Most cars and trucks gas tanks, have some safety space from the bottom to the inlet, so gunk, gel, and water can accumulate and be spotted on the bottom, before it reaches the sensitive systems. And a drain plug at the very bottom, to get rid of those accumulations. Thanks for your video!! Kudos for a Very neat and clean workshop!!
Wow! This video is over 2 years old, and it helped me 100%! My CDH is due in a couple of days, and of all the video's I've seen, yours is the best at helping me with what I need to do BEFORE I install mine! CHEERS from across the pond!
HVAC installer since 1986 here. Safety tip for those who are mechanically able - I pressure test all my diesel heaters before installing them with a dewalt vaccum/blower (not a leaf blower) or similar to check for possible leaks by pressurizing the combustion chamber similar to pressurizing a 2 stroke engine when doing a leak test. Block or plug the exhaust port and blow into the intake port. Use soapy water around every gasket and seal on the unit. You'd be surprised! Every one of these I have bought, brand new, has leaks, everywhere! I disassemble and reassemble using high temp rtv on both sides of gaskets and around all rubber fittings and tubes, let it set up overnight and re-test by pressurizing with low pressure, gently. The only place that cannot be sealed is the fan motor shaft near the bearings but is in a negative pressure zone and shouldn't be much of a concern. I am extremely, overly sensitive to gases, vapors and smells of any kind and they make me sick. Even though a CO detector can show a zero reading, the exhaust is still bad for you if it enters the living area. I also vent the breather hole on the fuel cap to the outside (if unit is mounted indoors) with a piece of tubing and a barbed fitting screwed into the cap as I found that it puffs fumes at the same rate as the ump pulsates. I guarantee all of these have leaks, even when new out of the box and the leaking fumes can be then brought inside with the heated air. Safety first. :)
This is the best comment I've seen on any video or article related to these heaters. Having mechanical experience I assumed these cheap chinese heaters must have some flaws people have been glossing over... Thanks!
@@Mountain-Man-3000 Thanks, much appreciated. I've recently found another leak that MUST be addressed. I may make a video about it at some point... the flange of the motor mount, recessed area, where it connects to the housing and screw holes must be sealed with RTV by prying off the impeller and removing the screws that hold the parts together. Seal both sides and around the motor shaft. It will still spin freely after it cures overnight, just spin it by hand to free it before re-assembling. I figured this out the hard way as I woke up with a headache one morning and my air quality sensor had very high readings.
Thanks for your information, my heater is around 2 weeks old , must be up dated as the screws from control unit are shorter. Yes screen is difficult to read so I’ve mounted off the unit pipes are harder now , but priming program was slightly different . But mounting the pump different got my heater working many thanks 👍🏻
Excellent video, thanks. The reason the tank outlet is not at the bottom of the tank is to allow sediment or debris to settle without being sucked out and into the engine.
Hey bought one to for my little man cave. I followed everything from your idea . Everything works great. Thank you very much. Sir. Hey TH-cam we need more people like him or her. Take my friend from Ontario Canada 🇨🇦.
I drive long haul truck on the other side of the pond. My old truck had one of those heaters. Hearing yours fire up brought back memories. Mines was a Webasto and when it fired up the thing sounded like a jet engine. When they work they are the best heat source out there. Love the video thanks for posting. I'm actually looking to get one for my shop and that's how I found your video.
Yes that brings back so many good memories back in the day tramping around England overnight stays and a nice warm Kip at night. No sat nav just the MK1 map book. 👍
1.8 gigahertz Oh yes you are very reliably informed . Also there is no pressure in the fuel line . The pump pushes the fuel at the rate you set but there is no *high* pressure in the fuel line .The only important thing in changing the fuel line is the build quality .As other have said keep the fuel pump at 30° pumping upwards to avoid air pockets . nice setup you have
You are the one that has a grip on the fuel delivery. Why does everyone think this is an injection system when it is a precise drip feed no squirt to it. The only problem with the green line is it isn't UV rated and it kinks easy if not ran right. Oh and it isn't very good with heat 😁
the green tubes issues are not limited to easily kinking , which is indeed one reason NOT to use these tubes . They also are not resilient to the small vacuum of each pump cycle and are significantly more prone to airlocks ...like this guy says junk the green tubes and get the rigid nylon
I bought one of these diesel heaters. I took your advice and I changed the fuel lines and put a filter in. I used some 2mm fuel line to cap them nasty sharp screws off. What a fantastic machine especially the new model with better screen. Best £90 I've ever spent. The pump on the unit is pretty annoying but I can always mount the unit outside the shed in a little box. They throw out some lovely heat 🔥. Going to see if it runs on old vegetables oil. I've heard it will run on any oil. Great video thanks. Dean 🇬🇧
@@paulb8186 I use mine with used motor oil cut with diesel. I find it takes forever to start up and get hot. That said, I am going to adjust my ratio of diesel to oil and see what happens. Veg oil has a lower flash point then motor oil i believe, so it should burn it just fine. I would certainly cut it with diesel tho.
Nicely done. Very clear, concise and lively. These inexpensive little heaters solve some problems for us all. These fixes should make them much more reliable!
I have just bought one my friend, (8kw) in black (25th Sept) and they have upgraded the LED screen with a square double sided sticky pad, I also noticed the pump was upside down (looking at your video) where you connect the plug to it was facing up, so I will face mine down like you have done, also the fuel pipe is all the hard plastic and not the green soft tube, there is no filter so I am waiting for that to come, along with an ultra quiet pump, spare glow plug and some small Juberlee clips, I did find a lot of the screws etc were not very tight, so fixed that as well, I am going to have to cut the fuel line near the tank to fit the filter in, then fingers crossed, should be good to go. Thanks for all your information that you have given us. (I have subscribed to your channelas well )
As some people already explained, the pump has to be in an angle. Also not upside down because air can now be trapped. The outlet of the tank always must be a bit above the bottom for water and debris to settle.
I just ordered one of these in Christchurch NZ, and THEN looked up about reliability. Priorities right. Thanks to this video, it's all good again. Easy fixed. I believe the kit forms of this machine are bought by the Czechosolvakian army, so they must be pretty good. Anyway, thanks for this video, good old fashioned, layman, thorough explanations, advice and detail. Stopped me having another breakdown :)
I also watched the complete series that you refered to. (Great series too) One point that I think you might have missed is that the outlet of the pump needs to be pointed in the UP position. He said something about the bubbles being normal and an actuall need for them was an important part of operation.
Very informative video and your timing is perfect as I am starting to look into this as an alternative to expensive fan heaters. As I think others have mentioned the tank outlet is to allow debris to settle in the bottom of the tank and not get sucked into the pump. Car fuel tanks work in exactly the same way. You have a new subscriber. 🙂
I always like to see people improving things make a cheap stuff perform better. Don’t condemn it Chinese/ German Italian or whatever cheap or crap just show the world what you can do to make it better. Thanks for sharing bro you are awesome 💕
Excellent vid & sensible modifications necessary. Not overdoing at all. Future proofing & improving an otherwise cheap buy is for efficiency and durability. Kudos to you🙏👍
Yes, many of us owe a debt to John McK 47 for his very thorough descriptions and explanations of the why and how of the elements of the systems. Beyond simply listing solutions, he teaches a 'systems approach' to understanding the machine and the physical principles. Of the first class TH-cam content creators, the teachers are some of the best.
