LOVE this comment!!!! To date, I have received 5+ comments suggesting that I should have used Impact wrenches and other power tools. First off... I have 2 Air Impact Wrenches and a Cordless one as well. The manual that I followed mentioned that many people destroy the end threads of Bolts and Holes. It suggested not using them. My thought was... Cool I breakout the old Speed Wrench and have some fun. We weren't in any hurry... If we were, we wouldn't have filmed and edited it (adding to the timeline 4 fold!!!!). Damn... I sped up those boring parts and trimmed the duplications! Just goes to show that you can't please everyone. Especially the Online Keyboard Mechanics. Their videos are perfect!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike will agree impact guns can do damage removing bolts especially in aluminum do to the speed... i do however like to use air ratchets... still faster than hand but wont sit there free spinning the bolt on the threads under pressure... not a complaint just a thought for others who may not know better... and ill admit i do things different for work vs my personal projects(for pleasure).. sometimes its just more fun to take your time
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yeah, I've never understood the need for folks to say "You should use power tools". I mean, would I use them? Absolutely! But this is YOUR project, not anyone else's so I can respect your decision on not using power tools. Damn good point though on boogering up the threads upon removal with an impact. It's something that I'll definitely keep in mind for the future...
I wanted to comment about how there's no music just work and I appreciate it.. .and also its best to ues hand tools and torque wrenchs when working on engines. Facts
FLP Media I get so many comments that I should be using impact pneumatic tools.. blah blah blah. To many people rush through this and often do unnecessary damage. Thank you!!!!
Love to see you and your son's, "I think", learning from we old motorheads of the South! Super. Loved the old school way! I'm 58, and have cool tools too, amassed since I got infected, with my first car at 12! (61 Bug) But you are "one with the project", and surprisingly, might get more accomplished. Appreciate the clarity and lack of cussing. It can be done. Save those up and spend them when needed!, LOL Take Care Lee, N FL
We have done many jeep swaps over the years installing 351 efi winsor ford, 350 carbed chevy and also did a 360 efi magnum mopar in the past. They all did fantastic plenty of power and lasted thru the abuse. One of the best swaps we did was taking a flipped 96 f-250 4x4 7.3 diesel standard trans with only 30 k on it shorting the frame and sit a 94 bronco body on the modded chassis. we gave the 7.3 a stage 2 cam higher flowing injectors bigger turbo and a intercooler that was not standard in 96 That was supposed to bring it to the 500 hp huge torque range, never dyno'ed as the twisted drive shafts and broken yokes proved the power ... That bronco was a beast that would not stop after having non hollow drive shafts built and it brought big big bucks on ebay.
Well made video and just enough of an explanation not to bore the more experienced among us. I'm a newbie and have ambitions of swapping an LS into my GM400 pickup. It's a project I have had waiting for several years. In the meantime, I'm learning as much as I can from videos like yours. So thanks, and keep up the good work.
Great vid Mike. That engine looks like a great rebuild candidate. Looking forward to the rebuild. Also your son's are learning alot and will cherish these times when they are older. Keep up the great work.
This is the greatest platform to share! I have learned as much as I have shared and always happy to help. Cheers to you and thank you for the kind words. Mike
Thanks for the shout out. I am also picking up some good tips from you. I like the ice tray for lifter storage and the 2X4 for push rods. I'll do that next time. Ive used an old shoe box with holes poked in the lid before. Awesome tear down video!
This is such a great platform to share information. I had ordered a couple of trays for the teardown but they were going to be delivered several days after I realized that I wanted to perform the teardown. So I cancelled and made my own.
I have been watching several videos to try and get the correct info I needed and couldn't get it. These videos never seem to let me down, I got my answer with this video. Well done
Clifford Wells I have the 5.3LM7 in my 05 Silverado. It's already at 200,000 miles. I run Mobil 1 5w-30 and it still runs like the day I bought it. GM does a really great job with these engines. I think Ford ran into a lot of problems making the 3v 5.4 too complex, they change things way to often. I like that GM had a really great design and just kept it as is. I've seen some examples with over 500,000 miles and have no doubt mine can go that far. Considering the power these can handle, a stock motor is very understressed. I also like that all the LS series motors are compatible with one another.
I am also digging the good old fashioned elbow grease put in here. I am guilty of using pneumatic tools in my own garage as much as possible. I think they are a very valuable tool for disassembly assembly not so much. Very nice video no idiot bullshiting for hours before even starting and you guys have a nice little shop area there very clean and organized. Its easy to see this isn't your first dog and pony show!!
Love it! The purpose of all the details was to give the viewers a look at what it takes so that they can make the decision if it is something for them. Have fun with your build. Mike
For broken bolts if the vise grips dont work you can always file the sides and put a socket on it. You probably already knew but figured id inform! So far loving the series keep it up.
I have watched all of your videos and wow they are awesome hat's off to you you have really helped me on my build I have the same engine thanks and remember put God first and everything else last
Reminds me ofmy step-dad.... No air tools, just turn wrenches, and getr done. He was so old school... Hed change tires off rims, with an iron bar, an long pry bars.... And a sledge hammer. Hed rather do it himself, and save money.
As satisfying as it was to see the head bolts get taken off by hand till they came out, I had anxiety that the head could of possibly slid off brother!
Really appreciate you uploading this vid. I just picked up a 4.8 that needs rebuilding and I am literally going to follow everything you just did here. Big Thumbs up!!
Hey... Thank for the message. I highly recommend the following softback book: "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines" by Chris Werner. I found it on Amazon: amzn.to/2g3xXNl for about $20. I would not be hard to teardown an engine without it, but there are so many pieces of information that are really nice to know. Just got my parts back from the machine shop and plan on starting on the bottom end tomorrow. Best of luck with your build. Keep in touch!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike yes sir I always use that trick very good method and it works let me ask you this why did you use dry Bulls twerking down the mains I thought you had to dip oil at the tip of the bolts and then twerking down
@@oillife2115 During the final assembly, i placed a small amount of oil on the main cap around the holes. That may or may not have made the final cut of this series.
I got a 1975 chevy nova I got going, I built a 350 for it and am soon to get it running, but my plan is while driving it with the 350 I'll be building a ls1 for it, so these videos help a lot to show me what I'll be up against
Love this comment!!!!! This was not a "How to" series as there are some many options and choices that you can take. The purpose of this series was to show a base-line of the step required to do this. In your words, " Show you what you're up against". Awesome!!! And it sounds like you have a great plan!!!!
