How to install a Roll-up Door (DBCI 2500 series): DIY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
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This video is about each step for installing a Roll-up Door.
I'll take you through each component and show you just how each one is used. A Roll-up door is common in Steel Buildings and Warehouses. They are also known as Bay Doors or Commercial Garage Doors.
If you want to support us, Please be sure and SUBSCRIBE to the channel. I am a contractor and specialize in metal building sales and installation. I release a video every 2 weeks. I try and keep it entertaining but also instructional on special installs like this video.
Thanks for Watching!
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Last week I had this exact door(2500) 14’x 14’ ripped out of the tracks on both the front and back of my building from a rainstorm that blew through central Texas. It’s a good door just can’t take high winds. I’m upgrading next week to the 5000 series with with wind locks. Hopefully that will solve my issue. I had no idea there we better options when I ordered my building from my supplier. Make sure your customers are aware of wind rated door options. They aren’t that much more than the standard doors. Great video!
I mentioned in the video about spinning the door while it was still packaged to apply tension on the spring but I didn't show it. This is a main part of the installation. It can be fixed afterwards but is aggravating. Thanks for the support and please subscribe!
Wind rated doors are a good option but aren't needed in most of the country. I have installed thousands of doors and had a very low percentage blow out. They were caused by unexpected storms. They typically give the customer problems quicker than regular doors so we typically use only when we are in high wind zones.
Great video ! thanks for the info! I have ordered a 12x10 3000 series . Do you recall what dimension eave strut was used in the video where the roll up door was installed? Looks like 6"X4"
The Eave Strut is a 5 x 8 x 3
If you have speced a Mansaras motor would the chain hoist chain be installed on the end opposite the motor end?
No it will come with a different style chain hoist that is more than likely hooked to the motor.
Thank you very much for your super quick reply! Subscribed!
Was looking for the gap between the edge of the door and the guide rail. My door is 175 inches wide. The drawings are not very clear. I added an inch to each side. You said a 1/4 inch each side. I'm going to try a 1/2 inch each side. Thanks for the detailed video....👍👍
What brand level do you recommend?
I'm not favorable to a brand. I do like lasers over the old traditional bubbles tho.
wow that is one weak looking door. compared to the overhead door brand I am putting up this looks like a kids toy.
would love to see a video of your door installation
Thank you very much for this video, bro. I really appreciate it. I’m gonna be installing my first one in a few weeks doesn’t seem too crazy. I usually work on residential so I’m hoping for the best
If I want to install a 12'x12' door will a true 12'x12' opening be what I need? Is there room for adjustments? I plan on using C purlins and making a true 12'x12' if that will work. TIA
Yes your frame measurements are what the door size is called.
A 12*12 will be exactly that. The door will actually measure 12'4"-12'6" according to what series or door tracks are used.
@@BuildingwithNARF , Ty sir. After I thought about it I went out and measured the door and as you said it is actually 12' 4".
How much headspace for a 10-ft door?
@@dapperdanp2485 10'x10' door needs ~ 16"-20" clearance above opening height.
The instructions show to use the front bracket holes to mount the axle to the bracket, and it looks like you used the other two holes (back holes) unless I have them confused, but my instructions even show a picture with the 10-foot door using the two holes furthest from the wall on the bracket. I installed it the way the instructions say, and it doesn't look right as there is way too big of a gap between the door and header, so Im going to have to do it the way you did it. I don't know why the instructions are showing it as different.
Adjust the gap to the tightest fit when the door is in an open position. Use the holes accordingly.. This changes with different door sizes.
@@BuildingwithNARF Thanks for the reply. It's a 12-foot long x 10-foot high door. I moved the axle brackets to the other holes, which fixed it.
Why don’t these doors have those felt strips on the inside to protect it when rolling up? I just installed a 16’ door at my house and after a few uses I can see where the door rubs on itself when rolling up. 😢 everything is plumb and level. Was very careful double and triple checking when setting my mounting plates with laser.
Thank you for the video. Have a VERY similar DCBI door, same hardware (11x12) - had no idea what we were doing... Very helpful! THX!
