I as well am doing a 5.3 Engine rebuild. I stumbled on the Rowdy Project as a Video series to help me with my build. This part 3 was very interesting as I was doing research on a Machine Shop to do the Work to the Block, and provide Pistons, Rods etc. When I met the Machinist for the first time I was impressed. I informed him I saw this project, and wanted to do something similar, and he knew exactly what to do. I highly recommend Coosa Valley Performance for any Machining that you need to have done. Mike, I also appreciate all of your input to my project as well. Thank you.
Sandy Randall Awesome to hear you also had a great experience with Coosa Valley. I think it is important to find a quality shop. Keep us update on your build.
As I mentioned in the intro video to my rebuild, I have rebuild two other engines and sent off the blocks to have machined. I was fortunate that this time I had a friend that owned a shop and allowed me to come watch the progress. I love "processes" so this was like brain food to me. Great Stuff! Mike
Now that’s the way to do a video. It’s fascinating to see the processes applied to the engine. Thank you for your time and effort in putting this together for us all to see!
I have to agree. Brian is never shy of words. I could ask him about the activity he was preforming, and he would walk me through it. I learned a ton from watching him and even more from our conversations. Cheers!
I’ll be rebuilding my first LS/ Vortec engine this year. Very well put together vids. Your process background helps for an easy viewing and understanding of your vids. I subscribed. Thank you.
Excellent! Hope you have as much fun and learn new things as we did. Make sure you pick up some sort of rebuild guide which will provide great details. Cheers... and have fun! Mike
I'm gonna have to go to Coosa Valley from N C FL. I didn't know there was a real machine shop left. I worked in one during school! Super as always, Lee, N FL
Awesome video! Shout out to you for making the video....Special shout out to the machine shop for allowing you to film their work on the block. Not a lot of shops will allow you to see what they do.
Always interesting to see the difference between an actual machine shop work vs the DIYers on TH-cam. Not saying the DIYers are doing a bad job, just good to see why for me, the novice, to understand WHY you want to go to a machine shop for most of your work.
Glad you enjoyed and found it useful. It's a fun little project if your doing it for a project versus doing to get your daily back on the road. Cheers and have fun with your project! Mike
Hey I’m from Rome Georgia I’m coming back home in October on leave from japan and starting a rebuild on an LS motor. Your videos are super helpful and will help me get prepared for it!!!
your videos are great i really appreciate the time you took to make them as i am sure it would have been much easier to put the camera down and get to work so thankyou I subscribed
Thank you Adam! It has been a very fun project. The camera work triples the execution time... but I'm really enjoying the ability to share this where comments like yours are extremely rewarding. Thank you!!!!!!!!
The first tank that they use is a caustic soda tank. It has a heater and this one looks like they are using the circulation. It removes oil, grease, and anything aluminum. If this was a LS1 block you wouldn't have anything left. All bearings must be removed before using this tank. The second machine is a pressure washer that you can put any kind of part into, even aluminum. It has a heater and some people use just plain water. Looks like a Sioux Valve Grinder, Rottler Boring Machine, haven't use that deck machine but it looks like a Rottler. Must have been a pretty high mile engine to need .02" over, if you are lucky with an LS motor you can get away with a .005" over piston that doesn't need the boring step. That measuring tool he is using on the bores is a bore gauge that you will zero to the widest part of the piston skirt, the barrel. Then the bore gauge will show + (clearance for the piston) or - (not enough clearance for the piston), this number is different for piston material. The bore gauges can quickly measure to about .00005-.0001" depending on the quality. Looks like a Sunnen hone, one small detail is that you shouldn't hone the cylinders in a row, 3,7,1,5 is a good way to do it and evenly distribute the heat of honing. If you bore or hone the cylinders in a row and measure it at the end there will be a difference between #1 and #7. That last brush is a nylon bristle that used for the plateau finish on the cylinder. Works great on plasma-moly rings which I'm sure you are using. www.pro-bal.com/tech_info/library/Precision_balancing_of_reciprocating_engines.pdf This is a good article on balancing by Pro-Bal who makes a lot of the balancing machines out there. It all comes down to the fact that some of the connecting rod is considered rotating weight (big end) and is added to the crankshaft while on the balancer and some of the connecting rod and the pistons are considered reciprocating weight. Some people do all the calculations and then still add their own over or under balance to it as they feel it is better for them. The balance machine usually turns around 500rpm. You wouldn't want to be near it if it was spinning much faster. That is an old type balancing machine, but it seems to work fine.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks for the response Not to many competent machine shops around me or any I have confidence in I plan to take my 5.3 to them and have them bore the cylinders to 3.905 Im building a 383 stroker Thanks again
How much would this entire procedure cost for a junkyard LS 6.0 Liter or 350 block Engine (Heads included) cost to have done general for slightly upgraded cam, valves and piston?
Correct me if I'm wrong so you bought the .020 over pistons first and measured them. You took those readings to match the block, measured the block to see how much to remove and while doing so also found the bore was tapered? Just want to know because I'm also doing a rebuild and it seems I have to take the pistons to the machine shop rather than let them cut away first and then take them.
This is a great question!!! Let me explain.... First it is important to understand that I was trying to stay as stock as possible (the goal). I took the Block and Pistons to the machine shop. Bryan (machinist) cleaned the block and then measured all of the Bores. That is when he measured a slight taper in the bores. Based on the measurements, he determined that he could machine-out the taper by Boring the cylinders 0.020. THAT is what determined the decision to use 0.020 Over Pistons. Once that was determined, we purchased the new Pistons. He measured the new Pistons and THAT is what he based his Boring and Honing steps on. I do not recall the details, but the Boring process took out the majority of the 0.020. And each of the Honing stones (4 or 5) snuck up to the final bore size. This part was fascinating to me. Hope this helps!!!! Mike
I think this is the besth video about fix a engine ever and forever..just excelent...one question how much was the cost just in the machine shop service?...
