DIY is not always the best option, you have decided it wisely! I liked a lot the structural aluminum using the T nuts as the base. It gives lightness and adjustability qualities that I never thought before. Great job Peter!
you can add a normally closed relay on a pair of stepper leads (one side) and when the relay loses power (shutdown, estop), the relay will short the two leads and will prevent drop. in normal operation, the relay is held open and the two leads are not shorted. You can observe this by just connecting one set of leads together (at the bench) and try to turn the stepper by hand, much more difficult. The 'detent' you refer too is much firmer. Cheers
Fortunately braking will not be needed. I would be wary of using this method as on some drives it could blow the output driver stage it the relay jams or is slow to open. Some are also damaged it the motor is disconnected or reconnected while there is still power on them. Cheers Peter
Hi Peter - I bought the exact same Z axis for my own CNC, and I'm curious about your stepper motor size and power, settings, etc. I'm about to order a NEMA23 motor for mine and wondering if 1Nm or 2Nm is enough for a similar 2.2kW spindle.
I too am upgrading, actually replacing all but the stepper motors of my old cnc. I bought the same Z axis. The coupler I got fits well. However there's a problem with the ballscrew bending by the ballnut assembly. I've taken out the ball screw and found the bend within 10um. I've shimmed the ballnut to axis plate mounting point. It seems a little better. Was yours aligned well? I've also found some chips under the linear rails. After cleaning and realiging the rails accuracy improved quite a bit.
@@cncnutz good to hear! I've ordered more for x (700mm) and two for y axes (1500mm). The x axis used bolts for thege rails that were too long (18mm), hitting the bottom of the extrusion with a clear mark, lifting the rail up 0.1mm. after replacing them all, accuracy was much better, within about 0.02mm. I've also replaced the twist inserts with ones with a ball spring with a larger surface which won't bend the extrusion as much when tightening. The two y axes haven't been cleaned and checked yet.
I see a potential limitation with your Z axis travel. Was it intentional to install the axis the way you did. The main Z axis rail assemble does not move which will limit the height of the material you can put under the machine. All the travel height you have on the z axis is mostly unusable. You Z axis rail assemble should be flipped 180deg so the square plate you attached your spindle too is attached to the X axis plate and the spindle mount is attached to the long plate currently at the back. This will allow the Z axis rail to move up and down with the spindle and allow greater clearance for your work area. Hope that made sense.
Peter, that's a good point... If you swap the plate that holds the linear bearings for the X axis and the plate that holds the spindle, you can make all the Z axis to move up and down, clearing up all the space below the X gantry. Correct me if there will be any issues doing that (weight maybe?), Because I am planning to build my CNC using this idea! TY a lot!
Nice to hear from you John, I actually can get a bit more out of it now that I see it together. With the setup I have I don't think turning the Z axis around would get me much advantage but I know what you mean. I will have to see once it is finished. Cheers Peter
Hey Peter. How is your pre-build Z-axis treating you? I am in the process of designing and building my own CNC machine, but I got really tempted to buy one of these pre-build ones. Did you find any problems with it, such as bad bearing balls etc? Do I have to wait for part 4?... ;) Cheers from Denmark.
I would have to say the bearings are not the best you could get. I had to adjust the ball screw as it was binding a little and the bearings have no grease ports because they will hit the ends. The side grease ports look to be dummy ones on this bearing but I know you can grease genuine Hiwins from the side. This is my first look at linear slides so I am learning as I go. I can always upgrade them later on as I learn.
@@cncnutz I hope it works out for you in the end. I remember seeing a video on TH-cam about refitting linear rail carts with new bearing balls, after cleaning and flushing the carts for dirt and metal shaving etc. He also talked about the improvements he got frosh simply cleaning the carts and re-lube them. If everything else fails, I guess you can always buy genuine Hiwin rails and carts from a Chinese supplier. You can spot them on the price... ;) Cheers from Denmark. PS. Check for radial bearing in the ball screw fixture. It might give some extra precision to the z-axis.
Hi Pete. I've been thinking about upgrading my own cnc for a while. Where did you purchase your Z axis from and can I support your channel through affiliate links?
Thanks Dust Bunny. I do not have an affiliated link and I'm happy just to know that people watch. I wasn't going to post where I got everything but I think I will now as I have received quite a few requests. Probably not until part 6 though. Cheers Peter
Great looking Z axis. I've been running a 2.2kw Chinese spindle and noticed a little noise every once and awhile as well. I too am anxious to tear it down to investigate. Where did you source your new spindle? Enjoy watching your channel.
