Thanks so much for all your testing, I just ordered a set of the Sim Jack Pros a few days ago. As they should be here late next week that gives me just enough time to order some of these so I can test various configurations when they arrive. I generally prefer stiff pedals so I'll likely start with some of the stiffer options you mentioned. Great channel, sorely undersubscribed!!
Interested to hear when you try them. I've got the simjack pro's an they come with a fairly different setup to the mini's including what looks like a much thicker spring. I tightened mine to give the spring a decent amount of preload and I think they feel pretty damn good. Not sure I'm going to bother trying anything else yet.
I did the skateboard bushings mod. I was reluctant at first because now the brake pedal has literally 0 travel. Like pretty much 0. I was like - this is not going to work, this must be crap. But I started driving and after a few laps and then watching my replays I noticed that while I'm racing BTCC (so FWD no ABS) I do almost 0 lockups and I am much more consistent with the braking. This is definitely not ideal and there is still a lot more space for improvement, but with stock spring there was just no confidence in braking whatsoever. Thanks for this video man!
I also swapped out the spring for some urethane bushings, really like it now. The other mod I did was to use the lower holes in the pedal plates to raise up the height. From memory it just required drilling one new hole and countersinking the other pre existing lower holes. Again another nice improvement to the feel.
Really appreciate the work and info on these ! I am running the medium spring from my T-LCM pedals and shore 55 Hawksworth rubber . Preferring a longer pedal travel this works well for me !
I don't have Sim Jacks. I have Steel GT from BJ Sim Racing. The elastomers are too stiff and I wished I bought their Nitroflex and try it out. Instead I got some elastomers from Kapral Sim Racing and it helped. Got some 70 and 80 shores elastomers. Though the holes are too big. They're like 10.5 mm wide and my brake rod is 8mm. It still works.
Awesome video. I like the high def pictures in the end. I wonder if those rubbers are durable, especially the 3D printed ones. In theory the spring should outlast any rubber/plastic as they lose their properties (compress/breakdown) over time, but at the same time the rubbers have better feeling and are easily and cheaply replaceable. Sim Jack owns you some $$ for all the extra sales your videos will generate :)
I'm ready to upgrade my pedals (my wheelbase is still up the in air, lol, I can't decide) but I can get a 50% off deal on the Sim Jack Pros with free shipping. The fact that they can be improved with $5 skateboard bushings has sold me on them. Ultimately I want the Simagic P1000 pedals with haptics, but that's $700 more than I have up spend. Thank you for doing such detailed, in depth reviews on this product. It helped convinced me it's a worthy buy for my budget setup. 😊
Could do a hydraulic mod to this if you could make a mount for the master. You could just run it to a pull type slave and put some of those bushings on that. Cool idea though thanks for the links in the description to those parts.
On aliexpress many seller sells pneumatic rods for these pedals, got one for my other aliexpress pedals (simmon pedals) still waiting for them to come but the should be here by next week
While I was watching your review of the pedals, I thought to myself, "Why don't you just add preload tension to the spring to mitigate its long travel?". And watching this video I realised, it simply isn't possible. As the Simjack pedals use just rods, applying preload just results in the pedal face moving towards the driver. I think this is a major design flaw. As a comparison: My Pedals (Girro Sim XR Pro) use bolts with heads, providing a fixed stop for the resting position. Which means I can adjust the pedals's position and the preload independently. Additionally, Girro adds some plastic tubes resp. sleeves you can put on the rod beneath every elastomer or spring, preventing the elastomers from blowouts and optionally limiting the spring's travel. I think this is quite a smart and effective design, with which I was able to dial in the break behaviour just as I like it. Trying to attach a photos link: photos.app.goo.gl[slash]AaSXQzPZC746n8z86 On the second photo you might get a glimpse of that plastic sleeve limiting the travel of the spring.
