This is an indexable endmill with triangular inserts (even wrong one as it is for steel) from Accusize. You can find it on Amazon but you will need to turn down the shaft if you have the standard er20 collet.
Do you think that the the gantry with new balls would still benefit from having the new vertical stabilizers on it? Or do you think it's irrelevant to include them?
For my machine they were not necessary. They look cool but that is probably the biggest benefit they bring. There is more mass now close to the source of vibration so that could be a benefit that I just have not noticed yet. The Z plate is almost 1” (22mm) thick so I think some machines will benefit from the stiffener plates just on mine it is not really noticeable.
Certainly, it’s made by Accusize and sold on Amazon. It’s not great but gets the job done. Accusize Industrial Tools 3 Pc Little Hogger End Mill Set, 45 Deg, 90 Deg and 3/16r Mill with 3/4'' Shank, 1'' Head, 0046-0700 a.co/d/7D6wSWR
I had a similar gantry setup to yours with 2 6060 extrusions and 5mm back plate and noticed few issues, the biggest was and adjustment on one end would only fix move that side and both ends needed adjusting making it very difficult to adjust, I have since added a 3060 extrusion in between connected to the backplate and right angle brackets to top and bottom and it is a lot better! Still have enough clearance for ball-screw too.
@@JBWorx sorry I will post a video it will make a lot more sense, especially seeming the 6060 is the extrusion size (60mm x 60mm) not to be confused with 6060 aluminium
I think I got it now. Yes correct I can move one side slightly and the other will not move. That is ok and might also depend on the length of the gantry. The squaring is done via the software on my machine hence the importance of accurate home sensors. Making a gantry from granite is rather interesting I think. Pretty much eliminates most movement.
Nice, I know it takes more time, but I like to do a 2 degree ramped finishing pass with light mist coolant and I always get a mirror finish even on the tallest sidewalls. Even if your flutes aren't as long as your part is tall, the mist coolent eliminates the issues of potential rubbing. Have had success even with 1.5in stick out on a 1/4" endmill. Roughing pass inaccuracy disappearing during the ramping skim pass is ultra satisfying.
I think the adaptive clearing creates tool marks on curved contours that need a little bit more material removal than what I usually do for a finish pass. I now do 2 passes the first one with 0.1mm and the second one with 0.03mm. Comes out great. I will try your method next time thx for the response!
@@JBWorx correct, also on the finishing pass, it helps immensely to mess with the tolerance and smoothing options in my experience. Makes those curves on external radius super smooth
@@Nordic_Goon yes !! I have the same experience. My post processor is also asking for a tolerance / smoothing in addition to fusion and I am not sure yet how that works (in addition to or instead of). I have played with these values and if set too high it introduces a “studder” on every curve or radius. I also try to “force arc” instead of all the x/y coordinates that will slow the machine down on a radius or following a spline.
Unfortunately I overlooked this comment but like to add that is is exactly my experience as well. A radius or curve especially if created using the spine command can introduce a ton of g-code lines that will slow the processor down and introduce a stop and go. The tolerance and smoothing are essential to avoid this.
Adding a second spindle mounting clamp would go a long way in reducing the runout, specifically in relation to the spindle. That's why, in the previous video, you had two runout readings. One was pure gantry, the other was the combination of gantry and spindle.
It actually is painters tape the “scotch” brand made by 3M. I use the green version for rough surfaces and increased strength. There is also an orange color one with high holding power I use that as well. I can really recommend that type of work holding for plate work or even smaller parts where you need access to the entire perimeter. I really like it and use it a lot.
Nice setup, it looks like a very similar setup to my machine, have you seen it perhaps? I get some deflection from the twin extrusion gantry and have considered filling the extrusions to improve stiffness but it works well for what I do currently so have not bothered.
Hi Jeremy, yes very similar designs. I am thinking to replace my gantry with one beam instead of 2 separate pieces. And then also machine the mounting surfaces or level them with epoxy or add some steel underpayment that gets machined. I have completed the re-balling of one side of the HIWIN linear guides on the y-axis and it made a nice improvement. I totally agree mine works also for my use very well and it is about 6 years old so I am happy what I have accomplished with it. I guess at the moment a got bitten by the accuracy bug 😆
Here's a tip to remove mill marks on surfaces where the dimension isn't critical. Draw file the surface using a mill bastard file. No one but you will ever know the hand finishing of the surface was performed.
