You’re welcome and it’s my pleasure. I enjoy working on the good machines, and try to be patient with the others. It’s a process. Thanks for watching.👍😎
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. I have two Kenmores, one for over 40 years. I've just cleaned and oiled it in what I thought were all the logical places, but never knew to oil the motor or look for a place to grease the gears. Now I have a job ahead of me that will probably save their lives. So much to learn about these classic machines. With your help, we can rescue a few so they may continue to be by our side ready to do their job.
You betcha! Be careful not to over oil the motor for sure. A couple of drops at each end of the armature is usually sufficient. If you take the gearbox cover off and the gasket has been keeping the grease pliable, you’re all set there also. If the grease has hardened, remove it and pack it back with good old Vaseline petroleum jelly. Make sure the gasket is securely sealed.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Oh my gosh! I just greased it and oiled around the belt but careful not to get any oil on it. Randy, it runs like it did when it was new over 40 years ago. Can't thank you enough. You saved this Oldie but Goody !
Oh cool! My folks have an old Kenmore 158.1525 that they purchased in 1980. I didn’t think about oiling the motor or the idler pulley. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for this series. The pacing and explanations were perfect for a beginner. I'm glad you said to just oil the gear below the cams as another video said to add grease to it, but the manual just said oil.
You’re welcome. All the methods that I use have been effective for me, all these many years. (50) The service centers that I worked in showed me how the manufacturers recommended servicing the various machines. They were right, most of the time.
Thank you Randy for this series. I was given a Sears Kenmore and it was squeaky and barely moved. I bought a new belt and after watching the video and oiling all the moving things and troubleshooting by looking and listening the machine now sews quietly and flawlessly. You are such a help!
Thank you Randy! I just picked up a mini-Kenny 158-1030 and am so excited that I was able to see your videos . The machine is frozen ---- no idea how long it's been sitting😏. I oiled her earlier today, so now that I've seen your 3-part video I'm ready to tackle this seized vintage gem!!
This is totally right! I have the Kenmore: 158 17501 series with the cams. It's about 26 years old and in excellent condition. And with your videos I will fine tune the oiling. My copy of instructions were too dark and could'nt see where the arrows pointed to. I instinctively oiled the shuttle race and whiped out the dark grease or powder you referred to as buildup. To remove the top was tricky so when the technician told me it was tricky I found out why. There are springs underneath cover and you must slide cover from left to right to engage the springs for the top to go in the machine.😅. It was a process and I stayed with it and it worked. That might help somebody!
Thank you for answering about my Kenmore sewing machine! Silly me I didn’t have setting on b which moves needle position over to zigzag. Don’t know what I was thinking! Needle was hitting plate, I fear I was trying too hard , not relaxed enough to sew. Costly but okay now, thank you for responding 👍
Hi Randy. I saw your comment about removing the upper housing by unscrewing two screws, one on left and one on right. I heard you mention this in one of your videos too. My 158.19131 does not have screws. You're supposed to pop it open with a screwdriver, according to the manual. But the manual schematics are hard to comprehend, and I feared damaging something so didn't try that method. Regardless, thought you'd like to know: This morning I used my fingers to try and lift the housing. It worked. But it worked too well. The housing broke free and went flying over the top of the machine. Made an awful clatter but there's no damage. MANY THANKS for your helpful and informative videos.
I've watched your three videos on how to oil a 158. Thanks for the help. But I still haven't seen how you open the top housing to oil up there--you begin all three videos with the housing already open. Bought my first 158.19131 a few days ago. Would sure like to know how to access the upper portion of the machine.
At least annually. If you sew a lot, maybe sooner. Most importantly, add a drop of oil to your race assembly after two bobbins have been used up. Remove the bobbin case and put your needle in its highest position. Drop the oil just inside the retainer ring and onto the race itself.
I have a 158.1595281 and the idler pulley almost completely froze up. Upon taking it apart, I was surprised to see that there are absolutely no bearings in it. It doesn't seem especially worn, though. I don't know if someone previously oiled it with something like 3 in 1 and it turned into varnish, or if it was never oiled and that still happened. I'm also surprised not to find anything online, about someone else having the same problem or how they solved it. I sprayed wd40 in the hole and on the axle, and rubbed it down with a q-tip, and wiped it off as well as I can with a paper towel, and then I'm going to coat the axle in sewing machine oil and replace it.
That should work. I remove the axle and shine and polish it with a fine steel wool or crocus cloth. Then I oil it with sewing machine oil and reassemble it. As long as it spins freely on a fine layer of oil, it will be fine.
Hi, just discovered your channel. I own a 158 1802. I clean and oil regularly according to the manual. I ran across a website that went into detail of how the motor should be oiled. I've had my machine for 27 years (thrift store find) and have not had any problems out of it. I'd really like to know if I should oil the motor. It runs like a dream. Have never taken it in for service, not needed. Thank you for your videos.
