I'm happy with my Mamiya 6...so happy I bought two more fixer uppers. My lens had scratched coatings and despite cleaning all surfaces it looks a bit hazy too but the negatives are awesome!
You can use a Kodak slip on series 6 filter adapter and toss in a yellow filter to up the contrast. It slips on easy (36.5mm size) Patch small holes on your bellows with black Flexseal until you can replace the bellows. My Ilford ISO 125 negatives are sharp and contrasty. Shade your lens with your hat when needed for landscapes.
@@JTobiason That's a good point! It's sure a nice looking camera though. You might just have. to reserve it for the conditions that you know it performs nice in.
If you haven’t fixed the focus yet I have a video on how to do that. Even though I have the K2, which is a simplified model, I think the process is pretty much the same. Good luck)
Like you, I have a new Mamiya 6 and a very old 6x6 folding camera, in my case a Zeiss Ikon Nettar. I've spent a fortune on the Nettar getting it cleaned, adjusted, fixed. The pictures aren't bad, and I like the way it goes in a coat pocket but that advantage is lost a little by the need to carry a separate rangefinder and exposure meter. And I don't use it much. As where the Mamiya 6 is my favourite camera of all.
Yea. In 95% of my work, there is nothing like the modern Mamiya 6. It's my favorite camera ever made. Just makes me so happy to use it. Buuuuut, I guess I'm still on the lookout for a medium format camera that I could bring while running in the mtns (or I should just stop and use 35mm).
I have the same feeling for this camera. Mine came in with the coating issues on the back element. It does fine as long as there isn't any bright spots in the backgrounds. I have the sekkor lens. Are the olympus lenses better?
Yea. That makes total sense. And honestly, I can't speak to their comparison because I've really seen them side by side. Both that I've owned over the years had the Olympus lens.
The problem in the camera from the video is the Olympus lens. It is well documented that those are all fogged while the copies with Mamiya Sekor lens are much better. Apparently Olympus didn’t use the best coatings for those lenses.
As you said on the end of your video, you can not expect the same results from the two so different Mamiya’s. I have the Mamiya 6MF, and love it very much, and a bunch of folders, recently bought the Mamiya 6 IV folder. As you already said on your video, we are always waiting for a miracle. The film and these types of cameras are not made for scanning’s but to darkroom prints, and maybe that’s why. But the focus is absolute critical, the zone focus gives just acceptable results. A lens hood can also help with the contrast. Beautiful trail. Cheers
Yea. I know I can't expect the M6MF quality out of the old M6f. I'll stop hoping. But I hear that hood comment a lot. I don't think I've ever seen one for that camera and it would be an enormous pain because you'd have to attach/remove it every time you open/close the camera. A hood wouldn't fit in the mechanism. In the end, I just need to stop expecting so much from such old a camera.
@@JTobiason Yes, it’s a pain to put the hood on and off. But at least when the sun is sideways to front, we have a little help. I take exclusively black and white pictures on film, but it’s noticeable anyway. There is a specific lens hood for Mamiya 6 folder, it is a slip-on with a screw. Under the accessory shoo you find adjustment screws for the rangefinder patch, in some models, others have it under the lid, it is very simple to take off and adjust, but the lens needs collimating first. You find specific videos how to, on TH-cam. Japan vintage camera shows at some point, to clean the haze, he uses toothpaste, just a touch and very careful with very light pressure, he says. If it can remove the coating, I don’t know but have tried with successes and the coating is still there. The folders have a singular form factor and appeal, that’s why they are so popular. Best of luck with your Mamiya 6 folder. Cheers
My Mamiya 6 IV either hits a home run or it bombs. The image quality improved immensely after sending it to Dan Daniels Camera in upstate NY for a CLA and a bellows replacement.
Having owned two, both with Sekor lenses, I have pondered this question. I used to think that it was the difference between the Olympus made lenses used on some cameras and the Mamiya made SeKors on most. (Mamiya made lenses in the 1950s were nothing to write home about.) But the lens here is an Olympus., I assumed poor coatings on the Sekors, but the lens here is the Olympus, so my theory goes in the crapper.
I think the bigger issue is how well cleaned the inner lens unit is. The shutter basically sits between two lenses. One that is built into the camera and one that screws into the front. The screw in lens is really easy to take apart/clean. But the inner lens, you have to put it into bulb mode and then clean while the leaf shutter is open. It's a pain, and therefore is way harder to actually do a good job cleaning.
