Thanks for the video man! Was wondering how to make a electric golf Cart gas powered using the shaft from the electric engine.. You showed me the piece I needed to use haha
can you post a picture of your chain tensioner. I am doing the same thing, but I am setting up rear end a little differently. I totally pressed out the 19-spline shaft out of the electric stator. I am going to use a pillow block bearing and cut a keyway in the shaft. ! have to have it turned down to 1". The stator splined shaft is like 1 3/32nds. Im curious. with the rear end being a solid rear end does the chain ever make any grinding noises or show wear if one side of the machine is tilted one way due to the passenger load or material being hauled? thank you for your video! very informative i will share a video when I'm done with mine
I did a video on the chain tensioner. I bought a Roll Ring and used it. It's been over a year since I converted my golf cart and the chain never makes noise and has never come off. th-cam.com/video/Mx1ZeubfXfA/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps, The Roll Ring is an awesome chain tensioner, made things so simple to do and it extends the life of the chain because it doesn't allow the chain to whip around. It smooths out gear changes too!
This is exactly what my Grandson and I are about to do. Good ideas on the transmission to existing axle mod. Tech Tip. The key switch assembly must be grounded to kill the engine🤓
Yes, I figured that out a few minutes after I said that. I had to run a wire from the box to ground. But it is good to note that. Also I ran the chain from the CVT sprocket to the input shaft of the transmission, not the output shaft as I originally stated, then I used a coupler to connect the transmission output shaft to the rear end. I don't think I mentioned that in the video either. Thanks for watching and commenting on the video. I appreciate that.
thanks, it was a fun project, however there is a flaw in the video. I said I used the input shaft of the transmission. I actually used the output shaft of the transmission, took the sprocket off and used a coupler to connect the output shaft to a 5/8" shaft welded to the spline connector from the electric motor. Any how, I have not had any problems at all with the conversion. It can take a lot of abuse and it pulls wheelies...
@@RandyKraege I though about it, but I would have to cut and remake all the brackets on the opposite side. I'm just going with a jack shaft out the yoke and then run chain from the 212.
i see in other videos that the gear box is opposite (on the other side). and am wondering witch way is forward/reverse. i have mine set up similar to yours. just looking for insight before i weld it up. just want to be sure my forward and reverse are are configured correctly due to the gear ratio in the box . thanks in advance for all your help.
the output shaft will turn in the direction of the engine when in forward and opposite in reverse. Forward has a slight reduction gear, for every 1.25 turns of the input shaft in forward the output shaft will turn once. When in reverse the input shaft will turn 2.5 turns for every one turn in the opposite direction on the output shaft. I hope that helps. Sorry for the initial confusion in my video as I forgot to mention the switch I did while making the video. I had no idea so many people would watch this video. I thought maybe 100 views but its at 5600 views now. I wish I had taken the time to do a better production.
can you leave a link to the muffler and air filter? I'm putting an 18hp duromax in an ezgo cart and can't find muffler or airfilter for engines that large. I'm only seeing them for 6-7hp which doesn't fit. Thanks!
the muffler is something I made. I cut the original muffler off its flange with my bandsaw. then welded a bent exhaust pipe I bought from Go Power Sports to the flange with my mig welder. I used a supertrapp exhaust from an old dirt bike to use as the muffler. The air filter was something I bought from Amazon. I measured the diameter of the carburetor flange and just bought an air filter that fit.
@@RunsWithScissors Thanks for replying. I was able to make a muffler earlier out of pieces of a new one that didn't fit. Do you happen to have a link to the air filter assembly you bought? I'm having a hard time finding one that is the right size.
@@TimothysTractors I bought it so long ago that my Amazon account archive doesn't allow me to go back that far. If you can measure the inlet diameter I can look for one. Also I have gone to the K&N website and ordered filters by inlet size for other projects I have done.
@@TimothysTractors I'm really sorry that I can't get to the order I made on amazon for the air filter. It all came as a unit. The adapter for the carb and filter. It was over a year ago so I can't get back in the amazon archives to find it. Dang, I will keep looking and if I find any more info I will post it in the description where I have the other links for parts. Sorry Tim, I just don't have the info right now.
