#1 Body & Bare Metal Check on 71 Camaro | Muscle Car Respray at Astill Design with PPG
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- Terry Noble and Trevor Duke from PPG along with Howard from Astill Design discuss and use PPG products on the boot lid of the 71 Camaro. This is a detailed description of substrate preparation before the painting process.
D845 High Strength Degreaser
For initial cleaning of a vehicle prior to any preparation work. ▪ Removes oils, greases, road-tar, waxes, and other heavy contaminants.
▪ Ready for use - no mixing required. ▪ A lot more aggressive than D837
D837 Sprit Wipe
▪ Wax and grease remover ▪ Designed for use after a preparation / sanding operation. ▪ To ensure surface is absolutely clean before applying paint. ▪ Ready for use - not mixing required
SWX250 Water-Methylated Spirit Cleaner
A ready for use product containing a mixture of demineralised water & highgrade methylated spirit solvents. ▪ Designed to remove waterborne contaminants. ▪ Should always be used as the first step when preparing substrates for sanding or painting, when this step is completed, the next step should include a full solvent borne wax and grease remover.
PREPSOL 922 - 05184 Wax and grease remover
▪ Designed for use after a preparation / sanding operation. ▪ To ensure surface is absolutely clean before applying paint. ▪ Ready for use - no mixing required
X520 Metal Conditioner - Dioxidine
A phosphoric based conditioner that will deposit a uniform layer of zinc phosphate on properly prepared galvanised and steel surfaces.
DP612 EtchPRIME
A high performance acid based etch primer designed to give maximum adhesion over a range of substrates including aluminium and galvanised steel. ▪ It exhibits outstanding adhesion and anticorrosive properties on ferrous substrates Note DP612 EtchPRIME must be mixed with its own activator, DH713 Etch Catalyst. EtchPRIME may be used in a wet-on-wet system if required and may be overcoated with most types of DELTRON 2K Primers The use of this product is not recommended in conditions of high humidity 80% or low temperature 18ºc
MIXING RATIO 1 PART to 1 PART
DP616 EpoxyTHANE - same product as PPG Vibrance epoxy urethane primer
A two component adhesion promoting epoxy urethane primer designed to be used over bare metal surfaces, under polyester spray or hand applied body fillers and Deltron primers, to protect against corrosion. ▪ It also has excellent adhesion to steel, aluminium and galvanized steel. ▪ It should be used whenever optimum corrosion protection is required.
Note Do not use accelerator thinners in DP616. Do not bake
This series will be 13 Episodes, make sure you subscribe and click the Bell to be notified when we upload an episode.
We thank PPG for the support to be able to bring you these episodes
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Thanks to Perry's Garage for the project
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DA 210 Flexibiliser
Gives flexibility to Deltron DG colours, PrimaPRIME and Clear coats for use in low temperatures (down to -20°C) and on plastics. The positioning of plastic components on motor vehicles, e.g. bumpers, means they are more likely to be subjected to, bumps and knocks from outside sources, such as other motor vehicles, gutters, curbs, etc. PPG recommends flexibilising all plastics, particularly bumper bars, to improve impact resistance.
PPG refinishers www.ppgrefinish.com.au
Mirka www.mirka.com
PPG Australian distributers www.ppgrefinish.com.au/distributers/Australia.aspx
PPG New Zealand Distributers www.ppgrefinish.com.au/distributers/new-zealand.aspx
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Thanks to Astill Design & PPG coming together and showing the skills of both parties in getting the project righted and the surfaces prepped to a street level finish with an outcome of using correct methods to justify labour and material cost for the everyday end user.
Great information and detail Howard, looking forward to the series.
Our pleasure! just need to keep up with the bulk of the car.
I appreciate the attention to detail in regards to cleanliness and use of products. Must of been an oversight to use the old floral sheet or rag in the final process. Who knows what oils or unknown contaminants are on there? This series is going to be the best breakdown on TH-cam and will convert many people to ppg products.
Hi, we want to show how rags are not the best option, but I had run out of lint free cleaning cloths. All good now the new Mirka ones have arrived this week. thanks for following. Cheers H
@AstillDesign Thats all good, seemed out of place. Apologies if you mentioned that in the video.
Darren is a man of few words, but when he speaks take note hahaha
We mic him up all the time.🤔
@@AstillDesignhahaha
Great episodes as always Howard, in terms of getting rust off parts and small panels I have used critic acid, it’s quick and easy to use. All you need to do is neutralise it and prime it once it’s out in the open after a wash.
Thanks for the heads up
For the rust removal if your in a hurry then HCL or electrolysis but dose with TSP (tricleanium). Removes oil, paint and rust. Works even better if you can heat the solution.
Thanks for the tip
Absolutely..FANTASTIC!....Thanks Howard and all the Crew
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for the feedback
Enjoyed looking great, looking forward to your next episode Howard, have a great weekend 👊🍺🍻🍺🍻🇦🇺🤝🇦🇺😎👍✌
Thanks, you too!
