Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. With us.i have same model.but I don't know how to stop the needle from running while I am winding the bobbin. can you please show me once again how to stop the needle from running while winding thread in the bobbin. Thank you so much once again.
Just hold the needle bar still while running the bobbin winder. Be careful of the needle for sure. If it won’t stop going up and down, the clutch assembly needs oiled. I have a video that addresses that issue. 😎👍🏼
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you so much.for your quick response.. I will search for the video ,I think it will be more beneficial to me. Once again.thank you ,I really appreciate your help.
Just scored one of these for $25. Previous owners stated that it needed new belts because it wasn’t turning. The clutch was disengaged🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️. Now time to give it a good cleaning, oiling and gear grease. Thank you for the video 👍
Thanks for the great information in the video. I just bought a Kenmore 10 at my local thrift store for $8.50. I was seriously looking at a Singer MX231 on Amazon for $147 as my first sewing machine. I saw the Kenmore for $8.50 and plugged it in to checked it out at the store and everything seemed fine so I decided to take a gamble. I think I just got a much better machine and saved myself $138.50. :D The carrying case is super dirty and smells pretty bad but the machine inside is spotless. I will rub down the plastic case with some rubbing alcohol to clean it and hopefully get rid of the old plastic smell. You just got a new subscriber. Can't wait to watch more of your videos. :D
Thanks for your thorough videos! Just an encouragement to everyone - I just got this machine for $4.99 online thrift! It just arrived and I am SEW Excited!! Seems to be in great shape. Thanks Randy!
My machine is nearly identical, same model. Do you have an oil yune up for tgis machine, including the clutch? My feeders feel real wishy washy. Si will clean and oil like you showed on a simpler model. I want to be sure im oiling all the right spots. Also my clutch is a pain to turn
The internal workings are all basically the same on these Kenmores. Anything that slides, swings, or pivots gets a couple drops of oil. I have a three part video set that pretty well covers them all.
If the underneath stitch looks like small loops with a straight line, it’s because the bobbin tension is too tight and the top thread is too loose. That is a common imbalance that will cause the stitch to fall apart. If the straight line and loops are on top, it means that the top is too tight and the bottom is too loose.
Online at sewing parts online.com and Amazon, etc. Just do a search for a low shank zig zag foot. It will also fit Singer, Janome, Necchi, Brother, and others.
Make sure your stitch length is on 10 stitches per inch. Set your stitch width to Zero. Be sure the pattern selector is on straight stitch. Be sure to press down on your pressure button on the top left. Step on the gas and go. If something weird is going on, let me know and be kinda specific. I’ll be glad to help.
Your stitch width dial needs to be on”0” for the straight stitch to be working. You can put your stitch length dial around”3” to get ten stitches per inch, which is where most garments are made. Make sure your stitch selector is on the correct stitch and your buttonhole mode is not engaged.
@@rum1105 the L and S function is for fine tuning your stretch stitches. Long or short. For a regular straight stitch, put the orange dot on top by turning the dial around.
Hi Randy just pick up this machine today and cleaning it. See not much grease on the gear, what's the best grease to used and oil. You are of great help. Much blessings
Just use sewing machine oil. You can buy it online or Walmart or the fabric store. Nothing fancy. It will just say “sewing machine oil” on the bottle. For gear grease, use Vaseline petroleum jelly.
Give it some oil in all the proper places and you’ll be ready to go. Flat side of the needle facing to the rear and don’t use an oversized thread. You can sew heavy fabrics for sure. Put your tension dial on 4 and leave it there forever. Have fun!
Not a stupid question at all. I didn’t know either until someone showed me. Now, I get to show you. Right above the right hand dial area there is a small dial next to the words “stitch width”. Turn it to “0” for a straight stitch.
I have 3 Kenmores. 158-1430, 158-1802; both which are flatbed. The other is a 158-1941 free arm machine. All 3 are absolutely superb. Smooth, strong, and quiet. You are so right in recommending them.
I inherited my grandma's. It's so nice to be able to use something of hers. It was working great then all of a sudden it started skipping stitches especially zigzag which is what I use it for most. I'm hoping to find a repair shop to take a lot at it because I'm not ready to give up on it.
