@@camryuser yes it certainly is from the factory or oem replacement. I replaced one on mine and it had a metal one in there that had a bearing going bad and it scarred up the block.
@@camryuser yes it certainly is from the factory or oem replacement. I replaced one on mine and it had a metal one in there that had a bearing going bad and it scarred up the block.
Yes, The One Maine Weakness on BMW E46 is the cooling system! I´ve already Replaced The: 1- Coolant Expansion Tank 2- Replaced the OEM Water Pump With Stewart Water Pump 3- all hoses & Thermostat Housing 4- And new Radiator All At the Same Time :-) ! All are OEM Genuine Parts. Great Video! Glad you’re still making E46 videos! Thank you so much! And Thanks for all your Tricks and Tips on BMW E46 :-)
Just replaced the plastic tubes under the intake manifold on my 2001 (200K+ miles). I put this off because I was afraid to remove the intake, but watching your other video gave me confidence. And yes, the end going into head broke off. I had to use an expansion tool to pull out the piece. With the intake off I also replaced the four rubber heater hoses. You are GOLD my friend - GOLD.
Your E46 Content is GOLD!! You've already helped me replace my ccv system, power steering reservoir and lines, and some miscellaneous suspension stuff. Thank you. I really appreciate it.
One more thing to check out: the cap of the expansion tank. This thing can start to leak or (worse) it will stop releasing steam at the supposed pressure (2bar for the m54 engine). Cheap and easy replacement that should not be overlooked.
I do not think lower pressure caps do anything for the most part. Here is the thing: My experiments with the 2002 325i shows that the coolant pressure does not really ever go above about 1.25 bars. The pressure fluctuates in the 10 to 18 psi (0.69 to 1.25 bars) range during driving. The pressure is NOT regulated by the cap under normal driving conditions. The pressure fluctuates due to the micro-boiling in the cylinder head coolant passages next to the exhaust valves. This is the reason why I conclude that lower pressure caps in general are not helpful for the most part.
Absolutely your videos are the reason I just picked up a e46 330xi a few weeks ago. Had one before but got totalled a couple years ago. I just love the way they drive and handle. Bmw has lost the essence of the ultimate driving in my opinion. Everything now is just all about speed and sticking an M emblem on everything. It used to be an exclusive club now its just ordinary. Bring back the old ways of bmw for us older enthusiasts.
My e46 overheated last weekend and it looks like the thermostat packed up in the closed position resulting in so much pressure it took out the expansion tank, the radiator, and the hose between the exp tank and the thermostat, luckily the head gasket seems ok thankfully! All advice in this video is defo worth listening too.
My first time ever touching a BMW recently my coworker gave me a X3 which I gave to my sister, but before I gave it I did everything you mentioned including idler pulley, belt tensioner, front driveshaft, all four brakes and rotors, oil change, cabin air filter replacement and cleanup of all cavities that harbor dust and leaves. It took a couple of days because I'm not a mechanic but I read and attend TH-cam University.
I did everything he mentioned when buying a 2004 E46. The one big mistake I made was allowing the Shop to go with a Behr Hella Expansion Tank. (now made in China) It cracked after 1 yr. and my car overheated! Please do as Jason says replace these with a BMW OEM Expansion Tank period. I go mine from FCP Euro with a Lifetime Warranty.
Good video Jason and reminder for my next interval. This video was due for some. I've done this maintenance every 35k for peace of mind. I beat on my E46's cooling system from Cali to AZ to TX and to Vegas every month, sits at 151k. This is a must know and super easy to do for every owner with the M52TU/M54 engines. Please folks use OEM parts as he says trust me don't cheap out.
Jason speaks the truth. At the beginning of pandemic, I did replace all of this except the two hard lines under the intake manifold on our 2002 Z3 Coupe with the M54. Now I’m thinking I should go back in and remove the manifold to get these two hard lines. Cooling system should be redone every 100k miles or 10 years.
You should've mentioned the 2nd coolant temperature sensor. The one under the manifold. Because of its location it's a PITA to replace and should ALWAYS be replaced if you are changing the two hoses connected to the head of the engine.
Your videos are smashing good with info! I changed and replaced every component in the cooling system in 2020 (2003 325i). Those hoses on the engine block are typically corroded as you say. I would add for those who have the problem of a broken hose-end stuck in the engine block, there’s a great video of a z3 owner (same M54 engine) who has a hack for removing the stuck pieces. Basically - get a 3/4” tap and a 3/4” bolt. Tap the hose crud and then thread the bolt in and use elbow grease to pull the stick pieces out.
I've gone through these vids, I just fixed a stuck thermostat. I just wanna say whatever you been doing, you're lookin thin bro! Much healthier man before us. Nice work!
Thank you Jason! My hard line under the intake started to leak due to corrosion. Replaced it around 190K. Now my E39 has 212K. Very easy to replace once the intake is removed.
Hello, may I ask if the leak was bad enough to leave you stranded on the road? I was wondering if these hard lines develop sudden crack like the expansion tank or do they develop mild leak at first?
This is a really great breakdown of all the parts in the coolant system. I appreciate the order they were all put in as prioritizing was completely accurate.
Unfortunately i cannot agree with you about oem water pump breaking for plastic pieces. I have been working with M54 since 2005 and never saw one failure like that. I don't remember any cases in our local BMW communities, and yes M54 + M52TU´s are very common everyday drivers still here. In fact, all OEM original stamped pumps from 2003 for example have been in very good condition, no leaks or anything. Replaced just because of age. I always use Saleri pumps, never had zero failures with Saleri. PA659S model for M54. People dont know that lof of cheap metal impeller pumps are china production and very poor quality. Personally, i use only saleri with composite impeller. Btw. You are doing great work with videos. Thank you!
I've had 2 metal impeller pumps fail very quickly on my 99. One with a cast impeller - completely cracked off the end of the shaft and destroyed the bearing Was very lucky it didn't cause serious damage. Another stamped impeller where the seals failed very fast . This is on a manual so no fan on the pump to to cause extra stress. Usually use Graff pumps but currently running a BMW composite impeller on my 99 right now after my last Graff failed. Though I am running Graff's on my other 2 3's with no issues.