@@SimRacingCorner of course the price to performance ratio is _really_ nice, and I'm not trying to _bash_ Simjack's design, just pointing out a possible source of frustration (just like you did) 🙂 But: This also offers the opportunity for vast improvements at a low price. You just need to find a M8 bolt with the correct length to fix this.
Thanks for the walk through. I've got a bunch of those elastomers in the video. Mostly for my Sprints and TLCM... also a Fanatec V2. I sold all my wheels accept one. My pedals arrive in a few weeks. The Sim Jack Pro with Hydro rodes. Is it DIYview you're using to calibrate them? how hard is that to set up.
I half-wished I bought skateboard bushings instead of elastomers. Because elastomers are hard to find, I had to buy them from Kapral and they're based in Czech Republic and I had to pay to ship them all the way from that country to England. In total in cost around £40. Three elastomers (two 70 shore and one 80 shore) including postage. Thank goodness I wasn't charged import tax by UPS, DPD, Royal Mail or whoever. I want to be careful not to order too many elastomers or I will get hit by tax. I feel like a mug not knowing about skateboard bushings as they're much easier to find and don't have to look at shops outside the UK for them.
I have the Moza SR-P based on your review in the past, but what are your thoughts compared to Moza SR-P with the performance mod? Is the throttle really that much better?
I've watched your other videos, but now with this (these) mods, is it a steep upgrade compared to TLCM? I currently have TLCM and debating whether to get Simjack Pros as they are on really good sale which would only need me to budget around 100 out of pocket after selling TLMCs lol.
I followed your guide, I’m running x4 hawksworth spacers. I find them very linear with no ramp up at the end of the pedal travel? Once o get to the end of the travel they just become a squishy mess. Any ideas?
i wish i had any other place to buy Hawksworth Rubber spacers or similar, because the import fees for me are impossible even with the low price they are.
I can't seem to get the back plate off the brake to change uo the elastomers. I've loosened the preload and assembly. That metal little square ain't budging! Is there a trick getting it out?
Mine was also jammed in tightly. I used screwdriver and hammer to tap it out. As I was testing lots of configurations, I took a file to the plate to loosen the fit to make it easier to work with.
@Sim Racing Corner ok i also figured out you can just unscrew the other end of the rod. At least, with the Pro's. But Sadly none of my sprint or tlcm elastomers fit the Sim Jack Pro rod. I'd have to have special elastomers made.
I got some aliexpress pedals (which are the same of sim jack pro pedals) and yeah the brake is shit, but it has a HUGE deadzone, DIVIEW does not recognize before a good press, yous had any problem like that? And any idea how to fix, it looks like the spring and rubber that comes with it does not apply enought force, but iu might be wrong
I haven't had that problem. The load cell will be under some tension, so it should be sensitive enough to pick that up. Objectively, from your description, the load cell sounds like it's faulty. Also test the brake pedal in either the throttle or clutch sockets in DIVIEW. You're trying to establish if it's the load cell or controller board at fault.
It would give a progress feel. The hawkingsworth rubber pieces are decently cheap, much cheaper than 3drap alternatives, so you can buy a bunch of different sizes and test them out
Some are! These are two options for you. 3DRAP Fanatec CSL Pedals Elastomer Brake MOD th-cam.com/video/LQfbcqIAiqM/w-d-xo.html Fanatec CSL Load Cell DIY Spring MOD [REVIEW/GUIDE] th-cam.com/video/oCdUoOjtEfU/w-d-xo.html
@simracingcorner what would you think is better, this simjack pedals or the tlcm, i currently have the tlcm with the 3drap mod, would this work better?
The SIm Jack pedals do give you a more substantial, realistic feel under your feet. But don't expect faster lap times. A load cell brake is a load cell brake. You can spend $1000+ on load cell pedals, and they won't help you get faster lap times.
