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This Bulkhead replacement is a PAIN in the neck! - E018
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ธ.ค. 2023
- Making this bulkhead watertight might be harder than I thought?! Let’s take a look at the plan as we rebuild this forward bulkhead to replace the ROTTEN one that I pulled out of the sailboat a few weeks ago.
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Helpful Products in this Video:
316 Stainless Padeye amzn.to/3RlZj3Z
Router Circle Jig Jasper 200 amzn.to/3RcFI6e
¼” Double Flute Router Bit for Circle Jig amzn.to/46EVCvQ
Flush Cut Double Bearing Router Bit amzn.to/3T7EJH4
Adjustable Depth Rebate Bit amzn.to/46I2SqL
Electric Scissors (Worth EVERY Penny): amzn.to/49FaVr0
Fiberglass Cutting Blade for Electric Scissors: amzn.to/46niYWH
Boat Strength by Dave Gehr: amzn.to/3sX8HTp
Fiberglass Fin Rollers: amzn.to/3G3E6qf
Dewalt Self Leveling Laser: amzn.to/3QJgf3V
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Recommended Playlists:
Watch our journey from the very beginning!
• Restoring the Antidote.
Recommended playlist for other AWESOME boat refits:
• I QUIT! … to fix up an...
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![The Coolest COMPOSITE CHAINPLATES You'll Never See [EP 137]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qlsAsXLp9oE/mqdefault.jpg)
I for one appreciate the idea of making a jig to increase accuracy. A little more time now will save time and headaches later. Another great episode, thank you for sharing.
I agree. It’s usually not a whole lot of extra effort for a much cleaner and cooperative installation.
Cheers!
🙏🙌👍
If you anticipate the need for many additional perpendicular holes, Rockler makes a jig that will hold your drill perpendicular to the surface. It’s compact enough that you can drill perpendicular holes into surfaces at pretty much any angle. Very handy when drilling for deck hardware.
Thanks. I think I actually have one of those lying around somewhere… 🤔
That simple jig system you used for the padeye is a really good tip. I need to mount a windvane shortly which is a fairly fiddley to do on the mooring and will be perfect for that. Same same for the drogue chainplates.
Thanks. 🙏 It’s a trick I’ve used many times to get relatively accurate drillings. Good luck! 👍
More and more I appreciate this channel. It's definitely a sleeper! Well done!
Hey, thanks a lot for the feedback. I appreciate that. 🙏👍🙌
Another fine episode, Jon. I appreciate the drilling jig, anything you need to do more than once jig it, template it. Looking forward to the next one and wondering when you are going to hit critical mass and go viral in the world of DIY boat people. Your channel has the makings of greatness.
Haha. Thanks! I won’t hold my breath for critical mass, but you never know. 😳
I really appreciate the encouragement. 🙏👍🙌
Drill blocks are superb tools.
I love your meticulous work. If a job is worth doing, it's worth doing it right". At least that's what my father used to say to me as a kid. Keep up the videos, they are really quite professional. Cheers from Down Under.
Hi. Thanks very much. 🙏. I’m happy to hear that and agree with the sentiment 100% 👍🙌
Kapilary action 😮
👍😂
Excellent explanation of each system
Thanks! 🙏🙌👍
Thank you. Incredibly informative and useful even for those of us performing relatively small jobs on our boats. Best wishes from England
Thanks for the feedback. 🙏👍🙌. I appreciate that.
Excellent workmanship!
Thank you! 🙏👍🙌
Nice Ice Breaker you're making. I'm enjoying the series.
Haha. Yeah, we will be ready for high latitudes 👍🙌. I’m glad you’re enjoying the program. Cheers! 🙏
Old chippies(carpenters) saying Jon
Measure twice.. cut once!!!
Coming along beautifully, mate.
Yeah… I should know better. Haha. Metal is nice because you can always add more… wood, not so much. Oh well. We press on. Thanks for watching another one Andrew! 🙏👍🙌
@@livingforsail hey we live and learn.Cheers Jon
Just found your channel acouple of months ago. Then youtube blocked me because of my anti-virus/ad blocker. You've got great content. Hope to keep watching!
Thanks for the feedback. See you in the next one. Cheers. 🙏👍🙌
That's a lot of waste produced from such a small area of the boat (the V section in the bow) ..shame you can't re-use the mastic and some of the cloth components or maybe you can ! Is the vacuum process absolutely necessary , I mean it looked well wetted out before you did that? Great work regardless, really enjoying this.
Yes, some of those supplies are unfortunately waste. I reuse as much of it as I can and have used the same vacuum bag up to 3 times so far with good results.
It wasn’t essential here but the practice is helpful. The glass in the locker is lumpy and I was concerned about voids. Looking back I could have troweled it smooth with thick epoxy, let it tack up, and then wet layup overtop.
