Hi "The Old Guy". I've had a 72 GT550 sitting in the shed for about 19 years. Every year I plan on fixing it up. This year my boys have taken a shine to the idea. Its rough and I've never had her running. Bought her for $50 when I saw her sitting in a back yard covered with snow. The wiring looks to have caught fire at one point. Thanks for the vid. I'll keep you posted on the possible progress.
Hi Jimbo! I actually bought a whole wire harness off of ebay for my motorcycle. Only used a few connectors, but it was easier than trying to find those by themselves. Have Fun and Good Luck! Thanks for watching!
I think you're video helped. I bought a GS550L from a guy who said he couldn't get it to run. Looking it over it looks like he installed the same ignition system but looks like it's not wired correctly. Be nice if I had that instruction sheet so I'll look to down load it.
For anyone planning a job like this, I have a couple of things to point out: 1. As both orange/white coil +ve supply wires are spliced together, you can connect the red wire to either of them, without having to cut into the wiring harness to find the splice. 2. That type of "Scotchlok" connector is one of the worst ways to join wires in an exposed environment like a bike harness - it is virtually impossible to weatherseal it effectively, leaving the wiring likely to suffer from corrosion. My preference for that kind of splice is to strip half an inch of insulation, solder the connection and wrap it thoroughly with tape, or if possible, use self sealing heat shrink insulation.
I'm planning to install this ignition on my GS750 too, have it already received from California, and I've got misgivings on that splice connector too. I'd think to tackle it like this, get the 2 orange/white wires from the 2 coils, get them together and solder them with the red wire that comes with the kit, that would make a 3 into 1 bundle, and from there lead a separate wire to a switched 12v point (something in the vicinity, like the switch for the rear brake lamp, the black wire there carries the current, when the ignition is switched on). The white and black wire from the Dynatec kit ofcouse, can be connected to the matching black and white ones coming from the coils, that's easy to do...
@@RayCis1 The problem with doing it that way, if your wiring harness is still original, is that, although the brake light circuit and the orange/white ignition supply are both live with key on, they are supplied from different circuits. Only the orange/white goes through the kill switch, so you would be bypassing that if you did it the way you suggest. Earlier models only had a single, main fuse and later ones had 4 fuses, 1 main, 1 ignition circuit (orange/white), 1 lighting circuit (orange/red) and 1 for the rest (orange/green), but in both cases, only the orange/white passes through the kill switch
@@rickconstant6106 I have a GS750 from '79, it's got only 1 main fuse. As I see it, the 2 coils are supplied with current by 2 orange/white wires, right? Normally they get current from a wire in the harness, true? Now you want to install the Dynakit, and the coils must get current from another source, for instance the 12V switched current from the rear brake lamp. The Dyna kit's red wire must also be provided with current, the same rear brake lamp source can be used for this too, right? This new source then must supply current to the 2 coils, as well as the Dyna kit. Am I right so far? The black and the white wire from the kit to the coils can simply be connected, I gather these 2 wires carry the signal from the kit to the coils. To summarize, 1 new source must provide current to 3 things: 2 coils and the Dyna kit...right?
@@RayCis1 I don't know the Dyna kit specifically, I have a different electronic ignition system on mine, but I can't see why you need to change the supply to the coils. Why can't you simply leave the coils connected to the orange/white supply and add the red Dyna supply wire to one of these? All electronic systems work on the same simple principle, the coils and the control unit need a positive supply, and the negative side of the the coils go to ground through the control unit, triggered by the rotor, instead of the points.
Rick Constant hi. Thanks for your comment and very useful advice re: modifying and insulating (protecting) wires on a vehicle. Question: you have been chatting with someone re: a supply of current for the dyna ignition system (positive wire). Can one not simply run a positive wire from the positive terminal on battery? Thanks.
I have a 1981 Suzuki GS750E with factory electronic ignition. I find that the instructions of the Dynatek S are woefully inadequate and poorly written for my bike. That's why I'm watching this video for a bit more information. The instructions I have could have been written in Mandarin because they are that worthless.
