Maaaaaate, I have a 1985 150. Hard to find informative how to videos. You have done exceptionally well here. Thank you. Please post more. I’m encouraged to do the same now.
This is incredible. Subscribed. Have a 91 Black Max 150 I’ll be doing oil injection delete on in the spring and this is the first video I’ve found that actually makes sense.
Excellent video with great detail. I paid the marina to install the block off kit (due to having dual 1993 150 Black Max's it was difficult for me to get to the starboard engine), but they neglected to disconnect the alarm box wires. My boat does not have a temp gauge and I want to keep the temp alarm in place while getting rid the oil beeps. Can I do this?
Dealing with I believe to much oil is getting in faster Lot of smoke Cylinders are all 120psi Also on muffs it runs normal in water it bogs and dies and blue smoke
Prime the fuel system without it running, my guess is the bulb will get soft and not hold prime, and you will see fuel/oil coming out of the exhaust. This will be caused by a failed diaphragm in the fuel pump.
In this case it was not noticeable, it is normal for more smoke to be noticeable after removing an oil injection system because there is nothing bringing the level down ever it's always max. Generally alot of smoke is from incorrect air/fuel/oil mixture hitting combustion, could be running rich overall just too much fuel, not enough air, could be too much oil, they all smoke some by the nature of burning oil intentionally as a 2 stroke especially carbureted. Might want to check your fuel mixture, the engine could also be running rich meaning too much fuel not necessarily a mixture issue, alot of blue smoke can also be gear case oil being burned in the exhaust.
Great video. Any thoughts on the best way to get all of the fuel out of the boat tank so I can make sure I am running 50:1 and I don't have any residual fuel diluting the premix?
Take the end at the motor off the fuel line and squeeze the bulb until a siphon is started with the open fuel line in a gas can. The drop line in the fuel tank should be near the bottom after siphon is finished keep squeezing the bulb, then just add a little extra oil to first tank
an aluminum oil reservoir? never seen or heard of such a thing on an outboard. If you mean the fuel tank that's where the mixed fuel goes after you're done :D
followed your direction in the video, appreciated the straight forward ness. found after i removed alarm or had module disconnected my wot timing was very retarded. new boat to me, unsure if it was like this as i only ran it on a hose when i bought it. im thinking the timing was out prior to me messing with it but not sure if the module or warning retards timing to limp it home? boat wouldn't get on plane and bucked and farted like crazy till timing was set properly.
Nothing shown in the video could effect timing. Start with compression test, then test spark on all 6, (sounds like you're running on 3 and aggresively progressed timing). Next check fueling issues, the fuel pump diaphragm is always bad if not replaced, lines, carbs etc. THEN and only then start messing with timing and don't forget about idle stabalizer which can usually just be removed especially if you're capable of timing an engine.
I've got the exact engine...I'm having a problem with the fuel overload behind the reed's at an idle.... stall's and dies...no problem after in gear and moving...just if I sit at idle to long it seems to flood out...carbs have been rebuilt with new boles and all....do you think low compression is the problem...I'm only getting around 85 to 90 lbs...on all cylinders...done head gaskets also... cylinder walls look great no scaring no drag piston lines... smooth on all cylinders....do you think the low compression is the problem at idle ?????
anything under 90psi on a cylinder is a bad motor, that being said check for fuel coming out of the exhaust, the diaphragm on the fuel pump can cause that symptom and also send fuel out the exhaust especially at idle when the fuel demand is not high, at higher rpms even if the diaphragm is bad often it will still run out.
I have a 1987 Mercury 135 hp, I want to do a oil delete but am not sure how the engine would get the oil and not burn up. I do understand that oil in the gas could reach the pistons, but what about the crankshaft?
2 strokes use the crank like a compressor, the air/fuel mixture comes right in the crank through the reed valves. On one side of the piston is the combustion chamber, where the piston is compressing the air/fuel mixture and capturing the energy released by the ignition of the fuel. On the other side of the piston is the crankcase, where the piston is creating a vacuum to suck in air/fuel from the carburetor through the reed valve and then pressurizing the crankcase so that air/fuel which is in the crank case is forced into the combustion chamber. The sides of the piston are acting like valves, covering and uncovering the intake and exhaust ports drilled into the side of the cylinder wall.
