Love your videos! Excellent narration on the why's and how's. Always complete and to the point. I had this surging problem on a Briggs 13hp vertical riding mower. A valve adjustment solved the problem.
I used e3 plugs in motorized bikes before and had no issues. I then used one in my four wheeler and it started backfiring! I was worried at first but the only thing I changed was the spark plug, so I put the ngk back in and the backfiring stopped. Won't ever use an e3 again. As far as I can tell it's a gimmick and they're very expensive, especially for a product from china.
I had a mower with the same symptoms and after going through everything, it had a bit too much oil. It didn't smoke while running but when stated, it smoked for a few seconds. Emptied oil, removed spark plug, pinched gas line, stood mower up on its side (carb down), generously sprayed carb cleaner and let sit to drip dry. Filled oil and one pull start with perfect idle. I'll be checking the rockers too for full inspections.
I've never actually used one of these plugs and use the old standby J8's or an NGK for the newer stuff but if it works, good. My pal at his saw shop has seen the bigger Kohlers, the V's with bad cams. I know Stihl 4-mix had a run of stripped cam gears and magnetos. My old stuff just keeps wheezing along. You did good and GBWYou!
I have a mower with that Kohler 149cc engine 6.75 ftlb torque on the label. I found it by the side of the road and it's been sitting for at least five years untouched by me as it's starter is busted. It's a non self propelled mower but has ball bearing wheels. The mower is an Australian brand SupaSwift with four blade cutting disc and not the usual bar blade you have over there. I found a pair of mowers today, one with an Aussie Victa 160cc two stroke engine with rusty base and another almost identical Victa mower with a Tecumseh motor leaking oil everywhere. I'll assess the shape of each and possibly swap the two stroke over to the other one as it's body is in good shape.
@@M.TTT. and well worthwhile if you're going to use that mower yourself. Those Snapper self propelled systems are among the least troublesome. Even Honda can't get theirs right.
@@jamesfrench7299 yea the old snappers are pretty heavy duty and pull well. I ended up selling it since I didn't need it. Still have a Lawn-boy to sell also, but its a bit newer.
I just had a cub cadet riding mower with the kohler command SV600 engine. the exhaust rocker came free and the exhaust push rod was bent. just replaced the head and hardware and its all good now.
I have had a couple of ngk oem plugs go bad and cause rough running or not starting, but that was on two-strokes. Both started and ran great, until they didn't. One was on an echo 2620 that l had for a month or two. It was a tick rich at idle, so l leaned it up a fuzz, and so far no issues. I dont know if that was the issue, because it ran rough after cleaning the plug, put a new plug in it and all is well. Great video!!
Yeah, l replace my plugs and filters yearly, Unless they (plugs mainly) need replaced sooner. But l would expect them to last longer than a month on a brand new machine. Thanks for the response, l learn a lot from your videos!!
I believe you can test a spark plug if you have an ohm meter. If the plug has a letter "r" in its number code, it has an inbuilt resistor between the plug cap and centre terminal - should be roughly 10k ohms, if a lot higher will weaken the spark. Plugs with no letter r have no resistor and should have no or very little resistance. Also, should be infinite resistance between the top cap and metal threads of the plug - if there's a reading the ceramic insulation is breaking down. Hope this helps.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE just looked up my notes regarding the plugs I've changed ( I'm into electronics, sad I know!), And new plugs range from 5.7k to 12.5k resistance ( if they have a resistor that is). I only use NGK or Champion plugs, but I've never used a generic brand, so can't comment on those.
My moms mower had this issue and after changing plug to ngk and adjusting the valves that didn’t fix it. I did the same thing and checked the valves and the rocker stud came loose so I put some loctite on it and re adjusted the valves and that didn’t fix it. I then went into the carb and it was clean on inside and needle and seat were working properly and all jets were clear of debris. I found a tiny inline filter inside the fuel line so I pulled that out and spliced in an external filter like on the riding mowers and that fixed the issue. I’m guessing the inline filter was causing a small restriction of fuel supply and would cause it to surge and want to run rough but after replacing that filter there was no more issues with how it ran and it surged for a couple seconds when cold but then cleared up and ran good
On any other engine I would suspect the spark plug first, however past experience tells me it is unlikely to help with the skipping on one of these. I’d still put an NGK in there, I don’t like those E3 plugs at all and I have had issues with them too.