What do you think your total cost was on this build? I can get a reman for 1,900...I can’t decide if I want to send my current engine to a machine shop or just do the parts store reman.
Ik you have prob said but how much hp did you end up with, great videos to I’m currently doing a 5.3 for my c10 and your videos have helped tremendously, thanks
When you installed the cam bearings how did you index them so that the holes in the bearings matched the holes in the journals - are there really two holes in each of the bearings for oil, both in the lower quadrant so that the oil enters the cam in two places of each bearing or what?
My machinist installed the CAM bearings for me. But I was there. He aligned them as he was putting them in and he even double-checked with a flash light to make sure they ended up aligned.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I was curious how he went about determining where to locate the bearing relative to the journal. The reason that I ask is that I was of the impression that the bearings have two holes in each. Was that the case with yours and if so, were there two journal holes that he had to match up with and if so how did he do it?
Have you ever seen a Cam bearing installation tool? It is a long rod with an expansion pad on one end. The new bearing is secured to the expansion pad and then "clocked" to the position that you want it installed in the block. Then you tap it in place. He then checked that the hole lined up (1) Clocked properly and (2) the bearing was installed deep enough to make the holes align. If you are having Block work done at a machine shop, you can ask them to change out the Cam bearings. Probably important to use that installation tool.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I don't mean to belabor the point, but yes I have seen the tool and believe that he did align it properly, but I wondered how he does it when the bearing has two holes. In particular, do you recall that the bearings each had two holes and whether or not he had to do something special to get them to line up with two holes in the journals that they fit into. I have seen the bearings with two holes in them, but I have not found anyone who can definitively state that those two holes both line up with a hole in the journal. I think that only one hole exists in the journal, but I don't know for sure. Can you help me with this? I have a guy who is claiming that the oil feeds in through one and out another to feed something else - I doubt that.
My understanding is the early experience with these engines is the heads being torqued to the block distorted the block causing oil consumption..so a torque plate was used during boring...was that mentioned?
I have published the Build sheet with all of the prices that I encountered with my project. Everyone's wants and needs are different, so you could expect differing costs.
Thanks for watching! The new rods were a nice upgrade from stock. The Stock ones would have performed fine and would not be a required upgrade. It was a recommendation form my machinist and I decided to make it. Cheers!!!
The heads are the stock ones correct?? I’m going to rebuild my engine soon once I pay my truck off.. it’s only a 4.3 vortec so it shouldn’t be as much I would imagine
For an internally balanced rotating assembly, I’m curious why the balancer was needed to balance fully. I do notice the improvement made, but my impression was that the balancer and flywheel aren’t necessary to balance for an internally balanced LS engine. ? Thanks.
I'm not sure the answer! He asked me to bring it and we did install it while balancing the Crank. Don't see where it would hurt! And on a side note... we did have to make an adjustment to the balance of the NEW Flywheel. Had we just focused on the internal balancing, and assumed the FW was good (since it was new), there would have been an issue. I believe the effort was justified.
Thanks for the replies. I’m about to start a similar 6L build, and want to do it correctly. I was considering a factory new block rather than a used one, but am unsure what machine work that really avoids. I have a 6L used block available, but not a complete pull out like yours.
Now that I have been through one of these LS style Gen3 engines, I would feel comfortable starting with a used block and buying the new parts that I need. I normally like to take apart a complete item because I learn so much from the teardown. I ended up replacing so many parts that having the whole thing was not completely beneficial. I guess it is based on how much you know and your available access to parts. The book I followed was invaluable.
I purchased the Pistons and Rods from my machinist. I do not have a price breakdown, but here is a parts list that includes part numbers of what we used. : bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
It is my understanding that Brian took a measurement of the original Valve length as it protruded on the top side of the head. After performing a slight grind on the head to clean as reset the valve seat, the new valves then protruded slightly higher than the original setup. He used the original measurement and then ground the length of the new valve to that spec. This is my understanding.
Really like the videos. I have a 2000 Silverado with the 5.3 and 862 heads that I am looking to put a cam in as well as have the head done. One of the things I am looking to do is making he intake valves 2". Did you consider doing that or did you pass on it for any particular reason.
Taking the Intake valves to 2" did cross my mind as I did purchase new Valves and it would have been the perfect time to do it. My original goal was to just rebuild to stock except the CAM. I am trying to somewhat duplicate the Loping sound that I currently have in this vehicle (79 Jeep CJ7 / 304). Being a Jeep that will see tons of street miles, the 300+HP will be perfect for my application. I was trying not to get into too many mods other than those that just needed to be done. With that age of a truck, a complete valve job would be in order and that would be the perfect time to make that upgrade. You will need to also adjust your programming. Good luck if you decide to pursue!!!!!
I can give you the part numbers that I used. BUT.... Be Careful! Make sure you desire a 20 thousandth Over Piston before you purchase these. Sealed Power: H1127CPA.55MM. These are NOT stock sized pistons.
Comp Cam Kit CCA-K54-408-11: 206/212 112 LSA. What I like is the RPM Range of 800-5800. I wanted this streetable and the lower range of 800 with greatly help.
Comp Cam Kit CCA-K54-408-11. The RPM Range of this cam 408-11 is going to match my usage. There is a complete list of parts that I used in the Description Section ("Show More") under the video. Cheers!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike When you installed the cam bearings how did you index them so that the holes in the bearings matched the holes in the journals - are there really two holes in each of the bearings for oil, both in the upper quadrant so that the oil enters the cam in two places of each bearing or what?
I did clean it. Sprayed it with Simple Green and maybe something else while scraping the extra build-up off with a scraper and screw driver. It came relatively clean. Cheers
Jordono da Vinci Hello, I did not pre-purchase a standard rebuild kit. I worked with the Machine Shop who put together a custom kit based on the specs that my engine block ended up.
