I've meant to say this many times, but now you've driven me to action. First of all, thank you for your great work. It's almost thrilling to see someone using the right tools, good technique and the right level of force (ie mostly minimal force) to disassemble, repair, renovate and reassemble machinery. The motorcycles are my favourite, but all of your videos are great. The lighting, positioning of the camera, editing, and even the jokes, raise your work far above most of the content on youtube. Your level of craftsmanship is becoming a benchmark; Ronald Finger is repairing a gpz1000rx on youtube and said something like 'this isn't an rrc restoration video' to explain why he wasn't making the thing pristine and perfect as well as making it run. My guess is that many other contributors are saying the same kind of thing. I'm ashamed to admit that I've been watching for a long while but have only just subscribed. Very ashamed. If you ever tackle a zzr1100 I will have to give you money as well. Anytime I'm talking about motorcycle renovation to someone, I recommend your videos. I rarely bother commenting on anything that's a bit off in any video, because usually the standard is low on youtube and everyone mostly knows that. But, Mr RRC, you're now so far above the flip-flop wearing hordes who reassemble, filthy worn-out motorbikes on the grit-blown floor of a tropical outhouse, that I want you to remain the best, and you've exhibited a touching humility before, so I hope you'll consider my next comments against the fact that a great many people, me included, want you to be the best, and get even better so that you're the err... bestest. There are three things in your CR250 engine rebuild that are problematic, apart from the wonky spring -- I'm not going to bother discussing the spring because I'm not sure that it makes much difference to anything. Maybe it does. I don't know. But right now, there are more important things to discuss. So.... 1. The locking taper for the generator rotor -- I think putting grease on that taper is a potentially big mistake. The woodruff key is not sufficient to stop the rotor from spinning. The taper is what locks the rotor onto the shaft; putting grease on it will reduce the locking effect, especially when it gets warm. The keyway, meanwhile, merely positions the rotor in approximately the right position for the ignition trigger coil. If the taper unlocks, you will not know about it until the ignition timing suddenly fails because the rotor has chewed the woodruff key to pieces. By that time, the debris of the key will in turn have damaged the surface of the taper, and then you'll spend a very very long time attempting to take the high spots off the crankshaft taper and the rotor's corresponding internal taper in an effort to get them to lock reliably again. Once compromised, it is very difficult to achieve the original level of integrity between these components. Save yourself this agony by unbolting the rotor now, clean all the grease off so that the locking is not compromised in any way and lock it up tight. The grease is unnecessary. It's very unlikely that the two steel surfaces will weld themselves together anyway. 2. The clutch basket. The wear grooves are very prominent on the tongues/fingers of the basket. Several other commenters have made this point. The clutch take-up will not be smooth on this bike if you leave it as it is. Another youtube contributor, G9 Garage, made a fabulous RM250 rebuild series and did a near-definitive piece on addressing the clutch basket wear. He had a milling machine though. At the very least, I suggest filing the grooves out and using a new plate to check simultaneous engagement of each hub 'tongue' with all the tabs of the plate. 3. The crankshaft. I yelped involuntarily when you hit it with a mallet. You will almost certainly have knocked your crank out of true. Hopefully not by much. But the outcome will be greater wear on the main bearings and the primary drive gears and greater vibration. The relationship between the crankpin on a pressed-up crank and the flywheels and main shafts is a delicate one. Hitting the flywheels or the shafts will minutely alter their orientation on the crankpin. The reliable way to check is to take the crank out, support the two mainshaft centres on a stand and turn them with a dial gauge on each mainbearing journal to measure the run-out. Then hit the flywheels in the right place with a mallet or put a wedge between the flywheels and hit that, to pull them into alignment. My guess is that you might prefer to hope and save all of that for next time, now that the crank is in the case. Many of us would feel the same way. Good luck with the rest of the series. Regardless of your choices, I'll enjoy seeing what you do next. Your videos make youtube a better place.
Loving all these restorations and I’m learning so much. This comment is also great but reminds me how little I know and how much there is to learn out there. I think I’ll look in to how to live forever first so I’ve got time to take it all in
@@RRCRestoration Just curious , after you replaced the clutch plates , i did not see the long centre screw , mainly used and tuned for clutch grip ,then you installed the rightside engine cover , or this model need not to use that centre long screw ? Please advise , thank you.