Skipping stitches could be as simple as a bent or blunt needle. If you are sewing on synthetic fabrics or high thread count fabrics, there is a specially designed needle that can help also. Singer model 2045 or a Schmetz needle that is for stretch fabric. Get either in a size 14 and be sure to install the needle properly with the flat side facing to the back. Worth a try and might save you some money.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thanks! I did get the Schmetz needles and I snapped 4 of the 5. Not exactly sure why that is happening all of a sudden either. It hasn't been serviced in years so I'm sure it could probably use it. I'm using bullet fabric and dbp. Occasionally sewing zippers into the bullet.
@@allisonb8012 here’s a quick check to see if your machine is misaligned. Without any thread or fabric on the machine, raise the presser foot and install a new needle with the flat side facing to the back. Turn the hand wheel towards you a couple times while watching closely as the needle enters and exits the needle plate opening. Verify that the needle is centered in the needle plate opening and is not striking any parts as it moves up and down. If everything checks out, the machine is not out of adjustment. If the needle deflects while you are sewing and strikes any of the machine parts, it’s usually because the needle is moving around while it’s in the fabric. When the needle is in the fabric, it should only move up and down. If it moves rearward, it could be because the weight of the fabric is pulling on the needle, or the operator is helping the fabric movement by pulling it through. Be a guider- not a puller, is what I tell my customers who are experiencing needle breakage. Sew with one hand to the left of the fabric and needle, and the other on the right side of the fabric and needle. If you hold the fabric behind the needle and “help” it move, you will break many needles.
Hi Randy, I can’t figure out how to get a straight stitch with this machine. I’ve tried different settings, but I only get zigzag patterns. At this point I’m a bit frustrated. What am I doing wrong? The machine was a gift that hasn’t been used in several years. I’ve cleaning and dusted.
Not all models have drop feed. Release the pressure on your presser foot using the release button on the top left of the machine. Put your stitch length on zero. It also helps immensely to have a “hopping foot “. Low shank of course.
@@jeanniescrochetcreations4978 a hopping foot is indeed used on a long arm quilting machine. It has also been in use on household type machines for as long as I’ve been in the business. (48 years). Do an online search and you’ll find one for your machine.
Hey Randy. Thank you for posting your videos. They are very helpful. I was wondering if you have ever had to deal with the foot pressure bar being stuck?
I’ve dealt with that issue many times. If it’s stuck in the up position, use a penetrating oil top to bottom. After it’s saturated sufficiently, see if it will begin to move by gently tapping on the mechanism with a light object that’s not a hammer. If it moves at all, keep working it until it moves through its entire range of movement. If it’s stuck in the down position, use the penetrating oil as previously mentioned. I start by lifting under the presser foot with a small screwdriver to get the bar to budge upward. If it moves up at all, tap it back down. Continue that process until it moves freely.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I just did what you said. Totally worked! Thank you so much. It was just a matter of working it out with some leverage after penetrating oil.
I have this model of machine. It has been mine since the 80s. I still have the manual bit we went through a hurricane and my home is uninhabitable so we packed everything up and I can’t get to it. I want to use my machine, but need to clean it. Do you happen to have access to the manual? Thank you.
Got to bug you another time, sorry. What size belts does the Kenmore 10 series 158.12512 take... All I have is the product numbers from the manual. one is 40164 and the other is 45814. But I don't know the measurements. Could you help me out with them? Does it take just a standard sewing bulb? The number on it is 6797.
11 5/8 : 1158 12 1/4 : 1214 Etc Order by length. If yours isn’t broken, it doesn’t need replaced. Just adjust it. Not too tight. Leave 1/4 inch flex. If it’s slipping, make sure it isn’t oily.