Man, looking at that shiny head at around 2:00 into the video...that's engine porn right there. Great stuff! Also, it appears those pistons have the ceramic coating on the top? You'll love that...cuts down on carbon build-up and is slightly better on containing heat.
$1200. For everything you saw in this video, Plus he balanced my new Flywheel which I did not get on film. Here is the parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
Most of the parts for this engine, I purchased through my Machine Shop. As he would Inspect, Machine and Determine final specs.... He could them properly purchase the correct replacements. Items that may require unique sizing include, Pistons, Rings, Main and Rod bearings, and Cam bearings. Once he knew where each item was going to end up, he purchased the proper sized parts form his distributer and sold them to me as a Kit.
You can certainly purchase engine parts from Speed Shops, Auto Parts Stores (AutoZone, Oreillys, Summit)... but what happens when you need the entire kit EXCEPT for one of the bearing sets. It just seems to make sense to me to let them "Customize" a kit for you that fits your engine's new specs. With that said, I have a feeling that quite often the block will come back with mostly stock specs and a off-the-shelf kit might work (otherwise why would it be an option). Your choice! Cheers!
I removed the timing chain gear, because I knew I was going to be replacing it. I can not think of a reason (other than a few $) that anyone would not replace the gears and chain when doing this type of work. The gears may look good, but the Chain should be considered a "consumable" item. Not sure if it would be smart to replace the chain without replacing the gears. The new gear was not on the crank when we balanced it. Probably a good idea, I would assume that the new gears are a balanced item, but you never know. Hope this helps!
Are you still happy with the job that Coosa Valley Performance did? I'm in North GA and looking to do a similar engine build. About how much do they charge for what you had done?
MooseZ71 Yes! Bryan did a great job. I’ve known Bryan for a while and he was grateful enough to let me pick his brain and record this overview. Just last month another viewer took his 5.3 to Coosa Valley and responded to me that he liked his discussion with Bryan on the options for his build. Mike.
They were purchased by my machine shop through their vendor. The Parts List in the description section under the video shows the part numbers. But remember that these piston are .020 over stock. Make sure you are getting the right ones...
The Machine work was $1215. I have included a breakdown of all of my engine building expenses in the following PDF document: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet . Hope that helps!
I did not get a breakdown of the machining costs. All of the Machining that you see in this series, plus balancing the new flywheel was about $1100. Which link did not work.... I would like to fix it. Thanks you!!!!
UCanDoIt2 the engine expense link above. I'm looking to do a stock rebuild in my LM7 next year, original budget was $1,500. I think I'm going to need to up it. Originally I had $500 for machine shop.
Interesting about the link. It works for me and I can see that 54 people have downloaded it in the past 3 weeks. What browser are you using? I would be happy to send you a copy of the sheet ( I think you will like the details). Send me an email: Ucandoit2Mike@gmail.com
That is correct. Block: Clean, Bore, Hone, Resurface. Head: Complete new internals. Crank: Polish and Balance. Piston: Assembly. and I'm sure a fee other items that I cant remember.
I used Coosa Valley Machine Shop in Cartersville, GA. The machining cost was about $1200 which included all of the work that was included in the video (and he balanced the new flywheel which was off). I did buy many of the parts through them as well (Pistons, Rods, Valves, Rebuild Kit, Oil Pump, etc) which was about $1900. In total I have right at $5K in this engine. I am currently working on the Wiring Harness and will probably spend another $100 there on connectors, Tape and Loom. Hope this helps! Have fun with yours!!!!!!
Michael Baker maximum bore on a 4.8/5.3 block would be 3.902". So yes, you can build a 5.7,ie. 347 out of a 4.8/5.3 block. Bore would end up at 3.898". It costed me $240, to have a 5.3 block bored from, 3.780 to 3.902.
That is a great question.... and the answer is... The 4.8 and 5.3 use the same block!!! I believe (that's my disclaimer) that the difference between the engines is the Crankshaft (4.8 - shorter throw) and the Piston Rods (4.8 slightly longer rods). This would create a situation where the pistons travel less and create the smaller displacement.
Thanks for watching Preston. The machine work was $1200. Which included all of the work that you saw in the video, plus a few other pieces that we did not catch on video (Flywheel balancing, cleaning/Inspection/measuring for where we need to end up). I have documented all of the Parts and Expenses for this build and will publish them at the end of the last video of the Engine Build Series. Hope you enjoyed the overview!
I have been doing some reasearch and would like to do a similar build. 5.3l with a tremec 56 behind it. My plan is to do a bigger cam and maybe some heads and an exhaust. If i can find a clean s10 then do the 5.3l t56 swap. Im following ur videos to learn. I have rebuild 3 4.3l vortecs before from my previous 98 s10 i owned. Great videos btw. Looking forward to new videos, when do u release videos. Weekly, monthly or just when u get the videos done.
Sounds like you have some good experience with this platform. In 1994, I built the AMC 304 that is currently in the Jeep. I have also build a Chevy 307 form a 72ish C10. About to have this one in Paint and then will be documenting a cleanup effort on the Wiring Harness. I get my videos out when I can! These have been a little slow as I decided to build this 5.3L so that my boys could see/help/learn. Been a great project so far, but their availability is slim.... Can you say Girl Friends!!!!! Thank you sir!
Well i look forward to the futrue videos. With the machining i plan on doing it in different parts as money and time are a limited. So i think if i do the motor build first then buy the trans and then buy the s10 i will have a nice setup. I also dont have a garage avaliable at all times so im going to start with a 5.3l rebuild.
An additional note on the "Bigger Cam" you mentioned. I had learned a lot in my research and it was my machinist that want to review my choice and plans for the vehicle. He pointed out something that I was not focused on... The specified "RPM Range" on the spec sheet. The one that I chose is 800-5800. 90 percent of my driving will be on the street so I really needed the lower end availability. Check that out while you're doing your research. I enjoy that part of it as much as the build. I am learning so much with this one.
