I feel like I've been building like a caveman. Ive been cutting using cutting pliers and smoothing nubs with the cutting end and file edge of nail clippers and a scrap of 200grit sandpaper. I didn't even wash the runners or fill seam lines or paint or topcoat or anything and ive only built high grades. I am now enlightened
Boi you are not alone I had no tools when I started I just used a manicure set dad bought from russia it was complete with a nail file and a nail clippers and the kit looks fine
Definitely can't recommend cutting towards your fingers at all. Both you and vegeta8259 do this. It's safer to hold the part such that the surface you're cutting alongside is perpendicular to the cutting mat, and to keep the blade below your fingers, cutting away from them. That way, you can use the same pencil grip, but on the other side of the blade. For people that mentioned white marks after removing nubs: if your nippers leave white marks in the plastic, cut the gate further away from the part. What I do is, when removing the part from the sprue, leave as much gate on as possible. Then, using sharper nippers, I cut the rest of the nub off of the part, but I leave a small amount of nub on the part (maybe 1 mm). That gets removed with a hobby knife, metal file, or both, depending on how I feel. Once the nub is removed, if there is a white mark, the trick is to use your fingernail to press into it hard and rub. That will remove the stress mark. If that doesn't work, try sanding it down. Also, you said that you will inevitably get cut when using a hobby knife. This is not true if you use the above technique. Not getting cut is simply a matter of making a habit out of never putting yourself in a situation where the blade might cut you. Every time you start a cut you have to think to yourself, "What if I lose control and the blade slips?" the answer should always be "it'll slide harmlessly into the cutting mat." If it isn't, change the way you're holding the blade, the direction you're putting pressure in, and so on, until it is.
+John Silas he's just giving advice and his recommendations. That being said...Personally I cut both ways, both toward myself and away, I feel it's always situational and I have a very steady hand when cutting. I use my thumb to control how much pressure I'm putting on the knife, so I'm never really in danger of cutting myself.
Rodney Peters although you can get comfortable with that rule I find that the safest method is to do what you’re most comfortable with. I’ve used the Boy Scout method in the beginning which felt super awkward and after about four kits I’ve gotten large injuries on almost all of my left fingers. Cutting towards myself allows me personally to control to blade and avoid cuts.
Man I regret not watching this before. Thank you!!! Others keep using so many sandpapers with different grits and I'm not digging that method. Again thank you bro!!
Hi Zach, thanks for your effort in making all these video! appreciate it! I've happen to come across your video and your video makes me wants to do model kit again after a good 10 plus years! keep up the good work!
didn't know which video to put this but thanks to this series I have now ordered some HG gunpla and I just wanted to say thank you, ZakuAurelius for showing me that it's not as hard as I had always pictured it
Clearly 8yrs ago..and im still waching your Gunpla vlog basic steps. By now you already made far enough than basic Gunpla building. Keep on building😊 ❤❤❤🇵🇭
ANON 00 I sure you meant hand model but that probably didn’t cross your mind although being obvious but anyways nobody here claims to be a fashion model. Why are you being ignorant? Someone shouldn’t have to run the risk of damaging their skin because of the belief that superglue that is made nowadays is good for closing wounds
I still remember this gunpla kit from late 80s or early 90s. I used to ride the bus to Little Tokyo. Every 2 weekends or so to get a model kit or 2 with my childhood friends....... lol
I’m new to this and thank god found your channel! Gonna order my very first Gunpla tomorrow, the same model you built in these series! Wish me luck and you got a new sub^^
Hi dude, you know, I like your channel. In my opinion you are the best ! You're doing really interesting videos, I wish you to have more crazy ideas and cool gunpla kits, develop and don't stop
ive found that if you do have a problem cutting nubs without hurting yourself a cutting glove is a good investment. you just have to get used to it (its easier with bigger kits)
I'm glad I am not the only with superglue holding my fingers together :). Comment on side cutters, I have had many pairs of Tamiya sharps, and two pairs of God Hand cutters. I still prefer to leave a bit of nub, cause super sharp side cutters like to eat plastic if your not super careful. Putty and filler are harder to deal with than a little extra sanding.
Didn't know flags where meant to be out! Lucky me I got into your channel. Great job doing all the tutorials and reviews, new suscriber here Keep up the great gunpla work you do! :D
Great continuation of the gunpla building series man. I dunno what is with all the superglue hate on here, I've used CA to close my stabs and cuts from hobbying since '94 and I haven't died yet.
This is a great help to me.. :) was just looking for this type of video. just started getting into the hobby . have only 6 units so far :) . regarding nubs i prefer to use a nailcutter. :D easier for me to use and i wont get my finger accidentally cut if the knife slips.
When I was working on my MG Dynames it didn't let me leave nubs because all the gates were basically cone shaped forcing my snips to slide and end up being flush with the part themself.
My first Gunpla was an MG Unicorn Ver. Ka back in 2007. I cut the parts out with a nail clipper and trimmed the nub marks until they're flat. Granted, I didn't sand or polish them afterwards but I think it's just dumb luck that my first kit is almost entirely white. And of course I'm having a very very hard time cleaning the nub marks without any tools other than a nail clipper on my second kit which is (badum tssss) an MG Sinanju Ver. Ka.