Hey Randy, i got this exact model from my grandmother. I love it. One question. When i removed the top to oil it, (followed your 3 part series) i did notice some black plastic parts , maybe the cams? Ever see any of these break? If so, can they be replaced? Thank you
Yours may have some plastic decor parts that are not in stress functions. Haven’t seen any breakage of non torque stressed parts. Of course, anything will break if dropped, pried, or pounded upon. You won’t have any concerns there, I would think.
is the 3-part series still posted? I have this machine but its been sitting in a closet for several years, is was in its original plastic case though. @@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
A friend was recently given a 1970s Kenmore 10 model 385.1249180. When she first got it, the machine seemed to be in working condition: the straight stitch works fine & the needle moves smoothly. However, whenever the reverse button is pressed, the machine gets stuck in reverse even after releasing the button. It looks like there’s a mechanism that sticks when the reverse button is pressed, and it’s affecting the feed dogs, causing the machine to stay in reverse. We first tried to oil the bottom & top of the machine, as suggested by the manual. When that didn’t fix the problem, we used WD-40 (to get rid of any sticky/gummy parts) and then re-oiled the parts that seem to be causing the reverse mechanism and the feed dogs to be stuck in reverse. But this didn’t seem to help. Do you have any suggestions?”
That’s a pretty good little machine but it’s famous for having the malfunction you are experiencing. The reverse cam that’s situated underneath the machine in the center front position is a non metallic cam that slides on a metal rotating shaft. Above it is a spring loaded lever that actuates it when the reverse lever is pushed down. You will see that the assembly has a small return spring held on by a C-Clip and a small washer. That assembly is put together at the factory and white lithium grease is added for lubrication. The white lithium grease turns to a hard glue like cement after a while and is causing your malfunction. When I remedy that problem, I disassemble that area with the grease and clean it and scrape it out. I re-oil it with a light oil and reassembled it. I then cycle it repeatedly until it cooperates. If you are brave enough to take that apart and re-assemble it, good luck. It’s a real challenge the first time.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 We fixed it!!!! From the top of the machine, there are two mechanisms that pop up when we hold the reverse button down. The one on the left was sticking and making it more difficult to move the feed dogs. This caused the machine to be stuck in reverse even when we weren't still holding the reverse button down. We sprayed a lot of isopropyl alcohol (film remover) to remove any old, sticky grease. Then we moved these mechanism up and down several times until it loosened. We added oil to any parts that we used the film remover on, and the machine was working again like new!
I find them online from time to time. Try looking at shopgoodwill.com if you get a chance. I’ve bought some there. Just be prepared for poor packing and shipping practices. You can email them after making your purchase and request proper packing in large cell bubble wrap and NO FOAM PEANUTS. Their success rate with me is about 50%. Sears sold millions of those, so they’re out there. Good luck.
I still haven't been able to find a manual for the Kenmore 10 158.12512. can you help me with a link? Also, I would like to purchase a table extension but I'm not sure what bed measurements they are asking about?
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I found it at the last one! Thank you! But I did find out where to buy parts! I'm wanting an extension table for it and am trying to find a ruler foot that will fit. I keep getting a run-around
Hi Randy, I have the Kenmore ultra stitch 12. I saw one of your videos for that model. The hand wheel of mine is so stiff and can barely turn. What would be causing that?
Could be a piece of thread in the shuttle area. Could be dry bearings. On a sewing machine, if something stops moving, everything stops moving. The trouble is not in your hand wheel most likely. It’s elsewhere.
I have one of these. It needs oiling and a foot pedal. I found it at a thrift store for $15 serial number 158.12520 can’t wait to use it. Whats the amp on the motor? Do you know what year these were made in?
Smart purchase. Order the wiring online and you’re all set. The motor’s amp rating should be on the plaque that’s affixed to the motor. Take the plate off the underside on the right and the motor is right there.
Cool I didn’t know much about this particular machine b/c I couldn’t find anything on it until I saw your video. Mine is the convertible version so it doesn’t have the extension plate on it either. It definitely needs tuned up plus the spool bolts are missing. It needs a little love for sure. I also just scored another Kenmore 158.14002 at another thrift store for $25 and that one runs like a dream beautiful off mint green shinny finish. That one too needs oiling. Sewing is a new hobby I wanna take up.
