just to clarify for others he did mention this is a blended PC and not 100% PC so it has some of the benefits of PC(no where need the heat tolerance and strength of pure PC, but pretty damn good none the less) and less of its notorious side effects, true 100% PC will not print well at all for even smaller parts on an open printer, I print almost exclusively PC, Nylon, PC-CF or PA-CF, these all love to warp, I print my PC at 300c nozzle/110c on the bed, even then it can warp but the benefit of pure PC are what i want and need, it has one of the best heat tolerances of most common filaments that aren't PEI/PEEK and dont cost and arm an a leg, also most high temp filaments require hotend temps, bed and chamber temps that 99% of consumer printers absolutely cant handle. However it is nice to use these blends when you can because of this exact reason you can use them with printers like these open A1 minis and Ender 3's.
Yes and I would add that I have only seen good success with mixed pc prints on open printers with prints under 12-24 hours. Because they do tend warp off the plate eventually. The p1s has no issue staying stuck to the bed with the enclosure though.
1. Isn't nylon more heat tolerant than PC 2. What brand of the pure PC you use? 3. Nowadays most people print blended PC, the most popular polymaker. Pure PC almost even not sold.
I had constant jamming problems with PETG with cardboard spools on my A1 mini, until I installed a spool adapter to match the ID of the spool. Never had a single problem after that.
Your filament is wet. If you're not using an AMS, then use something like Creality's dryer. I've the same printer and using that drier. I print PETG all day with it. I've tried it without, it won't print nice. The surface finish absolutely says wet filament.
Honestly, that print quality looks pretty rough. With PC you'd be better off running the spool in a dry box or filament dryer and printing it on a P1S.
It was not as much about moisture as it was the tuning the filament. After more tuning it was just running it to hot on the A1 mini. I matched the settings best i saw from the generic PC filament settings on p1s to a custom pc setting for a1 mini. a1 printed slower and the added heat boiled the filament. so this is what boiled filament looks like to my best knowledge. the deminions are good, and its smooth its just full of popped little air bubble creators. I dont plan to run much or any pc on open printers i was just testing if running pc though a clogged nozzle by petg if it would clear it enough to print petg or pla again. It failed and did not work
just to clarify for others he did mention this is a blended PC and not 100% PC so it has some of the benefits of PC(no where need the heat tolerance and strength of pure PC, but pretty damn good none the less) and less of its notorious side effects, true 100% PC will not print well at all for even smaller parts on an open printer, I print almost exclusively PC, Nylon, PC-CF or PA-CF, these all love to warp, I print my PC at 300c nozzle/110c on the bed, even then it can warp but the benefit of pure PC are what i want and need, it has one of the best heat tolerances of most common filaments that aren't PEI/PEEK and dont cost and arm an a leg, also most high temp filaments require hotend temps, bed and chamber temps that 99% of consumer printers absolutely cant handle. However it is nice to use these blends when you can because of this exact reason you can use them with printers like these open A1 minis and Ender 3's.
Yes and I would add that I have only seen good success with mixed pc prints on open printers with prints under 12-24 hours. Because they do tend warp off the plate eventually.
The p1s has no issue staying stuck to the bed with the enclosure though.
1. Isn't nylon more heat tolerant than PC
2. What brand of the pure PC you use?
3. Nowadays most people print blended PC, the most popular polymaker. Pure PC almost even not sold.
Looks rough, Run @ 300c with a dry box or something to dry off the filament
I had constant jamming problems with PETG with cardboard spools on my A1 mini, until I installed a spool adapter to match the ID of the spool. Never had a single problem after that.
Your filament is wet. If you're not using an AMS, then use something like Creality's dryer. I've the same printer and using that drier. I print PETG all day with it. I've tried it without, it won't print nice. The surface finish absolutely says wet filament.
Honestly, that print quality looks pretty rough. With PC you'd be better off running the spool in a dry box or filament dryer and printing it on a P1S.
It was not as much about moisture as it was the tuning the filament. After more tuning it was just running it to hot on the A1 mini. I matched the settings best i saw from the generic PC filament settings on p1s to a custom pc setting for a1 mini.
a1 printed slower and the added heat boiled the filament. so this is what boiled filament looks like to my best knowledge. the deminions are good, and its smooth its just full of popped little air bubble creators.
I dont plan to run much or any pc on open printers i was just testing if running pc though a clogged nozzle by petg if it would clear it enough to print petg or pla again.
It failed and did not work
So if I have an a1 and plan to print PC, should I still get the x1? On my way to microcenter rn
those prints are really bad a1 bed cannot go over 80