One of the most useful things I get from these videos is seeing how the car comes apart. It gives me confidence to tackle certain jobs! Thanks again Mike!
Lights!!! camera!!! action!!! It sounds like you are now a hollywood filmmaker Mike. And you have had a shave, you are getting well into this filming job now Mike. Great video, when I first did this job many years ago I took the bolts/hinges off the bulkhead and jacked the roof up with a bottle jack, and it still would not lift up enough, I wish that I had been shown this way first. Never mind thats life. Great video Mike, keep em coming. All the best from Yorkshire Rob.
I actually reckon it will be easier to do it with roof on so the surround is supported. Two man job with no roof on. Great videos keep up the good work
Hi Mike, do I need to remove the interior plastic panels to reach out the roof top screws? I removed the roof headliner now and can see the roof top screw from above. Do I need to counter the screws from below? Seems like the lower part of the screws are hiding behind the interior plastic panels? Do I need to counter/touch them from below? Or is the thread fixed and I can only untighten the nut from above? Best greetings from Germany!
@@BritannicaRestorations actually I‘m not sure how to send a picture an TH-cam or if it’s even possible. I mean, do I need to remove the whole plastic interior panel around the trunk sliding windows to remove the roof bolts? It seems like, that the half of the roof screws are covered behind the interior panel. Or can I just bend the panel, so that there is enough space to remove the bolts? Much greetings
Remove the rear quarters first they are held on with spring clips If you have side facing seats then you will have to remove them to release the side window plastic mouldings - these are held on with spring clips to the internal gutter on the roof insides
Hi Mike, I recently got my TD5 130's roof repainted and need to replace all the roof seals. Do you perhaps have a video that shows the positioning of the front roof to windscreen frame seals? Looks like the should be 4 seals (Inner, outer and corners), but can't seem to find the correct positions anywhere online. Another question is whether you think replacing these seals with Sikaflex/Betaseal type sealer would be a good idea? Love your videos and dry sense of humor!
Unfortunately, I do not have any videos on the roof seals - and I have no plans in the future for such a job, however if you replace the seals, and want to hold them in place or enhance their sealing properties, I recommend you use a seam sealer rather than a urethane, RTV or silicon sealer such as below (as an example) www.napacanada.com/en/p/DSS27501 Why? The seam sealers clean up very easily with white spirit, the others are a pain to get off paintwork and your hands!
Thank you for your videos sir. Question, I currently have my seat box and sill channels out to replace the door jam area that the sills and seat box bolt to. Of course it was rotted. Should I finish that job and reinstall the seat box and sills, then line it up and crank it down before loosening the roof and lifting it? That is my plan. I figure I’ll keep the body as true as possible before loosening the roof.
Re-attaching the hinges/windscreen brackets are so frustrating. I think the seal between the bulkhead and window expands or shifts and the holes do not line up. I found out by drilling a slightly bigger hole from the outside - in gives a bit more wiggle room!
Hi. If you are lifting the roof/windscreen, do you have to do anything with the wires/cables going into the roof (such as for the interior light) or are they long enough to cope as long as you do not lift it too high?
Mike, its probaby too late now but would be really hand to see how you go about fitting windscreen to roof reals? unless already covered, ill keep looking!
Britannica Restorations Ltd Thanks Mike, just ordered the 2 OEM seals to do the job, want to see you do it first before I fuck it up haha! Can’t believe the previous owner fitted the roof without putting either of those seals in 🤦🏻♂️
Hey Mike, hope you’re well there mate. Wondering if you could help me with the part number or if it’s even possible/worth to replace the locating pins/dowels for the windscreen (housing / body) on the bulkhead? One side of mine have completely rotted away. Cheers !
Hey mike for removing that sticky stuff like that you should try using citrus adhesive remover that stuff is amazing. Is there any chance in one of your videos you could show your porter power setup in more detail cheers
Great video. I need to do the same to my 110 model, and in addtion to fit a new seal, I'll also repair a little rust on the bulkhead top where the brackets are. Question is: How big a part of the roof do I have I have to loosen the bolts to make the window frame come free? Yours is a 90, it's quite some work to move all bolts in the roof on a 110 :-)
you will need to go back all the way. The spikes that go up into the screen are about 40mm. If you don't you will end up trying to banana the roof. You should try it on a 110 SW, you have to remove all the trim, to do that you have to pull the rear bench seats out too! that's just to access all the bolts. Just stripped all mine off as I'm doing a full rebuild
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
One of the most useful things I get from these videos is seeing how the car comes apart. It gives me confidence to tackle certain jobs! Thanks again Mike!
It's the 'putting back together' that is the skill!
Lol!
Mike
Just purchased my first defender 110 (93). Your videos are very helpful..for someone new to the auto
Glad to help
Lights!!! camera!!! action!!! It sounds like you are now a hollywood filmmaker Mike. And you have had a shave, you are getting well into this filming job now Mike. Great video, when I first did this job many years ago I took the bolts/hinges off the bulkhead and jacked the roof up with a bottle jack, and it still would not lift up enough, I wish that I had been shown this way first. Never mind thats life. Great video Mike, keep em coming. All the best from Yorkshire Rob.
