The TH-cam algorithm gods brought this video to me right as I was trying to figure out why my blend wasn't looking quite right. As always, thank you for your content. It's phenomenal.
Yep, I want to cover both painting texture alone (creating it solely through paint) and adding actual texture through pigment and heavier paints. Should be fun for sure.
Nice video. Can you tell me the difference between warcolours transparent, glaze, and ink paints. Also what are your favorite gold and bronze paints? Thanks
So Transparents are still gel based and simply more translucent, it has to do with pgment density. Glaze paints are a step lighter, they are actually my favorite in the range. They are basically pre-mixed glazes that save you from thinning to the exact level necessary. They are wonderful for tinting colors or adding pop colours. The inks are more traditional inks, i.e. medium and high pigment. They have a great range of colors though they are very glossy when used straight, they are better for thinning by mixing with the actual paints. My favorite gold and bronze are the Vallejo Metal Color for pure acrylic colors, the liquid gold is amazing, but they use alcohol as the solvent and so are are much more finicky and challenging to work with.
Vince Venturella Thanks for the reply, it really helps. Can you tell how the minitaire ghost tints compare to those three. Also I don't think I'm quite ready to deal with the alcohol based paints so do you have a water based gold/bronze you like? Thanks
The Ghost Tints are much like weaker inks, they are very glossy, but they are great over things like metallics or a strong zenithal, they are also quite reasonably priced. The Vallejo Metal Color gold and copper would be my choice. I use them as often as possible.
For general wet blending, will you still use flow improver? Or is that only necessary when doing extreme transitions that require multiple layers to build up the color?
MOst of the time, I use a bigger brush and just more paint, but yes, if you're going extreme, a little flow improver (or even drying retardent as well) can help.
I don't know if I'd be able to make this technique work with such and extreme shift. I think I'd be more comfortable finding a way to airbrush the transition, I feel I could get a better end result. It's trickier because, whereas when I've wetblended before, its always been dark shades to a hightlight, using the zenithal prime as a guide. Here, we need to highlight AS WELL AS transition the base colour. I'll have to give it a try.
Certainly this can be more easily done with an airbrush, but that being said, it's often the case that you have a small area and this can be a way to get those transitions into those areas or in detail. I picked these colors as they were a more difficult transition, but there is no wrong way to do it. :)
You're seeing things. :) - I am using some thin artists wet palette paper as I have been trying out different papers, but they are very transparent when wet.
Sure, here is what I tried out. I like it okay, though I am not sure it's better than baking paper - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PCGNWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So for my Redgrass palette, I use the paper that they have as I really like it. That being said, Reynolds non-stick baking paper is a great substitute and works very well.
Vince Venturella thanks! When I use baking paper or parchment paper it keeps lifting and drying. I cannot seem to keep all of the paper down and wet. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually.
A great way to get a pretty striking result quickly. Seems like your camera was struggling to focus a little at times though. Will you be at Warhammer fest this weekend?
No, you can use it straight, but it's a gel retardent, so it's a little harder to mix into your paint. I usually use Liquitex or Warcolours, which are liquid retardent.
Hello Vince, First, massive thanks for all the content you put out - you and James Wappel are among my favorite artists, both in personality and approach to painting. Second, somewhat off-topic-ish, I have been using Zenithal Priming and that has helped my very-non-artistic brain understand how light disperses over a model, but one of the areas I struggle with is covering up the previously primed area with paint that is too opaque. My question is somewhat two-fold: Is there a type or brand of paint you tend to favor that pairs well with zenithal priming? I.e. paints that thin/glaze well similarly to your "Painting with Washes, Shades and Inks" video? I have been using Vallejo, but I am tempted to try Scale75/Warcolours if they are more suited to glazing over zenithal. I did pick up the Scale75 Inktensity Set, but I haven't employed them that much. Perhaps those would be a suitable application? Are there instances where you simply have to basecoat over your zenithal priming and simply "remember" where the zenithal primed "sketch" was? Take the typical Generic Fantasy Figure, where you have a mix of skin tones and armor/fur/cloth; I haven't had much luck with flesh-colored glazes over the greyscale priming. What would you suggest to help maintain the "integrity" of the sketch priming, while still being able to achieve the flesh tones? My "ideal" predominate painting style would be to apply thin almost-translucent coats over top of the undercoated model, and employ other techniques as needed. Edit: Additional edit, congrats on the Golden Demon placement! That's awesome!