@@rumnboats7612 Thank You, That makes sense now, I saw the ports drilled into the cylinder walls. I appreciate the help, I could not find the answer anywhere on the net.
Will the bushing stay in place without the shaft? maybe...perhaps some models it's more likely to not kick out. However there will be a bushing left inside your engine with nothing to keep it in place, and a cheap piece of plastic to keep it there seems alot safer than avoiding it.
Looking to buy a Mercury 150 xr6 with low compression on one cylinder. It has been converted to premix. Not sure how to look for the addition of the oil injection bypass.
low compression below 90? because that means powerhead rebuild. The oil pump will be missing and the plastic cover in its place 11:23 oil pump. 14:29 plug installed.
Just buy the kit...it's under $20 As stated the shaft keeps a bushing in place, which can come out and destroy your engine. So if you pull the pump gear and shaft that spins the pump out of the crank case and then just put the pump back in just not attached the bushing inside is free to come loose and fly around your engine.
@@rumnboats7612 thank you very much I will try to buy the missing part because in Romania it is harder to find, especially for old engines... otherwise I will make it myself
@10:39 there is a green wire that runs under a thicker gauge red wire, circles back and appears to terminate into the right side of the switch pack. I have a very similar engine and had to replace the power pack(s). When replacing - i lost track of exactly where to reconnect this green wire. You see how the pack has six connections running vertically. I feel that green wire which has a ring connector likely goes on that 4th connector from the top. Would you be able to confirm that for me? Many tks brother. Great vid by the way.
Third terminal up from the bottom on the outer power pack if a 6 cylinder has a green/white wire and that's where your green wire goes. Also that thicker red wire goes on the top right of the outer pack with the red/white wire.
I’ve got a question, I’m building a 83 hydrostream viper with a 83 2.4 200 mercury. My question is it has a idle stabilization module above the carbs that has all the insulation missing from the red wire all the way into the module so I can’t fix it. I can’t find one of these anywhere and hear it can be deleted and everyone has a different story as how to delete it. I was wondering if you new the proper procedure to delete this module. Thanks Jamie from Gloucester MASS
There's a chance you can just rip it and it's wiring out of there and win "don't remove other grounds", You could just replace the box they're under $100, some modules advance timing again above 5800 rpms, most of them only advance timing if idle rpm drops below 550. In order to remove it you will likely need to be able to adjust the timing on your engine. I can't really type out how to do it.
Would there be a downside to making the two oil tanks/reservoirs into 50:1 mix and in addition to 50:1 in a gas tank? Hence, all fluid going into the engine is 50:1. Some from the gas tank and some from the oil tanks.
Lots, the oil pump isn't meant for fuel, the rate at which it adds oil which will now be fuel won't be correct, you will still need to remove the alarms, there's another mile of fuel line to worry about leaking etc. etc. My question would be what would you stand to gain by doing that?
@@rumnboats7612 Seems like a lot of folks go pre-mix out of caution. Obviously if it's a known bad system, then it makes sense. I could see your point re: the pump/lines not being ready for fuel. But if the gas gets mixed 50:1 and I were to put 50:1 in the oil tanks, it would always be 50:1 heading into the engine so there's no difference the incoming fuel just a little more when going fast and less at idle/slow. I don't know why the alarm would go off as my limited understanding is that the alarm is about the level in the tanks (or else everyone would know when the mix/injection system has gone haywire). I'm about to pick up a boat with a Merc and would like to avoid having to do unnecessary work if there's a simple work around, if possible, as I don't think the system is faulty.
@@JohnWisconsin If you're going to run 50:1 anyway do the delete it's not a big deal or expensive. There are 2 oil alarms one for the level in the tank in the engine and one for oil in the pump
There's really no reason to not remove it, the block off kit costs like $15. You could remove the lines and cap them as shown in the video, cap the pump and run it. However the pump would be running dry and you'd be leaving the shaft running inside the crank case which could cause issue due to the pump not having oil which creates some resistance.