I'm from Germany and I've been restoring motorcycles for about 25 years. For example CR 500, RGV 250, RD 350, KX 500 and many many more. I have to say that I really like the way you work. I can identify with it. Perfect work - keep it up. What else is to be said: It is certainly a lot of work to present these videos so perfectly. Also a big compliment for that.
I know i’m a little late to the channel but i really enjoy your motorcycle restoration’s. I am a retired mechanic and motocross racer. I just love these videos!😊
Who else DESPERATELY wants to see a full restoration of the snap on tool box ? As always, quality craftsmanship and entertainment video. No other Chanel like it on TH-cam 👍
Dont know why i love engine rebuilds so much. its just so interesting to see how diffrent manufacturers build components diffrently to reach the same goal. Great job as always!
Just as amazing it is to you see reassemble the bottom end, even more amazing the Honda engineers to design the mechanical internal workings with so many small pieces all working together. Beautiful video and it was very therapeutic watching you rebuild it. THANK you for no background music too. I enjoy hear the clicking of the sockets, the seating of bushings and the soft blows of the rubber mallet. :=}
This channel is the closest thing to magic I've seen in real life - every step of the way, the tool magically appears and you know just the right thing to do. I almost didn't believe it when the connecting rod thing had to be outsourced. I'm not sure how and when you acquired these skills - this is my favorite channel to watch these days.
Just found your channel! Got to say I'm finding it hugely beneficial to my first ever restoration, a 1982 Suzuki TS125ER. Keep up the great work on these vids. the editing (and workmanship) I've seen so far is top drawer. Looking forward to watching more of your vids. Thanks for sharing your process 🙏
Awesome work as usual on your channel! One thing I noticed that you may have overlooked was the condition of the clutch basket and inner clutch hub. In the video you can clearly see notches in the basket and inner hub where the clutch discs make contact under load. It's common wear and tear on the basket and hub. When those notches get too bad though the clutch won't operate as smooth as it should. You can clean it up with a file to get a little more life out of the basket and hub. Just wanted to point that out to you in case you didn't know and it's something to keep in mind on any future engine builds you might do.
I just love the attention to detail you put into every part of your projects. I wish someone would strip my Harley Davidson down and give it the full RRC Restorations treatment.
well i must say.... and again we are not surprised at how this turned out so far its blooming brilliant! cant wait to see the full package great as always.
Another great vid. I restored and rebuilt a Yamaha 125 when I was a teenager and would love to go through the process again, about 40 years later. I keep looking at autotrader trying to find something to play with. Thanks for the inspiration, mate!
loving all the extra angles and shots, the grease brush goin back into the pot, the scooby start up/overhead exit and glossy paint filling of the cups etc. Great stuff
I watch a lot of restoration videos on here, and in my opinion, you are by far the best one I've found. The care you take with each part. The minute things you always take into account when prepping, like the little gouge mark you sanded and ground out. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have even been noticed, but you took the time to make it perfect. Fantastic job. I love your videos. Keep up the fantastic work. I can't wait until the next one.
Love those videos, great work. And with masking, tap a hammer on the edge and you will end up with clean sharp lines without the effort off cutting the tape
I'm restoring a 1987 cr125, these are awesome bikes. It's awesome to see someone doing the same stuff I have done but on a higher more skillful level, keep it up!
As a subscriber for quite a while now this video was only recommended to me today. Three days late....whilst useless crap is recommended all over my main page.
I think I counted 5 or 6 cuts of you just pouring paint and thinner into a paper cup. It's impressive the amount of effort you put into making something as mundane as pouring stuff into a cup visually interesting.
Couple of things I noted... First how good it was to keep the transmission gears assembled on their respective shafts. They were in such good shape that all they needed was a dunk together in the ultasonic cleaner. Made reassembly so much easier! Second was that awesome set of vice grips you used to keep things from turning while you tightened the nut on the shaft... COOL! And I wish I had one!