@@JTobiason Actually no. It's a 4 elements in 4 groups, so you can unscrew the front as you did to clean two side of it, and use a spanner wrench to unscrew the back from film chamber and clean that too. Of coz if some haze formed between the elements then yeah it's a tough job, otherwise it is fairly easy to clean. Seems that there is light leaks in your bellow which may also affect the contrast a bit. As for the rangefinder, a tiny screw near the focusing knob can be unscrewed, exposing a hole which leads to the horizontal rangefinder adjustment bit, use a flathead to adjust. As for the vertical one, you'll have to unscrew the coldshoe which is a bit tricky but not impossible. It's a fun project if you really intend to improve it.
@@randallstewart175 Update: It now seems that Olympus sold lenses to a number of camera makers in the 1950-60s, and they used lens coating which proved to be crap. I'm not claiming that Mamiya made lenses were better, but the coatings were better. The lenses were Tessar, 4-element copies. There is not a dime's worth of difference between any of them. (Unless you consider the Rokkor taking lens in the Autocord TLR. In that Lens, Minolta found a sweet spot that even Zeiss never matched in its Tessars.)
@@rickyleung2576 For some reason, those Oly lenses defy cleaning. Their problem is probably not a matter of dirty/hazy or clean, but hazing of the lens coating material itself. There is absolutely nothing about a mint Mamiya 6 folder which would make it worth having the lens disassembled and recoated to correct that problem. If that's your problem, its to the display shelf or to the bin.
His Mamiya 6 folder was made in a variety of models and variations of features from 1947 into the later 1950s, so it is older in fact and older in terms of what Mamiya was doing as a camera maker than the 1960s he suggested. Mamiya was into building lower cost cameras for sale by other companies under their own name. They built a few cameras of average quality under their own name as well. They were not in the business of trying to build top quality industry leaders like its Mamiya 6 from the 1980s. In the early 80s I hunted for a 6x6 120 film folder. I looked into the Zeiss Super Ikonta B for a while, but it is too heavy, fussy, and optically just average at best. I settled on a Mamiya 6, and like here, was less than happy because of excessive lens flare, bad coatings, whatever, just like here. I replaced that camera with another Mamiya 6 in like-new condition. I've never really examined that camera, because I shortly thereafter acquired a Fuji GS645, which after a new bellows, proved to be a marvelous camera of the folder type. (Until he placed them side by side, I never realized how small the modern Mamiya 6 is - surprised.)
Thanks for the history. It definitely is no comparison in actual image quality between the six folding and the modern 6MF, but it is fun to put them together. I do still love the experience of using the old one. They're just fun to use. and it is really interesting to actually have them together.
@@JTobiason I've been lusting after the more modern mamiya 6 ever since I saw your video. As a student at the moment it's out of my budget but as soon as I have a proper job I'll be getting one. I got the folding version after I saw your video as well 😂 haven't fully worked out how to load it properly yet though so I don't get a full 12 shots per roll
Oh no! I'm sorry you're having troubles loading. I will try to make a short or a video specifically explaining that. It's a little funky, but once you get it, it's pretty easy (especially if you have the Automat version). In the meantime, I think Ed Pavez did an OK job explaining loading: th-cam.com/video/v9YT3MeRZrM/w-d-xo.html
Hmmm... Made in the 50s, not 60s. The haze on your lens is killing sharpness and causing flare. I suggest you clean the lenses, pick up a lens hood, and learn how to adjust the rangefinder (on you tube), and I think you will have much better results. The camera sold for the equivalent of $1400 back in the day, but all of these old lenses need a shade to manage flare, which is why you see them so often when sold with a case with a little lens hood case attached.
I get the "use a lens hood" suggestion all the time, but I honestly think that would be a major annoyance with this camera unless it was a folding one or something. To have to put it on/take off every time I open close the camera is kinda a deal breaker. One of the best things about this little thing is it's pocketability. That is totally my personal use case and opinion. But I love it because it's so easy to open/shoot/go.
@@JTobiason As long as the sun is not in the image, you can use your hand (or your friend) to shade the surface of the lens. With large format, we use the darkslide (which is what Ansel Adams did for his landscapes). Also, I saw someone mention you have pinholes in your bellows? If that is the case, that needs to be fixed, as each hole would act as a tiny aperture (like a pinhole camera) and form a secondary image. Probably the greatest single advance in photo technology between the 50s and the 80s was the invention of lens coatings that reduce or eliminate flare.
Thank you for the amazing, high quality, informative photos!
videos*!
Haha. I hope both the vids and photos are good. 👍
I'm happy with my Mamiya 6...so happy I bought two more fixer uppers. My lens had scratched coatings and despite cleaning all surfaces it looks a bit hazy too but the negatives are awesome!
It's a really rad camera. I haven't used it in a while and this is inspiring me to get it back out.
You can use a Kodak slip on series 6 filter adapter and toss in a yellow filter to up the contrast. It slips on easy (36.5mm size) Patch small holes on your bellows with black Flexseal until you can replace the bellows. My Ilford ISO 125 negatives are sharp and contrasty. Shade your lens with your hat when needed for landscapes.
