I have just come across your videos. As a professional framing carpenter myself , I find these videos very accurate and easy to follow. I am getting my apprentices to check them out. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Luke Yes definitely Australian currently in Sydney but originally from country NSW. The whole reason I started this channel was because I was sick and tired of not being able to find anything but American, Imperial videos so it is great to get some positive feedback. Buildsum
Very happy to have finally found some roofing explanations told by whom sounds like an Aussie and speaks in metric terms not American bloody imperials....Loving the videos, good work! Simple and to the point..
Greetings from the UK. The angles for the lay board can be worked out on a square. Top cut is your Jack edge bevel and the seat cut is a purlin edge bevel. To work out the compound cut on the bottom: 1. Anywhere on the edge of timber mark the pitch. 2. Square the line across so you have a triangle. 3. Measure the dimension that is the "run" of the triangle. 4. You have the purlin edge bevel marked as your seat cut and measure parallel behind this line towards the top the dimension you have just got (run). 5. Square the lines across the top edge and join them up and you have your compound angle. Also the length can be worked out- On secondary roof CR, extend the seat cut through to the top edge. Measure the distance (a) of seat cut extension from corner of birds mouth to where it strikes top edge. Take the secondary roof common rafter run and add this dimension (a). Now times that O/A length by the hip/valley length per metre of CR run. That's to centre lines as always. Hope that's clear. The art is dying. Great video again. With the right roofing square, every angle and length can be worked out. Speed squares are a poor mans roofing square ;)
Hi Martin Yes, it is a dying art and while I usually develop the bevels directly or just calculate the actual angle i do still use the roofing square for the more common angles. Thanks for your detailed comments
Hi Mate, this is probaly one of the better ones. www.angusrobertson.com.au/books/the-roof-building-manual-lloyd-hiddle-allan-staines/p/9781875217328?gclid=CjwKCAiAgvKQBhBbEiwAaPQw3IIhcd5zqU6dIEU1xJeN-dsUi7wqx8_Tl8c2c7ZnekuZdpwS5M7I3BoC7mAQAvD_BwE
Great channel, I've been working on a few roofs now, and your detailed drawings have helped me work through onsite and not look like a complete tit! Im a trim carpenter by trade but expanding my knowledge and starting roofing. Love it thanks for the help. One question that would be greatly appreciated. Here in South France a lot of the home have decorative T&G so all the framing then T&G so internally its a open roof.... How would you support the Purlins without ceiling Joists etc? Do they need any support ?
Hi Sam, wow I never thought my videos would be useful in France, thanks for your comment. If you want to get rid of the need for Purlins, struts etc, you just need to make the rafters bigger so they can span the required distance without the need for them. Hope this helps
Scissor Struts can resolve that issue, Strutting beams as well. But as Buildsum has already mentioned for the open space created by using larger rafter sections engineer for the spans and roof pitch, often used as exposed rafters in a Cathedral design roof frame with either sheet or T&G(VJ) as an internal lining fixed to the top of the rafters/battens.
Hi Mate, 600 centres means that it is 600mm from the centre of one member to the centre of the next. This is how spacing is generally mentioned so it relates to any witdth member. When we measure the spacing we generally measure 'into over' so from the edge of the first member to the same edge of the next member, this distance will be the same as the spacing e.g.600mm. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum A great deal. Precise and clear to me now. Some other related question. How are valley cripples ,hip cripples and jacks calculated and marked?
Hi Mate, generally onsite nowdays they are measured in however they can be calculated. The easiest way is to work out a factor of the plan length of the member to the true length of the member, there are plenty of online calculators that will work this out for you if you are not sure how, www.blocklayer.com/riserun.aspx, be careful with hips as the angle of the hip is not the same as the angle of the roof. Then you just need to work out the plan length of the member and mulitpy by the factor to get the centreline true length of the member. Hope this makes sense,
Buildsum Thanks Again. The house is an early 1950's (Sydney, Aus), so the jack rafters don't sit flush with the top of the hip rafter - they sit a good 25-30mm below, I'm guessing this is how they did it then. If I run a layboard on the hip side then I'd have to knock the top of the hip to be flush with the tops of the rafters, correct?