Good morning, Peter. I am at the same stage on my build and was debating whether to build or to buy. Can you point me to where you found your Z-Axis? Looks like a good quality unit! Thanks and have a great day!!
@@cncnutz Thanks again Peter. Your videos and especially your willingness to help are always very much appreciated. Hoping my upgrades will greatly reduce the twisting of my gantry beam that I have been experiencing on my first build. Watching the spindle bounce around at certain points during a movement has pretty disconcerting. Have a good one!
Hose clamps? Holy Hanna Pete! That's more than a little off putting. In many designs the un-driven end of the Z axis ball screw is left to hang in mid air off the bearing support. It gets "rigidity" from the ball nut. There is no chance for ball screw whip action because of its minimal length. You may reposition the fixed bearing support - (ie BK12 for a 16mm ball screw) and set it where you wish to get proper bite on a proper coupler. You have come this far......
I know what you are saying but I prefer to have maximum support for the screw and I like to use tried and tested methods of connecting the screw to the motor. Cheers Peter
That Z axis looks like it's built like a tank! Very nice upgrade, Peter!
Thanks Mark
DIY is not always the best option, you have decided it wisely!
I liked a lot the structural aluminum using the T nuts as the base. It gives lightness and adjustability qualities that I never thought before.
Great job Peter!
Thanks Eddie
Looking good Peter. I've enjoyed your upgrade series. Well done.
Thanks Dave
Great series Peter! I have enjoyed it immensely & learned a few things. Thank you!
Thanks David
That new gantry and z axis assembly is gorgeous Peter 🤤
Thanks Malcolm
The upgrades that you made are awesome
Thanks
that is looking very good so far
Thanks Staf
you can add a normally closed relay on a pair of stepper leads (one side) and when the relay loses power (shutdown, estop), the relay will short the two leads and will prevent drop. in normal operation, the relay is held open and the two leads are not shorted. You can observe this by just connecting one set of leads together (at the bench) and try to turn the stepper by hand, much more difficult. The 'detent' you refer too is much firmer. Cheers
Fortunately braking will not be needed. I would be wary of using this method as on some drives it could blow the output driver stage it the relay jams or is slow to open. Some are also damaged it the motor is disconnected or reconnected while there is still power on them.
Cheers Peter
Good job done carn`t wait for next video
Thanks David
May I know the length of the effective stroke of the new z axis?
Hi Peter - I bought the exact same Z axis for my own CNC, and I'm curious about your stepper motor size and power, settings, etc. I'm about to order a NEMA23 motor for mine and wondering if 1Nm or 2Nm is enough for a similar 2.2kW spindle.
Peter that is a piece of art my friend! Can you post a purchasing link??? Thank you
I too am upgrading, actually replacing all but the stepper motors of my old cnc. I bought the same Z axis. The coupler I got fits well. However there's a problem with the ballscrew bending by the ballnut assembly. I've taken out the ball screw and found the bend within 10um. I've shimmed the ballnut to axis plate mounting point. It seems a little better. Was yours aligned well? I've also found some chips under the linear rails. After cleaning and realiging the rails accuracy improved quite a bit.
I did reduced the tension in the lock nut as it was a bit too tight but other than that it was OK.
Cheers Peter
@@cncnutz good to hear! I've ordered more for x (700mm) and two for y axes (1500mm). The x axis used bolts for thege rails that were too long (18mm), hitting the bottom of the extrusion with a clear mark, lifting the rail up 0.1mm. after replacing them all, accuracy was much better, within about 0.02mm. I've also replaced the twist inserts with ones with a ball spring with a larger surface which won't bend the extrusion as much when tightening. The two y axes haven't been cleaned and checked yet.
Peter very informative video, thanks. What is the new spindle you bought? Looks to be air-cooled.
2.2Kw Air cooled like the old one. This time with ceramic bearings.
Cheers Peter
@@cncnutz Can you share where you purchased it please, Peter?
Where did you get the aluminum extrusion for the z axis? I'm building a machine and would like to try that for my z
Z axis aluminium thickness ??
Yea old lathe peter does the job !
It sure does.
The first thing I did when I got it was turn a new main shaft as the original one was beyond saving.
Cheers Peter
Where did you purchase it from?
Was referring to the z axis. Thank you.
Ali Express
@@cncnutz Thanks for your reply
Pedro buen trabajo por favor me podrías compartir que espesor y medidas tiene el eje z
Perhaps a stepper or servo motor with an electric brake for the Z axis. They can only move if the brake has power.
