On the stock bolt, don't remove it from the butt stock when you remove the stock. . stand the stock up butt up untill ready to reinstall the stock. clean the pin recesses .
Im going to remember you on this tutorial. That was easy enough said and Thank You for taking time to show us. I have a 725 Browing 20 bore. And its new.
Excellent! I do this annually on my two 40 year old Citoris. I did replace the stock flathead screw with a torx screw purchased from Midwest Gun Works. My Citori receivers are glass-bedded so removing the stock is a bit more challenging. The firing pin channel is typically clogged with gunk that can be blown out with a can of compressed air.
@@paulwhittaker7018 There is only one long screw that attaches the stock to the receiver thu the hole under the recoil pad. Simply replace that screw with a torx screw which you can order from Midwest Gun.
Great job- thanks for the excellent vid. While cleaning and lubricating the pins, inspect the small ends of the firing pins for pitting; I've replaced one or two from that. Also, spray a bit of CLP or similar down the pin bores, followed with a small Q-tip to ensure the pin bores are clean.
The FP retaining pins have to be inserted/removed in a specific direction. Each pin has splines which may be damaged if removed incorrectly. 2:38 - OVER barrel (L side of action) FP retaining pin is inserted L to R, and removed R to L. This has been done INCORRECTLY in the video. The splined end of this pin has now been forced through the entire length of the channel it sits in. 3:33 - "Both being driven out from the same side" is incorrect. 3:37 - UNDER barrel (R side of action) FP retaining pin is inserted R to L, and removed L to R. This one has been done correctly in the video.
@@twiki1963 Hail Canada…I’m a hunter from San Luis Obispo ca. Also, having issues replacing my mainsprings. I got one one but can’t seem to line up the other to go in.
Great question, I honestly don’t know the answer but here’s a guess. The lower firing pin spring keeps the pin rearward to the unfired position. Perhaps if the pin was left forward and engaged with the shell after the shot it would cause issues with the pin when the action was opened. I could envision it dragging across the primer of the shell as you opened the gun perhaps causing jamming issues or damaging the pin over many rounds. I spent a few minutes googling and couldn’t find an answer. Love to hear from anyone that actually knows, sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
Mine has pits, not chips. It’s caused by the FP piercing the primer and the ignition arc burning into it. I’ve polished out the pits (while maintaining a round profile) and it’s worked for me.
@@twiki1963 You are right, I meant pits and that's exactly what I have on mine as well (but only on the lower one). My friend has the exact same gun and the exact same pits. I think it has been exaggerated on forums online, but when enough primers has been pierced and all those gasses and burned grime has escaped backwards in to the firing pin housing, causing it to move poorly or not move at all eventually and causing the gun to not fire. I have ordered new pins but I will try to just polish out the pitting and give the housing a good cleaning and see how that works. If it's not successful I will install the new ones.
@@Thestripper1 I shoot the O barrel probably 80% of the time and the U barrel is for Handicaps or Doubles. I replaced the lower FP once just based on the pitting (but had no issues with it.) I even kept the old FP and polished out the pitting. Same with the one installed in the gun right now.
@@twiki1963 Hi. Thanks, this is interesting, but I didn't understand if the pin you are using now is a new one, or if it's one that has been pitted and then polished?
@@Thestripper1 it’s a new one, but that too got pitted within a few hundred rounds. One of the more experienced shooters suggested polishing out the pitting, and I also did that to the ‘original’ FP (which I’d kept around) so that’s a ‘used spare’ now, I guess. I use a 400 grit, then 1000 grit silicon carbide waterstone. I shot mostly Challenger, but have switched to Federal (though still got lots of Challenger remaining). When shooting from the lower barrel, I try to make it a habit to check if the primer has been pierced (easy for me, since my 725 only extracts).
Yep. I disappointed to pay $3000 for a gun that comes in a carboard box and requires that type of maintenance every 5k rounds. And it's not even specified anywhere in website or manual that you have to clean firing pins. Imagine if failure happen during registered shooting competition
Seriously? All guns require some cleaning and maintenance. This is really all this gun needs besides a bit of lube. This is 15 minutes every 75 rounds of skeet or so. This gun has never failed me.