I believe I cut out the footage where we originally spun it slowly to check. He told me the day before as we were planning this day that the bob weight portion was going to be the scariest! It was pretty cool!
Great video and procedure but I do have one complaint. I really can't understand why the machinist at 2.10 seconds cut and angled the valve tips on a WET grinder but didn't turn on the pump for lubrication and dry shaved them leaving a really rough, course and uneven cut wearing out the rocker tips Also it damages the stones on the valve grinder. All else was great and I enjoyed the video. but I just found this odd. Oh thumbs up.
Well... I did not get a breakdown of the cost from the machine shop. The total machining costs was about $1100. That covered all of the work covered in this video as balancing the new Flywheel that was not covered.
I as well am doing a 5.3 Engine rebuild. I stumbled on the Rowdy Project as a Video series to help me with my build. This part 3 was very interesting as I was doing research on a Machine Shop to do the Work to the Block, and provide Pistons, Rods etc. When I met the Machinist for the first time I was impressed. I informed him I saw this project, and wanted to do something similar, and he knew exactly what to do. I highly recommend Coosa Valley Performance for any Machining that you need to have done. Mike, I also appreciate all of your input to my project as well. Thank you.
Sandy Randall Awesome to hear you also had a great experience with Coosa Valley. I think it is important to find a quality shop. Keep us update on your build.
How much did it cost to send it to the shop
How much did it cost?
Ive never seen this process and so cool to watch
As I mentioned in the intro video to my rebuild, I have rebuild two other engines and sent off the blocks to have machined. I was fortunate that this time I had a friend that owned a shop and allowed me to come watch the progress. I love "processes" so this was like brain food to me. Great Stuff! Mike
Finally a serious ls build video instead of corny out takes in between the build!
Thank you for the very nice compliment! Cheers to you!!!!
Wow, that guy at the shop really put in the effort to do it right. Thankful there is still good machine shops out there.
Now that’s the way to do a video. It’s fascinating to see the processes applied to the engine.
Thank you for your time and effort in putting this together for us all to see!
Stoked that you enjoyed it!!!! I thought it was fascinating. I'm a process guy and really enjoyed seeing what took place. Thanks for the feedback.
the gentleman at the machine shop is one extremely skilled individual....
I have to agree. Brian is never shy of words. I could ask him about the activity he was preforming, and he would walk me through it. I learned a ton from watching him and even more from our conversations. Cheers!
I WAS THINKING THE SAME. ID LOV TO KNOW PRICE RANGE FOR ALL HE DID
Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
@@UCanDoIt2Mike You are awesome! Thanks for posting all of this. We're lucky to get to learn from your organized way of doing & tracking everything!
Thank you Sir!!!!!
I’ll be rebuilding my first LS/ Vortec engine this year. Very well put together vids. Your process background helps for an easy viewing and understanding of your vids. I subscribed. Thank you.
Excellent! Hope you have as much fun and learn new things as we did. Make sure you pick up some sort of rebuild guide which will provide great details. Cheers... and have fun! Mike
I'm gonna have to go to Coosa Valley from N C FL. I didn't know there was a real machine shop left. I worked in one during school! Super as always, Lee, N FL
Awesome video! Shout out to you for making the video....Special shout out to the machine shop for allowing you to film their work on the block. Not a lot of shops will allow you to see what they do.
Gabriel Hawley Thanks for the feedback. I enjoyed filming and putting this episode together. Cheers and have fun!!
Excellent Build Videos!
Jake Wade Glad you are enjoying them!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike How is the engine running? I would like to more about how that camshaft performs.
As a machinist, I appreciate this video
It is really cool to see some of this stuff.
Always interesting to see the difference between an actual machine shop work vs the DIYers on TH-cam. Not saying the DIYers are doing a bad job, just good to see why for me, the novice, to understand WHY you want to go to a machine shop for most of your work.
I am a process guy, and really enjoyed seeing how this stuff was done.
Awesome video....love the break down part list....great build.....im currently building a lm7 myself.......
Glad you enjoyed and found it useful. It's a fun little project if your doing it for a project versus doing to get your daily back on the road. Cheers and have fun with your project! Mike
Hey I’m from Rome Georgia I’m coming back home in October on leave from japan and starting a rebuild on an LS motor. Your videos are super helpful and will help me get prepared for it!!!
Very very cool! Congrats on getting some time off. Have fun with your build and thank you for your service! Keep us updated on you build. Cheers Mike!
I now think with the help of your videos I can rebuild a motor thank you sir I am going to keep watching
That’s a damn good machine shop you found there
Where is this shop
I think I am a process guy too! I love this stuff.
I somehow missed this comment. I love to learn processes!!! Very cool stuff. Cheers! Mike
Nice of them to let you film. Nice process.
Thanks Steve. I really enjoyed the visit and the education.
That is cool that you got the process on video Very cool to see how that is done.
It was very fulfilling to my engineering mind. True Eye-Candy!
Hmm Cartersville...only about an hour and a half from when I live. Neat video to see what happens at the machine shop!
I really enjoyed the time with Brian at the machine shop. He had a routine for everything. Cheers!
Nice precision work!!
Thanks for watching and the feedback!
That was awesome!
Your videos are legit my man. Thanks for doing this, truly. 🍻
Glad you are enjoying the series! Ton's of fun!!!!! Cheers.
your videos are very well made I'm a suscriber now..
I great appreciate the compliment and glad you have decided to follow along. Cheers to you!!!!!
Those heads look beautiful now
Thank you sir!!!!!
Looks great Mike. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.
Thank Russ. It was a very informative visit. Enjoyed it very much.
that was so cool to watch. thank you
En V me kid Good Stuff!!!! I was fortunate to be allowed to get the footage. Glad you enjoyed!
really enjoy watching your videos keep it up!!