Watched this for the first time. I have built miniatures and I have had good success using the blunt side of the knife to scrape away mold lines, flash, and nibs. Have you ever tried?
Hey Zaku, what grade of sandpaper are you using? I have regular sandpaper at home but i accidentally damage a part when i try to sand a nub off. i guess a soft kind of sandpaper is recommended or what?
you can't use normal sand paper - it is too coarse. Get minimum of 800 grit, 1000 or 2000 grit which is much more fine. then finish off with nail buffers
What grit sanding stick do you use for your OOB reviews? The reason I ask is because you could see sanding marks in this video, but you can easily cover them with paint. If you don’t paint a kit, what grit do you use? Thanks in advance!
I really only build RG and MG so I don't really need to watch the actual building part. But I have always just sanded on the nubs. Now I'll try using my hobby knife.
How often do you have to glue things while doing Gunpla? I have one hand and would like to try my luck at assembling, but glue and stickers make me nervous.
sometimes its more precise, and as long as you use a properly sharpened knife, and a bit of finesse , youll be fine. Im a professional cook, as well as a general knife enthusiast. Sometimes you just dont have a choice, or you must do what needs to be done to get a job done
Except with some carving techniques. Still not toward any part but the hand that is controlling the knife itself. Or a draw knife or some kinds of scorps etc... but that's getting off topic a bit much.
Usually people get 200, 600, 1000, and 2000 or some variation of that. You don’t want to use only one fine sanding material bc it’ll take forever to reduce the nub, and you don’t want to use one low grit bc it’ll leave scratches everywhere. There was a sale on galaxytoys not too long ago where I got a pack of sanding sponges for 10 bucks!
@@d4vidsu www.walmart.com/ip/Madworks-CP2-000-2mm-Model-Sanding-Sponge-Combo-Pack-2cm-x-7cm-20pc/196641651?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222223275704071&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=m&wl3=75179209959194&wl4=pla-4578778762741603&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&%20wl10=Walmart&wl12=196641651_10000000853&wl14=galactic%20toys%20madeorks%20sanding%20sponge&veh=sem Np :) here’s a link, they’re pretty small but will last a while
When I cut my pegs, I always cut so that they both (or all of them) are sloping towards the middle of the piece, or towards the other pegs, kinda like |\ /| I do this so the piece can register better. I have found that if you cut it like |\ |\ the piece can wiggle more which can make alignment issues or too loose fits
Ok! Thanks for that tip! I actually don't do it very often as I usually haven't had too many instances of needing to do it. But I'll try that way next time!
Hey! Regarding nubs, is it better to use a good quality cutter and no follow up with a knife or use something like a nail cutter then cut the nub with a quality hobby knife? I'm quite new to the hobby so yeah. Thanks
Little blood never killed anyone lol, dab some lacquer thinner, then glue and get back to work lol I always say if you don't bleed on a kit than its a dud lmao
HI I just start up build gunpla So I hope you don't mind give me some answer to my question . I was really wondering about removing nub .... When do we remove nub ? Do I have to remove nub before assemble them ? Or do have to remove nub after assemble them ? THank you in advance
I'd like to start building/painting these gunplas, I remember when I was real young in 4th grade saving my allowance to but them at Walmart for 10 bucks.Where can buy them at?
Tfw your first kit was entirely made with a box cutter. All stickers put on. Parts cut out, and nubs removed were done with a box cutter. I cut my fingers like 3,4 times
Hi, do you have any solutions for loose joints? I have a mg aile strike and the joints for the waist and arm would bend because of the weight when i fix the backpack and shield. TIA!
Hey! You could try taking it apart, putting some glue on the peg, wait for it to dry fully, then plug it back in. Should be tighter, but just be careful if it's too tight it could break the peg off.
@@ZakuAurelius oh I know, but I was having a tough time finding sanding sticks. Anytime I search em up, sanding paper pops up so I had to ask. Thank you for letting me know though man
I don't know about others, and I'm no expert on the matter, but I think doing a test fit of all the parts is very important before painting. There are quick modifications you can make to your kit to ensure easy disassembly as well. Assembling before painting will also show you where you'll need to weld seamlines.
MansuDC2 He's right. It's pretty important to do a test fit first. That way you can understand the kit better, know where problem areas will be, where paint might need special attention, seam lines, etc. And like he said, quick mods like cutting the pegs a bit is easy enough to help disassemble easier!
I just wanna ask. After you used a sanding stick it will leave a mark to the piece like some scratches. Will you be able to remove that? Coz im not painting it..
im an intermidiate gunpla builer, and im not used to using knives. i have an Awesome X acto knife, but scared and not really in to using it. i just cut the gate close to the part, then sand it.
Well its worth trying. Now i just cut the gate a little close and leaving some behind, and scraping off the extra with the knife. Its really REALLY smooth
So i saw that when you were sanding, there was alot of rough spots from sanding, what grit is good to use in smoothing it all out and can i sand it down without cement or glue so it looks cleaner? thanks for your time.
