Thank you for watching.... A list of parts and tools that I used during the rebuild of this AMC 20 Axles is listed on my Amazon Associates Store: www.amazon.com/shop/influencer-8c6a35f2 Give-Away winner: James Mack
I believe that they would be fundamentally the same if not exactly. The internals of all Dana 30 cases should be the same. The differences would be found in tube and axle lengths, mounting perch options and the various outer end types. Yours should be the Narrow Track option which would be the exact same axle as mine.
Good job. On those rusty nuts sometimes they need to be red hot. I had a diff fill plug that would not budge until red hot. I had it out many times and lubed it each time. How it got that way I'll never know
I have to laugh when you talk about corrosion. The outer face of your spindle is bare metal…here in New England the dust shield completely rots away within 5 years! 😅
How did you like the finish of the POR 15? I believe it is a very good product, but every time I see someone use it, they brush it on and it does not seem to level out. That is probably the only thing that keeps me from using it. And maybe my observations are completely incorrect. Cheers! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Hi! I must say my experience has been totally different. It ALWAYS levels out for me to a very smooth surface. I discovered pour 15 by accident and it's a fantastic product, correct prepping is of course always Key, just remember to follow the steps and use the mask!😁
This is the Black Diamond. I believe it is there medium grade. The bag has black writing. The cheap Harbor Freight Blaster and the upgraded Nozzle that I showed is a winning combo. I used to despise this machine! Now it is very rewarding to work with. Still requires a hose bath to gain entry to the house.... sayes the boss (Wife). Cheers! Mike
Your videos are the best! I'm going to putting a video library of all your videos. I will be starting my project of my 1978 CJ7 Golden Eagle. Your video's are informative, motivating, and inspiring! Keep up the good work, and thank you!!!! #Project Rowdy
Hello I am following along, have a 85 CJ7 that is torn down to the frame and going back together. I just started the Dana 30 front and now about the same place you are with this video. Love the insights, cannot wait to see your next one. I was expecting a crush sleeve but had a pile of shims on the pinion instead. I see yours is the same so watching for your next in series. take care.
Awesome! The next video is almost ready. And yes, the Dana 30 does not use a crush sleeve. It uses small diameter shims to manage the spacing and preload on the pinion bearings. Thanks for following along. Mike
This is a great series on # Project Rowdy Mike keep up the good work I have been watching since video 12 when I found your channel for my LM7 5.3 I put in my 87 YJ
Awesome! Sounds like yours is finished. I appreciate you following along. Correcting your keychain entry with (jdwr250 #ProjectRowdy). Cheer to you Sir! Mike
I love your show I watch it all the time I have a 1983 jeep CJ 7 I bought one brand new back in 1983 so I was lucky enough to find one today and I love it and I’ve been working on it a lot. I have so much work to do to it but I wanted to say thanks for all your help you are very knowledgeable and explain everything as you go, and you said to mention project, rowdy and hashtag and something else I couldn’t remember for the keychain anyway, my name is Steve. Thank you.
It is awesome that your have decided to return to the Jeep ownership group. Such fun vehicles. Thanks for watching and the feedback. Have fun with yours! Mike
Thanks for the key chain and stickers! A tip for pulling the cotter pin, similar to how you did with the needle nose using leverage I use side cutters and grab a fresh bite each time. I also picked up bolt buster induction tool It has been very handy in the right circumstances. Keep the videos coming.
You might want to consider making the holes in the brake dust shield a little bigger! Why they are not a little bigger is beyond me! You almost have to destroy them sometimes to get them off! Doing a great job as always Mike!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video as always... trying to get motivated to get back on my jeep after a year hiatus from getting burned out. Videos like this help so thank you.
It’s gonna sound a little silly, but go clean up the area around your Jeep. Then find one thing to work on. We need to get these beasts back on the road. Mike
Mike....nice job bud........text book & thorough. I've been a welder all my life and started playing with it when I was in my single digits. I come from a family of welders and back then obviously, it was all stick. Over the years I've done a bunch of axles and there's a process to it regarding cast metal & heat. Preheating and a long slow cooling is the ticket. Although I have 3 mig welders, as well as a stick, I primarily use my stick for such jobs when doing a full weld up. For doing just the plug welds on the housing (like you did) a mig is fine. I'm like you, I don't need the full weld up as I'm not doing the rock crawling or high level stress some do, or need. The complete axles I've done were full weld tubes and trusses and were bulletproof. I started chuckling when I saw the Harbor Freight sand blaster......yep, same here. For the little bit of blasting I do, I bought one too......and I had to do the same upgrades to get it to work right. Blasting media has gone out of sight and I don't use it much anymore, but it's still there if I need it. Again....nice job !