![SIM JACK Mini Pedals [REVIEW] They look the part, but do they perform? WATCH THIS BEFORE BUYING!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JtsDGWEkGMA/mqdefault.jpg)
![SIM JACK Mini Pedals [REVIEW] They look the part, but do they perform? WATCH THIS BEFORE BUYING!](/img/tr.png)
![[REVIEW] 3DRAP Fanatec CSL Pedals Elastomer Brake MOD. Better feel, improved control! 🦶](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LQfbcqIAiqM/mqdefault.jpg)
🤑SIM JACK Mini Pedals Product page (best price) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCiVhQL
▶ SIM JACK Mini Pedals [REVIEW] th-cam.com/video/JtsDGWEkGMA/w-d-xo.html
▶ 3DRAP Fanatec CSL Pedals Elastomer Brake MOD th-cam.com/video/LQfbcqIAiqM/w-d-xo.html
▶ Apex V2R Performance Brake Mod Kit th-cam.com/video/QQ1SV0PsLBA/w-d-xo.html
▶ Thrustmaster T-LCM DIY Brake Mod th-cam.com/video/OmA11LLa9Yo/w-d-xo.html
▶ SIM JACK Mini Pedals [REVIEW] th-cam.com/video/JtsDGWEkGMA/w-d-xo.html
▶ Fanatec CSL Load Cell DIY Spring MOD [REVIEW/GUIDE] th-cam.com/video/oCdUoOjtEfU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks so much for all your testing, I just ordered a set of the Sim Jack Pros a few days ago. As they should be here late next week that gives me just enough time to order some of these so I can test various configurations when they arrive. I generally prefer stiff pedals so I'll likely start with some of the stiffer options you mentioned. Great channel, sorely undersubscribed!!
Interested to hear when you try them. I've got the simjack pro's an they come with a fairly different setup to the mini's including what looks like a much thicker spring. I tightened mine to give the spring a decent amount of preload and I think they feel pretty damn good. Not sure I'm going to bother trying anything else yet.
I did the skateboard bushings mod. I was reluctant at first because now the brake pedal has literally 0 travel. Like pretty much 0. I was like - this is not going to work, this must be crap. But I started driving and after a few laps and then watching my replays I noticed that while I'm racing BTCC (so FWD no ABS) I do almost 0 lockups and I am much more consistent with the braking. This is definitely not ideal and there is still a lot more space for improvement, but with stock spring there was just no confidence in braking whatsoever. Thanks for this video man!
Maybe you could cut the bushing In half and add a small spring behind it for quicker initial travel?
I also swapped out the spring for some urethane bushings, really like it now. The other mod I did was to use the lower holes in the pedal plates to raise up the height. From memory it just required drilling one new hole and countersinking the other pre existing lower holes. Again another nice improvement to the feel.
Great video, Just bought a set of the Sim Jacks so i should see them in a week. This will give me time to get some springs in to mod the brake
Really appreciate the work and info on these ! I am running the medium spring from my T-LCM pedals and shore 55 Hawksworth rubber . Preferring a longer pedal travel this works well for me !
I don't have Sim Jacks. I have Steel GT from BJ Sim Racing. The elastomers are too stiff and I wished I bought their Nitroflex and try it out. Instead I got some elastomers from Kapral Sim Racing and it helped. Got some 70 and 80 shores elastomers. Though the holes are too big. They're like 10.5 mm wide and my brake rod is 8mm. It still works.
Awesome video. I like the high def pictures in the end. I wonder if those rubbers are durable, especially the 3D printed ones. In theory the spring should outlast any rubber/plastic as they lose their properties (compress/breakdown) over time, but at the same time the rubbers have better feeling and are easily and cheaply replaceable. Sim Jack owns you some $$ for all the extra sales your videos will generate :)
Great work Sim Bae! Nice sprinkling of mods .
Thank you for the upgrade info shall see if it works for me
I replaced the stock spring with an engine valve spring from a 100cc scooter bike. Printed spring guides to match.
I'm ready to upgrade my pedals (my wheelbase is still up the in air, lol, I can't decide) but I can get a 50% off deal on the Sim Jack Pros with free shipping.