Hi "The Old Guy". I've had a 72 GT550 sitting in the shed for about 19 years. Every year I plan on fixing it up. This year my boys have taken a shine to the idea. Its rough and I've never had her running. Bought her for $50 when I saw her sitting in a back yard covered with snow. The wiring looks to have caught fire at one point. Thanks for the vid. I'll keep you posted on the possible progress.
Hi Jimbo! I actually bought a whole wire harness off of ebay for my motorcycle. Only used a few connectors, but it was easier than trying to find those by themselves. Have Fun and Good Luck! Thanks for watching!
Love your videos ^-^
I think you're video helped. I bought a GS550L from a guy who said he couldn't get it to run. Looking it over it looks like he installed the same ignition system but looks like it's not wired correctly. Be nice if I had that instruction sheet so I'll look to down load it.
👍😎👍
For anyone planning a job like this, I have a couple of things to point out: 1. As both orange/white coil +ve supply wires are spliced together, you can connect the red wire to either of them, without having to cut into the wiring harness to find the splice. 2. That type of "Scotchlok" connector is one of the worst ways to join wires in an exposed environment like a bike harness - it is virtually impossible to weatherseal it effectively, leaving the wiring likely to suffer from corrosion. My preference for that kind of splice is to strip half an inch of insulation, solder the connection and wrap it thoroughly with tape, or if possible, use self sealing heat shrink insulation.
I'm planning to install this ignition on my GS750 too, have it already received from California, and I've got misgivings on that splice connector too. I'd think to tackle it like this, get the 2 orange/white wires from the 2 coils, get them together and solder them with the red wire that comes with the kit, that would make a 3 into 1 bundle, and from there lead a separate wire to a switched 12v point (something in the vicinity, like the switch for the rear brake lamp, the black wire there carries the current, when the ignition is switched on). The white and black wire from the Dynatec kit ofcouse, can be connected to the matching black and white ones coming from the coils, that's easy to do...
@@RayCis1 The problem with doing it that way, if your wiring harness is still original, is that, although the brake light circuit and the orange/white ignition supply are both live with key on, they are supplied from different circuits. Only the orange/white goes through the kill switch, so you would be bypassing that if you did it the way you suggest. Earlier models only had a single, main fuse and later ones had 4 fuses, 1 main, 1 ignition circuit (orange/white), 1 lighting circuit (orange/red) and 1 for the rest (orange/green), but in both cases, only the orange/white passes through the kill switch
@@rickconstant6106 I have a GS750 from '79, it's got only 1 main fuse. As I see it, the 2 coils are supplied with current by 2 orange/white wires, right? Normally they get current from a wire in the harness, true? Now you want to install the Dynakit, and the coils must get current from another source, for instance the 12V switched current from the rear brake lamp. The Dyna kit's red wire must also be provided with current, the same rear brake lamp source can be used for this too, right? This new source then must supply current to the 2 coils, as well as the Dyna kit. Am I right so far? The black and the white wire from the kit to the coils can simply be connected, I gather these 2 wires carry the signal from the kit to the coils. To summarize, 1 new source must provide current to 3 things: 2 coils and the Dyna kit...right?
@@RayCis1 I don't know the Dyna kit specifically, I have a different electronic ignition system on mine, but I can't see why you need to change the supply to the coils. Why can't you simply leave the coils connected to the orange/white supply and add the red Dyna supply wire to one of these? All electronic systems work on the same simple principle, the coils and the control unit need a positive supply, and the negative side of the the coils go to ground through the control unit, triggered by the rotor, instead of the points.
Rick Constant hi. Thanks for your comment and very useful advice re: modifying and insulating (protecting) wires on a vehicle. Question: you have been chatting with someone re: a supply of current for the dyna ignition system
(positive wire). Can one not simply run a positive wire from the positive terminal on battery? Thanks.
I have a 1981 Suzuki GS750E with factory electronic ignition. I find that the instructions of the Dynatek S are woefully inadequate and poorly written for my bike. That's why I'm watching this video for a bit more information. The instructions I have could have been written in Mandarin because they are that worthless.
Hey friend did you get this figured out? I’m installing this on a 1981 GS550 and am unsure what to do