Install Corrugated Metal Roofing. EASY VIDEO Screw Placement +Screw Location + Overlapping Panels
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ค. 2024
- Install Corrugated Metal Roofing. Learn About Screw Placement And Overlapping The Corrugated Roofing Panels. This video covers the installation of fasteners on 7/8" Corrugated exposed fastener metal roofing panels
In this video you will learn about:
• Overlapping Corrugated Metal Roofing
• Do You Locate Fasteners In The High Or Low? Why?
• Screw Location
• Screw Line Spacing
• How Many Screws Do I Need?
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00:00 How to install corrugated metal roofing
00:43 How to overlap corrugated metal roofing panels
01:06 Corrugated metal roofing coverage
01:32 Do the screws go in the tops or bottom of corrugated metal roofing?
01:45 Why do the screws go in the high of the corrugated?
02:12 What is the screw placement on corrugated metal roofing?
02:31 What is a screw line on a metal roof?
02:41 What is the screw pattern for corrugated metal roofing?
03:19 How far apart do you put screws in metal roofing?
03:29 What is the screw line spacing corrugated metal roofing?
04:33 Screw line spacing corrugated on metal purlins
04:48 How many screws will I need on a corrugated metal roof?
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WRITTEN GUIDE - Screw Placement
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7/8" Corrugated
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How Many Screws Do I Need For Metal Roofing?
When you learning how to install corrugated metal roofing it's important to install the screws and fasteners correctly. Here some installation tips that will help you with your metal roof installation.
Screw Spacing & Screw Placement Best Practices
It can be confusing trying to figure out the correct way to screw down a metal roof. You do not know where to put the screws, how often to fasten the metal roofing panels, and then you have to figure out how many screws to purchase. Don’t worry though because we have you covered. It’s actually a really simple process and we will guide you through it step by step. Once you watch this video you will be an expert.
It is easy to determine where the screws should be located on your metal roofing panel. Every panel will have a different screw placement diagram. These will be located within the installation guide. First, we will review the screw placement for the most common metal roofing panels, starting with ⅞” corrugated.
Where To Place Screws For ⅞” Corrugated
The screw placement for ⅞” corrugated can be a little tricky. The fasteners are located in different locations for roofing and metal siding conditions. Then if that wasn’t confusing enough metal roofing manufacturers have differing opinions on the correct corrugated screw placement for a roofing condition. Hang in there and we will explain this one to you in detail.
There are two schools of thought when it comes to corrugated metal roofing screw placement. Both are correct.
Installing the metal roofing screw in the high of the corrugated panel as shown below. The advantage to this method is the screws are exposed to less water and debris. The main disadvantage is a less secure connection.
Screws that are installed in the low of the metal roofing panel will result in a more secure connection, but will be less weather tight. The screw will compress better when attached in the low and you are less likely to distort the metal roofing panel when you tighten the screw.
If the fastener is placed in the low of the panel it partially obstructs water and debris. The low of the panel is skinny and the fastener takes up most of that space. As the water drains it will go over the screw. Screws that have backed out over time or that were installed incorrectly will leak. You will avoid the bulk of this issue by installing the fastener in the high of the roofing panel.
⅞” Corrugated Screw Location For Metal Roofing
A screw line is a row of screws that is spaced at a specific distance from the next row of screws. There will be four screws per screw line placed in the high of the corrugated panel. The screws are spaced out so that every third corrugation has a screw.
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There was one thing we forgot to address in this video. It's an optional addition as the screw placement shown in the video will work fine. When you are installing the first and last sheet it's a good idea to add one extra screw in the low of the corrugated panel at both sides of the gable. It's located within the FIRST SHEET PLACEMENT OF THE LINKED VIDEO at about the five minutes and 35 second mark.
th-cam.com/video/hQM-bDFm-PE/w-d-xo.html
Here in Australia, we do not lay down that adhesive tape otherwise we install the same as this video. And these guys in this video are not predrilling holes to install the screws.
@@robertbutler8004
Hi Robert do you pre drill the sheets before you put them up on the roof?
I'm about to put my own roof on and still learning how to do it.
Also the old roof has old Decramastic metal tiles on it
And the purlins are quite small but at 260 centers.