Shayla Carpenter , you definitely are buying the correct machines. Order the spool pins online and make sure they are the ones with the “fine threads” on the ends that screw in. The other type is coarse threads and they won’t work.
I just found a BRAND NEW Kenmore (never used), ultra stitch 10, w/all the accessories and manual and case for under $30, at the Goodwill!👋
Jackpot. Well done. Oil it up and take off. 😎👍🏼
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
With us.i have same model.but I don't know how to stop the needle from running while I am winding the bobbin.
can you please show me once again how to stop the needle from running while winding thread in the bobbin.
Thank you so much once again.
Just hold the needle bar still while running the bobbin winder. Be careful of the needle for sure.
If it won’t stop going up and down, the clutch assembly needs oiled.
I have a video that addresses that issue. 😎👍🏼
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
Thank you so much.for your quick response..
I will search for the video ,I think it will be more beneficial to me.
Once again.thank you ,I really appreciate your help.
@@shamsqamar9243 👍😎
Just scored one of these for $25. Previous owners stated that it needed new belts because it wasn’t turning. The clutch was disengaged🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️. Now time to give it a good cleaning, oiling and gear grease. Thank you for the video 👍
That’s a great machine for a small price. It should last for multiple generations of happy sewing. 😎👍
Thanks for the great information in the video. I just bought a Kenmore 10 at my local thrift store for $8.50. I was seriously looking at a Singer MX231 on Amazon for $147 as my first sewing machine. I saw the Kenmore for $8.50 and plugged it in to checked it out at the store and everything seemed fine so I decided to take a gamble. I think I just got a much better machine and saved myself $138.50. :D
The carrying case is super dirty and smells pretty bad but the machine inside is spotless. I will rub down the plastic case with some rubbing alcohol to clean it and hopefully get rid of the old plastic smell. You just got a new subscriber. Can't wait to watch more of your videos. :D
Great find. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your thorough videos! Just an encouragement to everyone - I just got this machine for $4.99 online thrift! It just arrived and I am SEW Excited!! Seems to be in great shape. Thanks Randy!
Excellent find. It will deliver years of reliable service. Genius!
My machine is nearly identical, same model. Do you have an oil yune up for tgis machine, including the clutch? My feeders feel real wishy washy. Si will clean and oil like you showed on a simpler model. I want to be sure im oiling all the right spots. Also my clutch is a pain to turn
The internal workings are all basically the same on these Kenmores. Anything that slides, swings, or pivots gets a couple drops of oil.
I have a three part video set that pretty well covers them all.
Why does the underlying stick unravel
If the underneath stitch looks like small loops with a straight line, it’s because the bobbin tension is too tight and the top thread is too loose. That is a common imbalance that will cause the stitch to fall apart.
If the straight line and loops are on top, it means that the top is too tight and the bottom is too loose.
Randy, where can I get a zig zag foot for this machine
Online at sewing parts online.com and Amazon, etc. Just do a search for a low shank zig zag foot. It will also fit Singer, Janome, Necchi, Brother, and others.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you so much☺️
@@cherylfavreau3517 👍🏼you’re welcome
I can't get mine to do a regular straight stitch
Make sure your stitch length is on 10 stitches per inch. Set your stitch width to Zero. Be sure the pattern selector is on straight stitch. Be sure to press down on your pressure button on the top left. Step on the gas and go. If something weird is going on, let me know and be kinda specific. I’ll be glad to help.
How do I put this in a straight stitch
Your stitch width dial needs to be on”0” for the straight stitch to be working. You can put your stitch length dial around”3” to get ten stitches per inch, which is where most garments are made.
Make sure your stitch selector is on the correct stitch and your buttonhole mode is not engaged.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 do I put it in “ L or S”….. thank you very much… I had this machine for years and never knew how to use it. Thank you
@@rum1105 the L and S function is
for fine tuning your stretch stitches. Long or short. For a regular straight stitch, put the orange dot on top by turning the dial around.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you so much
@@rum1105 you’re welcome.