You can go finer with the sanding, 1200 or 2000 grit. Then if you still want it cleaner you can use a polishing agent. But if you're painting then you really shouldn't need that.
+Adam D search for Tamiya Polisher, something like that and you should be able to find some. In a tune like putty. I've never used it but it seems handy for such a task
I love Gundams and want to have more detailed builds. I am starting to use a Gundam marker but due to medical condition my hands shake all the time. Any tips for someone like me who want to make adding detail a bit easier?
Try Acrylic paint bro..,mix it with water..,does'nt have to be that much..,then just dap it on the lines with a pointed brush..,Acrylic paints can be easily removed,but the ones that went in the lines would'nt come off since they are tiny and deep,but then again you would'nt have to be too careful when putting the lines in since it's very easy to clean.
+Nicolas Beleski It can be hard sometimes, and you'll probably break a peg occasionally, but you'll get used to it. You can cut the pegs a bit to make dis-assembly easier, and a broken peg is an easy fix. It's always good to assemble first so you have a good grasp on how things go together, which surfaces show and which don't show, etc.
Yeah I was thinking agout this! Assembling it first is probably the best way to figure how everything fit together and will probably help with the sanding and painting. I wish to thank you for your videos , they are really helpful. I got a couple of kits on my way and I was thinking just about assemblying them, but thanks to your videos (and a few others channels) I am really inclined to go the full way and make them look good :)
I have a question: I just started collecting Gundam (My first one is a RG Wing Gundam EW) and I was wondering how often should I buy a gundam? Monthly or Bi-monthly?
That can't be answered objectively, it's all your personal and financial preference. If you seriously enjoy gunpla building, do as much as your budget and heart can take :)
Hi I have a question about how to deal with the white stuff after you sanding, I had been use the sand paper to remove nub but after that leave the white stuff and scratch that you can't remove unless you piant the kit. Can you tell me how to deal with those problems?
Just have to be very careful, especially while cutting the part from the runner. Leave plenty of nub. Then remove the nub carefully, don't try hacking it off all in one go with the knife. If you plan to paint, stress marks don't matter too much as long as there's not actually an indentation in the plastic.
If you're not painting your gunpla, after sanding it like that, can you remove those sanding marks completely by sanding the parts again with 2000 grit sanding paper? And is 1500 sanding paper enough to remove the nub after you used the crafting knife? Sorry for the long question, Im a noob here and I only use crafting knife to remove nubs. Wanna try it with sanding paper if its better ^^
+Green Orange 1500 grit sandpaper and a knife should work perfectly fine for nubs. That sandpaper is pretty fine so it will take a bit longer though. if you want the plastic to return to being shiny plastic after sanding (if you aren't gonna paint) then you could try a polishing abrasive, and/or topcoat.
Hey Zak. I noticed you apply force from a distance using your sandsticks, using it as leverage, and not directly on top of the part. Also, you could see your sandstick already slightly bent. That may lead to uneven surfaces when sanding. Imagine trying to flatten something, but doing it from a distance via a 'lever.' Pretty hard right? Now those uneven surfaces may not be visible to the naked eye, but under a magnifier you'd notice it and I don't know with you, but seeing it makes me cringe and drop to my knees and cry myself to sleep (I'm a cursed sucker for nub removal perfection LOL). You might wanna try sanding with parts with your force applied directly on top. That way the said surface may get even distribution of force. Hope this helps a little. Anyway, good job on this series. If I were new to gunpla, your tutorials are definitely my first stop for tips. Best of luck mate. PS: You kinda look like Ryan Gosling especially with those 'nerdy' glasses. XD
hi i am a painter character maker and i want to experience every type of art forms and gunpla is awesome but they are too expensive but still i will buy it but is hobby knife important and can we do with a house knife
No~ It's important to build it first so you know how everything goes together. That way you won't make any mistakes when you go to paint (missing some small areas that you didn't think would show but actually they do, etc). It also helps to find areas where you want to make any modifications or find seam lines you'll need to fix, etc!
Yeah you can certainly paint entirely by hand brushing! Some people do that. It's maybe a little more difficult to do well, but you can get great results! Usually painting with acrylics works best for that.
Drake Unkno for plastics that get stress marks (white mark) easily, try leaving a bit of a nub when you cut so u can sand it off- usually sanding prevents stress marks from showing up. Basically do what he does after 12:50.
I just bought a mg seven sword which is my first attempt at this, is it absolutely necessary to sand it after using the hobby knife I don't intend to paint it
+Ali Abbas Technically, yes you should sand every nub. Honestly, I don't always sand. Nubs that are on the inside or hidden obviously don't matter as much. They should still be removed so the pieces fit properly, but they don't need to be so perfect. On the outside, once you've got pretty good with a knife, then sometimes that can be enough and you might not need to sand. But to be sure, the more sanding the better!
