This morning I was looking for podcast episodes about bet sizes on flop, then tonight I saw your notification about this new video, what a nice gift! I watched it and I will rewatch it again❤
Hey Jonathan, thanks for the video! Love the examples using PeakGTO. What I think would be cool to see is more examples with stack depths of 200-400bb since that's what we play against the most in most 2-5 games. Appreciate it!
Hey Jonathan, been watching your vids for the past month or so and started playing around with Peak GTO. Thanks for all you’re doing! Some feedback and requests for your videos. I feel like you present a lot of info when displaying the charts and for people like me (just getting started with GTO poker), I would benefit from you showing some actual hands and discussing the mentality behind good plays vs. bad plays in those situations. You did that in your older videos and I found those examples more memorable than going over chart after chart. Maybe that’s just me, but thanks again for all the great content!
Choosing the perfect flop bet size depends on your goal: are you bluffing, protecting, or extracting value? Smaller bets (25-50% pot) work well on dry boards, while larger bets (70%+ pot) are better on wet boards or when protecting a strong hand. Always consider your opponents and board texture!
@PokerCoaching, I need help please. I can only afford this rebuy tournaments that cost 5 to 10 $ to get into... where people are rebuying and playing loose most of the tournament. On top of that they are buying the top off after the final rebuy. I've been able to figure a strategy to get close to the money quiet often but end up being short stacked in the end resulting in a risky shove. Should I be playing loose just trying to double up several times in the beginning? What can I do?
I am a relatively massive tournament winner at that buy in range; routinely get 1st and final table quite a bit in tournaments with anywhere from 80 - 800 players. (IE: Today alone; I've a 3rd place and 3 final tables of 7 MTTs played). If you are late registering, you want to shove when you get a premium and double up (AA/KK/QQ/JJ/AK are all viable shoves with 20bb - which is roughly where you will be late regging in a deep stack tournament); then you're basically playing ULTRA TAG until bubble pops. I know I know; J little tells you to shove pretty damn wide because of 'bubble fear'. There is no bubble fear; don't shove wide in $5/$10 buy in tournaments. I also widen my shove range if I drop too low in bb; but not as a way of abusing bubble - because there is no bubble fear; except maybe last 1 or 2 people before bubble bursts; but even then, you're playing with fire for no reason more often than not. Tournament from start? ULTRA LAG -> LAG -> TAG -> Ultra Tag -> Tag -> Lag -> Ultra Lag That is the order of aggression for tournaments. Here's what it means. ULTRA LAG -> You're playing pretty much any 2 cards if you can see flop for 5 or less BB; You should be more willing in late position; less willing with any 2 cards in early position. The less players that enter before you; the more you should feel pressure to see the flop with any hand. If you're on blinds, you should be calling anything less than about 5 bb. (Keep in mind, level 1 of a tournament, 5 bb is only like 100 chips of a 5k -> 10k chip stack. If you're starting stack is 3k or less; play tighter and don't call so loosely) Above can be summarized as 'Play loose when blinds are cheap relative to stack sizes). LAG as blinds get heavier. Stop calling any 2 from blinds, start calling hands like JTo, A7s, etc. (Which is still loose; but not 92o loose). TAG as you near bubble. The drop in players from the LAG stage to the bubble is relatively short (unless you're in a very large MTT with more than 500 players). Ultra TAG -> AK/AA/KK/QQ near bubble. Fold everything else. If you've had a rough start; you should basically be all in with any A+ kicker; it's better to get knocked out or double up if you're short stacked. The reason is because a short stack is going to get eaten, if you fold everything you will only min cash in most cases. If you double up successfully; you're in a good spot to play ULTRA TAG moving forward until bubble does burst. TAG -> After bubble bursts; you play tag. Basically CO preflop from any position (basically and don't sleep on targeting lower stack sizes than yourself with all ins, even if you have a mediocre hand). Play TAG all the way to final table. Once final table starts popping off; you'll have like 5 people left. This is where you swap back to LAG. When it gets down to you and one other player; you should play ultra lag. A+ kicker is an all in if the other person has less than 1/5th your stack size. In most cases you want to overwhelm the opponent with aggression; but be willing to fold if they fight back.