Thank you!!!!!
The last step in honing the block is what’s called plateau hone. The purpose is to knock down the microscopic peaks made during the honing process.
Thank you for the additional information James! Good Stuff!
your videos are great i really appreciate the time you took to make them as i am sure it would have been much easier to put the camera down and get to work so thankyou I subscribed
Thank you Adam! It has been a very fun project. The camera work triples the execution time... but I'm really enjoying the ability to share this where comments like yours are extremely rewarding. Thank you!!!!!!!!
The first tank that they use is a caustic soda tank. It has a heater and this one looks like they are using the circulation. It removes oil, grease, and anything aluminum. If this was a LS1 block you wouldn't have anything left. All bearings must be removed before using this tank. The second machine is a pressure washer that you can put any kind of part into, even aluminum. It has a heater and some people use just plain water. Looks like a Sioux Valve Grinder, Rottler Boring Machine, haven't use that deck machine but it looks like a Rottler. Must have been a pretty high mile engine to need .02" over, if you are lucky with an LS motor you can get away with a .005" over piston that doesn't need the boring step. That measuring tool he is using on the bores is a bore gauge that you will zero to the widest part of the piston skirt, the barrel. Then the bore gauge will show + (clearance for the piston) or - (not enough clearance for the piston), this number is different for piston material. The bore gauges can quickly measure to about .00005-.0001" depending on the quality. Looks like a Sunnen hone, one small detail is that you shouldn't hone the cylinders in a row, 3,7,1,5 is a good way to do it and evenly distribute the heat of honing. If you bore or hone the cylinders in a row and measure it at the end there will be a difference between #1 and #7. That last brush is a nylon bristle that used for the plateau finish on the cylinder. Works great on plasma-moly rings which I'm sure you are using. www.pro-bal.com/tech_info/library/Precision_balancing_of_reciprocating_engines.pdf This is a good article on balancing by Pro-Bal who makes a lot of the balancing machines out there. It all comes down to the fact that some of the connecting rod is considered rotating weight (big end) and is added to the crankshaft while on the balancer and some of the connecting rod and the pistons are considered reciprocating weight. Some people do all the calculations and then still add their own over or under balance to it as they feel it is better for them. The balance machine usually turns around 500rpm. You wouldn't want to be near it if it was spinning much faster. That is an old type balancing machine, but it seems to work fine.
Great video
Thank you Diego! I really enjoyed the visits tot eh machine shop and thought others would like to see what goes on behind the scenes....
Nice video series.
Thank you Darren!!!
Thanks for the info on the heads, good to know
Great machine work✅
Lot goes into a Quality build for sure and I’ll be looking for the same✅
Best Regards to all
I was really thankful that Bryan allowed me to video as many steps to the process that he did. I am a "Process" guy and enjoyed it all. Mike
NICE!
Cool stuff right!!!
Nice video, were you satisfied with the machine shop's work and would you use their services again?
I was very pleased with their work... and yes I have another future project planned that I will use them again. Cheers! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thanks for the response
Not to many competent machine shops around me or any I have confidence in
I plan to take my 5.3 to them and have them bore the cylinders to 3.905
Im building a 383 stroker
Thanks again
@@Slicpartna It is a small shop and owner operated. There is a vested interest in getting your items done right. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike did you supply the replacement intake and exhaust valves or did the machine provide them?
thanks
The machine shop has distributors that supplied all of the rebuild components. Including the Valves.
You weren’t too far from me lol I live in the dalton area
Yep.... Very close!
very good informative video
You hear about this stuff. It was nice for me to be able to see the processes up close. Cool Stuff!
Really like your videos you do a great job with them thank you “subscribed” 👍👍👍👍
Thank you Michael! Appreciate the feedback! Cheers!
How much would this entire procedure cost for a junkyard LS 6.0 Liter or 350 block Engine (Heads included) cost to have done general for slightly upgraded cam, valves and piston?
What did this cost
Tyler Parker if you scroll farther down he answered it and posted a pdf of what everything cost him, a little over $5k.
Correct me if I'm wrong so you bought the .020 over pistons first and measured them. You took those readings to match the block, measured the block to see how much to remove and while doing so also found the bore was tapered? Just want to know because I'm also doing a rebuild and it seems I have to take the pistons to the machine shop rather than let them cut away first and then take them.
This is a great question!!! Let me explain.... First it is important to understand that I was trying to stay as stock as possible (the goal). I took the Block and Pistons to the machine shop. Bryan (machinist) cleaned the block and then measured all of the Bores. That is when he measured a slight taper in the bores. Based on the measurements, he determined that he could machine-out the taper by Boring the cylinders 0.020. THAT is what determined the decision to use 0.020 Over Pistons. Once that was determined, we purchased the new Pistons. He measured the new Pistons and THAT is what he based his Boring and Honing steps on. I do not recall the details, but the Boring process took out the majority of the 0.020. And each of the Honing stones (4 or 5) snuck up to the final bore size. This part was fascinating to me. Hope this helps!!!! Mike
What's the shop and where? I will drive therefor that good of work.
At the 20 second mark of this video, I mention the details.
I think this is the besth video about fix a engine ever and forever..just excelent...one question how much was the cost just in the machine shop service?...
The Machine Shop work was $1,200. Here is a Parts List and Pricing from this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
What do you think your total cost was on this build? I can get a reman for 1,900...I can’t decide if I want to send my current engine to a machine shop or just do the parts store reman.
$5,000. Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
How much you spend on machine shop Plus parts like know maybe in future I ll do ,, nice and clean job
Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
Not bad
How much was it? I really wanna know how much they charged you, i think they are over pricing me on a local shop.
