I love watching you transform the metal into something amazing! I'm so sensitive to chemicals, I am happy you took the time to put your frustration into a video with the muriatic acid incident for our benefit, a negative situation into a positive learning tool! One slip can do major damage! Very cool, thanks. I've been trying to make some wrought iron railings cool so we'll see.
Honeslty no matter experienced someone is, there will be mistakes and at least for me as I learn and I make mistakes, I'd rather share them than hide them. I prefer helping others not make the sme mistakes.
I’ve been building a mobile home from scratch , all brand new BUT I wanted a rusty patina . The bottom 3 feet ole fence boards . And I found your channel. Now I can get the effects I’m looking for .after I install my thin gauge steel for my siding . Should look like a ole miners shack when I’m done . And I’ll do it out doors . LOL thanks
Yes, I continue to add the peroxide until I'm happy with the color. The orange rust is typically more "surface rust" over time it will go darker but by adding more peroxide you can help the process along. Typically, I'll acid wash in the morning and apply peroxide immediately after the acid. Some areas may look like their smoking which is the reaction between the two liquids. Keep spraying the peroxide throughout the day. Let it dry a bit, spray again. let it dry a bit, spray again.
PERFECT for my custom Birdhouse roofs !! Thank you !! It also make NEW Galvanized metal look aged if you scuff it and then do this for patchy looking metal roofs/small areas such as I do ! Appreciate You !
No. Since we use Corten, this steel is specifically designed to rust overtime and get stronger. That being said, nature is a beast some I'm sure it won't last for ever but it will last a very long time.
Beautiful job. Very nice video this week. Very helpful video thank you so much Doug. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Keep Making. God bless.
Just tried this method out. Wow! Works really fast! Thanks, boss. As to a faster method to rust metal, if it was the 1970's, l would have said, "Buy a Datsun." Cheers!
@terriebennett just saw your Instagram page, very cool sculptures. I'm truly hoping to turn my focus more on sculpture. I saw you did the Tucson show, was that this year? I did that one last year but couldn't make it this year.
@@ArtfullyRogue, thank you! I started following you on IG too! Yes, I did do the Tucson show this year. It was a great show! Hoping to get back next year. Love your channel and appreciate your response to my question. I look forward to seeing you create more sculpture 😊
With Corten, it will continue to rust but does reach a stopping point. You can spray a clear coat sealer to slow the rust process and keep it from running onto the deck.
I’ve been looking for a way to rust thin gauge steel on my new home it’s small and I’m trying to make look like a ole miners shack . Now I can . Bottom wainscoting will be ole fence boards . Guess I better cover my glass well .
I use an automotive clear that I buy from my local auto paint store. I don't have a specific brand as I get whats on sale and they all seem to do the job
Hi. Thank you for the video. I managed to get the result i want but now I want to clear coat it. I tested a small bit with my clear coat but found that it darkens and seems to eliminate that orangy brown rust look. is there a special clear coat for this rust?
I haven't found a clear coat that doesn't darken the rust. I have noticed that using a matte finish clear coat maintains the natural rust color better than a semi gloss or gloss clear coat.
Love this channel. I'm looking to rust out some galvanized roof panels (to give them that authentic, weathered "shanty-town"-look). Any tips on how to do that?
Sounds cool. You'll first need to remove the galvanization before they will rust. I find that using a flap wheel and an angle grinder work best for that
I've started using a two part automotive clear that I use a paint sprayer to apply. It's a bit thicker than the off the shelf spray can of clear coat. Check with your local automotive paint supplier. I use a brand called Medallion
Great video! But could you please tell me what concentrate of muriatic acid to water? I assume you're not spraying full strength? And same with the hydrogen peroxide - full strength or cut?
thnx for your video man! Gotta rust a 4mm thick iron table top next week so im preparing things. I noticed 2 different kind of peroxide here, they sell 3%and 35-50% concentration. Does it matter ?