I love my Chinese diesel heater it is so cool. Thanks for making this video. I just got mine running today and now that I know it works I can install it properly.
Thanks for the helpful video! I think there might be a reason the fuel pickup in the tank is mounted where it is. I have noticed water and dirt eventually settles below that line, making it easy to dump/clean later. Enjoy!
Very useful information! Thank you very much, I have just bought one, but not installed yet. Now I think it will be easy! With regards, Åge Ernst Øvrebø, Norway
Just waiting for my heater to arrive for install into my workshop, after spending silly money on electric heaters, gas was never an option for woodworking and kiln dried wood in my workshop. so thank you for this video, I shall do the mod when it arrives, I always thought the pump had to be at roughly 45 degrees or there abouts , i see you put your directly horizontal.
I just bought one of these but haven't tried it yet. I watched a video detailing 12 points about these heaters & he said that the fuel pumps should be mounted at 15 to 30 degrees which is exactly how yours, & mine came. Who knows who's right!!! I agree about the screen brightness, they seem to work OK from above or below but not straight on which is the opposite to how screens normally work
As per DormantIdeas NIQ notes below, the pump needs to work using an inlet at the bottom, pumping up to the outlet. Ditto the angle, 30 deg is OK. The pulse rate quoted GHz, I think it is just Hz. 1.8 GHz is 10^9 pulses per second!! The other mods you made are good ideas, thanks. For my installation (at a hangar), I want to use an elbow to enable the exhaust to route at floor level. BTW, the exhaust muffler is the cause of the backpressure, extending the pipe with the same diameter (preferably within corrugations) should not be an issue.
Hello Graham, good to meet you. I think you came up in my you tube feed because of the diesel heater as I am not a wood working guy. I do have a shop and I do love tools but I came to the realization as a young man that I don't have the patience to do fine woodwork. Not that my shop hasn't kicked out the odd product that vaguely resembles a bird house or a bird feeder. I just wanted to say I like your presentation style and I wish you luck in the growth of your channel.
Hello mate. Very helpful video. Many thanks. Just a little heads up. Both links for the fuel pipe kit do not work. I cut and pasted the text description in to ebays search bar and it worked. Thanks for the link. All the best.
Ok, I’m only 15 seconds into this video, and I’ve already subscribed. Go ahead Mr. Bond, tell me more about Chinese Diesel Heaters! 😂 Seriously though, well done Sir!
Great video, I was going to say I saw the fuel tank on a bit of an angle, you explained why at the end! It would be nice though to buy a unit with out having to upgrade it eh!
The pump needs to be at 15 to (closer to)30 degrees angle so the air bubbles can clear while it still gets lubricated by the fuel. It is best to prime the line and the pump MANUALLY before running it. While it pumps a million ticks to prime it runs dry... not good. Also the pump needs to be mounted on soft rubber with a bracket that itself is mounted on soft rubber to make it quite a bit quieter. May not be a bad idea to place the pump on these rubber mounts behind an encasing that yet will reduce the ticking to near nil. ...and the pump generally needs to pump up to the unit. outlet of pump needs to be higher than inlet 15 to 30 degrees.
@@petemolder These pumps need to an angle off 45⁰, they work on 30⁰ but need 45⁰. The manufacture of these pumps advise it, so why should we explain this!!
Yes! I recall seeing that the pump must be tilted 15 - 30 degrees, regardless of how crummy the instruction manual is, this was clear to me. VERY important. Rubber mounts are just brilliant! 😊
Not sure if this has been covered in the comments. It appears that you have the protective plastic screen in place on the controller display which would account for the poor visibility. Also, you have the fuel filter installed backwards. You should be able to see the contents of the fuel filter from the "dirty side" closest to the tank. This way you can see if any debris is accumulating in the filter. The way you have it the debris would be hidden, out of view in the screen. Cheers.
The purpose of the fuel outlet being so high on the tank is because diesel fuel can be dirty and it gives it a place to settle and not clog up the filter.
@@GTWoodshop Great content. Was planning to us one of those flat 10ltr tanks as a day tank gravity feeding my bus oil stove - offtake in the lowest point etc. But have just read a few horror stories about them splitting or just leaking at the cheap seals. Think I'm going to get one custom made with all the breathers exactly placed and a robust shut off valve!
Can use small plastic drywall anchors to cover pointy screws from puncturing the tank. The tank inlet is elevated to create a sediment trap instead of an inline filter.
Chinese diesel Air heaters are a near 1:1 copy of Eberspacher and Webasto heaters so are great bits of kit, IF fitted correctly and therein lies most of their problems! Fit it correctly and it's a fantastic little heater and will run for a long time without any hassle. 👍
I have 5 of these heaters. The fuel outlet is raised up from tank bottom to allow space for water and sediment. Thats why no filter required. The pipe is fine, the pump will expand the pipe marginally until the pressure peaks at the average pressure required. This also smooths the fuel flow. The pump will be lubricated at any angle, diesel has no surface tension and will froth inside the pump. This forms small bubbles despite the mounting angle. No problem there either. The pump itself is a brass plunger in a cylinder driven by a pulse solenoid. You may be right about the exhaust though, never done it to comment.
I noticed from your previous video an exhaust mistake but I am not sure the larger tube was the answer. It may temporarily solve the problem but in the long term need to change the angle of departure. From what I have heard everyone say about the heater, you need to have the exhaust gradually pointed downward due to moisture/fluid build up in the tube. Your tube looks like it is pointed up hill. The exhaust muffler on mine actually has a hole in it to let the moisture drain out. Most people don't know that. They lay it flat like a turtle shell when they should be turning it sideways so the hole on the side of the muffler is pointed downward. It looks like the new position of your heater has corrected the problem of your previous location so the exhaust has a downward slope to allow the moisture to drain out the tube instead of building up moisture/fluid causing the back pressure you were told about. Peace
i added 6' extra same sized and kept it sloping downward inside my shed inside a metal duct that left enough space at the bottom to allow air flow. an inline fan at the top of the duct. it harvests a lot of extra heat from the exhaust pipe!! So far no problems with the added length
The softer out put fuel line actually acts as a compensator,smoothing out the pulses and cushioning the fuel pump stroke and creating a smother burn. But you must be sure to bleed properly. My units have been running great with the green fuel line.(maybe they have improved it) I purchased a quantity of it and use it on weed whips, chain saws and other small engines with no problems yet. As far as the loose fuel tank i just applied a piece of thick black foam gasket materal on sides and end of the tank now its isolasticley kept in place. I run 4 of these heaters in Wisconsin winters 24-7 and the only problems so far is having to replace 2 glow plugs. My fault for letting them run out of fuel and trying to start them without priming them first. Easy fix.
i would like to say that i noticed that the outlet of the pump is pointing downwards .It should be pointing upward at 45 degrees to alloy any air in the pump to escape.if air remains trapped in the pump it can cause premature wear.The 2nd thing i noticed is the display screen is shipped with a plastic shield to protect it from scratches during shipping .You must remove that plastic by peeling it off then the screen will become clear as glass.I hope this helps you.