OvRdoSe69 Thank you! The manual that I was following suggest that many people with impact wrenches distort the threads of bolts and in the block. We decided to go old school. We were not in a time crunch. You can’t be if you are going to video tape the activity. Glad you enjoyed it.
The LS is such a great advanced over the small block Chevy.. The cathedral ports.. and the mains are really 6 bolt main.. Don't see many spun main bearings... good video
When doing head bolts good or bad I always soak them an then tap the heads with a hammer. Haven’t broken a head bolt in years since doing that. Never use impacts either. Always use breaker bars. Hammering shocked the threads and usually loosens the crap holding them on like rust and grime.
Not sure how I missed this original comment. I agree with hammering, breaker bars, and staying away from Impacts. It's hard to convince today's crowd on some of these items as they are so driven to get things done fast. It is always best to do it right. Cheers!
Great video a couple of tips for the harmonic balancer you should always use a 3 jaw puller to remove a LS balancer. When removing the cam use a couple of the long water pump bolts in the cam as a handle to help you remove and install the cam.
Justin Thurman very good points. I had seen many time people using the water pump bolts for the cam. The manual that I was following suggested the method I used, so I thought I would give it a try. Cheers!
Thanks for the great video.....for some reason no one has been able to tell me with validity why are the pushrods and rockers typically put in a box or off to the side with same sequence they are removed from an engine if they all are identically sized in every way???
The theory is that all contact parts in a rotating assembly wear and create mating surfaces. In the event that you plan to reuse these types of parts, you would want to pair up the original parts that have already mated themselves together.
Yes! The original Flex Plate (which I do not plan to use) is still mounted on the crankshaft. I am using a very large flat blade screw drive and creating leverage against one of the Engine Stand mounting sleeves.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Perfect. (Duh, why didn't I think of that). Thank you a million times for this video series, you are the best! I'm tearing down an LM7 I just found on Sunday.
great video I don't know if it has been stated yet, but to get the lifters out, you remove timing chain and turn cam Counter or normal clockwise one turn, that pushes the lifters up and locks them and allows you to remove each lifter tray with lifters in one operation. Its what I have seen, explained with demonstrated.
Mark Torre I had also seen that process and should have tried it. But I am not sure it would have helped in my case. The lifters would slide out slightly (normal travel) then get stuck. Great observation.
If you've ever broken off a bolt/stud on removal (even just once) you will then use penetrant solution, and the impact wrench. There is something about the rapid "machine gun" slapping action that will break the rusty bolt loose,compared to a long pipe on a breaker bar that simply breaks the head off.
Thank you for the video. I wish I knew where the long bolts from the oil pan came from. My motor came without oil pan. I wonder if yall rebuild transmissions on this page
The long bolts are something that you could pick up from a salvage yard. I did rebuild an AX15 5 speed transmission on this channel as a part of my current Jeep restoration project. There is a Playlist with the videos in that series. Here is a link... th-cam.com/play/PLo32GavtEb9RA78vGwpiFwhXSvIvHdmPG.html
You can use Air and Electric tools to do all this work. The manual warned of damaging threads when you're not careful. We elected the "Country Road" tour. Removal... Yes, I would not use one to install. Check with Summit on the manifold bolts.
I agree... I have seen other rebuild video where they have needed to drain water out of the Knock Sensor pockets. I guess someone is overwashing their engines!
Just discovered your channel, great content! Also figured I'd share a little trick I have learned with getting the cam out. The water pump bolts are longer but are the same size and thread pitch so you can screw those into the cam to make a little handle to help with pulling it and putting one in. I noticed you were using your speed wrench.
I had heard that and when I attempted to do that, the bolts did not screw in. I have a feeling I was using the wrong bolts. The little guidance manual that I have mentioned an extension or rod down the middle, so that is what I used. It will state that it was not the best method. When the Cam came out far enough, you can see that I abandoned the speed wrench! Awesome and thanks for sharing!!!!
You will probably get to this later in the video or something, but it is really important to stamp numbers on the rod caps and the main caps so you know what cap goes with what rod and main location.
junglejonny1000 the bores for the crank and rods are line bored perfectly linear. If you mismatch the rod and main caps, some could be just a tad different and the oil clearance between the bearings could be slightly off causing hotspots if too tight or vibration/knocking at high RPM if too loose. ALWAYS keep any valvetrain and rotating assembly parts in order if you plan on reusing them, they’ve been worn to that specific cylinder and should return to their homes. 😁👍🏻
When I lifted the Knock Sensor caps off, there was standing water around the Knock Sensors themselves. Under the Intake Manifold there is an open space. Water (Rain, Washing the engine) can get into this space. If allowed, it can seep past the KS covers and land on top of the KS. This typically should not happen, but the setup will allow it. This probably is the reason many KS go bad. They short out from water penetration. This is why I put the silicone damn on mine.
Not sure what you are asking or stating here. When you tighten down the Rockers... you need that lifter on the base circle. The method I use will do that. It has nothing to do with a cylinder being at Top Dead Center.
I appreciate that! I have Air tools. The manual that I was following made a good point on damage to threads when using air tools, so I elected not to. I did try to speed those section up for your entertainment!!!!! Thanks!
Interestingly, the book mentioned that people using air tools often bare down to ensure staying on the nut or bolt head and that if they continue to bare down when the threads reach the top, they bugger (technical term) up those top threads. I wasn't in a hurry and decided to go at it old school. It was fun with the boys.
Would it be beneficial to do a compression test prior to complete strip down and rebuild? Or do we assume you will be able to see/correct any issues related to compression when the machine shop gets it?
My thoughts.... If you have (or have access to borrow) the equipment to do a compression test, it would be a neat thing to do. If it identifies a bad cylinder, you can focus a little attention to that area and critique it for the cause of the issue as you are tearing the engine down. Ultimately, it will not have much bearing on the outcome as any leak around the rings is going to be resolved with the Bore/Hone and new Rings. Any leak in the heads (valve seating and valve stems) will be resolved if you are having the head rebuilt. If you were to do a preliminary compression test and the result indicated Great compress, it may influence some of your choices during the machining process, especially on a budget build. Cheers!
Richard Olsen oh come on.... you have to allow us to pretend to be an old school auto shop. It allowed us to become “one with project”. I tried my best to speed up through those parts. Anyway, Glad you enjoyed the series. We had a lot of fun!!!!!!
