other; many met for the first time while getting fingerprinted to go to NASA.
The initial idea was to keep the Canadians together as their own group. This was in part on account of the US-Canadian contract; they were technically on a six-month assignment. Keeping them together would make it easier for them to return to Canada when Avro figured out its future in the post-Arrow landscape. But Avro never recovered, and the Canadian government’s loan of engineers became permanent as the Canadians spread throughout NASA and its main contractors when NASA took on the challenge of landing men on the Moon.@@livingforsail "
Right on Jon... enjoying your channel, mate . Strengthen those bulkheads watertight and out of sight 😂 great job
Thanks Andrew! I appreciate that a lot 🙏👍🙌
@@livingforsail 👍😀 my pleasure
F your having a box , put filters before the box , quicker and easier to drain , then a mesh on the hose , keeps any pump protected . If its for a anchor you will, have lots of crap that will, enter , for your emergency bail out I have used on many yachts , a hose that can run from and overboard pump incl the bilge pump, ad a y valve , so you can roll out this hose to anywhere in the boat to bail out . Alot safer than putting crap in your bilge .
Good ideas. Thank you! 🙏👍🙌
I use nylon plumbing tape on threads like that. It holds on my high pressure air lines 120 psi it should definitely work on that drain
You have straight threads on high pressure air lines? Most of those fittings that I’ve seen are tapered NPT… 🤔
Excellent installation!
Thank you! 🙏👍🙌
You appear as a very well trained engineer
Thank you 🙏🙌👍
My anchor locker drains the same way yours originally did and I’ve always wanted to change that. Is there a reason why you vacuum bag parts like the little anchor locker floor piece? A regular hand layup is more than strong enough.
Vacuum bagging is a new skill to me so I’m mostly just experimenting. I agree that you don’t NEED to use vacuum to make this part. It’s just how I wanted to do it. 👍🙌
Precise work and great quality video!!! amazing energy!
Thank you! 🙏👍🙌
Yes because plywood has an odd number of plies there is always one extra ply in one direction or along one dimension usually the longest dimension unless you are buying specially made biased ply plywood that has the grain running at a 45 degree bias angle the fact that you are laminating sheets yourself means you need to alternate the plies just like they did at the plywood factory unless you want a lot more strength-stiffness in one particular direction. Most generic plywood is made with 90 degree plies that run perpendicular and parallel to the sheets edges and are 3 ply all the way up to 9-11 plies thick depending on the sheets thickness as to how many layers they use. Some specially made plywood for use in the marine and aircraft industry has extra plies even in the thinner sheet thicknesses and also they make some with 45 degree plies to the sheets edges as well.There are higher graded AAA royal marine and aircraft grades of ply have no voids in the core material veneers or very few and small ones that are patched properly and zero surface veneer defects also in the triple A grade materials. Plywood is a remarkable material too bad it has become terribly expensive for what it is and then it still has to have more money poured into the material to prevent it from checking and or de laminating and going bad again in a few years if it is exposed to moisture and the sun especially. Plywood doesn't absorb water as fast as other wood based sheet materials can like OSB or Balsa core does who's end grains act like wicks plywood does still do this same thing though overtime if it isn't kept sealed 100% and also the surface veneers can check (crack) if it is not laminated with light weight fiberglass finishing cloth with epoxy resin especially on sheets exposed to temperature swings. A lot of people are going away from plywood in boat construction to foams and plastic lumbers instead do to the fragility of plywood to moisture and heat checking. As long as you keep the plywood sealed 100% it will never fail though so just inspect and repair any scratches or cracks right away in the epoxy coating or keep it well painted and you will not suffer these problems. Make sure to coat the end grain with several coats of epoxy to seal that up really well also in the lower areas of you bulkheads that will be the spots that see the most water but do the whole thing you must completely encapsulate the plywood for the best lifespan preferably with lightweight fiberglass finishing cloth as a re enforcement also. Remember that if you don't have the time or money to do the job right right now when will you get the money and the time to fix it later on. Just take your time and do the job right the first time in other words
Wow! You really know your plywood facts! 🙌. Thanks for the feedback. I am planning g to have the new bulkhead fully wrapped and encapsulated in glass and epoxy.