You know what I think you're right, I just called gave my serial number and got what they said. I will order the 2.4 one and check out the differences before I run it any more.
Maaaaaate, I have a 1985 150. Hard to find informative how to videos. You have done exceptionally well here.
Thank you.
Please post more. I’m encouraged to do the same now.
Thank you! it's storage season here :( more to come over the winter!
Thank you for having such a detailed explanation. These are hard to find.
Excellent service video my man.... details are critical...
Thanks. Great video. I'm about to do the same. Beeps but oil ok full. Done with oil injection 👍🏻
This is incredible. Subscribed. Have a 91 Black Max 150 I’ll be doing oil injection delete on in the spring and this is the first video I’ve found that actually makes sense.
Glad it helps!!!
Hi did you ever find the part number for the 150 delete kit.
I have exactly the same model.
Thanks
Professional for Mr. Rum N Boats!
Good job. Nice and clear.
Nice job. I am here to find location of parts for repairs. Very helpful video. Believe it or not not much has changed till my 01 mercury 200hp efi
yeah, 2 stroke merc stuff is pretty standard. not much changes till you get to heavy gross 4 strokes
2:01 very informative. Thank you
Great video.
If you do more work on your engine please post i have a 200hp 1985 this video was super helpful
Love the name!! Cheers!!
Excellent video with great detail. I paid the marina to install the block off kit (due to having dual 1993 150 Black Max's it was difficult for me to get to the starboard engine), but they neglected to disconnect the alarm box wires. My boat does not have a temp gauge and I want to keep the temp alarm in place while getting rid the oil beeps. Can I do this?
so long as you only remove the wires described you're only removing the oil alarm
Wow best video I seen on this just sub
Dealing with I believe to much oil is getting in faster
Lot of smoke
Cylinders are all 120psi
Also on muffs it runs normal in water it bogs and dies and blue smoke
Prime the fuel system without it running, my guess is the bulb will get soft and not hold prime, and you will see fuel/oil coming out of the exhaust. This will be caused by a failed diaphragm in the fuel pump.
@@rumnboats7612 I’ll research what you told me
Up to -90 2.4 from -91 2.5 Liter
After doing this and running 50:1 premix. Do you get more smoke at start up and while running? I sure do
In this case it was not noticeable, it is normal for more smoke to be noticeable after removing an oil injection system because there is nothing bringing the level down ever it's always max. Generally alot of smoke is from incorrect air/fuel/oil mixture hitting combustion, could be running rich overall just too much fuel, not enough air, could be too much oil, they all smoke some by the nature of burning oil intentionally as a 2 stroke especially carbureted. Might want to check your fuel mixture, the engine could also be running rich meaning too much fuel not necessarily a mixture issue, alot of blue smoke can also be gear case oil being burned in the exhaust.
@@rumnboats7612 thanks mate, might be time for a carb rebuild anyways.
Great video. Any thoughts on the best way to get all of the fuel out of the boat tank so I can make sure I am running 50:1 and I don't have any residual fuel diluting the premix?
Take the end at the motor off the fuel line and squeeze the bulb until a siphon is started with the open fuel line in a gas can. The drop line in the fuel tank should be near the bottom after siphon is finished keep squeezing the bulb, then just add a little extra oil to first tank
That or pull the tank and clean it, depending on your skill level and time available
My motor has an aluminum tank where yours does not.... and I already ordered the part
an aluminum oil reservoir? never seen or heard of such a thing on an outboard. If you mean the fuel tank that's where the mixed fuel goes after you're done :D
Where does your fuel enrichment valve power wire connect to? My pictures don't show where it was connected to and the engine won't start.