Info on the machine shop pls thanks
Check a few comments down he has a full price list of build
www.dropbox.com/s/jlsz0gwulgt8nwp/Project%20Rowdy%20-%20Jeep%20CJ7%20Restore%20Expenses%20-%20Engine%20Details.pdf?dl=0
I would appreciate your recommendation on the best rebuild manual? GREAT VIDEOS...
Here is the one that I used... A lot of great information in it...GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you for your response and recommendation.
Ik you have prob said but how much hp did you end up with, great videos to I’m currently doing a 5.3 for my c10 and your videos have helped tremendously, thanks
Don't know. I am now working on the completing the Vehicle this engine will be swapped into that I plan to install it.
When you installed the cam bearings how did you index them so that the holes in the bearings matched the holes in the journals - are there really two holes in each of the bearings for oil, both in the lower quadrant so that the oil enters the cam in two places of each bearing or what?
My machinist installed the CAM bearings for me. But I was there. He aligned them as he was putting them in and he even double-checked with a flash light to make sure they ended up aligned.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I was curious how he went about determining where to locate the bearing relative to the journal. The reason that I ask is that I was of the impression that the bearings have two holes in each. Was that the case with yours and if so, were there two journal holes that he had to match up with and if so how did he do it?
Have you ever seen a Cam bearing installation tool? It is a long rod with an expansion pad on one end. The new bearing is secured to the expansion pad and then "clocked" to the position that you want it installed in the block. Then you tap it in place. He then checked that the hole lined up (1) Clocked properly and (2) the bearing was installed deep enough to make the holes align. If you are having Block work done at a machine shop, you can ask them to change out the Cam bearings. Probably important to use that installation tool.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I don't mean to belabor the point, but yes I have seen the tool and believe that he did align it properly, but I wondered how he does it when the bearing has two holes. In particular, do you recall that the bearings each had two holes and whether or not he had to do something special to get them to line up with two holes in the journals that they fit into.
I have seen the bearings with two holes in them, but I have not found anyone who can definitively state that those two holes both line up with a hole in the journal. I think that only one hole exists in the journal, but I don't know for sure. Can you help me with this? I have a guy who is claiming that the oil feeds in through one and out another to feed something else - I doubt that.
My understanding is the early experience with these engines is the heads being torqued to the block distorted the block causing oil consumption..so a torque plate was used during boring...was that mentioned?
I did not mention a Torque plate because we did not use one. He had a stack of them for various sized engines, but we did not use one. Cheers!
😎 With the 20 overbore what is the new cubic inch from 5.3 and have you done a Horsepower check?
Not of the new Cubic In. I'm sure someone has recalculated the answer and published somewhere. Not sure on the HP.
How much did the Machine Shop charge you for all its work? Just asking so I can budget when I do mine.
I have published the Build sheet with all of the prices that I encountered with my project. Everyone's wants and needs are different, so you could expect differing costs.
Shouldnt the machine shop use a torque plate when boring/honing the decks?
02cents you are probably correct. I don't believe that it will affect my street build. Great observation.
Yea they are man.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike you might get a nasty vibration
Yes! Very important when boring an LS engine!!
Not important as much for boring if you stay out of size by more than about .004-.007, but for honing yes definitely.
I can't believe I haven't found this before, great videos! But why the new rods?
Thanks for watching! The new rods were a nice upgrade from stock. The Stock ones would have performed fine and would not be a required upgrade. It was a recommendation form my machinist and I decided to make it. Cheers!!!
The heads are the stock ones correct?? I’m going to rebuild my engine soon once I pay my truck off.. it’s only a 4.3 vortec so it shouldn’t be as much I would imagine
My heads are the stock ones that came on the engine. Have fun with yours!
For an internally balanced rotating assembly, I’m curious why the balancer was needed to balance fully. I do notice the improvement made, but my impression was that the balancer and flywheel aren’t necessary to balance for an internally balanced LS engine. ? Thanks.
I'm not sure the answer! He asked me to bring it and we did install it while balancing the Crank. Don't see where it would hurt! And on a side note... we did have to make an adjustment to the balance of the NEW Flywheel. Had we just focused on the internal balancing, and assumed the FW was good (since it was new), there would have been an issue. I believe the effort was justified.
Thanks for the replies. I’m about to start a similar 6L build, and want to do it correctly. I was considering a factory new block rather than a used one, but am unsure what machine work that really avoids. I have a 6L used block available, but not a complete pull out like yours.
Now that I have been through one of these LS style Gen3 engines, I would feel comfortable starting with a used block and buying the new parts that I need. I normally like to take apart a complete item because I learn so much from the teardown. I ended up replacing so many parts that having the whole thing was not completely beneficial. I guess it is based on how much you know and your available access to parts. The book I followed was invaluable.
If you don't mind me asking, how much was the rod and piston set and where did it come from ? I'm doing a 5.3 build, and I also have to bore my block.
I purchased the Pistons and Rods from my machinist. I do not have a price breakdown, but here is a parts list that includes part numbers of what we used. : bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you for the feedback !!!
Great video what happen with valves did you get wrong size so they have to shave them or what ??
It is my understanding that Brian took a measurement of the original Valve length as it protruded on the top side of the head. After performing a slight grind on the head to clean as reset the valve seat, the new valves then protruded slightly higher than the original setup. He used the original measurement and then ground the length of the new valve to that spec. This is my understanding.
Ohh okey
Do you have a part number for the crank?
I do not. It is the original crank that came in the 5.3.
Really like the videos. I have a 2000 Silverado with the 5.3 and 862 heads that I am looking to put a cam in as well as have the head done. One of the things I am looking to do is making he intake valves 2". Did you consider doing that or did you pass on it for any particular reason.
Taking the Intake valves to 2" did cross my mind as I did purchase new Valves and it would have been the perfect time to do it. My original goal was to just rebuild to stock except the CAM. I am trying to somewhat duplicate the Loping sound that I currently have in this vehicle (79 Jeep CJ7 / 304). Being a Jeep that will see tons of street miles, the 300+HP will be perfect for my application. I was trying not to get into too many mods other than those that just needed to be done. With that age of a truck, a complete valve job would be in order and that would be the perfect time to make that upgrade. You will need to also adjust your programming. Good luck if you decide to pursue!!!!!