Hey man, I’m not sure if you’d be able to help me I did a predator 420 swap in an easy go and I’m having a hard time figuring out why this thing is so slow. I use the same gearbox that everybody else is using with the chain, going from the gearbox to the transaxle and for some reason I can’t get over 10 mile an hour I know for a fact of pressure 420 should go faster and 10 mile an hour I had a 10 tooth sprocket on the gearbox and a 12 tooth on the rear axle and then I switched it to a 36 tooth on the rear axle on it didn’t make a difference.
the rear axle on my easy go has a 14:1 reduction ratio. The gearbox has a 1.25:1 reduction ratio in Forward and 2.5:1 in reverse. Putting the 36 tooth on the rear axle with a 10 tooth on the gearbox would add 3.6:1 reduction. you need to put a larger sprocket on the gearbox and a smaller sprocket on the rear end. I don't know if the 36T sprocket will fit the gearbox but you need reverse the sprockets.
Can i do this without the torque converter and just use a chain? Or will that be bad. I currently have this exact motor in my 93 club car, and ive got a comet 740 clutch on it with a belt to secondary drive clutch but its just not fast enough for me.
I don't know what a 740 clutch is, I suppose its a centrifugal clutch. I believe the engine has the torque to do it but don't know if the clutch can handle it. Centrifugal clutches tend to run hot. You'll have to experiment and see. The thing about using a torque convert is that changes the ratio continuously where a centrifugal clutch is set to only one ratio.
Dan, thinking about this a little more, it sounds like you just need to change your sprocket ratios. If you want to go faster put more teeth on the front sprocket and fewer on the back sprocket. The rear end of my EZGO has a 14:1 ratio. I don't know about Club cars.
Its been over a year since I built this and its still going strong. I thought I would have blown the gearbox by now since the engine puts out more power than its rated for, but its still going. Doesn't pop out of gear or nothing. The chain has never come off. I have carried two adults and 400 pounds of corn through gullies, up hill and across swamp where the water came up to the floor. Still going strong. The gearbox is oriented so the drain is at the bottom and the filler cap is on top.
The corrected pic/video is the one you're watching, I just didn't mention that I turned it around in the video. If you look at any of the frames that show the transmission bolted in place, the input shaft is the input, the output shaft is the output and I'm using a coupler to connect the output shaft to the axle. I had to drill a 5/8" coupler halfway through with a 16mm drill bit to fit it. I used a 5/8" keyed round bar to connect the output to the axle drive.
Fun projects I just finished a 1980 Yamaha golf cart but I used a 65 hp snow mobile engine 544 cc , damn had to put wheelie bars on it and a roll bar,,l built a rocket,, 80 MPH.
There is no swing arm. the engine mount is welded to the frame and the engine is bolted to the mounts. the axle is on the stock leaf springs. The forward/reverse transmission is on a mount that was welded directly onto the rear axle and aligned with the CVT sprocket and rear end. Only the drive chain connects the axle to the CVT sprocket. I use a roll ring as the chain tensioner. No issues what so ever and it pulls wheelies and hauls 500lbs of corn up and down hills, gullies and ditches. I have never had the chain come off even without the chain tensioner.
@@RunsWithScissors the clutch type ,gears, transmission/gear box and where you got them. Any issues with using the input shaft as the out put? also i see a lot of people fab up a swing arm suspension so the motor and rear axle stay on the same plane. Did you do this?. im pretty much going to copie your design as it is probably the best video I've seen in reguadrs to simplicity and detail,
The smaller engines don't have electric start. A 7hp engine would be rather anemic. I routinely put 500 lbs of corn on this golf cart along with a passenger and the 16hp engine does not hesitate to carry us up hills.