@@bobl997that seems a little frequent. The 725 Trap is my competition gun and it will quite easily go 500 rounds (two flats) before needing some lubrication. That said, I always apply fresh grease at the pivot points (after cleaning out the old grease).
@@twiki1963 Exactly the same here, but skeet not trap. Cracks me up seeing the elitists with K80s and Ceasers while score just as good with the 725. They all have had to send their expensive status symbols overseas or cross country etc for service. I also have 725 in 20ga.
@@andyandy7968JUST BOUGHT USED ONE WITH 5 TO 7 K THROUGH IT FOR $1200.00 NEEDED SOME CLEANING, FIRING PINS LOOK FINE, BUT I AM GOING TO CLEAN THEM, VERY NICE WOOD WITH ADJUSTABLE CHEEK REST AND A $600.00 RECOIL REDUCER THAT CAME WITH IT.🤷♂️
On the stock bolt, don't remove it from the butt stock when you remove the stock. . stand the stock up butt up untill ready to reinstall the stock. clean the pin recesses .
Very good video! Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Im going to remember you on this tutorial. That was easy enough said and Thank You for taking time to show us. I have a 725 Browing 20 bore. And its new.
I also have it in the 20 bore. Beautiful gun.
Great video, very helpful! Thanks
You should do a review on your gun bag and how to pack it efficiently. I’d watch that! Great content N Dewhurst
Some clean in pin holes are required ;) Nice vid!
Nice video,You should replace the main springs too
Excellent! I do this annually on my two 40 year old Citoris. I did replace the stock flathead screw with a torx screw purchased from Midwest Gun Works. My Citori receivers are glass-bedded so removing the stock is a bit more challenging. The firing pin channel is typically clogged with gunk that can be blown out with a can of compressed air.
I’d like to replace my screws as well. What screws did you use? Do you have a part number?
@@paulwhittaker7018 There is only one long screw that attaches the stock to the receiver thu the hole under the recoil pad. Simply replace that screw with a torx screw which you can order from Midwest Gun.
Great video - thanks!
Nice job on the Video
Great job- thanks for the excellent vid. While cleaning and lubricating the pins, inspect the small ends of the firing pins for pitting; I've replaced one or two from that. Also, spray a bit of CLP or similar down the pin bores, followed with a small Q-tip to ensure the pin bores are clean.
I've had success with polishing down the FP tip (only needed for the U barrel) to reduce pierced primers with 100% ignition (always goes bang).
The FP retaining pins have to be inserted/removed in a specific direction.
Each pin has splines which may be damaged if removed incorrectly.
2:38 - OVER barrel (L side of action) FP retaining pin is inserted L to R, and removed R to L.
This has been done INCORRECTLY in the video. The splined end of this pin has now been forced through the entire length of the channel it sits in.
3:33 - "Both being driven out from the same side" is incorrect.
3:37 - UNDER barrel (R side of action) FP retaining pin is inserted R to L, and removed L to R.
This one has been done correctly in the video.
Buddy, I don’t know who you are but THANK YOU, THANK YOU, YOU. Just finished pin replacement and your comments were right on the money
Cheers @@jdemartini9807 I'm just a Trapshooter in his 60's in Canada, trying to help other 725 owners. 🙂
@@twiki1963 Hail Canada…I’m a hunter from San Luis Obispo ca. Also, having issues replacing my mainsprings. I got one one but can’t seem to line up the other to go in.
Could you do the main springs too please
Thanks for an excellent video. Do you need to clean out the cylinders that the pins reside in?
I have not needed to do that. The build up seems to mostly occur around the shoulders on the pins.
Why don't you show how to clean the firing pin holes? Nice helpful video.
A pipe cleaner for the hole.
A Q-Tip for the FP channel.
What size flat head did you use for the main screw?
👍👏💪
Nice video! Can I use a bronze brush to clean the firing pin?
Yes with some clp that could work but the brass might be a little soft. The scotch bright pads I used in the video make it very easy.