Great videos! Does anybody know the part number for those new pistons?
I can give you the part numbers that I used. BUT.... Be Careful! Make sure you desire a 20 thousandth Over Piston before you purchase these. Sealed Power: H1127CPA.55MM. These are NOT stock sized pistons.
great videos, did you go back with all oringinal internals and valves and springs?
No... Most if not all internals were replaced. New Springs came with the Comp Cam Kit, New Valves, Pistons, Rods, Bearings, Rings...
What size cam @ucandoit?
Comp Cam Kit CCA-K54-408-11: 206/212 112 LSA. What I like is the RPM Range of 800-5800. I wanted this streetable and the lower range of 800 with greatly help.
What bearings and pistons did you go with? Do you by chance have a part number for them? Thanks for the helpful videos!
Nevermind, I found the parts list.. thanks😁
What cam and springs did you guys end up going with?? I'm interested as I myself am building a 5.3
Comp Cam Kit CCA-K54-408-11. The RPM Range of this cam 408-11 is going to match my usage. There is a complete list of parts that I used in the Description Section ("Show More") under the video. Cheers!!!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike When you installed the cam bearings how did you index them so that the holes in the bearings matched the holes in the journals - are there really two holes in each of the bearings for oil, both in the upper quadrant so that the oil enters the cam in two places of each bearing or what?
Hey buddy, did you clean inside your intake? I’m thinking about soaking mine in simple green+water for a day or 2
I did clean it. Sprayed it with Simple Green and maybe something else while scraping the extra build-up off with a scraper and screw driver. It came relatively clean. Cheers
I have a 05 5.3 LM7 and am curious what this cost, not all of it but just how much the stuff in this video cost.
Downloadable Parts list in the Description
Hey great video! I just wanted to know where you got your rebuild kit from and do you think it is suitable for about 500hp?
Jordono da Vinci Hello, I did not pre-purchase a standard rebuild kit. I worked with the Machine Shop who put together a custom kit based on the specs that my engine block ended up.
Man, looking at that shiny head at around 2:00 into the video...that's engine porn right there. Great stuff!
Also, it appears those pistons have the ceramic coating on the top? You'll love that...cuts down on carbon build-up and is slightly better on containing heat.
Still grinning ear to ear! Looking forward to start turning some bolts!
Wow
Thanks for watching!! Cheers!
If I may ask want piston and rods did u use ?
Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
How much an average it cost to have machinist clean and balance/spec the block???
Maybe someone would have an idea. Mine was bundled in so I have no idea.
What was the price for all that work???
Parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
what would be the cost of build
Complete cost sheet in the description below the video.
What was the price for all the machine work
$1200. For everything you saw in this video, Plus he balanced my new Flywheel which I did not get on film. Here is the parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
Where did you get your .020 pistons at may need my block bored
Most of the parts for this engine, I purchased through my Machine Shop. As he would Inspect, Machine and Determine final specs.... He could them properly purchase the correct replacements. Items that may require unique sizing include, Pistons, Rings, Main and Rod bearings, and Cam bearings. Once he knew where each item was going to end up, he purchased the proper sized parts form his distributer and sold them to me as a Kit.
Thks, I'll have to contact machine shop
You can certainly purchase engine parts from Speed Shops, Auto Parts Stores (AutoZone, Oreillys, Summit)... but what happens when you need the entire kit EXCEPT for one of the bearing sets. It just seems to make sense to me to let them "Customize" a kit for you that fits your engine's new specs. With that said, I have a feeling that quite often the block will come back with mostly stock specs and a off-the-shelf kit might work (otherwise why would it be an option). Your choice! Cheers!
I noticed you removed the timing chain gear from the crank. Was that necessary for the machine shop? Was it installed when they balanced it?
I removed the timing chain gear, because I knew I was going to be replacing it. I can not think of a reason (other than a few $) that anyone would not replace the gears and chain when doing this type of work. The gears may look good, but the Chain should be considered a "consumable" item. Not sure if it would be smart to replace the chain without replacing the gears. The new gear was not on the crank when we balanced it. Probably a good idea, I would assume that the new gears are a balanced item, but you never know. Hope this helps!
Are you still happy with the job that Coosa Valley Performance did? I'm in North GA and looking to do a similar engine build. About how much do they charge for what you had done?
MooseZ71 Yes! Bryan did a great job. I’ve known Bryan for a while and he was grateful enough to let me pick his brain and record this overview. Just last month another viewer took his 5.3 to Coosa Valley and responded to me that he liked his discussion with Bryan on the options for his build. Mike.
How much did it cost at the machine shop? Can i say you sent me?
How much did you have total in new parts? I have a 5.3 that need some freshening up and wondering how much parts will cost me
Here is the parts List used on this build: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
What is the title of the of the manual you used to assist you with this build?
GM LS-Series Engines by Chris Werner: Amazon: amzn.to/2igcReD
were did you get those pistons and rods
They were purchased by my machine shop through their vendor. The Parts List in the description section under the video shows the part numbers. But remember that these piston are .020 over stock. Make sure you are getting the right ones...
can you tell us how much did you spend in machining and how much as it in part. Thank you
The Machine work was $1215. I have included a breakdown of all of my engine building expenses in the following PDF document: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet . Hope that helps!
UCanDoIt2 link did not work. How much was the head rebuild?
I did not get a breakdown of the machining costs. All of the Machining that you see in this series, plus balancing the new flywheel was about $1100. Which link did not work.... I would like to fix it. Thanks you!!!!
UCanDoIt2 the engine expense link above.