A speed wrench is great! You just need to get the socket on, and just hold the top of the handle, and make it spin aka "dance" the bolt out. Much faster and fun :)
That sounds like it is going to have "Crazy Power". Hope you have a source for cheap tires... your going to need a bunch of them! Good luck with that project!
Hi UCanDoIt2 - did the LS Cylinder heads where the studs broke on the exhaust manifolds when you removed the bolts did it pull the threads in the Aluminum Heads? By the way GREAT VIDEO on the LS 5.3L ENGINE!!!
im just wrapping up the afm delete on my 2010 Silverado 5.3 lmg block. I did the cam swap, lifter swap and valley cover swap and had the computer tuned to delete the afm error codes. the kit I got was meant to keep my vvt so its a non afm cam but original type single phaser cam bolt. have a few questions. 1, what oil do I use to break in the parts. 2. the oil is completely drained from the block its all in the pan new oil, how do I go about starting the motor without it running too long without oil. 3.. when I put the old original cam and the new cam together I lined both up to the small stud to align the cam sprocket and noticed the lobes were totally different positions from eachother. I put the cam and sprocket on and aligned with crankshaft sprocket and with the heads and springs lifters back on I rotate the motor and nothing hits so its definitely on right but will it fire correctly since the lobes were in different positions and opening/closing different than original cam? thanks in advance
Awesome Build you have going on there! (1) For BREAKIN OIL, it was recommended to me to use a "Non-Detergent" Oil. I shows what I used in one of the Build Videos. (2) Some people disable the engine form starting and then turn it over many time to allow the oil pump to begin flowing oil. Many people (because they pre-oiled the pump) will just run the engine and allow it to quickly catch up. You should find some way to determine when the system is primed (Valve covers off and inspect is one way). (3) When I first read this one, I said ouch! Because the new Cam is a different grind/spec, you should see a slight different in position when you have both cams next to each other and indexed the same. If they are way off, there could be an issue. I would suggest "Degreeing your Cam". Look that up on TH-cam of Google. There is a process that is not difficult, but somewhat complex where you are Verifying that the Cam is Ground and Installed correctly. I believe that the Gen3 and your Gen4 engines FIRE based on the Crank Shaft Position sensor telling the PCM/ECU when the fire the coils. Great idea to rotate the engine and check for interference. Hope this helps. This was my first Gen3 rebuild, but I learned so much. I would live to see the insides on the VVT on yours! Chees and hope this helps. Maybe someone smarter than both of us can share other opinions. Cheers! Mike
was that a 5.3 or a 4.8 because typically the 5.3 motors have dish top pistons and the 4.8 motors have the flat top pistons. also some blocks can be 4.8 or 5.3
No complex mathematics required. You should consider picking up a good Rebuild manual that describes the steps in detail. Here is the one that I used. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
I know this video is kinda old but just sharing a little trick for busted bolts @8:20 for anyone. Get a die grinder and make a little slit on the end of the bolt sticking out then use a flathead to unscrew it and boom!
Question, I am planning on doing a cam swap on my g8, when I remove the heads to I have to relieved the tension on the springs first, or can I just take them off? Thanks in advance
I would take the Rockers off first. Being that you really need to have them off when you reinstall, it would slightly affect your head torqueing if you tried to leave them on. Make sure you find some way to keep them in order and return them to the same location. I used a 2x4 with drilled hole to organize my push rods. And you can use old Ice trays for the rockers. Once the heads are off there are some rods you can insert into the engine near the cam end plate to hold the lifters up. You rotate the engine once or twice with the rods in place and the lifters will stay in the upward location allowing you to Remove and replace the Cam. There are videos out there for that. I did not use this method due to the nature of my rebuild. Have fun with that!!!!!! Cheers!!!!
I see that your Pushrods for 1,3,5,7 are darker than the even cylinders. Mine were too. Any ideas as to why the odd cylinders have darker color pushrod than the even?
That is interesting. I had not noticed that at the time. I have no idea other than something to do with the flow of Oil through the system reaches that side first (or last) and contains slightly more contaminants. Just guessing.
+UCanDoIt2 yes sir. Im looking to do a top end build, mostly for sound, but wouldn't mind getting between 4-500 horsepower if possible. what would you reccomend to do this?
My build modifications were mostly for sound as well. I'm putting this in a Jeep CJ7 to be mostly streetable. HP was not in my scope. You will either need to start doing some research or find you a good motorhead. Cheers!
I was unsuccessful with the 2 types of 3 jaw pullers. What I used in this video was the large Bearing Separator that is a part of a 2 separator kit from Harbor Freight. I placed the separator behind the balancer and the center threaded portion went against the original Balancer Bolt. Worked great for me!
The Temporary Bolt that I bought is: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092). It is long enough to get good thread depth for the initial part of the installation. I explain most of this in Part 5. Cheers!
hello, I have a question, I'm replacing my castech heads with 862 heads on my 02 Chevy suburban. I will be using the same pushrods and lifters. do I have to follow the same torque sequence you did with the rockers you put on? or would I put the lifter bar back on and torque it down? thanks so much for your time and help!
Edward Thayer You would want to follow a similar process that I did. AND.... you might want to check your pushrods length as a precaution. Since the head is changing, the centerline of the reunion (rocker pivot), could be a different distance from the crank and require a different length pushrod. Just a thought.
I think these things break exhaust manifold is because they are "bottomed out" in the aluminum heads and have no where to expand during a heat cycle. Just my theory though
Idk...seems like it's a common issue with any 4.8 or 5.3 over 50k. Possibly overtorqued manifold bolts from factory plus the heat just weakens the bolts over time. My guess.
I have all the power tools you could ever want. This was a learning project for my sons and I. There was no timeline to get it done! I sped up all the video footage to help make it more enjoyable for you. We wanted the feel of taking it apart. The manual the we followed specifically stated not to use impact wrenches even to take things apart as it can lead to thread damage. Power Tools are for Millennials that don't have any patients.
I have a 1978 Camaro, and want to put an LS engine in my car, ,Which LS engine do you recommend? I will be doing a bit of street racing.. Not a lot, mostly standard driving highway speeds.
If you are wanting a drop in engine with out reconfiguring the front accessories, you should start with something from a Car versus a Truck. Truck Engines (Vortec) are configured tall and narrow, Car engine are configured Low and wide. LS1 and LS6 are probably the most economical. They all are streetable and can be altered for performance.
I believe it is standard practice to change them. There are guys doing budget builds that are not changing them, but its only a $30 kit and the proper time to do it is now. You definitely need to replace the Barbell plug which comes in most kits or can be purchased separately. Hope this helps.