Good tips! Thanks!
The Mamiya SIX however, with the single coated lenses, make for some epic monochrome images!
Totally. I have a few from Portugal in BW that I really love.
Can you use a uv or haze filter in the lens? It might help.
Maybe but i don't think it fits folding with a filter on. So that's kinda be a big pain to put on whenever using. Worth looking into though.
@@JTobiason That's a good point! It's sure a nice looking camera though. You might just have. to reserve it for the conditions that you know it performs nice in.
If you haven’t fixed the focus yet I have a video on how to do that. Even though I have the K2, which is a simplified model, I think the process is pretty much the same. Good luck)
Oh really! That's awesome. I haven't had a chance to work on it, but that would be super helpful. I'll check it out!
Like you, I have a new Mamiya 6 and a very old 6x6 folding camera, in my case a Zeiss Ikon Nettar. I've spent a fortune on the Nettar getting it cleaned, adjusted, fixed. The pictures aren't bad, and I like the way it goes in a coat pocket but that advantage is lost a little by the need to carry a separate rangefinder and exposure meter. And I don't use it much. As where the Mamiya 6 is my favourite camera of all.
Yea. In 95% of my work, there is nothing like the modern Mamiya 6. It's my favorite camera ever made. Just makes me so happy to use it. Buuuuut, I guess I'm still on the lookout for a medium format camera that I could bring while running in the mtns (or I should just stop and use 35mm).
@@JTobiason yes, the folder is good weekend i go out on my vintage motorcycle, I don't mind it rattling around in the pannier!
Your channel is really underrated
I appreciate it! Thanks!
I have the same feeling for this camera. Mine came in with the coating issues on the back element. It does fine as long as there isn't any bright spots in the backgrounds. I have the sekkor lens. Are the olympus lenses better?
Yea. That makes total sense. And honestly, I can't speak to their comparison because I've really seen them side by side. Both that I've owned over the years had the Olympus lens.
The problem in the camera from the video is the Olympus lens. It is well documented that those are all fogged while the copies with Mamiya Sekor lens are much better. Apparently Olympus didn’t use the best coatings for those lenses.
As you said on the end of your video, you can not expect the same results from the two so different Mamiya’s. I have the Mamiya 6MF, and love it very much, and a bunch of folders, recently bought the Mamiya 6 IV folder. As you already said on your video, we are always waiting for a miracle. The film and these types of cameras are not made for scanning’s but to darkroom prints, and maybe that’s why. But the focus is absolute critical, the zone focus gives just acceptable results. A lens hood can also help with the contrast. Beautiful trail. Cheers
Yea. I know I can't expect the M6MF quality out of the old M6f. I'll stop hoping. But I hear that hood comment a lot. I don't think I've ever seen one for that camera and it would be an enormous pain because you'd have to attach/remove it every time you open/close the camera. A hood wouldn't fit in the mechanism.
In the end, I just need to stop expecting so much from such old a camera.
@@JTobiason Yes, it’s a pain to put the hood on and off. But at least when the sun is sideways to front, we have a little help. I take exclusively black and white pictures on film, but it’s noticeable anyway. There is a specific lens hood for Mamiya 6 folder, it is a slip-on with a screw. Under the accessory shoo you find adjustment screws for the rangefinder patch, in some models, others have it under the lid, it is very simple to take off and adjust, but the lens needs collimating first. You find specific videos how to, on TH-cam. Japan vintage camera shows at some point, to clean the haze, he uses toothpaste, just a touch and very careful with very light pressure, he says. If it can remove the coating, I don’t know but have tried with successes and the coating is still there. The folders have a singular form factor and appeal, that’s why they are so popular. Best of luck with your Mamiya 6 folder. Cheers
My Mamiya 6 IV either hits a home run or it bombs. The image quality improved immensely after sending it to Dan Daniels Camera in upstate NY for a CLA and a bellows replacement.
Good to know. I'm usually a fan of fixing something over replacing. Thanks!
I would like to know why the Mamiya Folding have that hazed effect on the pictures.
Having owned two, both with Sekor lenses, I have pondered this question. I used to think that it was the difference between the Olympus made lenses used on some cameras and the Mamiya made SeKors on most. (Mamiya made lenses in the 1950s were nothing to write home about.) But the lens here is an Olympus., I assumed poor coatings on the Sekors, but the lens here is the Olympus, so my theory goes in the crapper.
I think the bigger issue is how well cleaned the inner lens unit is. The shutter basically sits between two lenses. One that is built into the camera and one that screws into the front. The screw in lens is really easy to take apart/clean. But the inner lens, you have to put it into bulb mode and then clean while the leaf shutter is open. It's a pain, and therefore is way harder to actually do a good job cleaning.