If any oil is added, it would be sparingly at each end of the armature shaft. Often times you’ll see felt that is just visible inside the housing of the motor, at the ends of the armature shaft. That felt is a oil reservoir and is where the drops of oil is added. If you can, list that website and I will check it out. There are useful sites out on the webs that can help keep our machines running. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the videos! Helped bring my grandmas kenmore back to life. The grease behind the metal gasket where the gears are was really gross, black and orange and stinky. Is it possible that the grease and oil that was used before went rancid? The whole machine stinks up my apartment when in use, which lead me to cleaning it in the first place. Any tips to get it to smell better? Could I put a drop of lemon oil in the sewing machine oil?
@@killersofa oil wont mix with the fragrance. The smell is maybe from the surface of the machine. I have never changed gear box grease in 50 years. It can sometimes get stiff if the seal is broken. Otherwise it’s fine. Clean the surface of the machine with Windex it works great for me.
Thank you for this video series! I have this machine and the series was so helpful. I do have a question if you see this, how often should I oil it to keep it working well?
@@laditidateginadiade7357 semi annual service is good. If you sew a lot, maybe more. The most important place to keep oiled is your shuttle hook area. When you have your bobbin case out, after you’ve used two full bobbins, add a drop of oil to the shuttle race.
Randy, Thank for these videos! May God Bless you for your service to us! I have a 158.13180 and oiled everything you pointed out, even stopping videos to get each place. Prior to oiling my zigzag knob has been a bear to turn, while the stitch length knob turns like a breeze. I took the machine out of the cabinet, turned it upside down on my lap and oiled the backside of the knob, any moving areas nearby, etc. It is still very hard to turn. (Prior to you oiling lessons, the zigzag stitch, itself, wouldn't work.) Now it's working, though skipping stitches. The zigzag knob is the only thing that hasn't changed, almost needing 2 hands to turn. Any ideas? Thank you!
Be patient and work it back and forth after spraying some penetrating oil into the affected area. You have to work the oil into the bearing. It takes a little time but it will work.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 What brand penetrating oil do you use? We'd like to get a good one. WD40 comes up in search but another youtuber says it's a "big no no" and last resort.
@@Irish-Triplet “liquid wrench” has worked for a long time. There are many other brands that will probably do well also. Go to the hardware store or Home Depot and they will have several to choose from.
Thank you for your videos, Randy. I have a Kenmore Convertible, Model 1680 that I can't figure out how to get the bottom off to oil. Seems like it has weird screw thingies that I can't use a standard screw driver on. Can you help, please?
I’m only familiar with them having either a standard slotted screw or a Phillips #2 screw. If there’s something other than that, I’m not sure what it is.
I have a 158.1913 and have owned it since we brought it home from Sears in 1977. I love it! However it is starting to jam up. I found your oiling demos which definitely helped but my husband was not able to remove the base in order to oil underneath. Do you have a demo on how to remove the coverings?
There are quite a number of fasteners holding that bottom cover on. It’s just a matter of finding them and removing them. No secrets or tips to help you unfortunately, you just have to be diligent and locate them. I believe there are at least seven if I’m not mistaken.
Great video, thanks! I was wondering if you also oil the handwheel shaft for a 158.1941? It doesn't have a screw on the outside of the handwheel like this model does.
Bravo! Great job! I really appreciate you showing me how to service lube my parents 158. 15251. It looks exactly the same as yours here. I have the original purchase receipt when Dad bought it. I spent a weekend of evenings following your direction on the series. It sounds like brand new now, just like it looks. Very smooth and quiet. I hit the front shaft with a couple drops of sewing machine oil every other session. The underside where the gear box is, I pushed the grease back into the gear because it was clear as factory new. Question, I have half a dozen greases, lithium, etc and everything for lighter lube including dry lubes. Is there any contact point besides that gear that can use a dab of grease rather than fine lightweight seeing machine oil?
Oil everything other than the gear box with a light sewing machine oil or equivalent. I’m glad that you have that machine and it’s now in top shape. I appreciate your comments and thanks for watching.
Randy , Does the 158.17850 machine only go at one speed when sewing? The bobbin winder goes very fast which is perfect. I was just given this machine and I followed all of your oiling video except taking off the bottom and the handwheel. I will not touch those areas. Thank you for all your time!! Please advise, Bev
It should go through a variable range as more pressure is applied to the foot control. If the bobbin winds at high speed then you know your motor and electrical is good, as well as belt tension. If the machine seems sluggish, there’s a dry bearing that needs a couple drops of oil. I would suggest that it’s the bearing that’s behind your shuttle driver assembly. Tilt the machine back and drop some oil drops where the shuttle driver enters the casting and rotates.