Hi thank you so much for the reply. Is it a common thing if its not square as i am doing old to new. The plum ange shouldnt change but the side cut angle changed for the hip and the jacks attatching to the broken hip. The roof is all the same pitch.
Hi mate Yes it is pretty common for things to be out of square when going from old to new. It sounds a bit odd that the edge bevel has changed maybe the old building is out of square to the new one.
Than you so much for replying. Yes we completed today the walls are pretty out. Also the main governing pitch it not equal center. So the common crown rafters are longer on one side. If you have a email i can send the pics. Its nice talking to someone with roofing knowledge as a lot of people dont go deep enough into it. This roof has 7 hips.
Hi Mark, you must be able to however it is not metioned in AS1684, just about every other member can be joined or overlapped so the hips have to be able too be joined. I would say that the method would have to be similar to the way the ridge can be joined. th-cam.com/video/UR0-aClFZ1Q/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps.
+mike thompson Hi Mike Yes if you cut the common rafter for the minor (new)span and sit it in the existing roof it will give the the height of the ridge
Appreciate your videos mate please keep it up they are helping the community so much.
I have just come across your videos. As a professional framing carpenter myself , I find these videos very accurate and easy to follow. I am getting my apprentices to check them out.
Keep up the great work.
Thanks, Tony, great to hear that you like the videos, I hope you and your apprentice find them useful.
Thanks Luke
Yes definitely Australian currently in Sydney but originally from country NSW.
The whole reason I started this channel was because I was sick and tired of not being able to find anything but American, Imperial videos so it is great to get some positive feedback.
Buildsum
Very happy to have finally found some roofing explanations told by whom sounds like an Aussie and speaks in metric terms not American bloody imperials....Loving the videos, good work! Simple and to the point..
Greetings from the UK. The angles for the lay board can be worked out on a square. Top cut is your Jack edge bevel and the seat cut is a purlin edge bevel. To work out the compound cut on the bottom: 1. Anywhere on the edge of timber mark the pitch. 2. Square the line across so you have a triangle. 3. Measure the dimension that is the "run" of the triangle. 4. You have the purlin edge bevel marked as your seat cut and measure parallel behind this line towards the top the dimension you have just got (run). 5. Square the lines across the top edge and join them up and you have your compound angle. Also the length can be worked out- On secondary roof CR, extend the seat cut through to the top edge. Measure the distance (a) of seat cut extension from corner of birds mouth to where it strikes top edge. Take the secondary roof common rafter run and add this dimension (a). Now times that O/A length by the hip/valley length per metre of CR run. That's to centre lines as always.
Hope that's clear. The art is dying. Great video again. With the right roofing square, every angle and length can be worked out. Speed squares are a poor mans roofing square ;)
Hi Martin
Yes, it is a dying art and while I usually develop the bevels directly or just calculate the actual angle i do still use the roofing square for the more common angles.
Thanks for your detailed comments
Great video. Right to the point. Thank you!
Thanks Mate, Glad it was helpful!
Hi, which text book do you recommend about roof construction? thanks
Hi Mate, this is probaly one of the better ones.
www.angusrobertson.com.au/books/the-roof-building-manual-lloyd-hiddle-allan-staines/p/9781875217328?gclid=CjwKCAiAgvKQBhBbEiwAaPQw3IIhcd5zqU6dIEU1xJeN-dsUi7wqx8_Tl8c2c7ZnekuZdpwS5M7I3BoC7mAQAvD_BwE
Great channel, I've been working on a few roofs now, and your detailed drawings have helped me work through onsite and not look like a complete tit! Im a trim carpenter by trade but expanding my knowledge and starting roofing. Love it thanks for the help. One question that would be greatly appreciated. Here in South France a lot of the home have decorative T&G so all the framing then T&G so internally its a open roof.... How would you support the Purlins without ceiling Joists etc? Do they need any support ?