Is it ok to screw a new corrugated onto those?
Thanks George NZ
Three words: Fantastic! Thank you!
Great video, exactly the info i was hoping to find. Thank you
Excellent advice , well presented!!
Excellent and very well made video! Thanks.
Thank you for sharing your video.
This is what I was looking for. Wonderful Explanation. Subscribed your channel. Thanks mate.
Happy to help. Good luck on your installation.
Brilliant, just what I needed for DIY job
Glad it helped. Any questions please leave a comment.
thanks for sharing
Thank you!!!!
Un saludo y gracias
Very good
wish i saw this 10 yrs ago..could have and would have avoided alot of mistakes...any vids on how to fix common mistakes//manythxs
Holy shit an engineer for screw spacing? I must be a fucking genius
How do you hit the rafters that are 16" on center? Or screwing into the decking considered adequate?
Awesome video thanks
No problem 👍
I'm making an outdoor 6 x 2 ft rabbit cage with a back-to-front-sloping corrugated sheet roofing. I am leaving an 8 inch breadth of sheet outside of the cage's frame on the top front to prevent rain and sun from getting inside the cage from the front. How much sheet should I leave in the top back to protect the cage from behind?
Good
Do screw holes need to be predrilled larger than the screw diameter to allow for expansion of each sheet?
Very good video = A+ good music
Glad we could help. Good luck with your installation.
What size screw tapping to be used?
Work measurements methods/standards for contractor billing ? What is procedure ? Is overlap area deducted from total area =no of sheetxroof sheet area ? Or total area measures as many sheet installation done ?
If you’re saying drill your screws on the high part of the corrugated roof panel, then what size screws should we be using so that screw will safely secure into the purlins?
Shouldn't the screw spacing have been determined when you derived your negative design pressure test failure reading when you performed your ASTM E1592 testing? The screw spacing should be exactly as it was during the test. Location of the screws will also be the same as the test data. Why would the customer need to employ an engineer?
Hi, an outstanding set of videos. Clear and easy to understand. I am particularly pleased to learn about the foam strip that fits between the fascia and the roof. I live in a rural location in New Zealand and have been looking for a solution to stop small birds getting into the roofspace via that open gap. Problem solved. Now to check if local building reg's allow the foam and then where to get it over here. Do you export perhaps?
Allan, I appreciate the positive feedback. We could ship the foam closures to New Zealand, but it would be expensive. Here are your two best options: A. Call a metal roofing manufacturer and if they sell to the public they will have the foam in stock. B. Call your local roofing supply center as they normally have access to this. Have a great day.
It's called profile foam in NZ. You can buy it from the roof manufacturers but it's made by ampelite or ansylite depending on your roof. It's about $5 a metre.
Side note I'm blown away by the differences in best practice between USA and NZ. One example is that we only lap our sheets one corrugation and don't use butyl tape.
@@mitchelllee7706 as a 'belt and braces' type of person I would use tape and would lap by 2 or even 3.
Can I put a metal roof over top of a rubber roof?
This is the normal roof here in nz
What is the recommended slope pitch?
I have an approximately 45 foot x 10 foot (ridge to eave) awning. If I'm looking to install western rib, is it preferable to order single 10 foot panels or, for example, a 6 foot panel and a 4'6" panel, overlapping them to prevent any unnecessary cutting with small imperfections in the awning dimension?
Derek, It's always better to NOT have an overlap if you can avoid one. We will make the panels whatever length that you need.
You seem to have missed sealing the corrugations against bats, birds, or other animals. What do you recommend that would keep the air circulation which is a benefit of the corrugations?
The metal sheets in the video - what is the distance in inches between the apex (from underneath) of the 'highs' of the sheet and the surface of the plywood substrate?
Given that measurement, what length and diameter of metal screw do you recommend?
Suppose we substitute the plywood for 1x4" timber (called 'lathing' in my corner), how long should the screws be?
Of course this didn't matter when galvanized nails were in fashion. One just pounded them in with a hammer until the caps ('umbrellas') hugged the ridge of the sheet.