Thanks for your 3 part kenmore oiling videos. I followed your directions on my 158.17550 and it has been running pretty well, sounds nice and happy. Thanks so much. I'm still having an issue with the machine not feeding the fabric through. I have to manually pull or nudge the fabric,, almost like the feed dog is not operating. The feed dog lever is at "U" and I can see it moving the way it should. My stitch length is set for the longest possible, but still the stitches are small, determined by how much I pull. Moving parts connected to the feed dog have been oiled several times. Any videos on this issue?
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I have the pressure knob all the way down; I don't know how to check that it is screwed down. It feels a little stiff so it will sit overnight with oil, even though it was oiled twice. I'd love to see that video. What is it called? Thanks for the oil bottle recommendation; already ordered and received one. My husband hated the previous one and did his share of complaining about it.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks for the new video. Very clear; however my other Sewing Machine Man (husband) just finally found the issue and fixed it with super penetrating oil. It was the mechanism attached to the stitch length knob. This machine had been hibernating in a shed for at least a decade before I adopted it and it has required a lot of oil, patience, and trial and error, just like you said. Husband said he would rather not be #1 Sewing Machine Man but he will keep doing dishes. So we're all good! Do you ever advise on Necchis?
@@joanasheville2981 I can do a Necchi video. Which one do you have? You’re in good shape with a hubby that can fix sewing machines and helps with the dishes. I know that all too well at times.
Wish you'd shown how to remove the bottom. I've taken out the 5 screws, but it's still hanging up at a little nub over on the left near the bobbin area. I'm afraid that little nub is going to break off, and can't figure out how to remove the bottom plate because of that. Mine is a 158.15251. (All 158s are not alike!)
True. They are sometimes quite different in their covers and components. Look on the left side of the bottom and make sure the small end cover is removed. Sometimes it has a single screw in the center. Taking that bottom cover off becomes an exercise in finesse so you wiggle it and maneuver it carefully so the little tab doesn’t break.
Hi Randy! Great video. I just got a similar machine (Kenmore 1040). It sat unused for a few years apparently. The lower belt is slipping and not engaging. Do you have any recommendation for parts I can tighten? Is it worth replacing? The belt has thread through the middle. When I opened the side panel for the first time, some of that thread was separating from the rubber teeth. Has the belt reached the end of its life?
@@ashleyhoward8302 the screw is a left turn to loosen. The bolt at the motor will allow you to tighten the belt. The belts are available online. Sewingpartsonline.com or Amazon will have them.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you!! Looking closer at my lower belt, it definitely needs replaced. It has some degradation that I think is causing the slipping. Do you happen to know what length and style of belt is correct for this machine?
@@ashleyhoward8302 just search using your Kenmore model and belts for sale: Kenmore 158.1040 belts for sale. All the sellers will appear. To be sure the belt is correct, measure the length (circumference). Some belts are identified by the numeric equivalent of their length, such as: 12 3/4 = 1234 11 1/2. = 1112 14 3/4 = 1434 Etc.
Randy I have a Kenmore 158.16900. I really want to open the gear box and take a look at the old grease. Maybe add new or just redistribute the old stuff does the old grease wear out? Also are todays grease’s better than the grease of years ago. And Randy what size are the screws that go thru the bottom of the case plate that holds the sewing machine while ypu transport/carry the machine? Thanks Mike
Sure. Take the cover stews loos and probe underneath with a small thin screwdriver. If the grease is still pliable and not hardened, you’re all set. It’s rare to find the grease hardened but if it is, take out the hard stuff and put new grease in. Anything from wheel bearing grease to Vaseline petroleum jelly will be fine. Not a high speed area and no high temps are created.
If you are cleaning and oiling her sewing machine, welcome to my world. My wife’s machine gets what I call “Perpetual Care”. When she says it’s due for some TLC, I’m on it. It’s the least I can do for her. After all, she’s put up with me for 43 years. I’m definitely getting the better end of the deal. Merry Christmas.
I can't thank you enough for these videos! You've saved me so much time, effort, and frustration. But after oiling my machine I'm still having zig zag probs. Tried to find your Facebook group to share a video but I've had no luck. Your email address isn't in your "about" info..... help!
@@thereallisamarchbanks oiling and repeatedly working that zig zag mechanism (left and right) while it is in its widest setting, is the way I get it to eventually cooperate. Make sure the machine is set for the zig zag stitch and it’s set on its widest setting. When it swings to the left, leave the needle bar in the left position and push it to the right. If it won’t move, swing it to the right side, and work it to the left. It will usually take many back and forth motions to get it to start responding to the return spring.
hey i have a kenmore, but i dont know what model it is and the lady who we got it from has passed and i dont know how to use it, can you help me. it looks like yours but has different features
Basically all the machine works the same way .Just google it how to thread the machine or how to put the bobbin .Once you thread the machine ,fill the bobbin and put bobbin in place you are good to go .