I recently replaced a water pump with the oem along with the thermostat housing, idlers and belts. Worst part of the job was trying to get the fan clutch and pulley off. Finally had to cut the impeller off and cut a flat spot on the shaft with a grinder to be able to grab it in a vice. Then put a breaker bar on the end of a crescent wrench to pop the reverse thread clutch free. Even marvel mystery oil wouldn't loosen it. After that, Jason's instructions made short work of the job. Never did figure where the cooling system let loose but no leaks now.
I would add the HVAC heater control valve located right next to the firewall. I had the hose nipple on that crack off completely on my 2002 Z3 and instantly empty out my entire coolant system. Fortunately, I just pulled in to park. Had it happen a day earlier, I would have been on the freeway, and the engine would have been fried. I like the radiator by Zionsville. It is welding artwork.
Did all of these on my X5 3.0 M54 manual. Wuhoo! The only pain was the coolant splatter was so strong because the auxiliary pump is close to the expansion tank. I couldn’t use the bleeder screw so I used the stream inside the tank to observe bubbles but I had to use towels and a face shield while bleeding.
Thank you for your thoroughness! I have done repairs to my 2001 325ci that I still can not believe I was able to accomplish. I would have to sell the car Years ago- if not for your videos! Grazie!!
It is funny that i found this video only 2 hours after it was published and it already got over 1k views plus mine, great content Jason, you have been saving our e46s since at least 2016.
Absolutely the truth - best thing if buying an e46 - take the hit and do the lot; they are getting old now. Means pulling the inlet manifold but it's not if, it's when as Jason says. Be really careful with the hoses under the manifold as they can snap where the hose enters the block making it difficult to get out. Best way is to stuff a rag into the block from the thermostat opening to prevent bits going into the tunnels. Use OEM coolant - not cheap stuff.
Hey my dude, I love your videos. I just blew the expansion tank on my e46 and you've been guiding me through replacing practically all the engine gaskets, along with the CCV while I'm at it. I was wondering if you had any suggestions for cleaning out the oil buildup in the M54 intake? It looks like you've lost a bit of weight and I'm hoping thats intentional. I really appreciate your videos and would love more on the e46, but not at the expense of your health. Take care of yourself.
Very intentional, I've been working out every day since February. My advice on the intake is to not worry about it, because even if you clean it out, it'll go right back to being that way within a week. If you hate the idea of this in the first place, you can switch to the catch can. If you want to clean it out after that, remove the intake and go at it with soap and water and a garden hose and let it dry out, but even if it's a bit wet, that won't hurt the engine -- actually it'll help it because water/steam decarbonizes engines.
@@50sKid Great advice as usual! Got a blocked cat on the right side, no exhaust out the passenger side. Got any ideas to fix it or just pull it? Thanks again and you look Very Healthy...Cali sun is sweet!
It might have been implied but I would specifically mention replacing the rubber heater hoses when replacing the hard coolant lines. Might as well since it's easy when the intake manifold is off.
"When" not "if". So true. When I went to pick up my 325i from the city, I made it two blocks before the upper radiator hose exploded. Thankfully an auto zone a few blocks away had the part in stock and a friendly old guy loaned me some tools to get me going. People, replace your cooling system. When I got the intake manifold off, all the cooling lines were cracked. Miracle of God they didn't break on the 38 mile drive home.
You rock, man. Thanks as always for sharing all your experience and knowledge with these cars. With all your DIY videos you get that anyone who's thinking to buy one of these cars decides to go for it and fix it by themselves. Greetings 50sKid. 👊🏻
Perfect timing, i took out the manifold to change ccv and vacum hoses, plugs, and doing stage 3 cooling, changing all those hoses underneath the manifold plastic and rubber ones, also might clean the injectors, debating whether i should replace the starter while im there, but not sure yet
Yup, do the starter… sooo much easier w intake manifold outa there, but still a “bear” to do, but you’re saving a lot of $ doing it yourself! AND - the best part is knowing you’ve done it right … not a tech at the stealership in a hurry to go for lunch!
Thermostat heating element is NOT for heating coolant when car is cold. It’s there to heat wax in thermostat - so ECU can electronically change thermostat opening temp depending on engine load (you can find thermostat temp map in ECU - for example in higher RPMs and/or more air flow into engine, the ECU switches the heating element, which heats the wax and that leads to keep thermostat open even in lower coolant temps, for this high rpm/high air flow into engine its only 84 degrees celsius I think). You can try it - open nr. 7 in cluster hidden menu, heat up the car to 97 deg celsius operating temp and push it hard on highway - the car immediately opens thermostat and drops the temp to like 84-86 deg celsius. Dont take it as critics, its just to inform others about how the old BMWs heated thermostat works:) Great video, as always, thank you!
Just for preventative maintenance, I replaced my water pump (Hepu) and thermostat. Should’ve stuck to a Wahler one although not caused any issues as of yet. Noticed the radiator had a leak so replaced it with a Behr/Mahle one, also Gate’s upper and lower coolant hoses and a new coolant temp sensor. Even after doing all that work, the fan wouldn’t kick in properly, at times it would seem like it’s struggling for power. It would turn on and after a fifth attempt, it would finally turn on for a couple of seconds then turn off. After the fifth or so attempt it would run full blast. When the fan doesn’t run, needle goes towards red. Could it be the fan? This might sound silly, but could it be the battery since alternator is finding it difficult to distribute power or could it just be the electrical components on the fan? As always, excellent content Jason. Keep up the great work!
Bleeding the rad after an overnight rest is crucial and even a little air in the system will cause it to run in the red. If your driving and running in the red, turn it off and coast till you stop. Let it cool down and refill with coolant before going on.
@@petepenn1 I believe I bled it well. It’s just that the electric fan doesn’t kick in some times, due to that the engine overheats. When the fan runs here and there, engine temperature remains in the sweet spot.