@@RoganBitsthat’s pretty awesome info. I got to that point only after hours of studying. Play loose early, tight on bubble, loose till Final table. Then your strategy changes to: if you are short stack - aggressive but tight, fight back to loose chip leader, pressure stacks shorter than you. Big stack loose aggressive. Pressure short stacks to steal blinds and dominate even more. Show them that their tournament life at risk
@@RoganBits I'm going to remember playing A+ and a little loose. my thing about the add on bubble everybody is calling anything and everything. I'll let ya'll know how things go at the next one. it's such a tough tournament when I can only buy in once. My strat was to play super tight and pick spots to double up or gain value. based on my stack size i would loosen up. then tight play on the "add on" bubble. ending up at the last table with 75,000 to 50,000 in chips when everyone else is sitting there with 150,000 + chip stacks blinds at 2,000 3,000 2,000 loosing 7,000 if im not playing my blind hands.
@@mikhailkim7940 out of aprox 20 of these tournaments buying in for 5$ ive made money once where we all agreed to split the winnings. and got close to the money bubble a few times.
@@briangrewe9849 bubble means ITM bubble. ITM = In The Money. Addon bubble isn't really a thing other than if it's a rebuy tournament, people stop going as insane after rebuy period ends.
The flop is the least important decision making street in poker. It's important to understand how your bet size will affect your opponents range on the turn-river but most of the time any decision you make on the flop won't be a huge loss in EV.
@@JKenny44 that’s what we at low stakes are. We are just fish, that can eat the other fish. The Phil Ivey’s of the world are Orca’s. They eat the sharks.
![What To Do When You MISS The FLOP [Poker Strategy]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CRKkf7Pug5k/mqdefault.jpg)
![$1/$2 Cash Game Preflop Strategy [Mastering The Fundamentals]](/img/n.gif)
Take your poker game to the next level with PEAKGTO! Go to pokercoaching.com/peakgto 📈
This morning I was looking for podcast episodes about bet sizes on flop, then tonight I saw your notification about this new video, what a nice gift!
I watched it and I will rewatch it again❤
Prefect timing! I'm so glad you enjoyed it 👊
Hey Jonathan, thanks for the video! Love the examples using PeakGTO. What I think would be cool to see is more examples with stack depths of 200-400bb since that's what we play against the most in most 2-5 games. Appreciate it!
Hey Jonathan, been watching your vids for the past month or so and started playing around with Peak GTO. Thanks for all you’re doing!
Some feedback and requests for your videos. I feel like you present a lot of info when displaying the charts and for people like me (just getting started with GTO poker), I would benefit from you showing some actual hands and discussing the mentality behind good plays vs. bad plays in those situations. You did that in your older videos and I found those examples more memorable than going over chart after chart.
Maybe that’s just me, but thanks again for all the great content!
Got to have a limit for free content.. no ?
Awesome video!
Thanks, I appreciate it Adrian!
Choosing the perfect flop bet size depends on your goal: are you bluffing, protecting, or extracting value? Smaller bets (25-50% pot) work well on dry boards, while larger bets (70%+ pot) are better on wet boards or when protecting a strong hand. Always consider your opponents and board texture!
A shark is a fish.
Thank you for your contribution
Whoa….thats deep!
Actually is a mammal😂 ahahahah kidding, before anyone says anything
It eats smaller fish 🐟 tho lol
But a fish isn't always a shark.
@PokerCoaching, I need help please. I can only afford this rebuy tournaments that cost 5 to 10 $ to get into... where people are rebuying and playing loose most of the tournament. On top of that they are buying the top off after the final rebuy. I've been able to figure a strategy to get close to the money quiet often but end up being short stacked in the end resulting in a risky shove. Should I be playing loose just trying to double up several times in the beginning? What can I do?
I am a relatively massive tournament winner at that buy in range; routinely get 1st and final table quite a bit in tournaments with anywhere from 80 - 800 players. (IE: Today alone; I've a 3rd place and 3 final tables of 7 MTTs played).