Put a bosch iridium plug in it and that should help alot. Other than that just make sure the carburetor is clean and clear. Kohler engines have always been great to me and I have ran the heck out of them. Definitely want to get the engine speed back down to the safe rpm. Well within fifty rpms from stock should be fine for the internals connecting rod, piston, bearings and push rods.
I believe if the plug looks bad, it's best to install a new quality plug, such as a Champion or NGK. 4 years ago, we had a large paver project done and the contractors Stihl concrete saw crapped out one day. The worker went to the local big box store, bought a proper plug, returned and installed the new plug. One pull and the project continued on. For typically $5 or less, why gamble?
I just picked one up yesterday I drained the float bowl and tank flushed out the fuel line and replaced the air filter. It started the same way, I worked it for about a half an hour and it surged up for about five seconds and quit running. Start with the float and then look at the timing?
no, make it easy and replace the carb, fuel line, clean the fuel filter screen and clean the vent holes in the fuel cap. The timing is not the issue with this one.
I like using oem plug or as close as possible. Why? Because the manufacturer went through development and research as well as testing to find out what works best and performs well over time in their engines
An old mechanic told me that sometimes spark plugs develop a condition called "spiders". It will short out the plug. All the cleaning in the world won't fix it. Solution is to get a new plug. I lean toward NGK plugs. Seem to have better luck than with any others
Piston must be top dead centre etc on measuring valve lash.. Answer it may be this type of spark plug as you saw it’s consistently was poor on the left, replacement to a standard spark plug may resolve the issue, but valve lash was out.
Any idea why my Fwd toro lawnmower keeps getting clogged around the pulley? It gets clogged and then the wheels won't turn when I engage the self propel. Have to clean it out after every mow. Question is for the whole thread as well. Thanks.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yes I sharpened it about 3 cuts ago. No grass on the deck. I don't usually mow when grass is damp. Also I cut the grass high so I'm taking large amounts of grass at a time.
Kohler's are terrible, many issues and oil leaks, they have a leak kit for about $40 for valve cover leaks on certain models. Also blown out sump gaskets are an issue. The plug can cause issues, I always change customers plugs as part of a tune up. Check the low speed jet on the carb, that can usually be the cause of surging and hard starting. Also a partcially plugged main jet can cause poor performance. Thanks for the video.
Change the plug! It’s a cheap locally available part. If it doesn’t fix it, at least you have eliminated it as the source of the problem. There’s not much worse than spending hours hunting down a problem only to find the cheap part you decided not to replace was the source of your agony all along. My rule is always eliminate the basics, cheap, and easy possibilities first.
Im looking to be directed to the video on an mtd weedeater that had an air leak and was sucking air around the cylinder and I need to see that video can someone please direct me to it
I would automatically change the spark plugs in your machines as a service to the buyers of the machines. They do go bad, even with a little spark. Scrimping on a normal maintenance part doesn't make sense to me.
The magnets on the flywheel and the gap between the coil might be off due to the bolts holding it in position if it has moved from a business card gap between the 2 it won't fire on the correct timing and possibly a good cleaning could be in order on the magnets and on the coil arms if dirty could cause a misfire
I don’t think I’ve ever had a problem or negative result with an E3 plug-in you can try changing it to an Ollie and see what happens but I don’t think it’ll make much difference I think it would be better off to invest in a clown car for a $13 saw on Amazon with positive reviews and try that before you got there I’m at the minimum someone on the altar sonic cleaner will charge you 20 just to clean the car up and put it back together
Love your videos! Excellent narration on the why's and how's. Always complete and to the point. I had this surging problem on a Briggs 13hp vertical riding mower. A valve adjustment solved the problem.
very nice work, thank you Rickey Mitchell
I used e3 plugs in motorized bikes before and had no issues. I then used one in my four wheeler and it started backfiring! I was worried at first but the only thing I changed was the spark plug, so I put the ngk back in and the backfiring stopped. Won't ever use an e3 again. As far as I can tell it's a gimmick and they're very expensive, especially for a product from china.