Thanks Bob! My father had an Arc Welder as I grew up. My older brother and father were very efficient at stick welding. It was pushed into a corner and I never really had a need to use/learn. For me, the MIG is a great option for the thin panel work and non-structural work that I mostly tackle. The HF blaster is an awesome tool to have.... Just be prepared for the wife to make you shower off outside before entering the house! Cheers... Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yep, all good Mike. My step dad was a professional welder for a living, working for a commercial trucking repair chain (Fruehauf). He'd repair semi trailers and tankers daily and all they welded with back then was stick. With the early advent of mig many many years ago, he use to say that "if you can weld well with a stick, you can weld well with anything". In other words although the process is somewhat similar with all welding, the stick feed is harder to master. Back in the day, we had to use it for everything.....heavy steel, sheet metal, etc., but nowadays I only use it for heavier frame work due to it's deeper penetration qualities. That said though, the higher power migs are closing in more & more. I have my mig's set up for various uses or ease of use. One for body tin, one for medium steel, and one big floor model for heavier stuff.......a lot easier than switching back & forth all the time. Oh yeah btw......you get real crappy sand blasting.....it takes you a couple showers to get the media out of your hair, ears, and other unmentionable areas lol....even with a blasting helmet on.
I just use a die grinder to remove races like the one on the pinion. Just be careful and don’t get into the back side. Once I am almost through a hammer and chisel will sit it and it’s out in a minute or two.
Probably not a good chance, since I don't own that model Jeep. I believe your easiest route to success would be to find a replacement housing. So many people are swapping axles and the originals become available. Best of luck with your journey. Mike
Good stuff. I see one of those pot blasters in my future. I haven’t seen a better way to clean up the axles than that. Thx for the tip on the nozzle upgrade. #ProjectRowdy
The blasting went a lot faster than I had previously experienced. I was surprised. I should have included some real time footage. The biggest thing was not having to shake the pot every 5 seconds after the first 2 minutes of blasting. That Nozzle corrects the media flow. I really like it. Cheers to you Reggie!
Hi Do you need some great lighting for your car to help you better driving, off-road? We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20 year and we're looking for sponsorship!
I might be interested. My goal is to maintain close to an old school look, while transparently using newer technology. From a lighting perspective, I'm looking for standard EOM look but LED or use of advance technology. Please send me an email with link or product details: UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com And I'll take a look. If it is not a good fit, I will not waste your time. Thank you! Mike
Looks like we may be in this together. Planning to start the Diff and Ring and Pinion setup in the next couple of days. #ProjectRowdy entry for Rlambertnorcal.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike do you know if the axle shafts from a drum break dana 30 are the same as a disc dana 30? I have drum but am going to be getting a disc axle shortly to do my rebuild and may keep the shafts for spare if they work. 🤷♂️
Not sure if I understand your question. If you are asking how to replace a wheel lug bolt…. I would recommend removing the Wheel, the 4-wheel drive selector hub, the brake caliper, the wheel hub (which includes the Rotor). The Wheel Hub and Rotor assembly is what you would be working on. From the backside, the Wheel bolt passes through the Rotor and presses into the hub. This essentially “pins” these two parts together. Hope this helps. Mike
@jamesmack2457 James, You were selected as the winner of the Project Rowdy Keychain for Episode 47. Please contact me at UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com so that I can get your information. Congratulations! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike My first vehicle was a '83 CJ-7. Rebuilt it with my Dad and sadly I sold it for a regular driver. Stupidest thing I ever did! Now I searching for another that I can rebuild with my Kiddos to give them similar memories and knowledge.
Which Shim? If you can tell me the time stamp in the video, it will help me identify which one. I can go measure it, if I don't already have it documented in my notes.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I am not doing a full restore.... I am trying to turn mine in to a diesel off roader.. that would also be a daily driver.. if needed ....
Great video as usual. You are getting real close to the end of # Project Rowdy. Looking forward to seeing it completed, as it has been a long road. Not sure what project will top this one, but sure you’ll figure out something.
Thank you Richard. I am so looking for to it firing up and taking it for a spin. Following this will be "The Mistress"... a 68 Camaro. Fixing your keychain entry with the following (Richard Caton: #ProjectRowdy) Cheers to you! Mike
Not that it matters, but the holes you plug welded are where you place a case spreader when you reassemble the differential. The advantage of using a case spreader is you can get the needed side preload on the carrier bearings without having to pound in the shims. You just spread the case 0.010” and drop everything in once you have backlash set.