You mean the choke? I’d have to open one up to remember, should be able to choke it manually and test start on muffs
followed your direction in the video, appreciated the straight forward ness. found after i removed alarm or had module disconnected my wot timing was very retarded. new boat to me, unsure if it was like this as i only ran it on a hose when i bought it. im thinking the timing was out prior to me messing with it but not sure if the module or warning retards timing to limp it home?
boat wouldn't get on plane and bucked and farted like crazy till timing was set properly.
Nothing shown in the video could effect timing. Start with compression test, then test spark on all 6, (sounds like you're running on 3 and aggresively progressed timing). Next check fueling issues, the fuel pump diaphragm is always bad if not replaced, lines, carbs etc. THEN and only then start messing with timing and don't forget about idle stabalizer which can usually just be removed especially if you're capable of timing an engine.
Great video. I have a 2005 xr6 150, do you think it should be deleted and if so how different is it from this video?
not very different, and if no issues run the injection
I've got the exact engine...I'm having a problem with the fuel overload behind the reed's at an idle.... stall's and dies...no problem after in gear and moving...just if I sit at idle to long it seems to flood out...carbs have been rebuilt with new boles and all....do you think low compression is the problem...I'm only getting around 85 to 90 lbs...on all cylinders...done head gaskets also... cylinder walls look great no scaring no drag piston lines... smooth on all cylinders....do you think the low compression is the problem at idle ?????
anything under 90psi on a cylinder is a bad motor, that being said check for fuel coming out of the exhaust, the diaphragm on the fuel pump can cause that symptom and also send fuel out the exhaust especially at idle when the fuel demand is not high, at higher rpms even if the diaphragm is bad often it will still run out.
Will this work on my 1996 200 v6 mercury out board
I have a 1987 Mercury 135 hp, I want to do a oil delete but am not sure how the engine would get the oil and not burn up. I do understand that oil in the gas could reach the pistons, but what about the crankshaft?
2 strokes use the crank like a compressor, the air/fuel mixture comes right in the crank through the reed valves. On one side of the piston is the combustion chamber, where the piston is compressing the air/fuel mixture and capturing the energy released by the ignition of the fuel. On the other side of the piston is the crankcase, where the piston is creating a vacuum to suck in air/fuel from the carburetor through the reed valve and then pressurizing the crankcase so that air/fuel which is in the crank case is forced into the combustion chamber. The sides of the piston are acting like valves, covering and uncovering the intake and exhaust ports drilled into the side of the cylinder wall.
@@rumnboats7612 Thank You, That makes sense now, I saw the ports drilled into the cylinder walls. I appreciate the help, I could not find the answer anywhere on the net.
@@ryanjames5799 :) hit that sub button :D
I'll mix 50 to 1 then make a level mark on the engine tank, if it goes down its working right?😊
yup
Hi there... Do you need a block off kit for the 1989 100 HP four cylinder motor? Thanks
Will the bushing stay in place without the shaft? maybe...perhaps some models it's more likely to not kick out. However there will be a bushing left inside your engine with nothing to keep it in place, and a cheap piece of plastic to keep it there seems alot safer than avoiding it.
Looking to buy a Mercury 150 xr6 with low compression on one cylinder. It has been converted to premix. Not sure how to look for the addition of the oil injection bypass.
low compression below 90? because that means powerhead rebuild. The oil pump will be missing and the plastic cover in its place 11:23 oil pump. 14:29 plug installed.
@@rumnboats7612 he says it's the top cylinder on the starboard side. 40 PSI. It runs good. Have video
@@harrycash8713 40 psi likely means a scored cylinder it won't run out under load short of a rebuild
Would this work on a 1996 EFI motor
Hi!
what happens if I don't put the plastic part but just remove the gear from the inside? then I leave the oil pump in its place..
Just buy the kit...it's under $20 As stated the shaft keeps a bushing in place, which can come out and destroy your engine. So if you pull the pump gear and shaft that spins the pump out of the crank case and then just put the pump back in just not attached the bushing inside is free to come loose and fly around your engine.
@@rumnboats7612 thank you very much
I will try to buy the missing part because in Romania it is harder to find, especially for old engines...
otherwise I will make it myself
Brooo just for this motor on a boat I got. Idk how to mix please help.