Sure, Scale 75 and Warcolours are better for thinning to glazes. Have you watched my tutorial on glazing? You should be able to use any brand of paint really. one of the keys is darker color paints, you don't want white in your paint, as that is naturally opaque. Sure, there are some times where you lay down a new basecoat, but it's usually minimal. The most common is metal paints. As to the flesh tones, you can aid yourself with an undertone (do it from below between the grey and the white) or purple or deep red). Then you should be able to do flesh with much more ease. The real key is just thin your paints more. Ifyou are covering up your work, your paint is too thick. Glaze and Thinner medium can certainly help, especially with paints like Vallejo.
Alright, I might give Scale75/Warcolours a shot for fun in the future. Do you still prefer the Fantasy & Games line compared to the ScaleColor? I did pick up some Vallejo Glaze Medium recently to play with for now. I have watched a couple of your glazing videos, I just went back over your first hobby cheating, as well as some examples with some of the chaos guys. I think you mentioned you can use a white to basically "reset" for a highlight, which makes sense because white is opaque and is effectively becoming a new "reflective layer" for the transparent glaze layers, yeah? Ok, so darker colors. Is there a short list, like flesh tones, that generally do not like to play well with the black/white undercoat? Guessing yellows, oranges, and pinks? What about browns and greens? Metallics, check, that makes sense. For the undertone, do you apply the undertone with the airbrush as well and just be careful, or do you apply with a brush? Let's say you have a figure who is wearing a hooded cloak. You want your base zenithal to be maintained, but want to undertone the face and/or hands: What is your preferred method to apply that purple/red undertone? If you already have a video that has demonstrated that, just point me to the number in case I missed it! Thank you for your time and info!
I have, you can find it here - th-cam.com/video/QcnAyDGUA1E/w-d-xo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=108 Now, that is for bright, minty green ork skin. If you wanted more sallow traditional orcs, just add in ochre or deep yellow where I am using brighter near whites and you are good.
When you airbrush you get two effects, particulate "sprayed" look from lighter colors andthe micro particles and ultra smooth transitions. The latter is quite useful, the former gives it that "Airbrushed" look and it can be a dead give away. Inks can be used when thinned down over those transitions into lighter colors and their naturally liquid, so they look different and spread easier when the particles hit the surface, making a "smoother" surface and eroding that "particulate" look.
You can only get them direct. Warcolours Links: Full Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3 Base Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=113&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3 Layers Specialty Sets: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=55&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3 Starter Set (10 Paints + 2 Brushes): www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=121&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3 Transparent Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=73&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3 Metallic's Paint Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3
Great video Vince! I was watching the video and I was wondering... Can you use this technique to paint NMM? Because I really like the finish of non metallics but I hate the time it takes, bittersweet xD I mean... For tabletop quality, nothing fancy but decent :)
Vince Venturella yeah it sounds so simple 😁. Been trying to get some nmm going but its the paint consistency that gets me. I even bought some vallejo retarder, which helps, but its still the consistency that's a pain. Working on it though. In time i may get there =p
My small contribution (and my first wet blending attempt) on Tzeentch flamers: www.jammerjun.net/tartofig/2018/02/25/le-changement-cest-maintenant/ GW Sotek green -> GW Xereus purple -> Prince August (Vallejo) Magenta Still have to tackle the big one on its charriot.
The TH-cam algorithm gods brought this video to me right as I was trying to figure out why my blend wasn't looking quite right. As always, thank you for your content. It's phenomenal.
Fantastic, always happy to help. :)
When you’re up at 1am because you hit the gym too hard and everything hurts......mmm soothing wet blends......thanks muchly Vince 👍🏻
Sounds like the perfect time for some wet blending to me. :)
Hey great video can't wait til the texture tutorial. I can't find anything on that subject without it being about citadel basing.
Thanks Vince!
Yep, I want to cover both painting texture alone (creating it solely through paint) and adding actual texture through pigment and heavier paints. Should be fun for sure.
Great technique on the blending. Nice to see the detail up close.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Good stuff Vince, nice camera work too
Thank you, I think I am finally getting the camera down. :)
lol men it is hard to find a channel even remotely related to warhammer without a comment from you.
Great video. I can see a big improvement in your video technique, mush easier to see what you are doing in this one.
Glad to hear it, I think I am finally getting the camera technique down. :)
Nice video. Can you tell me the difference between warcolours transparent, glaze, and ink paints. Also what are your favorite gold and bronze paints? Thanks
So Transparents are still gel based and simply more translucent, it has to do with pgment density. Glaze paints are a step lighter, they are actually my favorite in the range. They are basically pre-mixed glazes that save you from thinning to the exact level necessary. They are wonderful for tinting colors or adding pop colours. The inks are more traditional inks, i.e. medium and high pigment. They have a great range of colors though they are very glossy when used straight, they are better for thinning by mixing with the actual paints.