+ZakuAurelius actually i am in philadelphia,and i did try to look around from stores and ebay too,the closest box just like you its from tamiya jr 4wd pro racer box. Any advice bro?i want it just like you.thx
nezach18 Some hand nail files for sanding nails have more than one type of sanding grid. Some times have a buffer part to use after finish is what bring shine to your nails. GL
I feel like I've been building like a caveman. Ive been cutting using cutting pliers and smoothing nubs with the cutting end and file edge of nail clippers and a scrap of 200grit sandpaper. I didn't even wash the runners or fill seam lines or paint or topcoat or anything and ive only built high grades. I am now enlightened
We are exactly doing the same thing
Same
I just use nail clippers. For panel lining, nothing a black Sharpie and an eraser can't do.
Boi you are not alone I had no tools when I started I just used a manicure set dad bought from russia it was complete with a nail file and a nail clippers and the kit looks fine
Boi try cutting with your B A R E hands
you dont have to excuse everything you do. Just roll and have fun!
It's the Internet man! People are waiting to jump on anything they can possibly criticize!
fuck them.
+ZakuAurelius where do u get the sanding sticks
I buy them online, usually from HLJ
For my first two models i just ripped the pieces out of the runner, with my hands, i am so lucky nothing broke.
I never knew about the flags on the end of sharp parts. I noticed a bunch on my completed models. good to know
Definitely can't recommend cutting towards your fingers at all. Both you and vegeta8259 do this.
It's safer to hold the part such that the surface you're cutting alongside is perpendicular to the cutting mat, and to keep the blade below your fingers, cutting away from them. That way, you can use the same pencil grip, but on the other side of the blade.
For people that mentioned white marks after removing nubs: if your nippers leave white marks in the plastic, cut the gate further away from the part. What I do is, when removing the part from the sprue, leave as much gate on as possible. Then, using sharper nippers, I cut the rest of the nub off of the part, but I leave a small amount of nub on the part (maybe 1 mm). That gets removed with a hobby knife, metal file, or both, depending on how I feel. Once the nub is removed, if there is a white mark, the trick is to use your fingernail to press into it hard and rub. That will remove the stress mark. If that doesn't work, try sanding it down.
Also, you said that you will inevitably get cut when using a hobby knife. This is not true if you use the above technique. Not getting cut is simply a matter of making a habit out of never putting yourself in a situation where the blade might cut you. Every time you start a cut you have to think to yourself, "What if I lose control and the blade slips?" the answer should always be "it'll slide harmlessly into the cutting mat." If it isn't, change the way you're holding the blade, the direction you're putting pressure in, and so on, until it is.
vgambit he said do it in your own way.......
+John Silas he's just giving advice and his recommendations.
That being said...Personally I cut both ways, both toward myself and away, I feel it's always situational and I have a very steady hand when cutting. I use my thumb to control how much pressure I'm putting on the knife, so I'm never really in danger of cutting myself.
Or you could just put your finger under the part your cutting and the knife will miss your finger.
Cutting towards gives me better control and I don't hack at it like Jason Voorhees...
Just got my 1st kit as a Christmas gift and your videos are super useful! Thanks for making these!
Your cutting habits make me nervous.
Me too. At 5:23 he says cuts are inevitable! That should never be the case. Just be safe and follow the Boy Scout rule: never cut towards yourself.
lol yea I was gonna say the same thing, cut away from the fingers lol. I was stressing out everytime he cut =p
Pussy
Rodney Peters although you can get comfortable with that rule I find that the safest method is to do what you’re most comfortable with. I’ve used the Boy Scout method in the beginning which felt super awkward and after about four kits I’ve gotten large injuries on almost all of my left fingers. Cutting towards myself allows me personally to control to blade and avoid cuts.
Lt. Furno I am the opposite
Man I regret not watching this before. Thank you!!! Others keep using so many sandpapers with different grits and I'm not digging that method. Again thank you bro!!
I once rubbed my finger on a piece to see if there was a nub, and there was one, and by time I found that out, I also found out it cut me.
rip
Oof
Hi Zach, thanks for your effort in making all these video! appreciate it! I've happen to come across your video and your video makes me wants to do model kit again after a good 10 plus years! keep up the good work!
you're welcome
didn't know which video to put this but thanks to this series I have now ordered some HG gunpla and I just wanted to say thank you, ZakuAurelius for showing me that it's not as hard as I had always pictured it
Do you still build gunpla and did you have a good experience with high grades :D
@@jzeon1 I have made two HGs and other then some trouble with really small decals I had a pleasant experience
Clearly 8yrs ago..and im still waching your Gunpla vlog basic steps. By now you already made far enough than basic Gunpla building. Keep on building😊 ❤❤❤🇵🇭
Thank you!
It's good knife use to cut away from your body. But if you do get a cut superglue is nice because keeping wounds closed was it's original purpose.
Sigvulcanas DONT DO THAT, that’ll damage your skin
ANON 00 I sure you meant hand model but that probably didn’t cross your mind although being obvious but anyways nobody here claims to be a fashion model. Why are you being ignorant? Someone shouldn’t have to run the risk of damaging their skin because of the belief that superglue that is made nowadays is good for closing wounds
just got the rx 78 2 in post, first ever gundam. Going to make it later to figure out how they work , ready for my airbrush and compressor to arrive
I have been watching your vids for a week now. This is very helpfull for a beginner like me! Thanx a lot man keep up the good work :)
Thx so much for the help on gundam I don’t know why but I ordered 3 HG kits and 1 SD kit
Zaku: I don't want to bore you guys by assembling every single piece.