They are gimmicky junk. I use NGK or Denso plugs in about everything modern.
I had a mower with the same symptoms and after going through everything, it had a bit too much oil. It didn't smoke while running but when stated, it smoked for a few seconds. Emptied oil, removed spark plug, pinched gas line, stood mower up on its side (carb down), generously sprayed carb cleaner and let sit to drip dry. Filled oil and one pull start with perfect idle. I'll be checking the rockers too for full inspections.
nice work
I've never actually used one of these plugs and use the old standby J8's or an NGK for the newer stuff but if it works, good. My pal at his saw shop has seen the bigger Kohlers, the V's with bad cams. I know Stihl 4-mix had a run of stripped cam gears and magnetos. My old stuff just keeps wheezing along. You did good and GBWYou!
Worked for a lawn mowing company doing maintenance for a minute. It was almost a daily occurrence to have to change coils on a 4-mix (FS111).
Great work. I think the older kohler engines have issues like this more often.
it would seem that way.
I'm glad you guys give me the heads up about those E3 plugs before I actually bought one. I'm more of the NGK or champion type myself..
nothing wrong with them, I just don't buy them.
I have a mower with that Kohler 149cc engine 6.75 ftlb torque on the label. I found it by the side of the road and it's been sitting for at least five years untouched by me as it's starter is busted. It's a non self propelled mower but has ball bearing wheels. The mower is an Australian brand SupaSwift with four blade cutting disc and not the usual bar blade you have over there.
I found a pair of mowers today, one with an Aussie Victa 160cc two stroke engine with rusty base and another almost identical Victa mower with a Tecumseh motor leaking oil everywhere. I'll assess the shape of each and possibly swap the two stroke over to the other one as it's body is in good shape.
sounds like a nice project. I swapped a self-propel system to a push model on an older Snapper. Not worth the time monetarily, but it was kinda fun.
@@M.TTT. and well worthwhile if you're going to use that mower yourself. Those Snapper self propelled systems are among the least troublesome. Even Honda can't get theirs right.
@@jamesfrench7299 yea the old snappers are pretty heavy duty and pull well. I ended up selling it since I didn't need it. Still have a Lawn-boy to sell also, but its a bit newer.
nice, I'd be interesting to know what you do with them.
I just had a cub cadet riding mower with the kohler command SV600 engine. the exhaust rocker came free and the exhaust push rod was bent. just replaced the head and hardware and its all good now.
wow, nice job.
I have had a couple of ngk oem plugs go bad and cause rough running or not starting, but that was on two-strokes. Both started and ran great, until they didn't. One was on an echo 2620 that l had for a month or two. It was a tick rich at idle, so l leaned it up a fuzz, and so far no issues. I dont know if that was the issue, because it ran rough after cleaning the plug, put a new plug in it and all is well. Great video!!
thank you Ethan Miller, no plug is going to last forever, even the NGK's need replacing sometimes.
Yeah, l replace my plugs and filters yearly, Unless they (plugs mainly) need replaced sooner. But l would expect them to last longer than a month on a brand new machine. Thanks for the response, l learn a lot from your videos!!
I like that spark plug tester, going on my wish list.
you'll like it, it's cool to have in the garage.
I believe you can test a spark plug if you have an ohm meter. If the plug has a letter "r" in its number code, it has an inbuilt resistor between the plug cap and centre terminal - should be roughly 10k ohms, if a lot higher will weaken the spark. Plugs with no letter r have no resistor and should have no or very little resistance. Also, should be infinite resistance between the top cap and metal threads of the plug - if there's a reading the ceramic insulation is breaking down. Hope this helps.
thank you Mark Pablo.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE just looked up my notes regarding the plugs I've changed ( I'm into electronics, sad I know!), And new plugs range from 5.7k to 12.5k resistance ( if they have a resistor that is). I only use NGK or Champion plugs, but I've never used a generic brand, so can't comment on those.