You are absolutely correct. That is the purpose for the holes in the housing. I did this for the rear end and did not have much trouble with preloading the bearings. Hoping I will have the same success with this one. Cheers to you Firstdaddy!
Thank you for watching....
A list of parts and tools that I used during the rebuild of this AMC 20 Axles is listed on my Amazon Associates Store: www.amazon.com/shop/influencer-8c6a35f2
Give-Away winner: James Mack
I have a 1975 cj5 L6 232. I wonder if the rebuilds are fundamentally the same.
I believe that they would be fundamentally the same if not exactly. The internals of all Dana 30 cases should be the same. The differences would be found in tube and axle lengths, mounting perch options and the various outer end types. Yours should be the Narrow Track option which would be the exact same axle as mine.
Good job. On those rusty nuts sometimes they need to be red hot. I had a diff fill plug that would not budge until red hot. I had it out many times and lubed it each time. How it got that way I'll never know
Amazing how difficult they can become to remove. Thanks for watching and for the feedback.
I have to laugh when you talk about corrosion. The outer face of your spindle is bare metal…here in New England the dust shield completely rots away within 5 years! 😅
I can't imagine the shortened lifespan of auto parts in New England. Those Dust Shields are very thin. Hoping to be able to reuse mine. Mike
Cool, I coated my metal with Pour 15 first though. Dont wanna revisit the rust removal again..lol
How did you like the finish of the POR 15? I believe it is a very good product, but every time I see someone use it, they brush it on and it does not seem to level out. That is probably the only thing that keeps me from using it. And maybe my observations are completely incorrect. Cheers! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Hi! I must say my experience has been totally different. It ALWAYS levels out for me to a very smooth surface. I discovered pour 15 by accident and it's a fantastic product, correct prepping is of course always Key, just remember to follow the steps and use the mask!😁
Any chance you still have the 3.54 gear set you would want to maybe sell ?
Let me check. I sold either the front or back already. Let me see what I have left.
I do have the 3.54 gear set for this Dana 30. Send me an email to UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com. I can send you some pictures.
What type of sand are you using in the middle of moving and am looking in to getting the sand blaster my self for the new house #ProjectRowdy
This is the Black Diamond. I believe it is there medium grade. The bag has black writing. The cheap Harbor Freight Blaster and the upgraded Nozzle that I showed is a winning combo. I used to despise this machine! Now it is very rewarding to work with. Still requires a hose bath to gain entry to the house.... sayes the boss (Wife). Cheers! Mike
Nice video #ProjectRowdy
its ruff on these older jeeps... you really have to grind to get the views
I agree. Thanks for watching! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike wishing you had put in a diesel at this point,,,, I am fighting with my to make injection pressure...
5:46 Sorry sir, I ask again. What size tool is used to unscrew 2 nuts?
I'm not sure the size, but it is a very cheap (about $12) specialty socket by Omix-Ada. I purchased mine on Amazon... amzn.to/48ozx5t
@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you sir, this is very helpful
Your videos are the best! I'm going to putting a video library of all your videos. I will be starting my project of my 1978 CJ7 Golden Eagle. Your video's are informative, motivating, and inspiring! Keep up the good work, and thank you!!!! #Project Rowdy
I greatly appreciate the incredible compliment. Thank you Wayne! Cheers.... Mike
Hello I am following along, have a 85 CJ7 that is torn down to the frame and going back together. I just started the Dana 30 front and now about the same place you are with this video. Love the insights, cannot wait to see your next one. I was expecting a crush sleeve but had a pile of shims on the pinion instead. I see yours is the same so watching for your next in series. take care.
Awesome! The next video is almost ready. And yes, the Dana 30 does not use a crush sleeve. It uses small diameter shims to manage the spacing and preload on the pinion bearings. Thanks for following along. Mike
This is a great series on # Project Rowdy Mike keep up the good work I have been watching since video 12 when I found your channel for my LM7 5.3 I put in my 87 YJ
Awesome! Sounds like yours is finished. I appreciate you following along. Correcting your keychain entry with (jdwr250 #ProjectRowdy). Cheer to you Sir! Mike
I love your show I watch it all the time I have a 1983 jeep CJ 7 I bought one brand new back in 1983 so I was lucky enough to find one today and I love it and I’ve been working on it a lot. I have so much work to do to it but I wanted to say thanks for all your help you are very knowledgeable and explain everything as you go, and you said to mention project, rowdy and hashtag and something else I couldn’t remember for the keychain anyway, my name is Steve. Thank you.