I am using a Canon SLR 7D. It is a curse and a blessing. It produces very rich video, but you have to focus the subject before turning on. Just a step in the process that I always have to remember. Focus before shooting. Thanks for watching.
It was mentioned in several of the videos and is listed in all of the descriptions, but I don't mind listing it again: GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD Enjoy!!!!
2004 5.3 vortec how many coolant sensor port in the head my friend broke the coolant sensor off on the driver side would there be a secondary that I could use broken sensor not leaking
Both the Driver's side and Passenger's Side Heads are Identical. The one that broke off is probably the one on the front of the Driver's side. Check out the same area on near the rear of the Passenger Side. It might currently have a plug in it. Just remove the plug insert a Temp Sensor and then relocate (or extend) the wire with the connector.
Love the old school manual wrenching , everybody uses uses power tools now.
LOVE this comment!!!! To date, I have received 5+ comments suggesting that I should have used Impact wrenches and other power tools. First off... I have 2 Air Impact Wrenches and a Cordless one as well. The manual that I followed mentioned that many people destroy the end threads of Bolts and Holes. It suggested not using them. My thought was... Cool I breakout the old Speed Wrench and have some fun. We weren't in any hurry... If we were, we wouldn't have filmed and edited it (adding to the timeline 4 fold!!!!). Damn... I sped up those boring parts and trimmed the duplications! Just goes to show that you can't please everyone. Especially the Online Keyboard Mechanics. Their videos are perfect!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike will agree impact guns can do damage removing bolts especially in aluminum do to the speed... i do however like to use air ratchets... still faster than hand but wont sit there free spinning the bolt on the threads under pressure... not a complaint just a thought for others who may not know better... and ill admit i do things different for work vs my personal projects(for pleasure).. sometimes its just more fun to take your time
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yeah, I've never understood the need for folks to say "You should use power tools". I mean, would I use them? Absolutely! But this is YOUR project, not anyone else's so I can respect your decision on not using power tools. Damn good point though on boogering up the threads upon removal with an impact. It's something that I'll definitely keep in mind for the future...
With that logic why do you drive a car. You should walk since everyone uses cars to get around these days lol
Work smarter not harder.
A ot of time on his hands.
I wanted to comment about how there's no music just work and I appreciate it..
.and also its best to ues hand tools and torque wrenchs when working on engines. Facts
FLP Media I get so many comments that I should be using impact pneumatic tools.. blah blah blah. To many people rush through this and often do unnecessary damage. Thank you!!!!
Learning a lot already about the LM7 I've got in my truck by watching these!
Thanks for watching! Cool stuff!
Love to see you and your son's, "I think", learning from we old motorheads of the South! Super. Loved the old school way! I'm 58, and have cool tools too, amassed since I got infected, with my first car at 12! (61 Bug) But you are "one with the project", and surprisingly, might get more accomplished. Appreciate the clarity and lack of cussing. It can be done. Save those up and spend them when needed!, LOL Take Care Lee, N FL
I love this project as it does provide a means for me and my sons to work together and spend time together. Cheers... Mike
Great video...i like how you can actually hear the wrenches turning and not just music...very informative....
We have done many jeep swaps over the years installing 351 efi winsor ford, 350 carbed chevy and also did a 360 efi magnum mopar in the past. They all did fantastic plenty of power and lasted thru the abuse. One of the best swaps we did was taking a flipped 96 f-250 4x4 7.3 diesel standard trans with only 30 k on it shorting the frame and sit a 94 bronco body on the modded chassis. we gave the 7.3 a stage 2 cam higher flowing injectors bigger turbo and a intercooler that was not standard in 96 That was supposed to bring it to the 500 hp huge torque range, never dyno'ed as the twisted drive shafts and broken yokes proved the power ... That bronco was a beast that would not stop after having non hollow drive shafts built and it brought big big bucks on ebay.
Love them ole Broncos. And I have a friend that is driving a 99s F-250 with a 7.3 and manual trans. Really fun to drive.
Well made video and just enough of an explanation not to bore the more experienced among us. I'm a newbie and have ambitions of swapping an LS into my GM400 pickup. It's a project I have had waiting for several years. In the meantime, I'm learning as much as I can from videos like yours. So thanks, and keep up the good work.
Cheers and have fun with your project!
This makes me realize why engine rebuilding is so expensive! The time it takes is crazy. My ADD would kick in and i’d be done. Good job you guys
How does anyone dislike this kind of content? 🤷🏽♂️Thanks updloader👍🏾
Thank you Jason. Glad you enjoyed it.
Great vid Mike. That engine looks like a great rebuild candidate. Looking forward to the rebuild. Also your son's are learning alot and will cherish these times when they are older. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Russ. This has been a great experience so far for the boys!
Sprayberry you’re not that far from me! Good job guys. Me and my son just pulled the heads off our 5.3 yesterday.
Sweet! Are you putting your 5.3 into something interesting? Cheers!
watching this is therapy. Sometimes doing the work and it doesnt go well can lead to swearing.
Swearing is a part of the process.... embrace it!!!! Mike
I love how you give support to other channels. And your videos are super informative. Thanks!
This is the greatest platform to share! I have learned as much as I have shared and always happy to help. Cheers to you and thank you for the kind words. Mike
Thanks for the shout out. I am also picking up some good tips from you. I like the ice tray for lifter storage and the 2X4 for push rods. I'll do that next time. Ive used an old shoe box with holes poked in the lid before. Awesome tear down video!
This is such a great platform to share information. I had ordered a couple of trays for the teardown but they were going to be delivered several days after I realized that I wanted to perform the teardown. So I cancelled and made my own.
Sam's Garage I thought the ice tray and the 2x4 were excellent ideas aswell haha!
Yeah I like that idea as well .
I have been watching several videos to try and get the correct info I needed and couldn't get it. These videos never seem to let me down, I got my answer with this video. Well done
Cheers and have fun with your project!!!!
fantastic...great job. That LS engine is a far cry from the small blocks I cut my teeth on. One helluva motor, expertly done. Thank you for your time.
Thank you Clifford!!!! I appreciate you taking the time to leave your well received feedback! Lots of fun!!!!
Clifford Wells I have the 5.3LM7 in my 05 Silverado. It's already at 200,000 miles. I run Mobil 1 5w-30 and it still runs like the day I bought it. GM does a really great job with these engines. I think Ford ran into a lot of problems making the 3v 5.4 too complex, they change things way to often. I like that GM had a really great design and just kept it as is. I've seen some examples with over 500,000 miles and have no doubt mine can go that far. Considering the power these can handle, a stock motor is very understressed. I also like that all the LS series motors are compatible with one another.