Yeah, I could have used them 30 years back when I tinkered with bikes. They look far more convenient than the random lengths of steel with stubs of nails welded on them that I used to struggle along with. :D
Thank you, yeah I never like to separate gearsets unless its totally necessary as i feel all that's going to happen is a thrust washer will be missed and the whole lot will need to be split again.
I seen one thing your missing on the water pump install. There's a anti cavitation plate that sits under the water pump cover. It wasn't there when you tore the motor down. One other suggestion. When I assemble my bottom ends I use Allen head cap screws where permissible. Those JIS Phillips heads are just terrible and prone to stripping. Your work is excellent just the same. Jeff Davison. Saginaw, Michigan. USA.
Excellent work as usual bud. The Dust coat is starting to get a nice "patina" to it. A great trick we used to play on other apprentices was to sneak up on an unsuspecting "victim " from behind and grab the two ends either side of the rear vent and pull! A very satisfying "riiiip" sound and the victim now had a coat torn clean up the back! What larks we had as apprentices, being sent to the stores for a "long wait", a can of "elbow grease" or a tin of "tartan paint".
Haha thank you im glad about it building up a nice patina i was feeling very out of place with it so new and clean looking haha. Aww man that's just pure evil but i can imagine the rip sound would have been epic! haha
Brilliant example of a proper built bottom-end. The Fairy Folk must frequent your shop quite regularly, as that case showed a fair bit of magic indeed. Warmest regards and fairest weather my thorough friend.
Finally, someone using JIS on a Japanese bike restoration, well done Sir. Maybe others I've seen did, but if so they weren't clearly marked or with that distinctive blue on. And when the right tools are cheaper than the Honda price for replacement screws there's no logic to not having them.
Este canal hace de TH-cam lo mejor para desestresarse cada ves que hay un vídeo nuevo.gracias por todo.ya era hora de que todo tu entrega y calidad sea reconocida.felicitaciones por tus 500k,este es sólo el comienzo, éxitos y bendiciones.saludos desde armenia Quindio 👍💝✌️🍻🍺
Another great video! Thank you for all your hard work, especially as it looks to me like you add twice the time to actually do your work with all the camera moves!
Great tutorial as normal on rebuilding anything you do! Very helpful for people who wish to get into the hobby. Only thing I would have done differently is two things. From 1981-87 Honda used a greasy looking black that was 50% gloss on their engines. Your black is more like the 1988-92 black with a satin sheen. The engine black is the same from 83-87. The other thing for your early 80’s engine is gasket color. Honda used a flat black engine gasket. You can take those new green color gaskets and take a sharpie too them to get that proper black color on the reveal where they stick out between the two cases. All the gaskets of all the 80’s years built were black. Or look up original non superseded part number and find on eBay or somewhere like that. I have a ton of 80’s original black gaskets for all the quads and atc’s and dirtbikes. Awesome video!
Great info thanks for leaving the comment. I would have liked black gaskets but couldn't find any but yeah that was my plan after they were trimmed down to go over them with a marker to hide them ;)
If any new viewers dont understand the reasoning behind heating up the casing and freezing the bearings. Most metals will shrink or expand depending on temperature. Some will shrink/expand more than others. Not every metal can take high temperatures though and too much heat will cause the metal to warp - A good example would be if you run your engine real hard when its low on on oil/coolant or not have enough cooling capacity to keep all the fluids at safe operating temperature and you ignore the temperature warnings on your dash. Your engine starts _'burning up'_ and engine block starts to warp and everything basically goes kaboom from there, pistons and cylinders get all torn up due to metal on metal contact because warping has pushed everything out of tolerance
You workmanship never ceases to amaze me thats going to be one beautiful bike, I had an RM 250 X the first of the full floaters and raced against the early water cooled Hondas lovely motors pulled really well low down.
Just a thought. If you need a bigger ultrasound cleaner then it's just a matter of keeping the electronic kit and making a bigger bucket for the parts. You know you can!
Great video as always 👍, and congratulations on 500k. My ocd was triggered when you tensioned 5 of the 6 clutch bolts though. Keep up the great work 👍.
Oh praise the lord....new content! Apparently the only video you have made is the lawnmower restoration..... which susan keeps recommending it to me every day.... since you uploaded it.