Great channel im learning alot from You. Just an observation but at 2:20 that finish pass You are taking there. That tool has alot of unnecessary stickout there that can be resuce by at least 20mm and will great help rigidity and that finish. Keep up the awesome work. Really enjoying your channel.
use wax from candles on the blade when cutting alu ;) Also, put the endmill as far up as you can get it before it touches flutes, the less stickout, the better :) Thats why you use short tools on shallow parts
Yes 😀, well the parts are all a “one of” and the design as well as the tolerance and the dimension cut by the machine have to fit. So far I am lucky lol 😆
With such a low portal, it makes sense to fasten the rails firmly to the cross plate. And the carriages then movable on the Z plate. As a result, you don't have the problem that the clamped tool robs you of the portal passage. BDW. The spindle motor should not be affixed in the bearing area. It is better to place the mounting block in the middle. For this reason alone, the Z-axis variant shown in the video should not be selected.
Thanks for your comment. I do not try to advocate the design of my machine I think it has many flaws and things I would change today building it again. However making one mount in the center of the spindle would defiantly not be one of them. I would capture the spindle on both bearing locations instead of using the spindle body to transmit the force to the mounting point. Also having a long stick out to the tool that you are suggesting can’t be good for vibration dampening.
@@JBWorx The manufacturer states that the mounting points should not be in the area of the bearings. Some even have markings on the spindle. Basically, my comments were intended for the general public. So for those who still want to build their own
Yes because any precision or high rpm bearing needs a determined “play” between the race and the rolling element (a ball for example) to function properly. Excessive clamping force at the bearing point is the concern of the manufacturer. I do not think that any aluminum mount can exert such clamping pressure. But hey that’s me … thank you for pointing it out.
when you pull your gantry it's movement stopped by ballscrews only. amount of give you measured just can't be from wear in linear blocks ) if they are worn it will be only 0.01-0.015mm of play in them. just put an indicator on a face of ballscrew nut and load your gantry back and forth. i bet you will see something. (it will be sum of play in a nut and in fixed side bearings. and all of them are not a preloaded ones i suppose)
You are exactly right in your thought process so I blocked the gantry with a piece of steel in front of the guide to eliminate A) any play in the fixed bearing and B) any play in the ball screw. A small amount of movement in the ball track is amplified by the length of arm to the top of the gantry. I have one set of balls on hand to complete one side of the gantry this week. I am very curious to see the result.
@@JBWorx also you can do one more test. you measured only overall deflection but machine consists of 3 joints so it will be more informative to check them separately (if you doesn't done this already). i mean isolated measurements to spot the problem. 1 between table and a top of gantry side plate to see actual play caused by bearing blocks. 2 between side plate and center of a beams to see flex 3 between center of a beam and spindle nose to check z assembly P.S. you can do little improvements just endlessly but at some point you came to a state when all done wright but you still have some give under static load and 0.01-0.02 repeatability error. at the end it's just a home built aluminium gantry mill. you can't ask a VMC precision from it )
I had to smile at your last sentence. Yes so true .. but I was a bit bummed out finding initially 1.7mm with only 200N applied to the spindle. I just could not comprehend that. So I have done exactly what you suggested above and that is how I found the gantry moving. I then had the bearing as suspect and blockt the gantry just to find out that the movement at the blocking point was Zero and the side plate further up was 0.08mm. I also did the measurement of the gantry to the spindle … there is still quite a lot of movement there relative to each other as well. I have not found that cause yet … but making the Z-Axis plate stiffer was not it 😆. Thank you for engaging and leaving me a comment.
Thinking about getting a cnc router for some projects I want to make and have learned alot from your videos. Thanks. From San Antonio, Texas!
Thanks for your feedback. Went to San Antonio last winter … crazy ice storm went trough.
nice work . what endmill is that doing the facing pass @ 1:32?
This is an indexable endmill with triangular inserts (even wrong one as it is for steel) from Accusize. You can find it on Amazon but you will need to turn down the shaft if you have the standard er20 collet.
Do you think that the the gantry with new balls would still benefit from having the new vertical stabilizers on it? Or do you think it's irrelevant to include them?