@@ArtfullyRogue 35% peroxide is all manner of disasters in a bottle, its enthusiasm to assist acids in oxidizing metal frequently gives me close calls, heat shock cracks in glassware, oxide sprayed on walls, and occasionally outright explosions of multiple mixed hot corrosive poison gasses. 50% peroxide is beginning to strain the laws of thermodynamics... As a note since this is about peroxide and metals, platinum, silver, and manganese will break it down instantly which is a serious shockwave of steam over 30%.
35% H₂O₂ definitely can do some rusting though, yesterday I disintegrated a high-chrome stainless steel fork then boiled it down to several fistfulls of crumbly, chunky, sometimes glassy artificial mineral. Unmixing an alloy is kinda zen now that I think about it 🤔
@@ArtfullyRogue for subtle to moderate detailing on iron based material, 3% will do it. 35% allows for less usual patinas and more resistant metals, like "searing" effects on stainless steel, thick darkened passivization layers on aluminium, black and red copper oxides, &c. Whether special applications like that are worth handling the stuff is a serious consideration-I've been burned by concentrated peroxide more times than muriatic, nitric, sulfuric and oxalic acids; sodium, potassium, magnesium, and transition metal hydroxides and carbonates; and chlorine, nitrogen monoxide/dioxide, sulfur dioxide/trioxide gases. All combined. 😅
We've started using a two part automotive clear coat on the water features. The spray on that I used in this video did ok for about a year before it needed reapplication
I accidentally found out about the power of muriatic acid to rust things when I was a kid. We had a little metal shed in the back yard with the usual shed stuff in it (shovels, rakes, lawn mower, etc.) plus a shelf with some of my dad's tools and a bunch of fishing stuff (hooks, lures, leader wire). There was also a gallon jug of muriatic acid in there that was about half full. Somehow the bottle got a hole in it (it might have been me but really, I think it was my little brother). the hole was above the contents so it didn't leak out but a week or so of that shed in the hot Florida sun did the trick. The fumes rusted the heck out of everything that was steel based, including the shed. The humidity probably helped too.
As an added safety, I’ll often have a 5 gallon bucket of fresh water and a large box of baking soda. These also are nice for a more even spaying. The green tops are for chemicals. Chapin International 1046 48-Ounce Janitorial/Sanitation Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser Sprayer
hey michael, so you'll mix big box of baking soda into a five gallon bucket of freshwater and once done with the acid and peroxide, wait a couple hours, then wash it off with said mixture to get it more uniform?
The baking soda is to neutralize acid splash and spills. As is the water. Goggles and gloves when working with acid. Always add acid TO the water. If splashing occurs, it’s diluted to/with water.
I just tried the vinegar in place of the acid then sprayed the peroxide....and nothing. I got zero rust and even if it creates rust over time, its still not as fast as using the acid. Is there anything specific you are doing to get a quick result?
@@ArtfullyRogue I also found out how to rust metal faster just using peroxide only. That’s it and it’s cheaper and safer,like you said in the beginning of the video,it’s about that Sanding and prep. Love the water fall idea.
Cool video and great advice for rusting! Apologies if this is covered in another video, but do you seal the rust with something to stop further rusting before installing? I’ve been hesitant to install a welded fountain for fear of it clogging the pump, but I realize now that might have been a bad assumption.
Thanks. 3 percent hydrogen peroxide - very important; 20 percent and it burns and burns. Rob would have been in a shower crying for hours. What percent did use with the hydrochloric acid? The swimming pool stuff is usually pretty fast on its own and great for stripping zinc off, as you know Doug. Gas mask, outdoors and all other safety procedures apply, everyone.