Yeah, learned the hard way, about this damn oring around lower hose temp. Sensor. Slammed it into the new hose without care in the world, this little bugger was leaking like crazy.
I have replaced every single component you mentioned, and I did it with your videos. I learned some things, too: be careful with the replacement radiator: it has to be one labeled for a manual trans if you have a manual-- (duh!) But it's easy to mistake because about three years ago, most companies stopped making transmission-specific radiators for E46, and they just threw in a conversion kit for auto to manual transmissions. The kit works, but the fitment is bad. An old-stock Mahle designed for a manual trans car fit like a glove. For all other parts, I bought Rein/Continental. German made, but very cheap. No problems with fitment or leaks. Oh! Except the water pump. I bought a plastic impeller unit from an Italian company because of this logic: if a metal fan breaks up, that will be the end of the engine; if a plastic fan breaks up, that's 20 dollars for a 5 liter jug of coolant for a thorough flush.
Hi I thought the m54 was a hot engine, the thermostat opens at 97° anything lower than that isn't optimal temperature? Mine seems to run too hot even after replacing everything it can hit 101° if it's stood, then it drops slightly and hovers between 96° and 100°
yep, mine just started overheating last sunday, going downhill. it was not even hot outside. so that tells me its the waterpump. it doesnt overheat at idle, but it does at highway speeds. gonna get that brand you recommended.
turns out it was the thermostat, but i replaced the water pump too anyway. just had this catastrophic leak 200 kilometers from home today. note to self: replace the expansion tank mounting plate when replacing the radiator.
99 328 - 200k + miles. I think I've had everything in that list fail at least once header tanks / water pumps multiple times. To be honest after 2 catastrophic cooling system fails - all these items I now consider service items - will replace every 7 to 8 years max no matter mileage. Luckily engine survived both times as I stopped and got a tow. Would also be #1 on my list to replace if I buy a new 3. Start with header tank / pump / thermostat at a min, and include the others if they are looking at all suspect. The tricky ones are those hard pipes, Just no way to give them a good inspection as they are hidden under the intake.
BMW used some sort of composite-plastic for the early E46's. Anything important heating up and cooling down regularly during normal use: just replace it. Oh, about that expansion-tanks, might be wise to try strengthen the corners where possible, they'll crack along fhose, top to bottom...
Got 175k miles on my 325i have yet to replace any of those but getting a feeling that I should before It’s too late. As always love watching your Got 175k miles on my 325i have yet to replace any of those but getting a feeling that I should before the car decides it’s that time now lol. As always love watching your videos!
i've a feeling that a leaking oil filter housing gasket and /or vanos oil line in the same area could be leaking oil all over those hoses that are underneath the intake manifold - if so, that would surely not be good for those hoses in particular. Also, those hoses are totally out of sight, and as someone else said, get overlooked on that basis.
DON'T MAKE THIS MISTAKE! The dealer replaced the original water pump and thermostat, as preventive maintenance, on my 2005 BMW 330ci, with the only one they could find at the time which was a German made MEYLE with metal blades, at 80k miles, but it only lasted 15 thousand miles. The bearings went out in it and since I couldn't find the plastic OEM due to the pandemic, someone suggested that I do the electric fan swap. So I bought what was suggested to be the best from fcpeuro and it worked well, I even gained a few horse power. But it only lasted until last week when my daughter borrowed my car to go out of town from where she called and said that the AC went out first and then the engine had overheated! I had it towed and the first thing I noticed was the positive wire from the electric fan was burned out to bare wires showing... the fan was out, and so was my engine!
The mechanic change my cracked coolant extension tank yesterday. He said the auto transmission oil cooler thermalstat is broken too. I think he broke it while he was removing parts. It is not like it was broken before. And he said i might be okay to run the car without it. Is it actually okay? It is so annoying everything just keep breaking.
My E46 N55 would start to run high temp after about 15 mins of driving. One day I noticed it started to climb again and my coolant expansion tank ruptured, draining all the coolant. I’ve since bought all new quick connect coolant hoses, new tank and a metal finned water pump. I have yet to install it all. Is it likely this will bring the car back to health, or is it probable that I’ve done significant damage to the head/head gasket?
Hello from Romania! Y am a huge BMW fan from my childhood when my father have e30. This year y completly restored an e46 compact and swap to 2.8 TU, last year am e36 coupe 2.8 stock..and next is e46 cabrio 3.0
The serpentine belt broke on mine at 43K miles caused by the belt tensioner bearings seizing up,BMW made a brilliant engine the M54,then used crap parts for the cooling system.What were they thinking?I've just had to replace the thermostat and housing(all one part) because it was over cooling at 52k miles,the factory fitted one looked cheap compared to the Behr one I fitted.The viscous fan was seized on unless someone used thread lock fitting it on,and yes I was turning the 32mm nut the right way because it has a left hand thread!Absolutely terrible cooling system,little surprise I'm seeing less and less of these otherwise great cars on the road.
Another thing to replace before you hit 200k is the transmission heat exchanger. It may start internally leaking and send coolant into your transmission, which doesn't end well... Have had that happen on 2 out of 3 e46s I owned. One transmission survived the ordeal and just needed several flushes, the other had to be replaced.
Jason - have you done a video on clearing the rear sunroof drains on an E83 X3 with the pano roof? I cannot seem to clear one of the rear drains and I am about to cut the drain line inside the rear hatch side panel to be able to get a trimmer sting in there to try to clear out the rear drain.
Jason, my name it Randall, Denver CO, a web designer like you. I’m a bit fan. You are my go to guy for any thing E46 related. So I have a 2005 330xi with a chronic over heating problem,. I’ve replaced everything once twice even three times to fix this, and still my car overheats. So the last time I drove across town and my car overheated, I cranked up the heater and the temperature almost immediately came back to center the way its supposed to be. Obviously I can run my heater at full temperature during the summer. An suggestions on what else I should check and replace?