I made the mistake of getting oil on the belt pully's on the right hand side. Now the shaft is slipping and it wasn't before. How can I fix that? I have some degreaser.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for the response. I found that I did not reassemble the hand wheel correctly but I found your video on how to do it correctly. I appreciate you!
Hi Randy..back again w my 158.75020 (I think that's it). Well I got everything well oiled including the clutch which wouln't move before. Got feed dogs moving front to back but the thread tension lever & the feed dog switch still do not move. My motor is on the outside. I hope I didn't over oil. This had been sitting a long long time. I may have gotten oil on the belt. Do I need to replace belt? Should I remove black gear box cover and oil in there? What with? If I over oiled, should I just let it sit and dry up?? Last ?, do you have to have cams to stitch a straight stitch (I don't think so but would that be why the take up lever for thread isn't moving? Thx so much!
Don’t know if your hand wheel is turning or whether the machine is locked up. I don’t know what a thread tension lever is. The feed dog switch needs to be coaxed gently sometimes by lightly tapping on the underneath mechanism with a plastic handled screwdriver or wooden handled screwdriver. Tap on the left side of the slide mechanism to make it move to the right. Don’t try to muscle anything or you might break it. A little oil on the belt won’t hurt it. Just wipe it off. Leave the black gearbox cover on as that area is packed with grease. No oil goes in there. I’m assuming that the machine is turning freely? No cams necessary for doing a straight stitch.
The handwheel is turning just fine. I meant the thread take up lever. Will try tapping gently underneath the feed dog switch. Just can't figure out why the thread take up doesn't move when I turn the hand wheel.
@@mcrogerr0ck just tap lightly on the feed dog slide mechanism. If your hand wheel is turning, the thread take up lever should be turning also. If the hand wheel is turning, and the clutch is installed properly and tightened down, everything should be moving, including the thread take up lever.
Is it possible to install the clutch in such a way that it tightens and loosens the way it is supposed to but doesn't move the thread take up lever? There was no rubber washer when I took the clutch knob off, just the little circular thingamajig. Thank you for the generosity of your time on this.
Sometimes you have to hold the needle clamp for a few moments, to allow the hand wheel to break free from the main shaft and spin. It also deglazes the contact surface where the hand wheel spins on the shaft.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank-you. Are you going to be able to give me any hints on how to get to the innards on my Kenmore 148.296, made around 1966?
@@twinstar9 one of the many great things about the vintage Kenmores like yours, is their easy access to the inner workings. Usually there are a couple screws on top that, when removed, allow access to the upper mechanisms. On the bottom cover, it’s the same, just with more screws. Remove the screws. Set them aside and don’t lose them. Sometimes the top cover snaps on and off. If there are no screws present, yours is a snap off.
@@twinstar9 if yours has a one piece, cast iron configuration, just access your oiling holes on top and judiciously add drops of oil in the holes. If you have an extendable spout oiler with a narrow metal tube, it’s easier to control the oil flow. For the bottom, tilt it up and oil what you see.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 It's the one piece cast iron but it is not sewing. I therefore don't know how to troubleshoot since I can't see inside. Seems like a terrible waste of my $16 haha. But I really want to get it to work. I only found one other like it online which took 2 1/2 years to sell!
Excellent info. Thank you so much. Very kind of you to share your knowledge on these fantastic machines.
Cheers
Scott 😎
You’re welcome and it’s my pleasure. I enjoy working on the good machines, and try to be patient with the others. It’s a process. Thanks for watching.👍😎
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge. I have two Kenmores, one for over 40 years. I've just cleaned and oiled it in what I thought were all the logical places, but never knew to oil the motor or look for a place to grease the gears. Now I have a job ahead of me that will probably save their lives. So much to learn about these classic machines. With your help, we can rescue a few so they may continue to be by our side ready to do their job.
You betcha! Be careful not to over oil the motor for sure. A couple of drops at each end of the armature is usually sufficient. If you take the gearbox cover off and the gasket has been keeping the grease pliable, you’re all set there also. If the grease has hardened, remove it and pack it back with good old Vaseline petroleum jelly. Make sure the gasket is securely sealed.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Oh my gosh! I just greased it and oiled around the belt but careful not to get any oil on it. Randy, it runs like it did when it was new over 40 years ago. Can't thank you enough. You saved this Oldie but Goody !
Oh cool! My folks have an old Kenmore 158.1525 that they purchased in 1980. I didn’t think about oiling the motor or the idler pulley. Thanks for the video!
