As always, it's an absolute pleasure watching you take us through your process of design and fabrication! Congratulations on the clean bill of health and four years of great content! Here's to much more of both! Go Paul and Mitch, keep moving forward!
FYI - Engine turning is a decorative process that is called Perlage in the watch world. The watch community also came up with other decorative effects like Geneva Stripes, Anglage (outside chamfer), Black Polish, Hammer Finish, Engraving (highly detailed, like on some firearms), Sinks (inside chamfer on screw locations) and polishing of screws and wheels.
Paul, you are producing a library of techniques for us all to draw upon. I'm very glad that your recovery is on track, the world needs more Paul Brodie videos. Thanks to Mitch for recording it all too. Best wishes, Dean.
In the railways I was taught to engine turn with a dowel in the chuck of a pedestal drill, and a fine lapping paste spread on the surface. Glad you are thriving Paul!
Good to hear you are healthy. I have a suggestion. Instead of using a nut and bolt for the brace to hold the fender, why not braze a low crown 1/4" screw in the location of the hole on the inside and protruding outside, then use and acorn nut to hold fast. I am just thinking it would be smaller near the tire, maybe not collect as much salt and would not dig into the tire if something got bent, not that it ever should. Acorn nuts are available in different grades of steel, even chromed, stainless, aluminum, plastic , brass, etc. Instead of a washer, blue Loctite would hold it in place.
I think I know what you are talking about... But, the screw would be at an angle, so the hole it goes into would have to be much larger, right? Thanks for commenting..
@@paulbrodie I would drill the hole in the fender brace tabs first, position it over the fender and possibly tape it to the fender so things do not move, mark the hole carefully, and disassemble, then drill one hole in the fender and mount one stud, reassemble and check how all the marks align. If good, drill one hole at a time and check. I would not drill 4 holes at once. Proceed as your comfort allows. When all is said and done, it is your bike and your build and my idea may be overkill. I was thinking since you have rules, just less parts to be having issues with once on the flats. BTW, good luck there.
Well, the holes have been drilled for a couple of weeks now, so I cannot turn back the hands of time.. But thanks for your interest and for wishing us luck on the Salt Flats!
It’s crazy how often your projects align with mine. I was about to make fender stays for my 1970 cb350 front fender no kidding! I do enjoy your brazing, I like watching on my phone and zooming in so I can watch your technique up close! Thanks so much for all the lessons, I will for sure draw inspiration from this video over the weekend!! Thanks a million!!!!
Hey Paul and Mitch, so glad to be on hand to celebrate with you! Glad to hear about your "C" numbers being on target, too. I like your approach to making the fender mounts. These are going to be nice! See you next time!
What great news! Thanks for sharing your health progress. I fully expect to see a long series of numbers commemorating the years on you tube as we enjoy all the amazing art and craft of your work
Sir I have been busy with work and my woodworking channel so I haven't had a chance to watch your videos in a while. Decided to watch this one on Sunday at 5:40 in the morning. I remember why I watched. Awesome content with awesome information. Glad you are doing well.
You are doing a very nice job on the fender mount BUT I think you would get much better air flow over the fender with the mounting bars under the fender instead of on the top. Keep up the good work and looking forward to 4 more years.
Hello Paul and Mitch, well done on your fourth year we look forward to the next four years. I recall listening to a race mechanic from the 1950’s. He explained that modern replica cars have their aluminium dashboard very neatly, mathematically, finished in perlage or perle’e as the French describe it. However, he described, originally they would finish the dashboards freehand for a far more informal pattern. Well more power to you very best wishes regards Kevin.
Hi Paul. I noticed that you still have the Dunlop front tire on your Aermacchi. Here in Europe it‘s not available anymore since years and all the alternatives with racing compounds have a much higher cross section, which needed new mudguard mounts on my Aermacchi racer when I changed to the Avons … so if you might intend to fit new tires this might neccesitate more work than usual! Thumbs up on your health condition and keep the videos coming! All the best, Tilmann
Glad to hear that you are going well. Don't go to too much trouble with the guard. The salt is going to wreck it. You won't be able to clean it as easily as you might think. Sorry if I sound negative. I've made a career remediating salt damage to helicopters.