If you are late registering, you want to shove when you get a premium and double up (AA/KK/QQ/JJ/AK are all viable shoves with 20bb - which is roughly where you will be late regging in a deep stack tournament); then you're basically playing ULTRA TAG until bubble pops. I know I know; J little tells you to shove pretty damn wide because of 'bubble fear'. There is no bubble fear; don't shove wide in $5/$10 buy in tournaments. I also widen my shove range if I drop too low in bb; but not as a way of abusing bubble - because there is no bubble fear; except maybe last 1 or 2 people before bubble bursts; but even then, you're playing with fire for no reason more often than not.
Tournament from start? ULTRA LAG -> LAG -> TAG -> Ultra Tag -> Tag -> Lag -> Ultra Lag
That is the order of aggression for tournaments. Here's what it means.
ULTRA LAG -> You're playing pretty much any 2 cards if you can see flop for 5 or less BB; You should be more willing in late position; less willing with any 2 cards in early position. The less players that enter before you; the more you should feel pressure to see the flop with any hand. If you're on blinds, you should be calling anything less than about 5 bb. (Keep in mind, level 1 of a tournament, 5 bb is only like 100 chips of a 5k -> 10k chip stack. If you're starting stack is 3k or less; play tighter and don't call so loosely)
Above can be summarized as 'Play loose when blinds are cheap relative to stack sizes).
LAG as blinds get heavier. Stop calling any 2 from blinds, start calling hands like JTo, A7s, etc. (Which is still loose; but not 92o loose).
TAG as you near bubble. The drop in players from the LAG stage to the bubble is relatively short (unless you're in a very large MTT with more than 500 players).
Ultra TAG -> AK/AA/KK/QQ near bubble. Fold everything else. If you've had a rough start; you should basically be all in with any A+ kicker; it's better to get knocked out or double up if you're short stacked. The reason is because a short stack is going to get eaten, if you fold everything you will only min cash in most cases. If you double up successfully; you're in a good spot to play ULTRA TAG moving forward until bubble does burst.
TAG -> After bubble bursts; you play tag. Basically CO preflop from any position (basically and don't sleep on targeting lower stack sizes than yourself with all ins, even if you have a mediocre hand). Play TAG all the way to final table.
Once final table starts popping off; you'll have like 5 people left. This is where you swap back to LAG.
When it gets down to you and one other player; you should play ultra lag. A+ kicker is an all in if the other person has less than 1/5th your stack size. In most cases you want to overwhelm the opponent with aggression; but be willing to fold if they fight back.
@@RoganBitsthat’s pretty awesome info. I got to that point only after hours of studying.
Play loose early, tight on bubble, loose till Final table.
Then your strategy changes to: if you are short stack - aggressive but tight, fight back to loose chip leader, pressure stacks shorter than you.
Big stack loose aggressive. Pressure short stacks to steal blinds and dominate even more. Show them that their tournament life at risk
@@RoganBits I'm going to remember playing A+ and a little loose. my thing about the add on bubble everybody is calling anything and everything. I'll let ya'll know how things go at the next one. it's such a tough tournament when I can only buy in once.
My strat was to play super tight and pick spots to double up or gain value. based on my stack size i would loosen up. then tight play on the "add on" bubble. ending up at the last table with 75,000 to 50,000 in chips when everyone else is sitting there with 150,000 + chip stacks blinds at 2,000 3,000 2,000 loosing 7,000 if im not playing my blind hands.
@@mikhailkim7940 out of aprox 20 of these tournaments buying in for 5$ ive made money once where we all agreed to split the winnings. and got close to the money bubble a few times.
@@briangrewe9849 bubble means ITM bubble. ITM = In The Money.
Addon bubble isn't really a thing other than if it's a rebuy tournament, people stop going as insane after rebuy period ends.
Lets go!
The flop is the least important decision making street in poker.
It's important to understand how your bet size will affect your opponents range on the turn-river but most of the time any decision you make on the flop won't be a huge loss in EV.
@@JKenny44 that’s what we at low stakes are. We are just fish, that can eat the other fish. The Phil Ivey’s of the world are Orca’s. They eat the sharks.