For my machine they were not necessary. They look cool but that is probably the biggest benefit they bring. There is more mass now close to the source of vibration so that could be a benefit that I just have not noticed yet. The Z plate is almost 1” (22mm) thick so I think some machines will benefit from the stiffener plates just on mine it is not really noticeable.
Nice videos, what is the tool that you use to do the facing operation? Can you perhaps send me a link
Certainly, it’s made by Accusize and sold on Amazon. It’s not great but gets the job done.
Accusize Industrial Tools 3 Pc Little Hogger End Mill Set, 45 Deg, 90 Deg and 3/16r Mill with 3/4'' Shank, 1'' Head, 0046-0700 a.co/d/7D6wSWR
I had a similar gantry setup to yours with 2 6060 extrusions and 5mm back plate and noticed few issues, the biggest was and adjustment on one end would only fix move that side and both ends needed adjusting making it very difficult to adjust, I have since added a 3060 extrusion in between connected to the backplate and right angle brackets to top and bottom and it is a lot better! Still have enough clearance for ball-screw too.
Hmmm I read this twice but I am not sure I understand how you improved your machine. Try one more time please …
@@JBWorx sorry I will post a video it will make a lot more sense, especially seeming the 6060 is the extrusion size (60mm x 60mm) not to be confused with 6060 aluminium
I think I got it now. Yes correct I can move one side slightly and the other will not move. That is ok and might also depend on the length of the gantry. The squaring is done via the software on my machine hence the importance of accurate home sensors. Making a gantry from granite is rather interesting I think. Pretty much eliminates most movement.
Nice, I know it takes more time, but I like to do a 2 degree ramped finishing pass with light mist coolant and I always get a mirror finish even on the tallest sidewalls. Even if your flutes aren't as long as your part is tall, the mist coolent eliminates the issues of potential rubbing. Have had success even with 1.5in stick out on a 1/4" endmill. Roughing pass inaccuracy disappearing during the ramping skim pass is ultra satisfying.
I think the adaptive clearing creates tool marks on curved contours that need a little bit more material removal than what I usually do for a finish pass. I now do 2 passes the first one with 0.1mm and the second one with 0.03mm. Comes out great. I will try your method next time thx for the response!
@@JBWorx correct, also on the finishing pass, it helps immensely to mess with the tolerance and smoothing options in my experience. Makes those curves on external radius super smooth
@@Nordic_Goon yes !! I have the same experience. My post processor is also asking for a tolerance / smoothing in addition to fusion and I am not sure yet how that works (in addition to or instead of). I have played with these values and if set too high it introduces a “studder” on every curve or radius. I also try to “force arc” instead of all the x/y coordinates that will slow the machine down on a radius or following a spline.
Unfortunately I overlooked this comment but like to add that is is exactly my experience as well. A radius or curve especially if created using the spine command can introduce a ton of g-code lines that will slow the processor down and introduce a stop and go. The tolerance and smoothing are essential to avoid this.
Wow really amazing work... Impressive.. great content
Thank you 🙏
Adding a second spindle mounting clamp would go a long way in reducing the runout, specifically in relation to the spindle. That's why, in the previous video, you had two runout readings. One was pure gantry, the other was the combination of gantry and spindle.
Yes, I think installing the second mount did help quite a bit especially on larger diameter end mills.
I like the music😉
Thank you Heike
what kind of double sided tape were you using to hold that part?
It actually is painters tape the “scotch” brand made by 3M. I use the green version for rough surfaces and increased strength. There is also an orange color one with high holding power I use that as well. I can really recommend that type of work holding for plate work or even smaller parts where you need access to the entire perimeter. I really like it and use it a lot.
Nice setup, it looks like a very similar setup to my machine, have you seen it perhaps? I get some deflection from the twin extrusion gantry and have considered filling the extrusions to improve stiffness but it works well for what I do currently so have not bothered.
Hi Jeremy, yes very similar designs. I am thinking to replace my gantry with one beam instead of 2 separate pieces. And then also machine the mounting surfaces or level them with epoxy or add some steel underpayment that gets machined. I have completed the re-balling of one side of the HIWIN linear guides on the y-axis and it made a nice improvement. I totally agree mine works also for my use very well and it is about 6 years old so I am happy what I have accomplished with it. I guess at the moment a got bitten by the accuracy bug 😆
Here's a tip to remove mill marks on surfaces where the dimension isn't critical. Draw file the surface using a mill bastard file. No one but you will ever know the hand finishing of the surface was performed.