Hi Randy just pick up this machine today and cleaning it. See not much grease on the gear, what's the best grease to used and oil. You are of great help. Much blessings
Just use sewing machine oil. You can buy it online or Walmart or the fabric store. Nothing fancy. It will just say “sewing machine oil” on the bottle.
For gear grease, use Vaseline petroleum jelly.
I’m trying to save the video but you have it set for kids so it can’t be saved would you turn that off in your setting so people can save it ?
I just checked and it says “public”.
Maybe it’s a different one that I have set incorrectly.
Let me know and I’ll gladly change the setting. 😎👍🏼
Hi! I just bought one for $20, but I don’t know the first thing about sewing...this should be fun!
Give it some oil in all the proper places and you’ll be ready to go. Flat side of the needle facing to the rear and don’t use an oversized thread. You can sew heavy fabrics for sure. Put your tension dial on 4 and leave it there forever. Have fun!
Can u please show how to fund the bobbin
I have other videos on winding the bobbin and getting started. If you can’t find it, let me know and I’ll make another one specific to this machine.
I know this might be a little stupid, but how do I set it to straight stitch. All it does for me is the 4 orange stitches
My mom gave it to me, it was her friends that's passed away. I'm just getting into sewing so I'm sorry I don't have a lot of knowledge
Not a stupid question at all. I didn’t know either until someone showed me. Now, I get to show you. Right above the right hand dial area there is a small dial next to the words “stitch width”. Turn it to “0” for a straight stitch.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you so much!
@@Anamaria_Grab you’re quite welcome.
I have 3 Kenmores. 158-1430, 158-1802; both which are flatbed. The other is a 158-1941 free arm machine. All 3 are absolutely superb. Smooth, strong, and quiet. You are so right in recommending them.
Do you know of any sources for touch up paint?
I inherited my grandma's. It's so nice to be able to use something of hers. It was working great then all of a sudden it started skipping stitches especially zigzag which is what I use it for most. I'm hoping to find a repair shop to take a lot at it because I'm not ready to give up on it.
Skipping stitches could be as simple as a bent or blunt needle. If you are sewing on synthetic fabrics or high thread count fabrics, there is a specially designed needle that can help also. Singer model 2045 or a Schmetz needle that is for stretch fabric. Get either in a size 14 and be sure to install the needle properly with the flat side facing to the back. Worth a try and might save you some money.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thanks! I did get the Schmetz needles and I snapped 4 of the 5. Not exactly sure why that is happening all of a sudden either. It hasn't been serviced in years so I'm sure it could probably use it. I'm using bullet fabric and dbp. Occasionally sewing zippers into the bullet.
@@allisonb8012 use a heavier needle if they are breaking. If your breaking 14’s step up the size to a 16 or 18.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I'm ordering them now! Thank you so much!
@@allisonb8012 here’s a quick check to see if your machine is misaligned. Without any thread or fabric on the machine, raise the presser foot and install a new needle with the flat side facing to the back. Turn the hand wheel towards you a couple times while watching closely as the needle enters and exits the needle plate opening. Verify that the needle is centered in the needle plate opening and is not striking any parts as it moves up and down. If everything checks out, the machine is not out of adjustment. If the needle deflects while you are sewing and strikes any of the machine parts, it’s usually because the needle is moving around while it’s in the fabric. When the needle is in the fabric, it should only move up and down. If it moves rearward, it could be because the weight of the fabric is pulling on the needle, or the operator is helping the fabric movement by pulling it through. Be a guider- not a puller, is what I tell my customers who are experiencing needle breakage. Sew with one hand to the left of the fabric and needle, and the other on the right side of the fabric and needle. If you hold the fabric behind the needle and “help” it move, you will break many needles.
I have this machine and love it, but I don't know how to do a gathering stitch with it. Can you do a video showing me how to gather with it please?
Hi Randy, I can’t figure out how to get a straight stitch with this machine. I’ve tried different settings, but I only get zigzag patterns. At this point I’m a bit frustrated. What am I doing wrong?
The machine was a gift that hasn’t been used in several years. I’ve cleaning and dusted.
There is a dial that controls your stitch width. It usually is numbered 0 to 4 or 5. Put it on zero. That means no width, which means straight stitch.