My favorite gold and bronze are the Vallejo Metal Color for pure acrylic colors, the liquid gold is amazing, but they use alcohol as the solvent and so are are much more finicky and challenging to work with.
Vince Venturella Thanks for the reply, it really helps. Can you tell how the minitaire ghost tints compare to those three.
Also I don't think I'm quite ready to deal with the alcohol based paints so do you have a water based gold/bronze you like? Thanks
The Ghost Tints are much like weaker inks, they are very glossy, but they are great over things like metallics or a strong zenithal, they are also quite reasonably priced.
The Vallejo Metal Color gold and copper would be my choice. I use them as often as possible.
For general wet blending, will you still use flow improver? Or is that only necessary when doing extreme transitions that require multiple layers to build up the color?
MOst of the time, I use a bigger brush and just more paint, but yes, if you're going extreme, a little flow improver (or even drying retardent as well) can help.
@@VinceVenturella Awesome, thank you!
I don't know if I'd be able to make this technique work with such and extreme shift. I think I'd be more comfortable finding a way to airbrush the transition, I feel I could get a better end result.
It's trickier because, whereas when I've wetblended before, its always been dark shades to a hightlight, using the zenithal prime as a guide. Here, we need to highlight AS WELL AS transition the base colour. I'll have to give it a try.
Certainly this can be more easily done with an airbrush, but that being said, it's often the case that you have a small area and this can be a way to get those transitions into those areas or in detail. I picked these colors as they were a more difficult transition, but there is no wrong way to do it. :)
It looks like you're only using the sponge from your wet palette, leaving off the paper. Is that what's going on or am I seeing things?
You're seeing things. :) - I am using some thin artists wet palette paper as I have been trying out different papers, but they are very transparent when wet.
Vince Venturella thanks! That's what I thought. The Sta-Wet paper that I have tried doesn't seem to do the job, may I ask what paper you are using?
Sure, here is what I tried out. I like it okay, though I am not sure it's better than baking paper - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008PCGNWY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Silly question. What paper do you use for your wet pallet?
So for my Redgrass palette, I use the paper that they have as I really like it. That being said, Reynolds non-stick baking paper is a great substitute and works very well.
Vince Venturella thanks! When I use baking paper or parchment paper it keeps lifting and drying. I cannot seem to keep all of the paper down and wet. I’m sure I’ll figure it out eventually.
A great way to get a pretty striking result quickly. Seems like your camera was struggling to focus a little at times though.
Will you be at Warhammer fest this weekend?
Thank you for this great video!
Does retarder medium from Vallejo Need to be mixer with glaze medium/lahmian medium?
No, you can use it straight, but it's a gel retardent, so it's a little harder to mix into your paint. I usually use Liquitex or Warcolours, which are liquid retardent.
Hello Vince,
First, massive thanks for all the content you put out - you and James Wappel are among my favorite artists, both in personality and approach to painting.
Second, somewhat off-topic-ish, I have been using Zenithal Priming and that has helped my very-non-artistic brain understand how light disperses over a model, but one of the areas I struggle with is covering up the previously primed area with paint that is too opaque. My question is somewhat two-fold: Is there a type or brand of paint you tend to favor that pairs well with zenithal priming? I.e. paints that thin/glaze well similarly to your "Painting with Washes, Shades and Inks" video? I have been using Vallejo, but I am tempted to try Scale75/Warcolours if they are more suited to glazing over zenithal. I did pick up the Scale75 Inktensity Set, but I haven't employed them that much. Perhaps those would be a suitable application?
Are there instances where you simply have to basecoat over your zenithal priming and simply "remember" where the zenithal primed "sketch" was? Take the typical Generic Fantasy Figure, where you have a mix of skin tones and armor/fur/cloth; I haven't had much luck with flesh-colored glazes over the greyscale priming. What would you suggest to help maintain the "integrity" of the sketch priming, while still being able to achieve the flesh tones?
My "ideal" predominate painting style would be to apply thin almost-translucent coats over top of the undercoated model, and employ other techniques as needed.
Edit: Additional edit, congrats on the Golden Demon placement! That's awesome!
Sure, Scale 75 and Warcolours are better for thinning to glazes. Have you watched my tutorial on glazing? You should be able to use any brand of paint really. one of the keys is darker color paints, you don't want white in your paint, as that is naturally opaque.