I have the same golf cart but my biggest problem is now that I sent the motor to be rebuilt by a scammer on eBay who I'd probably still has up with the motors
thanks for watching and commenting on the video. I realized it was a grounding issue about a minute after I had said that. I just ran a wire to ground and it worked. Great that you knew that, shows you know your stuff... :-)
Thanks, I got it and replied with links to the parts I used. I appreciate that you watched the video. As I shared with you, there are mistakes in the video. I originally thought the forward/reverse transmission was a 1:1 in forward and reverse but figured out its 1.25:1 in forward (a slight reduction) and 2.5}1 in reverse (a big reduction). So I couldn't use the input shaft as the output. I had to use the input shaft as the input and the output shaft as the output. that's where drilling the 5/8" coupler halfway through with a 16mm bit came into play. All I can say is I've got 6 months of use so far on my conversion and no problems at all. I can haul 500 lbs of corn and a passenger up hills and through swamp without a hitch. I left the governor on the engine for reliability and still have wheelie popping torque!
I used the same foot pedal, just made a bracket that held a cable in place so I could connect the other end to the carburetor. The cart is at my hunt camp so I can't take a picture or video of it today but the next time I'm out there I will take a video of it and post it on my channel.
@@edwinmcguire6040 yes you are correct. By using the original gas pedal I was able to still use the original mechanism that unlocks the brake once you press the throttle. Oh, and thanks for watching the video and commenting on it.
Thanks for the video man! Was wondering how to make a electric golf Cart gas powered using the shaft from the electric engine.. You showed me the piece I needed to use haha
can you post a picture of your chain tensioner. I am doing the same thing, but I am setting up rear end a little differently. I totally pressed out the 19-spline shaft out of the electric stator. I am going to use a pillow block bearing and cut a keyway in the shaft. ! have to have it turned down to 1". The stator splined shaft is like 1 3/32nds. Im curious. with the rear end being a solid rear end does the chain ever make any grinding noises or show wear if one side of the machine is tilted one way due to the passenger load or material being hauled? thank you for your video! very informative i will share a video when I'm done with mine
I did a video on the chain tensioner. I bought a Roll Ring and used it. It's been over a year since I converted my golf cart and the chain never makes noise and has never come off. th-cam.com/video/Mx1ZeubfXfA/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps, The Roll Ring is an awesome chain tensioner, made things so simple to do and it extends the life of the chain because it doesn't allow the chain to whip around. It smooths out gear changes too!
This is exactly what my Grandson and I are about to do.
Good ideas on the transmission to existing axle mod.
Tech Tip. The key switch assembly must be grounded to kill the engine🤓
Awesome video!! in order for the cutoff from key switch box to work it needs to be grounded to the chassis.
Yes, I figured that out a few minutes after I said that. I had to run a wire from the box to ground. But it is good to note that. Also I ran the chain from the CVT sprocket to the input shaft of the transmission, not the output shaft as I originally stated, then I used a coupler to connect the transmission output shaft to the rear end. I don't think I mentioned that in the video either. Thanks for watching and commenting on the video. I appreciate that.
Great video Nick! Easy to follow and really makes me want to try it myself. Well done!
Nicely done! Awesome video
thanks, it was a fun project, however there is a flaw in the video. I said I used the input shaft of the transmission. I actually used the output shaft of the transmission, took the sprocket off and used a coupler to connect the output shaft to a 5/8" shaft welded to the spline connector from the electric motor. Any how, I have not had any problems at all with the conversion. It can take a lot of abuse and it pulls wheelies...
It looks like i should have gotten an electronic one to convert. The 2 stroke ezgo spins the opposite direction of a 212cc..
You can flip the axle? seen that done before.
@@RandyKraege I though about it, but I would have to cut and remake all the brackets on the opposite side. I'm just going with a jack shaft out the yoke and then run chain from the 212.
i see in other videos that the gear box is opposite (on the other side). and am wondering witch way is forward/reverse. i have mine set up similar to yours. just looking for insight before i weld it up. just want to be sure my forward and reverse are are configured correctly due to the gear ratio in the box . thanks in advance for all your help.
the output shaft will turn in the direction of the engine when in forward and opposite in reverse. Forward has a slight reduction gear, for every 1.25 turns of the input shaft in forward the output shaft will turn once. When in reverse the input shaft will turn 2.5 turns for every one turn in the opposite direction on the output shaft. I hope that helps. Sorry for the initial confusion in my video as I forgot to mention the switch I did while making the video. I had no idea so many people would watch this video. I thought maybe 100 views but its at 5600 views now. I wish I had taken the time to do a better production.