Thank you for this series. The pacing and explanations were perfect for a beginner. I'm glad you said to just oil the gear below the cams as another video said to add grease to it, but the manual just said oil.
You’re welcome. All the methods that I use have been effective for me, all these many years. (50) The service centers that I worked in showed me how the manufacturers recommended servicing the various machines. They were right, most of the time.
Thank you Randy for this series. I was given a Sears Kenmore and it was squeaky and barely moved. I bought a new belt and after watching the video and oiling all the moving things and troubleshooting by looking and listening the machine now sews quietly and flawlessly. You are such a help!
You’re welcome. Glad to help.
Thank you Randy! I just picked up a mini-Kenny 158-1030 and am so excited that I was able to see your videos . The machine is frozen ---- no idea how long it's been sitting😏. I oiled her earlier today, so now that I've seen your 3-part video I'm ready to tackle this seized vintage gem!!
Great. Have fun bringing her back to action.
This is totally right! I have the Kenmore: 158 17501 series with the cams. It's about 26 years old and in excellent condition. And with your videos I will fine tune the oiling. My copy of instructions were too dark and could'nt see where the arrows pointed to. I instinctively oiled the shuttle race and whiped out the dark grease or powder you referred to as buildup. To remove the top was tricky so when the technician told me it was tricky I found out why. There are springs underneath cover and you must slide cover from left to right to engage the springs for the top to go in the machine.😅. It was a process and I stayed with it and it worked. That might help somebody!
Thank you for answering about my Kenmore sewing machine! Silly me I didn’t have setting on b which moves needle position over to zigzag. Don’t know what I was thinking! Needle was hitting plate, I fear I was trying too hard , not relaxed enough to sew. Costly but okay now, thank you for responding 👍
You’re welcome 👍😎
Hi Randy. I saw your comment about removing the upper housing by unscrewing two screws, one on left and one on right. I heard you mention this in one of your videos too. My 158.19131 does not have screws. You're supposed to pop it open with a screwdriver, according to the manual. But the manual schematics are hard to comprehend, and I feared damaging something so didn't try that method. Regardless, thought you'd like to know: This morning I used my fingers to try and lift the housing. It worked. But it worked too well. The housing broke free and went flying over the top of the machine. Made an awful clatter but there's no damage. MANY THANKS for your helpful and informative videos.
Sorry about that. I had another model in my mind and commented in haste. Crazy day, but no excuse. I’ll try to do better.
Just saved me on my old pawnshop special 158.12150. Thanks!
I've watched your three videos on how to oil a 158. Thanks for the help. But I still haven't seen how you open the top housing to oil up there--you begin all three videos with the housing already open. Bought my first 158.19131 a few days ago. Would sure like to know how to access the upper portion of the machine.
Remove the two slotted screws and the top lifts right off. There’s one on the right, and one on the left.
Thank you for these videos!
Thank you for the great info! How often is this maintenance work needed?
At least annually. If you sew a lot, maybe sooner.
Most importantly, add a drop of oil to your race assembly after two bobbins have been used up.
Remove the bobbin case and put your needle in its highest position.
Drop the oil just inside the retainer ring and onto the race itself.
I have a 158.1595281 and the idler pulley almost completely froze up. Upon taking it apart, I was surprised to see that there are absolutely no bearings in it. It doesn't seem especially worn, though. I don't know if someone previously oiled it with something like 3 in 1 and it turned into varnish, or if it was never oiled and that still happened. I'm also surprised not to find anything online, about someone else having the same problem or how they solved it. I sprayed wd40 in the hole and on the axle, and rubbed it down with a q-tip, and wiped it off as well as I can with a paper towel, and then I'm going to coat the axle in sewing machine oil and replace it.
That should work. I remove the axle and shine and polish it with a fine steel wool or crocus cloth. Then I oil it with sewing machine oil and reassemble it. As long as it spins freely on a fine layer of oil, it will be fine.
You are the best. Thank you!
Sometimes I am. Unfortunately, not often enough to become a trend. LOL. You’re welcome. Thanks for your kind words.
Hi, just discovered your channel. I own a 158 1802. I clean and oil regularly according to the manual. I ran across a website that went into detail of how the motor should be oiled. I've had my machine for 27 years (thrift store find) and have not had any problems out of it. I'd really like to know if I should oil the motor. It runs like a dream. Have never taken it in for service, not needed. Thank you for your videos.
If any oil is added, it would be sparingly at each end of the armature shaft. Often times you’ll see felt that is just visible inside the housing of the motor, at the ends of the armature shaft. That felt is a oil reservoir and is where the drops of oil is added. If you can, list that website and I will check it out. There are useful sites out on the webs that can help keep our machines running. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the videos! Helped bring my grandmas kenmore back to life. The grease behind the metal gasket where the gears are was really gross, black and orange and stinky. Is it possible that the grease and oil that was used before went rancid? The whole machine stinks up my apartment when in use, which lead me to cleaning it in the first place. Any tips to get it to smell better? Could I put a drop of lemon oil in the sewing machine oil?