I priced a brake and it cost more than the Z Axis. Fortunately I don't need to worry about it.
Cheers Peter
Looks good
I see a potential limitation with your Z axis travel. Was it intentional to install the axis the way you did. The main Z axis rail assemble does not move which will limit the height of the material you can put under the machine. All the travel height you have on the z axis is mostly unusable. You Z axis rail assemble should be flipped 180deg so the square plate you attached your spindle too is attached to the X axis plate and the spindle mount is attached to the long plate currently at the back. This will allow the Z axis rail to move up and down with the spindle and allow greater clearance for your work area. Hope that made sense.
Peter, that's a good point... If you swap the plate that holds the linear bearings for the X axis and the plate that holds the spindle, you can make all the Z axis to move up and down, clearing up all the space below the X gantry.
Correct me if there will be any issues doing that (weight maybe?), Because I am planning to build my CNC using this idea!
TY a lot!
Nice to hear from you John,
I actually can get a bit more out of it now that I see it together. With the setup I have I don't think turning the Z axis around would get me much advantage but I know what you mean.
I will have to see once it is finished.
Cheers Peter
Hey Peter. How is your pre-build Z-axis treating you? I am in the process of designing and building my own CNC machine, but I got really tempted to buy one of these pre-build ones.
Did you find any problems with it, such as bad bearing balls etc? Do I have to wait for part 4?... ;)
Cheers from Denmark.
I would have to say the bearings are not the best you could get. I had to adjust the ball screw as it was binding a little and the bearings have no grease ports because they will hit the ends. The side grease ports look to be dummy ones on this bearing but I know you can grease genuine Hiwins from the side. This is my first look at linear slides so I am learning as I go. I can always upgrade them later on as I learn.
@@cncnutz I hope it works out for you in the end.
I remember seeing a video on TH-cam about refitting linear rail carts with new bearing balls, after cleaning and flushing the carts for dirt and metal shaving etc.
He also talked about the improvements he got frosh simply cleaning the carts and re-lube them.
If everything else fails, I guess you can always buy genuine Hiwin rails and carts from a Chinese supplier. You can spot them on the price... ;)
Cheers from Denmark.
PS. Check for radial bearing in the ball screw fixture. It might give some extra precision to the z-axis.
@@cncnutz I believe it was this guy:
th-cam.com/video/loBHYcifzRM/w-d-xo.html
Note the time stamp.
Hello sir
Colud you help me ? we have all components but we installing a mach3 motors don't work may be configuring problem.
Hi Pete. I've been thinking about upgrading my own cnc for a while. Where did you purchase your Z axis from and can I support your channel through affiliate links?
Thanks Dust Bunny.
I do not have an affiliated link and I'm happy just to know that people watch. I wasn't going to post where I got everything but I think I will now as I have received quite a few requests. Probably not until part 6 though.
Cheers Peter
Great looking Z axis. I've been running a 2.2kw Chinese spindle and noticed a little noise every once and awhile as well. I too am anxious to tear it down to investigate. Where did you source your new spindle? Enjoy watching your channel.
I purchased mine on Ali Express
Cheers Peter
Good morning, Peter. I am at the same stage on my build and was debating whether to build or to buy. Can you point me to where you found your Z-Axis? Looks like a good quality unit! Thanks and have a great day!!
Have a look on Ali Express. They have a whole range of ready made Z axis
@@cncnutz Thanks again Peter. Your videos and especially your willingness to help are always very much appreciated. Hoping my upgrades will greatly reduce the twisting of my gantry beam that I have been experiencing on my first build. Watching the spindle bounce around at certain points during a movement has pretty disconcerting.
Have a good one!
When you're finished i would love to see you test it's stability up against a dial gauge. I don't think the resultes will supperise me.
I really hope it surprises me too.
Cheers Peter
Hose clamps? Holy Hanna Pete! That's more than a little off putting.
In many designs the un-driven end of the Z axis ball screw is left to hang in mid air off the bearing support.
It gets "rigidity" from the ball nut. There is no chance for ball screw whip action because of its minimal length.
You may reposition the fixed bearing support - (ie BK12 for a 16mm ball screw) and set it where you wish to get proper bite on a proper coupler.
You have come this far......
I know what you are saying but I prefer to have maximum support for the screw and I like to use tried and tested methods of connecting the screw to the motor.
Cheers Peter