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this video saved me so much time and money! Appreciated!

Hi Jon in my experience if it’s anything like my boat that laminate in the bulwarks will take a very long time to dry out possibly years ,I’ve been doing a very extensive recore of my decks from the inside ! my deck laminate even after removing the core and leaving it to dry for 2/3 months was still very high on the moisture meter ,the only way I could get the moisture level down to acceptable level was to grind down the laminate , if your still struggling to get your level down you need to take similar approach to me ,but your going to struggle with that in your bulwalks , what I think you need to do is get something like finger sander one of those mini belt sanders and see if you can fluff up the fiberglass with course grit on the Inside of bullwalks , or try and get it media blasted in there ,It’s the same process as with dealing with osmosis,actually the damp In the fiberglass is actually osmosis, just without the blisters yet , you need to try increase the surface area to help it dry out , also try tape over the hole in the top and set up some sort blower to suck air through it , even cold air will help , you need air flow in there to dry it out , also if can wash it out in there as there will be nasty chemicals in there due to the damp wood breaking down the laminate, if wash it down it will remove this osmotic juice and this will help the laminate dry out , I know sounds counter intuitive to add water bit it actually drys faster when do this ,

❤

Hey, I just discovered your videos and have only looked at a couple. Question for you. Have you watched any on TH-cam Sailing Magic Carpet? I believe that you are in BC as they are, and Aladino would be a great person to get advice from. Just saying. I will continue to watch.

Looks like you are making great progress on the bulwarks. The system you have come up with looks to make a nearly impossible task possible. I like the idea of filling the void with a closed cell pour foam. I would suggest using an epoxy pour foam rather than one of the polyurethanes. Mads on Sail Life used a high-density epoxy foam for the rudder rebuild on Ethena which was hard as a rock.

why not just build a boat anew ground up?

Towards a new camera!

You saw how those bolts have been eaten away over the years, what do you think has been happening to those chainplates??? PLEASE remove them and have them inspected or replace them with new external chainplates.

I,ll watch iphone content, keep it up 😉

Shame about the camera. Was looking forward to clear hi definition vids of wood rot removal. 😂 Will just have to rely on my imagination. Cheers.

I feel more like I'm watching a gardener preparing his potting mix than a guy fixing his boat! 😂 But cheer up, you're on the right track! 😎

One for the algorithm, nice progress on the bull work. Looking nice and dry in there. I don't think I would cut the inner bull work. It looks to be in good shape. Anyways keep up the good work, looking good cheers.

Did you conduct a general survey of the boat to have an idea of what's (still) ahead (bulkheads, deck, rudder, keel etc., etc.)?

So far yourself and the gentleman below are the only channels i came across explaining the various structural foams. You mentioned more items while he provided a demonstration. He's a second generation boatmaker. You guys should be acquaintances 😊 th-cam.com/video/A6J4aJvI3Fk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0zCN6vt3R8xlhMy1

Great stuff as always John 😎. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride 🤙

The boat on @SailingLiberty has chain plates just like yours, and they're in the process of attaching external plates all the way around. Their boat seems to be very similar to yours. Anyway, keep up the good work. Slaínte. ☘️😎

It's a heck of an adventure to dig into the boat's innards and it sure is interesting looking over the shoulder of the guy who's doing it. I really like how involved the people who are following this are, too. It's pretty easy to play armchair quarterback but a completely different thing to send custom tools from Texas! I have yet to dig into my own upcoming refit but this is super inspiring.

Jon, You are a brave man, and a through engineer. At 80, I'm well beyond the stage of life that I would undertake such a project. But I do enjoy watching someone who does and does it the right way, the first time!

Shame about the little chainsaw fry up, Jon. It's cool that the company will replace it for you. Man,a lot of work for you, but it will be all worth it. Antidote will be watertight and much improved

How can you have a good ole fashion Texas chainsaw massacre if the chainsaw dies 1st, ha-ha?

Seen on another channel where they used shredded glass and epoxy. Stuffing as he went.

Your can of worms is getting deeper than mine, But not by much. Keep up the good work.

Bummer about the camera however i don't think it will be massively impactful on the viewing experience as the content speaks for itself. When you are out sailing and shooting wildlife shots and dramatic scenary then yes a big chipped long lensed stabilised camera with great dynamic range will make all the difference but for now the interest is in the subject matter and your interaction to camera. IMHO

I'm sure you've heard this before, but you and Robert Downey Jr do look quite alike.