@@killersofa oil wont mix with the fragrance.
The smell is maybe from the surface of the machine.
I have never changed gear box grease in 50 years.
It can sometimes get stiff if the seal is broken.
Otherwise it’s fine.
Clean the surface of the machine with Windex it works great for me.
Thank you for this video series! I have this machine and the series was so helpful. I do have a question if you see this, how often should I oil it to keep it working well?
@@laditidateginadiade7357 semi annual service is good. If you sew a lot, maybe more.
The most important place to keep oiled is your shuttle hook area.
When you have your bobbin case out, after you’ve used two full bobbins, add a drop of oil to the shuttle race.
@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you! I appreciate it
@@laditidateginadiade7357 you’re welcome and thanks for watching 😎👍🏼
Randy, Thank for these videos! May God Bless you for your service to us! I have a 158.13180 and oiled everything you pointed out, even stopping videos to get each place. Prior to oiling my zigzag knob has been a bear to turn, while the stitch length knob turns like a breeze. I took the machine out of the cabinet, turned it upside down on my lap and oiled the backside of the knob, any moving areas nearby, etc. It is still very hard to turn. (Prior to you oiling lessons, the zigzag stitch, itself, wouldn't work.) Now it's working, though skipping stitches. The zigzag knob is the only thing that hasn't changed, almost needing 2 hands to turn. Any ideas? Thank you!
Be patient and work it back and forth after spraying some penetrating oil into the affected area. You have to work the oil into the bearing. It takes a little time but it will work.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you, I will try this!
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 What brand penetrating oil do you use? We'd like to get a good one. WD40 comes up in search but another youtuber says it's a "big no no" and last resort.
@@Irish-Triplet “liquid wrench” has worked for a long time. There are many other brands that will probably do well also. Go to the hardware store or Home Depot and they will have several to choose from.
Thank you for your videos, Randy. I have a Kenmore Convertible, Model 1680 that I can't figure out how to get the bottom off to oil. Seems like it has weird screw thingies that I can't use a standard screw driver on. Can you help, please?
I’m only familiar with them having either a standard slotted screw or a Phillips #2 screw. If there’s something other than that, I’m not sure what it is.
I have a 158.1913 and have owned it since we brought it home from Sears in 1977. I love it! However it is starting to jam up. I found your oiling demos which definitely helped but my husband was not able to remove the base in order to oil underneath. Do you have a demo on how to remove the coverings?
There are quite a number of fasteners holding that bottom cover on. It’s just a matter of finding them and removing them. No secrets or tips to help you unfortunately, you just have to be diligent and locate them. I believe there are at least seven if I’m not mistaken.
Great video, thanks! I was wondering if you also oil the handwheel shaft for a 158.1941? It doesn't have a screw on the outside of the handwheel like this model does.
It’s a good idea to put a drop of oil on the hand wheel shaft.
Bravo! Great job! I really appreciate you showing me how to service lube my parents 158. 15251.
It looks exactly the same as yours here. I have the original purchase receipt when Dad bought it.
I spent a weekend of evenings following your direction on the series. It sounds like brand new now, just like it looks. Very smooth and quiet. I hit the front shaft with a couple drops of sewing machine oil every other session. The underside where the gear box is, I pushed the grease back into the gear because it was clear as factory new. Question, I have half a dozen greases, lithium, etc and everything for lighter lube including dry lubes. Is there any contact point besides that gear that can use a dab of grease rather than fine lightweight seeing machine oil?
Oil everything other than the gear box with a light sewing machine oil or equivalent.
I’m glad that you have that machine and it’s now in top shape.
I appreciate your comments and thanks for watching.
Can you show us how to open the front bacj cover of sewing machine .I have singer2112 .I am stuggling with its front knob .
Randy , Does the 158.17850 machine only go at one speed when sewing? The bobbin winder goes very fast which is perfect.
I was just given this machine and I followed all of your oiling video except taking off the bottom and the handwheel. I will not touch those areas.
Thank you for all your time!!
Please advise, Bev
It should go through a variable range as more pressure is applied to the foot control. If the bobbin winds at high speed then you know your motor and electrical is good, as well as belt tension. If the machine seems sluggish, there’s a dry bearing that needs a couple drops of oil. I would suggest that it’s the bearing that’s behind your shuttle driver assembly. Tilt the machine back and drop some oil drops where the shuttle driver enters the casting and rotates.