Seems i a year to late to hit the alarm bell, what ever you do don't mix muriatic acid with hydrogen peroxide indoors, then with the wrong type of muratic acid you get chlorine gas, a safer way to get quick rust is to heat the metall with a burner, make it warm not hot and then spray some hydrogen peroxide on the metal, let it do its thing, then just use water and when the metal is wet just use the burner and the oxidation will kick in quick with natural rust
I've actually tried the method you mention. Unfortunately for what I'm doing its not consistent and doesn't add the character and color the acid/peroxide does
@@ArtfullyRogue no...strictly muriatic. Though I did figure it out. Had to take the weed burner and warm up the metal. Soon as it was good and hot I hit it with the hydrogen peroxide and bam..... instant rust. Since you live in a warmer climate it wasn't an issue for you. I needed to open up the pours of the metal with some heat. Thanks for the reply though
You are correct. Galvanized metal is specifically dipped to prevent rusting. It's necessary to remove the galvanization and get down tot he bare metal for this process to work
@ArtfullyRogue i have a fountain flashed in galvanized steel 26 Guage. I took a wire wheel to it, I've sprayed it 4 times now in the sun and it only took the shine off. I can't find any information on how to remove this coating other than dipping it in acid. This is a fountain 6 feet by 3 feet. Dipping is not an option
@ArtfullyRogue I have with muratic acid from my pool supplies. 4 times actually and in the full las vegas sun the last 2 times. I found a company that makes a coating so I think that's what I'm going to do at this point. Removing that galvanized finish is tough.
Tried this method on a new galvanizeed corrugated roof panel. The reaction only turned the panel gray with some black spots. No rusty patina.. Did I miss something??
@@ArtfullyRogue Understood. I used the Muriatic acid 1st followed by the peroxide. Basically just dulled the surface and turned it gray ands black. No orange rust patina!
@@bsebldudeSame here. I don't get it. I am doing everything the same way all the other people on TH-cam are with corrugated metal. Did you ever figure it out?
@@ArtfullyRogueI doubt this highly. 3% will slightly improve oxidation on a metal piece in a container of acid, 30-35% will blast steam and oxidation product sludge across the walls if not careful and just a few drops of ice cold 35% spilled in mud will make it smoulder.
Very cool Sir thanks for posting!
And thank you for watching Roy, its greatly appreciated
I love watching you transform the metal into something amazing! I'm so sensitive to chemicals, I am happy you took the time to put your frustration into a video with the muriatic acid incident for our benefit, a negative situation into a positive learning tool! One slip can do major damage! Very cool, thanks. I've been trying to make some wrought iron railings cool so we'll see.
Honeslty no matter experienced someone is, there will be mistakes and at least for me as I learn and I make mistakes, I'd rather share them than hide them. I prefer helping others not make the sme mistakes.
I’ve been building a mobile home from scratch , all brand new BUT I wanted a rusty patina . The bottom 3 feet ole fence boards . And I found your channel. Now I can get the effects I’m looking for .after I install my thin gauge steel for my siding . Should look like a ole miners shack when I’m done . And I’ll do it out doors . LOL thanks
Sounds like a cool project
If you don’t get the color you want do you keep applying more peroxide? My customer wants the brown look but I have the orange rust color.
Yes, I continue to add the peroxide until I'm happy with the color. The orange rust is typically more "surface rust" over time it will go darker but by adding more peroxide you can help the process along. Typically, I'll acid wash in the morning and apply peroxide immediately after the acid. Some areas may look like their smoking which is the reaction between the two liquids. Keep spraying the peroxide throughout the day. Let it dry a bit, spray again. let it dry a bit, spray again.
PERFECT for my custom Birdhouse roofs !! Thank you !! It also make NEW Galvanized metal look aged if you scuff it and then do this for patchy looking metal roofs/small areas such as I do ! Appreciate You !
@johnn8414 thanks for your comment and support
Will it just keep eating through the metal over time? And get holes in it.. etc?
No. Since we use Corten, this steel is specifically designed to rust overtime and get stronger. That being said, nature is a beast some I'm sure it won't last for ever but it will last a very long time.
also good malt vinegar is good
Yes also a good option for rust
Beautiful job. Very nice video this week. Very helpful video thank you so much Doug. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Keep Making. God bless.
Thanks Jared, you too!
Nice
Can you seal it with a clear top coat?
Thank you
@wayneturner2173 yes. We now use a two part automotive clear coat to seal ours
Just tried this method out. Wow! Works really fast! Thanks, boss. As to a faster method to rust metal, if it was the 1970's, l would have said, "Buy a Datsun." Cheers!
Nice tutorial Doug 🛠️👍😊
Thanks 👍
Will this work on sandblasted corten steel as well?
