Hobby Cheating 73 - Speed Painting Tricks for Higher Quality
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- In this Hobby Cheating video, I take you through the speed painting of a unit of Tzaangor and walk you through some of the tips and tricks I use to achieve a higher quality paint job fast. Hope you enjoy!
Twitter: @warhammerweekly
Vince's RPG Podcast: itunes.apple.c...
15 bar air pressure? That would be kind of insane. I assume you mean 15 psi, which is approximately 1 bar. ;)
I did mean that, 15 PSI - I had no idea that was the math! Learning all the time.
OMG..... block the paint with finger.... why i just can't think of it. MIND BLOWN
Yep, it's a pretty easy thing, I do it all the time. I also keep the old glove there and I sometimes just wrap a finger from the glove around something. :)
This is another example of why this is my favourite Warhammer related channel. You're thorough, and WW is also great to listen to while painting Though I likely won't paint these guys any time soon, I can try to use these techniques on my next unit. . I don't have any bananas on hand so these best banana Runts will have to suffice. ;)
Banana Runts should suffice for sure ;) - and thanks, that is my hope, that you can take what I am doing here and use it for whatever units you want to paint.
Hi Vince, I really liked this video. Please, keep doing more like this :) Thank you!!
Thank you sir, much appreciated. Just to clarify, by "more like this" are you wanting some more end to ends? Just want to make sure I understand the request :)
I mean more speed painting tricks, but keeping a good painting standard. Right now the most common thing when you look for speed painting videos is to find 'dipping' methods. We have to acknowledge that they may be slightly faster and more forgiving, but your approach makes you invest just a bit more of time and the end results are 10-fold better :)
Understood, done and done, I have another one coming this weekend.
You're the goat, sir!
Glad to help
Thanks for the video, Sir! I got two main thoughts from this, get an airbrush because it's the best hobby investment I'll ever make and eat bananas to improve muscle control. Oh yeah, one more thing as well, the key to speed painting is painting lots of things at the same time..speedily. Love your videos!
Seems like the got the critical information. ;)
Great fun to watch!
Thank you, glad it was helpful and at least mildly interesting ;)
Morning Vince, what do you set your PSI to on your compressor (around about). Thanks for all you do mate, can't thank you enough. Firm handshake from Australia. Stay safe.
18 PSI. :)
Great content as usual, from the best YT channel. I was wondering if you covered wet pallets in a previous vid, if not I would love to read/hear your thoughts. I have been using a wet pallet for a few months, and really like it, but words from the master are always appreciated.
I doubt I have much to add if you are using it, but my video on it is here if you are curious - Fair warning, it was one of my earlier videos, so please forgive the general quality - th-cam.com/video/Uv_u5r-XyFY/w-d-xo.html
Vince, do you play any of the games or just paint the models? Also, do you have a video painting Blood Angels? I've tried other tutorials, but I like the way you explain how and why you use certain colors.
Yep, I play as as well. I don't have a specific tutorial on Blood Angels, but I do have a video on doing red that I believe is very Blood Angel red - th-cam.com/video/FOTKQF0AaZM/w-d-xo.html
I have another video on reds here, I set it to the time code with the second example which is closer - th-cam.com/video/Kr5022d-mNE/w-d-xo.htmlm39s
Great video. This vid is a big help as I'm going to paint up about 30-40 bonesplita Orc's soon. So do you think instead of doing a normal zenithal priming I can use 3-4 colors of green and do a zenithal with them as my skin?
Sure, you would want to start really dark with that green to create the proper shadows (like black/green or something). Darker greens also work well over zenithal when glazed, so I think you could go either direction and be good with it.
Nice share
Thank you sir, much appreciated.
Come to Shanghai and give do some workshops!
It would be nice, but I suspect it won't be happening anytime soon, that being said, I will keep the videos coming. :)
Hey Vince, Could you tell me what you prefer to use to seal your miniatures with?
Testor's Dull Cote, only thing I trust not to fuzz.
i believe that you state in the video with the metal flamers, that one should avoid using black as your darkest color for xenithal/under shading. does that apply to this, and if so, what was your base color?
In general, I avoid black, I use German Panzer Grey (which is a very dark grey, in general, that works better than pure black as it's a little softer).
Would there be a chance for painting and shading WHITE vehicles like UN WHITE tutorial
?
I will happily add it to the list.
In your purple glazing step do you think you could use something like the Warcolours transparent paint?
Yep, you would want to have a nice even, smooth flow and application, but absolutely.
What color would you suggest for thousand sons tzaangors? Got an airbrush and would like to try your techniques
Any turquoisey leaning blue should work. If you use a pale flesh as your highlight in the zenithal, it will help the Taangor flesh feel like living beings.
@@VinceVenturella cool, was trying to go for the scheme on the sigmar box
@@VinceVenturella what did you base prime them in? I used Vallejo grey. I guess just hit them with the plae flesh for highlights now? Kind of daunting. I have 50 lol
Hi Vince just wanted to say great video and ask a kinda weird question. I'm just about to get back into AoS and this has made me finally want to try airbrushing. I wouldnt be the worse with a brush and can follow what your saying but do you think this guide would be too tricky for someone that has never used an airbrush before?
I'll be honest, it would be tough, but not impossible. It takes a little time to get the exact muscle control and work the brush enough to know how much paint your particular brush is going to push out. That being said, it would be great practice and you can get close enough to achieve most of this without issue.