Glad ur all well Paul ❤ ur shows,light is right,the fender (mud guard) needs to be the cable mount and torque arm aswell,remember what Colin Chatman always said everything has to do at least 2 jobs 👍👍👍👍👍
Hi Paul surprised you opted for chrome mudguard (fender) for your machine. I'm sure you have the talent to make (or buy) an alloy version and alloy stays for land speed attempt.?
It's ok to be surprised... Alloy fenders are not made that long, for what I want. Weight is not an issue at the Salt Flats. Some even add lead weights to their bikes. The fender will get painted orange, and the stays will get nickel plated, so it will look smart...
I really like your extension on your tapping head. I am going to do that, the one I have currently has a short arm and puts a lot of pressure on the up and down bar I use .
If you rotate mudguard so front edge is level with line through axle you will have better aerodynamics. Cover as much of the wheel as the rules allow to reduce windage. I don't remember when I read about it, long time ago. 😎
What you say is probably true, but the fender is done except for painting.. Top speed is 100mph, and with no fairing, it will be a bit like pushing a brick through the air.. Thanks!
Thought I’d mention that you could remove that beautiful front brake. I assume you’ll be in modified class. You won’t need it at Bonneville. I clear coated my brake drum liner so it wouldn’t rust. Can sand it off later. The salt is very harsh on everything.
Master Paul, would You be so kind to explain the pros and cons for picking brass fillet welding, nickel silver soldering and TIG welding one over the other? Also cromoly versus mild steel versus stianles (304 and 316) tubes and pipes - what are the pros and cons?
Good to see you are Better, Our Prays for you mate. and real good to see you getting at it. Iam about to mount a front gaurd my self. you gave me some real good ideas . cheers Dave from Australia
Hey Paul, glad to hear your health is improved. This kind of hand fabrication is becoming rare. You're a national treasure.
Very nice of you to say so. Yes, people who actually make things with their hands are rare...
Global treasure!!!
As always, it's an absolute pleasure watching you take us through your process of design and fabrication! Congratulations on the clean bill of health and four years of great content! Here's to much more of both! Go Paul and Mitch, keep moving forward!
Thank you very much. Appreciate your comments!
FYI - Engine turning is a decorative process that is called Perlage in the watch world. The watch community also came up with other decorative effects like Geneva Stripes, Anglage (outside chamfer), Black Polish, Hammer Finish, Engraving (highly detailed, like on some firearms), Sinks (inside chamfer on screw locations) and polishing of screws and wheels.
You have some knowledge! Thanks for sharing...
Wonderful news Paul, thanks for letting us know.
Thanks David!
Nice to see the Aermacchi making an appearance again.
Thanks Tom!
Paul, you are producing a library of techniques for us all to draw upon. I'm very glad that your recovery is on track, the world needs more Paul Brodie videos. Thanks to Mitch for recording it all too.
Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dean. Yes, we are almost up to 200 videos!
Fab quality work as always, Great to hear your doing well.👍
Thanks Richard!
Thanks for your videos! You have golden hands!
Very nice comment.. Thank you!
For spacing fenders for tire clearance I lay fuel line across the tire in multiple places. That gives me side clearance along with radial clearance.
I'm happy to hear that your test are clear! Thanks for 4 years of informative videos.
Thanks Mark. Appreciate your support! ☺☺
HAPPY 4 YEARS OF TH-cam Paul and Mitch
It's SO GOOD to hear you say you are OK!!!
WELL DONE, BOY!!!!
Thank you. Yes, I am feeling very healthy...
I love your Elvis sun glasses lol kidding aside great work
Those are my brazing glasses, nothing to do with Graceland! Thanks Marc...
Good to hear all is well.
Thank you very much!
Four years and many more. Great video of fender build, Paul.
Yes, Four Years! Thank you....
In the railways I was taught to engine turn with a dowel in the chuck of a pedestal drill, and a fine lapping paste spread on the surface. Glad you are thriving Paul!
Congratulations on getting a clean bill of health. Thanks for sharing your videos. 👍
Thank you so much!
hearing the good test report is the best news all day! and congratulations on 4 yrs its been a learning experience for lots of us .