Perhaps that’s the plan for next time.
Thanks for the feedback!
🙏👍🙌
I enjoy watching your videos. I always learn something. Well done!
Thanks Marty. Always nice to see you stop by. Cheers! 🙏👍🙌
I’m going to reach out to Rudy. Great tip for any pins protruding.
Haha. Yeah. Tell him hello!👋 👍
Remember even if you take the bow off the boat the water in the compartment wont be much above the waterline.
I’m not totally tracking what you mean here… 🤔
@@livingforsail When you have a hole in the bow the water will only rise to the waterline and not fill the whole compartment. So the bulkhead does not need to be super strong/water tight all the way up.
I agree but i think that principle only holds in pond water. If we encounter weather with a breach I think I’ll be happy to have a door that is at least somewhat resistant to ingress…
You’ll need the jig again after you oversized the holes and fill with epoxy, right?
Yes. Correct (I did that off camera… I figured you guys might be tired about seeing holes filled with epoxy for a bit…)
👍🙌
Since that padeye needs to be watertight, will you be bedding it the same as you would for deck hardware? If so, will you also chamfer the bolt holes for a gasket of bedding material around the bolts?
Yes!! Good catch. I’ll show that detail in an upcoming video. 🙏👍🙌
Thanks John, great video
Thank you! 🙏👍🙌
Thank you for another incredible video.
Thank you! 🙏 I’m glad that you enjoyed it. 🙌👍
Another great video 👍
Thank you! 🙏🙌👍. I’m glad that you enjoy the work. Cheers.
I am not a specialist but i have seen damaged boats that had hit objects in the water while sailing, they both had damage all along the waterline from scraping along the object. My thought is that building a bullitproof bowlocker is certainly helpfull but having redundancy in pumps and compartments further aft is as important. Not meant to criticise your work, just giving my 2 cents 😉
That’s a good thought about things scraping the water line… Antidote is built pretty tough (one of my mentors says it was built like a battleship 😂)
I’m hoping to never need it but I think the bow is the greatest risk with what will likely be quite a bit of short handed sailing.
I will have quite a bit of redundant bilge pump systems before this is all over.
Thanks for the feedback!
🙏🙌👍
@@livingforsail The owner of one of the boats said they hit, rode up and then slid along something big, probably a container low in the water. The damage was extensive, it was a long keeled boat, heavily built, they had 2 holes at the waterline they managed to plug. This was years ago and a good scare to see.
Do you have concern about adhesion of the old flange forward of the bulkhead, or will you replace once back is tabbed in?
I am not too worried honestly. The epoxy is tenacious stuff. All the same we will add more tabbing to the forward and aft faces to make it really stout. 🙌👍 thanks for the question 🙏
Hey Jon, great video. I'm glad that you decided to put a layer of 1708 on the inside of the anchor locker -- I was actually going to suggest that!! You are going to add the 1708 to the top section too, you didn't show anything being added to the top section on camera. Question: That layer of foam around the perimeter at the top of the bulkhead that you added off camera, was that just raw foam glued in place with thickened epoxy? Are you planning to carve that into a fillet shape to create a curve for the fiberglass while tabbing in the bulkhead? I guess that I'm not really clear why you wouldn't make the bulkhead actually contact the hull to fillet in with thickened epoxy and then tab the bulkhead directly to the hull.
Yes, there will be glass on the upper section and then all tabbed together for a complete seal.
The video was getting too long so it will go into the next one likely.
I’ll get a better shot of the upper foam too. It’s the same Divinycell as the deck (6lb 3/4”) and it will be shaped to smoothly transition 3 layers of 1708 tabbing.
Thanks for the question. Cheers!
🙏👍🙌
Thanks for the clarification ... I wasn't too sure about the use of the foam, but i figured that was the reason that you were using it! Keep up the good work!! @@livingforsail
Do you need to vacuum seal the fiberglass to get it to set/cure, or is this just a more belt and braces approach?
Thanks
I
It’s the “harder way” 😉
I could use more braces and weigh it down or maybe temporary screws.
This way gives the best bond and most evenly distributed clamping force (way more than I could get otherwise)
… and it is kind of fun to pull it off I must add…
👍🙌
@@livingforsail hah of course! 🤣 Yeah completely understand, this method is new to me, results speak for themselves! Loving this series, keep it up 👍
@@bakey1111 Glad to hear that. Thanks for watching!
An apalling lack of chamfers...
🤷♂️
You stuttered when you said "not that I necessarily want them to be perfect", as if your body was rejecting the idea of imperfection.
Haha! (Nervous laughter)…
You do know that opinions are like assholes everyone has one Lol
😳