@@terriebennett yes I don't see why not. I rust Corten using this method without sand blasting
@@ArtfullyRogue Thank you so much! They are large panels so had to blast the mill scale off. 🤪
@terriebennett just saw your Instagram page, very cool sculptures. I'm truly hoping to turn my focus more on sculpture. I saw you did the Tucson show, was that this year? I did that one last year but couldn't make it this year.
@@ArtfullyRogue, thank you! I started following you on IG too! Yes, I did do the Tucson show this year. It was a great show! Hoping to get back next year. Love your channel and appreciate your response to my question. I look forward to seeing you create more sculpture 😊
What is the concentration on the acid?
I use it straight out of the bottle. I get from from Home Depot in the swimming pool supplies section.
nice video. Does the rust continue to happen and run off to stain a deck?
With Corten, it will continue to rust but does reach a stopping point. You can spray a clear coat sealer to slow the rust process and keep it from running onto the deck.
NIce video. Muratic acid will cut thru galvanized however
Ah, you left me hanging. "Muratic acid will cut thru galvanized however...." What? However, what? ; ) Thanks for watching
You mentioned running acid washing off the rust, does rinsing with water do that too?
I actually just rinse with water but I pour slowly over the rust as opposed to using a hose with any pressure
@@ArtfullyRogue Thank you for taking the time to respond. Huge help. I have clients pushing for this exact type of finish. Cheers.
I’ve been looking for a way to rust thin gauge steel on my new home it’s small and I’m trying to make look like a ole miners shack . Now I can . Bottom wainscoting will be ole fence boards . Guess I better cover my glass well .
Sounds very cool
Did you have any luck, Ken? I am struggling.
Great Video Doug, your RIGHT Robin looking good spraying the Water Feature!! Ha , Ha ""
Thanks 👍 Barry haha
any recommendations on protective finish on that?
I use an automotive clear that I buy from my local auto paint store. I don't have a specific brand as I get whats on sale and they all seem to do the job
Would u be to use ferric chloride as the acid?
I'm not sure
Great Video, Subbed !
is muriatic acid = hydrochloric acid ?
Yes it is.
Hi. Thank you for the video. I managed to get the result i want but now I want to clear coat it. I tested a small bit with my clear coat but found that it darkens and seems to eliminate that orangy brown rust look. is there a special clear coat for this rust?
I haven't found a clear coat that doesn't darken the rust. I have noticed that using a matte finish clear coat maintains the natural rust color better than a semi gloss or gloss clear coat.
Love this channel. I'm looking to rust out some galvanized roof panels (to give them that authentic, weathered "shanty-town"-look). Any tips on how to do that?
Sounds cool. You'll first need to remove the galvanization before they will rust. I find that using a flap wheel and an angle grinder work best for that
What do you use to seal rust? Everything clearcoat I’ve used absorbs into the rust and darkens any cool color created. Very frustrating!
I've started using a two part automotive clear that I use a paint sprayer to apply. It's a bit thicker than the off the shelf spray can of clear coat. Check with your local automotive paint supplier. I use a brand called Medallion
Great video! But could you please tell me what concentrate of muriatic acid to water? I assume you're not spraying full strength? And same with the hydrogen peroxide - full strength or cut?
Peroxide is 3% and the acid, I believe is full strength. I buy it from Home depot. Its the same that goes into swimming pools
Can I do this over the factory mill scale?
Unfortunately no. You'd have to remove the mill scale first
thnx for your video man! Gotta rust a 4mm thick iron table top next week so im preparing things. I noticed 2 different kind of peroxide here, they sell 3%and 35-50% concentration. Does it matter ?
Not sure it matters, I've always just used the 3% as it was readily available
@@ArtfullyRogue 35% peroxide is all manner of disasters in a bottle, its enthusiasm to assist acids in oxidizing metal frequently gives me close calls, heat shock cracks in glassware, oxide sprayed on walls, and occasionally outright explosions of multiple mixed hot corrosive poison gasses. 50% peroxide is beginning to strain the laws of thermodynamics... As a note since this is about peroxide and metals, platinum, silver, and manganese will break it down instantly which is a serious shockwave of steam over 30%.