Hi Sam, wow I never thought my videos would be useful in France, thanks for your comment. If you want to get rid of the need for Purlins, struts etc, you just need to make the rafters bigger so they can span the required distance without the need for them. Hope this helps
Scissor Struts can resolve that issue, Strutting beams as well. But as Buildsum has already mentioned for the open space created by using larger rafter sections engineer for the spans and roof pitch, often used as exposed rafters in a Cathedral design roof frame with either sheet or T&G(VJ) as an internal lining fixed to the top of the rafters/battens.
Hi, what software were you using?
Hi Mate, I use SketchUp for all my drawings.
Could you do a video on doing a lean to roof on like a house extension? So like a roof pitched against an existing wall
great video, much appreciative for the knowledge and time you've put into it
Superb...!! If not allready... you should be a Teacher Sir !
Hi Peter
I have been teaching at TAFE for 12 years.
Thanks for your kind comments
What does 600 centers mean?
Hi Mate, 600 centres means that it is 600mm from the centre of one member to the centre of the next. This is how spacing is generally mentioned so it relates to any witdth member. When we measure the spacing we generally measure 'into over' so from the edge of the first member to the same edge of the next member, this distance will be the same as the spacing e.g.600mm. Hope this helps.
@@Buildsum A great deal. Precise and clear to me now.
Some other related question. How are valley cripples ,hip cripples and jacks calculated and marked?
@@Buildsum
Precisely understood.
How are the valley cripples,hip cripples ,hip and valley jacks calculated?
Hi Mate, generally onsite nowdays they are measured in however they can be calculated.
The easiest way is to work out a factor of the plan length of the member to the true length of the member, there are plenty of online calculators that will work this out for you if you are not sure how, www.blocklayer.com/riserun.aspx,
be careful with hips as the angle of the hip is not the same as the angle of the roof.
Then you just need to work out the plan length of the member and mulitpy by the factor to get the centreline true length of the member.
Hope this makes sense,
@@Buildsum I can't visualize what u r saying here,bro. This is the only raining challenge I have with my progress towards framing.
Good Video. Is the scotch valley rafter still suitable for extensions where only 1 side of the extension ties in as a valley?
Buildsum Thanks Again. The house is an early 1950's (Sydney, Aus), so the jack rafters don't sit flush with the top of the hip rafter - they sit a good 25-30mm below, I'm guessing this is how they did it then. If I run a layboard on the hip side then I'd have to knock the top of the hip to be flush with the tops of the rafters, correct?
Makes sense. Thanks for your time and your advice, much appreciated :)
What would be the problem if the broken hip does not intersect at 45. Thanks for the video
Hi Mate
Its is either the roof members are the wrong length or your walls are not square or parallel
Hi thank you so much for the reply.
Is it a common thing if its not square as i am doing old to new. The plum ange shouldnt change but the side cut angle changed for the hip and the jacks attatching to the broken hip. The roof is all the same pitch.
Hi mate
Yes it is pretty common for things to be out of square when going from old to new. It sounds a bit odd that the edge bevel has changed maybe the old building is out of square to the new one.
Than you so much for replying. Yes we completed today the walls are pretty out. Also the main governing pitch it not equal center. So the common crown rafters are longer on one side. If you have a email i can send the pics. Its nice talking to someone with roofing knowledge as a lot of people dont go deep enough into it. This roof has 7 hips.
HI Mate
I would love to see some pictures.
buildsum@gmail.com
Great vid thanks
No problem 👍
I want hippo roof plan 🙏
Sound is muffled video is good if the client can't hear clear words from the auditor then the level of communication is bro kers
Can you join a hip rafters
Hi Mark, you must be able to however it is not metioned in AS1684, just about every other member can be joined or overlapped so the hips have to be able too be joined.
I would say that the method would have to be similar to the way the ridge can be joined.
th-cam.com/video/UR0-aClFZ1Q/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps.
So the height for the ridge where the valley meets the existing building is the same height as your true length common rafter?
+mike thompson Hi Mike Yes if you cut the common rafter for the minor (new)span and sit it in the existing roof it will give the the height of the ridge
thank you good video
Thanks, Alejandro, I'm glad you like it.