Point #2, you don't want to suck from the very bottom of the tank. That's where most of the garbage collects. My tank has some debris at the bottom that I'd rather not get sucked up or clog the fuel line. That's why it's up little from the bottom.
Hello Graham, Thanks for this information, nicely presented, clear and concise. Just wanted to correct one thing. Hertz, is a measure of frequency. 1 Hz = 1 cycle per second, 2 Hz, 2 cycles per second and so on. That pump is running at 1 to 2 Hertz. KHz = (Kilo) thousands of cycles/second, audio frequency, that which we hear is approx 60Hz-20KHz for a young person. MHz = (Mega) Millions of cycles/second, radio/TV etc transmission frequency. GHz = (Giga) 10 to the power of 9, add another three zeros (1,000,000,000/cycles per second) . Now we're in the microwave radio band. Hope that's helpful.
Thanks for the video, sounds like I watched the same video series. The item that really caught my attention was upgrading to an actual airfilter on the intake. Gotta keep the dust and insects out of the system. Webasto makes a very affordable serviceable unit. My heater is mounted in my 18 ft. 5th wheel travel trailer that is getting a complete rebuild this winter.
Not sure where you got your info from but these diesel heaters will run by gravity feed without the pump being actually connected using a inline medical type drip feed to the fuel line and a dummy load to the pump such as a 12 volt light , the pump pressure is very low and there is no injector the fuel just hits (?) the mesh and vaporises through the mesh after it's been heated so there is no injector like a diesel car has. The pump ticking is audible through a glass sliding door and is outside. It can be quietened down a bit by wrapping it with an ironing board insulation matt the felt and synthetic fibre type as I did but it still has a tick on start up (pain) For your worry about those protruding screws , use small short stainless steel nut and bolts. I had an initial learning curve with mine running it on low for too long, around 15-20 hours, caused gobs of soot and carbon build up in the burn and expansion chambers. Just so I don't damage my gasket again I used a copper coat both sides which saves the wait time for a new set. After viewing many a review about these diesel heaters my only question would be , Why don't they have a better burn off when they go through the shut down sequence to get rid off the excess in the burn and expansion chambers? Now I am looking at better sources of diesel as the place I got my diesel from sells dirty fuel or low grade at best. Cheers good information is useful Mate thanks.
Never had any problems with mine at all...BUT: I run it on home heating oil, which may be a lot better for it than diesel. I did shorten the screws mentioned, and I did extend the exhaust with the same diameter tube. Also, I always run it at full heat for 5 mins before shutting it down, and shutting it down "cleanly", i.e. pressing the off button, and not just disconnecting the power. Your workshop appears bigger than mine, but you don't appear to have the likes of a large metal lathe, and a milling machine, both of which "soak up" any heat, I could do with a bigger unit. Nonetheless, I have had mine for 2 years, and am very pleased with it.
Hi Cossiedriver, yes I always perform a clean shutdown on mine. I don't run it up to full before shutdown, but always let it go through the shutdown cycle. 👍
I will try your pump setup because it made sense. To make it clear, the OUT part of the pump will be facing down (with the wiring side). So, the pump IN-take will be on top coming from the tank (filter). Based on your setup. Thanks.
HI J, yes. All of the info I have managed to find about the pump suggested that the pump should be vertical but didn't mention anything regarding the intake being up or down. Mine is still running beautifully in that orientation. 👍
J, the pump should absolutely be mounted with the input below the output. Fuel, and any bubbles should be exiting via the top of the pump. Yes you can mount the pump vertically, or at incline an angle, but Do Not mount it horizontally or with the output below the input. In your terms the “OUT part” needs to be facing up. Watch this other tutorial. th-cam.com/video/jCZhjGyR3bo/w-d-xo.html
Great video, I have just got one of these for my garage. Great bit of kit and burns surprisingly cleanly. I need to plumb it into a more permanent position but I have no doubt that it will help alot in the cold spells like we had a week or so ago.
With reading the screen, I mounted it onto a sheet of ply to install on an extended lead about 5 meters long to the burner mounted on an outside wall, I have noticed that looking down at an angle on the screen makes it more clear to see than looking directly at it. It seems to be comprised of a white led backlight that isnt very bright at all and you can see this white led light leaking forwards at the edges of the screen.
I'm running 12 feet of exhaust(extra free heat) , same diameter as exhaust that came with it. My start up from cold, is just over 2 minutes. Your theory is bunk my friend.
Nice work! But you just made it worst! You put the pump upside down, the exit must be up, not down, the air is going up by gravity, so having the pump trying to push the air go down is not good and probably harder to prime! I put the exit up and works really good! Tkx for your video!
Thanks for the video very informative, noticed you said about the screen is hard to read...? Well it looks to me as though you have left the screen protector on....
I don't think the pump should be installed vertical, but rather at a 30° angle from horizontal, plus it should be pumping upwards not downwards. Other than that, a very informative video
The one I got has the newer control and it reads entirely clearly. Mine is not in a box, but standalone and I keep the fuel tank a few meters away from the unit. It does a burnout when turned off so the soot is blown out of it. but if use the entire season, it is a good maintenance to open it up and clean it thoroughly to avoid to be surprised by a break down. It is wise to keep spare parts, like the glow plug, ... so that if it breaks down you are ready to put it back in shape. I also bought a second one, so if it breaks down I am not out of heat, I have time to fix it. These heater also come with the fan rubbing and fill fail to run... 2 screwdrivers strategically placed between the housing and the fan can push the fan out(careful, just enough pressure) and voila, it is freely rotating.
I'm not sure where you get your ideas to mess with everything like you did but I've been running these for quite some time now and I have never done a single thing to them .
1. you could replace the screws with shorter ones or even get plastic rivets like those used to hold circuit boards to the metal frame where there are 2 pieces a piece that goes into the hole and a pin cap that goes into the rivet to expand the prongs and hold it in place. 2. if you dont want to do that you can take a scrap of wood about half inch or 12 mm thick and place over the back of the front plate where the screws are and that will prevent the tank from being slammed into the screws. 3. you dont want to have the fuel connection to the tank to be right on the bottom because if there should be any settlings it could get taken into the pump and clog the pump or even the heater.
If you have the inlet for the fuel at the bottom you will get any contaminates in the fuel going through the system its a crude but effective filter. you may give yourself another problem down the line "literally" by tilting the tank.
According to 2022 experts Pump out put up with pump angle 35 to45 degrees which allows air to properly purge also pump angled for best burn efficiency.
Don’t know if someone has already mentioned but it looks like the protective plastic film is still on the digital wall display that might help to fix the vision problem
His no engineer mate his an Aussie battler who's owned many a victor lawnmower!😂 His information is correct and anyone who owns a deisel heater should take note... There a simple flawless design when used correctly..👌
I know this vid is a year old........but.........i just wanted to mention that IMHO your fuel filter is mounted i the opposite direction. As i have learned fuel should be running/flowing inside the bowl of the filter from outside the screen to the inside. For you are able to see the collected dirt on the screen better ;-) Another thing that comes into mind is how to protect the air intake from saw dust? Thanks for the informative vid!