I'm glad you used Hylomar on the case gasket. I literally did the same job on a 4T Honda engine last week and I ummed and ahhed over using Hylomar Blue or not on the gasket. I did in the end as I didn't think it would do any hard if it wasn't needed. Anyway, it looks fantastic and good job on the repair. :)
Wow that overwork! Amazing. How the hell can you be so precise!? if I had to try for sure I would have at least twenty screws left over that I would not know where to go to put 😅
Am happy You put that casing on Your wall! in 10yrs or so that be worth a few squid£$ even in that state just for replicating the dimensions for making new parts ££$$$
I'm a bit disappointed because of two reasons: 1. The clutch basket should also be disassembled, because inside are probably already worn rubber dampers 2. I would not sand blast the engine inside. But anyhow, great job and always it's a pleasure to watch.
Your work and craftsmanship is outstanding. For me it’s like watching a surgical procedure. Well done. 👍🏼
Thank you so much :)
I've meant to say this many times, but now you've driven me to action. First of all, thank you for your great work. It's almost thrilling to see someone using the right tools, good technique and the right level of force (ie mostly minimal force) to disassemble, repair, renovate and reassemble machinery. The motorcycles are my favourite, but all of your videos are great. The lighting, positioning of the camera, editing, and even the jokes, raise your work far above most of the content on youtube.
Your level of craftsmanship is becoming a benchmark; Ronald Finger is repairing a gpz1000rx on youtube and said something like 'this isn't an rrc restoration video' to explain why he wasn't making the thing pristine and perfect as well as making it run. My guess is that many other contributors are saying the same kind of thing.
I'm ashamed to admit that I've been watching for a long while but have only just subscribed. Very ashamed. If you ever tackle a zzr1100 I will have to give you money as well. Anytime I'm talking about motorcycle renovation to someone, I recommend your videos.
I rarely bother commenting on anything that's a bit off in any video, because usually the standard is low on youtube and everyone mostly knows that. But, Mr RRC, you're now so far above the flip-flop wearing hordes who reassemble, filthy worn-out motorbikes on the grit-blown floor of a tropical outhouse, that I want you to remain the best, and you've exhibited a touching humility before, so I hope you'll consider my next comments against the fact that a great many people, me included, want you to be the best, and get even better so that you're the err... bestest.
There are three things in your CR250 engine rebuild that are problematic, apart from the wonky spring -- I'm not going to bother discussing the spring because I'm not sure that it makes much difference to anything. Maybe it does. I don't know. But right now, there are more important things to discuss. So....
1. The locking taper for the generator rotor -- I think putting grease on that taper is a potentially big mistake. The woodruff key is not sufficient to stop the rotor from spinning. The taper is what locks the rotor onto the shaft; putting grease on it will reduce the locking effect, especially when it gets warm. The keyway, meanwhile, merely positions the rotor in approximately the right position for the ignition trigger coil. If the taper unlocks, you will not know about it until the ignition timing suddenly fails because the rotor has chewed the woodruff key to pieces. By that time, the debris of the key will in turn have damaged the surface of the taper, and then you'll spend a very very long time attempting to take the high spots off the crankshaft taper and the rotor's corresponding internal taper in an effort to get them to lock reliably again. Once compromised, it is very difficult to achieve the original level of integrity between these components. Save yourself this agony by unbolting the rotor now, clean all the grease off so that the locking is not compromised in any way and lock it up tight. The grease is unnecessary. It's very unlikely that the two steel surfaces will weld themselves together anyway.
2. The clutch basket. The wear grooves are very prominent on the tongues/fingers of the basket. Several other commenters have made this point. The clutch take-up will not be smooth on this bike if you leave it as it is. Another youtube contributor, G9 Garage, made a fabulous RM250 rebuild series and did a near-definitive piece on addressing the clutch basket wear. He had a milling machine though. At the very least, I suggest filing the grooves out and using a new plate to check simultaneous engagement of each hub 'tongue' with all the tabs of the plate.