@@JTobiason Actually no.
It's a 4 elements in 4 groups, so you can unscrew the front as you did to clean two side of it, and use a spanner wrench to unscrew the back from film chamber and clean that too. Of coz if some haze formed between the elements then yeah it's a tough job, otherwise it is fairly easy to clean.
Seems that there is light leaks in your bellow which may also affect the contrast a bit.
As for the rangefinder, a tiny screw near the focusing knob can be unscrewed, exposing a hole which leads to the horizontal rangefinder adjustment bit, use a flathead to adjust.
As for the vertical one, you'll have to unscrew the coldshoe which is a bit tricky but not impossible.
It's a fun project if you really intend to improve it.
@@randallstewart175 Update: It now seems that Olympus sold lenses to a number of camera makers in the 1950-60s, and they used lens coating which proved to be crap. I'm not claiming that Mamiya made lenses were better, but the coatings were better. The lenses were Tessar, 4-element copies. There is not a dime's worth of difference between any of them. (Unless you consider the Rokkor taking lens in the Autocord TLR. In that Lens, Minolta found a sweet spot that even Zeiss never matched in its Tessars.)
@@rickyleung2576 For some reason, those Oly lenses defy cleaning. Their problem is probably not a matter of dirty/hazy or clean, but hazing of the lens coating material itself. There is absolutely nothing about a mint Mamiya 6 folder which would make it worth having the lens disassembled and recoated to correct that problem. If that's your problem, its to the display shelf or to the bin.
His Mamiya 6 folder was made in a variety of models and variations of features from 1947 into the later 1950s, so it is older in fact and older in terms of what Mamiya was doing as a camera maker than the 1960s he suggested. Mamiya was into building lower cost cameras for sale by other companies under their own name. They built a few cameras of average quality under their own name as well. They were not in the business of trying to build top quality industry leaders like its Mamiya 6 from the 1980s. In the early 80s I hunted for a 6x6 120 film folder. I looked into the Zeiss Super Ikonta B for a while, but it is too heavy, fussy, and optically just average at best. I settled on a Mamiya 6, and like here, was less than happy because of excessive lens flare, bad coatings, whatever, just like here. I replaced that camera with another Mamiya 6 in like-new condition. I've never really examined that camera, because I shortly thereafter acquired a Fuji GS645, which after a new bellows, proved to be a marvelous camera of the folder type. (Until he placed them side by side, I never realized how small the modern Mamiya 6 is - surprised.)
Thanks for the history. It definitely is no comparison in actual image quality between the six folding and the modern 6MF, but it is fun to put them together. I do still love the experience of using the old one. They're just fun to use. and it is really interesting to actually have them together.
@@JTobiason I've been lusting after the more modern mamiya 6 ever since I saw your video. As a student at the moment it's out of my budget but as soon as I have a proper job I'll be getting one. I got the folding version after I saw your video as well 😂 haven't fully worked out how to load it properly yet though so I don't get a full 12 shots per roll
Oh no! I'm sorry you're having troubles loading. I will try to make a short or a video specifically explaining that. It's a little funky, but once you get it, it's pretty easy (especially if you have the Automat version).
In the meantime, I think Ed Pavez did an OK job explaining loading:
th-cam.com/video/v9YT3MeRZrM/w-d-xo.html
A bad boyfriend that I keep getting sucked back into ! Very bad choice of words, to put it mildly !
Hmmm... Made in the 50s, not 60s. The haze on your lens is killing sharpness and causing flare. I suggest you clean the lenses, pick up a lens hood, and learn how to adjust the rangefinder (on you tube), and I think you will have much better results. The camera sold for the equivalent of $1400 back in the day, but all of these old lenses need a shade to manage flare, which is why you see them so often when sold with a case with a little lens hood case attached.
I get the "use a lens hood" suggestion all the time, but I honestly think that would be a major annoyance with this camera unless it was a folding one or something. To have to put it on/take off every time I open close the camera is kinda a deal breaker. One of the best things about this little thing is it's pocketability. That is totally my personal use case and opinion. But I love it because it's so easy to open/shoot/go.
@@JTobiason As long as the sun is not in the image, you can use your hand (or your friend) to shade the surface of the lens. With large format, we use the darkslide (which is what Ansel Adams did for his landscapes). Also, I saw someone mention you have pinholes in your bellows? If that is the case, that needs to be fixed, as each hole would act as a tiny aperture (like a pinhole camera) and form a secondary image. Probably the greatest single advance in photo technology between the 50s and the 80s was the invention of lens coatings that reduce or eliminate flare.