Excellent tips about the fuel line, fuel filter and exhaust back pressure but I think the fuel tank is locked in place by the hole the tank lit protrudes through, mine is a snug fit at least anyway.
The fuel line is above the bottom so you don't get dirty diesel or water going in the unit, the frequency is Not Gigahertz of the pump it's Hertz or Hz
Er….you’ve left the plastic film on the display which is probably why it is opaque, rather than clear. I also went for gravity assist with fuel, pump, heater - top to bottom. I also have a 2m exhaust (same bore) which flows against gravity. Had no issues in 3/4/5 years. I really can’t remember how many years thanks to Covjd.
Provided the hose is rated for the peak pressure that the pump delivers then it should be good to use. The flexibility in the fuel line will absorb the peak pressure fluctuations and the burner unit will receive a more constant pressure supply. You could argue that this is a benefit as the flow through the burner nozzle will be smoother. I would mount the plunger pump vertically to remove any gravity loads from the plunger cylinder. The plunger pump won’t operate at 1.8 GHz……that’s flux capacitor frequency and could adjust the clocks in your shed.
A couple of things. First I thought the output of the pump should always be facing upward. Second the screen should be easier to see if you took the projective plastic film off of it.
I enjoyed your very informative video thank you. I wonder if you have had any bad smells from the unit, especially the rubber gasket to the metal plate to the underside of the unit? There is quite a lot of talk about the smell of rubber or plastic, and I have the same smell. I have checked the exhaust and can’t see a problem with that. You are meticulous and I value your input. Thanks again!
@@GTWoodshop hi, I have managed to find a video by jwgmail here on TH-cam and he addresses the smell. I think it’s something that we should all be aware of in case the possible leaks are small but over time they could effect the blood. I have only had my heater for 2 weeks so I’m just being careful. If you do watch the 2 parts, you will see some interesting comments about possibly smells and/or leaks. I think that it is unburnt diesel, but I’m a newby so I’m learning a lot from everyone. Thank you for your response GT.
Thanks for the video! Very helpful! Unfortunately the link in description about the right pipe to install is expired, would you mind adding another one? Thanks again!
Judging by the fact almost everyone with a channel has done a video on these heaters, or to be more precise their endless faults, i think id be inclined to cut it in half. It'll fit in the bin easier!
_Here's a quick tip for the controller. Take your finger or something sharp and peel back the plastic film off the controller's face; it will make the controller much better to see._
Hi Brian, I have two heaters in two different buildings, one has the air intake inside, the other is outside and it makes no difference that I can find.
RE the display panel. It looked from the video as if the protective film was still on. Try one corner and see if it peels off. The display will then be much clearer.
Awesome video! But I think you mounted the pump upside down... output should be on the top to prevent air bubbles. But since your installation is very short it seems not to be a problem...
Just curious how long your pump lasted if you left it upside down I would guess about 3 weeks before it is damaged to much to run from no lubrication because air pockets
I thought that the fuel pump had to be mounted vertically such that the fuel is pumped up through it and not down through it like I believe you have done. I learned that from another video, but seemed to make sense at the time. You may want to check as I'm no expert.
Hi John, indeed many people advise that the pump should be mounted at vertically or at 30 degrees pumping up so that the bubbles are naturally expelled, however that would of made piping a little more difficult so I thought I try it mounted to make the piping easier. It's still running without issue so no harm done so far. 👍
I couldnt really knock them for having the fuel outlet from the tank, not sucking off the absolute bottom. It being slightly raised helps sediment fall to the bottom and not clog the filter. The unit can also be fine tuned with the fuel/air ratio to give optimal fuel burn and eliminate smoking from the exhaust pipe,reduces coking etc. Nice wood working shop by the way ).
Great video. These heaters are meant for RVS and huge semi truck sleepers. I am pretty sure the exhaust fumes need to output exit workshop. If your climate is MILD, maybe keep your space warm.
as a mechanic i hate to tell you most pick up points from a fuel tank are normaly a bit from the bottom to allow for crap sitting in the bottom i.e water which occurs alot and what else gets in there ............many years ago commercial tanks had a draind point to let the sludge our....today on commercial filters they have a drain point water sits below.. oil floats on top of water you dont want condensation or water in a burner white smoke
![[SOLVED] Diesel Heater Won't Start, Blowing White Smoke](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PaxYxzdTX64/mqdefault.jpg)
Most cars and trucks gas tanks, have some safety space from the bottom to the inlet, so gunk, gel, and water can accumulate and be spotted on the bottom, before it reaches the sensitive systems.
And a drain plug at the very bottom, to get rid of those accumulations.
Thanks for your video!! Kudos for a Very neat and clean workshop!!
Wow! This video is over 2 years old, and it helped me 100%! My CDH is due in a couple of days, and of all the video's I've seen, yours is the best at helping me with what I need to do BEFORE I install mine! CHEERS from across the pond!
HVAC installer since 1986 here. Safety tip for those who are mechanically able - I pressure test all my diesel heaters before installing them with a dewalt vaccum/blower (not a leaf blower) or similar to check for possible leaks by pressurizing the combustion chamber similar to pressurizing a 2 stroke engine when doing a leak test. Block or plug the exhaust port and blow into the intake port. Use soapy water around every gasket and seal on the unit. You'd be surprised! Every one of these I have bought, brand new, has leaks, everywhere! I disassemble and reassemble using high temp rtv on both sides of gaskets and around all rubber fittings and tubes, let it set up overnight and re-test by pressurizing with low pressure, gently. The only place that cannot be sealed is the fan motor shaft near the bearings but is in a negative pressure zone and shouldn't be much of a concern. I am extremely, overly sensitive to gases, vapors and smells of any kind and they make me sick. Even though a CO detector can show a zero reading, the exhaust is still bad for you if it enters the living area. I also vent the breather hole on the fuel cap to the outside (if unit is mounted indoors) with a piece of tubing and a barbed fitting screwed into the cap as I found that it puffs fumes at the same rate as the ump pulsates. I guarantee all of these have leaks, even when new out of the box and the leaking fumes can be then brought inside with the heated air. Safety first. :)
This is the best comment I've seen on any video or article related to these heaters. Having mechanical experience I assumed these cheap chinese heaters must have some flaws people have been glossing over... Thanks!
@@Mountain-Man-3000 Thanks, much appreciated. I've recently found another leak that MUST be addressed. I may make a video about it at some point... the flange of the motor mount, recessed area, where it connects to the housing and screw holes must be sealed with RTV by prying off the impeller and removing the screws that hold the parts together. Seal both sides and around the motor shaft. It will still spin freely after it cures overnight, just spin it by hand to free it before re-assembling. I figured this out the hard way as I woke up with a headache one morning and my air quality sensor had very high readings.
are those gaskets ok to use with high temp rtv ?