3. The crankshaft. I yelped involuntarily when you hit it with a mallet. You will almost certainly have knocked your crank out of true. Hopefully not by much. But the outcome will be greater wear on the main bearings and the primary drive gears and greater vibration. The relationship between the crankpin on a pressed-up crank and the flywheels and main shafts is a delicate one. Hitting the flywheels or the shafts will minutely alter their orientation on the crankpin. The reliable way to check is to take the crank out, support the two mainshaft centres on a stand and turn them with a dial gauge on each mainbearing journal to measure the run-out. Then hit the flywheels in the right place with a mallet or put a wedge between the flywheels and hit that, to pull them into alignment. My guess is that you might prefer to hope and save all of that for next time, now that the crank is in the case. Many of us would feel the same way.
Good luck with the rest of the series. Regardless of your choices, I'll enjoy seeing what you do next. Your videos make youtube a better place.
This is the most positive constructive "criticism" l've ever read. Cudos! 👍👍👍
Loving all these restorations and I’m learning so much. This comment is also great but reminds me how little I know and how much there is to learn out there. I think I’ll look in to how to live forever first so I’ve got time to take it all in
Congrats on 500k!! You deserve it, you have the best, most thorough, and most satisfying restorations on TH-cam as far as I’m concerned
Thank you so much for your kind comment it means so much to me :)
Absolutely true👍
@@RRCRestoration Just curious , after you replaced the clutch plates , i did not see the long centre screw , mainly used and tuned for clutch grip ,then you installed the rightside engine cover , or this model need not to use that centre long screw ? Please advise , thank you.
I'm from Germany and I've been restoring motorcycles for about 25 years. For example CR 500, RGV 250, RD 350, KX 500 and many many more. I have to say that I really like the way you work. I can identify with it. Perfect work - keep it up. What else is to be said: It is certainly a lot of work to present these videos so perfectly. Also a big compliment for that.
Thank you so much that means a lot to me :)
Absolutely loving the brown dust coat…….real old skool class……just like Ronnie Corbett four candles shop sketch……every parts man had one 👍😎
Loved the two Ronnies. Got any hose? no "o's" haha
Four candles! No fork andles! andles for forks! 😂
@@RRCRestoration Billhooks
Tears are shed all across the world whenever an RRC Restoration video comes to an end...
Lol. True love! He is good tho.
I know i’m a little late to the channel but i really enjoy your motorcycle restoration’s. I am a retired mechanic and motocross racer. I just love these videos!😊
Who else DESPERATELY wants to see a full restoration of the snap on tool box ? As always, quality craftsmanship and entertainment video. No other Chanel like it on TH-cam 👍
Dont know why i love engine rebuilds so much. its just so interesting to see how diffrent manufacturers build components diffrently to reach the same goal. Great job as always!
Im the exact same i find it very interesting to see all the different approaches to the same problems.
I'm a Perfectionist and you are Top Notch MY Friend love watching you work. BEAUTIFUL
I love the slow, methodical way you approach the rebuild. Kinda therapeutic too. Keep it up👍🏼
Thank you glad you like it :)
Just as amazing it is to you see reassemble the bottom end, even more amazing the Honda engineers to design the mechanical internal workings with so many small pieces all working together. Beautiful video and it was very therapeutic watching you rebuild it. THANK you for no background music too. I enjoy hear the clicking of the sockets, the seating of bushings and the soft blows of the rubber mallet. :=}
This channel is the closest thing to magic I've seen in real life - every step of the way, the tool magically appears and you know just the right thing to do. I almost didn't believe it when the connecting rod thing had to be outsourced. I'm not sure how and when you acquired these skills - this is my favorite channel to watch these days.
Just found your channel! Got to say I'm finding it hugely beneficial to my first ever restoration, a 1982 Suzuki TS125ER.
Keep up the great work on these vids. the editing (and workmanship) I've seen so far is top drawer.
Looking forward to watching more of your vids.
Thanks for sharing your process 🙏
Congrats to the 500k.
You're really worth it.
Cheers mate 🍻❤
Thank you so much :)
If only all aspects of my life could be restored and put together with such care!
don't you dare change.......................I learn something new every time
Glad i can pass on some of my knowledge :)
Awesome work as usual on your channel!