Excellent, have to Google that type of file.
Where do you get your material ?
Most of it from onlinemetals
Wow 37$ per kg that's crazy expensive !
@@maximelinka2445 Yes and I also like the tooling plate stuff that is even higher
Great channel im learning alot from You. Just an observation but at 2:20 that finish pass You are taking there. That tool has alot of unnecessary stickout there that can be resuce by at least 20mm and will great help rigidity and that finish. Keep up the awesome work. Really enjoying your channel.
You are totally correct. Thanks for your comment.
use wax from candles on the blade when cutting alu ;)
Also, put the endmill as far up as you can get it before it touches flutes, the less stickout, the better :) Thats why you use short tools on shallow parts
Totally agree yes the YG1 could have been further in the collet
What is the name of this cnc router
It is my build, I bought a kit many years ago and then upgraded it to what you see here today. Unfortunately that original kit is no longer available.
Haha. He always says he doesn't know if it's going to fit. But it always does.
Yes 😀, well the parts are all a “one of” and the design as well as the tolerance and the dimension cut by the machine have to fit. So far I am lucky lol 😆
With such a low portal, it makes sense to fasten the rails firmly to the cross plate. And the carriages then movable on the Z plate.
As a result, you don't have the problem that the clamped tool robs you of the portal passage.
BDW. The spindle motor should not be affixed in the bearing area. It is better to place the mounting block in the middle. For this reason alone, the Z-axis variant shown in the video should not be selected.
Thanks for your comment. I do not try to advocate the design of my machine I think it has many flaws and things I would change today building it again. However making one mount in the center of the spindle would defiantly not be one of them. I would capture the spindle on both bearing locations instead of using the spindle body to transmit the force to the mounting point. Also having a long stick out to the tool that you are suggesting can’t be good for vibration dampening.
@@JBWorx The manufacturer states that the mounting points should not be in the area of the bearings. Some even have markings on the spindle.
Basically, my comments were intended for the general public. So for those who still want to build their own
Yes because any precision or high rpm bearing needs a determined “play” between the race and the rolling element (a ball for example) to function properly. Excessive clamping force at the bearing point is the concern of the manufacturer. I do not think that any aluminum mount can exert such clamping pressure. But hey that’s me … thank you for pointing it out.
However YES! Always follow the manufacturers recommendations for your spindle and how to mount it.
when you pull your gantry it's movement stopped by ballscrews only. amount of give you measured just can't be from wear in linear blocks ) if they are worn it will be only 0.01-0.015mm of play in them.
just put an indicator on a face of ballscrew nut and load your gantry back and forth. i bet you will see something.
(it will be sum of play in a nut and in fixed side bearings. and all of them are not a preloaded ones i suppose)
You are exactly right in your thought process so I blocked the gantry with a piece of steel in front of the guide to eliminate A) any play in the fixed bearing and B) any play in the ball screw. A small amount of movement in the ball track is amplified by the length of arm to the top of the gantry. I have one set of balls on hand to complete one side of the gantry this week. I am very curious to see the result.
@@JBWorx also you can do one more test. you measured only overall deflection but machine consists of 3 joints so it will be more informative to check them separately (if you doesn't done this already). i mean isolated measurements to spot the problem.
1 between table and a top of gantry side plate to see actual play caused by bearing blocks.
2 between side plate and center of a beams to see flex
3 between center of a beam and spindle nose to check z assembly
P.S. you can do little improvements just endlessly but at some point you came to a state when all done wright but you still have some give under static load and 0.01-0.02 repeatability error.
at the end it's just a home built aluminium gantry mill. you can't ask a VMC precision from it )
I had to smile at your last sentence. Yes so true .. but I was a bit bummed out finding initially 1.7mm with only 200N applied to the spindle. I just could not comprehend that. So I have done exactly what you suggested above and that is how I found the gantry moving. I then had the bearing as suspect and blockt the gantry just to find out that the movement at the blocking point was Zero and the side plate further up was 0.08mm. I also did the measurement of the gantry to the spindle … there is still quite a lot of movement there relative to each other as well. I have not found that cause yet … but making the Z-Axis plate stiffer was not it 😆. Thank you for engaging and leaving me a comment.
hi you not gain much from that mod, becouse your x axis looks really weak. and it def flex more than your z.
Ok 👌