35% H₂O₂ definitely can do some rusting though, yesterday I disintegrated a high-chrome stainless steel fork then boiled it down to several fistfulls of crumbly, chunky, sometimes glassy artificial mineral. Unmixing an alloy is kinda zen now that I think about it 🤔
@@cyborgninjamonkey good thing I only use the 3% peroxide then
@@ArtfullyRogue for subtle to moderate detailing on iron based material, 3% will do it. 35% allows for less usual patinas and more resistant metals, like "searing" effects on stainless steel, thick darkened passivization layers on aluminium, black and red copper oxides, &c. Whether special applications like that are worth handling the stuff is a serious consideration-I've been burned by concentrated peroxide more times than muriatic, nitric, sulfuric and oxalic acids; sodium, potassium, magnesium, and transition metal hydroxides and carbonates; and chlorine, nitrogen monoxide/dioxide, sulfur dioxide/trioxide gases. All combined. 😅
First class, thank you, wish I could show you what I made.
@davidmiller079 send it to my email address. I always like to see other creations
Brush it on. It’s the way to keep the acid vapor to a minimum. Thank you for a great video!
Thanks for watching, it's greatly appreciated
So how did it hold up over time ?
My patina on my truck , a hard rainstorm washed it back to bare metal.
We've started using a two part automotive clear coat on the water features. The spray on that I used in this video did ok for about a year before it needed reapplication
I accidentally found out about the power of muriatic acid to rust things when I was a kid. We had a little metal shed in the back yard with the usual shed stuff in it (shovels, rakes, lawn mower, etc.) plus a shelf with some of my dad's tools and a bunch of fishing stuff (hooks, lures, leader wire). There was also a gallon jug of muriatic acid in there that was about half full. Somehow the bottle got a hole in it (it might have been me but really, I think it was my little brother). the hole was above the contents so it didn't leak out but a week or so of that shed in the hot Florida sun did the trick. The fumes rusted the heck out of everything that was steel based, including the shed. The humidity probably helped too.
Oh yeah, humidity and acid, you got the double whammy
You will go to jail now 🤣
@@arvindazad
Statute of limitations. I plead the 5th. I wasn't there, I've got an alibi.
As an added safety, I’ll often have a 5 gallon bucket of fresh water and a large box of baking soda. These also are nice for a more even spaying. The green tops are for chemicals.
Chapin International 1046 48-Ounce Janitorial/Sanitation Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser Sprayer
cool thanks Michael
hey michael, so you'll mix big box of baking soda into a five gallon bucket of freshwater and once done with the acid and peroxide, wait a couple hours, then wash it off with said mixture to get it more uniform?
The baking soda is to neutralize acid splash and spills. As is the water. Goggles and gloves when working with acid. Always add acid TO the water. If splashing occurs, it’s diluted to/with water.
@@michaelwho very much appreciated 👍
Vinegar in place of acid is almost as fast ( just seconds). But safer and cheaper
I'll have to check that out for sure
I just tried the vinegar in place of the acid then sprayed the peroxide....and nothing. I got zero rust and even if it creates rust over time, its still not as fast as using the acid. Is there anything specific you are doing to get a quick result?
@@ArtfullyRogue dissolve a couple tsp of salt in the peroxide
@@ArtfullyRogue finally someone who actually checks something out when they say they will and reports back on it. Good man
@@ArtfullyRogue I also found out how to rust metal faster just using peroxide only. That’s it and it’s cheaper and safer,like you said in the beginning of the video,it’s about that Sanding and prep. Love the water fall idea.
Why not use an air sprayer for firtilizer my gosh it be easy .
I use that now and yes it is very easy
Cool video and great advice for rusting! Apologies if this is covered in another video, but do you seal the rust with something to stop further rusting before installing? I’ve been hesitant to install a welded fountain for fear of it clogging the pump, but I realize now that might have been a bad assumption.
Sorry for long delay I totally missed your comment. I typically use a two part spray on automotive clear coat
I love the look of corten steel when it gets that brilliant orange. Is there anyway to arrest the rusting process, and preserve that color?
Clear coat, the sleeper auto crowd use it.
Spray with water to stop the corrosion process and keep it at the color you want.