One thing I noticed that you may have overlooked was the condition of the clutch basket and inner clutch hub. In the video you can clearly see notches in the basket and inner hub where the clutch discs make contact under load. It's common wear and tear on the basket and hub. When those notches get too bad though the clutch won't operate as smooth as it should. You can clean it up with a file to get a little more life out of the basket and hub.
Just wanted to point that out to you in case you didn't know and it's something to keep in mind on any future engine builds you might do.
Bravo... I was mesmerized at the detail and expertise. Arigato.
I just love the attention to detail you put into every part of your projects. I wish someone would strip my Harley Davidson down and give it the full RRC Restorations treatment.
Nice to see special guest appearance by the Rex 👍
well i must say.... and again we are not surprised at how this turned out so far its blooming brilliant! cant wait to see the full package great as always.
Thank you very much :)
Thoroughly enjoyed watching this
Thank you for sharing
👌🏻
Another great vid. I restored and rebuilt a Yamaha 125 when I was a teenager and would love to go through the process again, about 40 years later. I keep looking at autotrader trying to find something to play with. Thanks for the inspiration, mate!
that explains all the storage bins. very nice
loving all the extra angles and shots, the grease brush goin back into the pot, the scooby start up/overhead exit and glossy paint filling of the cups etc. Great stuff
I watch a lot of restoration videos on here, and in my opinion, you are by far the best one I've found. The care you take with each part. The minute things you always take into account when prepping, like the little gouge mark you sanded and ground out. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have even been noticed, but you took the time to make it perfect. Fantastic job. I love your videos. Keep up the fantastic work. I can't wait until the next one.
Thank you so much for your kind comment its much appreciated :)
Love those videos, great work. And with masking, tap a hammer on the edge and you will end up with clean sharp lines without the effort off cutting the tape
You’ve bought a vapour blaster! I’m envious. Perfect for quality finishing. Thanks for the latest episode, great workmanship. 😊
Thanks for watching! :)
I'm restoring a 1987 cr125, these are awesome bikes. It's awesome to see someone doing the same stuff I have done but on a higher more skillful level, keep it up!
I was going to say, that wee ultrasonic cleaner jam packed with gears was hilarious! New one indeed!
Yup, Upgrade imminent lol
Could watch these 24/7 !!!
Mama said, Always keep your bearings, for another project.. You're really good at this stuff.. take care my friend...
Awesome work as usual! I love watching old motocross bikes being restored to showroom new.
Thank you :)
As a subscriber for quite a while now this video was only recommended to me today. Three days late....whilst useless crap is recommended all over my main page.
As far as I'm concerned, you were sent by God, to show us how it should be done !
No kidding, this is an awesome content ! Thanks for your work !
you're too kind :)
That was the most satisfying bearing install I've ever seen.
Thank you :)
Incredible content .....tools I have never seen before--Note* do a pop up tagging your kool tools names- brand and name. Bravo Supremo !!
I think I counted 5 or 6 cuts of you just pouring paint and thinner into a paper cup. It's impressive the amount of effort you put into making something as mundane as pouring stuff into a cup visually interesting.
Thank you very much I'm really glad you appreciate the effort I go to :)
This is soo hypnotising to watch
That Subaru of yours is absolutely badass❤
How satisfying was those bearings going into the case!
Couple of things I noted... First how good it was to keep the transmission gears assembled on their respective shafts. They were in such good shape that all they needed was a dunk together in the ultasonic cleaner. Made reassembly so much easier! Second was that awesome set of vice grips you used to keep things from turning while you tightened the nut on the shaft... COOL! And I wish I had one!
Yeah, I could have used them 30 years back when I tinkered with bikes. They look far more convenient than the random lengths of steel with stubs of nails welded on them that I used to struggle along with. :D
Thank you, yeah I never like to separate gearsets unless its totally necessary as i feel all that's going to happen is a thrust washer will be missed and the whole lot will need to be split again.
@@RRCRestoration that would make for a bad day...
Nice work. We need to keep old machines alive.
Just how organized you are is relaxing to watch. Love the videos.
Awesome work as always, and will look like it’s just left the factory once you’ve finished your magic!
And not a Haynes manual in sight!!! Great job!