Thank you Randy!
@@ccg9355 you’re welcome.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you so much I was going crazy such common sense which I have none thank you very much
@@colleensandy3219 you’re welcome
How do you drop the feed dogs so you can do free motion quilting?
Not all models have drop feed. Release the pressure on your presser foot using the release button on the top left of the machine. Put your stitch length on zero. It also helps immensely to have a “hopping foot “. Low shank of course.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I have a Kenmore 10 model series 158.12512. I do have a 1/4 inch low shank ruler foot
@@jeanniescrochetcreations4978 for free motion, you’ll want the hopping foot for sure.
Is a hopping foot the same as a ruler foot? I thought a hopping foot was used on a long arm?
@@jeanniescrochetcreations4978 a hopping foot is indeed used on a long arm quilting machine. It has also been in use on household type machines for as long as I’ve been in the business. (48 years). Do an online search and you’ll find one for your machine.
Hey Randy. Thank you for posting your videos. They are very helpful. I was wondering if you have ever had to deal with the foot pressure bar being stuck?
I’ve dealt with that issue many times. If it’s stuck in the up position, use a penetrating oil top to bottom. After it’s saturated sufficiently, see if it will begin to move by gently tapping on the mechanism with a light object that’s not a hammer. If it moves at all, keep working it until it moves through its entire range of movement.
If it’s stuck in the down position, use the penetrating oil as previously mentioned. I start by lifting under the presser foot with a small screwdriver to get the bar to budge upward. If it moves up at all, tap it back down. Continue that process until it moves freely.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I just did what you said. Totally worked! Thank you so much. It was just a matter of working it out with some leverage after penetrating oil.
@@administrator911 excellent. Glad it worked.
I have this model of machine. It has been mine since the 80s. I still have the manual bit we went through a hurricane and my home is uninhabitable so we packed everything up and I can’t get to it. I want to use my machine, but need to clean it. Do you happen to have access to the manual? Thank you.
They are available online. Do a search for your model number and there will be many providers of owners manuals.
Got to bug you another time, sorry. What size belts does the Kenmore 10 series 158.12512 take... All I have is the product numbers from the manual. one is 40164 and the other is 45814. But I don't know the measurements. Could you help me out with them? Does it take just a standard sewing bulb? The number on it is 6797.
If your belt is broken, measure it and order it by length. If the belt is 13 3/8 in length, it will be a 1338.If it is 115/8
Etc. The bulb is a bayonet base push and twist. Very common.
11 5/8 : 1158
12 1/4 : 1214
Etc
Order by length.
If yours isn’t broken, it doesn’t need replaced. Just adjust it. Not too tight. Leave 1/4 inch flex. If it’s slipping, make sure it isn’t oily.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I wanted to have one on hand in case it breaks. The machine at unused for over a couple years.
By the way, I did a video on replacing the belts in that unit including the belt lengths etc.
Hey Randy, i got this exact model from my grandmother. I love it. One question. When i removed the top to oil it, (followed your 3 part series) i did notice some black plastic parts , maybe the cams?
Ever see any of these break? If so, can they be replaced? Thank you
Yours may have some plastic decor parts that are not in stress functions. Haven’t seen any breakage of non torque stressed parts. Of course, anything will break if dropped, pried, or pounded upon. You won’t have any concerns there, I would think.
is the 3-part series still posted? I have this machine but its been sitting in a closet for several years, is was in its original plastic case though. @@randyyoursewingmachineman9954
A friend was recently given a 1970s Kenmore 10 model 385.1249180. When she first got it, the machine seemed to be in working condition: the straight stitch works fine & the needle moves smoothly. However, whenever the reverse button is pressed, the machine gets stuck in reverse even after releasing the button. It looks like there’s a mechanism that sticks when the reverse button is pressed, and it’s affecting the feed dogs, causing the machine to stay in reverse. We first tried to oil the bottom & top of the machine, as suggested by the manual. When that didn’t fix the problem, we used WD-40 (to get rid of any sticky/gummy parts) and then re-oiled the parts that seem to be causing the reverse mechanism and the feed dogs to be stuck in reverse. But this didn’t seem to help. Do you have any suggestions?”