Thanks for your information, my heater is around 2 weeks old , must be up dated as the screws from control unit are shorter. Yes screen is difficult to read so I’ve mounted off the unit pipes are harder now , but priming program was slightly different . But mounting the pump different got my heater working many thanks 👍🏻
Excellent video, thanks. The reason the tank outlet is not at the bottom of the tank is to allow sediment or debris to settle without being sucked out and into the engine.
Hey bought one to for my little man cave. I followed everything from your idea . Everything works great. Thank you very much. Sir. Hey TH-cam we need more people like him or her. Take my friend from Ontario Canada 🇨🇦.
I drive long haul truck on the other side of the pond. My old truck had one of those heaters. Hearing yours fire up brought back memories. Mines was a Webasto and when it fired up the thing sounded like a jet engine. When they work they are the best heat source out there. Love the video thanks for posting. I'm actually looking to get one for my shop and that's how I found your video.
Hi Johnny, yea first time I thought she was goinna explode. 🤣🤣
Yes that brings back so many good memories back in the day tramping around England overnight stays and a nice warm Kip at night. No sat nav just the MK1 map book. 👍
1.8 gigahertz Oh yes you are very reliably informed . Also there is no pressure in the fuel line . The pump pushes the fuel at the rate you set but there is no *high* pressure in the fuel line .The only important thing in changing the fuel line is the build quality .As other have said keep the fuel pump at 30° pumping upwards to avoid air pockets . nice setup you have
You are the one that has a grip on the fuel delivery.
Why does everyone think this is an injection system when it is a precise drip feed no squirt to it.
The only problem with the green line is it isn't UV rated and it kinks easy if not ran right. Oh and it isn't very good with heat 😁
@@willardlentz3044made me chuckle that little pump doing 1.8 Billion cycles per second 😬
the green tubes issues are not limited to easily kinking , which is indeed one reason NOT to use these tubes . They also are not resilient to the small vacuum of each pump cycle and are significantly more prone to airlocks ...like this guy says junk the green tubes and get the rigid nylon
I bought one of these diesel heaters. I took your advice and I changed the fuel lines and put a filter in. I used some 2mm fuel line to cap them nasty sharp screws off. What a fantastic machine especially the new model with better screen. Best £90 I've ever spent. The pump on the unit is pretty annoying but I can always mount the unit outside the shed in a little box. They throw out some lovely heat 🔥. Going to see if it runs on old vegetables oil. I've heard it will run on any oil.
Great video thanks. Dean 🇬🇧
Thank you Dean. 👍
They definitely won't run on veg oil alone maybe a mix with diesel?
@@paulb8186 I use mine with used motor oil cut with diesel. I find it takes forever to start up and get hot. That said, I am going to adjust my ratio of diesel to oil and see what happens. Veg oil has a lower flash point then motor oil i believe, so it should burn it just fine. I would certainly cut it with diesel tho.
Nicely done. Very clear, concise and lively. These inexpensive little heaters solve some problems for us all. These fixes should make them much more reliable!
Hi G.L. thank you. 👍👌
I have just bought one my friend, (8kw) in black (25th Sept) and they have upgraded the LED screen with a square double sided sticky pad, I also noticed the pump was upside down (looking at your video) where you connect the plug to it was facing up, so I will face mine down like you have done, also the fuel pipe is all the hard plastic and not the green soft tube, there is no filter so I am waiting for that to come, along with an ultra quiet pump, spare glow plug and some small Juberlee clips, I did find a lot of the screws etc were not very tight, so fixed that as well, I am going to have to cut the fuel line near the tank to fit the filter in, then fingers crossed, should be good to go.
Thanks for all your information that you have given us. (I have subscribed to your channelas well )
Hi Charlie, thank you. n investment you will be delighted with I'm sure. 👍
doesnt the ultra quiet pump comes with a built in filter?
As some people already explained, the pump has to be in an angle. Also not upside down because air can now be trapped.
The outlet of the tank always must be a bit above the bottom for water and debris to settle.
I just ordered one of these in Christchurch NZ, and THEN looked up about reliability. Priorities right. Thanks to this video, it's all good again. Easy fixed. I believe the kit forms of this machine are bought by the Czechosolvakian army, so they must be pretty good. Anyway, thanks for this video, good old fashioned, layman, thorough explanations, advice and detail. Stopped me having another breakdown :)
Hi Ian, you're welcome. 👍
I also watched the complete series that you refered to. (Great series too) One point that I think you might have missed is that the outlet of the pump needs to be pointed in the UP position. He said something about the bubbles being normal and an actuall need for them was an important part of operation.
Hi Bob, thanks, I'll go check again. 👍
Very informative video and your timing is perfect as I am starting to look into this as an alternative to expensive fan heaters. As I think others have mentioned the tank outlet is to allow debris to settle in the bottom of the tank and not get sucked into the pump. Car fuel tanks work in exactly the same way.
You have a new subscriber. 🙂
Hi Andy, thank you, and welcome to the channel. 👍👌
I know who you are talking about before you mentioned him. He's a genius!
was it John Mc or David Mc?
I always like to see people improving things make a cheap stuff perform better. Don’t condemn it Chinese/ German Italian or whatever cheap or crap just show the world what you can do to make it better. Thanks for sharing bro you are awesome 💕
Thanks Jimmy. 👍
No insurance if there is fire, and one of these heaters is involved.
Excellent vid & sensible modifications necessary. Not overdoing at all. Future proofing & improving an otherwise cheap buy is for efficiency and durability. Kudos to you🙏👍
Hi Francis, thank you. 👍👍
Very Informative, and thank you for sharing. Even 1 yr later and I appreciate all the info and the reference to the John Mck series.
Hi Jeff, Glad it was helpful! 👍
Yes, many of us owe a debt to John McK 47 for his very thorough descriptions and explanations of the why and how of the elements of the systems. Beyond simply listing solutions, he teaches a 'systems approach' to understanding the machine and the physical principles. Of the first class TH-cam content creators, the teachers are some of the best.
Hi Pete, absolutely. 👍
I love my Chinese diesel heater it is so cool. Thanks for making this video. I just got mine running today and now that I know it works I can install it properly.
Hi Kevin, that's fab news mate, they are fantastic aren't they. 👍 Thank you. 😁
Thanks for the helpful video! I think there might be a reason the fuel pickup in the tank is mounted where it is. I have noticed water and dirt eventually settles below that line, making it easy to dump/clean later. Enjoy!
Hi nadieselgirl, thanks. You may well have a point therre. 👍
this is correct , purpose designed to prevent debris pickup
Very useful information! Thank you very much, I have just bought one, but not installed yet. Now I think it will be easy! With regards, Åge Ernst Øvrebø, Norway
Hello Norway and thank you. 👍
Just waiting for my heater to arrive for install into my workshop, after spending silly money on electric heaters, gas was never an option for woodworking and kiln dried wood in my workshop. so thank you for this video, I shall do the mod when it arrives, I always thought the pump had to be at roughly 45 degrees or there abouts , i see you put your directly horizontal.