The fact that they can be improved with $5 skateboard bushings has sold me on them. Ultimately I want the Simagic P1000 pedals with haptics, but that's $700 more than I have up spend.
Thank you for doing such detailed, in depth reviews on this product. It helped convinced me it's a worthy buy for my budget setup. 😊
Could do a hydraulic mod to this if you could make a mount for the master. You could just run it to a pull type slave and put some of those bushings on that. Cool idea though thanks for the links in the description to those parts.
On aliexpress many seller sells pneumatic rods for these pedals, got one for my other aliexpress pedals (simmon pedals) still waiting for them to come but the should be here by next week
Hawkeng 8mm (M8) with hardness A55 seems hard to find. Great video!
amazon has them but i found them too stiff
Got some simsonns but same issue - too much travel and mushy feeling. Looks like it is skateboard bushing for me 😊
While I was watching your review of the pedals, I thought to myself, "Why don't you just add preload tension to the spring to mitigate its long travel?".
And watching this video I realised, it simply isn't possible. As the Simjack pedals use just rods, applying preload just results in the pedal face moving towards the driver. I think this is a major design flaw.
As a comparison: My Pedals (Girro Sim XR Pro) use bolts with heads, providing a fixed stop for the resting position. Which means I can adjust the pedals's position and the preload independently.
Additionally, Girro adds some plastic tubes resp. sleeves you can put on the rod beneath every elastomer or spring, preventing the elastomers from blowouts and optionally limiting the spring's travel.
I think this is quite a smart and effective design, with which I was able to dial in the break behaviour just as I like it.
Trying to attach a photos link:
photos.app.goo.gl[slash]AaSXQzPZC746n8z86
On the second photo you might get a glimpse of that plastic sleeve limiting the travel of the spring.
Nice info, thanks. Realistically, given the low price of the Sim Jack pedals, I think we have to accept some level of imperfection.
@@SimRacingCorner of course the price to performance ratio is _really_ nice, and I'm not trying to _bash_ Simjack's design, just pointing out a possible source of frustration (just like you did) 🙂
But: This also offers the opportunity for vast improvements at a low price. You just need to find a M8 bolt with the correct length to fix this.
Actually you can apply preload, this pedals have a limiter for the rest position, underneath the red bump stop.
@@Spinado83 that's even better, thanks for the information!
Thanks for the walk through. I've got a bunch of those elastomers in the video. Mostly for my Sprints and TLCM... also a Fanatec V2. I sold all my wheels accept one. My pedals arrive in a few weeks. The Sim Jack Pro with Hydro rodes. Is it DIYview you're using to calibrate them? how hard is that to set up.
Here's my DIVIEW guide you can check out. It's not a difficult procedure. th-cam.com/video/uASHMGF-gP4/w-d-xo.html
@@SimRacingCorner thanks that's a big help
I half-wished I bought skateboard bushings instead of elastomers. Because elastomers are hard to find, I had to buy them from Kapral and they're based in Czech Republic and I had to pay to ship them all the way from that country to England. In total in cost around £40. Three elastomers (two 70 shore and one 80 shore) including postage. Thank goodness I wasn't charged import tax by UPS, DPD, Royal Mail or whoever. I want to be careful not to order too many elastomers or I will get hit by tax. I feel like a mug not knowing about skateboard bushings as they're much easier to find and don't have to look at shops outside the UK for them.
It works any of these mods for a t3pm pedal thrustmaster? Nice video!
I have the Moza SR-P based on your review in the past, but what are your thoughts compared to Moza SR-P with the performance mod? Is the throttle really that much better?
i need those springs and bushings so much
I've watched your other videos, but now with this (these) mods, is it a steep upgrade compared to TLCM?
I currently have TLCM and debating whether to get Simjack Pros as they are on really good sale which would only need me to budget around 100 out of pocket after selling TLMCs lol.
I followed your guide, I’m running x4 hawksworth spacers. I find them very linear with no ramp up at the end of the pedal travel? Once o get to the end of the travel they just become a squishy mess. Any ideas?