It is awesome that your have decided to return to the Jeep ownership group. Such fun vehicles. Thanks for watching and the feedback. Have fun with yours! Mike
Thanks for the key chain and stickers! A tip for pulling the cotter pin, similar to how you did with the needle nose using leverage I use side cutters and grab a fresh bite each time. I also picked up bolt buster induction tool It has been very handy in the right circumstances. Keep the videos coming.
Great idea! Cheers to you! Mike.
Mike wanted to thank you very much for the keychain and the stickers! 👏 my favorite channel!👍 thanks again Mike, as always love the video’s!
It is the interaction and support from great people like you that make this fun! Thank you!
You might want to consider making the holes in the brake dust shield a little bigger! Why they are not a little bigger is beyond me! You almost have to destroy them sometimes to get them off! Doing a great job as always Mike!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thanks Jim. And I agree, I can’t believe how difficult it was to pry those dust shields off. Great idea, I’ll open up those holes some.
#projectrowdy
Heck yeah…. You’re in!
Great video as always... trying to get motivated to get back on my jeep after a year hiatus from getting burned out. Videos like this help so thank you.
It’s gonna sound a little silly, but go clean up the area around your Jeep. Then find one thing to work on. We need to get these beasts back on the road. Mike
You do a good job.
I appreciate the feedback. Thank you!
Mike....nice job bud........text book & thorough. I've been a welder all my life and started playing with it when I was in my single digits. I come from a family of welders and back then obviously, it was all stick. Over the years I've done a bunch of axles and there's a process to it regarding cast metal & heat. Preheating and a long slow cooling is the ticket. Although I have 3 mig welders, as well as a stick, I primarily use my stick for such jobs when doing a full weld up. For doing just the plug welds on the housing (like you did) a mig is fine. I'm like you, I don't need the full weld up as I'm not doing the rock crawling or high level stress some do, or need. The complete axles I've done were full weld tubes and trusses and were bulletproof. I started chuckling when I saw the Harbor Freight sand blaster......yep, same here. For the little bit of blasting I do, I bought one too......and I had to do the same upgrades to get it to work right. Blasting media has gone out of sight and I don't use it much anymore, but it's still there if I need it. Again....nice job !
Thanks Bob! My father had an Arc Welder as I grew up. My older brother and father were very efficient at stick welding. It was pushed into a corner and I never really had a need to use/learn. For me, the MIG is a great option for the thin panel work and non-structural work that I mostly tackle. The HF blaster is an awesome tool to have.... Just be prepared for the wife to make you shower off outside before entering the house! Cheers... Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yep, all good Mike. My step dad was a professional welder for a living, working for a commercial trucking repair chain (Fruehauf). He'd repair semi trailers and tankers daily and all they welded with back then was stick. With the early advent of mig many many years ago, he use to say that "if you can weld well with a stick, you can weld well with anything". In other words although the process is somewhat similar with all welding, the stick feed is harder to master. Back in the day, we had to use it for everything.....heavy steel, sheet metal, etc., but nowadays I only use it for heavier frame work due to it's deeper penetration qualities. That said though, the higher power migs are closing in more & more. I have my mig's set up for various uses or ease of use. One for body tin, one for medium steel, and one big floor model for heavier stuff.......a lot easier than switching back & forth all the time. Oh yeah btw......you get real crappy sand blasting.....it takes you a couple showers to get the media out of your hair, ears, and other unmentionable areas lol....even with a blasting helmet on.
I just use a die grinder to remove races like the one on the pinion. Just be careful and don’t get into the back side. Once I am almost through a hammer and chisel will sit it and it’s out in a minute or two.
Sounds like a good plan. Mike
I read somewhere the turbo volvos use a limited slip dana 30. A few modifications and it fits the jeep front diff.
Interesting. Wonder what the width is. I have the narrow track axles and possibly someday might upgrade to something wider.
I believe you just use the carrier ,and your own axles and gears# project rowdy
Any chance of a video repairing a front Dana 30 from a newer Jeep with a bent inner C?
Probably not a good chance, since I don't own that model Jeep. I believe your easiest route to success would be to find a replacement housing. So many people are swapping axles and the originals become available. Best of luck with your journey. Mike
😁👍✌️👌
I think that means you approve. Cheers!