Thanks for your 3 part kenmore oiling videos. I followed your directions on my 158.17550 and it has been running pretty well, sounds nice and happy. Thanks so much. I'm still having an issue with the machine not feeding the fabric through. I have to manually pull or nudge the fabric,, almost like the feed dog is not operating. The feed dog lever is at "U" and I can see it moving the way it should. My stitch length is set for
the longest possible, but still the stitches are small, determined by how much I pull. Moving parts connected to the feed dog have been oiled several times. Any videos on this issue?
Yes. I have a video addressing that issue. First, be sure that your pressure button on the top left of the machine is screwed down and pushed down.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 I have the pressure knob all the way down; I don't know how to check that it is screwed down. It feels a little stiff so it will sit overnight with oil, even though it was oiled twice. I'd love to see that video. What is it called?
Thanks for the oil bottle recommendation; already ordered and received one. My husband hated the previous one and did his share of complaining about it.
@@joanasheville2981 the outside of the ring releases it and the inside button pops up. I will make another video in a few minutes and try to help.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thanks for the new video. Very clear; however my other Sewing Machine Man (husband) just finally found the issue and fixed it with super penetrating oil. It was the mechanism attached to the stitch length knob. This machine had been hibernating in a shed for at least a decade before I adopted it and it has required a lot of oil, patience, and trial and error, just like you said. Husband said he would rather not be #1 Sewing Machine Man but he will keep doing dishes. So we're all good! Do you ever advise on Necchis?
@@joanasheville2981 I can do a Necchi video. Which one do you have?
You’re in good shape with a hubby that can fix sewing machines and helps with the dishes. I know that all too well at times.
I just inherited a Kenmore 158.353 with a model 605 motor. Any tips on getting it to a better condition?
Wish you'd shown how to remove the bottom. I've taken out the 5 screws, but it's still hanging up at a little nub over on the left near the bobbin area. I'm afraid that little nub is going to break off, and can't figure out how to remove the bottom plate because of that. Mine is a 158.15251. (All 158s are not alike!)
True. They are sometimes quite different in their covers and components. Look on the left side of the bottom and make sure the small end cover is removed. Sometimes it has a single screw in the center. Taking that bottom cover off becomes an exercise in finesse so you wiggle it and maneuver it carefully so the little tab doesn’t break.
Hi Randy! Great video. I just got a similar machine (Kenmore 1040). It sat unused for a few years apparently. The lower belt is slipping and not engaging. Do you have any recommendation for parts I can tighten? Is it worth replacing? The belt has thread through the middle. When I opened the side panel for the first time, some of that thread was separating from the rubber teeth. Has the belt reached the end of its life?
I cleaned the belt. I’d like to try tightening the clutch but am having a hard time getting the screw loosened. Is that a left or a right loosen?
@@ashleyhoward8302 the screw is a left turn to loosen.
The bolt at the motor will allow you to tighten the belt.
The belts are available online.
Sewingpartsonline.com or Amazon will have them.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 thank you!! Looking closer at my lower belt, it definitely needs replaced. It has some degradation that I think is causing the slipping. Do you happen to know what length and style of belt is correct for this machine?
@@ashleyhoward8302 just search using your Kenmore model and belts for sale:
Kenmore 158.1040 belts for sale.
All the sellers will appear. To be sure the belt is correct, measure the length (circumference).
Some belts are identified by the numeric equivalent of their length, such as:
12 3/4 = 1234
11 1/2. = 1112
14 3/4 = 1434
Etc.
I cannot loosen the dial to use the bobbin winder. Any ideas?
Randy I have a Kenmore 158.16900. I really want to open the gear box and take a look at the old grease. Maybe add new or just redistribute the old stuff does the old grease wear out? Also are todays grease’s better than the grease of years ago. And Randy what size are the screws that go thru the bottom of the case plate that holds the sewing machine while ypu transport/carry the machine? Thanks Mike
Sure. Take the cover stews loos and probe underneath with a small thin screwdriver. If the grease is still pliable and not hardened, you’re all set. It’s rare to find the grease hardened but if it is, take out the hard stuff and put new grease in. Anything from wheel bearing grease to Vaseline petroleum jelly will be fine. Not a high speed area and no high temps are created.
Thank you Randy for all your help.
@@mahhubbard you’re welcome
Guess what I am doing for my wife on Christmas day? Hahaha!
If you are cleaning and oiling her sewing machine, welcome to my world. My wife’s machine gets what I call “Perpetual Care”. When she says it’s due for some TLC, I’m on it. It’s the least I can do for her. After all, she’s put up with me for 43 years. I’m definitely getting the better end of the deal. Merry Christmas.
How do you change the wick in the motor?
@@tanyajones5821 there are oiling points at each end of the motor armature. They require minimal oil.
There are no wicks to change per se.
Hi, my my feed dogs go up and down, but not back and forth?
See response on your other entry.
Thanks so much!!
You’re certainly welcome.