Jack, The 7/8” corrugated is 7/8” high with a 2.67 pitch which is the distance from center of the high to the next high corrugation.. Yes can install on wood lathing. Would just need to make sure if not installing on a solid substrate that the wood lathing is spaced properly to carry the load of the sheeting. 2" wood screws would need to be installed into the highs of the panels.
Here is a link to a load chart
www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/docs/78-corrugated/78-Corrugated-Load-Chart.pdf
Here is a link to a screw placement video
th-cam.com/video/wMdOnxBmu0E/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps
Paul Rubio
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing Your kind response is appreciated.
Is the recommendation to fasten on the high seam for western rib also?
Derick, Western Rib has a wider low and the screws will go in the low. I have attached a screw placement diagram link.
www.cortenroofing.com/docs/pdf/western-rib-screw-placement.pdf?__hstc=187130103.a0187661f72c773f5bf5b6ae0b342094.1589055209040.1599676704423.1599681083514.216&__hssc=187130103.2.1599681083514&__hsfp=1886519386
I am a cold roll forming machin supplier in China, looking forward to communicating with you~
It seems like you could use short screws in the peaks just to hold the overlaps and nails through strips of ice and water shield in the valleys.
Are you saying nails in the low seams? If so this is a recipe for disaster as the nails do not have the rubber sealing washer and are not controllable in installation pressure.
@@barrysmith8193 I have no idea what I was saying but I've figured it out after lots of study. No nails were used!
Silly question: do you drill a hole then, if you are setting the screws on the top of the hill? Or use a jig to guide the screw? Seems like it will be difficult to get the roofing screws to drill through the metal without skipping around, if they aren’t put in the valley.
Pre-drilling the sheets is an option, but not a requirement. The screws that you use will be self drilling and when used in conjunction with a quality screw gun it will work fine fastening in the center of the high. Here's a video on pre-drilling the screws:
th-cam.com/video/RApotTZu2uE/w-d-xo.html
Ok, thanks! I’m pre drilling holes with a bit, but I only have a cordless drill. It’s just a shed roof and the shed is already old. (And I may have smashed my knuckles a couple too many times with those damn self-drilling screws.) Thanks for the tips.
i love how easy the plans are in *WoodBlueprints. Com* to understand and the step-by-step videos they have. Makes getting material really easy
Flip the panels over and drill the backside.....re-orient and you are now ridges up.....TA DA!
I have a very old garage that I'm roofing to be a chicken house. The roof is arched (slightly). Do I lay the sheets sideways for an arch? Bottom one first?
The sheets will only curve the easy way, but that might mean the water drains the wrong way. Nobody will curve a small job for you. Good luck with the project.
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing thank you
I will curve a small project. smoats@metaldt.com
Extra time playing style...
Bolt size(x)
Metal washer size(4x)
Rubber washer size(2x)
Sillicone washer size(4x)
Sillicone washer size (4x)
Shape = ?
Pressure footprint = ?
Nut and ... = ?
Brick laying alternate(matching sheets) layering with overlaps
= metal top, plastic middle
Width = canopy curvature(truck width max).
Door = framed curved
Tension = pairs of [(spring-hook-cc) + (cc-hook-tensioner)]
(Camping is OO with carabiner due-to tarp being easy to tear)
Are those panel very noise in heavy rains? Thanx
Yep.
wooden purlins?
Metal roofing is normally installed on a wood substrate or metal purlins. Usually "Cee" purlins. Here's a link:
www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/galvanized-metal-c-purlins.html
At 2.09 that screw has been over screwd the rubber should be flush not good.
Garbage the row of screws closest to the gutter should be fitted on every second corrugation to help against wind uplift.That installation would be condemned in Australia.
Had a buddy I was working with adding a corr. roof over a walkway and he kept going on about how long he'd been in construction (hard head) and he was putting the screws in the valleys I kept saying hey man that will trap debris as it had very little fall and sure enough after a few yrs. There is only one thing worse than a hard head and that's a dumb ass hard head.
He was right.
This top placement doesnt allow for metal to metal contact.