How long does it take your crew to install one this size?
2 guys...2 hours
I wish you included the actual tightening adjustment process
Very helpful video guys. Appreciate it. I liked and subscribed 👍
How much to install a big roll up door like run??? Just the install?
Where does the lintel fasten too? Great vids brother big help.
The lintel is fastened to each jamb with bolts. (Jambs and header/lintel are the frame work of the opening). This should be installed before the door installation.
liked the video,
I just installed 5 12'x12' dbci 2000 series doors and the doors drag the header a slight bit the 1st few feet down when going down or the last few feet when going up. I even tried to pull the doors all the way back from the opening with the adjustment on the bracket and it still hits the head some. It almost seems like the metal is so flimsy it just kinda bounces at that certain point and bumps up against the header., during the 1st few spins off the roll or the last few when it's going back up. It has a plenty big enough gap. When the door is going down it hits the top of the header and when coming up it bumps the bottom of the header. Any advice? It's already ruining the door. Thanks in advance.
Give more space between the header and door, by adjusting the door spacing on the brackets. The door gets bigger in the roll when door is open position. Open the door all the way and make sure there is enough clearance between the roll and header. Hope this helps and you subscribe to my channel.
@@BuildingwithNARF , I did. adjusted the door space on the brackets as far back as it will allow me. It still just barely bumps it, scratching the paint. When I 1st attempt to roll the door down I can look up in between the door curtain and the frame and it has enough space, all the space I can allow it in fact. If i reel it real slow it doesn't seem to hit it, but if I reel it down at a normal pace it's like the door is flimsy and that space and the door bounces into the header. Once the door is down in the guide about 2 feet the flimsy "play" goes away.
It is only the 2000 series and the metal seems light, but I wouldn't have thought it would cause this problem
Oh yeah, let me add that it's basically in the very center of the door where it drags, in 1 spot. Maybe that is helpful info.
@@jmsjro6 Are the bolts installed in the center of the door to the bottom galvanized metal support?
The plastic came off the door the door is completely rolled out how do I get the door back on the ruler so I can hang the door by
Roll it back up and use a strap or rope to hold until u get it hung
is this the same as a Janus 2500 door? Looks very similar.
Very similar.. different hardware...concept is the same.
Iam installing one of ur doors 8x8 on wood framing .Any recommendation on bolts for metal plates. Video on wood framed install would also be nice but this video really helps
An 8*8 is a little different on installation but the concept remains the same.
I believe we use a 3/8" lag bolt for the plates. You may possibly use a structural screw. A door this small should bolt to the tracks and this helps with holding the weight.
Thanks
Have you ever installed glass paneled roll up doors?
No I haven't.
where are you guys located?
Georgia
Witch way you spin the door.
Spin it like u are rolling it down. This sets the spring to help pull it back up or open.
Spin the door in the downward or closing position. This sets the spring to help open or pull it back upward
What exactly do you mean “spins the door?” Please elaborate.
@@jesusisaliberal548 When it is still wrapped, just rotate it 2 full turns in the up direction like you want to close it but it won't because it is still wrapped. This will put a bit of a tension on the spring.
I have several 14x14 DBCI doors at a boat/RV storage. These doors don’t have the “gripper” to hold the shaft while you use a pipe wrench to adjust the tension on the door. I guess I’ll have to use two pipe wrenches to add tension.
Yes a down fall of DBCI...You will need 2 people to be safe and 2 pipe wrenches. Be very careful, this is very dangerous.
I have this brand door on my garage. It’s an 8x8 today it wouldn’t budge when trying to open it and I noticed the spring has broken. It doesn’t have the chain opener just pull up on it. I would think it would still open if it was just the spring but it’s down hard. Seems like it’s actually pushed down harder then it normally is when closed. Any advice on what to look at or how to fix it
You can get a new spring reinstalled but if it has a drum with the spring inside it's about not worth the trouble. A few dollars more buy a new door.
@@BuildingwithNARF do you have to pre load the spring or just Instal it with the door down ?
Yes, I roll the door twice before letting the door down. This preloads the spring.