Me: Joke's on you, I'm into that shit.
Little did I know that years later, quickly edited videos of snapping together kits would be a smash hit 🤦♂️
I still remember this gunpla kit from late 80s or early 90s. I used to ride the bus to Little Tokyo. Every 2 weekends or so to get a model kit or 2 with my childhood friends....... lol
I’m new to this and thank god found your channel! Gonna order my very first Gunpla tomorrow, the same model you built in these series! Wish me luck and you got a new sub^^
Lt.Miller I ordered my first Gunpla today! Cheers to being nubs my guy
I bought my first 2 or 3 days ago, RX-0 Unicorn Gundam 02 Banshee Destroy Mode
Hi dude, you know, I like your channel. In my opinion you are the best ! You're doing really interesting videos, I wish you to have more crazy ideas and cool gunpla kits, develop and don't stop
ive found that if you do have a problem cutting nubs without hurting yourself a cutting glove is a good investment. you just have to get used to it (its easier with bigger kits)
Not a bad idea! I'm just too far gone to get used to it! Haha, can't teach an old dog new tricks, right?
You know you're a modellist when you apply superglue on yourself
BOI 😂😂
Superglue original application was actually for first aid kit during world war where it's used to close wounds as temporary solution.
You get that nice feeling when you pull the super glue off your skin.
@@Suesserto_000 tried that with normal glue when i was a kid, it felt good.
he has become the one thing he's sworn to create
I'm glad I am not the only with superglue holding my fingers together :). Comment on side cutters, I have had many pairs of Tamiya sharps, and two pairs of God Hand cutters. I still prefer to leave a bit of nub, cause super sharp side cutters like to eat plastic if your not super careful. Putty and filler are harder to deal with than a little extra sanding.
Yep! Totally agree! But we'll cover putty anyway in an upcoming video, cause there's seam lines to deal with!
Love the series. Very good tutorial!
Didn't know flags where meant to be out! Lucky me I got into your channel.
Great job doing all the tutorials and reviews, new suscriber here
Keep up the great gunpla work you do! :D
that noise at 13:21
sand paper of death
It happened just as I read this 😅
A little bit late but I'm gonna build my first Gundam nextweek. Awesome video by the way. Keep it up bro.
Thank you for your amazing work, much appreciated
I will build my first gunpla in 10 days (Gundam local type)
Great continuation of the gunpla building series man. I dunno what is with all the superglue hate on here, I've used CA to close my stabs and cuts from hobbying since '94 and I haven't died yet.
That's right! And thank you!
8:27 - Now I feel like like a Gunpla god xD
Thanks for posting these build videos
You're welcome! I hope you can find something helpful!
A really good info and tutorial! Keep iti up mate!
Thumbs up!
One question I have, if I don't intend to paint it, will sanding down a nub potentially discolor the plastic? If so are there any safe alternatives?
Try a Xacto number 10 blade, it seems to be easier to use than a number 11 blade.
Super thank you for your help with this video and tutorial 👌I can learn something with the video
This is a great help to me.. :) was just looking for this type of video. just started getting into the hobby . have only 6 units so far :) . regarding nubs i prefer to use a nailcutter. :D easier for me to use and i wont get my finger accidentally cut if the knife slips.
When I was working on my MG Dynames it didn't let me leave nubs because all the gates were basically cone shaped forcing my snips to slide and end up being flush with the part themself.
My first Gunpla was an MG Unicorn Ver. Ka back in 2007. I cut the parts out with a nail clipper and trimmed the nub marks until they're flat. Granted, I didn't sand or polish them afterwards but I think it's just dumb luck that my first kit is almost entirely white.
And of course I'm having a very very hard time cleaning the nub marks without any tools other than a nail clipper on my second kit which is (badum tssss) an MG Sinanju Ver. Ka.
tq for your video zak,really make me want to involve in this hobby
Watched this for the first time. I have built miniatures and I have had good success using the blunt side of the knife to scrape away mold lines, flash, and nibs. Have you ever tried?
Yep, that works!
@@ZakuAurelius I have noticed that it should not leave the marks you described and eliminate the possibility of creating divets on the model.
Thank you for your video; kindly asking if using a rotary tool will be fine on plastic kits to remove nubs? Advice appreciated. Thank you.
Hey Zaku, what grade of sandpaper are you using? I have regular sandpaper at home but i accidentally damage a part when i try to sand a nub off. i guess a soft kind of sandpaper is recommended or what?
you can't use normal sand paper - it is too coarse. Get minimum of 800 grit, 1000 or 2000 grit which is much more fine. then finish off with nail buffers
Ahem2002 thanks(;
What grit sanding stick do you use for your OOB reviews? The reason I ask is because you could see sanding marks in this video, but you can easily cover them with paint. If you don’t paint a kit, what grit do you use? Thanks in advance!