That’s a pretty good little machine but it’s famous for having the malfunction you are experiencing. The reverse cam that’s situated underneath the machine in the center front position is a non metallic cam that slides on a metal rotating shaft. Above it is a spring loaded lever that actuates it when the reverse lever is pushed down. You will see that the assembly has a small return spring held on by a C-Clip and a small washer. That assembly is put together at the factory and white lithium grease is added for lubrication. The white lithium grease turns to a hard glue like cement after a while and is causing your malfunction. When I remedy that problem, I disassemble that area with the grease and clean it and scrape it out. I re-oil it with a light oil and reassembled it. I then cycle it repeatedly until it cooperates. If you are brave enough to take that apart and re-assemble it, good luck. It’s a real challenge the first time.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you so much! I'll let you know how it goes.
C Ocasio 👍
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 We fixed it!!!! From the top of the machine, there are two mechanisms that pop up when we hold the reverse button down. The one on the left was sticking and making it more difficult to move the feed dogs. This caused the machine to be stuck in reverse even when we weren't still holding the reverse button down. We sprayed a lot of isopropyl alcohol (film remover) to remove any old, sticky grease. Then we moved these mechanism up and down several times until it loosened. We added oil to any parts that we used the film remover on, and the machine was working again like new!
Hi Randy, my mom has the exactly machine, and she’s looking for a flatbed, do you know where can I find it? Thank you!🙏
I find them online from time to time. Try looking at shopgoodwill.com if you get a chance. I’ve bought some there. Just be prepared for poor packing and shipping practices. You can email them after making your purchase and request proper packing in large cell bubble wrap and NO FOAM PEANUTS. Their success rate with me is about 50%. Sears sold millions of those, so they’re out there. Good luck.
Is the Kenmore 10 a low shank or super low shank? Also, what brand and type of needles does it take?
Low shank. Any manufacturer’s 15 class (Singer) needle will work.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 awesome!! Thank you sooo very much with all your help!!
@@jeanniescrochetcreations4978 you’re welcome
I still haven't been able to find a manual for the Kenmore 10 158.12512. can you help me with a link? Also, I would like to purchase a table extension but I'm not sure what bed measurements they are asking about?
Sewingpartsonline.com , Manualslib.com , KENMOREsewingmanuals.com ,
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you very much!!
You’re welcome and good luck.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I found it at the last one! Thank you! But I did find out where to buy parts! I'm wanting an extension table for it and am trying to find a ruler foot that will fit. I keep getting a run-around
Hi Randy, I have the Kenmore ultra stitch 12. I saw one of your videos for that model. The hand wheel of mine is so stiff and can barely turn. What would be causing that?
Could be a piece of thread in the shuttle area. Could be dry bearings. On a sewing machine, if something stops moving, everything stops moving. The trouble is not in your hand wheel most likely. It’s elsewhere.
I have a three part video on servicing your kenmore machine. It might help.
I have one of these. It needs oiling and a foot pedal. I found it at a thrift store for $15 serial number 158.12520 can’t wait to use it. Whats the amp on the motor? Do you know what year these were made in?
Smart purchase. Order the wiring online and you’re all set. The motor’s amp rating should be on the plaque that’s affixed to the motor. Take the plate off the underside on the right and the motor is right there.
Made in the seventies
Cool I didn’t know much about this particular machine b/c I couldn’t find anything on it until I saw your video. Mine is the convertible version so it doesn’t have the extension plate on it either. It definitely needs tuned up plus the spool bolts are missing. It needs a little love for sure. I also just scored another Kenmore 158.14002 at another thrift store for $25 and that one runs like a dream beautiful off mint green shinny finish. That one too needs oiling. Sewing is a new hobby I wanna take up.
Shayla Carpenter , you definitely are buying the correct machines. Order the spool pins online and make sure they are the ones with the “fine threads” on the ends that screw in. The other type is coarse threads and they won’t work.
So it turns out that my machine was made in Taiwan is that a bad thing?