Thanks I'll dig out a bunch of older dust builder models and try and get to grips with things first then. Cheers for the advice
Hi mate love the vids. One question. I am currently painting pink horrors with airbrush zenithal. Going to use Gw pink horror as the glaze colour. What do you use for thinning, and how thin should I go?
So if I was doing a pink horror, I wouldn't use the actual pink horror color for this technique (first). Here would be my steps.
1) Grey/Black Primer all over
2) Dark Purple of choice all over
3) Grey 45 angle
4) White 90 degree angle
5) Carrionburg crimson all over through airbrush. The reason you want a darker crimson is you don't want a paint with much white (which pink necessarily has). When the thin crimson shade goes over the white, it will become a bright pink.
6) Optional - Light touch with Pink Horror from above in targetted ways
7) Optional - very light touch with Pink Horror/White from above on a few target areas.
There you go, hope that helps.
Vince Venturella awesome thanks. Unfortunately I have already done full zenethal without the dark purple layer. Still go with carroburg? Do you think a 50/50 mix of carroburg and thinner will be roughly about right?
Maybe I could do a targeted underspray of purple now holding model upside down?
Sure, so you have a few options.
1) Purple controlled from a low angle.
2) Don't worry about it, it will still be pretty close to fine, you will just have a more grey red in the shadows.
3) More 2 shade to 1 thinner max, maybe 3-1, it's already quite thin.
I want an airbrush so bad...but my painting room has no ventilation whatsoever
So my room doesn't have ventilation, but I use a venthilation hood with an air filter and a mask. Never had any issue from there.
Could you do a video on it if you don't already have one?
What colors did you use to prime and ZH them? I have mine primed in Vallejo grey atm.
Base primer is German Panzer Grey (it's black/grey), then cold grey, then dead white.
Vince, how much do you thin your paints for the glazes through the paint brush also what do you use the thin them? I have both Vallejo thinner and airbrush flow improver and use Vallejo game/model air.
A lot, it's hard to say as it's not an exact ratio. But the answer is test over white paint on the back of your hand. If it is just tinting the color, then it's thin enough. As to what to use - water or thinner medium, or a mix of both, is your best bet.
As usual, thanks for the detailed reply! I'll try this out soon.
What size nozzle do you recommend using for this work? I have a 0.4mm and a 0.2mm. I use the 0.4 for priming, just wondering if its worth switching it out for the smaller one for painting?
I think the .4 is fine for most of this work. The .2 is what I use for very fine detail work only basically. (that being said, my normal is .3, so I guess that is kind of in the middle).
Vince, of all the painting TH-camrs you seem to have the most balance between display models and speed paint projects. Makes me curious how many finished armies you have? Also, for your personal projects do you find yourself leaning more towards display quality or more towards tabletop?
I have 20 painted armies. FOr my personal projects, I do some of both, I have speed painted armies and I have armies that took thousands of hours total. It's the variance that keeps it interesting.
@@VinceVenturella Cool, thanks for the insight!
What's your dilution for the crimson? Like 6:1 thinner to paint?
I don't measure exactly, but yes, something close to that.
Hi!!! Which are the purple and blue colors you used? They look great!!
The Pink is Bloodfest Crimson, the blue is Plasma fluid from Badger. But any purple/magenta/blue inks (Vallejo, Scale 75, FW) would work.
Fantastic video Vince, these end to end style videos are great, away to watch the NMM ones now. I've literally got a wardrobe full of boxes games/start collecting/ebay purchases that just need painting so going to try some of these techniques. Probably starting with the worse colour for it with pale flesh for the Reavers in the Shadespire box though. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos :)
Thank you happy to help as always. Yes, flesh tones are the hardest to do some of this with. That being said, if you go look at my hobby cheating on doing fast caucasian skin tone, I actually use a blood reaver as an example in that video, so that might be of good help on this first project.
Vince Venturella Yup, I'll be trying that before the weekend with the airbrush 😀
Great video! At the beginning you talk about not using yellow. What if that is the exact color you want to use? Any plans to do a video on yellow in the near future? Love your work man, and your approach-ability! The high quality of your product is why I will keep telling my friends to watch your stuff!
Thank you sir, I appreciate the watch and I really appreciate the sharing. Onto your question, yellow over pure zenithal doesn't generally work because you want to have something besides black underneath it. If you are doing yellow, orange or flesh tones, you want a zenithal that includes deep or ruddy brown to warm white instead of black to dead white.
So for example, if I were doing some imperial fist marines, who are traditionally very yellow, I might prime in the same grey/black, but then give the whole thing a coat of dark brown, then do a light ruddy brown at 45 degrees, then a good coat of warm white at 90 degrees, then yellow over the whole thing.
Hope that helps.
Some good advice there. Can I ask, why you wouldn't just start with the dark brown? Also, have you done any more work to that figure you were learning to sculpt from Joe Orteza at GenCon? I keep meaning to go back to mine, but never do.
If you have a good dark brown primer, you could, I just don't happen to have that sort of primer and like to use the black grey to get a nice even coat. YMMV as always. I have not gotten back to it, but I like it all the same, it taught me sculpting isn't for me ;)
how do you prevent dry tip from happening in the airbrush? On mine it clogs up every 2min...
or at least delay it
In general, more thinner, you want to keep the paint wet. I use vallejo airbrush thinner and it generally keeps everything flowing smoothly.