What if you want a straight build and dont plan on painting?
I really only build RG and MG so I don't really need to watch the actual building part. But I have always just sanded on the nubs. Now I'll try using my hobby knife.
How often do you have to glue things while doing Gunpla? I have one hand and would like to try my luck at assembling, but glue and stickers make me nervous.
CoolXer0 I usually just glue the things that fall off more than 6 times while tapping them
Pro tip, when using any sort of blades, never cut in the direction towards you.
No it's just common sense
The_KAZ3 first lesson i got 28 years ago when i was becoming a chef.
sometimes its more precise, and as long as you use a properly sharpened knife, and a bit of finesse , youll be fine. Im a professional cook, as well as a general knife enthusiast. Sometimes you just dont have a choice, or you must do what needs to be done to get a job done
Except with some carving techniques. Still not toward any part but the hand that is controlling the knife itself. Or a draw knife or some kinds of scorps etc... but that's getting off topic a bit much.
It's a small knife, not a chain saw.
i need help. do i really need different sanding stick/papers grit sizes or just one for the nub marks? if one what size should it be?
Usually people get 200, 600, 1000, and 2000 or some variation of that. You don’t want to use only one fine sanding material bc it’ll take forever to reduce the nub, and you don’t want to use one low grit bc it’ll leave scratches everywhere. There was a sale on galaxytoys not too long ago where I got a pack of sanding sponges for 10 bucks!
@@lyji thanks for the info
@@d4vidsu www.walmart.com/ip/Madworks-CP2-000-2mm-Model-Sanding-Sponge-Combo-Pack-2cm-x-7cm-20pc/196641651?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222223275704071&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=m&wl3=75179209959194&wl4=pla-4578778762741603&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&%20wl10=Walmart&wl12=196641651_10000000853&wl14=galactic%20toys%20madeorks%20sanding%20sponge&veh=sem
Np :) here’s a link, they’re pretty small but will last a while
When I cut my pegs, I always cut so that they both (or all of them) are sloping towards the middle of the piece, or towards the other pegs, kinda like |\ /| I do this so the piece can register better. I have found that if you cut it like |\ |\ the piece can wiggle more which can make alignment issues or too loose fits
Ok! Thanks for that tip! I actually don't do it very often as I usually haven't had too many instances of needing to do it. But I'll try that way next time!
You got good knife control :)
Thank you sir showing me how to properly work on a gundam. I was doing all wrong.
I just rotate polycaps
Maynard Arvin Villalobos same
Same
Yeah for non-cosmetic parts I just end up rotating.
Jfc
damnnn using superglue for wounds....
+Srezron Ezio It's one of the standard uses for super glue.
I use newskin. Basically superglue with antiseptic and its fexible
what grit sandpaper are you using for most of your build? Is it like an 800? 1000?
what grid is that sanding stick?
George L grit
Hey! Regarding nubs, is it better to use a good quality cutter and no follow up with a knife or use something like a nail cutter then cut the nub with a quality hobby knife? I'm quite new to the hobby so yeah. Thanks
+cornman25 Always better to follow up with a knife and/or sanding, no matter how good your cut is from the runner.
+ZakuAurelius Alright. Thanks man!
Which side cutters do you think are the best?
Little blood never killed anyone lol, dab some lacquer thinner, then glue and get back to work lol
I always say if you don't bleed on a kit than its a dud lmao
haha, thinner?! Never done that! But yeah, plenty of kits have my blood sealed to them, call it something like a signature ;)
There's a superstition that when your blood is mixed with your creation it will bond to you.
Yes but over time you will begin to lose feelings in your fingers because of the cuts. And if you have diabetes or something else it isn't safe.
dude, that knife work is so freaking scary.
What about pieces that you can't use nippers on because the the gate is so close to a point?
Is there any other way to get rid of the nub stress marks besides painting it??
HI I just start up build gunpla
So I hope you don't mind give me some answer to my question .
I was really wondering about removing nub ....
When do we remove nub ?
Do I have to remove nub before assemble them ?
Or do have to remove nub after assemble them ?
THank you in advance
Remove nubs just after cutting the parts from the runners!
Where did you get the sand stick? And what grit?
I'd like to start building/painting these gunplas, I remember when I was real young in 4th grade saving my allowance to but them at Walmart for 10 bucks.Where can buy them at?
Which grain of sanding paper stick do you use
Tfw your first kit was entirely made with a box cutter. All stickers put on. Parts cut out, and nubs removed were done with a box cutter. I cut my fingers like 3,4 times
I just twist off the PC parts with my fingers
Me too
Glad I'm not alone
My nippers arent sharp enough to cut the material or at least some residual material wont yield, twisting is also very satisfying.
Yeah, it’s so much easier than using a knive LOL :))
I use my fingers to.
where is the best place to buy kits in the uk ? idont have any hobby shops near by so i was thinking best place to buy online ?
That would be a good question for Simon at GundamUK!
+callum booker I am in the US, and although I have a shop a few miles from me, I used to go to HobbyLink Japan. Just google it. Amazing selection.
i just want to ask if you can use mr.super clear gloss then tamiya panel line and decals then use mr. hobby flat top coat?