I thought I'd try it and see if it caused a problem......... Still sound as a pound 2yrs on. 👍
I just bought one of these but haven't tried it yet. I watched a video detailing 12 points about these heaters & he said that the fuel pumps should be mounted at 15 to 30 degrees which is exactly how yours, & mine came. Who knows who's right!!! I agree about the screen brightness, they seem to work OK from above or below but not straight on which is the opposite to how screens normally work
As per DormantIdeas NIQ notes below, the pump needs to work using an inlet at the bottom, pumping up to the outlet. Ditto the angle, 30 deg is OK. The pulse rate quoted GHz, I think it is just Hz. 1.8 GHz is 10^9 pulses per second!! The other mods you made are good ideas, thanks. For my installation (at a hangar), I want to use an elbow to enable the exhaust to route at floor level. BTW, the exhaust muffler is the cause of the backpressure, extending the pipe with the same diameter (preferably within corrugations) should not be an issue.
Hi John, yes realised my mistake after publishing the vid, would drink fuel a bit a GHz. 🤣
Hello Graham, good to meet you. I think you came up in my you tube feed because of the diesel heater as I am not a wood working guy. I do have a shop and I do love tools but I came to the realization as a young man that I don't have the patience to do fine woodwork. Not that my shop hasn't kicked out the odd product that vaguely resembles a bird house or a bird feeder. I just wanted to say I like your presentation style and I wish you luck in the growth of your channel.
Hi Kokanee, thank you. 😁👍
Hello mate. Very helpful video. Many thanks. Just a little heads up. Both links for the fuel pipe kit do not work. I cut and pasted the text description in to ebays search bar and it worked. Thanks for the link. All the best.
Thank you for all the info and updates on the heater, big hugs from MN
Hi Dan, you're most welcome Sir. 😁
Thanks for the failure list and tips to fix!😊
Ok, I’m only 15 seconds into this video, and I’ve already subscribed. Go ahead Mr. Bond, tell me more about Chinese Diesel Heaters! 😂 Seriously though, well done Sir!
🤣😉
Great video, I was going to say I saw the fuel tank on a bit of an angle, you explained why at the end! It would be nice though to buy a unit with out having to upgrade it eh!
The pump needs to be at 15 to (closer to)30 degrees angle so the air bubbles can clear while it still gets lubricated by the fuel. It is best to prime the line and the pump MANUALLY before running it. While it pumps a million ticks to prime it runs dry... not good. Also the pump needs to be mounted on soft rubber with a bracket that itself is mounted on soft rubber to make it quite a bit quieter. May not be a bad idea to place the pump on these rubber mounts behind an encasing that yet will reduce the ticking to near nil.
...and the pump generally needs to pump up to the unit. outlet of pump needs to be higher than inlet 15 to 30 degrees.
i was going to mention this> The pump needs to be at 15 to (closer to)30 degrees angle
@@Sunny_Daye The pump can be mounted anywhere between 30deg and vertical. Vertical is best. If you insist on 45deg please explain why.
👍👍
@@petemolder These pumps need to an angle off 45⁰, they work on 30⁰ but need 45⁰. The manufacture of these pumps advise it, so why should we explain this!!
Yes! I recall seeing that the pump must be tilted 15 - 30 degrees, regardless of how crummy the instruction manual is, this was clear to me. VERY important. Rubber mounts are just brilliant! 😊
That was a very enjoyable and informative video, thank you for sharing.
Thank you Charlie, my pleasure.
It's nice to see you finally put the door on the newish shed.
Thank you fireman Sam. 🤣
Yes I watched your install videos & also John McK both helped a lot 👍🏼
Thanks Andrew. 👍
Not sure if this has been covered in the comments. It appears that you have the protective plastic screen in place on the controller display which would account for the poor visibility. Also, you have the fuel filter installed backwards. You should be able to see the contents of the fuel filter from the "dirty side" closest to the tank. This way you can see if any debris is accumulating in the filter. The way you have it the debris would be hidden, out of view in the screen. Cheers.
The purpose of the fuel outlet being so high on the tank is because diesel fuel can be dirty and it gives it a place to settle and not clog up the filter.
Hi Dangerous, thank you. 👍
@@GTWoodshop Looks like a standpipe in a jerrycan would make a whole lot more sense on all counts ........
@@dancarter482 😁
@@GTWoodshop Great content. Was planning to us one of those flat 10ltr tanks as a day tank gravity feeding my bus oil stove - offtake in the lowest point etc. But have just read a few horror stories about them splitting or just leaking at the cheap seals. Think I'm going to get one custom made with all the breathers exactly placed and a robust shut off valve!
@@dancarter482 I had one outside my litttle office for 3yrs before it stared leaking, the joint at the filter degraded.
Can use small plastic drywall anchors to cover pointy screws from puncturing the tank. The tank inlet is elevated to create a sediment trap instead of an inline filter.
Chinese diesel Air heaters are a near 1:1 copy of Eberspacher and Webasto heaters so are great bits of kit, IF fitted correctly and therein lies most of their problems!
Fit it correctly and it's a fantastic little heater and will run for a long time without any hassle. 👍
I have 5 of these heaters. The fuel outlet is raised up from tank bottom to allow space for water and sediment. Thats why no filter required. The pipe is fine, the pump will expand the pipe marginally until the pressure peaks at the average pressure required. This also smooths the fuel flow. The pump will be lubricated at any angle, diesel has no surface tension and will froth inside the pump. This forms small bubbles despite the mounting angle. No problem there either. The pump itself is a brass plunger in a cylinder driven by a pulse solenoid. You may be right about the exhaust though, never done it to comment.
I noticed from your previous video an exhaust mistake but I am not sure the larger tube was the answer. It may temporarily solve the problem but in the long term need to change the angle of departure. From what I have heard everyone say about the heater, you need to have the exhaust gradually pointed downward due to moisture/fluid build up in the tube. Your tube looks like it is pointed up hill. The exhaust muffler on mine actually has a hole in it to let the moisture drain out. Most people don't know that. They lay it flat like a turtle shell when they should be turning it sideways so the hole on the side of the muffler is pointed downward.
It looks like the new position of your heater has corrected the problem of your previous location so the exhaust has a downward slope to allow the moisture to drain out the tube instead of building up moisture/fluid causing the back pressure you were told about. Peace
i added 6' extra same sized and kept it sloping downward inside my shed inside a metal duct that left enough space at the bottom to allow air flow. an inline fan at the top of the duct. it harvests a lot of extra heat from the exhaust pipe!!
So far no problems with the added length
The softer out put fuel line actually acts as a compensator,smoothing out the pulses and cushioning the fuel pump stroke and creating a smother burn. But you must be sure to bleed properly. My units have been running great with the green fuel line.(maybe they have improved it) I purchased a quantity of it and use it on weed whips, chain saws and other small engines with no problems yet. As far as the loose fuel tank i just applied a piece of thick black foam gasket materal on sides and end of the tank now its isolasticley kept in place. I run 4 of these heaters in Wisconsin winters 24-7 and the only problems so far is having to replace 2 glow plugs. My fault for letting them run out of fuel and trying to start them without priming them first. Easy fix.
Thanks for the fuel pipe issue. In return your tank outlet is well placed, because dirt will set on the bottom of the tank.
Thanks Bernd. 👍
Ordered a similar heater for my garage. Thanks for the well presented videos. I'll know where to go and what to do if owt goes wrong.