Good stuff. I see one of those pot blasters in my future. I haven’t seen a better way to clean up the axles than that. Thx for the tip on the nozzle upgrade. #ProjectRowdy
The blasting went a lot faster than I had previously experienced. I was surprised. I should have included some real time footage. The biggest thing was not having to shake the pot every 5 seconds after the first 2 minutes of blasting. That Nozzle corrects the media flow. I really like it. Cheers to you Reggie!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike What is the CFM of the air compressor that you are using with that?
It is an Ingersoll Rand 60 Gallon that produce 15.3 CFM at 90 PSI.
Hi Do you need some great lighting for your car to help you better driving, off-road? We're the pro auto lighting manufacturer for nearly 20 year and we're looking for sponsorship!
I might be interested. My goal is to maintain close to an old school look, while transparently using newer technology. From a lighting perspective, I'm looking for standard EOM look but LED or use of advance technology. Please send me an email with link or product details: UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com And I'll take a look. If it is not a good fit, I will not waste your time. Thank you! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike No problem, I do send the email to you. Hopefully we could work something out together:)
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Hi Is there anything you found useful?
Always enjoy your videos Mike.
Thank you very much. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and provide your feedback. Mike
exactly what I am about to try, thanks for the walk through! I want a keychain!
Looks like we may be in this together. Planning to start the Diff and Ring and Pinion setup in the next couple of days.
#ProjectRowdy entry for Rlambertnorcal.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike do you know if the axle shafts from a drum break dana 30 are the same as a disc dana 30? I have drum but am going to be getting a disc axle shortly to do my rebuild and may keep the shafts for spare if they work. 🤷♂️
very nicely documented!
I appreciate the feedback. Hope it helps a few folks!! Mike
Nice work, Mike! #makingdana30greatagain!
Thank you Danny! Cheers.... Mike
how did you remove the rings inside?
Which "Rings"? Is there a Time in the video where you see them?
hello sir, do you have to remove the disc first if one of the wheel bolts is replaced?
Not sure if I understand your question. If you are asking how to replace a wheel lug bolt…. I would recommend removing the Wheel, the 4-wheel drive selector hub, the brake caliper, the wheel hub (which includes the Rotor).
The Wheel Hub and Rotor assembly is what you would be working on. From the backside, the Wheel bolt passes through the Rotor and presses into the hub. This essentially “pins” these two parts together. Hope this helps. Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike @UCanDoIt2Mike . Thank you sir for answering. Does that mean I have to remove the rotor to replace one of the wheel bolts? 😱
Looking great! 👍
Thank you Sir! Cleaned up nicely! Mike
Great breakdown and explanation! #ProjectRowdy
Thank you James! Mike
@jamesmack2457 James, You were selected as the winner of the Project Rowdy Keychain for Episode 47. Please contact me at UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com so that I can get your information. Congratulations! Mike
Awesome video, Man!
I appreciate the feedback Sir!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike My first vehicle was a '83 CJ-7. Rebuilt it with my Dad and sadly I sold it for a regular driver. Stupidest thing I ever did! Now I searching for another that I can rebuild with my Kiddos to give them similar memories and knowledge.
Mike size is that shim?
Which Shim? If you can tell me the time stamp in the video, it will help me identify which one. I can go measure it, if I don't already have it documented in my notes.
I put in a rock road outfitters lift kit in my cj7...
That is what I will be installing my CJ7. Trying to get these axles complete and then cleanup the frame.... Then it all start to go back together.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I am not doing a full restore.... I am trying to turn mine in to a diesel off roader.. that would also be a daily driver.. if needed ....
@@UCanDoIt2Mike you should stop by my channel... the garage might set off an ocd attack.... I don't have space.... lol.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike you are going with the Rocky road. ??
Great video as usual. You are getting real close to the end of # Project Rowdy. Looking forward to seeing it completed, as it has been a long road. Not sure what project will top this one, but sure you’ll figure out something.
Thank you Richard. I am so looking for to it firing up and taking it for a spin. Following this will be "The Mistress"... a 68 Camaro. Fixing your keychain entry with the following (Richard Caton: #ProjectRowdy) Cheers to you! Mike
Not that it matters, but the holes you plug welded are where you place a case spreader when you reassemble the differential. The advantage of using a case spreader is you can get the needed side preload on the carrier bearings without having to pound in the shims. You just spread the case 0.010” and drop everything in once you have backlash set.
You are absolutely correct. That is the purpose for the holes in the housing. I did this for the rear end and did not have much trouble with preloading the bearings. Hoping I will have the same success with this one. Cheers to you Firstdaddy!