Previous owner of my car had installed an aftermarket coolant temp sensor on the lower radiator hose, and it was leaking through the connector. O-Ring was fine surprisingly lol
I don't know if the cooling system parts actually fail because of the use of "plastic" or just because the owners don't do the maintenance as per schedule but instead wait for parts to fail then replace them... Some owners, especially the ones switching from japanese or US cars to german, also don't understand some of the basics of taking care of an old BMW...for example overfilling the expansion tank, using "powersteering fluid" instead of ATF, using the wrong antifreeze and so on... it seems like I am blaming the owners more than the cars :) but it is because once you do the maintenance on time and don't cheap out on parts, these cars do last forever and would never leave you stranded...
I like watching your videos, they are very useful Thank you for putting the effort to post these videos I wish you can cover everything about SMG & SSG transmission too
I have a 2002 BMW 325i and I have gone through and replaced every cooling part on this vehicle and still can’t get the fan to start on its own. I replaced the cooling fan fuse but don’t know if I’m missing something, can you help?
I changed my expansion tank at 107k miles and it started leaking again from the lid, so I took it back to the shop and the radiator was bad but it’s still leaking. Do you think I have to get my expansion tank replaced again or would it be something bigger than that?
I Replaced my radiator on a 2005 Bmw 325i , car was over heating one morning and I seen a big coolant leak , driver side, not sure what else to do the engine will crank but not start, is there a common fix?
Hey Jason, have you tried a lower pressure expansion tank cap? Supposedly, the lower pressure puts less stress on those plastic components, so they last longer.
A lower pressure cap does not help for the most part. The pressure is "regulated" by how much local micro-boiling that happens in the cooling passages next to the exhaust valves. The typical actual pressure runs 10psi to 14psi in this car, almost always less than 1 bar. The pressure cap only comes into effect in a catastrophic event when the whole system is about to blow. Exception: if you overfill the expansion tank, the pressure will run at 18 to 20 psi, so don't overfill obviously. I repeat: In all cars, the actual running pressure is not regulated by the cap. The pressure is "regulated" by how much local boiling occurs in the cylinder head, so in effect, the pressure is not regulated but does stay several psi below the rated cap pressure for the most part. Interestingly, a 2010 Honda Accord will run 4 to 14 psi all day, sometimes zero psi!!! A Genesis G70 will run 14 to 18 psi all day. Every car is different.
A lower pressure cap will do absolutely nothing on an E46 for the most part. I have run both the stock and the lower pressure cap on my 2002 325i. I have a pressure sensor hooked up to the upper radiator hose. The pressure readings are identical whether you have the stock or the lower pressure cap. That is because the pressure almost always runs several psi BELOW the pressure rating of the LOW pressure cap. The coolant pressure runs in 10-14 psi range for the most part. The pressure is NOT regulated by the cap (except when something goes wrong and all heck is about to blow up). The best preventive measures are: Replace the parts (expansion tank, etc) before they fail, and bleed the system properly (use vacuum filling system if available).
Hi Jason! Hey quick question I did a cooling system refresh hard lines under the manifold expansion chamber thermostat electric fan conversion hoses lower sensor blah blah blah bled the system properly but the engine still runs at 101°C dropping occasionally to 98 Celsius it typically ran at 96 I can’t figure this thing out any thoughts thanks hit me back when possible! Also the thermostat was OEM but from O’Reillys I’m thinking maybe it’s not exactly proper I don’t know?
Jason, you are a trooper and still helping the E46 fanatics. Thank you kindly.
Recycle bmw key
Absolutely agree
hella trooper
This man speaks the truth I have a 46s and have replaced every single thing he listed facts
Hard-core BMW guys get mad if you tell them about the cooling system, I dunno why. The water pump impeller is plastic. They deny these facts.
@@camryuser yes it certainly is from the factory or oem replacement. I replaced one on mine and it had a metal one in there that had a bearing going bad and it scarred up the block.
@@camryuser yes it certainly is from the factory or oem replacement. I replaced one on mine and it had a metal one in there that had a bearing going bad and it scarred up the block.
I have m54b25 and it is awesome car. Atemporal and so nice.
@@camryuser u pref a camry or a m54 xd
First ! Glad you’re still making E46 videos! Thank you so much!
Yes, The One Maine Weakness on BMW E46 is the cooling system!
I´ve already Replaced The:
1- Coolant Expansion Tank
2- Replaced the OEM Water Pump With Stewart Water Pump
3- all hoses & Thermostat Housing
4- And new Radiator
All At the Same Time :-) !
All are OEM Genuine Parts.
Great Video! Glad you’re still making E46 videos! Thank you so much!
And Thanks for all your Tricks and Tips on BMW E46 :-)
Just replaced the plastic tubes under the intake manifold on my 2001 (200K+ miles). I put this off because I was afraid to remove the intake, but watching your other video gave me confidence. And yes, the end going into head broke off. I had to use an expansion tool to pull out the piece. With the intake off I also replaced the four rubber heater hoses. You are GOLD my friend - GOLD.
Jason is Platinum Now!
The e46 Community would never have enough of your videos...we need more hopefully more would be coming
Exactly.
Your E46 Content is GOLD!! You've already helped me replace my ccv system, power steering reservoir and lines, and some miscellaneous suspension stuff. Thank you. I really appreciate it.
To any new E46 owners. This guy is the guru. Note all of this shit. He knows what it is about. Love the 50sKid. The Master!
One more thing to check out: the cap of the expansion tank. This thing can start to leak or (worse) it will stop releasing steam at the supposed pressure (2bar for the m54 engine). Cheap and easy replacement that should not be overlooked.
Definitely! GAS makes a great modified one.
Will also most likely save you from having to replace the expansion tank...
@@lp2565 THANK YOU!
@@lp2565 Exactly. I got one... 1.2 BAR if I remember correctly. Others also use (I think a 1.5 BAR) cap from e30, etc...
I do not think lower pressure caps do anything for the most part. Here is the thing: My experiments with the 2002 325i shows that the coolant pressure does not really ever go above about 1.25 bars. The pressure fluctuates in the 10 to 18 psi (0.69 to 1.25 bars) range during driving. The pressure is NOT regulated by the cap under normal driving conditions. The pressure fluctuates due to the micro-boiling in the cylinder head coolant passages next to the exhaust valves. This is the reason why I conclude that lower pressure caps in general are not helpful for the most part.