Hi Ben, thank you. Don't forget to fit a filter! 👍
@@GTWoodshop It's on order mate. Thanks again for your informative videos. I'm just having a shufti at John McK's videos too. They're excellent.
There is an ideal angle that the fuel pump should be mounted at with a range of ° ! Don't ignore the manufacturers advice!
i would like to say that i noticed that the outlet of the pump is pointing downwards .It should be pointing upward at 45 degrees to alloy any air in the pump to escape.if air remains trapped in the pump it can cause premature wear.The 2nd thing i noticed is the display screen is shipped with a plastic shield to protect it from scratches during shipping .You must remove that plastic by peeling it off then the screen will become clear as glass.I hope this helps you.
Hi Denis, thank you. 😁👍
Point #2, you don't want to suck from the very bottom of the tank. That's where most of the garbage collects. My tank has some debris at the bottom that I'd rather not get sucked up or clog the fuel line. That's why it's up little from the bottom.
You should have just a link up and saved us time watching this
Hello Graham,
Thanks for this information, nicely presented, clear and concise.
Just wanted to correct one thing.
Hertz, is a measure of frequency. 1 Hz = 1 cycle per second, 2 Hz, 2 cycles per second and so on. That pump is running at 1 to 2 Hertz.
KHz = (Kilo) thousands of cycles/second, audio frequency, that which we hear is approx 60Hz-20KHz for a young person.
MHz = (Mega) Millions of cycles/second, radio/TV etc transmission frequency.
GHz = (Giga) 10 to the power of 9, add another three zeros (1,000,000,000/cycles per second) . Now we're in the microwave radio band.
Hope that's helpful.
Hi Michael, thanks. 👌👍
Great video and explanation of issues most appreciated
Hi Ross, thank you and you're welcome. 👍
Thanks for the video, sounds like I watched the same video series. The item that really caught my attention was upgrading to an actual airfilter on the intake. Gotta keep the dust and insects out of the system. Webasto makes a very affordable serviceable unit. My heater is mounted in my 18 ft. 5th wheel travel trailer that is getting a complete rebuild this winter.
Hi Don, that sounds like an awesome project. 👍
Not sure where you got your info from but these diesel heaters will run by gravity feed without the pump being actually connected using a inline medical type drip feed to the fuel line and a dummy load to the pump such as a 12 volt light , the pump pressure is very low and there is no injector the fuel just hits (?) the mesh and vaporises through the mesh after it's been heated so there is no injector like a diesel car has. The pump ticking is audible through a glass sliding door and is outside. It can be quietened down a bit by wrapping it with an ironing board insulation matt the felt and synthetic fibre type as I did but it still has a tick on start up (pain) For your worry about those protruding screws , use small short stainless steel nut and bolts. I had an initial learning curve with mine running it on low for too long, around 15-20 hours, caused gobs of soot and carbon build up in the burn and expansion chambers. Just so I don't damage my gasket again I used a copper coat both sides which saves the wait time for a new set. After viewing many a review about these diesel heaters my only question would be , Why don't they have a better burn off when they go through the shut down sequence to get rid off the excess in the burn and expansion chambers? Now I am looking at better sources of diesel as the place I got my diesel from sells dirty fuel or low grade at best.
Cheers good information is useful Mate thanks.
Never had any problems with mine at all...BUT: I run it on home heating oil, which may be a lot better for it than diesel.
I did shorten the screws mentioned, and I did extend the exhaust with the same diameter tube. Also, I always run it at full heat for 5 mins before shutting it down, and shutting it down "cleanly", i.e. pressing the off button, and not just disconnecting the power. Your workshop appears bigger than mine, but you don't appear to have the likes of a large metal lathe, and a milling machine, both of which "soak up" any heat, I could do with a bigger unit. Nonetheless, I have had mine for 2 years, and am very pleased with it.
Hi Cossiedriver, yes I always perform a clean shutdown on mine. I don't run it up to full before shutdown, but always let it go through the shutdown cycle. 👍
great vid thanks for your time
I will try your pump setup because it made sense. To make it clear, the OUT part of the pump will be facing down (with the wiring side). So, the pump IN-take will be on top coming from the tank (filter). Based on your setup. Thanks.
HI J, yes. All of the info I have managed to find about the pump suggested that the pump should be vertical but didn't mention anything regarding the intake being up or down. Mine is still running beautifully in that orientation. 👍
J, the pump should absolutely be mounted with the input below the output. Fuel, and any bubbles should be exiting via the top of the pump. Yes you can mount the pump vertically, or at incline an angle, but Do Not mount it horizontally or with the output below the input. In your terms the “OUT part” needs to be facing up. Watch this other tutorial. th-cam.com/video/jCZhjGyR3bo/w-d-xo.html
Great video, I have just got one of these for my garage. Great bit of kit and burns surprisingly cleanly. I need to plumb it into a more permanent position but I have no doubt that it will help alot in the cold spells like we had a week or so ago.
Hi Mark, you'll be 'Toasty' in no time. 👍
With reading the screen, I mounted it onto a sheet of ply to install on an extended lead about 5 meters long to the burner mounted on an outside wall, I have noticed that looking down at an angle on the screen makes it more clear to see than looking directly at it. It seems to be comprised of a white led backlight that isnt very bright at all and you can see this white led light leaking forwards at the edges of the screen.
I'm running 12 feet of exhaust(extra free heat) , same diameter as exhaust that came with it. My start up from cold, is just over 2 minutes. Your theory is bunk my friend.
Nice work! Thanks for this! 👍
This was a great help 👍
Thank you for the information!
Nice work! But you just made it worst! You put the pump upside down, the exit must be up, not down, the air is going up by gravity, so having the pump trying to push the air go down is not good and probably harder to prime! I put the exit up and works really good! Tkx for your video!
Thanks for the video very informative, noticed you said about the screen is hard to read...? Well it looks to me as though you have left the screen protector on....
😁 You'd be right sir.
I don't think the pump should be installed vertical, but rather at a 30° angle from horizontal, plus it should be pumping upwards not downwards. Other than that, a very informative video
The one I got has the newer control and it reads entirely clearly. Mine is not in a box, but standalone and I keep the fuel tank a few meters away from the unit. It does a burnout when turned off so the soot is blown out of it. but if use the entire season, it is a good maintenance to open it up and clean it thoroughly to avoid to be surprised by a break down. It is wise to keep spare parts, like the glow plug, ... so that if it breaks down you are ready to put it back in shape. I also bought a second one, so if it breaks down I am not out of heat, I have time to fix it. These heater also come with the fan rubbing and fill fail to run... 2 screwdrivers strategically placed between the housing and the fan can push the fan out(careful, just enough pressure) and voila, it is freely rotating.
I’m excited to learn something here. 😊
Thanks Beatrix
I'm not sure where you get your ideas to mess with everything like you did but I've been running these for quite some time now and I have never done a single thing to them .
great video, well presented, and very informal
Hi Eddie, thank you. 👍
Great stuff, well spoken,👍
Hi Acheeez, thank you. 👍
1. you could replace the screws with shorter ones or even get plastic rivets like those used to hold circuit boards to the metal frame where there are 2 pieces a piece that goes into the hole and a pin cap that goes into the rivet to expand the prongs and hold it in place.