I agree. Take your time and do it right once! Cheers!!
👍🙌🙏
I'm all for the water-tight compartment, however as I recall your windlass was deck mounted, and not below deck mounted withing the chain locker (below a hatch). Since you will not have access into the chain locker from the deck, the only access to work on the windlass electrical connections, dealing with chain castling, chain replacement / maintenance, or cleaning out the bottom of the chain locker would have to be done through a waterproof access panel. As that chain locker is fairly deep and most waterproof access panels on the market tend to be on the smaller size, I'm not quite sure that it wouldn't cause more trouble than it would be worth. I might consider protecting the bow with multiple layers of carbon fiber cloth instead, layered over the existing bow to add strength and rigidity against collision.
You are correct about the windlass wiring. I would probably target to have a cover/door closing from inside the locker (water pressure would hold it closed) … I would aim to get it “pretty water right” but more importantly strong enough to hold back the weight of the water. This would just buy me time in an emergency I figure and hopefully keep any water ingress to an amount the bilge can keep up with.
Thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍🙌
What are the cons of making it watertight, assuming you build a hatch? I guess the complexity of the hatch is one? I can how just sealing it entirely would be bad if you can’t access the locker.
That’s the major thing. Balancing locker access, complexity to add a hatch/door, added weight cost and materials to stiffen bulkhead with what could be around 3,000 lbs of water I figure based on some really rough estimates…
👍
Well done. This answered my questions about that floor. I’m amazed at the strength engineered into it. Will understand it later.
Yeah, I laughed when I saw the questions last video as I was already working on the problem 😉🙌👍
Limited budget??? I’d be interested in how you came up with a budget for tackling this project. With so many unknowns going forward, how do you deal with issues such as rotten bulkheads? Obviously you can’t cut corners on structural parts of the boat just to save the budget. Are you making sacrifices elsewhere or just adding to the budget? How does someone go about planning a refit of this magnitude? Not to mention scheduling YT episodes around this project.
Yeah, good questions! Haha. I think just like every construction project this one will end up over budget too.
I hope my wife’s not reading the comments today (hi Bridget!) 😳
I planned for a full deck replacement, the bulkhead did not even show up on the survey which I find interesting… you may recall that we bought the boat unseen.
Yes, my biggest expense is time and making the episodes adds to that exponentially…
When I have an opportunity to save $$ I take it! 👍🙌
What will you do about sludge, will you have a deck wash for the chain. Also it should be illegal to have that much fun fixing a sailboat
🤣 lock me up… 🙌
Yeah, I will have a wash down system running when I bring up the anchor 👍
I can tell your a engineer, I hope you know when B work is acceptable and even preferred if you don’t you’re going to make this project take a lot longer
I agree. The anchor locker isn’t a structural compartment. This is way over engineered. It’s hard to back off the engineering side. I agree with everything else but sometimes you have to say it’s good enough.
I'm with doing it once, but doing it as best as you can, especially bulkheads they have to be solid an integral part of your boats structure. Antidotes water damage is pretty bad so make it right now for longevity and piece of mind.
Yeah, it’s a good point. This is perhaps an area I could “back off a little bit”. I’m having fun so… 🤷♂️🙌👍
I think this makes sense too. 🙌
@@livingforsail I reread my comment I should’ve been more specific I wasn’t talking specifically about the anchor locker but more in a general way. It’s very difficult to analyze yourself. Just trying to be helpful
Would it not be safer to keep the bottom ridge , so the rubbish , mud rust , weed , falls there and not block the drain hole
I see your point. I’m hoping that I can flush the locker this way and keep debris out of the hole. We’ll see … 🤔
Will the thru-hull remain?
Do you mean the one on the starboard side aft of this new bulkhead?
I will probably remove it but haven’t fully committed to a plan there yet… 👍