Thank you Mr Astill,
our pleasure
Very informative this episode things I didn’t know learn something every day
Good to hear, that was the plan
Thanks for the informative video Howard. I was about to bare metal two E Coated gaurds, you have saved me a lot of work. Much appreciated.
Cheers mate
Thanks so much for doing this series Howard. You’re convincing me to try painting my build myself. #Inspriational
Good stuff, glad you could join us
good explanation of the metal prep,however it should be noted that removal of e coat while in a smash repair scenario on later model cars where the panels are reasonably new isnt in most cases necessary,in older vehicles where the panels may have been manufactured 20 years ago and especially the parts ex taiwan should be stripped to steel for peace of mind,even some of the older merc parts i use from germany have surface rust under the e coat simply because of the age of the parts,e coat is a preserver for sure,but like any coating..it has a lifespan.for the amount of labour,materials that usually goes on with these builds a few extra hours removing it,cleaning and epoxying could avoid tears later on
Totally agree, we were talking new panels. I have stripped NOS ford panels for the same reason.
I’m loving this new long format. Keep up the good work Howard and Louise. 😊
Thanks, will be interesting to see how the retention numbers go
Great information Howard.
Thanks to all who assisted you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Howard for a great video.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Hi l have learnt a lot, very nice work, Great video, thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent information, thanks for taking the time to put together.
Glad it was helpful!
Really useful and interesting series , ideal holiday viewing look Forward to the next one . Cheers . Steve .
Thanks for the feedback, cheers Howard
Hi Howard, i like your videos and aside from the value of just watching car build vids, they have helped me tackle bits on my build, especially welding and grinding panel gaps. Its great when you explain what your doing to fix gaps like hammering down the clip recessess, as i have the same issue on the front valance on my 66, but for the guys who watch your vids to build, they want to see how, so it would have been great to see how you do it. Hope that makes sense. Anyone can do car vids, but not all have the technical skills that people get from your channel. So when you have a way of doing something to get around an issue, thats what we want, (shouldnt say we) how do you do it? is it a tool youve made or just the way you place it, or do you just put a socket behind it to support it, stuff like that. Anyway, love your vids , i keep coming back to some more than others.
Hi, you must have missed the clip recess, Its in one of the episodes.
Thanks Howard, it was in episode 2. Thats what i love , the tips and tricks.@@AstillDesign
The front cone, 70'S GTO FRONT BUMPER /LIGHT SURROUND'S are a rubberised polyurethane. It was done to comply with the 5mph bump request by the DOT of America.
Thanks Neil, helpful information
Did u check hinge adjustment and stop position seems rushing in without looking properly
Hinges should b set in mid position of adjustment so when car is painted u have some movement 😀
Mate, if I recorded everything it would be a 10hr episode. Just trying to give an insight.
Great episode mate, very informative thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. Am hoping to do a respray on my street car next year.
No problem 👍 good timing
Hi Howard, great video! I’ve seen a few people using citric acid powder mixed with water being used to remove rust. Maybe that’s what makes the molasses work? Citric acid powder looks more expensive, but it might be more concentrated and less sticky to deal with and seems to be the best compromise when comes to acids to remove rust. When it comes to rusty parts I’ve also seen people on TH-cam using a regular high pressure washer with a cheap attachment that turns it into a wet sand blaster with good results, I’m going have to give it a go.
So many options, my dad always used molasses that’s why I thought I would give it a try
Great video as always Howard, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
At least the owner will see how bad the gaps were on that bonnet. They were pretty shopping along the front.
yeah still working on that
A PPG americana tem produtos para tratar a chapa antes do primer epoxi você os usou, eles tem um produto para retirar corrosão.
In the 2nd episode we show the Aussie version. Deoxidine
I believe when they pressed the bonnet for the scoop it shanks the bonnet in with the gaps am seeing there Howard .ill be taking to the owner to add metal in as it needs it badly before painting ..
Thanks for you thoughts
The longer format is much better Howard!
Thanks for the feed back
That block of wood is soft pine, as is all pine, the cutting process is the difference, treated = rough etc. You can call it anything you want but people are trying to learn, that’s why we are here , well not really to learn, we have a love of all things mechanical, I’m an Electrical Fitter/Mechanic/Engineer. I thing you do a great job for someone with no trade qualifications, keep it up, life is short. How much dod that shot put hammer cost? Looks brand new. ❤
Depending on the age of the tree that the timber is cut from will change the texture. This piece I would think was very young as it has no growth rings. (new growth forest) Treated means soaked to stop rot etc. Not all pine is the same.
The hammer is only used on panel work and all my tools are kept clean. Google tells me anything from $20- 120 for a dead blow
Put down the crack pipe pal. You put WAY to much credence in "trade qualifications". I haven't met a good tradesman yet that feels the need to cite trade qualifications, only those whose work is shite and are trying to justify their pay check.
Even for a street car/every day driver the gaps look shocking, but you can only work with what you've got
Oh so true,
Great info thank you
Glad it was helpful!