Spray a clear coat over the rust. I use either a small spray can of spray or I'll mix batch for an air sprayer.
Man I bought a bunch of 8' sheets on currugated metal. I cannot get ANY rust. But I did not do any cleaning first because I have 157 pieces to do.
Spray with muriatic acid and leave it. The acid will eat the galvanization off where you spray and expose the raw steel which will then rust
Thanks. 3 percent hydrogen peroxide - very important; 20 percent and it burns and burns. Rob would have been in a shower crying for hours. What percent did use with the hydrochloric acid? The swimming pool stuff is usually pretty fast on its own and great for stripping zinc off, as you know Doug. Gas mask, outdoors and all other safety procedures apply, everyone.
Yep we just use the pool acid. And yep we'll use it to rust our zinc covered screws as well
I will never have use for this, but very interesting nonetheless. Good tips and narration though.
Seems i a year to late to hit the alarm bell, what ever you do don't mix muriatic acid with hydrogen peroxide indoors, then with the wrong type of muratic acid you get chlorine gas, a safer way to get quick rust is to heat the metall with a burner, make it warm not hot and then spray some hydrogen peroxide on the metal, let it do its thing, then just use water and when the metal is wet just use the burner and the oxidation will kick in quick with natural rust
I've actually tried the method you mention. Unfortunately for what I'm doing its not consistent and doesn't add the character and color the acid/peroxide does
What percentage of hydrogen peroxide are you using... I'm using 3% and not getting any reaction
I also use 3%. And you're using pool acid ?
@@ArtfullyRogue no...strictly muriatic. Though I did figure it out. Had to take the weed burner and warm up the metal. Soon as it was good and hot I hit it with the hydrogen peroxide and bam..... instant rust. Since you live in a warmer climate it wasn't an issue for you. I needed to open up the pours of the metal with some heat. Thanks for the reply though
@@510BIGDI had not heard of this idea. You weren't using corrugated metal by chance, were ya?
Definitely does not work on galvanized
You are correct. Galvanized metal is specifically dipped to prevent rusting. It's necessary to remove the galvanization and get down tot he bare metal for this process to work
@ArtfullyRogue i have a fountain flashed in galvanized steel 26 Guage. I took a wire wheel to it, I've sprayed it 4 times now in the sun and it only took the shine off. I can't find any information on how to remove this coating other than dipping it in acid. This is a fountain 6 feet by 3 feet. Dipping is not an option
@@mrbriankeith111 have you tried spraying it with acid? Pool acid in a sprayer is a possibility
@ArtfullyRogue I have with muratic acid from my pool supplies. 4 times actually and in the full las vegas sun the last 2 times. I found a company that makes a coating so I think that's what I'm going to do at this point. Removing that galvanized finish is tough.
I’m doing it on galvanized it’s just takes awhile.
Did he dilute the acid ?
No I used it straight from the bottle
It's unfortunate that he wasn't wearing "assid" protection. It was like watching The Plumbing Channel.
Haha thats funny, I totally missed that. I had to go back and see what you were making reference to
Tried this method on a new galvanizeed corrugated roof panel. The reaction only turned the panel gray with some black spots. No rusty patina.. Did I miss something??
The galvanized coating prevents rusting. The galvanizing has to be removed
@@ArtfullyRogue Understood. I used the Muriatic acid 1st followed by the peroxide. Basically just dulled the surface and turned it gray ands black. No orange rust patina!
@@bsebldudeSame here. I don't get it. I am doing everything the same way all the other people on TH-cam are with corrugated metal. Did you ever figure it out?
@@designsinorbit Have you figured it out?
@@brrrtdnope.
Please wear gloves if you are spraying Muriatic acid and google precaution tips.
Something I need to remind myself to do. When I'm outside the breeze usually gives you a sense that all is good until it changes direction on you.
USE 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
@ras8514 I have and it doesn't produce much difference than the 3% and cost a bit more
@@ArtfullyRogueI doubt this highly. 3% will slightly improve oxidation on a metal piece in a container of acid, 30-35% will blast steam and oxidation product sludge across the walls if not careful and just a few drops of ice cold 35% spilled in mud will make it smoulder.