Hi, do you have any solutions for loose joints? I have a mg aile strike and the joints for the waist and arm would bend because of the weight when i fix the backpack and shield. TIA!
Hey! You could try taking it apart, putting some glue on the peg, wait for it to dry fully, then plug it back in. Should be tighter, but just be careful if it's too tight it could break the peg off.
What kind of sanding sticks do you recommend though brand wise?
Are use wave but it really doesn’t matter that much
@@ZakuAurelius oh I know, but I was having a tough time finding sanding sticks. Anytime I search em up, sanding paper pops up so I had to ask. Thank you for letting me know though man
Is it better to put together the kit first then disassemble to paint or paint as you build, like for example paint the parts, then put together?
I don't know about others, and I'm no expert on the matter, but I think doing a test fit of all the parts is very important before painting. There are quick modifications you can make to your kit to ensure easy disassembly as well. Assembling before painting will also show you where you'll need to weld seamlines.
I see, thanks for the info. I appreciate it.
MansuDC2 He's right. It's pretty important to do a test fit first. That way you can understand the kit better, know where problem areas will be, where paint might need special attention, seam lines, etc. And like he said, quick mods like cutting the pegs a bit is easy enough to help disassemble easier!
alright thanks.
I just wanna ask. After you used a sanding stick it will leave a mark to the piece like some scratches. Will you be able to remove that? Coz im not painting it..
Yeah you can remove that by sanding more with a lighter grit like 1200 or higher
@@ZakuAurelius oh thank you 😊❤
im an intermidiate gunpla builer, and im not used to using knives. i have an Awesome X acto knife, but scared and not really in to using it. i just cut the gate close to the part, then sand it.
Thats what I do too - I don't have good control with the knife and I cut out too much everytime I tried it. Not too willing to keep trying.
Well its worth trying. Now i just cut the gate a little close and leaving some behind, and scraping off the extra with the knife. Its really REALLY smooth
So i saw that when you were sanding, there was alot of rough spots from sanding, what grit is good to use in smoothing it all out and can i sand it down without cement or glue so it looks cleaner? thanks for your time.
You can go finer with the sanding, 1200 or 2000 grit. Then if you still want it cleaner you can use a polishing agent. But if you're painting then you really shouldn't need that.
+ZakuAurelius
i think the highest grit i have is about 2000, i dont plan on ppaiting yet, but whats a good polishing agent? also thanks for the reply
+Adam D search for Tamiya Polisher, something like that and you should be able to find some. In a tune like putty. I've never used it but it seems handy for such a task
I love Gundams and want to have more detailed builds. I am starting to use a Gundam marker but due to medical condition my hands shake all the time. Any tips for someone like me who want to make adding detail a bit easier?
Try Acrylic paint bro..,mix it with water..,does'nt have to be that much..,then just dap it on the lines with a pointed brush..,Acrylic paints can be easily removed,but the ones that went in the lines would'nt come off since they are tiny and deep,but then again you would'nt have to be too careful when putting the lines in since it's very easy to clean.
@@exerpachuau5486 thanks!
@@arrd No problem :)
How long does an amateur usually take ti build a RG gunplay
Gunpla*
Hey ZakuAurelius!
If I plan on painting the kit, should I do it before building it? I mean, pulling pieces apart seems pretty hard sometimes.
+Nicolas Beleski It can be hard sometimes, and you'll probably break a peg occasionally, but you'll get used to it. You can cut the pegs a bit to make dis-assembly easier, and a broken peg is an easy fix. It's always good to assemble first so you have a good grasp on how things go together, which surfaces show and which don't show, etc.
Yeah I was thinking agout this! Assembling it first is probably the best way to figure how everything fit together and will probably help with the sanding and painting.
I wish to thank you for your videos , they are really helpful. I got a couple of kits on my way and I was thinking just about assemblying them, but thanks to your videos (and a few others channels) I am really inclined to go the full way and make them look good :)
I have a question:
I just started collecting Gundam (My first one is a RG Wing Gundam EW) and I was wondering how often should I buy a gundam? Monthly or Bi-monthly?
That can't be answered objectively, it's all your personal and financial preference. If you seriously enjoy gunpla building, do as much as your budget and heart can take :)
Hi I have a question about how to deal with the white stuff after you sanding, I had been use the sand paper to remove nub but after that leave the white stuff and scratch that you can't remove unless you piant the kit. Can you tell me how to deal with those problems?
Just have to be very careful, especially while cutting the part from the runner. Leave plenty of nub. Then remove the nub carefully, don't try hacking it off all in one go with the knife. If you plan to paint, stress marks don't matter too much as long as there's not actually an indentation in the plastic.
What kind of sandpaper do you use on 17:45 ?
If you're not painting your gunpla, after sanding it like that, can you remove those sanding marks completely by sanding the parts again with 2000 grit sanding paper? And is 1500 sanding paper enough to remove the nub after you used the crafting knife?