2. if you dont want to do that you can take a scrap of wood about half inch or 12 mm thick and place over the back of the front plate where the screws are and that will prevent the tank from being slammed into the screws.
3. you dont want to have the fuel connection to the tank to be right on the bottom because if there should be any settlings it could get taken into the pump and clog the pump or even the heater.
If you have the inlet for the fuel at the bottom you will get any contaminates in the fuel going through the system its a crude but effective filter.
you may give yourself another problem down the line "literally" by tilting the tank.
Great vid thanks, I think you would see the LCD better if you removed the screen protector film. It's easy to forget it's there.
According to 2022 experts Pump out put up with pump angle 35 to45 degrees which allows air to properly purge also pump angled for best burn efficiency.
Don’t know if someone has already mentioned but it looks like the protective plastic film is still on the digital wall display that might help to fix the vision problem
Hi Peter, they had and it did help a little. 👍
His no engineer mate his an Aussie battler who's owned many a victor lawnmower!😂
His information is correct and anyone who owns a deisel heater should take note...
There a simple flawless design when used correctly..👌
I know this vid is a year old........but.........i just wanted to mention that IMHO your fuel filter is mounted i the opposite direction. As i have learned fuel should be running/flowing inside the bowl of the filter from outside the screen to the inside. For you are able to see the collected dirt on the screen better ;-) Another thing that comes into mind is how to protect the air intake from saw dust? Thanks for the informative vid!
Excellent tips about the fuel line, fuel filter and exhaust back pressure but I think the fuel tank is locked in place by the hole the tank lit protrudes through, mine is a snug fit at least anyway.
Very informative! Just one thing, the filter should be the other way around i think?
The fuel line is above the bottom so you don't get dirty diesel or water going in the unit, the frequency is Not Gigahertz of the pump it's Hertz or Hz
Er….you’ve left the plastic film on the display which is probably why it is opaque, rather than clear.
I also went for gravity assist with fuel, pump, heater - top to bottom. I also have a 2m exhaust (same bore) which flows against gravity. Had no issues in 3/4/5 years. I really can’t remember how many years thanks to Covjd.
Provided the hose is rated for the peak pressure that the pump delivers then it should be good to use. The flexibility in the fuel line will absorb the peak pressure fluctuations and the burner unit will receive a more constant pressure supply. You could argue that this is a benefit as the flow through the burner nozzle will be smoother. I would mount the plunger pump vertically to remove any gravity loads from the plunger cylinder. The plunger pump won’t operate at 1.8 GHz……that’s flux capacitor frequency and could adjust the clocks in your shed.
A couple of things. First I thought the output of the pump should always be facing upward. Second the screen should be easier to see if you took the projective plastic film off of it.
Also, that white tubing is less heat resistant than the original green tubing.
I enjoyed your very informative video thank you. I wonder if you have had any bad smells from the unit, especially the rubber gasket to the metal plate to the underside of the unit? There is quite a lot of talk about the smell of rubber or plastic, and I have the same smell. I have checked the exhaust and can’t see a problem with that. You are meticulous and I value your input. Thanks again!
Hi Gordon, thank you. I have never noticed the small of burning rubber from the unit. Could the unit be getting overly hot I wonder?
@@GTWoodshop hi, I have managed to find a video by jwgmail here on TH-cam and he addresses the smell. I think it’s something that we should all be aware of in case the possible leaks are small but over time they could effect the blood. I have only had my heater for 2 weeks so I’m just being careful. If you do watch the 2 parts, you will see some interesting comments about possibly smells and/or leaks. I think that it is unburnt diesel, but I’m a newby so I’m learning a lot from everyone. Thank you for your response GT.
@@gordonmitchell729 Hi Gordon you're welcome and thanks for the feedback and info. I'll have a look at the Video. 👍
Great video👍
Hi Adam, Thank you. 😁👍
Thanks for the video! Very helpful! Unfortunately the link in description about the right pipe to install is expired, would you mind adding another one? Thanks again!
Judging by the fact almost everyone with a channel has done a video on these heaters, or to be more precise their endless faults, i think id be inclined to cut it in half. It'll fit in the bin easier!
_Here's a quick tip for the controller. Take your finger or something sharp and peel back the plastic film off the controller's face; it will make the controller much better to see._
👍 Hi Sui, yea, figured than one, thanks for the tip anyway. 👍
Looks like the protective (for shipping & handling) plastic film is still over your display. Peel it off and it will be much easier to read.😅
Hi, very good video. Do you have to have the air intake outside of the building?
Hi Brian, I have two heaters in two different buildings, one has the air intake inside, the other is outside and it makes no difference that I can find.
RE the display panel. It looked from the video as if the protective film was still on. Try one corner and see if it peels off. The display will then be much clearer.
Hi Paul, yes it was. 👍, better now. 😁
Great video but I’d suggest using a socket to tighten the clamps. When I first set mine up I used a screwdriver but had some leaking
Hi Derek, great point thanks for the tip. 👍
Awesome video! But I think you mounted the pump upside down... output should be on the top to prevent air bubbles. But since your installation is very short it seems not to be a problem...
Hi Alexandra, yes you're right, but as you say its such a small run, it seems fine. 👍
Just curious how long your pump lasted if you left it upside down
I would guess about 3 weeks before it is damaged to much to run from no lubrication because air pockets
I thought that the fuel pump had to be mounted vertically such that the fuel is pumped up through it and not down through it like I believe you have done. I learned that from another video, but seemed to make sense at the time. You may want to check as I'm no expert.
Hi John,
indeed many people advise that the pump should be mounted at vertically or at 30 degrees pumping up so that the bubbles are naturally expelled, however that would of made piping a little more difficult so I thought I try it mounted to make the piping easier. It's still running without issue so no harm done so far. 👍
I couldnt really knock them for having the fuel outlet from the tank, not sucking off the absolute bottom. It being slightly raised helps sediment fall to the bottom and not clog the filter. The unit can also be fine tuned with the fuel/air ratio to give optimal fuel burn and eliminate smoking from the exhaust pipe,reduces coking etc. Nice wood working shop by the way ).
Thank you very much. Very useful info.
HI Rangeo, you're welcome.
Great video.
These heaters are meant for RVS and huge semi truck sleepers.
I am pretty sure the exhaust fumes need to output exit workshop. If your climate is MILD, maybe keep your space warm.
Hi Ed, thank you. I agree on all your points, especially the exhaust. 👍
I think the tank outlet fitting is above the bottom for moisture in fuel reasons, just like diesel engine fuel bowls
Hi Molon, good point. 👍
Great Video
Thanks JC
as a mechanic i hate to tell you most pick up points from a fuel tank are normaly a bit from the bottom to allow for crap sitting in the bottom i.e water which occurs alot and what else gets in there ............many years ago commercial tanks had a draind point to let the sludge our....today on commercial filters they have a drain point water sits below.. oil floats on top of water you dont want condensation or water in a burner white smoke
Hi Anthony, apreciate the info thank you. 👍