My moms mower had this issue and after changing plug to ngk and adjusting the valves that didn’t fix it. I did the same thing and checked the valves and the rocker stud came loose so I put some loctite on it and re adjusted the valves and that didn’t fix it. I then went into the carb and it was clean on inside and needle and seat were working properly and all jets were clear of debris. I found a tiny inline filter inside the fuel line so I pulled that out and spliced in an external filter like on the riding mowers and that fixed the issue. I’m guessing the inline filter was causing a small restriction of fuel supply and would cause it to surge and want to run rough but after replacing that filter there was no more issues with how it ran and it surged for a couple seconds when cold but then cleared up and ran good
nice work.
I think it could be the spark plug. Where can I get the spark plug check box? Both of your links are the same
are they? let me fix that. thanks.
On any other engine I would suspect the spark plug first, however past experience tells me it is unlikely to help with the skipping on one of these. I’d still put an NGK in there, I don’t like those E3 plugs at all and I have had issues with them too.
thank you mjg263
Hey bro what's up? This mower looks a 💯% better in the after pics bro. For a used mower it looks like a new mower.
my thoughts too, thank you Ramadin Sookhoo.
I'm curious about why you're not very fond of E3, I haven't really had any bad experience with them
It's not just E3 plugs but other Generic plugs, like it,. I would always recommend OEM plugs.
Put a bosch iridium plug in it and that should help alot. Other than that just make sure the carburetor is clean and clear. Kohler engines have always been great to me and I have ran the heck out of them. Definitely want to get the engine speed back down to the safe rpm. Well within fifty rpms from stock should be fine for the internals connecting rod, piston, bearings and push rods.
thank you Shawn Dubay
OEM plugs are for a reason. Personally, I would bin that plug, & fit the proper one.
you got that right.
The problem with E3 plugs is inconsistent spark as the spark travels around giving incomplete burn.
that's what I can see too. A regular plug works for me.
I believe if the plug looks bad, it's best to install a new quality plug, such as a Champion or NGK. 4 years ago, we had a large paver project done and the contractors Stihl concrete saw crapped out one day. The worker went to the local big box store, bought a proper plug, returned and installed the new plug. One pull and the project continued on. For typically $5 or less, why gamble?
agreed
Do you have a link to the spark plug tester or Where are you got it
yes it should be in the description
Change the plug. It's easy enough and you will rule out a possible source of the problem. Check the gap too. Thanks IHG
no problem and thank you A Patterson for your time.
I just picked one up yesterday
I drained the float bowl and tank flushed out the fuel line and replaced the air filter. It started the same way, I worked it for about a half an hour and it surged up for about five seconds and quit running. Start with the float and then look at the timing?
no, make it easy and replace the carb, fuel line, clean the fuel filter screen and clean the vent holes in the fuel cap. The timing is not the issue with this one.
@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I'll give your advise a shot. Thanks, I'll write you and let you know how it goes. Great channel.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
I would definitely put the OEM plug in it and clean the carb.
Good call! thank you Brian King
I like using oem plug or as close as possible. Why? Because the manufacturer went through development and research as well as testing to find out what works best and performs well over time in their engines
very well said.
I think it is the spark plug, sometimes plain and simple plugs work better on small engines because of the small combustion chamber.
you got that right, thank you Above Average JOE, for your time.
An old mechanic told me that sometimes spark plugs develop a condition called "spiders". It will short out the plug. All the cleaning in the world won't fix it. Solution is to get a new plug. I lean toward NGK plugs. Seem to have better luck than with any others
nice, I'll have to look into that.
Piston must be top dead centre etc on measuring valve lash..
Answer it may be this type of spark plug as you saw it’s consistently was poor on the left, replacement to a standard spark plug may resolve the issue, but valve lash was out.
you can do it either way, I used to do it that way, but I find this way, to be almost just as good and faster.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I haven’t done it yet, but the time will come with one of the Honda’s or Chanda Engines.