Nice Big End - well done, Sir.
All is well with the world when RRC gets another video posted.
I really enjoy your videos, something very therapeutic about them.
I would love to see a detailed video explaining your plating process though.
Another well done repair! The motor rebuild is always one of my favorite 👌👍
I seen one thing your missing on the water pump install. There's a anti cavitation plate that sits under the water pump cover. It wasn't there when you tore the motor down.
One other suggestion. When I assemble my bottom ends I use Allen head cap screws where permissible. Those JIS Phillips heads are just terrible and prone to stripping. Your work is excellent just the same.
Jeff Davison. Saginaw, Michigan. USA.
Excellent work as usual bud. The Dust coat is starting to get a nice "patina" to it. A great trick we used to play on other apprentices was to sneak up on an unsuspecting "victim " from behind and grab the two ends either side of the rear vent and pull! A very satisfying "riiiip" sound and the victim now had a coat torn clean up the back! What larks we had as apprentices, being sent to the stores for a "long wait", a can of "elbow grease" or a tin of "tartan paint".
Haha thank you im glad about it building up a nice patina i was feeling very out of place with it so new and clean looking haha. Aww man that's just pure evil but i can imagine the rip sound would have been epic! haha
Brilliant example of a proper built bottom-end. The Fairy Folk must frequent your shop quite regularly, as that case showed a fair bit of magic indeed. Warmest regards and fairest weather my thorough friend.
Thank you so much :)
Finally, someone using JIS on a Japanese bike restoration, well done Sir. Maybe others I've seen did, but if so they weren't clearly marked or with that distinctive blue on. And when the right tools are cheaper than the Honda price for replacement screws there's no logic to not having them.
I’m about to do my first bottom end ever on a little Yamaha GT80. Thanks for the how to. I’m feeling more confident now.
Good luck.
Very nice👍👍
Este canal hace de TH-cam lo mejor para desestresarse cada ves que hay un vídeo nuevo.gracias por todo.ya era hora de que todo tu entrega y calidad sea reconocida.felicitaciones por tus 500k,este es sólo el comienzo, éxitos y bendiciones.saludos desde armenia Quindio 👍💝✌️🍻🍺
Un travail absolument magnifique ! Merci pour toutes ses vidéos.
Hypnotic, mesmerizing and simply brilliant!
Thank you :)
Always enjoy watching you put together a mechanical puzzle! Great work as always 👊
Thank you, Glad you like it :)
Amount of work u do with video editing and puting camera everywhere is amazing...
Thank you, Glad to see my efforts don't go unappreciated :)
I'm looking forward to your new video. you are very cool!
Top class workmanship and editing as always. Coming on great 👍
Thank you :)
I remember those dust coats had one when i started work in 79
Another great video! Thank you for all your hard work, especially as it looks to me like you add twice the time to actually do your work with all the camera moves!
Thanks for watching :) Ive roughly figured it out to be a 1hr job ends up taking 3 by the time you factor in all the filming and editing etc
The placing of the bearings with hot and cold was superb and incredibly pleasant. Congrats on 500k you deserve even more. Cheers mate.
Congrats on 500,000! Keep it up!! The repair on the water pump on Patreon was excellent! I suggest everyone join and check out the video.
Thank you so much, Glad you enjoyed it :)
Great tutorial as normal on rebuilding anything you do! Very helpful for people who wish to get into the hobby. Only thing I would have done differently is two things. From 1981-87 Honda used a greasy looking black that was 50% gloss on their engines. Your black is more like the 1988-92 black with a satin sheen. The engine black is the same from 83-87. The other thing for your early 80’s engine is gasket color. Honda used a flat black engine gasket. You can take those new green color gaskets and take a sharpie too them to get that proper black color on the reveal where they stick out between the two cases. All the gaskets of all the 80’s years built were black. Or look up original non superseded part number and find on eBay or somewhere like that. I have a ton of 80’s original black gaskets for all the quads and atc’s and dirtbikes. Awesome video!
Great info thanks for leaving the comment. I would have liked black gaskets but couldn't find any but yeah that was my plan after they were trimmed down to go over them with a marker to hide them ;)
Wow, that is seriously pedantic. Love it!!