2.6 ounces of 2stroke oil per 1 gallon of gas if you've removed oil injection.
@10:39 there is a green wire that runs under a thicker gauge red wire, circles back and appears to terminate into the right side of the switch pack. I have a very similar engine and had to replace the power pack(s). When replacing - i lost track of exactly where to reconnect this green wire. You see how the pack has six connections running vertically. I feel that green wire which has a ring connector likely goes on that 4th connector from the top. Would you be able to confirm that for me? Many tks brother. Great vid by the way.
Third terminal up from the bottom on the outer power pack if a 6 cylinder has a green/white wire and that's where your green wire goes. Also that thicker red wire goes on the top right of the outer pack with the red/white wire.
I’ve got a question, I’m building a 83 hydrostream viper with a 83 2.4 200 mercury. My question is it has a idle stabilization module above the carbs that has all the insulation missing from the red wire all the way into the module so I can’t fix it. I can’t find one of these anywhere and hear it can be deleted and everyone has a different story as how to delete it. I was wondering if you new the proper procedure to delete this module. Thanks Jamie from Gloucester MASS
There's a chance you can just rip it and it's wiring out of there and win "don't remove other grounds", You could just replace the box they're under $100, some modules advance timing again above 5800 rpms, most of them only advance timing if idle rpm drops below 550. In order to remove it you will likely need to be able to adjust the timing on your engine. I can't really type out how to do it.
you can get one from ebay, amazon, Tim's outboard, any good merc dealer
Would there be a downside to making the two oil tanks/reservoirs into 50:1 mix and in addition to 50:1 in a gas tank? Hence, all fluid going into the engine is 50:1. Some from the gas tank and some from the oil tanks.
Lots, the oil pump isn't meant for fuel, the rate at which it adds oil which will now be fuel won't be correct, you will still need to remove the alarms, there's another mile of fuel line to worry about leaking etc. etc. My question would be what would you stand to gain by doing that?
@@rumnboats7612 Seems like a lot of folks go pre-mix out of caution. Obviously if it's a known bad system, then it makes sense. I could see your point re: the pump/lines not being ready for fuel. But if the gas gets mixed 50:1 and I were to put 50:1 in the oil tanks, it would always be 50:1 heading into the engine so there's no difference the incoming fuel just a little more when going fast and less at idle/slow. I don't know why the alarm would go off as my limited understanding is that the alarm is about the level in the tanks (or else everyone would know when the mix/injection system has gone haywire). I'm about to pick up a boat with a Merc and would like to avoid having to do unnecessary work if there's a simple work around, if possible, as I don't think the system is faulty.
@@JohnWisconsin If you're going to run 50:1 anyway do the delete it's not a big deal or expensive. There are 2 oil alarms one for the level in the tank in the engine and one for oil in the pump
@@JohnWisconsin If you just don't want to, you can just run 50:1 in the tank and run the oil injection won't hurt anything just burn extra oil
Did you still put the oil reservoir?
negative
Do you have to remove the oil pump or can you run them over with the oil pump in it
There's really no reason to not remove it, the block off kit costs like $15. You could remove the lines and cap them as shown in the video, cap the pump and run it. However the pump would be running dry and you'd be leaving the shaft running inside the crank case which could cause issue due to the pump not having oil which creates some resistance.
Focus.................!
the camera is the hardest part hah
Your engine is 2.4 not 2.5 Liter, wrong kit ???
You know what I think you're right, I just called gave my serial number and got what they said. I will order the 2.4 one and check out the differences before I run it any more.
the dummy plug is same for 2.4 or 2.5 so we're good :D
And your water pump is burned
as you can see at 25:50 it's pumping strong and stayed strong during test, temp even on all 6
you didn't watch the video.
Would I be able to do this on a 98 mercury 120 sport jet ?
And would this plug kit be the same for it or would I have to find a different one for the 120 ?
@@bretthaston8460 see that little package with the block off kit? call that number they'll hook u up
@@bretthaston8460 800 621 7761