…how do I take off the bottom?
I can't thank you enough for these videos! You've saved me so much time, effort, and frustration. But after oiling my machine I'm still having zig zag probs. Tried to find your Facebook group to share a video but I've had no luck. Your email address isn't in your "about" info..... help!
I have a Kenmore 158.19412.
@@thereallisamarchbanks oiling and repeatedly working that zig zag mechanism (left and right) while it is in its widest setting, is the way I get it to eventually cooperate.
Make sure the machine is set for the zig zag stitch and it’s set on its widest setting.
When it swings to the left, leave the needle bar in the left position and push it to the right.
If it won’t move, swing it to the right side, and work it to the left.
It will usually take many back and forth motions to get it to start responding to the return spring.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 did it! You are awesome!
hey i have a kenmore, but i dont know what model it is and the lady who we got it from has passed and i dont know how to use it, can you help me. it looks like yours but has different features
Basically all the machine works the same way .Just google it how to thread the machine or how to put the bobbin .Once you thread the machine ,fill the bobbin and put bobbin in place you are good to go .
I made the mistake of getting oil on the belt pully's on the right hand side. Now the shaft is slipping and it wasn't before. How can I fix that? I have some degreaser.
Wipe it off with an absorbent cloth and make sure the belt is adjusted properly. It shouldn’t be a big deal.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank you for the response. I found that I did not reassemble the hand wheel correctly but I found your video on how to do it correctly. I appreciate you!
@@tilli2971 👍🏼
randy what be wrong with your kenmore sewing went it spin and and run slow
Maybe a loose belt or the hand wheel clutch knob needs to be tightened.
Hi Randy..back again w my 158.75020 (I think that's it). Well I got everything well oiled including the clutch which wouln't move before. Got feed dogs moving front to back but the thread tension lever & the feed dog switch still do not move. My motor is on the outside. I hope I didn't over oil. This had been sitting a long long time. I may have gotten oil on the belt. Do I need to replace belt? Should I remove black gear box cover and oil in there? What with? If I over oiled, should I just let it sit and dry up?? Last ?, do you have to have cams to stitch a straight stitch (I don't think so but would that be why the take up lever for thread isn't moving? Thx so much!
Don’t know if your hand wheel is turning or whether the machine is locked up. I don’t know what a thread tension lever is. The feed dog switch needs to be coaxed gently sometimes by lightly tapping on the underneath mechanism with a plastic handled screwdriver or wooden handled screwdriver. Tap on the left side of the slide mechanism to make it move to the right. Don’t try to muscle anything or you might break it. A little oil on the belt won’t hurt it. Just wipe it off. Leave the black gearbox cover on as that area is packed with grease. No oil goes in there. I’m assuming that the machine is turning freely? No cams necessary for doing a straight stitch.
The handwheel is turning just fine. I meant the thread take up lever. Will try tapping gently underneath the feed dog switch. Just can't figure out why the thread take up doesn't move when I turn the hand wheel.
@@mcrogerr0ck don’t tap the thread take up lever.
@@mcrogerr0ck just tap lightly on the feed dog slide mechanism. If your hand wheel is turning, the thread take up lever should be turning also. If the hand wheel is turning, and the clutch is installed properly and tightened down, everything should be moving, including the thread take up lever.
Is it possible to install the clutch in such a way that it tightens and loosens the way it is supposed to but doesn't move the thread take up lever? There was no rubber washer when I took the clutch knob off, just the little circular thingamajig. Thank you for the generosity of your time on this.
What did. you say at minute 2 about the needle clamp
Sometimes you have to hold the needle clamp for a few moments, to allow the hand wheel to break free from the main shaft and spin. It also deglazes the contact surface where the hand wheel spins on the shaft.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 Thank-you. Are you going to be able to give me any hints on how to get to the innards on my Kenmore 148.296, made around 1966?
@@twinstar9 one of the many great things about the vintage Kenmores like yours, is their easy access to the inner workings. Usually there are a couple screws on top that, when removed, allow access to the upper mechanisms. On the bottom cover, it’s the same, just with more screws. Remove the screws. Set them aside and don’t lose them. Sometimes the top cover snaps on and off. If there are no screws present, yours is a snap off.
@@twinstar9 if yours has a one piece, cast iron configuration, just access your oiling holes on top and judiciously add drops of oil in the holes. If you have an extendable spout oiler with a narrow metal tube, it’s easier to control the oil flow. For the bottom, tilt it up and oil what you see.
@@randyyoursewingmachineman9954 It's the one piece cast iron but it is not sewing. I therefore don't know how to troubleshoot since I can't see inside. Seems like a terrible waste of my $16 haha. But I really want to get it to work. I only found one other like it online which took 2 1/2 years to sell!
This video's oil right.
LOL. 👍