I actually reckon it will be easier to do it with roof on so the surround is supported. Two man job with no roof on. Great videos keep up the good work
Thanks 👍
Hi Mike,
do I need to remove the interior plastic panels to reach out the roof top screws?
I removed the roof headliner now and can see the roof top screw from above.
Do I need to counter the screws from below? Seems like the lower part of the screws are hiding behind the interior plastic panels? Do I need to counter/touch them from below? Or is the thread fixed and I can only untighten the nut from above?
Best greetings from Germany!
can you send me a picture?
@@BritannicaRestorations actually I‘m not sure how to send a picture an TH-cam or if it’s even possible.
I mean, do I need to remove the whole plastic interior panel around the trunk sliding windows to remove the roof bolts?
It seems like, that the half of the roof screws are covered behind the interior panel. Or can I just bend the panel, so that there is enough space to remove the bolts?
Much greetings
Remove the rear quarters first they are held on with spring clips
If you have side facing seats then you will have to remove them to release the side window plastic mouldings - these are held on with spring clips to the internal gutter on the roof insides
As per usual - great tips and Ideas. Thanks
Hi Mike, I recently got my TD5 130's roof repainted and need to replace all the roof seals. Do you perhaps have a video that shows the positioning of the front roof to windscreen frame seals? Looks like the should be 4 seals (Inner, outer and corners), but can't seem to find the correct positions anywhere online. Another question is whether you think replacing these seals with Sikaflex/Betaseal type sealer would be a good idea? Love your videos and dry sense of humor!
Unfortunately, I do not have any videos on the roof seals - and I have no plans in the future for such a job, however if you replace the seals, and want to hold them in place or enhance their sealing properties, I recommend you use a seam sealer rather than a urethane, RTV or silicon sealer such as below (as an example)
www.napacanada.com/en/p/DSS27501
Why?
The seam sealers clean up very easily with white spirit, the others are a pain to get off paintwork and your hands!
@@BritannicaRestorationsthanks so much, appreciate your response!
Thank you for your videos sir. Question, I currently have my seat box and sill channels out to replace the door jam area that the sills and seat box bolt to. Of course it was rotted. Should I finish that job and reinstall the seat box and sills, then line it up and crank it down before loosening the roof and lifting it? That is my plan. I figure I’ll keep the body as true as possible before loosening the roof.
yes do the floor first
Re-attaching the hinges/windscreen brackets are so frustrating. I think the seal between the bulkhead and window expands or shifts and the holes do not line up. I found out by drilling a slightly bigger hole from the outside - in gives a bit more wiggle room!
Hi. If you are lifting the roof/windscreen, do you have to do anything with the wires/cables going into the roof (such as for the interior light) or are they long enough to cope as long as you do not lift it too high?
They are usually long enough
Mike, its probaby too late now but would be really hand to see how you go about fitting windscreen to roof reals? unless already covered, ill keep looking!
The roof seal was the original was caulked so i didn't disturb it - but I will be doing one soon
Britannica Restorations Ltd Thanks Mike, just ordered the 2 OEM seals to do the job, want to see you do it first before I fuck it up haha! Can’t believe the previous owner fitted the roof without putting either of those seals in 🤦🏻♂️
Hey Mike, hope you’re well there mate.
Wondering if you could help me with the part number or if it’s even possible/worth to replace the locating pins/dowels for the windscreen (housing / body) on the bulkhead?
One side of mine have completely rotted away. Cheers !
That's tricky - they are part of the bulkhead
Can you drill them out and fit captive nuts in, then make some pins out of SS bolts and use those?
What would you do if the dowels are rotted on the bulkhead?
Weld in replacements
My 1989 Ninety still got the clamp on the inside which should make the reassembly easier (I hope since that is a job for the coming summer).
Any chance of a video of how to replace the top seal between the roof and the screen?
I will put it on my list, but not on this vehicle
Mike
Second that, more than one seal to choose from?
Hi, do you know if you can do this with the windscreen in?
Yes - just be careful
Thanks, very useful info. What is the spray brand you use under the bracket? Available at Canadian Tire? NAPA? Auto sélect?...
I seem to recall it was fluid film
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks it is available everywhere...normally! It is non-essential, I will have to order it online.
How to do this with windscreen in place...?
Eucalyptus oil! Takes sticky stuff of easily. Smells good too.
Never seen it here, but you can use WD40 too
Today’s job!
Mike, who did you source the seals from?
These are OEM Britpart seals = quite good
Hey mike for removing that sticky stuff like that you should try using citrus adhesive remover that stuff is amazing. Is there any chance in one of your videos you could show your porter power setup in more detail cheers
WD 40 is good for removing sticky too
porta power info here
th-cam.com/video/VgqWVtVgYM8/w-d-xo.html
Mike
Great video. I need to do the same to my 110 model, and in addtion to fit a new seal, I'll also repair a little rust on the bulkhead top where the brackets are. Question is: How big a part of the roof do I have I have to loosen the bolts to make the window frame come free? Yours is a 90, it's quite some work to move all bolts in the roof on a 110 :-)
you will need to go back all the way. The spikes that go up into the screen are about 40mm. If you don't you will end up trying to banana the roof. You should try it on a 110 SW, you have to remove all the trim, to do that you have to pull the rear bench seats out too! that's just to access all the bolts. Just stripped all mine off as I'm doing a full rebuild