Great to see you back and making more videos on the E46 :-)
agreed!
Absolutely your videos are the reason I just picked up a e46 330xi a few weeks ago. Had one before but got totalled a couple years ago. I just love the way they drive and handle. Bmw has lost the essence of the ultimate driving in my opinion. Everything now is just all about speed and sticking an M emblem on everything. It used to be an exclusive club now its just ordinary. Bring back the old ways of bmw for us older enthusiasts.
My e46 overheated last weekend and it looks like the thermostat packed up in the closed position resulting in so much pressure it took out the expansion tank, the radiator, and the hose between the exp tank and the thermostat, luckily the head gasket seems ok thankfully! All advice in this video is defo worth listening too.
I would do a leak down test to be sure
The EXACT same thing happened to me just a couple days ago! The expansion tank explosion was so ferocious it was almost unbelievable!
Just do the whole cooling system like I did
My first time ever touching a BMW recently my coworker gave me a X3 which I gave to my sister, but before I gave it I did everything you mentioned including idler pulley, belt tensioner, front driveshaft, all four brakes and rotors, oil change, cabin air filter replacement and cleanup of all cavities that harbor dust and leaves. It took a couple of days because I'm not a mechanic but I read and attend TH-cam University.
Bravo Bro you're a Great Giver! Respect!
Since I've bought my 05 330CI ZHP your channel had been a GOD send. A million thank yous!
I did everything he mentioned when buying a 2004 E46. The one big mistake I made was allowing the Shop to go with a Behr Hella Expansion Tank. (now made in China) It cracked after 1 yr. and my car overheated! Please do as Jason says replace these with a BMW OEM Expansion Tank period. I go mine from FCP Euro with a Lifetime Warranty.
What about Febi Bilstein? Is that ok?
What happened to your engine after overheating? Is it still working?
@@Videos-os3ccoverheating doesn’t necessarily mean he continued to drive it
My list so far
Radiator: Mishimoto aluminum
Thermostat: Aluminum
Radiator hose: Silicone
Lower radiator hose: Silicone
Thanks for keeping the peace of mind & accurate info in the E46 community!
The calm man alive
Good video Jason and reminder for my next interval. This video was due for some. I've done this maintenance every 35k for peace of mind. I beat on my E46's cooling system from Cali to AZ to TX and to Vegas every month, sits at 151k. This is a must know and super easy to do for every owner with the M52TU/M54 engines. Please folks use OEM parts as he says trust me don't cheap out.
Jason speaks the truth. At the beginning of pandemic, I did replace all of this except the two hard lines under the intake manifold on our 2002 Z3 Coupe with the M54. Now I’m thinking I should go back in and remove the manifold to get these two hard lines. Cooling system should be redone every 100k miles or 10 years.
You should've mentioned the 2nd coolant temperature sensor. The one under the manifold. Because of its location it's a PITA to replace and should ALWAYS be replaced if you are changing the two hoses connected to the head of the engine.
Great video and a very good reminder for what is required if you want to drive around in somewhat reliable vehicle
Your videos are smashing good with info! I changed and replaced every component in the cooling system in 2020 (2003 325i). Those hoses on the engine block are typically corroded as you say.
I would add for those who have the problem of a broken hose-end stuck in the engine block, there’s a great video of a z3 owner (same M54 engine) who has a hack for removing the stuck pieces. Basically - get a 3/4” tap and a 3/4” bolt. Tap the hose crud and then thread the bolt in and use elbow grease to pull the stick pieces out.
Man you are one of the e46 youtube kings! Keep whit the videos, you are the reason for many of those cars to be on the road, you are a legend!
So True Jason has saved many E46's and us owners thousands!
I've gone through these vids, I just fixed a stuck thermostat. I just wanna say whatever you been doing, you're lookin thin bro!
Much healthier man before us. Nice work!
just purchased my first e46 and this video was super helpful thanks
Thank you Jason! My hard line under the intake started to leak due to corrosion. Replaced it around 190K. Now my E39 has 212K. Very easy to replace once the intake is removed.
Hello, may I ask if the leak was bad enough to leave you stranded on the road? I was wondering if these hard lines develop sudden crack like the expansion tank or do they develop mild leak at first?
Crucial Info Your timing is excellent. Have 3 E46's and you have been a Great teacher! THANKS for All your super shots and Editing!
Owning an e46 will be so easy knowing I have your videos to fall back on
Just wanted to say Thanks m8 ... from Australia. 1🇦🇺
I appreciate all the time you put in for others. ✌️
you're the best thing to ever happen to the BMW community.
This is a really great breakdown of all the parts in the coolant system. I appreciate the order they were all put in as prioritizing was completely accurate.
Unfortunately i cannot agree with you about oem water pump breaking for plastic pieces. I have been working with M54 since 2005 and never saw one failure like that.
I don't remember any cases in our local BMW communities, and yes M54 + M52TU´s are very common everyday drivers still here.
In fact, all OEM original stamped pumps from 2003 for example have been in very good condition, no leaks or anything. Replaced just because of age.
I always use Saleri pumps, never had zero failures with Saleri. PA659S model for M54.
People dont know that lof of cheap metal impeller pumps are china production and very poor quality. Personally, i use only saleri with composite impeller.
Btw. You are doing great work with videos. Thank you!
I've had 2 metal impeller pumps fail very quickly on my 99. One with a cast impeller - completely cracked off the end of the shaft and destroyed the bearing Was very lucky it didn't cause serious damage. Another stamped impeller where the seals failed very fast . This is on a manual so no fan on the pump to to cause extra stress.
Usually use Graff pumps but currently running a BMW composite impeller on my 99 right now after my last Graff failed. Though I am running Graff's on my other 2 3's with no issues.