I am also digging the good old fashioned elbow grease put in here. I am guilty of using pneumatic tools in my own garage as much as possible. I think they are a very valuable tool for disassembly assembly not so much. Very nice video no idiot bullshiting for hours before even starting and you guys have a nice little shop area there very clean and organized. Its easy to see this isn't your first dog and pony show!!
Love the comment John... Thank you!!! Mike
These are very informative, one of the best LS tear down videos I've seen.
Thank you Mike! My intention was to try to show everything. It was a lot of fun! Cheers...
Thanks for having suitable lighting in your shop. Most video in the dark. Well done!
Thanks for the compliment! I had just installed some new overhead lighting before this project and it did appear to help out. Cheers!!!
Planning on building my lm7 myself this gives me hope as it is more simple than I was expecting great video!
Love it! The purpose of all the details was to give the viewers a look at what it takes so that they can make the decision if it is something for them. Have fun with your build. Mike
862 heads on this 5.3. Not a bad set up. The video was so helpful. I'm shopping for 5.3s now.
Can you bore this over 30 ? That put you up there at 5. 7 ? Get 400 hp
Estebahn Randolph depends on if it’s an iron block or aluminum and what generation LS.
For broken bolts if the vise grips dont work you can always file the sides and put a socket on it. You probably already knew but figured id inform! So far loving the series keep it up.
Skids OG always good to share options. Cheers. Mike
I have watched all of your videos and wow they are awesome hat's off to you you have really helped me on my build I have the same engine thanks and remember put God first and everything else last
Glad you have found the video series helpful! It was a very fun project. Have fun with yours!!!
Reminds me ofmy step-dad.... No air tools, just turn wrenches, and getr done. He was so old school... Hed change tires off rims, with an iron bar, an long pry bars.... And a sledge hammer. Hed rather do it himself, and save money.
Earl Scaanlon Sometimes, it’s worth slowing down so that you can smell the roses!!!! 🌹
Thank you sir; thoroughly enjoying the step by step video series.
Thanks again. Cheers and have fun with your projects.
As satisfying as it was to see the head bolts get taken off by hand till they came out, I had anxiety that the head could of possibly slid off brother!
That is why they have Dowel Pins. Kind of makes it dummy proof. They are good for alignment and knuckleheads.
Thank you for the complete series.
Glad you enjoyed... Cheers!
Really appreciate you uploading this vid.
I just picked up a 4.8 that needs rebuilding and I am literally going to follow everything you just did here.
Big Thumbs up!!
Hey... Thank for the message. I highly recommend the following softback book: "How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines" by Chris Werner. I found it on Amazon: amzn.to/2g3xXNl for about $20. I would not be hard to teardown an engine without it, but there are so many pieces of information that are really nice to know. Just got my parts back from the machine shop and plan on starting on the bottom end tomorrow. Best of luck with your build. Keep in touch!
You can bore the 4.8 to a 5.3 as well. They were the exact same block which is sweet :)
yes sir play by play just like you're in school thank you for the video
👍👏👏👏 I like how you use the old method to check the pushrods to see if they were bent my man
Seems like a good idea so that if one is bent, you know where is came from and you could investigate that cylinder further. Cheers!!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike yes sir I always use that trick very good method and it works let me ask you this why did you use dry Bulls twerking down the mains I thought you had to dip oil at the tip of the bolts and then twerking down
@@oillife2115 During the final assembly, i placed a small amount of oil on the main cap around the holes. That may or may not have made the final cut of this series.
I got a 1975 chevy nova I got going, I built a 350 for it and am soon to get it running, but my plan is while driving it with the 350 I'll be building a ls1 for it, so these videos help a lot to show me what I'll be up against
Love this comment!!!!! This was not a "How to" series as there are some many options and choices that you can take. The purpose of this series was to show a base-line of the step required to do this. In your words, " Show you what you're up against". Awesome!!! And it sounds like you have a great plan!!!!
Reese Garcia
Nice video all by hand no power/air tools
OvRdoSe69 Thank you! The manual that I was following suggest that many people with impact wrenches distort the threads of bolts and in the block. We decided to go old school. We were not in a time crunch. You can’t be if you are going to video tape the activity. Glad you enjoyed it.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I agree they rip the threads out and distort all the fasteners. GREAT Work!!!
Amazing video A lot of effort and work its not easy at all to disassemble this engine imagine how hard it is to put it back together
Thank you for the kind words. Glad you are enjoying the videos! Good luck with all your projects!!!!
The LS is such a great advanced over the small block Chevy..
The cathedral ports.. and the mains are really 6 bolt main..
Don't see many spun main bearings... good video
Very well said! Cheers to you David!!!! Mike
When doing head bolts good or bad I always soak them an then tap the heads with a hammer. Haven’t broken a head bolt in years since doing that.
Never use impacts either. Always use breaker bars. Hammering shocked the threads and usually loosens the crap holding them on like rust and grime.
Not sure how I missed this original comment. I agree with hammering, breaker bars, and staying away from Impacts. It's hard to convince today's crowd on some of these items as they are so driven to get things done fast. It is always best to do it right. Cheers!
Great video a couple of tips for the harmonic balancer you should always use a 3 jaw puller to remove a LS balancer. When removing the cam use a couple of the long water pump bolts in the cam as a handle to help you remove and install the cam.
Justin Thurman very good points. I had seen many time people using the water pump bolts for the cam. The manual that I was following suggested the method I used, so I thought I would give it a try. Cheers!
I love your makeshift breaker bar. That really cracked me up
Thanks for the great video.....for some reason no one has been able to tell me with validity why are the pushrods and rockers typically put in a box or off to the side with same sequence they are removed from an engine if they all are identically sized in every way???
The theory is that all contact parts in a rotating assembly wear and create mating surfaces. In the event that you plan to reuse these types of parts, you would want to pair up the original parts that have already mated themselves together.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike okay thanks so much for the detailed clarification and speedy reply
@ 14:10 when I do this, my crank turns and all pistons move freely. Are you using something on the south side of the engine to hold it in place?
Yes! The original Flex Plate (which I do not plan to use) is still mounted on the crankshaft. I am using a very large flat blade screw drive and creating leverage against one of the Engine Stand mounting sleeves.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Perfect. (Duh, why didn't I think of that). Thank you a million times for this video series, you are the best! I'm tearing down an LM7 I just found on Sunday.
