#3 Filler work, Technical & Practical usage on 71 Camaro | Muscle Car Respray
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ส.ค. 2024
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A Quality Instructional Video...Thanks Howard and the Crew
Thanks Shane, trying to keep it real.
Really enjoyed watching the show.
Glad you enjoyed it
The procedure info is fantastic!!! I May not have all the fancy tooling but the knowledge is key
Thanks mate
Good video on why things get done in order. I forgot to epoxy over some filler when I was done sanding it. It sat for a few days before I got epoxy over it. So after it was painted, I let it sit for a month, then found bubbles in my beautiful paintwork. Found rust under the filler from moisture seeping through it, so stripped the guard to bare metal.. start again, do it in order.
Yes it’s relentless
As a licensed Panelbeater I really struggle with some of these PPG modern methods. However as Howard has said in the past no one wants to pay for a true steel finish.
So true about steel finish, we are slowly losing that skill altogether.
Its great when you can get paid to do your best quality work. I always stuck with never let your bare hands touch anything before filler or primer without cleaning off first. That pinhole filler is great stuff i first found out about it wiping over fibreglass canopies years ago.
Thanks for the comments, you got them all correct
The technical name for your filler board with a handle is a 'hawk'. I use one as well, it's certainly a lot easier to pick up and put down if you need to whilst you're working a brew.
Same here. Just made 1 up at work. Heaps easier to hold as well.
Thanks mate, I have them mental blocks all the time.
@@AstillDesign haha, yeah me too. Love the videos, keep em coming.
Great video mate, very informative thanks for sharing
Our pleasure
Just a bit surprised seeing you use a plastic applicator when spreading the glass fibre filler which is definitely the most difficult filler to apply. It makes such a difference (to me) using the thin metal applicators which lay the filler down so much more smoothly than plastic ones. It seems to me like the filler wants to stick to the plastic applicators, whereas the filler doesn’t tend to drag off the steel ones in the same way. Anyway, great work & great series. I’ve been doing paint & body for just over 30 years, but I like to see how others do it & always open to learning from the best. Cheers.
Hi, I do have steel applicators but prefer the yellow plastic ones. Just a personal choice
Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Lookin good love your work cheers🎉
Thanks
@@AstillDesign welcome
Hiya, Great video, learnt a lot,thanks for sharing
Cheers
Another good video Howard
Thanks for the feed back. 👍
Wow, that hour went so quickly.
That’s got to be a good thing
Hello Howard, another great video, well done!
Question: after mixing filler, has anyone tried putting the mixture into a vacuum chamber to remove the bubbles? People do this for those artsy epoxy projects but I was wondering if that's an experiment worth trying? If bubbles are removed from the mix, I would be interested to know your thoughts on whether it helps during the application of filler.
Cheers mate
Mate I have no idea. I’m just suggesting to keep it to a minimum.
Thanks Howard, great detail, i have never used septone products as I thought they were DIY ones, good to know. Question for you, what prepsol spray bottle do you use? Do you drain and dry out each day? No matter what I spend on them if I leave them full for a couple of days they start to melt inside. cheers.
I’m using the startline ones from PPG. No problem with the PPG prepsol or the metho water
Which epoxy primer is that , is it a PPG product ? Thanks
Delton DP 616 epoxythane
Been in the smash Industry my whole life pretty basic stuff one rule I stick by is never put filler on bare metal in resto I don’t like spray bog or Polly I’d rather skim fill it and hand finish it then re epoxy it block that out then high build primer so on so on never put salt and vinegar hands 🙌 on bare metal always prepsole everything
Cheers mate, looks like we think alike. This one was a bit of an experiment but I like your way as well.
Do you find using guide coat on the epoxy and a light block with 320 helps highlight the lows without removing too much mills from the epoxy? Great vids.
With 2 solid coats of epoxy I block with 180 to find any problems. then wet on wet a fresh coat of epoxy followed by primabuild primer.
@@AstillDesign On the door for instance in this video how did you know you needed filler there?
I would have seen it or felt it.
1st time i have seen anyone apply filler over a 360 scratch. Does that tds sheet say that it`s ok? Love your process though .Good Luck with your build.
Yes mate, that is what PPG recommends. There is an 8 hour window after epoxy application where you don’t need to sand at all.
That makes sense I did not know you were still in the window.
Another great vid, the info never stop 👍 im not sure if yout an A grade trade's man or an artest, When did you start using that type of bog board, a solid plaster calls that a hawk,
Thank mate, some would say bullshit artist.😂
Been using the hawk for 30 years, just had a seniors moment and could remember the name
Great vid, as usual. I think I've used about 20lt of epoxy on my XE build 😲 (4x 5lt kits) bare metal inside and out. Does that sound about right? Don't want to say how many 3kg cans of filler🤣
Hi, that does sound a lot, but depends how much you are rubbing off through the processes. I use it as a guide coat in the next phase and that chews up a bit extra
@@AstillDesign yeah thanks, I guess I go pretty heavy on the sanding I guess.
Another top quality video howard 👏 👌 how do you find the electric block?
Thanks, It's a good tool that will save the shoulders a lot of work. I still like finishing by hand but I think that's just practice with the electric block
After applying the glass filler is it really necessary to epoxy over it? Can you apply body filler straight onto glass filler then seal it all up after?
I like to seal all the individual steps to avoid any potential reaction between different brand products
Dumb question. Are you wiping off the deox before you hit it with the epoxy?
im a complete amateur and i found that the acid would cause tiny pin hole fry up in 2k epoxy i was using.
Watch the first episode, it explains the full process.👍
Terry and ppg can use my vr statesman as a paint sample car if they want to paint it any colour they like lol oh and now I've finished the video when you stop doing cars you can make cakes
Heather said I’ll get fatter if I bake cakes😂😂
Howard where can you source the PPG & Mirka products locally in the Gong?
Hi Wayne, Platinum Paints would be the closest. give them a call I know they do delivery runs to Wollongong. (02) 9632 3400
platinumpaints.com.au
What primer are you useing before body filler
PPG DP616 epoxy urethane primer
Great video, after you deoxidine the panel do you sand it before you apply epoxy? thanks
Have a look at the first episode it explains in full. The short answer is NO sanding
Wash n up gloves🤣
Yeah!!
Too bad you did not start with VP2050 epoxy/high build all in 1. Would have saved you so much time and material.
We don’t have it in Australia
My theory .. epoxy is water tight .. so if your metal work is water tight just bog over steel and then apply epoxy over filler .. what’s difference ???….
The bare metal is oxidising (rusting)all the time you're working on it. So you will be applying epoxy over rusty metal.
@@AstillDesign I found this out the hard way. One of my first projects at 20 something y/o. Stripped my 73 Camaro to bare metal. Did my work and then painted it in Lacquer. Looked great for the first year. Second year the paint looked dull. Time went on and I saw spider webs under the paint that became more and more dense.
It was rusting under the paint. Complete paint job ruined. Broke my heart. Sold the car in primer after. BIG mistake.
I don't like what I'm seeing, I love it, and couldn't share it with mates quick enough.
Thanks for sharing!