I recently replaced a water pump with the oem along with the thermostat housing, idlers and belts. Worst part of the job was trying to get the fan clutch and pulley off. Finally had to cut the impeller off and cut a flat spot on the shaft with a grinder to be able to grab it in a vice. Then put a breaker bar on the end of a crescent wrench to pop the reverse thread clutch free. Even marvel mystery oil wouldn't loosen it. After that, Jason's instructions made short work of the job. Never did figure where the cooling system let loose but no leaks now.
Thank you for all of the e46 videos. You always cover repairs in a way that I can easily follow. They are so valuable when working on my 330I..
im so glad youre back!
Thanks man! Applying most of this to my E39 530i. Also replacing the torque converter next week thanks to ur vids. Did the transgo regulator already!
I would add the HVAC heater control valve located right next to the firewall. I had the hose nipple on that crack off completely on my 2002 Z3 and instantly empty out my entire coolant system. Fortunately, I just pulled in to park. Had it happen a day earlier, I would have been on the freeway, and the engine would have been fried.
I like the radiator by Zionsville. It is welding artwork.
Dude you look amazing! Hope life is treating you well!
Did all of these on my X5 3.0 M54 manual. Wuhoo!
The only pain was the coolant splatter was so strong because the auxiliary pump is close to the expansion tank. I couldn’t use the bleeder screw so I used the stream inside the tank to observe bubbles but I had to use towels and a face shield while bleeding.
Great advice. I need to replace all those items on my e46. Thanks for the reminder.
Thank you for your thoroughness! I have done repairs to my 2001 325ci that I still can not believe I was able to accomplish. I would have to sell the car Years ago- if not for your videos! Grazie!!
It is funny that i found this video only 2 hours after it was published and it already got over 1k views plus mine, great content Jason, you have been saving our e46s since at least 2016.
The guy is the E46 guru!
Absolutely the truth - best thing if buying an e46 - take the hit and do the lot; they are getting old now. Means pulling the inlet manifold but it's not if, it's when as Jason says. Be really careful with the hoses under the manifold as they can snap where the hose enters the block making it difficult to get out. Best way is to stuff a rag into the block from the thermostat opening to prevent bits going into the tunnels. Use OEM coolant - not cheap stuff.
Hey my dude, I love your videos. I just blew the expansion tank on my e46 and you've been guiding me through replacing practically all the engine gaskets, along with the CCV while I'm at it. I was wondering if you had any suggestions for cleaning out the oil buildup in the M54 intake?
It looks like you've lost a bit of weight and I'm hoping thats intentional. I really appreciate your videos and would love more on the e46, but not at the expense of your health. Take care of yourself.
Very intentional, I've been working out every day since February. My advice on the intake is to not worry about it, because even if you clean it out, it'll go right back to being that way within a week. If you hate the idea of this in the first place, you can switch to the catch can. If you want to clean it out after that, remove the intake and go at it with soap and water and a garden hose and let it dry out, but even if it's a bit wet, that won't hurt the engine -- actually it'll help it because water/steam decarbonizes engines.
@@50sKid Great advice as usual! Got a blocked cat on the right side, no exhaust out the passenger side. Got any ideas to fix it or just pull it? Thanks again and you look Very Healthy...Cali sun is sweet!
@@petepenn1 Is your exhaust flap just closed? If your cat is blocked, you need to replace it.
Love your E46 platform content
It might have been implied but I would specifically mention replacing the rubber heater hoses when replacing the hard coolant lines. Might as well since it's easy when the intake manifold is off.
Definitely
"When" not "if".
So true. When I went to pick up my 325i from the city, I made it two blocks before the upper radiator hose exploded. Thankfully an auto zone a few blocks away had the part in stock and a friendly old guy loaned me some tools to get me going.
People, replace your cooling system. When I got the intake manifold off, all the cooling lines were cracked. Miracle of God they didn't break on the 38 mile drive home.
You rock, man. Thanks as always for sharing all your experience and knowledge with these cars. With all your DIY videos you get that anyone who's thinking to buy one of these cars decides to go for it and fix it by themselves.
Greetings 50sKid. 👊🏻
Glad to see your 330i again and thank you for this video 💘
Perfect timing, i took out the manifold to change ccv and vacum hoses, plugs, and doing stage 3 cooling, changing all those hoses underneath the manifold plastic and rubber ones, also might clean the injectors, debating whether i should replace the starter while im there, but not sure yet
If the starter is old, I’d change it. I did 👍
I did. It was one of those "while you are in there" decisions. You did 90 percent of the work of getting to the starter, so why not?
Yup, do the starter… sooo much easier w intake manifold outa there, but still a “bear” to do, but you’re saving a lot of $ doing it yourself! AND - the best part is knowing you’ve done it right … not a tech at the stealership in a hurry to go for lunch!
@@JB-ex8kl Right on, peace of mind when you go it yourself!
Thermostat heating element is NOT for heating coolant when car is cold. It’s there to heat wax in thermostat - so ECU can electronically change thermostat opening temp depending on engine load (you can find thermostat temp map in ECU - for example in higher RPMs and/or more air flow into engine, the ECU switches the heating element, which heats the wax and that leads to keep thermostat open even in lower coolant temps, for this high rpm/high air flow into engine its only 84 degrees celsius I think). You can try it - open nr. 7 in cluster hidden menu, heat up the car to 97 deg celsius operating temp and push it hard on highway - the car immediately opens thermostat and drops the temp to like 84-86 deg celsius.
Dont take it as critics, its just to inform others about how the old BMWs heated thermostat works:) Great video, as always, thank you!
Nice new logo. Looks fresh!
Just for preventative maintenance, I replaced my water pump (Hepu) and thermostat. Should’ve stuck to a Wahler one although not caused any issues as of yet. Noticed the radiator had a leak so replaced it with a Behr/Mahle one, also Gate’s upper and lower coolant hoses and a new coolant temp sensor.
Even after doing all that work, the fan wouldn’t kick in properly, at times it would seem like it’s struggling for power. It would turn on and after a fifth attempt, it would finally turn on for a couple of seconds then turn off. After the fifth or so attempt it would run full blast. When the fan doesn’t run, needle goes towards red. Could it be the fan? This might sound silly, but could it be the battery since alternator is finding it difficult to distribute power or could it just be the electrical components on the fan?