Love these videos! Exactly what I needed. Going to do this exact same build for my 65 c10.
Very very Cool! You will have fun! Absolutely love that Truck!!!!! Cheers!
great video
I don't know if it has been stated yet, but to get the lifters out, you remove timing chain and turn cam Counter or normal clockwise one turn, that pushes the lifters up and locks them and allows you to remove each lifter tray with lifters in one operation. Its what I have seen, explained with demonstrated.
Mark Torre I had also seen that process and should have tried it. But I am not sure it would have helped in my case. The lifters would slide out slightly (normal travel) then get stuck. Great observation.
If you've ever broken off a bolt/stud on removal (even just once) you will then use penetrant solution, and the impact wrench. There is something about the rapid "machine gun" slapping action that will break the rusty bolt loose,compared to a long pipe on a breaker bar that simply breaks the head off.
here in the north every one of those nuts and bolts would be seized on hahaha.
these videos will defiently help me out. im going from a 358ci sbc NA motor to a turbo 5.3, need all the help I can get lol
Awesome!!!! Have fun with your project!!!!
Go Dawgs!
Excellent vid
Heck yeah!!!! Always... Go Dawgs! Cheers... Mike!
VERY WELL DONE. THUMBS UP FOR INVOLVIBG YOUR FAMILY
Thank you!!!!!! The boys have learned a lot. Most importantly... not to be afraid to study and tackle something new!!!!! Cheers
I agree with you on the Kroil, it is the best at penetrating. 👍
Really good stuff. Used a little again tonight. Cheers!!!
water pump bolts are the perfect handle for a camshaft removal!
Thank you for the video. I wish I knew where the long bolts from the oil pan came from. My motor came without oil pan. I wonder if yall rebuild transmissions on this page
The long bolts are something that you could pick up from a salvage yard. I did rebuild an AX15 5 speed transmission on this channel as a part of my current Jeep restoration project. There is a Playlist with the videos in that series. Here is a link... th-cam.com/play/PLo32GavtEb9RA78vGwpiFwhXSvIvHdmPG.html
go dawgs number one right now #1
Tony Cash always.... Go Dawgs!!!!!!! Glory to ole Georgia!!!!
UCanDoIt2 I. Take,it you a ga boy like me ,...,me, hail from Fayetteville .,
Tony Cash Yea, Been a huge fan for many years. And my oldest recently transferred there. Get chucked up every time I hear The Battle Hymn. Cheers!
Engine looked like it was in good shape and good amount of life left in it, other then that thankyou for the detailed and informed video :D
Derm Harse Glad you enjoyed. It was a fun build.
I can't wait to modify mine. I have all the power tools. My mechanic told me the 5.3's last 300k and has never changed a timing chain.
They are good engines.
At 6:58 could I used a cordless impact socket ranch to take the intake manifold bolts off? And what manifold bolts do you recommend that I use?
You can use Air and Electric tools to do all this work. The manual warned of damaging threads when you're not careful. We elected the "Country Road" tour. Removal... Yes, I would not use one to install. Check with Summit on the manifold bolts.
I don’t really know why but knock sensors always have that ding water In them
I agree... I have seen other rebuild video where they have needed to drain water out of the Knock Sensor pockets. I guess someone is overwashing their engines!
Just discovered your channel, great content! Also figured I'd share a little trick I have learned with getting the cam out. The water pump bolts are longer but are the same size and thread pitch so you can screw those into the cam to make a little handle to help with pulling it and putting one in. I noticed you were using your speed wrench.
I had heard that and when I attempted to do that, the bolts did not screw in. I have a feeling I was using the wrong bolts. The little guidance manual that I have mentioned an extension or rod down the middle, so that is what I used. It will state that it was not the best method. When the Cam came out far enough, you can see that I abandoned the speed wrench! Awesome and thanks for sharing!!!!
Any update on the Jeep? Do you have it running? Love these videos man. I’m thinking of doing this exact same thing. But with a bigger cam.
Just published Episode 26 last night! Give it a watch!!!
Молодцы!!!
Спасибо
You will probably get to this later in the video or something, but it is really important to stamp numbers on the rod caps and the main caps so you know what cap goes with what rod and main location.
junglejonny1000 the bores for the crank and rods are line bored perfectly linear. If you mismatch the rod and main caps, some could be just a tad different and the oil clearance between the bearings could be slightly off causing hotspots if too tight or vibration/knocking at high RPM if too loose. ALWAYS keep any valvetrain and rotating assembly parts in order if you plan on reusing them, they’ve been worn to that specific cylinder and should return to their homes. 😁👍🏻
New subscriber!!! Love the video!!!
I appreciate you following along! Not sure how I originally missed your comment. Cheers and have fun with all of your projects!!!! Mike
Well I just had to see what you did on the do it channel lol. Buddy this is awesome , right up my alley. Well done. 👍👍
Thank you Steve! I was just down cleaning some parts. Later tonight, I am planning to watch more of your vids. Bottoms up!
I have NO desire to do this ....... but damn this is fascinating .... subbed!
Too funny.... Thanks for watching... Cheers!
Great to see how you've included your son's.
Thank you... Probably the best part of the build... Quality time with the Boys!
What you mean when u said standing water around knock sensor u saying it’s water around there just taking everything u say carefully
When I lifted the Knock Sensor caps off, there was standing water around the Knock Sensors themselves. Under the Intake Manifold there is an open space. Water (Rain, Washing the engine) can get into this space. If allowed, it can seep past the KS covers and land on top of the KS. This typically should not happen, but the setup will allow it. This probably is the reason many KS go bad. They short out from water penetration. This is why I put the silicone damn on mine.
Ok and when u set the rockers to top dead center it has to be dead in the middle not a inch off
Not sure what you are asking or stating here. When you tighten down the Rockers... you need that lifter on the base circle. The method I use will do that. It has nothing to do with a cylinder being at Top Dead Center.
Yes sorry for the confusion but yea I was talking about setting the timing
good tutorial. you need some air tools though!
I appreciate that! I have Air tools. The manual that I was following made a good point on damage to threads when using air tools, so I elected not to. I did try to speed those section up for your entertainment!!!!! Thanks!
the speed up looked cool, but i was mainly referring to the removal/tear down for air tools. I never use them for installation. good work regardless
Interestingly, the book mentioned that people using air tools often bare down to ensure staying on the nut or bolt head and that if they continue to bare down when the threads reach the top, they bugger (technical term) up those top threads. I wasn't in a hurry and decided to go at it old school. It was fun with the boys.