Sure, there are some times where you lay down a new basecoat, but it's usually minimal. The most common is metal paints.
As to the flesh tones, you can aid yourself with an undertone (do it from below between the grey and the white) or purple or deep red). Then you should be able to do flesh with much more ease.
The real key is just thin your paints more. Ifyou are covering up your work, your paint is too thick. Glaze and Thinner medium can certainly help, especially with paints like Vallejo.
Alright, I might give Scale75/Warcolours a shot for fun in the future. Do you still prefer the Fantasy & Games line compared to the ScaleColor? I did pick up some Vallejo Glaze Medium recently to play with for now. I have watched a couple of your glazing videos, I just went back over your first hobby cheating, as well as some examples with some of the chaos guys. I think you mentioned you can use a white to basically "reset" for a highlight, which makes sense because white is opaque and is effectively becoming a new "reflective layer" for the transparent glaze layers, yeah?
Ok, so darker colors. Is there a short list, like flesh tones, that generally do not like to play well with the black/white undercoat? Guessing yellows, oranges, and pinks? What about browns and greens?
Metallics, check, that makes sense.
For the undertone, do you apply the undertone with the airbrush as well and just be careful, or do you apply with a brush? Let's say you have a figure who is wearing a hooded cloak. You want your base zenithal to be maintained, but want to undertone the face and/or hands: What is your preferred method to apply that purple/red undertone? If you already have a video that has demonstrated that, just point me to the number in case I missed it!
Thank you for your time and info!
can you make a video how to paint a green ork/goblin skin
I have, you can find it here - th-cam.com/video/QcnAyDGUA1E/w-d-xo.html&list=PLcdsbwBroEmD2fNEJhcju6PD7qRmoo04Y&index=108
Now, that is for bright, minty green ork skin. If you wanted more sallow traditional orcs, just add in ochre or deep yellow where I am using brighter near whites and you are good.
Hi again, Vince. I always hear you say that you can “fix” the airbrushed look with inks. How do you mean? Thanks in advance!
When you airbrush you get two effects, particulate "sprayed" look from lighter colors andthe micro particles and ultra smooth transitions. The latter is quite useful, the former gives it that "Airbrushed" look and it can be a dead give away. Inks can be used when thinned down over those transitions into lighter colors and their naturally liquid, so they look different and spread easier when the particles hit the surface, making a "smoother" surface and eroding that "particulate" look.
I still can't find those Warcolours anywhere
You can only get them direct.
Warcolours Links:
Full Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=71&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3
Base Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=113&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3
Layers Specialty Sets: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=55&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3
Starter Set (10 Paints + 2 Brushes): www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=121&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3
Transparent Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=73&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3
Metallic's Paint Set: www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=81&tracking=58f3b3f1be8a3
Great video!
Thank you sir, happy to help as always. :)
Great video Vince! I was watching the video and I was wondering... Can you use this technique to paint NMM? Because I really like the finish of non metallics but I hate the time it takes, bittersweet xD
I mean... For tabletop quality, nothing fancy but decent :)
Sure, this is how I start most of my NMM and then just refine from there.
@@VinceVenturella thank you for your answer and congrats for your Chibi's crystal brush!
Hey Vince. I think I've subscribed to you like 3 times and TH-cam keeps unsubbing me. Just FYI. Also you're awesome, nice work on that.
Curse you youtube! In all seriousness, I appreciate it and glad to have you along on the hobby journey.
It looks so easy. Sad part is that Ive come to realize that paint thinning is my nemesis. I just cant get it right for some reason.
It's a challenging thing. They key is to thin it down slowly, test and wick that excess off the brush.
Vince Venturella yeah it sounds so simple 😁. Been trying to get some nmm going but its the paint consistency that gets me. I even bought some vallejo retarder, which helps, but its still the consistency that's a pain. Working on it though. In time i may get there =p
great video! we could see what you do for a change :P
Thank you...I think. ;) - No, I understand, I think I am finally getting the camera settings figured out.
My small contribution (and my first wet blending attempt) on Tzeentch flamers: www.jammerjun.net/tartofig/2018/02/25/le-changement-cest-maintenant/
GW Sotek green -> GW Xereus purple -> Prince August (Vallejo) Magenta
Still have to tackle the big one on its charriot.
Very nice! Love the bright colors and the blends look great!
Dude, at least start with a clean palette so we can see what's what a bit clearer. Otherwise great video, cheers.
Sorry, I am very frugal and don't often change my wet palette paper.;) - I will keep it in mind for the video and glad it was helpful.