As always, excellent content Jason. Keep up the great work!
Bleeding the rad after an overnight rest is crucial and even a little air in the system will cause it to run in the red. If your driving and running in the red, turn it off and coast till you stop. Let it cool down and refill with coolant before going on.
@@petepenn1 I believe I bled it well. It’s just that the electric fan doesn’t kick in some times, due to that the engine overheats. When the fan runs here and there, engine temperature remains in the sweet spot.
Great to see e46 video 😍
This guy is really a genius
Yeah, learned the hard way, about this damn oring around lower hose temp. Sensor. Slammed it into the new hose without care in the world, this little bugger was leaking like crazy.
I have replaced every single component you mentioned, and I did it with your videos. I learned some things, too: be careful with the replacement radiator: it has to be one labeled for a manual trans if you have a manual-- (duh!) But it's easy to mistake because about three years ago, most companies stopped making transmission-specific radiators for E46, and they just threw in a conversion kit for auto to manual transmissions. The kit works, but the fitment is bad. An old-stock Mahle designed for a manual trans car fit like a glove. For all other parts, I bought Rein/Continental. German made, but very cheap. No problems with fitment or leaks. Oh! Except the water pump. I bought a plastic impeller unit from an Italian company because of this logic: if a metal fan breaks up, that will be the end of the engine; if a plastic fan breaks up, that's 20 dollars for a 5 liter jug of coolant for a thorough flush.
my E46 was serviced for the waterpump hoses etc about 60k miles. my waterpump detonated I now have the metal water pump
I went full rehual for coolant system, full Mishimoto! 203k miles and still going strong lovely temps at 152- 175°f all the time! (66-79°c)
Hi
I thought the m54 was a hot engine, the thermostat opens at 97° anything lower than that isn't optimal temperature?
Mine seems to run too hot even after replacing everything it can hit 101° if it's stood, then it drops slightly and hovers between 96° and 100°
@@beltdrivetypea6534 I'm running Mishimoto's thermostat that opens at 76°C Mate
@@wannabezhp I should probably look into something like that 👍
@@beltdrivetypea6534 I actually have an extra racing thermostat by mishimoto for m54 engine incase u might be interested
@@wannabezhp I'm in UK
So I guess with delivery it would be cheaper to get one over here
yep, mine just started overheating last sunday, going downhill. it was not even hot outside. so that tells me its the waterpump. it doesnt overheat at idle, but it does at highway speeds. gonna get that brand you recommended.
turns out it was the thermostat, but i replaced the water pump too anyway. just had this catastrophic leak 200 kilometers from home today. note to self: replace the expansion tank mounting plate when replacing the radiator.
99 328 - 200k + miles. I think I've had everything in that list fail at least once header tanks / water pumps multiple times. To be honest after 2 catastrophic cooling system fails - all these items I now consider service items - will replace every 7 to 8 years max no matter mileage. Luckily engine survived both times as I stopped and got a tow.
Would also be #1 on my list to replace if I buy a new 3. Start with header tank / pump / thermostat at a min, and include the others if they are looking at all suspect. The tricky ones are those hard pipes, Just no way to give them a good inspection as they are hidden under the intake.
Thinking of doing my cooling system soon, great content!!
Same failures here with 2005 m3! Glad that’s over for now:)
BMW used some sort of composite-plastic for the early E46's. Anything important heating up and cooling down regularly during normal use: just replace it. Oh, about that expansion-tanks, might be wise to try strengthen the corners where possible, they'll crack along fhose, top to bottom...
Well said
Working on my second E46 project and agree with all points you made!
Got 175k miles on my 325i have yet to replace any of those but getting a feeling that I should before It’s too late. As always love watching your Got 175k miles on my 325i have yet to replace any of those but getting a feeling that I should before the car decides it’s that time now lol. As always love watching your videos!
i've a feeling that a leaking oil filter housing gasket and /or vanos oil line in the same area could be leaking oil all over those hoses that are underneath the intake manifold - if so, that would surely not be good for those hoses in particular. Also, those hoses are totally out of sight, and as someone else said, get overlooked on that basis.
Thank you for this and all you do Jason!
Just did an entire over haul. Radiator thermostat, water pump, et, hoses, everything
Wow youre back doing vids but youtube hasnt notified me !!!
The walking talking e46 manual himself !!
TH-cam notifications changed !!
Just replaced coolant tank water pump and thermostat. Houston is hell on coolants systems.
Love your videos ! I think we owe him some headlight covers.
i had in mind to buy one for the first time and am trying to know as much as i could befere buy, Thanks for the info.
DON'T MAKE THIS MISTAKE! The dealer replaced the original water pump and thermostat, as preventive maintenance, on my 2005 BMW 330ci, with the only one they could find at the time which was a German made MEYLE with metal blades, at 80k miles, but it only lasted 15 thousand miles. The bearings went out in it and since I couldn't find the plastic OEM due to the pandemic, someone suggested that I do the electric fan swap. So I bought what was suggested to be the best from fcpeuro and it worked well, I even gained a few horse power. But it only lasted until last week when my daughter borrowed my car to go out of town from where she called and said that the AC went out first and then the engine had overheated! I had it towed and the first thing I noticed was the positive wire from the electric fan was burned out to bare wires showing... the fan was out, and so was my engine!
The mechanic change my cracked coolant extension tank yesterday. He said the auto transmission oil cooler thermalstat is broken too. I think he broke it while he was removing parts. It is not like it was broken before. And he said i might be okay to run the car without it. Is it actually okay? It is so annoying everything just keep breaking.
Thank you Jason!!!
Thank you God of e46
Owned a 11/99 323Ci since 2011: Blown expansion tank, failed water pump bearing, leaking hose o-rings and swelling radiator.
Everything he said was correct. Just 2 weeks ago my coolant hose exploded and flung coolant everywhere
Spot on Jason!