Thank you. Yes, there is a Lot to be thankful for. We hope to make a Lot more videos....
Good to hear you are healthy. I have a suggestion. Instead of using a nut and bolt for the brace to hold the fender, why not braze a low crown 1/4" screw in the location of the hole on the inside and protruding outside, then use and acorn nut to hold fast. I am just thinking it would be smaller near the tire, maybe not collect as much salt and would not dig into the tire if something got bent, not that it ever should. Acorn nuts are available in different grades of steel, even chromed, stainless, aluminum, plastic , brass, etc. Instead of a washer, blue Loctite would hold it in place.
I think I know what you are talking about... But, the screw would be at an angle, so the hole it goes into would have to be much larger, right? Thanks for commenting..
@@paulbrodie I would drill the hole in the fender brace tabs first, position it over the fender and possibly tape it to the fender so things do not move, mark the hole carefully, and disassemble, then drill one hole in the fender and mount one stud, reassemble and check how all the marks align. If good, drill one hole at a time and check. I would not drill 4 holes at once. Proceed as your comfort allows. When all is said and done, it is your bike and your build and my idea may be overkill. I was thinking since you have rules, just less parts to be having issues with once on the flats. BTW, good luck there.
Well, the holes have been drilled for a couple of weeks now, so I cannot turn back the hands of time.. But thanks for your interest and for wishing us luck on the Salt Flats!
It’s crazy how often your projects align with mine. I was about to make fender stays for my 1970 cb350 front fender no kidding!
I do enjoy your brazing, I like watching on my phone and zooming in so I can watch your technique up close! Thanks so much for all the lessons, I will for sure draw inspiration from this video over the weekend!! Thanks a million!!!!
Hi Paul so good to hear this today God bless you.
Thanks Mark. 2024 is a very good year so far!
Certainly made my day knowing you’re ok. Take care Paul , may there be many more years ahead 👍👍
Congrats on the 4 years Paul and Mitch. Thanks for all the interesting videos!
Paul is a meditation vibe
I liked the TLAR approach (That Looks About Right)
Thanks. I heard a saying years ago.... "If it looks right, it probably is right..." That works for me..
Hey Paul and Mitch, so glad to be on hand to celebrate with you! Glad to hear about your "C" numbers being on target, too.
I like your approach to making the fender mounts. These are going to be nice! See you next time!
Thanks Tom.. We appreciate your support!
What great news! Thanks for sharing your health progress. I fully expect to see a long series of numbers commemorating the years on you tube as we enjoy all the amazing art and craft of your work
Sir I have been busy with work and my woodworking channel so I haven't had a chance to watch your videos in a while. Decided to watch this one on Sunday at 5:40 in the morning. I remember why I watched. Awesome content with awesome information. Glad you are doing well.
So happy Mr. Brodie!!! God is good! Keep up the great job 👏
Congrats Paul and Mitch on 4yrs .Good to hear your health is all clear , look forward to another 4 yrs of watching you 👏👏👏👌cheers Chris
You are doing a very nice job on the fender mount BUT I think you would get much better air flow over the fender with the mounting bars under the fender instead of on the top. Keep up the good work and looking forward to 4 more years.
Hi Paul. I so pleased to hear your health update. That trip to Scotland should be on your list now🙂
Glad you're better, and healthy, happy 4 year anniversary.
Art takes time and effort. That’s why most things out there look like crap. Thanks Paul for keeping Art alive. Congratulations on 4 years. 🎉
Hello Paul and Mitch, well done on your fourth year we look forward to the next four years. I recall listening to a race mechanic from the 1950’s. He explained that modern replica cars have their aluminium dashboard very neatly, mathematically, finished in perlage or perle’e as the French describe it. However, he described, originally they would finish the dashboards freehand for a far more informal pattern.
Well more power to you very best wishes regards Kevin.
Always good for the mind watching the vids - Entertaining, relaxing and educational... Thanks👍
Good to hear that you’re doing well
Awesome. So glad here’s to 4 more !