Any idea why my Fwd toro lawnmower keeps getting clogged around the pulley? It gets clogged and then the wheels won't turn when I engage the self propel. Have to clean it out after every mow. Question is for the whole thread as well. Thanks.
sure, is the deck clean and is the blade sharp?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yes I sharpened it about 3 cuts ago. No grass on the deck. I don't usually mow when grass is damp. Also I cut the grass high so I'm taking large amounts of grass at a time.
Do a video on how to fix the self propel thingy please.
it depends what the part of the self propel you're talking about?
Sounds like my pressure washer
How much would lawnmowers be before you fix them if they run like this?
almost the same price, most just care, that it starts and runs, not that runs butter smooth.
Good video. I wish there were more follow up videos to come to some conclusions.
Thank you.
unfortunately most all the stuff, leaves and doesn't come back. But thanks for the suggestion
Kohler's are terrible, many issues and oil leaks, they have a leak kit for about $40 for valve cover leaks on certain models. Also blown out sump gaskets are an issue. The plug can cause issues, I always change customers plugs as part of a tune up. Check the low speed jet on the carb, that can usually be the cause of surging and hard starting. Also a partcially plugged main jet can cause poor performance. Thanks for the video.
thank you Waterman one, it's definitely got a few issues.
I only run OEM plugs in the equipment I fix
very nice, thank you Mercury Demers.
Change the plug! It’s a cheap locally available part. If it doesn’t fix it, at least you have eliminated it as the source of the problem. There’s not much worse than spending hours hunting down a problem only to find the cheap part you decided not to replace was the source of your agony all along. My rule is always eliminate the basics, cheap, and easy possibilities first.
that's a very good rule, thank you Bruce Coleman.
I found a toro mower on the side off the road today it was very clean but the engine was stuck so I left it at the junk pile
I would have tried to free the engine first but I understand why.
I would switch the plug and see if there is any difference
that's a good idea.
Im looking to be directed to the video on an mtd weedeater that had an air leak and was sucking air around the cylinder and I need to see that video can someone please direct me to it
I only had one do that, but unfortunately it was a poulan leaf blower.
I think it’s the spark plug and it looks like they did not keep the maintenance up on that lawnmower so I would say you should clean the car about to
thank you Juan Fernandez.
I would automatically change the spark plugs in your machines as a service to the buyers of the machines. They do go bad, even with a little spark. Scrimping on a normal maintenance part doesn't make sense to me.
you make a good point. thank you George Mazich.
Ignition coil not lined up properly is my thought causing a misfire
I see, but are you referring to the air gap?
The magnets on the flywheel and the gap between the coil might be off due to the bolts holding it in position if it has moved from a business card gap between the 2 it won't fire on the correct timing and possibly a good cleaning could be in order on the magnets and on the coil arms if dirty could cause a misfire
it is the spark plug that causes the engine to misfire
it could be but on this engine, you'll need to check the valve lash as well.
I don’t think I’ve ever had a problem or negative result with an E3 plug-in you can try changing it to an Ollie and see what happens but I don’t think it’ll make much difference I think it would be better off to invest in a clown car for a $13 saw on Amazon with positive reviews and try that before you got there I’m at the minimum someone on the altar sonic cleaner will charge you 20 just to clean the car up and put it back together
thank you Joe Brock
i think try a new spark plug first before replacing or ultrasonic cleaning the carb
that makes sense to me.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE i fix old mowers to that what I would try first
I’m almost 100% sure it’s the spark plug, but then again I’ve been wrong at least a dozen times today already.
it's worth a shot, thank you William Snow.
The skipping could be the spark plug . 🙄🙄??
possibly especially since it's an aftermarket plug.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE for sure thanks for the heart young man 😎👍 Those spark plugs are not worth the time to get
A spark plug is supposed to be cookie brown not black
absolutely right.
Its never the spark plug till it is. I would change it
yes sir.