As much as you don’t want to cut the inside of the whole bulwarks off, perhaps doing it in the area around the chain plates will help result in a solid structure without any questions.

If you use a hair dryer on the real wet areas, it will work wonders to dry out the wetter sections. I use a larger dry air blower to dry pulp insulated wires from the 50s and 60s. The wet area you get to drys quickly and wicks the unreachable wetness towards the dry material.

Another great video Jon. I am glad you are taking the time to do it right. Also kudos to Gary for making you those awesome tools. Nice work.

Damn Gary!

OK! I am one who left the channel! ( too many toys not enough work? etc etc) but I still got notice of your new videos. so have kept up. I think this video has a new direction? work, work work! results results! I have subscribed again. OH? then you mentioned the camera?? just keep working on the boat, we are all with you on that job

A little confused, Does the second pocket run all the way forward on the bulwark?

Nidda core would be a good application for your bulwarks, if its good enough for transoms should be fine for your bulworks, cleanout then pour in never to rot again.

Hi Jon, I'm glad to see that you found that other layer of plywood ... if you recall way back in the beginning, i had expressed my concerns about there being rot up in those bulwarks that might compromise the stanchions. Really happy to see that they did put in a bronze backing plate system -- I think that the G10 is the way to go with both the chain plates and stanchion coring material. You'll never regret the extra strength for either area, and you might think about adding a couple extra pieces at intervals along the bulwark for extra anchor points for additional turning blocks or for deck tie down points in a storm -- since you have it all open it is the perfect opportunity!!! Don't sweat the camera thing -- the average person doesn't care if it's filmed in high definition or not, so long as everything is in focus. Save your money for the things that actually matter, like parts for the boat!!!

Always nice to watch someone working 😄

Cameras are expensive. Not certain if the monetary value of this channel can justify the cost of a new camera. I will say, audio quality is much more important than video quality. Your DJI mics seem to be fitting the bill perfectly. I have a pair of Insta 360R action cameras that that do great filming in 4k 30 fps. You don’t get that shallow depth of field like you do with the wide open aperture of an interchangeable lens camera, but you’re also not filming a cinematic masterpiece either. Just keep doing what you’re doing, and we’ll keep watching.

Just a tip on the saw. (I was a tree climber for 15 years) keep an eye on the raker, looks like it's a double raker (safety chain) these are garbage go to a saw shop and get a single raker. For what your doing I wouldn't sharpen with a round file. If you have access use a grinder made for sharpening this will harden the tooth of the saw ( you won't be able to hand sharpen the chain anymore) this will keep it sharper longer.... just a couple thoughts.

always good to see your videos

Thanks for sharing your adventures on your boat. Take care, and have a fantastic Thanksgiving with the family

Maybe use csm fibre and epoxy smooshed into the bulwark

oh and what did you take from it? tee hee!

...well you are wrong...we do care about this stuff! Keep it going, most enjoyable....

I want you to question your premise of either cot off or fill. Watched everything and understanding the construction of deck to outer hull. My idea is option C. Due to the variance in angle all the way down the hull, cutting off the bulwark at the bottom bad. Since you have a gap between the upper top of the outer hull and the inverted L from the deck, my suggestion is cut off the horizontal part of the inner bulwark at the top, then you could replace that with FRP or thin Cousa like a cap rail. If you cut the top off having an inner and outer vertical, you can control the variance in width with an internal piece and cap over both verticals with an outer piece. When you glassed over, you would have a join from say 6" below the sheer outside and to the base of the deck at the bottom of the bulwark. Love the detail you take. Brad

Using overpowered tools delicately can be extremely effective.

labor of love.

Definitely going to add the IP68 rated pin connectors to my project. Great Tip! Thank you.

Hi from Victoria BC! Im looking at a 42 vagabond (1983) center cockpit myself! Starting your videos from #1 cant wait to see where this goes!!!

Love Deutsch connectors. I use them on my LX for all my different lights and additions. Like you said a little expensive getting the correct tools but once you have the crimper everything else is relatively good prices. By far the best connectors if you need something weather resistant. Glad the chain saw is working so well!!

You are doing great, John 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

My 2c is to leave the bulwark structures intact, chainsaw seemed to have solved the main issue which was time suckage. Epoxying in the foam will be a messy process but doesn’t seem too difficult once the right width foam is cut. Good luck, I’ll be watching 👍

🙋 Слава Рукастым!!✊