My E46 N55 would start to run high temp after about 15 mins of driving. One day I noticed it started to climb again and my coolant expansion tank ruptured, draining all the coolant. I’ve since bought all new quick connect coolant hoses, new tank and a metal finned water pump. I have yet to install it all. Is it likely this will bring the car back to health, or is it probable that I’ve done significant damage to the head/head gasket?
Hello from Romania! Y am a huge BMW fan from my childhood when my father have e30. This year y completly restored an e46 compact and swap to 2.8 TU, last year am e36 coupe 2.8 stock..and next is e46 cabrio 3.0
The serpentine belt broke on mine at 43K miles caused by the belt tensioner bearings seizing up,BMW made a brilliant engine the M54,then used crap parts for the cooling system.What were they thinking?I've just had to replace the thermostat and housing(all one part) because it was over cooling at 52k miles,the factory fitted one looked cheap compared to the Behr one I fitted.The viscous fan was seized on unless someone used thread lock fitting it on,and yes I was turning the 32mm nut the right way because it has a left hand thread!Absolutely terrible cooling system,little surprise I'm seeing less and less of these otherwise great cars on the road.
Another thing to replace before you hit 200k is the transmission heat exchanger. It may start internally leaking and send coolant into your transmission, which doesn't end well... Have had that happen on 2 out of 3 e46s I owned. One transmission survived the ordeal and just needed several flushes, the other had to be replaced.
Ahh, not an often thought of item but I would agree with you. In fact I should do that on mine
Jason - have you done a video on clearing the rear sunroof drains on an E83 X3 with the pano roof? I cannot seem to clear one of the rear drains and I am about to cut the drain line inside the rear hatch side panel to be able to get a trimmer sting in there to try to clear out the rear drain.
Jason, my name it Randall, Denver CO, a web designer like you. I’m a bit fan. You are my go to guy for any thing E46 related. So I have a 2005 330xi with a chronic over heating problem,. I’ve replaced everything once twice even three times to fix this, and still my car overheats. So the last time I drove across town and my car overheated, I cranked up the heater and the temperature almost immediately came back to center the way its supposed to be. Obviously I can run my heater at full temperature during the summer. An suggestions on what else I should check and replace?
Previous owner of my car had installed an aftermarket coolant temp sensor on the lower radiator hose, and it was leaking through the connector. O-Ring was fine surprisingly lol
I don't know if the cooling system parts actually fail because of the use of "plastic" or just because the owners don't do the maintenance as per schedule but instead wait for parts to fail then replace them...
Some owners, especially the ones switching from japanese or US cars to german, also don't understand some of the basics of taking care of an old BMW...for example overfilling the expansion tank, using "powersteering fluid" instead of ATF, using the wrong antifreeze and so on...
it seems like I am blaming the owners more than the cars :) but it is because once you do the maintenance on time and don't cheap out on parts, these cars do last forever and would never leave you stranded...
I like watching your videos, they are very useful
Thank you for putting the effort to post these videos
I wish you can cover everything about SMG & SSG transmission too
I have a 2002 BMW 325i and I have gone through and replaced every cooling part on this vehicle and still can’t get the fan to start on its own. I replaced the cooling fan fuse but don’t know if I’m missing something, can you help?
I changed my expansion tank at 107k miles and it started leaking again from the lid, so I took it back to the shop and the radiator was bad but it’s still leaking. Do you think I have to get my expansion tank replaced again or would it be something bigger than that?
I Replaced my radiator on a 2005 Bmw 325i , car was over heating one morning and I seen a big coolant leak , driver side, not sure what else to do the engine will crank but not start, is there a common fix?
Life saver ABSOLUTELY LOVE MY CAR…dope channel
P2183 rad temp sensor calibration? Changed lower rad temp sensor twice URO and yesterday installed Hella temp sensor. Same P2183 came back again? 😞
Keep it up J!
Hey Jason, have you tried a lower pressure expansion tank cap? Supposedly, the lower pressure puts less stress on those plastic components, so they last longer.
A lower pressure cap does not help for the most part. The pressure is "regulated" by how much local micro-boiling that happens in the cooling passages next to the exhaust valves. The typical actual pressure runs 10psi to 14psi in this car, almost always less than 1 bar. The pressure cap only comes into effect in a catastrophic event when the whole system is about to blow. Exception: if you overfill the expansion tank, the pressure will run at 18 to 20 psi, so don't overfill obviously. I repeat: In all cars, the actual running pressure is not regulated by the cap. The pressure is "regulated" by how much local boiling occurs in the cylinder head, so in effect, the pressure is not regulated but does stay several psi below the rated cap pressure for the most part. Interestingly, a 2010 Honda Accord will run 4 to 14 psi all day, sometimes zero psi!!! A Genesis G70 will run 14 to 18 psi all day. Every car is different.
Lots of engines run in the same temperature range, with a much lower pressure rating on the cap.
Haven't tried it myself
A lower pressure cap will do absolutely nothing on an E46 for the most part. I have run both the stock and the lower pressure cap on my 2002 325i. I have a pressure sensor hooked up to the upper radiator hose. The pressure readings are identical whether you have the stock or the lower pressure cap. That is because the pressure almost always runs several psi BELOW the pressure rating of the LOW pressure cap. The coolant pressure runs in 10-14 psi range for the most part. The pressure is NOT regulated by the cap (except when something goes wrong and all heck is about to blow up). The best preventive measures are: Replace the parts (expansion tank, etc) before they fail, and bleed the system properly (use vacuum filling system if available).
What about radiators for the 2003 325i..looking at a used one seller said radiator was a common problem
Hi Jason! Hey quick question I did a cooling system refresh hard lines under the manifold expansion chamber thermostat electric fan conversion hoses lower sensor blah blah blah bled the system properly but the engine still runs at 101°C dropping occasionally to 98 Celsius it typically ran at 96 I can’t figure this thing out any thoughts thanks hit me back when possible! Also the thermostat was OEM but from O’Reillys I’m thinking maybe it’s not exactly proper I don’t know?
You're a good man Jason