Would it be beneficial to do a compression test prior to complete strip down and rebuild? Or do we assume you will be able to see/correct any issues related to compression when the machine shop gets it?
My thoughts.... If you have (or have access to borrow) the equipment to do a compression test, it would be a neat thing to do. If it identifies a bad cylinder, you can focus a little attention to that area and critique it for the cause of the issue as you are tearing the engine down. Ultimately, it will not have much bearing on the outcome as any leak around the rings is going to be resolved with the Bore/Hone and new Rings. Any leak in the heads (valve seating and valve stems) will be resolved if you are having the head rebuilt. If you were to do a preliminary compression test and the result indicated Great compress, it may influence some of your choices during the machining process, especially on a budget build. Cheers!
magnaflux than block and heads to see if you need a sleeve.
Will not matter..machinists are notorious for ignoring every word we tell them :)) rightfully so in most cases.
These videos are so informative but I swear I want to throw that damn speed wrench against your shop wall
Richard Olsen oh come on.... you have to allow us to pretend to be an old school auto shop. It allowed us to become “one with project”. I tried my best to speed up through those parts. Anyway, Glad you enjoyed the series. We had a lot of fun!!!!!!
I agree with Richard. Electric power tool are cheap now days
A speed wrench is great! You just need to get the socket on, and just hold the top of the handle, and make it spin aka "dance" the bolt out. Much faster and fun :)
Why was there so much oil in it when you turn the engine over, didn't you drain it first?
Some Oil and quite a bit of Coolant was caught in various areas of the inner block.
Great job guys!!!
these videos are amazing love the detail
Thank you Frank. I appreciate the feedback. Best of luck with your projects!
UCanDoIt2 I'm actually building a twin turbo lm7 86 buick regal your videos are gonna help alot I'll stay tuned in!
That sounds like it is going to have "Crazy Power". Hope you have a source for cheap tires... your going to need a bunch of them! Good luck with that project!
How many miles were on this motor when you guys got it? im curious. My 5.3 has almost 300k and i was thinking about doing a full rebuild.
Mine had about 180K.
Hi UCanDoIt2 - did the LS Cylinder heads where the studs broke on the exhaust manifolds when you removed the bolts did it pull the threads in the Aluminum Heads? By the way GREAT VIDEO on the LS 5.3L ENGINE!!!
All three of the broken Exhaust Manifold bolts came out cleanly. Not sure why the heads were broken off.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you for replying GREAT VIDEO series the LS engines and GM small blocks are the BEST!
Hi do u know the name of the part u started to remove at 3:16 I need to replace mine it's leaking, tnkz
That is the Steam Vents. There are gaskets that can be replaced or entire kits for tubing and all.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks was able to find the ls steam replacement tubes, aftermarkt but worked.
ps: thank u for your time
im just wrapping up the afm delete on my 2010 Silverado 5.3 lmg block. I did the cam swap, lifter swap and valley cover swap and had the computer tuned to delete the afm error codes. the kit I got was meant to keep my vvt so its a non afm cam but original type single phaser cam bolt. have a few questions. 1, what oil do I use to break in the parts. 2. the oil is completely drained from the block its all in the pan new oil, how do I go about starting the motor without it running too long without oil. 3.. when I put the old original cam and the new cam together I lined both up to the small stud to align the cam sprocket and noticed the lobes were totally different positions from eachother. I put the cam and sprocket on and aligned with crankshaft sprocket and with the heads and springs lifters back on I rotate the motor and nothing hits so its definitely on right but will it fire correctly since the lobes were in different positions and opening/closing different than original cam? thanks in advance
Awesome Build you have going on there! (1) For BREAKIN OIL, it was recommended to me to use a "Non-Detergent" Oil. I shows what I used in one of the Build Videos. (2) Some people disable the engine form starting and then turn it over many time to allow the oil pump to begin flowing oil. Many people (because they pre-oiled the pump) will just run the engine and allow it to quickly catch up. You should find some way to determine when the system is primed (Valve covers off and inspect is one way). (3) When I first read this one, I said ouch! Because the new Cam is a different grind/spec, you should see a slight different in position when you have both cams next to each other and indexed the same. If they are way off, there could be an issue. I would suggest "Degreeing your Cam". Look that up on TH-cam of Google. There is a process that is not difficult, but somewhat complex where you are Verifying that the Cam is Ground and Installed correctly. I believe that the Gen3 and your Gen4 engines FIRE based on the Crank Shaft Position sensor telling the PCM/ECU when the fire the coils. Great idea to rotate the engine and check for interference. Hope this helps. This was my first Gen3 rebuild, but I learned so much. I would live to see the insides on the VVT on yours! Chees and hope this helps. Maybe someone smarter than both of us can share other opinions. Cheers! Mike
Love the ls series so simple yet so perfect.
Really good video.
Mike, make sure to measure the thickness of those bearings just to make sure they're still in spec for thickness though.
Those bearings are going to the trash. The new bearings are in match the finished and polished crank and rods. Going to be sweet!
was that a 5.3 or a 4.8 because typically the 5.3 motors have dish top pistons and the 4.8 motors have the flat top pistons. also some blocks can be 4.8 or 5.3
My engine is an LM7 5.3L. The block has 4.8/5.3 embossed on it as this block casting was used for both displacements. Hope that helps!!!
that's what I was thinking since it had the flat top pistons in it
Great video thank you so much
bueno el video esta perfesto me gustaria berlo en espanol
Gracias Señor. Me alegro de que hayas disfrutado del video.
Does rebuild require any complex mathematics? Or just know how?? Nice vid!!!
No complex mathematics required. You should consider picking up a good Rebuild manual that describes the steps in detail. Here is the one that I used. GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
Thanks for your time!!!! Nice work 👍
I know this video is kinda old but just sharing a little trick for busted bolts @8:20 for anyone. Get a die grinder and make a little slit on the end of the bolt sticking out then use a flathead to unscrew it and boom!
Question, I am planning on doing a cam swap on my g8, when I remove the heads to I have to relieved the tension on the springs first, or can I just take them off? Thanks in advance
I would take the Rockers off first. Being that you really need to have them off when you reinstall, it would slightly affect your head torqueing if you tried to leave them on. Make sure you find some way to keep them in order and return them to the same location. I used a 2x4 with drilled hole to organize my push rods. And you can use old Ice trays for the rockers. Once the heads are off there are some rods you can insert into the engine near the cam end plate to hold the lifters up. You rotate the engine once or twice with the rods in place and the lifters will stay in the upward location allowing you to Remove and replace the Cam. There are videos out there for that. I did not use this method due to the nature of my rebuild. Have fun with that!!!!!! Cheers!!!!