You could always pull it back apart and do a more detailed explanation as you put it back together slowly@@RunsWithScissors
can you leave a link to the muffler and air filter? I'm putting an 18hp duromax in an ezgo cart and can't find muffler or airfilter for engines that large. I'm only seeing them for 6-7hp which doesn't fit. Thanks!
the muffler is something I made. I cut the original muffler off its flange with my bandsaw. then welded a bent exhaust pipe I bought from Go Power Sports to the flange with my mig welder. I used a supertrapp exhaust from an old dirt bike to use as the muffler. The air filter was something I bought from Amazon. I measured the diameter of the carburetor flange and just bought an air filter that fit.
@@RunsWithScissors Thanks for replying. I was able to make a muffler earlier out of pieces of a new one that didn't fit. Do you happen to have a link to the air filter assembly you bought? I'm having a hard time finding one that is the right size.
@@TimothysTractors I bought it so long ago that my Amazon account archive doesn't allow me to go back that far. If you can measure the inlet diameter I can look for one. Also I have gone to the K&N website and ordered filters by inlet size for other projects I have done.
@@RunsWithScissors I've got the air filter but not the right adapter that goes on the 2 carburetor studs
@@TimothysTractors I'm really sorry that I can't get to the order I made on amazon for the air filter. It all came as a unit. The adapter for the carb and filter. It was over a year ago so I can't get back in the amazon archives to find it. Dang, I will keep looking and if I find any more info I will post it in the description where I have the other links for parts. Sorry Tim, I just don't have the info right now.
Hey man, I’m not sure if you’d be able to help me I did a predator 420 swap in an easy go and I’m having a hard time figuring out why this thing is so slow. I use the same gearbox that everybody else is using with the chain, going from the gearbox to the transaxle and for some reason I can’t get over 10 mile an hour I know for a fact of pressure 420 should go faster and 10 mile an hour I had a 10 tooth sprocket on the gearbox and a 12 tooth on the rear axle and then I switched it to a 36 tooth on the rear axle on it didn’t make a difference.
the rear axle on my easy go has a 14:1 reduction ratio. The gearbox has a 1.25:1 reduction ratio in Forward and 2.5:1 in reverse. Putting the 36 tooth on the rear axle with a 10 tooth on the gearbox would add 3.6:1 reduction. you need to put a larger sprocket on the gearbox and a smaller sprocket on the rear end. I don't know if the 36T sprocket will fit the gearbox but you need reverse the sprockets.
Can i do this without the torque converter and just use a chain? Or will that be bad. I currently have this exact motor in my 93 club car, and ive got a comet 740 clutch on it with a belt to secondary drive clutch but its just not fast enough for me.
I don't know what a 740 clutch is, I suppose its a centrifugal clutch. I believe the engine has the torque to do it but don't know if the clutch can handle it. Centrifugal clutches tend to run hot. You'll have to experiment and see. The thing about using a torque convert is that changes the ratio continuously where a centrifugal clutch is set to only one ratio.
Dan, thinking about this a little more, it sounds like you just need to change your sprocket ratios. If you want to go faster put more teeth on the front sprocket and fewer on the back sprocket. The rear end of my EZGO has a 14:1 ratio. I don't know about Club cars.
how well did the gear box hold up mounted that way?
Its been over a year since I built this and its still going strong. I thought I would have blown the gearbox by now since the engine puts out more power than its rated for, but its still going. Doesn't pop out of gear or nothing. The chain has never come off. I have carried two adults and 400 pounds of corn through gullies, up hill and across swamp where the water came up to the floor. Still going strong. The gearbox is oriented so the drain is at the bottom and the filler cap is on top.
HUM, how long did that last with that chain drive??