Hi Paul. I noticed that you still have the Dunlop front tire on your Aermacchi. Here in Europe it‘s not available anymore since years and all the alternatives with racing compounds have a much higher cross section, which needed new mudguard mounts on my Aermacchi racer when I changed to the Avons … so if you might intend to fit new tires this might neccesitate more work than usual!
Thumbs up on your health condition and keep the videos coming!
All the best, Tilmann
Glad to hear that you are going well.
Don't go to too much trouble with the guard. The salt is going to wreck it. You won't be able to clean it as easily as you might think. Sorry if I sound negative. I've made a career remediating salt damage to helicopters.
Good news Paul, keep up your health! And congrats on the 4th anniversary! May many follow. ;-)
That's awesome news Paul!
What great news Paul . I truly hope you have great health and here's to many more years of magic content. Great video mate cheers 😢
So. That"s how it is done! I am looking now at my chairs and couches.
Glad ur all well Paul ❤ ur shows,light is right,the fender (mud guard) needs to be the cable mount and torque arm aswell,remember what Colin Chatman always said everything has to do at least 2 jobs 👍👍👍👍👍
I’m happy to hear of your positive results. Side gesunt!
congratulations on the good health report!
Something grips my intestines when I think of all this work being finished in a beautiful manner and then exposing it to salt!
🤣
Amazing job!
Nice !
That's OK Paul, 42 is the answer to everything.... Just do not forget your towel. 4:00 - Nice CAD work, aka cardboard aided design. 😂😁👍
😂
That is the best news I've had this week, so glad to hear you are doing well 😊
Hi Paul surprised you opted for chrome mudguard (fender) for your machine. I'm sure you have the talent to make (or buy) an alloy version and alloy stays for land speed attempt.?
It's ok to be surprised... Alloy fenders are not made that long, for what I want. Weight is not an issue at the Salt Flats. Some even add lead weights to their bikes. The fender will get painted orange, and the stays will get nickel plated, so it will look smart...
Beautiful work 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
I really like your extension on your tapping head. I am going to do that, the one I have currently has a short arm and puts a lot of pressure on the up and down bar I use
.
Glad to hear you are doing well.
Thanks Paul for another video!! I really appreciate seeing how you engine turn finish! Still working through your back catalog!!
Hope to see you in Bonneville!
If you rotate mudguard so front edge is level with line through axle you will have better aerodynamics.
Cover as much of the wheel as the rules allow to reduce windage.
I don't remember when I read about it, long time ago. 😎
What you say is probably true, but the fender is done except for painting.. Top speed is 100mph, and with no fairing, it will be a bit like pushing a brick through the air.. Thanks!
Excellent video! When do you plan to get on the salt?
Thanks Gregg. Speed Runs are August 25 - 29...
Thought I’d mention that you could remove that beautiful front brake. I assume you’ll be in modified class. You won’t need it at Bonneville. I clear coated my brake drum liner so it wouldn’t rust. Can sand it off later. The salt is very harsh on everything.
Master Paul, would You be so kind to explain the pros and cons for picking brass fillet welding, nickel silver soldering and TIG welding one over the other?
Also cromoly versus mild steel versus stianles (304 and 316) tubes and pipes - what are the pros and cons?
Hopefully there will be up to ten and more.
One thing you may want to consider is; if the fender is too close to the tire, salt can build up between the fender and the tire and rub.
would a video showing your pedal bike collection be possible? love the video and great to hear about your health : )
Having watched a video by Superfastmatt, I have an idea that the salt is by far the worst part of salt flats. His homebuilt car definitely suffered.
❤
All I see is number 42!😂
You say Fender i say Mudguard lol
Ok..........the vice is the work horse of a shop......
Raise up? Come on Paul....
Bravo........analogy.......cardboard is the engineer dream........glue gun ........looks like it's not ur first rodeo.....cheers
👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👨🏭👍🏻
you have to tell the story of your accent;
and lots more of "4 years" 🎉
Beanz don't ##### 😂😂😂😂 add attachments 😂😂😂😂
Love the videos but please lose the gloves at the mill.
Your a whizz with cardboard !
Good to see you are Better, Our Prays for you mate. and real good to see you getting at it. Iam about to mount a front gaurd my self. you gave me some real good ideas . cheers Dave from Australia