I see that your Pushrods for 1,3,5,7 are darker than the even cylinders. Mine were too. Any ideas as to why the odd cylinders have darker color pushrod than the even?
That is interesting. I had not noticed that at the time. I have no idea other than something to do with the flow of Oil through the system reaches that side first (or last) and contains slightly more contaminants. Just guessing.
Do ls engines lean either way slightly?
I learned the hard way. Take the rear crank seal bolts off BEFORE you put it on the stand lol.
Yea... It get tight back there! That part was slow going...
How much horsepower and torque did this build make for you?
This engine has not been installed in its swap vehicle yet. Even when it does, I doubt I will run it on a Dyno.
+UCanDoIt2 yes sir. Im looking to do a top end build, mostly for sound, but wouldn't mind getting between 4-500 horsepower if possible. what would you reccomend to do this?
My build modifications were mostly for sound as well. I'm putting this in a Jeep CJ7 to be mostly streetable. HP was not in my scope. You will either need to start doing some research or find you a good motorhead. Cheers!
+UCanDoIt2 thank you sir. love these videos. I watch them over and over. very informative.
@@MrCmcmanus59, UCanDoit2, Haha gtfoh I am doing my for sound as well Hahahah!
Very glad I found this playlist. What kind of camera are you using?
In this series, I used a Canon EOS 7D. I have since upgraded to a Canon 80D with the ability to continuous focus in video mode.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks for the reply. I'm looking forward to watching the rest of this series.
What did you use to pull the balancer? Also how did you position that piece inside it to pull it? It's not a traditional 4 arm puller correct?
I was unsuccessful with the 2 types of 3 jaw pullers. What I used in this video was the large Bearing Separator that is a part of a 2 separator kit from Harbor Freight. I placed the separator behind the balancer and the center threaded portion went against the original Balancer Bolt. Worked great for me!
UCanDoIt2 oh that's very interesting. Also I know someone already asked you but what size bolt did you get to install the new balancer
The Temporary Bolt that I bought is: M16 x 2.0 x 120mm (Fastenal # 11127092). It is long enough to get good thread depth for the initial part of the installation. I explain most of this in Part 5. Cheers!
the 4.8/5.3 blocks, when you have a dished head piston, isnt it a 4.8? i was told that and a 5.3 has flat tops...?
Hard North Outdoors any Gen IV 5.3 has flat tops.
Great video man
Thank you Fernando!
hello, I have a question, I'm replacing my castech heads with 862 heads on my 02 Chevy suburban. I will be using the same pushrods and lifters. do I have to follow the same torque sequence you did with the rockers you put on? or would I put the lifter bar back on and torque it down? thanks so much for your time and help!
Edward Thayer You would want to follow a similar process that I did. AND.... you might want to check your pushrods length as a precaution. Since the head is changing, the centerline of the reunion (rocker pivot), could be a different distance from the crank and require a different length pushrod. Just a thought.
UCanDoIt2 thanks so much for your time and help! how would I check to make sure the pushrod length will work?
Thank you sir 👍
Power tools?????
from kuwait like for you
This makes me smile!!!!! Thank you!!!
It’s the golden buildup of caked on oil that is causing the lifters to want to stick. Very common.
Carb cleaner in a can!
I think these things break exhaust manifold is because they are "bottomed out" in the aluminum heads and have no where to expand during a heat cycle. Just my theory though
Idk...seems like it's a common issue with any 4.8 or 5.3 over 50k. Possibly overtorqued manifold bolts from factory plus the heat just weakens the bolts over time. My guess.
Cheap quality factory bolts. Grade 8 ARP studs torqued correctly will last.
What's the reason for not using any power tools?
I have all the power tools you could ever want. This was a learning project for my sons and I. There was no timeline to get it done! I sped up all the video footage to help make it more enjoyable for you. We wanted the feel of taking it apart. The manual the we followed specifically stated not to use impact wrenches even to take things apart as it can lead to thread damage. Power Tools are for Millennials that don't have any patients.
I have a 1978 Camaro, and want to put an LS engine in my car, ,Which LS engine do you recommend? I will be doing a bit of street racing.. Not a lot, mostly standard driving highway speeds.
If you are wanting a drop in engine with out reconfiguring the front accessories, you should start with something from a Car versus a Truck. Truck Engines (Vortec) are configured tall and narrow, Car engine are configured Low and wide. LS1 and LS6 are probably the most economical. They all are streetable and can be altered for performance.
Did you replace any of your freeze plugs? Why or why not?
All of the plugs where replaced at the machine shop.
UCanDoIt2 I did not have any intentions on replacing them. Do you believe it is a necessary step?
I believe it is standard practice to change them. There are guys doing budget builds that are not changing them, but its only a $30 kit and the proper time to do it is now. You definitely need to replace the Barbell plug which comes in most kits or can be purchased separately. Hope this helps.
Great video. Liked and subsibed. What camera are you using to record these videos?
I am using a Canon SLR 7D. It is a curse and a blessing. It produces very rich video, but you have to focus the subject before turning on. Just a step in the process that I always have to remember. Focus before shooting. Thanks for watching.
I may have missed it somewhere but I'm curious what book you have for the rebuild specs? Awesome videos by the way great job!
It was mentioned in several of the videos and is listed in all of the descriptions, but I don't mind listing it again: GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD Enjoy!!!!
Thanks. I just started watching tonight so didn't pay attention to the descriptions yet. Appreciate it.
Not a problem at all... There is a lot of good/additional information in this and many of the other books that I have browsed through. Cheers!
I’ve heard some guys say if you aren’t bleeding you must not be working. By the end of this video it looked like you were working!
Bob Jinkle That’s too funny. Cheers!
2004 5.3 vortec how many coolant sensor port in the head my friend broke the coolant sensor off on the driver side would there be a secondary that I could use broken sensor not leaking
Both the Driver's side and Passenger's Side Heads are Identical. The one that broke off is probably the one on the front of the Driver's side. Check out the same area on near the rear of the Passenger Side. It might currently have a plug in it. Just remove the plug insert a Temp Sensor and then relocate (or extend) the wire with the connector.
UCanDoIt2 Thank you so much for the great advise have a great day