Still going strong and I abuse it a lot, going over logs, jumps, carrying a lot of weight, pulling wheelies, etc
do you have an updated pic/video after you corrected the input output
The corrected pic/video is the one you're watching, I just didn't mention that I turned it around in the video. If you look at any of the frames that show the transmission bolted in place, the input shaft is the input, the output shaft is the output and I'm using a coupler to connect the output shaft to the axle. I had to drill a 5/8" coupler halfway through with a 16mm drill bit to fit it. I used a 5/8" keyed round bar to connect the output to the axle drive.
Fun projects I just finished a 1980 Yamaha golf cart but I used a 65 hp snow mobile engine 544 cc , damn had to put wheelie bars on it and a roll bar,,l built a rocket,, 80 MPH.
Awesome! please post some videos of it on your channel, thanks for watching my video. This cart will pull wheelies too but not like yours does!
any details on the swing arm??
There is no swing arm. the engine mount is welded to the frame and the engine is bolted to the mounts. the axle is on the stock leaf springs. The forward/reverse transmission is on a mount that was welded directly onto the rear axle and aligned with the CVT sprocket and rear end. Only the drive chain connects the axle to the CVT sprocket. I use a roll ring as the chain tensioner. No issues what so ever and it pulls wheelies and hauls 500lbs of corn up and down hills, gullies and ditches. I have never had the chain come off even without the chain tensioner.
can you supply some links to the parts ?
sure, what parts are you interested in?
@@RunsWithScissors the clutch type ,gears, transmission/gear box and where you got them. Any issues with using the input shaft as the out put? also i see a lot of people fab up a swing arm suspension so the motor and rear axle stay on the same plane. Did you do this?. im pretty much going to copie your design as it is probably the best video I've seen in reguadrs to simplicity and detail,
How are you using 16hp engine when most are using 7hp?
The smaller engines don't have electric start. A 7hp engine would be rather anemic. I routinely put 500 lbs of corn on this golf cart along with a passenger and the 16hp engine does not hesitate to carry us up hills.
The key ignition didn’t shut it off because you have to ground it to the body of the golf course
thanks for watching the video, yeah I figured out the problem about a minute after I spoke about it.
I have the same golf cart but my biggest problem is now that I sent the motor to be rebuilt by a scammer on eBay who I'd probably still has up with the motors
Ground the switch housing to ground
thanks for watching and commenting on the video. I realized it was a grounding issue about a minute after I had said that. I just ran a wire to ground and it worked. Great that you knew that, shows you know your stuff... :-)
sent you an email.
Thanks, I got it and replied with links to the parts I used. I appreciate that you watched the video. As I shared with you, there are mistakes in the video. I originally thought the forward/reverse transmission was a 1:1 in forward and reverse but figured out its 1.25:1 in forward (a slight reduction) and 2.5}1 in reverse (a big reduction). So I couldn't use the input shaft as the output. I had to use the input shaft as the input and the output shaft as the output. that's where drilling the 5/8" coupler halfway through with a 16mm bit came into play. All I can say is I've got 6 months of use so far on my conversion and no problems at all. I can haul 500 lbs of corn and a passenger up hills and through swamp without a hitch. I left the governor on the engine for reliability and still have wheelie popping torque!
Can i email you? im looking at copying your build and have a few questions
no problem, I would be glad to help you and let you know how things are going with my golf cart build out.
How did you hook up your Throttle?
I used the same foot pedal, just made a bracket that held a cable in place so I could connect the other end to the carburetor. The cart is at my hunt camp so I can't take a picture or video of it today but the next time I'm out there I will take a video of it and post it on my channel.
@@RunsWithScissors Thank you. Was thinking I'll just have to make a Bracket, I just didn't think installing a new peddle was needed or wise.
@@edwinmcguire6040 yes you are correct. By using the original gas pedal I was able to still use the original mechanism that unlocks the brake once you press the throttle. Oh, and thanks for watching the video and commenting on it.
@@RunsWithScissors The Brake Interlock is a BIG Plus in my mind. Thanks again.