I'm looking to do a stock rebuild in my LM7 next year, original budget was $1,500. I think I'm going to need to up it. Originally I had $500 for machine shop.
Interesting about the link. It works for me and I can see that 54 people have downloaded it in the past 3 weeks. What browser are you using? I would be happy to send you a copy of the sheet ( I think you will like the details). Send me an email: Ucandoit2Mike@gmail.com
No torque plate for honing?
I was going to ask the same thing.
Estimate on how much did all this work cost you?
Here is the parts list used on this build which includes machining costs: bit.ly/RowdyEngineExpenseSheet
I'm from Cartersville
My machine shop is on Tennessee Street across from the Ford Dealership!
Was your total $1,215.00 for all your machine shop work, including the heads and block??
That is correct. Block: Clean, Bore, Hone, Resurface. Head: Complete new internals. Crank: Polish and Balance. Piston: Assembly. and I'm sure a fee other items that I cant remember.
Not bad price
About how much did it run you to have the motor machined? Looking to have about everything done the same except for the boring on my 01 5.3. Thanks!
Mine was $1200 and after observing the time and machinery that was involved, it was a steal!
Mind if I ask you where this was done at and what kind of coast it was?
I used Coosa Valley Machine Shop in Cartersville, GA. The machining cost was about $1200 which included all of the work that was included in the video (and he balanced the new flywheel which was off). I did buy many of the parts through them as well (Pistons, Rods, Valves, Rebuild Kit, Oil Pump, etc) which was about $1900. In total I have right at $5K in this engine. I am currently working on the Wiring Harness and will probably spend another $100 there on connectors, Tape and Loom. Hope this helps! Have fun with yours!!!!!!
UCanDoIt2 I've got mine pretty much buttoned up but I would like to create more hp out of it.
What did that work run you
There is a complete list with costs in the Show More section below the video. A downloadable PDF. Check it out!
so you can bore these blocks out I was told you could not is possible to make a stroker motor out of a 5.3
I believe you can bore it out to 5.7 which is like an LS1/LS6.
Michael Baker
maximum bore on a 4.8/5.3 block would be 3.902".
So yes, you can build a 5.7,ie. 347 out of a 4.8/5.3 block.
Bore would end up at
3.898".
It costed me $240, to have a 5.3 block bored from, 3.780 to 3.902.
why does the block have 4.8 and 5.3 stamped on it sorry for the questions I'm gonna build the 5?3 in my tahoe
That is a great question.... and the answer is... The 4.8 and 5.3 use the same block!!! I believe (that's my disclaimer) that the difference between the engines is the Crankshaft (4.8 - shorter throw) and the Piston Rods (4.8 slightly longer rods). This would create a situation where the pistons travel less and create the smaller displacement.
Wat was the cost of all of the machining
Thanks for watching Preston. The machine work was $1200. Which included all of the work that you saw in the video, plus a few other pieces that we did not catch on video (Flywheel balancing, cleaning/Inspection/measuring for where we need to end up). I have documented all of the Parts and Expenses for this build and will publish them at the end of the last video of the Engine Build Series. Hope you enjoyed the overview!
I have been doing some reasearch and would like to do a similar build. 5.3l with a tremec 56 behind it. My plan is to do a bigger cam and maybe some heads and an exhaust. If i can find a clean s10 then do the 5.3l t56 swap. Im following ur videos to learn. I have rebuild 3 4.3l vortecs before from my previous 98 s10 i owned. Great videos btw. Looking forward to new videos, when do u release videos. Weekly, monthly or just when u get the videos done.
Sounds like you have some good experience with this platform. In 1994, I built the AMC 304 that is currently in the Jeep. I have also build a Chevy 307 form a 72ish C10. About to have this one in Paint and then will be documenting a cleanup effort on the Wiring Harness. I get my videos out when I can! These have been a little slow as I decided to build this 5.3L so that my boys could see/help/learn. Been a great project so far, but their availability is slim.... Can you say Girl Friends!!!!! Thank you sir!
Well i look forward to the futrue videos. With the machining i plan on doing it in different parts as money and time are a limited. So i think if i do the motor build first then buy the trans and then buy the s10 i will have a nice setup. I also dont have a garage avaliable at all times so im going to start with a 5.3l rebuild.
An additional note on the "Bigger Cam" you mentioned. I had learned a lot in my research and it was my machinist that want to review my choice and plans for the vehicle. He pointed out something that I was not focused on... The specified "RPM Range" on the spec sheet. The one that I chose is 800-5800. 90 percent of my driving will be on the street so I really needed the lower end availability. Check that out while you're doing your research. I enjoy that part of it as much as the build. I am learning so much with this one.
I live n Charleston sc..can someone tell me where i can find a 5star machine shop in the area
Looks scary to bolt on those bob weights and stand 3ft in front of them as the spin at 6,000rpm!
I believe I cut out the footage where we originally spun it slowly to check. He told me the day before as we were planning this day that the bob weight portion was going to be the scariest! It was pretty cool!
Great video and procedure but I do have one complaint. I really can't understand why the machinist at 2.10 seconds cut and angled the valve tips on a WET grinder but didn't turn on the pump for lubrication and dry shaved them leaving a really rough, course and uneven cut wearing out the rocker tips Also it damages the stones on the valve grinder. All else was great and I enjoyed the video. but I just found this odd. Oh thumbs up.
I would have a fit ! No gloves ! but the rest of the vid was very professional .
You may have made a mistake decking that bad-boy.
price ?
Complete list in the description.
How much does it cost to get that block machine
Well... I did not get a breakdown of the cost from the machine shop. The total machining costs was about $1100. That covered all of the work covered in this video as balancing the new Flywheel that was not covered.
UCanDoIt2 I would say money well spent. It's a professional work adding to that the engine is extremely reliable. Well worth it.
Weird that you spent the money for H-beam rods for a stock motor and also used circlips instead of spiro-locks! Odd combination there!