I have no holes in my pad. Is there another way to access these screws?
Never mind I found the little slits
Where did you get that needle oil applicator????
I got it from Amazon.
Break Free CLP Cleaner a.co/d/6HtV5Y6
Why is there only a spring on the bottom firing pin?
Great question, I honestly don’t know the answer but here’s a guess. The lower firing pin spring keeps the pin rearward to the unfired position. Perhaps if the pin was left forward and engaged with the shell after the shot it would cause issues with the pin when the action was opened. I could envision it dragging across the primer of the shell as you opened the gun perhaps causing jamming issues or damaging the pin over many rounds. I spent a few minutes googling and couldn’t find an answer. Love to hear from anyone that actually knows, sorry I couldn’t be more helpful.
The bottom pin is at an angle, the spring pushes it up out of the way for aforementioned reasons.
I have heard the 525 has issues with the bottom firing pin on the 16ga? Looking at buying one that is brand new ,but close to 20 years old!
2:15 the lower pin is chipped, always and for ever like this. How can it be this way? It should be possible to make the pins last.
Mine has pits, not chips. It’s caused by the FP piercing the primer and the ignition arc burning into it.
I’ve polished out the pits (while maintaining a round profile) and it’s worked for me.
@@twiki1963 You are right, I meant pits and that's exactly what I have on mine as well (but only on the lower one). My friend has the exact same gun and the exact same pits. I think it has been exaggerated on forums online, but when enough primers has been pierced and all those gasses and burned grime has escaped backwards in to the firing pin housing, causing it to move poorly or not move at all eventually and causing the gun to not fire. I have ordered new pins but I will try to just polish out the pitting and give the housing a good cleaning and see how that works. If it's not successful I will install the new ones.
@@Thestripper1 I shoot the O barrel probably 80% of the time and the U barrel is for Handicaps or Doubles.
I replaced the lower FP once just based on the pitting (but had no issues with it.) I even kept the old FP and polished out the pitting. Same with the one installed in the gun right now.
@@twiki1963 Hi. Thanks, this is interesting, but I didn't understand if the pin you are using now is a new one, or if it's one that has been pitted and then polished?
@@Thestripper1 it’s a new one, but that too got pitted within a few hundred rounds. One of the more experienced shooters suggested polishing out the pitting, and I also did that to the ‘original’ FP (which I’d kept around) so that’s a ‘used spare’ now, I guess.
I use a 400 grit, then 1000 grit silicon carbide waterstone.
I shot mostly Challenger, but have switched to Federal (though still got lots of Challenger remaining). When shooting from the lower barrel, I try to make it a habit to check if the primer has been pierced (easy for me, since my 725 only extracts).
Need to do this every 5000 to 10000 rounds. That's why I shoot Beretta
Yep. I disappointed to pay $3000 for a gun that comes in a carboard box and requires that type of maintenance every 5k rounds. And it's not even specified anywhere in website or manual that you have to clean firing pins. Imagine if failure happen during registered shooting competition
Seriously? All guns require some cleaning and maintenance. This is really all this gun needs besides a bit of lube. This is 15 minutes every 75 rounds of skeet or so. This gun has never failed me.
@@bobl997that seems a little frequent.
The 725 Trap is my competition gun and it will quite easily go 500 rounds (two flats) before needing some lubrication.
That said, I always apply fresh grease at the pivot points (after cleaning out the old grease).
@@twiki1963 Exactly the same here, but skeet not trap. Cracks me up seeing the elitists with K80s and Ceasers while score just as good with the 725. They all have had to send their expensive status symbols overseas or cross country etc for service. I also have 725 in 20ga.
@@andyandy7968JUST BOUGHT USED ONE WITH 5 TO 7 K THROUGH IT FOR $1200.00 NEEDED SOME CLEANING, FIRING PINS LOOK FINE, BUT I AM GOING TO CLEAN THEM, VERY NICE WOOD WITH ADJUSTABLE CHEEK REST AND A $600.00 RECOIL REDUCER THAT CAME WITH IT.🤷♂️