No bueno doing on the hump
@@northeastslingshot1664 it was catching debris big time I just used longer screws and put em on the high point. the issue was not much fall in the flow line plus he put caulking around and that made little dams that caught trash
@@northeastslingshot1664 Well, I guess I'll find out who's right...about 2 year ago I installed a panel by drilling in the valleys. This last weekend I had to replace the water rotted plywood underneath the corrugations due to leakage through the washered screws - not to mention the accumulation of pine needles and leaves in all the valleys. The new roof is now drilled through the peaks. I'm putting my money on the the mountain top.
I replayed the video for the background music.
Loc po
You typically lose 5 inches every time you have a overlay.
Which explains the measurement of panels
The screws in this video don't match the tin, and for this reason I'm out.
In instances in which the screws are not the same color as the tin it's done so you can see the screws better. It's hard to get a good visual with a white panel and a white screw.
Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this [ Check Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!?
@Sskyart RC. Your Mama obviously raised a cry baby.
screws go in the troughs... never the top of the corrogations......all roofers know that
Chad, I appreciate the comment. This is one of those installation methods in which both are correct installation methods. If you we're to look at the installation manuals for many different manufacturer's some would recommend the screws in the highs and some in the lows. Lows = Better attachment, but less weather-tight. Highs = More weather-tight, but lesser attachment. Also just to clarify we are only recommending this attachment method for wavy corrugated and not an exposed fastener panel such as PBR Panel, U Panel, etc.
Hi Chad. I am owner of a competing company to Western. However, one must ask the question why? Why are some on the top and some on the bottom? Why do you say all screws in corrugated go in the troughs? I may be able to help explain. Top of the corrugation allows for more ample expansion and contraction and will allow the exposed fastener to remain solid for a longer period of time, as well as remove it from the water. BUT.......and here is where it usually leaves the "roofer" behind; what does the manufacturers ASTM E1592 negative design pressure test reveal? Was the test completed with the screw in the top or the trough, what size screw, how often on center? Was an ASTM 330/331 also performed with the original test? If so, where was the screw placement during these tests? If the end user wants the panel to perform as tested, then they MUST use the exact same screw placement in order to have a UL rated roof. UL uses the original ASTM testing data to grant the UL listing of metal roof products. These tests are completed as an assembly of products, ie (how many screws, where placed, type of screw, #10 in plywood? ) #10 screws have not passed an ASTM test yet by any manufacturer in plywood, only #14. When you deviate from the tested assembly application, you now put your customer at risk of not being insurable by most home insurance companies, as well as product failure. The most aggressive insurance company to know about this is State Farm. If you install a metal roof that is not UL rated as a result of a claim, state farm will deny the second payment and your customer has every right to demand it be fixed, or not pay you. It is very important that you and all roofers become familiar with metal roof testing to insure you are installing an approved system. Western Metal Roofing recommends installation techniques commensurate with their testing. If these tests seem foreign to you, reach out to me on LinkedIn and I can help get you more resources so you can learn the "whys" of how these systems came to be. I can also familiarize you with all the current testing criteria and how it relates to specified projects as well. Before moving into manufacturing I installed roof systems as a subcontractor for the Dept of Defense, Army Corp of Engineers worldwide for 43 years. I am happy to share that knowledge and experience. smoats@metaldt.com
@@aoyinc i know it seems counter intuitive to put the screws in he troughs due to the water running there, but you have to have the screws fastened as tight to the deck as possible due to thermal expansion and contraction. when the screws are at the top of the corrugation you have to have a really long screw to hit the deck and you are giving the panel way way more room to lift as the screws back out. same with propanel. here in colorado we have to go back and tighten screws after about 5 years, then go up the next larger size after a few tightenings. i usually start with 5/16ths fat boys but many people will allways start with 1/4 inch heads so they can move up to 5/16ths fat boys. also the neoprene collars wont seal well at the top of the corrugation as it is convex rather than concave wich will seal... in some areas the panels wont have as much problems with thermal exp/cont as here where we are roofing at 7-10k feet of elevation and the temps can be 100 plus to neg 30. but mainly its the seal of the neoprene collar. sorry if i offended anyone-wasnt trying to talk smack and hope all you fellow roofers out ther have a merry christmas or what ever holidays you are celebrating this time of year
Depending on sheet type ,,all roofers know there is no one rule 😀
Going to put a galvanized steel roof on my shed. I hate this video.
Such a lame comment.
😕