GT-P ...MMMM nice Colour
Darren’s ride, was the first (prototype) FG GTP
@@AstillDesign mmmmm
bloody awesome @ number 1of 13, with a shit load of other info, which @ times you cant get the right or enough info, will be doing a part resto on a XY that was F~~ked by a so call pannel beater 20 odd years ago, with 1/2 the job done & payed good money for @ the time,
seems to be an all to familiar story, I'm sure we can help.
Thanks Howard, what an insightful video. I really enjoy the longer videos. When you did the Mustang, was there a lot of similar issues around knowledge of how the panels were meant to be, just like you're experiencing with the Camaro?
To some extent, I was making the mustang how I wanted it to be, so it didn't matter.
Have you thought about glass bead blasting the SS trims and powdercoating??......seems to stick a lot better. I have to get our laundry tub done as the quality of the SS is not that great as it's rusting .....misso is sick of cleaning it......
Powder coat is a good option but if you want all the black to look the same then I paint it all.
Hi Howard. Quick scenario if I may. Panel has been deoxidined and sat like that for a week or so. To put this panel in expoxy, is the correct procedure light scotchbrite and prepsol?
Hi, you need to redo the dioxidine. Do not sand or scotch after treated as it breaks the metal treatment and exposes to the air. The deoxidine puts a coating on the metal. It should be painted within a few hours. No need to clean at all.
@@AstillDesign Excellent. Thank you..
Is there quite alot of tension on the L/H Front guard where the inner fender is bolted to it? Would loosening the inner bolts relieve that, possibly to help close the gap in the bonnet/middle guard situation. Sorry for the long winded question.😁
Adam has redrilled all the mounting holes to release any pressure/ tension
Howard, are we saying you should take the ecoat off before epoxy? or is it fine to epoxy over it?
Externally I would remove, on new panels I have prepared and epoxy as per boot lid in program. For older NOS I would suggest stripping
Thanks Howard@@AstillDesign
You can see when they put that reverse scoop in, it’s picked the back of it on the left-hand side bit of a bummer
Comments I was trying to delete that last comment sorry don’t know how to do it
I tell my kids classic, not plastic classic in other words chrome and steel bumper bars vehicles obviously
Yeah thats why I'm doing the van
Is it just tap water you’re using in the bucket?
Yes Ryan that's correct, Tap water
If the gaps aren’t perfect, the owner will just have to go in People watch the TH-cam channels on it convert you’re not supposed to do gaps but you’ll get them looking good anyway can’t help yourself
seems that way
Which epoxy do you use the 410 p p g? Thanks
DP616. PPG Deltron
Hi, I think the hardest part to paint for me so far is picking a colour 😂. where can I view PPG colour range? in Sydney.
A good start is to discount the colours you don’t want. That normally narrows it down to a few shades. Blue green red etc. all factory colours are available or google search PPG Vibrance. Then talk to your painter.
@@AstillDesign Thanks howard👍. After 30 years of owning blue Fords I was determined to do something different. After procrastinating about every other colour under the sun I have come full circle. I mean whats a Ford if its not blue. 😂
Those panels are manufactured terribly. Typical Reproduction crap. Stock Ford/Holden panels from the 60/70's put them to shame, and that's saying something. Poor Howard has to make a Silk Purse from a Sows Ear. I know you will smash it as always Howard and Darren.
Yes that’s why NOS are so expensive
What is the ratio for the water/metho? Or do you buy it premixed?
I’m using the PPG premix, 50/50 is the ratio
The reason the bonnet is on the piss is because the passenger side bracket opening thingy is on the piss, possibly needs a new spring, it also looks thinner than the driver side, like it rusted out and was just sprayed over. No thanks required, unless you want to give me a plug
Thanks again for your insight. For your information they are new billet hinges with gas rams.
@@AstillDesign Awesome! They are still on the piss.
When you were using the block of pine under the bonnet above the plenum on both sides of the car, the block was loose on the passenger side because that side was the raised side and you were about to hammer it down, I’m not sure why were you surprised?
I'm not sure if you have ever worked with an audience of 10,000 but I'm trying to keep it light and not cut and edit all the time. It's just me trying to tell you what I'm doing as I go along.
@@AstillDesign So you are trying to be less professional as your subscriber list gets bigger? The think is, we love cars thats why we are here, you sometimes act like you are special, i am also an expert in body language. When the music’s over (as in you run out of content) turn out the light…….
Did you delete my comments? I said nothing offensive, i’m just trying to edjumacate people. I think i will report you for this, unless you didn’t, did you? I mean you have done it before.
When you start making videos of your own, run a business and try to help others then you can appreciate how difficult it gets trying to please everyone and putting up with crass remarks. That's not really fair mate. Howard was merely thinking out loud as he was moving around that bit you questioned. Simple. No need to escalate and carry on like a pork chop either.
All pine is soft wood Howard do your homework Mate, and you are a manager not a wood expert, but honestly look it up you will that it is soft wood. The rest of what you said about texture is bull dust, what ever that is.
Correct, just some are softer than others.
@@AstillDesign Thank you for looking it up, but technically all soft woods are soft woods, all hard woods are hard woods, but having said that different types of soft woods have different densities i think they call it as the same for hardwoods. I’m pretty sure thats what you meant. Cheers.👍🫡