This better than the Simjack Pro? And is this significantly better than the T-LCM with the mod? Thanks!
i wish i had any other place to buy Hawksworth Rubber spacers or similar, because the import fees for me are impossible even with the low price they are.
Brazil? Haha me too, one of the worst places to import things. By the way, have you imported the simjacks? What about the taxes and waiting time?
@@wernernast just the shifter , had no tax on import, but the price was way lower
I'm doing a pedal project, if anyone knows how to tell me... what is the length of the springs used in this product? Thanks.
Hi great review im gonna get the hawksworth spacers should i get pennywashers that are m8 x 40mm or m8 x 30mm ? cheers
i bought the 30 mm the rubbers i got are 26mm so yh all good nice review been waiting for this for a long time thanks
the hawksworth spacers 55 shore are too stiff for me i had a blue die spring that seems ok
I heard Calibration of the brake goes out depending on room temperature. Have you noticed any issues?
I haven't experienced that issue, or at least noticed anything.
How do the compare to the fanatec csp v3
I can't seem to get the back plate off the brake to change uo the elastomers. I've loosened the preload and assembly. That metal little square ain't budging! Is there a trick getting it out?
Mine was also jammed in tightly. I used screwdriver and hammer to tap it out. As I was testing lots of configurations, I took a file to the plate to loosen the fit to make it easier to work with.
@Sim Racing Corner ok i also figured out you can just unscrew the other end of the rod. At least, with the Pro's. But Sadly none of my sprint or tlcm elastomers fit the Sim Jack Pro rod. I'd have to have special elastomers made.
does they work for u in every sim? mine only work in AC,ACC, Iracing....but not in rFactor or Automobilista
Ok for all Sim for me.
I know it was a long time ago but do you think diy sim lab gt1 is still good or do you have better plans? I want to build it next week
Sure, proportionally a good solid design. The sim rig I still use today is essentially this style.
I got some aliexpress pedals (which are the same of sim jack pro pedals) and yeah the brake is shit, but it has a HUGE deadzone, DIVIEW does not recognize before a good press, yous had any problem like that?
And any idea how to fix, it looks like the spring and rubber that comes with it does not apply enought force, but iu might be wrong
I haven't had that problem. The load cell will be under some tension, so it should be sensitive enough to pick that up. Objectively, from your description, the load cell sounds like it's faulty. Also test the brake pedal in either the throttle or clutch sockets in DIVIEW. You're trying to establish if it's the load cell or controller board at fault.
should t you limit a pedal's travel to avoid a spring's coils contact?
No
@@SimRacingCorner why? it wears a spring a lot, because of fatigue.
@@MrBirdshell666 I've never had a spring fail, it's not a problem. That's all I can tell you.
@@MrBirdshell666 they're meant to be compressed and extended. Spring steel is very durable stuff
@@j.christ8786 actually no. reputable brands add a limiter, to prevent coils from touching each other. i did the same on my set
Hi bro ..test 2x55 shore plus 2x69 shore
It would give a progress feel. The hawkingsworth rubber pieces are decently cheap, much cheaper than 3drap alternatives, so you can buy a bunch of different sizes and test them out
Will this work on csl loadcell?
Some are! These are two options for you.
3DRAP Fanatec CSL Pedals Elastomer Brake MOD th-cam.com/video/LQfbcqIAiqM/w-d-xo.html
Fanatec CSL Load Cell DIY Spring MOD [REVIEW/GUIDE] th-cam.com/video/oCdUoOjtEfU/w-d-xo.html
@simracingcorner what would you think is better, this simjack pedals or the tlcm, i currently have the tlcm with the 3drap mod, would this work better?
The SIm Jack pedals do give you a more substantial, realistic feel under your feet. But don't expect faster lap times. A load cell brake is a load cell brake. You can spend $1000+ on load cell pedals, and they won't help you get faster lap times.