Sorry for the long question, Im a noob here and I only use crafting knife to remove nubs. Wanna try it with sanding paper if its better ^^
+Green Orange 1500 grit sandpaper and a knife should work perfectly fine for nubs. That sandpaper is pretty fine so it will take a bit longer though. if you want the plastic to return to being shiny plastic after sanding (if you aren't gonna paint) then you could try a polishing abrasive, and/or topcoat.
+ZakuAurelius ahh I see. So if I use flat matt topcoat it will hide the sanding marks?
+Green Orange It should help!
+ZakuAurelius got it! Thankyou very much for replying, really appreciate it! : )
Was wondering do nubs get in the way of the build or you just shave it off for maximizing looks.
They do sometimes get in the way of the kit. Either way, they should be removed at all times!
+ZakuAurelius thanks good to know, these videos are really helpful and your response thanks again! - newbie at gunplay. 😂
bro question if i want to do staining what should i do first? top coating then staining or staining then top coat?
+dogFace RC It's up to you really. If you're worried about messing up your paint underneath then maybe topcoat first. But you should be ok either way.
+ZakuAurelius thanks man!
Hey Zak. I noticed you apply force from a distance using your sandsticks, using it as leverage, and not directly on top of the part. Also, you could see your sandstick already slightly bent. That may lead to uneven surfaces when sanding. Imagine trying to flatten something, but doing it from a distance via a 'lever.' Pretty hard right? Now those uneven surfaces may not be visible to the naked eye, but under a magnifier you'd notice it and I don't know with you, but seeing it makes me cringe and drop to my knees and cry myself to sleep (I'm a cursed sucker for nub removal perfection LOL). You might wanna try sanding with parts with your force applied directly on top. That way the said surface may get even distribution of force.
Hope this helps a little. Anyway, good job on this series. If I were new to gunpla, your tutorials are definitely my first stop for tips. Best of luck mate.
PS: You kinda look like Ryan Gosling especially with those 'nerdy' glasses. XD
That definitely makes sense! Thanks for the tip! And thanks for the support!
Which grit is best for sanding off the nubs?
600~800
what sanding tool do you use?
hi i am a painter character maker and i want to experience every type of art forms and gunpla is awesome but they are too expensive but still i will buy it but is hobby knife important and can we do with a house knife
What's the grit of the sanding stick used for the nub removal?
I use 600-800
@@ZakuAurelius Ooh thank you very much. Didn't expect a reply on an old vid much less from you of all people.
Im new to Gunpla Building. I just got my first kit and the has a Plastic Swirl. How can i remedy that?
Do you recomend painting the kit first before building?
No~ It's important to build it first so you know how everything goes together. That way you won't make any mistakes when you go to paint (missing some small areas that you didn't think would show but actually they do, etc). It also helps to find areas where you want to make any modifications or find seam lines you'll need to fix, etc!
What can I use if I don't have a hobby knife?
I saw another video of washing the parts, do you recommend this!??
You should at least wash before painting.
can i made with only brush all the paint??, and if it can, how did you do the color mix??? And wich others products i gonna need
Yeah you can certainly paint entirely by hand brushing! Some people do that. It's maybe a little more difficult to do well, but you can get great results! Usually painting with acrylics works best for that.
Ok, thanks!!, ill gonna do that :), btw this tutorial help me a lot, keep with the good work man
Okay so say I have this Cartas Graze right, when cutting the blue even after the hobby knife there are small white areas, any tips for removing those?
Drake Unkno for plastics that get stress marks (white mark) easily, try leaving a bit of a nub when you cut so u can sand it off- usually sanding prevents stress marks from showing up. Basically do what he does after 12:50.
I just bought a mg seven sword which is my first attempt at this, is it absolutely necessary to sand it after using the hobby knife I don't intend to paint it
+Ali Abbas Technically, yes you should sand every nub. Honestly, I don't always sand. Nubs that are on the inside or hidden obviously don't matter as much. They should still be removed so the pieces fit properly, but they don't need to be so perfect. On the outside, once you've got pretty good with a knife, then sometimes that can be enough and you might not need to sand. But to be sure, the more sanding the better!
Thanks man
where to buy that sanding sticks?
Hey zakuaurelius,would you please tell me,where you get/bought the tackle box?
I am trying to get one just like yours...appreciate for the info dude..
You should be able to get something like that from a dollar-store, or something of the sorts. Wal-Mart or Target possibly, if in America.
+ZakuAurelius actually i am in philadelphia,and i did try to look around from stores and ebay too,the closest box just like you its from tamiya jr 4wd pro racer box.
Any advice bro?i want it just like you.thx
Use nail sanding sticks after sanding use the buffer part of the stick an buff the part to bring the shine to the part again. it will look Prettyer
Yeah, that's right~
superrobotfan1099 Hello there, im new to this hobby and not a native english speaker. can you explain what you mean by buffer part?
nezach18 Some hand nail files for sanding nails have more than one type of sanding grid. Some times have a buffer part to use after finish is what bring shine to your nails. GL
Nice, i will try that out. i dont want to paint everything and if i can get rid of the dull parts after filing it would be awesome
superrobotfan1099 thanks
what grit is your sanding Stick?