Absolutely stupendous work!
If any new viewers dont understand the reasoning behind heating up the casing and freezing the bearings.
Most metals will shrink or expand depending on temperature. Some will shrink/expand more than others. Not every metal can take high temperatures though and too much heat will cause the metal to warp - A good example would be if you run your engine real hard when its low on on oil/coolant or not have enough cooling capacity to keep all the fluids at safe operating temperature and you ignore the temperature warnings on your dash. Your engine starts _'burning up'_ and engine block starts to warp and everything basically goes kaboom from there, pistons and cylinders get all torn up due to metal on metal contact because warping has pushed everything out of tolerance
One of the best chapters so far! Greetings from Colombia!
Thank you very much :)
Excellent work...thank you Teacher.
Its simply fine art.
Oh yes a very perfect Work i Love the Video your Videos and Work is amazing 👍❤️👍
You workmanship never ceases to amaze me thats going to be one beautiful bike, I had an RM 250 X the first of the full floaters and raced against the early water cooled Hondas lovely motors pulled really well low down.
Thank you so much :)
The attention to detail is second to none, as always with this content, i cannae wait for the next vid and the final build.
Thank you :)
Just a thought. If you need a bigger ultrasound cleaner then it's just a matter of keeping the electronic kit and making a bigger bucket for the parts.
You know you can!
Keep up the good work my friend.
Great video as always 👍, and congratulations on 500k. My ocd was triggered when you tensioned 5 of the 6 clutch bolts though. Keep up the great work 👍.
Great work pal.. always so relaxing to watch, Easily the best channel on YT for restorations! Keep up the great work ✌🏻
you're too kind thank you :)
Impressive how smooth the bearing install went! I always struggled with them...
Great filming and editing, thx a lot!
:-D
Awesome 👍 looking forward to the next one.
Oh praise the lord....new content! Apparently the only video you have made is the lawnmower restoration..... which susan keeps recommending it to me every day.... since you uploaded it.
Estaba deseando de ver un nuevo capítulo. Enhorabuena,!!!! Muchas gracias Maestro.
Honda engineering, so good. Consistently so
.
Great progress, this engine looks brand new!!!
Thank you :)
Love your work! From 🇨🇦
Great job. When i saw the casing going in the oven i thought you were nrxt going to promote a new channel "Baking with RRC". 🤣🤣
A 45 minute RRC episode means a relaxing morning with a cup of coffee. Brilliant work as usual and congratulations on 500k, you deserve more 👍🇦🇺
This Aussie was drinking a mug of Yorkshire Proper Strong tea while watching.....
Thank you so much, Glad you enjoyed it :)
I have been waiting! What a Good Friday lol
Hope you enjoyed it :)
Awesome craftsmanship
A huge congratulations to you for 500k subscribers!! You deserve all of that and much much more! Brilliant work every single time!
Maybe a little suggestion? Drop the Loctite into the female end of the fastener. It won't drip out and it's cleaner to install... 🙂
I'm glad you used Hylomar on the case gasket. I literally did the same job on a 4T Honda engine last week and I ummed and ahhed over using Hylomar Blue or not on the gasket. I did in the end as I didn't think it would do any hard if it wasn't needed. Anyway, it looks fantastic and good job on the repair. :)
Yeah i used to be the exact same debating whether to use it or not but 9 times out of 10 i do use it now just to play it safe lol
I love hylomar. It cured a valve cover gasket leak on my K100RS for many years and many kms...
Perfect work and clean
Wow that overwork! Amazing.
How the hell can you be so precise!? if I had to try for sure I would have at least twenty screws left over that I would not know where to go to put 😅
Thank you so much :)
You make everything looks so easy! Outstanding job!
Thank you :)
Great work ,but i wouldn't expect any less from you
Am happy You put that casing on Your wall! in 10yrs or so that be worth a few squid£$ even in that state just for replicating the dimensions for making new parts ££$$$
I'm a bit disappointed because of two reasons:
1. The clutch basket should also be disassembled, because inside are probably already worn rubber dampers
2. I would not sand blast the engine inside.
But anyhow, great job and always it's a pleasure to watch.